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, 



NARRATIVE 



VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC 

AND BEERING'S STRAIT, 



TO CO-OPERATE WITH 



THE POLAR EXPEDITIONS 



PERFORMED IN 



HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP BLOSSOM, 



UNDER THE COMMAND OP 

CAPTAIN F. W. BEECHEY, R. N, 



P.R.S. cf-c. 
IN THE YEARS 1825, 26, 27, 28. 



PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OP THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS 
OP THE ADMIRALTY. 



PHILADELPHIA: 

CAREY & LEA-CHESNUT STREET. 
1832. 



JO 



AMHERST: 
PRINTED BY J. S. & C. ADAMS. 






CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 1. 

Departure from England — Teneriffe — Sun eclipsed — Fernanda Norhona — Make 
the Coast of Brazil — Rio Janeiro — Passage round Cape Horn — Conception — Valpa- 
raiso ......... Page 13 

CHAPTER II. 

Leave the Coast of Chili — Visit Sala-y-Gomez — Easter Island — Hostile Reception 
there — Description of the Inhabitants, Island, &c. — Enter the dangerous Archipela- 
go — Davis' Island — Elizabeth or Henderson's Island, its singular Formation — See 
Pitcairn Island ... ..... 33 



CHAPTER III. 

Pitcairn Island — Adams and natives come off to the Ship — Adams' Account of the 
Mutiny of the Bounty — Lieutenant Bligh sent adrift in the Launch — Mutineers pro- 
ceed to Tobouai — Hostile Reception there — Proceed to Otaheite — Return to Tobouai 
— Again quit it, and return to Otaheite — Christian determines to proceed to Pitcairn^ 
Island — Lands there — Fate of the ship — Insurrection among the blacks — Mutineers 
— Adams dangerously wounded — Fate of the remaining Mutineers . 52 

CHAPTER IV. 

Bounty Bay — Observatory landed — Manners, Customs, Occupations, Amusements 
&c. of the Natives — Village — Description of the Island — Its produce — Marriage of 
Adams — Barge hoisted out — Departure — General Description . .70 

CHAPTER V. 

Visit Oeno Island — Description of it — Loss of a Boat and one Seamen — Narrow 
escape of the Crew — Crescent Island — Gambier Groupe — Visited by Natives on 
Rafts — Discover a Passage into the Lagoon — Ship enters — Interview with the Na- 
tives — Anchor off two Streams of Water — Visited by the Natives — Theft — Commu- 
nication with them suspended — Morai — Manner of preserving the Dead — Idols and 
Places of Worship . . . . . . ' . .95 

CHAPTER VI. 

Second interview with the Natives — Visit to the principal Village-Bodies exposed 
to dry — Areghe or Chief — Lieutenant Wainwright attacked by Natives — Advantage 
of the Port — Further Description of the Island, its Soil and productions . 114 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Quit Gambier Islands — Visit Lord Hood's Island — Water-Spout — Clermont Ton- 
nere — Description of the Island and Natives, Canoe, &c. — Serle Island — Whitsun- 
day Island — Lagoon Island — Thrum Cap Island — Egmont Island — Discover Bar- 
row Island ; Description of it — Carysfort Island — Discover Cockburn Island — Osna- 
burgh Island — Find the Wreck of the Matilda — Bligh's Lagoon Island — Discovery 
of Byam Martin Island — Meet a Party of Chain Islanders there — Mystery attached 
to their History — Take two of them on board the Ship — Gloucester Island — See Bow 
Island. 131 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Boat sent to examine the Channel into Bow Island — Lagoon — Unexpected Inter- 
view between Suwarri and his Brother. — A Pearl Brig at anchor in the Lagoon — 
Mystery attached to the Byam Martin Islanders dispelled — Their interesting History, 
extensive Wanderings and sufferings — Sequel of Tuwarri's History — Ship enters the 
Lagoon — Description of the Island — A short Account of the Natives — Visit several 
other coral Islands, and discover Melville and Croker Islands — Remarks on the Dis- 
coveries of Cook, Wallis, Carteret, &c. — Peculiarities of the coral Islands — Arrival 
at Otaheite . . . . . . . 149 



CHAPTER IX. 

Proceedings at Otaheite — The Ship visited by the Queen Regent, the Royal Fam- 
ily, and several Chiefs — Short Account of the Chiefs since Captain Cook's Visit — 
Successful Issue of a Dispute with the Government respecting the Detention of a 
trading Vessel — Visit to the Queen Regent's House — Present Condition of the Chiefs 
and of the Inhabitants — Superstitions — Trial of Natives for Theft of the Ship's Store 
— The King visits the Ship — Lake and Morai of Mirapaye — Dance exhibited by a 
Party of New Zealanders — Considerations on the Effect of Christianity . 175 

CHAPTER X. 

Departure from Otaheite — Arrival at Woahoo, Sandwich Islands — Contrast between 
the two Countries — Visit the King and Pitt — Departure — Oneehow — Passage to 
Petropaulski — Beering's Island — St. Lawrence Island — Esquimaux — King's Island 
— Diomede Islands — Pass Beering's Strait — Arrive in Kotzebue Sound — Anchor off 
Chamisso Island — Ice Formation in Escholtz Bay . . . 199 

CPAPTER XI. 

Quit Kotzebue Sound, and proceed to survey the, coast to the Northward — Inter- 
views with the natives — Cape Thomson — Point Hope — Current — Capes sabine and 
Beaufort — Barrier of Ice — ley Cape — Advanced Position of the ship — Discover Cape 
Franklin, Wainwright Inlet, Shoals off Icy Cape, &c. — Boat sent on an Expedition 
along the Coast — Return of the Ship to Kotzebue Sound — Interviews with the Esqui- 
maux — Boat rejoins the Ship — Important Results of her Expedition . 224 

CHAPTER XII. 

Interesting Narrative of the Boat Expedition — Point Barrow — Near Approach to 
Captain Franklin — Beset by the Ice — Perilous Situotion and fortunate Release of 
the Barge — Terrific Gale — Rejoin the Ship — Further Examination of Kotzebue 
Sound — Discover Buckland River — Mammoth Bones — Ice Formation — Approach of 



CONTENTS V 

Winter obliges the Ship to quit the Sound — Repass Beering's Strait — Gale — Pro- 
ceed to the Southward — PuturePlans — Make St. Paul's Island — Aleutian Islands — 
Pass throgh Oonemak Channel — Arrive off San Francisco in California . 260 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Arrive at San Francisco — Description of the Harbour, Presidio, and the missions 
— Occupations — Dissatisfied State of the Garrison and the Priesthood — Contempla- 
ted Plan of settling the Indians in the Missions — Occupations of the converted Indi- 
ans — Manner of making Converts — Expediton against the Tribe of Cosemens — 
Official Desptach — Overland Journey to Monterey — Scarcity of Provisions at that 
place — Plan of the Voyage altered in consequence — Departure . . 292 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Observations on the Country of California and its Trade — Climate — Meteorolog- 
ical Remarks — Short Account of the Wild Indians — Natural Productions — Monte- 
rey — Mission of San Carlos — Departure ..... 331 

CHAPTER XV. 

Passage to the Sandwich Islands — Woahoo — Historical Sketch of the Islands — 
Progress in Civilization — Sandal Wood — Resources of the Government — Slow 
Progres of Education — Efforts of the Missionaries — Unsuccessful Result of their 
Zeal — Sentiments of the King and Chiefs — Entertainment given by the King — 
Death of Krymakoo — Wailing Scene — Departure of Kahumana for Owyhee 345 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Further Remarks on the Inhabitants — Treaty of Alliance — Climate — Medicinal 
Properties of the Ava — Supplies — Departure — Passage to China — Ladrone and Bash- 
ee Islands — Arrival at Macao — Transactions there — Departure — Botel Tobago Xima 
— Arrival at the Great Loo Choo ...... 360 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Appearance of Loo Choo — Visits of the Natives — Deputation — Permission given 
to land — Excursions into the Country — Discover Money in circulation — Mandarin 
visits the ship — Departure of a Junk with Tribute — Visit of the Mandarin returned 
— Further Intercourse — Transactions of the Ship — Departure — Observations upon 
the Religion, Manners, and Customs of the People ; upon their Laws, Money, Weap- 
ons, and Punishments ; their Manufactures and Trade — Remarks upon the Country 
its Productions, and Climate — Directions for entering the Port — Historical Sketch 
of the Kingdom of Loo Choo ...... 376 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Passage from Loo Choo eastward — Arrive at Port Lloyd in the Yslas del Arzo- 
bispo — Description of those Islands — Passage to Kamschatka — Arrival at Petro- 
paulski Notice of that Place — Departure — Pas3 Beering's Strait — Enter Kotzebue 
Sound — Prosecute the Voyage to the Northward — Stopped by the Ice — Return to 
the Southward — Discover Port Clarence and Grantley Harbour — Description of 
these Harbours — Return to Kotzebue Sound — Ship strikes upon a Shoal . 430 



VI CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Arrive at Chamisso Island — Find the Barge Wrecked — Lieutenant Belcher's 
Proceedings — Conduct of the Natives — Approach of Winter — Final Departure from 
the Polar Sea — Observations upon the Probability of the North- West Passage from 
the Pacific — Remarks upon the Tribe inhabiting the North- West-Coast of America 
— Return to California — Touch at San Bias, Valparaiso, Coquimbo, Rio Janeiro — 
Cunclusion ......... 458 



Note. 

In presenting to the public a new edition of this interesting and 
popular work, the Publishers feel bound in duty to observe, that 
some of Captain Beechey's remarks upon the moral condition of 
the Society and Sandwich Islands, especially upon the nature and 
effects of the missionary exertions, have been shown to be very de- 
fective and unjust. For a more correct account in these particu- 
lars, the reader is referred to the " Journal of Voyages and Trav- 
els by Tyerman and Bennett,'" and " Stewart's Voyages to the 
South Seas." 



TO THE KING. 



In availing myself of Your Majesty's gracious permis- 
sion to dedicate this work to your Majesty, I feel that I 
am performing a most pleasing duty. 

The claims of Your Majesty's family on the gratitude 
of the nation, for the efficient patronage they have afford- 
ed to maritime discovery, require merely to be alluded 
to, to ensure the attention of every well-wisher to his 
country. 

Under a less powerful Sovereign than your Royal 
Father, the voyages of Cook and Vancouver, in all prob- 
ability, would never have been projected, and could 
hardly have prospered ; while it is certain that the ex- 
peditions of rarry and Franklin owed their chief distinc- 
tion to the enlightened encouragement of His late Majesty. 

But these great enterprises — -so productive of national 
renown — so extensively useful in diffusing the blessings of 
civilization over distant and savage lands — and so emi- 
nently beneficial to the cause of science and of commerce, 
could never have been successfully accomplished, had not 

vol. i. 1 



DEDICATION. 



the character of the Navy been habitually maintained at, 
perhaps, the highest level which human exertion is capa- 
ble of reachino-. 



■&■ 



To produce this generous spirit, however, and to pre- 
serve it entire when once created, there was required, on 
the part of the Royal Family, some signal example of 
personal sacrifice to the popular service of the country. 
And although it would be very presumptuous in any one 
to pretend to estimate the advantages which the profes- 
sion has derived, in our own days, from Your Majesty 
having condescended to become one of its working mem- 
bers, there can be no doubt, that in all future times, the 
British Navy will retain the salutary impression, and cher- 
ish the remembrance of this high honour. 

May it please Your Majesty, 
Your Majesty's 

most dutiful servant, 
most grateful 
and most faithful subject, 

FREDERICK WILLIAM BEECHEY. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The discovery of a north-west passage to the Pacific had for some 
years occupied the attention of the British government and of the 
public at large, and several brilliant attempts had been made both by 
sea and by land to ascertain the practicability of its navigation, which, 
though conducted with a zeal and perseverance that will transmit 
them to the latest posterity, had, from insurmountable difficulties, fail- 
ed of success. 

In 1824. His late Majesty having commanded that another attempt 
should be made by way of Prince Regent's Inlet, an expedition was 
equipped — the last that sailed upon this interesting service — and the 
command again conferred upon Captain Parry, whose exploits have so 
deservedly earned him the approbation of his country. At the same 
time Captain Franklin, undaunted by his former perilous expedition, 
and by the magnitude of the contemplated undertaking, having with 
the promptness and perseverance peculiar to his character, proposed to 
connect his brilliant discoveries at the mouth of the Coppermine River 
with the furthest known point on the western side of America, by descend- 
ing the Mackenzie River, and, with the assistance of his intrepid asso- 
ciate. Dr. Richardson, by coasting the northern shore in opposite direc- 
tions towards the two previously discovered points, His late Majesty 
was also pleased to command that this expedition should be simulta- 
neously undertaken. 

From the nature of these services it was nearly impossible that either 
of these expeditions could arrive at the open sea in Beering's Strait, 
without having nearly, if not wholly, exhausted their resources ; and 
Captain Franklin's party being, in addition, destitute of a conveyance 
to a place whence it could return to Europe. To obviate these antici- 



IV INTRODUCTION. 

pated difficulties, his Majesty's government determined upon sending a 
ship to Beering's Strait to await the arrival of the two expeditions. 

As this vessel would traverse, in her route, a portion of the globe 
hitherto little explored, and as a considerable period must necessarily 
elapse before her presence would be required in the north, it was inten- 
ded to employ her in surveying and exploring such parts of the Pacific 
as were within her reach, and were of the most consequence to naviga- 
tion. 

The vessel selected for this service was his Majesty's ship Blossom, 
of twenty-six guns, but on this occasion mounting only sixteen ; and on 
the 12th of January, 1825, I had the honour of being appointed to the 
command of her. The following officers, most of them men distin- 
guished for their abilities, were placed under my orders, viz. — 



Lieutenant, 

Ditto, 

Lieutenant, 
Master, 
Surgeon, . 
Purser, 

Admiralty 
Mates, 

Midshipman 



George Peard. 
Edw. Belcher, Su- 
pernumerary and 
Assistant Surveyor. 
John Wainwright, 
Thomas Elson- 
Alex. Collie. 
George Marsh. 
J. F. Gould,* 
William Smyth, 
James Wolfe. 
John Kendall, 
Richard B. Beechy. 



Naturalist, . . George T. Lay. 
Assistant Surgeon, Thomas Neilson. 
( John Evans, 



Clerks, 

Volunt. 1st Class 

Ditto, 2d Class, 

Gunner, 

Boatswain, 

Carpenter, 



( Chas. H. Osmer. 
{ John Crawley. 
I John Hockley. 
( J. C. Barlow. 
( Charles Lewis. 

John Richardson. 

James Clarkson. 

Thos. Garrett. 



To these were added such a number of seamen, marines, and boys, as, 
with the exception of the supernumeraries, would form a complement 
of a hundred and ten persons ; but in consequence of the weakness of 
our crew when collected, I was permitted to discharge ten of the most 
inefficient ; a reduction which, without sensibly diminishing the 
strength of our crew, materially increased the duration of our stock of 
provisions, and in the sequel proved of the most happy consequence. 

The ship was partially strengthened, and otherwise adapted to the 
service, by increasing her stowage. A boat was supplied, to be used as 
a tender, and for this purpose she was made as large as the space on 
the deck would allow. She was rigged as a schooner, decked, and fit- 
ted in the most complete manner, and reflected great credit upon Mr. 
Peake, the master-shipwright of Woolwich dock-yard, who moddelled 
and built her. 



*This valuable young officer was obliged to quit the ship at Rio Janerio on ac- 
count of his health. 



INTRODUCTION. y 

To the usual allowance of provision was added a variety of anti- 
scorbutics. Cloth, beads, cutlery, and other articles of traffic, were put 
on board ; and two fowling-pieces, embossed with silver, and fitted in 
the most complete manner, were supplied as presents to the kings of 
the Society and Sandwich Islands. The College of Surgeons sent bot- 
tles of spirits for the preservation of specimens, and the Horticultural 
Society enhanced our extra stores with a box of seeds properly pre- 
pared for keeping. 

The seaman were furnished with two suits of clothes gratis, and were 
allowed the further privilege of having six months' wages in advance. 

In the equipment of all the expeditions of this nature it has been the 
good fortune of the officers engaged in them to meet with the utmost 
courtesy and attention to their wishes from the departments which 
have the power so materially to contribute to their comfort ; and I take 
this opportunity of expressing my sincere thanks to Sir G. Cockburn 
and the other Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, to Sir Thomas 
Byam Martin, and the Commissioners of the Navy and Victualling 
Boards, for the readiness with which they at all times complied with 
my requests. 

Being in every respect ready, on the 19th May I received the follow- 
ing instructions from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty : — 

" By the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Ad- 
miral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland &c. 

" Whereas it is our intention that his majesty's sloop Blossom, under 
your command, should be at Beering's Strait in the Autumn of 1826, 
and, contingently, in that of 1827, for the purpose of affording such as- 
sistance as may be required, either by Captain Parry or Captain Frank- 
lin, should one or both of those officers make their appearance in that 
neighbourhood. You are hereby required and directed to put to sea in 
the said sloop, so soon as in every respect ready, and observe the fol- 
lowing instrutcions for your guidance : — 

" You are to proceed with all convenient expedition to Rio Janeiro, 
where you are to complete your provisions and water ; after which you 
are to make the best of your way round Cape Horn, and endeavour to 
make Easter Island ; from whence you are to take your departure, 
steering for the Society Islands, and passing near the spot where Gomez 
Island appears in the charts, in order to ascertain whether such island 
has any existence ; and, in like manner, whether Ducie's and Elizabeth 
Islands be not one and the same. You will then proceed to Pitcairn's 
Island at the south-eastern extremity of the groupe of the Society Isl- 
ands, or, as they are sometimes called, the Georgian Islands, where you 
will commence a survey of this groupe, proceeding north-westerly to 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

Otaheite. In the execution of this survey it may be found most advisable 
to anchor, if practicable, every evening, under one of the islands, in order 
that the situation of the ship may, by these means, be more secure, and 
that you may be certain that none of them are passed by you unobsen ri 
ed. If, however, you should experience any difficulty in pursuing the 
route herein pointed out from the prevailing winds, you will make the 
best of youi way to Otaheite, and proceed from thence in your survey 
to Pitcairn's Island. 

" During your stay among these or any other of the islands of the 
Pacific which you may visit, you are to use every possible endeavour to 
preserve an amicable intercourse with the natives, and to caution your 
officers and ship's company to avoid giving offence or engaging in dis- 
putes with them ; and you are to show them on all occasions every act 
of kindness that may be in your power, taking care that when any pur- 
chases, by barter or otherwise^ are made, an officer of the ship may al- 
ways be present to prevent disputes : and you are particularly to im- 
press on the minds of your officers and men the necessity of being ex- 
tremely guarded in their intercourse with the females of those places, 
so as to avoid exciting the jealousy of the men. 

" Having completed the survey of this groupe of islands, if you find 
that your time will admit of it, you are to direct your course to the 
Navigator's Islands, settling in your way thither the true position of 
Suwarrow's Islands ; from whence, in your progress to the northward, you 
will touch at Owhyhee, to deliver the despatches and packages address- 
ed by the Foreign Office for his Majesty's consul at that island, and to 
procure refreshments and water. 

" You are however, to be particularly careful not to prolong your 
stay at any of those islands, so as to retard your arrival at the appoint- 
ed rendezvous in Beering's Strait later than the 10th July, 1826; 
which period, together with the rendezvous, has been fixed by Captain 
Franklin and yourself, by a memorandum, a copy of which is annexed, 
and we desire and direct you to pay particular attention to the the va- 
rious matters contained therein. 

" You are to remain at the said appointed rendezvous until the end 
of October; or to as late a period as the season will admit, without in- 
curring the risk of being obliged to winter there, provided you shall 
hear nothing of Captain Franklin or his party ; but in the event of his 
joining, you are to receive him and his party on board, and convey him 
either to Kamtschatka, the Sandwich Islands, Panama, or to China, as 
he may determine, in order to procure a further conveyance to England. 
If, however, you should receive certain intelligence of Captain Parry 
having passed through Beering's Strait into the Pacific, you are in that 
case to proceed with the Blossom round Cape Horn, and bring Captain 
Franklin and his party to England ; touching at Callao, and such other 
ports on the western coast of South America as you may deem proper 
for refreshments, intelligence, &c, 

" In the former event, namely, of your leaving Beering's Strait with 
Captain Franklin, but without having obtained any intelligence of Cap- 
tain Parry, you are to complete your water and provisions at the place- 



INTRODUCTION. VII 

to which you convey Captain Franklin ; or in the event of your hearing 
nothing either of Captains Franklin or Parry, previous to the season 
obliging you to leave Beering's Strait in 1826, you are to proceed to 
such place as you may deem most eligible and convenient for complet- 
ing your provisions and water ; taking care in either of the last men- 
tioned cases to be again in Beering's Strait by the 1st August, 1827, 
calling in your way thither again at Owhyhee, at which place Captain 
Parry has been directed to give the preference of touching in his way 
homeward, for the purpose of affording you intelligence of him. 

" If you should find that Captain Parry has passed, or should he pass 
after joining you, and that you have heard nothing of Captain Franklin, 
you are, nevertheless, to proceed to, or remain at (as the case may be) 
Beering's Strait, in the autumn of 1827, as already directed, following 
in all respects the directions already given for your conduct in the au- 
tumn of 1826. 

" In order that you may be put in full possession of that part of our 
instructions to Captain Parry which relates to his arrival in Beering's 
Strait, we enclose you herewith an extract from them, as also a copy 
of a ' Memorandum,' drawn up by Captain Parry, and dated ' Hecla, 
Davis' Strait, June, 1824 ;' to both of which we desire to call your par- 
ticular attention, in order that you may govern your proceedings accor- 
dingly. 

" Having remained in Beering's Strait as late in the autumn of 1827 
as the season will admit, and without risking the chance of being oblig- 
ed to Avinter on account of the ice, you are to proceed to England by 
the route before directed ; reporting to our secretary your arrival, and 
transmitting the journals of yourself and officers for our information. 

" In the prosecution of your voyage out, and during your stay in the 
Pacific, you are to be particular in noticing the differences of longi- 
tude given by your chronometers, from any one place to another, which 
you may visit in succession. 

" As we have appointed Mr. Tradescant Lay as naturalist on the 
voyage," and some of your officers are acquainted with certain branches 
of natural history, it is expected that your visits to the numerous 
islands of the Pacific will afford the means of collecting rare and curi- 
ous specimens in the several departments of this branch of science. 

You are to cause it to be understood that two specimens, at least, of 
each article are to be reserved for the public museums ; after which the 
naturalist and officers will be at liberty to collect for themselves. You 
will pay every attention in your power to the preservation of the va- 
rious specimens of natural history, and on your arrival in England trans- 
mit them to this office ; and if, on your arrival at any place in the 
course of your voyage, you should meet with a safe conveyance to 
England, you are to avail yourself of it to send home any despatches 
you may have, accompanied by journals, charts, drawings, &e., and 
such specimens of natural history as may have been collected. And you 
will, on each of your visits to Owhyhee, deliver to his Majesty's consul 
at that place duplicates of all your previous collections and documents, 
to be transmitted by him, by the first safe opportunity, to England. 



V-lll INTRODUCTION. 

"In the event of England becoming involved in hostilities with any 
other power during your absence, you are, nevertheless, clearly to under- 
stand that you are not on any account to commit any hostile act whatso- 
ever ; the vessel you command being sent out only for the purpose of 
discovery and science, and it being the practice of all civilized nations 
to consider vessels so employed as excluded from the operations of war: 
and, confiding in this general feeling, we should trust that you would 
receive every assistance from the ships or subjects of any foreign power 
which you may fall in with. 

" On your return home you will proceed to Spithead, informing our 
secretary of your arrival. 

" Given under our hands, the 11th of May, 1825. 

" MELVILLE. 
WM. JOHNSTONE HOPE. 
G. COCKBURN. 
G. CLERK. 
W. R. K. DOUGLAS. 

< « To Frederick William Beechy, Esq. 
Commander of his Majesty's Sloop Blossom, at Spithead. 

" By Command of their lordships. 

"J. W. CROCKER." 



INTRODUCTION. IX 



MEMORANDUM ACCOMPANYING THE INSTRUCTIONS. 

" We deem it advisable that the ship should be in Beering's Strait by 
the 10th of July, and that she should remain at some appointed rendez- 
vous until the end of October, or to as late a period as the season will 
admit, without incurring the risk of being obliged to winter there. 

" At present we know of but one place on the eastern shore of the 
strait which we can recommend as a rendezvous for both parties, viz. 
Kotzebue's Sound ; there it appears the ship may remain with all winds. 
Desirable as it is to take up a more notherly position than this, in order 
that the voyage of Captain Franklin's party in open boats may be 
shortened ; yet, admitting the possibility of deep inlets on the coast, it 
is evident that the boats of Captain Franklin would have more difficul- 
ty in searching for the ship in them than in proceeding at once to the 
above-mentioned sound ; and the certainty of finding the ship at a fixed 
point would be more satisfactory to Captain Franklin. 

" In order, however, to lessen as far as possible the difficulties of the 
land party (still preserving the fixed rendezvous), it is recommended 
that a party, well armed, and having a supply of provisions and fuel, 
shall be left at Chamisso Island with a boat ; or, if it be necessary, the 
defences of the island may be stengthened by the two forecastle guns, 
which, with a strong boat's crew, will be sufficient to protect the only 
landing-place in the island against any force the natives can bring, 
should they be hostile.* 

" Leaving this party at the rendezvous, the Blossom may proceed to 
examine the coast, assisted by her decked launch, keeping in-shore of 
her ; and signals can then be regularly placed on every conspicuous 
cape or height, according to the mode agreed upon, for the purpose of 
directing Captain Franklin's attention to bottles containing written in- 
formation, which will be buried at each station. 

" In this manner it is proposed, circumstances permitting, to navigate 
from Kotzebue's Sound northward, and then eastward as far as the state of 
the ice will allow, following up every opening, and never quitting the 
main shore. The distance to which the ship can proceed to the east- 
ward will be limited by the lateness of the season, and the necessity of 
avoiding the hazard of being beset in the ice and obliged to winter. 

" Fog-signals and night-lights will of course be established between 
the launch and the ship ; and should the launch part company with the 
ship, it will proceed to the last formed signal station, and there await 
the junction of the ship ; but if she does not arrive there in five days, 
the launch is to prosecute the voyage along shore, in search of Captain 
Franklin, but not to go so far as to put the certainty of returning to 
Chamisso Island by the 30th of September at any risk, by which date 

♦This erroneous idea was suggested by Captain Kotzebue's account of the island} 
arising no doubt from a bad translation. 
VOL. I. 2 



X INTRODUCTION 

the ship will also have arrived there ; and Captain Franklin will proceed 
to the same place should he not have met either the ship or launch be- 
fore. 

" During the time the Blossom remains in Kotzebue Sound, a party 
will be directed to proceed inland on a north course, if practicable, in 
order that should the coast of the Polar Sea be within reasonable dis- 
tance, signals may be erected upon the heights for Captain Franklin, 
whose party may by this means be spared a long journey round the 
N. W. promontory of America. At this and every other station where 
information is deposited of Captain Beechey, it is advisable that a re- 
quest in the Russian language be also placed, that this information be 
not taken away, or the signals disturbed. 

" Since the transmission of the above, Captain Franklin has received 
his instructions from Earl Bathurst, the contents of which have been 
made known to Captain Beechey, and the only addition which we think 
necessary to make is, that in the event of Captain Franklin arriving at 
an early period at Icy Cape, or at the N. W. extremity of America, or 
in the longitude of Icy Cape (161° 42' W.) and returning the same 
season to his former winter quarters, he will, in the above-mentioned 
meridian, erect, a signal, and bury a bottle containing the information 
of his having done so for Captain Beechey's guidance. 

(Signed) " JOHN FRANKLIN, Captain. 

F. W. BEECHEY, Commander, His 
Majesty's Sloop Blossom. 

Woolwich, 10th February, 1825." 



After the receipt of these instructions, I took an early opportunity 
of communicating to the officers under my command the sentiments 
of their lordships, contained in the twelfth paragraph. How satisfacto- 
rily these expectations were fulfilled, must appear from the manner in 
which their lordships have marked their approbation of their conduct. 
As commander of the expedition, however, I am happy of an opportuni- 
ty of again bearing testimony to their diligence, and of expressing my 
thanks for the assistance I derived during the voyage from their exer- 
tions. They are especially due to my first lieutenant, Mr. Peard, upon 
whom much additional duty devolved, in consequence of my attention be- 
ing in some measure devoted to olher objects of the expedition: to Lieuten- 
ant Belcher and Mr. Elson, the master, for their indefatigable attention 
to the minor branches of surveying; and to the former, again, for his 
assistance in geological researches: to Lieutenant Wainwright for his 
astronomical observations; to Mr. Collie for his unremitting attention to 
natural history, meteorology, and geology ; to Mr. James Wolfe, for his 
attendance at the observatory and the construction of charts; and, lastly, 
to Messrs. Smyth and Richard Beechey, for the devotion of their leis- 
ure time to drawing. 

On the return of the expedition to England, the journals and papers 
of the officers were placed in my hands by the Admiralty, with direc- 
tions to publish an account of the voyage. I found those of Messrs. 
Collie and Belcher to contain much useful information on the above- 



INTRODUCTION. XI 

mentioned branches of science, and in other respects I have derived 
much assistance from their remarks, and also from those in the journals 
of Messrs. Evans, Smyth, and Beechey . I have in general noticed these 
obligations in the course of my narrative: but as this could not always 
be done without inconvenience to the reader, I take this opportunity 
of more fully expressing my acknowledgements. 

In the compilation I have endeavoured to combine information use- 
ful to the philosopher with remarks that I trust may prove advan- 
tageous to the seaman, and to convey to the general reader the impres- 
sions produced upon my mind at the moment of each occurrence. Row 
far I have succeeded in acquitting myself of the task my duty compelled 
me to undertake, I must leave to the public to decide, and shall conclude 
with expressing a hope that my very early entry into the service 
may be taken in extenuation of any faults they may discover. 

The collections of botanical and other specimens of natural history 
have been reserved for separate volumes, being far too numerous to form 
part of an Appendix to the present narrative. His Majesty's govern- 
ment having liberally appropriated a sum of money to their publication, 
I hope, with the assistance of several eminent gentlemen, who have 
kindly and generously offered to describe them, shortly to be able to 
present them to the public, illustrated by engravings by the first artists. 
The botany, of which the first number has already been published, is 
in the hands of Dr. Hooker, professor, of Botany, at Glasgow, who in 
addition to having devoted the whole of his time to our collection, has 
borne with the numerous difficulties and disappointments which have 
attended the progress of the publication of this branch of natural his- 
tory, and my thanks on this account are the more especially due to 
him in particular. The department which he has so kindly undertaken 
will extend to ten numbers 4to. ; making, in the whole, about 500 pages, 
and 100 plates of plants, wholly new, or such as have been hitherto 
imperfectly described. 

The other branches of natural history are under the care of Messrs. 
N. A. Vigors, Edward Bennett, J. E. Gray, Richard Owen, Dr. Rich- 
ardson, R. N., and Mr. T. Lay, the naturalist to the expedition; and the 
geology of Professor Buckland and Captain Belcher,, R. N. ; to all of 
whom I must express my warmest thanks, for their cordial assistance, 
and for the ready and handsome manner in which they have taken upon 
themselves the task of describing" and of superintending the delineation 
of the various specimens. Their contributions will form another 4to. 
volume of species entirely new, or, as before, of such as have been im- 
perfectly described. The public in general are not aware how much 
is due to these gentlemen, without whose zeal and aid they would be 
deprived of much useful knowledge : for, notwithstanding the liberal as- 
sistance of his Majesty's government, there is so little encouragement 
for works of the above mentioned description, that they could not be 
published unless the contributions were gratuitously offered to the pub- 
lishers. 



VOYAGE 



TO THE 



PACIFIC AND BEERING'S STRAIT 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure from England — Teneriffe — Sun eclipsed — Fernanda Norhona — Make 
the Coast of Brazil — Rio Janeiro — Passage round Cape Horn — Conception — 
Valparaiso. 

On the 19th of May 1825, we weighed from Spithead, and the 
following afternoon took our parting view of the Devonshire coast, 
and steered out of the Channel with a fair wind. For several days 
afterwards out progress was impeded by boisterous weather, for 
which the approach to the Bay of Biscay has long been proverbial. 
We however escaped tolerably well, and favorable breezes soon suc- 
ceeding, we advanced to the southward. 

On the 30th we ascertained, by running over the spot in a fine 
clear day, that a reef of rocks, named the Eight Stones, did not ex- 
ist in the situation which it has for a number of years occupied in 
our charts : the next morning we passed the Desertas, and on the 
1st of June were off Teneriffe. 

As I purposed touching at Santa Cruz, we immediately hauled up 
for the land, and it was a fortunate circumstance that we did so, for 
so strong a current set to the southward during the-night, that had 
we trusted to our reckoning, the port would have been passed, and 
there would have been much difficulty in regaining it. I mention 
the circumstance with a view of bringing into notice the great 
southerly set that usually attends the passage of ships from Cape 
Finisterre southward. From this cape to Point Naga, our error in 
that direction, or more correctly S. 33° W., was not less than ninety 
miles. I do not stop to inquire into the cause of this great tendency 
of the water to the equator, which might probably be traced to the 



14 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [June, 

remote effect of the trade-wind, but merely mention the fact as a 
guide to persons who may pursue the same route. 

We approached the island on a fine sunny day, but from a quar- 
ter that was highly unfavorable for a view of the lofty Peak, which 
was almost hid from us by intervening mountains. At four o'clock 
we came to an anchor in the roads of Santa Cruz, and there found 
His Majesty's ship Wellesley, Captain, now Admiral Sir G. E. 
Hamond, Bart., on her way to Rio Janeiro, with his Excellency 
Sir Charles Stuart, the British Ambassador to the court of Brazil. 
As soon as we had exchanged salutes with the fort, we landed to 
procure the supplies the ship required, with all despatch ; and met 
with much assistance and civility from Mr. Dupland, who was acting 
in the absence of the Consul. 

Santa Cruz, at the time of our arrival, "was under the govern- 
ment of Don Ysidore Uriarti, who very obligingly allowed me to 
pitch a tent in one of the forts for the purpose of making observations, 
and placed a guard of soldiers to keep watch over the instruments. 
In Santa Cruz there is very little to interest a stranger : when he 
has paraded some inferior gardens which perpetuate the memory of 
Marquis de Brancifort, cast his eye round the interior of the great 
church of San Francisco, where a flag that once belonged to Lord 
Nelson will not be allowed to escape his attention, and scanned a 
monument erected to the Virgin Mary de la Candelaria, the patron- 
ess-saint of the island, he has seen all that can offer an inducement 
to expose himself to a dusty walk on a hot day, which he will be 
sure to find in the month of June in this scattered town. The Plaza 
Reale will amuse those persons who wish to indulge their criticism 
on the manner and costume of the inhabitants, who assemble there 
in the evening to smoke their cigars, and enjoy the luxurious fresh- 
ness of the air. 

At Laguna the capital, visiters will find a better town, a more 
fertile country, a climate several degrees cooler than that of Santa 
Cruz, and every species of produce more abundant and forward 
than at the port ; and though the road is bad, few will regret hav- 
ing encountered its difficulties. The celebrated Peak of Teyde is 
the great object of curiosity which engages the attention of travel- 
lers to the Canary groupe, and we experienced much mortification 
at not having it in our power to ascend it. To have added our 
mite toward the determination of its altitude by barometrical 
measurement, was a consideration not overlooked ; but, circum- 
stanced as we - were, it was not of sufficient importance to justi- 
fy the detention of the ship ; and we were obliged to console our- 
selves with the hope that we should shortly visit places less known, 
and where our time, consequently, would be more usefully employed. 

Teneriffe is an island which lies in the track of all outward- 



1825.] and beering's strait. 15 

bound ships from Europe, and most voyagers have touched at it : 
being the -first object of interest they meet, their zeal is naturally 
more excited there, than at any subsequent period of their voyage : 
it is consequently better described than almost any other island in 
the Atlantic, and nothing is now left for a casual visiter, but to go 
over the ground of his predecessors for his own gratification or im- 
provement. My observations for the determination of the latitude 
and longitude of the place, &c. were made in the Saluting Battery, 
but they are omitted here, as I propose, throughout these volumes, 
to avoid, as far as possible, the insertion of figures and calculations, 
which, by the majority of readers, are considered interruptions to 
the narrative, and are interesting only to a few. On the 3rd, His 
Majesty's ship Wallesley sailed for Rio Janeiro with His Excellen- 
cy Sir Charles Stuart ; and on the 5th, having procured what supplies 
we required, we weighed, and shaped our course for the same place. 
From our anchorage we had been daily tantalized with a glimpse 
only of the very summit of the Peak, peeping over a nearer range 
of mountains, and the hazy state of the weather on the day of our 
departure made us fearful we should pass on without beholding any 
more of it ; but towards sunset, when we had reached some miles 
from the coast, we were most agreeably disappointed by a fair view 
of this gigantic cone. The sun set behind it ; and as his beams 
withdrew, the mountain was thrown forward, until it appeared not 
half its real distance. Then followed a succession of tints, from 
the glowing colours of a tropical sky, to the sombre purple of the 
deepest valleys ; varying in intensity with every intermediate 
range, until a landscape was produced, which for beauty of outline, 
and brilliancy of colour, is rarely surpassed ; and we acknowledged 
ourselves amply repaid for our days of suspense. Night soon closed 
upon the view ; and directing our compass to a well-known head- 
land, we took our last look at the island, which was the only one 
of the Canary groupe we had seen : not on account of our dis- 
tance from them, but owing to that mass of clouds which " naviga- 
tors behold incessantly piled over this Archipelago." The breeze 
was fair, and we rolled on, from day to clay, with our awnings 
spread ; passing rapidly over the ground with a fresh trade-wind, 
and daily increasing the heat and humidity of our atmosphere ; 
amused occasionally by day, with shoals of flying-fish starting from 
our path, followed by their rapacious pursuers ; and by night, with 
the phosphoric flashing of the sea, and the gradual rising of con- 
stellations not visible in our native country. 

Toward the termination of the trade, the wind veered gradually 
to the eastward, and became fresh until noon of the 15th, when it 
suddenly ceased, and the sea, foaming like breakers, beneath a 
black thunder-cloud, warned us to take in our lighter sails. We 



16 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [June, 

were presently taken aback with a violent gust of wind from the 
southward, and from that time lost the north-east trade. As we 
approached its limit, the atmosphere gradually became more charged 
with humidity, and the sky thickened with dark clouds, which, lat- 
terly, moved heavily in all directions, pouring down torrents of rain. 
On the 16th, the sun was eclipsed ; and we made many obser- 
vations to determine the moment of conjunction. In doing this, 
my attention., was arrested by a very unusual appearance. It con- 
sisted of a luminous haze about the moon, as if the light had been 
transmitted through an intervening atmosphere. I made a sketch 
of it very soon afterwards, of which I was very glad, as a similar 
phenomenon, I found, had been observed by M. Dolland in another 
eclipse ; and as the subject has since received much interest from 
the circumstance of Aldebaran, and Jupiter and his satellites, hav- 
ing been seen projected upon the disc of the moon. About the 
time of the greatest obscuration, Leslie's photometer stood at 27°, 
exactly half what it afterwards showed. Between the intervals of 
observation, we amused ourselves with making experiments with a 
burning glass upon differently coloured cloths, in imitation of those 
recorded in the Memoirs of the Astronomical Society, and which 
will convey to the general reader a more intelligible idea of the 
decrease of intensity in the sun's rays at the time of the greatest 
obscuration, than the observations with the photometer, as well as 
of the readiness with which some colours ignite in comparison with 
others : for instance, 

Black Blue Scarlet, Pea-Green 

burned instantly ; required 3s, 7, 15s, 7: would not ignite. 
■• 

After the eclipse, and when the sun was shining bright, 

K. 

Black Blue Scarlet, Pea-Green, Yellow, 

burned instantly ; instantly ; 2s ; 7s, 8 ; 4s, 3. 

The results are the mean of several cjteervations ; and the intervals, 
the number of seconds between the rays being brought to a focus 
on the cloth, and its ignition. 

After losing the trade-wind, we went through the usual ordeal of 
baffling winds and calms, with oppressively hot moist weather, and 
heavy rains ; and then, on the 19th, in latitude 5° 30' N., got the 
south-east trade, with which we pursued our course towards the 
equator, and crossed it on the 24th, in longitude 30° 2' West, much 
further from the meridian of Greenwich than choice would have 
dictated. Some anxiety was in consequence felt lest the current, 
which here ran to the westward at the rate of thirty miles a day, 
should sweep the ship so far to the leeward, as to prevent her 



1825.] and eeering's strait. 17 

weathering Cape St. Roque, the north-eastern promontory of the 
Brazilian coast, which would materially protract the passage, by 
making it necessary to return to the variable winds about the equa- 
tor in order to regain the easting, as it is almost impossible to make 
way against the rapid current which sets past Cape St. Roque. 

During the forenoon of the 26th, we observed an unusual num- 
ber of birds. To our companions, the tropic bird, shearwaters, and 
Mother Carey's chickens, were added gannets and boatswains : 
they were conjectured to be the forerunners of land ; and, at three 
o'clock, the island of Fernanda Norhona was seen from the deck, 
bearing south-west, twelve leagues. When we had neared this 
island within six leagues, there was an irregular sea ; but we had 
no soundings at 351 fathom's depth. Our observations reduced to 
the Peak, placed it eighteen miles to the eastward of its position 
in the East India Directory. Some squally weather, which occa- 
sionally broke the ship off her. course, increased our anxiety ; but 
we kept clean full, to pass as quickly as possible the current, which 
here runs with great rapidity. 

On the 29th we had the satisfaction to find ourselves to the 
southward of the promontory, and that it would not be necessary 
to make a tack. The wind, however, led us in with the coast of 
Brazil, which was seen on the morning of the 8th. The same eve- 
ning we passed the shoal off Cape St. Thomas — a clanger which 
until very lately was erroneously placed upon the charts, and not 
sufficiently marked to warn ships of the peril of approaching it.* 
Thence, our course was for Cape Frio, a headland which all ves- 
sels bound to Rio Janeiro should, on several accounts, endeavour 
to make. In fine weather the south-east winds blow home to the 
cape, and gradually fall into either the land or sea breeze, according 
to the time of day, though the prevailing wind off it is from the 
north-east : with either of these winds, a ship can proceed to her 
port. The southerly monsoon, which, while it blows, materially 
facilitates the navigation along the coast to the northward, scarcely 
affects the wind close in with the cape. The greatest interruptions 
to which they are liable are from the pamperos, which in the win- 
ter blow with great violence from the River Plate, sweep past Rio 
Janeiro, extend to the before-mentioned cape, and often beyond it, 
to a considerable offing. It was during the influence of one of 
these gales that we approached Cape Frio, and had no sooner 
opened the land on the western side of the promontory, than we 
were met by a long rolling swell from the south-west, gusts of wind, 

* A merchant-vessel on her way from Rio Janeiro to Bahia, when about ten miles 
from the land, struck upon this shoal, and beat over it, fortunately with the loss of 
her rudder only. She afterwards stood for five hours along the shoal, to the east- 
ward, and her master stated that the sea broke upon, it out of sight of land. 
VOL. I. 3 



18 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [<^'%j 

and unsettled weather ; and at noon encountered a violent squall 
attended by thunder and lightning, which obliged us to take in 
every sail on the instant. Towards sunset the weather cleared up, 
and we saw Cape Frio, N. W. by W., very distant. 

Calms and baffling winds succeeded this boisterous weather, so 
that on the morning of the 11th we were still distant from our 
port ; and the daylight was gone, and with it the sea-breeze, before 
we could reach a place to drop our anchor. It, however, some- 
times happens, fortunately for those who are late in making the en- 
trance of the harbour, that in the interval between the sea and land 
breezes, gusts blow off the eastern shore, and ships, by taking ad- 
vantage of them, and at the same time by keeping close over on 
that side, may succeed in entering the port. This was our case ; 
and at nine at night we anchored among the British squadron, un- 
der the command of Rear- Admiral Sir George Eyre, who was the 
following morning saluted with thirteen guns — a compliment which 
would have been paid by the ships to the authorities of the place, 
had it not been suspended in consequence of his Imperial Highness 
requiring certain forms on the occasion, with which his Britannic 
Majesty's government did not think it right to comply. 

The ship being in the want of caulking, and the riging of a refit, 
previous to encountering the boisterous latitude of Cape Horn, 
these repairs were immediately commenced, and the few stores ex- 
pended on the passage were replaced. While these services were 
going forward, and observations were in progress for determining 
the geographical position of the port, and for other scientific pur- 
poses, excursions were made to the various places of interest in 
which Rio Janeiro abounds : — Bota-Fogo, Braganza, the Falls of 
Tejuca, and the lofty Corcovado, were successively visited, and- af- 
forded amusement to the naturalist, the traveller, and the artist. 
Few places are more worthy the description that has been given of 
them by various authors, than those above mentioned ; and they 
have been so frequently described that they are familiar to every 
reader, and, as well as the picturesque scenery of Rio Janeiro it- 
self, are quite proverbial. Indeed there is little left in the vicinity 
of this magnificent port, of which the description will possess the 
merit of novelty. 

The observations which were made during our stay in Rio Ja- 
neiro will be found in the Appendix to the quarto edition. It may, 
however, be interesting to insert here the height of the Peak of 
Corcovado, a singularly shaped mass of granite which overlooks 
the placid waters of Bota-Fogo, as the measurements hitherto given 
are at variance with each other, and as it is a subject which has 
caused many discussions among the good people who live in its 
vicinity. 



1825.] AND BEERINC.'s STRAIT. 19 

Our first measurement was with barometers, which, calculated by- 
Mr. Daniel's new formula, gave the base of the flag-staff on the 
Peak, above half-tide 2308 feet. 

The next, by trigonometrical measurement, gave .... 2036 

On my return to the same place three years afterwards, I re- 
peated the observations, which gave the height as follows : — 

By barometrical measurement . . . . . 2291^* feet. 
By trigonometrical measurement . . . . . 2305|t 

The Sugur Loaf by the first base in 1825 was . . 1286 
by the second base in 1828 was . . 1299t 

The astronomical observations were made at an observatory 
erected in Mr. May's garden at Gloria, an indulgence for which I 
feel particularly indebted to that gentleman, as well as for other 
civilities which I received from him during my stay in the place. 

On the 13th of August we sailed from Rio Janeiro for the Pa- 
cific : a passage interesting from the difficulties which sometimes 
attend it, and from its possessing the peculiarity of producing the 
greatest change of climate in the shortest space of time. The day 
after we left the port, we encountered a dangerous thunder-storm, 
which commenced in the evening, and lasted till after midnight : 
during this time the sheet lightning was vivid and incessant, and 
the forked frequently passed between the masts. The wind varied 
so often, that it was with the greatest difficulty the sails were pre- 
vented coming aback ; and it blew so hard that it was necessary to 
lower the close-reefed topsails on the cap. Shortly after midnight, 
a vivid flash of lightning left five meteors upon the mast-heads and 
topsail yard-arms, but did no damage : they were of a bluish cast, 
burnt about a quarter of an hour, and then disappeared. The 
weather almost immediately afterwards moderated, and the thun- 
der cloud passed away. 

We had afterwards light and variable winds, with which we crept 
down to the southward, until the night of the 25th, when being 
nearly abreast of the River Plate, a succession of pamperos || be- 
gan, and continued until the 2nd of September, with their usual 

* This differs sixteen feet from the first result, which may partly be owing to the 
barometers, on this occasion, not being in such good order as at first : the amount, 
however, is so small as almost to need no apology, particularly as the observations 
were made on days as opposite as possible to each other — the first in drizzling rain, 
the last on a clear sunshining day — whereby the formula was put to the severest 
trial. 

t In this operation I was assisted by the late Captain Henry Forster, R. N. an 
officer well known to the scientific world, with whom I had the pleasure to become 
acquainted at this place. 

t The difference in these measurements is, no doubt, owing to there being no ob- 
ject on the summit of the hill sufficiently defined for the purpose of observation, 
and it is almost impossible to ascend it. 

II These are heavy gusts of wind which blow off the heated plains (or pampas) 
lying between the foot of the Cordillera Mountains and the sea. In the River Plate, 



20 VOYAGE TO THE PACIF7C [Sept. 

characteristics, of thunder and lightning, with hail and sunshine be- 
tween. On the 9th, soundings were obtained in 75 fathoms off 
the Falkland Islands ; but no land was seen at the time, in conse- 
quence of misty weather. We here again experienced a short 
though heavy gale. As it was against us, we turned our proximity 
to the land to good account, by seeking shelter under its lee, stri- 
king soundings upon a sandy bottom, from 50 to 80 fathoms, the 
depth increasing with the distance from the coast. The weather 
moderated on the day following, and we saw the land, from S. 25° 
W. to S. 56° W., eight or nine leagues distant : the wind, at the 
same time, became favourable, and carried us past the Islands dur- 
ing the night. The eastern point of these Islands (Cape St. Vin- 
cent), by such observations as we were able to make, appears to 
be correctly placed in the charts. The position I have assigned 
to it will be seen in the table at the end of the work. 

From the Falkland Islands we stood to the southward ; and after 
two short gales from the westward, made Cape Horn on the 16th, 
bearing N. 40° W. six or seven leagues. This was quite an unex- 
pected event, as a course had been shaped the clay before to pass it 
at a distance of seventy miles. It appeared, however, by the noon 
observation, that a current had drifted the ship fifty miles to the- 
northward in the twenty -four hours, a circumstance which might have 
been attended with very serious consequences had the weather been 
thick ; and ships in passing the Strait le Maife will do well to be 
on their guard against a like occurrence.* The view of this cele- 
brated promontory, which has cost navigators, from the earliest 
period of its discovery to the present time, so much difficulty to 
double, was highly gratifying to all on board, and especially so to 
those who had never seen it before ; yet it was a pleasure we would 
all willingly have exchanged for the advantage of being able to pur- 
sue an uninterrupted course along the shore of Tierra del Fuego, 
which the flattering prospect of the preceding day led us to expect, 
and which, had it not been for the northerly current, would have 
been effected with ease. The disappointment was of course very 
great, particularly as the wind at the moment was more favourable 
for rounding the cape than it usually is. 

In the evening, the Islands of Diego Ramirez were seen on the 
weather bow ; and nothing remained but to pursue the inner route, 
at the risk of being caught upon a lee-shore with a gale of wind, 
or stand back to the south-eastward, and lose in one day what it 

and near the coast, they- are very violent and dangerous, from the sudden manner 
in which they occur. Their force diminishes as the •distance from the coast in- 
creases. 

* For remarks on the currents, and observations on the winds, in the vicinity of 
Cape Horn, the reader is referred to the Nautical Remarks in the quarto edition. 



1825.] and reering's strait, 21 

would require perhaps a week to recover. We adopted the former 
alternative, and passed the Islands as close as it was prudent, in a 
dark night, striking soundings in deep water upon an uneven bottom. 

The next morning, the small groupe of Ildefonzo Islands was 
distant six miles on the lee-beam, and the mainland of Tierra del 
Fuego appeared behind it, in lofty ranges of mountains streaked 
with snow. The cape mistaken for Cape Horn by Lord Anson 
bore N. 49° E., and the promontory designated York Minister by 
Captain Cook, W. by N. The coast was bold, rocky, and much 
broken, and every here and there deeply indented, as if purposely 
to afford a refuge from the pitiless gales which occasionally beat 
upon it. The general appearance of the landscape was any thing 
but exhilarating to persons recently removed from the delightful 
scenery of Rio Janeiro ; and we were particularly struck with the 
contrast between the romantic and luxurious scenery of that place 
and the bleak coast before us, where the snow, filling the valleys 
and fissures, gave the barren projections a darker hue and a more 
rugged outline than they in reality possessed. 

As we drew in with the land, the water became discoloured, and 
specifically lighter than that in the offing, whence it was concluded 
that some rivers emptied themselves into the sea in the vicinity. 
In the evening it became necessary to stand off the coast ; and we 
experienced the disadvantages of the offing, by getting into the 
stream of the easterly current, and by the increase of both wind 
and sea.* We stood to the westward again as soon as it could be 
done ; and on the 26th were fifty leagues due west of Cape Pillar, 
a situation from which there is no difficulty in making the remain- 
der of the passage. 

We now, for a time at least, bade adieu to the shores of Tierra 
del Fuego, whose coast and climate we quitted with far more fa- 
vourable impressions than those under which they were approach- 
ed. This, I think, will be the case with every man-of-war that 
passes it, excepting the few that may be particularly unfortunate 
in their weather ; for early navigation has stamped it with a char- 
acter which will ever be coupled with its name, notwithstanding its 
terrors are gradually disappearing before the progressive improve- 
ment in navigation. It must be admitted we were much favoured : 
few persons, probably, who effect the passage, will have it in their 
power to say they were only a week from the meridian of Cape 
Horn to a station fifty leagues due west of Cape Pillar, and that 

* It is a curious fact, that on this day, at a distance of only fifty leagues 
from where we were, it blew a" strong gale of wind, with a high sea, which washed 
away the bulwark of a fine brig, the Hellespont, commanded by Lieutenant Charles 
Parker, R. N., to whom I am indebted for this and other interesting information on 
the winds and currents encountered by him in his passage. 



22 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

during that time there was more reason to complain of light winds 
and calms, than the heavy gales which proverbially visit these 
shores. 

Navigators distinguish the passages round Cape Horn by the 
outer and inner; some recommending one, some the other; and 
doubtless both have their advantages and disadvantages. It would 
be very uninteresting here to discuss the merits of either, as the 
question has been sufficiently considered elsewhere ; and it would, 
in my opinion, be equally useless, as very few persons follow the 
advice of their predecessors in a matter of this nature, but pursue 
that course which from circumstances may seem most advantageous 
at the moment ; and this will ever be the case where such differ- 
ence of opinion exists. What I had to say on this subject has 
been published in the Nautical Remarks to the quarto edition. 

In dercribing the passage round Cape Horn, I have omitted to 
mention some particulars on the days on which they occurred, in 
order that they may not interrupt the narrative. As we approach- 
ed the Falkland Islands from Rio Janeiro, some penguins were 
seen upon the water in latitude 47° S., at a distance of three hun- 
dred and forty miles from the nearest land ; a fact which either 
proves the common opinion, that this species never stray far from 
land, to be in error, or that some unknown land exists in the vicin- 
ity. As their situation was not far from the parallell in which the 
long-sought He Grande of La Roche was said to have been seen, 
those who are wedded to the common opinion above alluded to, 
may yet fancy such an island has existence ; although it is highly 
improbable that it should have escaped the observation, not only 
of those who purposely went in search of it, but of the numerous 
ships also which have of late made the passage from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific. Another opinion, not quite so general, (but which 
I have heard repeatedly expressed with reference to the coast of 
California), is, that of aquatic birds confining their flight within cer- 
tain limits, so that a person who has paid attention to the subject 
will know by the birds that are about him, without seeing the land, 
what part of the coast he is off. My own experience does not 
enable me to offer any remarks on the subject, except in the in- 
stance of the St. Sawrence Islands, in Beering's Strait, the vicini- 
ty to which is always indicated by the Crested Auk (alca cresta- 
tella). But the following fact may be serviceable in adding weight 
to the opinion, provided it were not accidental ; and if so, it may 
still be useful in calling the attention of others to the subject. Off 
the River Plate, we fell in with the dusky albatross (diomedia 
fulginosa), and as we proceeded southward, they became very 
numerous; but on reaching the latitude of 51° S. they "all 
quitted us. We rounded the cape ; and on regaining the same 



1825.] and beering's strait. 23 

parallel of 51° S. on the opposite side, they again came round us, 
and accompanied the ship up the Chili coast. The pintadoes were 
our constant attendants the whole way. 

From the time of leaving England, the temperature of the surface 
of the sea had been registered every two hours. Off Cape Horn, I 
caused it to be tried every hour, under an impression that it might 
apprise us of our approach to floating ice, when, from the darkness of 
the night, or foggy weather, it could not be seen ; a plan I would 
recommend being adopted, as it may be useful, notwithstanding its 
fallibity ; for though ice in detached masses, when drifting fast 
with the wind, extends its influence a very short way in the direc- 
tion of its course : yet on the other hand, its effect may be felt a 
considerable distance in its wake. We had only one warning of this 
nature, by a decrease of temperature of four degrees, which lasted 
about an hour. The temperature of the sea, at the greatest depth 
our lines would reach, was not below 39°, 2. Off the Falkland 
Islands, it was the same at S54 fathoms as at 603 fathoms. The 
lowest temperature of the air was 26°. The current, which at a 
distance from the land runs fast to the eastward to the discomfiture 
of ships bound in the opposite direction, near the coast to the west- 
ward of Cape Horn, at first entirely ceased, and afterwards took a 
contrary course. There is much reason to believe that it continues 
this north-westerly course, and ultimately falls into the northerly 
current so prevalent along the coast of Chili. 

The wind was now favorable for making progress to the north- 
ward. My instructions did not direct me to proceed to any port on 
the coast of Chili, but circumstances rendered it necessary to put 
into one of them, and I selected Conception as being the most de- 
sirable for our purpose. 

The weather had for a long time been cloudy ; but on this night 
a clear sky presented to our view a comet of unusual magnitude and 
brilliancy, situated to the southeast of the square formed by snog 
Ceti. The head had a blueish cast towards its nucleus, where in- 
deed it was so bright, that with our small telescopes it appeared to 
be a star ; but this was evidently a deception, as Mr. Herschell, 
who made some interesting and satisfactory observations on the 
same comet, found on turning his twenty feet reflector upon it, that 
the star-like appearance of the nucleus was only an illusion.* The 
tail extended between 9° and 10° of arc in a N. W. direction, and 
gradually increased in width from the nucleus till near its termina- 
tion. We made a number of measurements to ascertain its place, 
and continued them every night afterwards on which the comet ap- 
peared ; but as its orbit has been calculated from far more accurate 

* See Memoir Ast, Soc. vol. ii. p. 2. 



24 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [ Oct. 

observations, and ours were necessarily made with stars unequally- 
affected by refraction, which involves a laborious reduction, besides 
the abstruse calculation for determining its orbit, I have not given 
them a place. 

On the following night . we noticed distinctly the bifurcation of 
the tail represented in the Memoirs of the Astronomical Society. 
The branches were of unequal length, and the lower one diverged 
from the nucleus, at an angle of about 40°. 

On the 6th we made the island of Mocha, on the coast of 
Chili, a place once celebrated as a resort of the Buccaneers, who 
anchored off it for the useful supplies which in their days it fur- 
nished. Its condition was then certainly very different from the 
present : several Indian chiefs and a numerous population resided 
there, and it was well stocked with cattle, sheep, hogs, and poultry. 
At present it is entirely deserted, except by horses and hogs, both 
of which, Captain Hall states, are used as fresh stock by whaling 
ships in the Pacific. The Indians appear to have been generally 
very cordial with their visiters, exchanging the produce of the 
island for cutlery and trinkets. They, however, apparently with- 
out provocation, attacked Sir Francis Drake, and wounded him and 
all his boat's crew. In 1690 the island was found deserted by 
Captain Strong, and it has since remained uninhabited. The cause 
of this is not known, though I was informed in Chili, that it was in 
consequence of the frequent depredations committed by vessels 
that touched at the island. 

We quitted Mocha, passed the island of St. Mary, which must 
not be approached on account of sunken rocks, and anchored at Tal- 
cahuana, the sea-port of Conception, on the 8th, fifty-six days from 
Rio Janeiro. Here we found the British squadron, under the com- 
mand of Captain Maling, from whom I received every assistance 
and attention. Our arrival off the port was on one of those 
bright days of sunshine which characterize the summer of the 
temperate zone on the western side of America. The cliffs of 
Quinquina, an island situated in the entrance of the harbour, were 
covered with birds, curiously arranged in rows along the various 
strata ; and on the rocks were numberless seals basking in the sun, 
either making the shores re-echo with their discordant noise, or so 
unmindful of all that was passing, as to allow the birds to alight up- 
on them and peck their oily skin without offering any resistance. 

The sea-port of Conception is a deep, commodious bay, well 
protected from notherly winds by the fertile little island above-men- 
tioned, lying at its entrance : there is a passage on either side of it, 
but the eastern is the only one in use, the other being very narrow 
and intricate. The land on the eastern and western sides of the 
bay is high, well wooded, and on the latter very steep; on the 



1825.] and beering's strait. 25 

former it slopes from the mountains toward the sea with gentle un- 
dulations. Several villages «,re situated along the shore on both 
sides, but principally on the eastern. Around these hamlets, some 
diminutive patches of a more lively green than the surrounding 
country, show the very limited extent to which cultivation is car- 
ried ; of which we had further proof as we proceeded up the bay, 
by witnessing groups of both sexes up to their middle in the sea, 
collecting their daily subsistence from beds of choros and other 
shell-fish. 

Talcahuana we found to be a miserable little town, extending 
along the beach, and up a once fertile valley ; divided into streets 
and squares, but much dilapidated, dusty, and in some places over- 
grown with grass. A thousand inmates occupied these wretched 
dwellings, who acknowledged the supremacy of a governor, poor, 
but independent ; and intrusted their spiritual concerns to the care 
. of a patriot priest. In the principal square stood a church, in 
character with the rest of the buildings ; and in front of it a belfry, 
which for some time past must have endangered the life of the 
bellman. His occupation, however, was less laborious than in other 
catholic countries, as it was here called into action but once in seven 
days ; and was then attended to only by the female part of the in- 
habitants. 

It was painful to compare the present circumstances of this place 
with the prosperity that once prevailed, and impossible to look upon 
the unhappy inhabitants without feelings of pity at the state to 
which they were reduced. The other villages in the bay were m 
a very similar condition ; and one, Tombe, where there was for- 
merly an extensive saltpetre manufactory, was entirely deserted. 

The day after my arrival, I accompanied the captains of the 
squadron, and Mr. Nugent the consul general, to Conception, pur- 
suant to an invitation we received from the Intendente to visit that 
city. Its distance from Talcahuana is about ^hree leagues. The 
road, at first, leads over a steep hill to the eastward of the town, 
the summit of which commands an excellent view of the natural 
advantages of defence which the peninsula of Talcahuana pos- 
sesses, and shows how formidable it might become under judicious 
management. The royalists were not ignorant of this, and during 
the turbulent times of emancipation, sought shelter amongst them, 
cut ditches, and threw up temporary works of defence, all of which 
are now nearly effaced by the heavy rains that visit this country at 
particular periods of the year. At the back of this range of hills, 
the country is flat and occasionally swampy, and continues so, with 
very little interruption, to the Colle de Chepe, a small eminence, 
whence a stranger obtains the first view of the river Bio Bio and 
the city. The intendente met us about a mile outside the town, 

vol. i. 4 



26 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct- 

and accompanied us to his residence, where we experienced a most 
cordial and hospitable reception. * 

Conception, during its prosperity has been described by the 
able pens of Juan de Ulloa, La Perouse, and others ; and since its 
misfortunes, by a well-known naval author, who has admirably pic- 
tured the ruin and desolation which the city at that time must have 
presented. Much of his description would have correctly applied 
to the time of our visit, but generally speaking, there was a decided 
improvement in every department. The panic occasioned by the 
daring associates of the outlaw Benavides, Peneleo, and Pinche- 
ro, was beginning to subside. These chiefs, unable to make head 
against the people when united, had of late confined their depre- 
dations to the immediate vicinity of their strong-holds among the 
mountains : the peasants had returned to the cultivation of the soil ; 
looms were active in various parts of the town ; and dilapidations 
were gradually disappearing before cumbrous brickwork and mason- 
ry. Commerce was consequently beginning to revive ; there were 
several merchant-vessels in the port ; and the Quadra, once " silent 
as the dead," now resounded with the voices of muleteers con- 
ducting the exports and import of the country. 

The tranquil and improving condition of the state was further 
evinced by the equipment of an expedition against the island of 
Chiloe, which still maintained its allegiance to the mother country. 
The preparations appeared to give general satisfaction in Concep- 
tion, and recruits were daily enlisting, and training in the Presidio. 
I peeped through the gate one morning, and saw these tyros in 
arms going through the ordeal of the awkward squad. They were 
half Indians, without shoes .or stockings, and with heads like mush- 
rooms, Their appearance, however, was immaterial : they were 
the troops on which the people placed their dependence, which the 
result of the expedition did not disappoint ; and the effect upon 
their minds was equally exhilarating. Hitherto obliged to act on 
the defensive against a few piratical Indian chiefs, they now found 
themselves lending their troops to carry on a warfare in a distant 
province. Such was the prosperous state of affairs at the time of 
our arrival ; and the highest expectations pervaded all classes of 
society. 

The town of Conception occupies nearly a square mile of ground. 
It is situated on the noth side of the river Bio Bio, and is distant 
from it about a quarter of a mile. Its site was chosen in 1763, 
about twelve years after the old city of Penco was destroyed by an 
earthquake or rather by an inundation, occasioned by a tremendous 
reaction of the sea. Such a catastrophe, it might be supposed, 
would be sufficient to deter the inhabitants from again building on 
low ground ; nevertheless, the present city is erected on a spot 



1825.] and beeking's strait. 27 

scarcely more elevated than the other, and the river, when high, 
washes the threshold of the nearest houses. It has no defences ; 
and is also very badly situated in this respect, being commanded by 
a range of hills close behind it. Benavides was fully aware of this, 
and constructed a battery upon the eminence, which still bears his 
name : but the guns are spiked, and the fort is in ruins. 

During the late incursions, we were told, that the mode of re- 
pelling an attack was to collect the inhabitants into squares, and 
barricade the streets leading out of them, with whatever came first 
to hand : the musketry and the muzzles of the field-pieces were 
then thrust through these temporary bulwarks, and a fire opened 
upon the assailants. This was a sufficiently secure defence against 
the Indians, but it is easy to imagine what would have been the 
effect of a few well-placed cannon upon a crowd of persons so 
collected. 

In the selection of the site of the new city, the advantage of the 
river Bio Bio was, no doubt, the great consideration ; and when in- 
land navigation is as well understood in that country as in some 
others, it will be of the greatest importance, though its numerous 
shoals must occasion serious difficulties. Part of the produce of the 
interior is now brought down upon rafts, which, not being able to return, 
are broken up and sold for timber. There is a ferry-boat over the 
river for the accommodation of persons who wish to pass from Con- 
ception to the Indian country, and sufficiently large to carry cattle or 
horses. The natives cross in punts, but have so much difficulty 
in stemming the current and avpiding banks and shallows, that, 
though the extreme distance is only a mile, they are sometimes an 
hour and a half performing the passage. Although the Spaniards 
nominally possessed territory far to the southward of this river, yet 
it in reality formed their boundary, and until very lately it was un- 
safe for an European, to venture far upon that side, on account of 
straggling parties of the Indians.* The mouth of the Bio Bio is 
circumscribed by banks, which have progressively risen, to 210 
yards ; and even this narrow stream is divided by a rock one-third 
of the way across it. If the plan of the entrance be correct in the 
chart annexed to La Perouse^ Voyage, the formation of these 
banks has been very rapid, and has altered the channel of the river. 

The population of Conception is about 6500 persons. The in- 
habitants, the labouring class at least, have a particularly healthy look. 
The men have hard features and strong sinewy limbs, and the wo- 
men and children are fatter than would be agreeable to most per- 
sons : short stature, dark hair and eyes, and pretty Indian features, 

* I have been informed that since this period (1825), the Intendente has a magni- 
ficent estate on that side of the river, that the Indians are quiet, and that Concep- 
tion has undergone great improvement. 



28 . VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

are the characteristics of their persons. They are subject to but 
few diseases ; and for these they have their own remedies, consist- 
ing principally of medicinal herbs, with which the country abounds, 
and in the preparation of which they are well skilled. Fevers, oc- 
casioned by cold and dampness, are the most common complaints. 

In the streets of Conception I did not see a single cripple, a very 
rare circumstance in Spanish towns ; nor were we molested by beg- 
gars, beyond a few troublesome boys beseeching alms ; and this 
arose more from impudence, and a determination to try their luck, 
than from any real necessity : in secret, however, there are not 
wanting persons who, if opportunity offered, would not only solicit 
charity, but enforce their demand with a pistol or a stiletto. On 
meeting the Indians in an unfrequented part of the country, it is 
particularly necessary to be on your guard ; for these half-civilized 
barbarians are generally intoxicated, and care very little about in- 
sulting or maltreating strangers even in the heart of the town, much 
less when alone in the country. A regiment of Araucaneans is 
embodied in the army of the state, and quartered in the town : 
they retain their own weapons, and continue their own tactics. A 
specimen of their extraordinary and barbarous warfare was exhib- 
ited at Conception during our stay. 

Since the trade of Chili has been thrown open, a remarkable 
change in the costume of the inhabitants, and also in the furniture 
of their houses, has taken place ; and an Englishman may now see 
with pride the inferior manufactures of his own country prized, to 
the exclusion of the costly gold and silver tissue stuffs of Spain, 
which, Perouse observes, were "entailed in families like diamonds, 
and descended from the great-grandmother to the children of the 
third and fourth generation. Even the national musical instrument, 
the guitar, has fallen into neglect, and has been supplanted by the 
English piano-forte. It would have been better for the lower orders 
of society, of which a large portion of the population of Concep- 
tion consists, if the use of this simple instrument had been retained ; 
for it is well known, in foreign countries, how many hours of inno- 
cent mirth are beguiled in the happy circles it assembles around the 
cottage doors ; and how many idle characters its fascination deters 
from indulging in less innocent occupations, to which the Chilians 
are equally prone with other nations ; though I am by no means 
an advocate for its being prized to the extent it once was by the 
Portuguese, who, after a battle in which they were defeated, left 
14,000 guitars upon the field.* 

The entertainments most frequented in Conception are cock- 
fighting and billiards. All classes of society assemble at the pit, 

* Mengiana, torn. i. 



1825,] AND EEEPaNG ? S STRAIT, 29 

and if there be no fight, will light their cigars, and chat whole hours 
away, in the hope of a match being made up, and are dispersed only 
by the approach of night. The English cocks are most esteemed, 
and are sometimes valued at a hundred dollars a-apiece (twenty 
guineas). The Chilian spurs cut as well as thrust, and greatly short- 
en the cruel exhibition. Some of the governors are said to have im- 
posed a tax on these establishments for their own private advantage, 
but without the authority of the laws. 

Of the country round Conception I have little to say, except 
that it has undergone a great change since the days of its prosper- 
ity. In the parallel of 37° on the western side of a great contin- 
ent a luxuriant soil may be expected to produce an abundant vege- 
tation. This district has, in consequence, been famous for its grain, 
vines, fruits, esculent roots, &tc. and for its pasture lands, on which 
formerly were reared immense herds of cattle, and horses of the 
finest breed. But the effects of the disturbed state of the country 
are as manifest here as in the different parts of the city. At pres- 
ent, as much arable land as is absolutely necessary for the support 
of the inhabitants is cleared, and no more ; and even its produce is 
but scantily enjoyed by the lower classes on the coast, who are 
obliged to subsist almost entirely upon shell-fish. The soil, if at- 
tended to, will give an abundant return : wheat, barley, Indian corn, 
beans, pease, potatoes, and arrow-root ; grapes, apples, pears, cur- 
rants, strawberries, and olives, are the common produce of the 
country. From the latter a fine oil is extracted ; but the fruit is 
too rank to be eaten at table, except by the natives. The arrow- 
root is of a good quality and very cheap. In the ravines and moist 
places, the panque (gunnera scabra) grows luxuriantly and strong : 
it is a very useful root, and serves for several purposes ; a pleasant 
and cooling drink is extracted from it, which is deemed beneficial 
in feverish complaints ; its root furnishes a liquid serviceable in tan- 
ning, and superior to any of the barks of South America ; when 
made into tarts, it is scarcely inferior to the rhubarb, for which it is 
sometimes mistaken ; and it is eaten, in strips after dinner, with 
cheese and wine, &c. Several European shrubs and herbaceous 
plants grow here, but more luxuriantly than in our own country ; 
among these were hemlock, flax, chickweed, pimpernel, water- 
cresses, and a species of elder. 

The wines which were formerly so much esteemed, and carried 
along the coast to the northward, are now greatly deteriorated, and 
in the sea-port much adulterated. There is a great variety of 
them, and in general they are very intoxicating. The only palat- 
able kind I tasted was made from the vines on the estate of Gen- 
eral Friere, and for which I was indebted to the liberality of the 
governor, as there was none to be purchased. This wine, though 
agreeable to the English palate, is not in such estimation with the 



30 VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

Chilians as one that has a strong empyreumatic flavour. It ac- 
quires this in the process of heating, or rather of boiling, the fruit, 
which is done with a view to extract a larger proportion of the 
juice than could be obtained by the ordinary means, and to pro- 
duce a mellowness which age only could otherwise give. Cici and 
mattee are still in use, though less so than formerly ; and indeed it 
appeared to me that the Chilians were fast getting rid of all their 
old customs, of which the drinking of mattee is one. 

After passing a very pleasant time in the society of the Inten- 
dente, we took our leave, and returned to the port. Our occupa- 
tions there were divided between astronomical observations, making 
a survey of the bays of Conception and St. Vincent, and equipping 
the ship for sea. 

I had some hesitation in procuring coal for our sea-stock of fuel ; 
not that the article was become scarce, but on account of the enor- 
mous price to which the owner thought proper, on this occasion, to 
raise it. Captain Hall states, that when he was at this place, the 
Penco coal, which was the best, was sold for twelve shillings a ton, 
all expenses included ; but the same quantity was now valued at 
nine dollars, besides the labour of digging and carrying. This 
arose from a report that some mines which had been recently dis- 
covered were about to be worked, which would occasion a great and 
permanent demand for the material. The coal is of a very inferior 
quality, and fit only for the forge. Hitherto, however, experiment 
has been made only upon that which is near the surface : when the 
mines are worked, if they ever be, a better quality, in all probabil- 
ity, will be obtained. Talcahuana and Penco are, I believe, the 
only places where coal has yet been discovered near Conception. 
Were this article of a good quality and reasonable, there would be 
a great demand for it at Valparaiso, and among the several squad- 
rons upon the station ; and it would probably be well worth the 
experiment of the owner to search a little deeper in the earth, and 
ascertain the nature of the lower strata. These veins occur in red 
sandstone formation, and do not appear at the surface to be very 
extensive, or to promise any very large supply of fuel. This ob- 
servation applies only to that part of the coast which lies in the vi- 
cinity of Conception and the port, a large proportion of which is 
composed of diluvial depositions. 

We are informed by a visiter to this country, that limestone is found 
at Conception, and is used by the inhabitants for whitewashing their 
houses ; but this is evidently a mistake, as the natives collect shells, 
and calcine them for that purpose; besides, in no part of the bay or 
vicinity of Conception could we perceive limestone, or even hear of 
its existence. A gentleman pointed out a place to the northward 
of Tome Bay where, he said, it occurred ; but, on examination, only 
clay-slate, chert, and green-stone were found. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 31 

As the geology of Conception will appear in another place, I 
shall merely observe here, that in the secondary sandstone a va- 
riety of petrifactions occur, of wood, shells, and bones, formed by 
an infiltration of siliceous and calcareous matter. The little island 
of Quiriquina presents alternate horizontal strata of pebbles, sand- 
stone, and petrified substances, principally of wood, and vertebral 
and other bones of the whale. Oh the opposite shore a fossil nau- 
tilus was found, which measured three feet in diameter. Upon the 
beach, in several parts of the bay, there are ridges of magnetic 
iron-sand which the waves have thrown up : they are seen adher- 
ing together, apparently by mutual attraction, 

The abundance of shell-fish in Conception entices a great many 
birds within the bay . The shore is occasionally thronged with 
them, and the shags sometimes fly in an unbroken line of two miles 
and more in length. The quebranta huessos, the black-backed 
gull, a species of tern, and two or three species of pelican, one of 
which pursues its food in a very entertaining manner. It first soars 
to a great height, and then suddenly darts into the sea, splashing 
the water in all directions: in a few seconds, it emerges and re- 
sumes its lofty flight until again attracted by its prey, when it plun- 
ges into the sea as before, and thus the flock, for these birds are 
gregarious, ranges over the whole bay, performing all its motions in 
concert and with a surprising rapidity. The penguin is also here, 
and a very large species of duck, the female of which has a callosity 
on the shoulder of each wing, and is very excellent eating ; a species 
ofcolymbus with lobed toes; curlews, sea-pies, horned plovers, a 
beautiful species of chaverey, with iridescent plumage ; the oyster- 
eater, or razor bill, and sanderlings ; turkey buzzards, the condor, 
several species of hawks, owls, black-birds, and wood-pigeons, the 
latter of which are very large and good to eat ; a very beautiful spe- 
cies of duck, frequenting the marshes and lakes between Talcahuana 
and Conception ; partridges, a species of woodpecker, a dark-brown 
fringilla, with a beautiful scarlet breast, a species of lozia, turdus, 
hirundo, ampelis, not remarkable for their plumage, and numerous 
flocks of green parrots, which the Chilian Spaniard, who eats almost 
every kind of bird, has no objection to place upon his table. The 
domesticated fowls are the same here as in Europe. The reptiles 
are few, and not venomous : small lizards are extremely common on 
the rocks, and among the trees. There are one or two species of 
snakes ; a large one, resembling the common English adder is fre- 
quent, and a small green snake was caught by one of the officers. 

The fish are not very numerous, only coming into the bay with 
a particular wind. The number of whales which guard the en- 
trance, and the shoals of seals, grampusses, and porpoises, which 
crowd the bay, must destroy a great many. Shell-fish are an ex- 



32 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [ Oct. 

ception to this scarcity, and being very large, form no small portion 
of the food of those inhabitants who live on the borders of the bay. 
Besides the choros, a large muscle, and locas (concho lejms*), men- 
tioned by Ulloa, there are several other small species which are 
more esteemed than the large choros, a number of razor, and some 
venus-shells. Large sea-eggs are highly prized, and, like the oth- 
ers, eaten raw. The smaller shell-fish are, various sorts of limpets, 
turbots, neritas, murex, and some others : there are also a great 
many crabs. 

In the survey of the Bay of Conception, a shoal was discovered 
by Lieutenant Belcher on the Penco side, which is probably that 
upon which a vessel struck some time previous, but which the 
boats of the squadron could not afterwards find. It was necessary 
to make some alteration in the position of Belen bank, from the 
manner in which it is laid down in the Spanish charts, and the 
shoal said to occur off the sandy point of Quinquina does not in 
fact exist. The western entrance was thoroughly examined, and 
found to be quite safe, though very narrow, and should only be used 
in all cases of difficulty in weathering Paxaros Ninos, with a north- 
erly wind. The bay of St. Vincent does not appear to me to af- 
ford security to any vessel of more than a hundred tons with a 
strong westerly wind ; and I would advise no large ship to put in 
there under such circumstances, if she could possibly avoid it. 
Further information on the subject will be found among the Nau- 
tical Remarks. 

Conception, as a place of refreshment, in every way answered 
our expectations : fresh beef, poultry, good water, vegetables, and 
wood are to be had : they happened to be dear at the time of our 
visit, but no doubt, if the country remains tranquil, they will be 
both cheap and more abundant. 

On the 20th our operations were completed ; but a strong north- 
erly wind prevented our putting to sea, and we anchored under the 
little island of Quinquina. This is a very secure stopping place, 
and, in the winter season, a better anchorage to refit a ship at, than 
that off Talcahuana. It is small, and a ship must lie very close to 
the shore. After two days of contrary wind, we put to sea on the 
24th, and three days afterwards anchored at Valparaiso, in the hope 
of receiving some supplies which we could not procure at Concep- 
tion ; but being disappointed in their arrival, on the 29th we 
weighed, and took our final leave of the coast. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 33 



CHAPTER II. 



Leave the Coast of Chili — Visit Sala-y-Gomez — Easter Island — Hostile Recep- 
tion there — Description of the Inhabitants, Island, &c. — Enter the dangerous 
Archipelago — Davis' Island — Elizabeth or Henderson's Island, its singular For- 
mation — See Pitcairn island. 

On leaving Valparaiso, my intention was, if possible, to pass 
within sight of Juan Fernandez, in order to determine its position ; 
but finding the wind would not allow us to approach sufficiently 
near even to see it, we kept away for the island of Sala-y-Gomez, 
and with the view of making this part of the voyage useful, the 
ship's course was directed between the tracks of Vancouver and 
Malespina on the south side, and many other navigators on the 
north, who, engaged in pursuits similar to our own, had run down 
the parallels of 27° and 28° S. in search of the land discovered by 
Davis. These parallels, during the summer months, are subject to 
light and variable airs ; and we, in consequence, made very slow 
progress, particularly as we approached the meridian of the island, 
where it became necessary to adopt the precaution of lying-to 
every night, that the object of our search might not be passed un- 
observed. 

When the nights were clear, we continued our observations on 
the comet. On the 30th the coma had increased to the enormous 
length of 24° ; the nucleus was larger and more brilliant than be- 
fore ; and the ray before-mentioned as forming part of the coma, 
was more distinct and apparently at a greater angle with it than 
when first seen. 

The day after we quitted the coast of Chili, all the birds left us ; 
even the pintados, which had been our constant attendants for up- 
wards of 5000 miles, deserted us on this occasion. We afterwards 
saw very little on the wing, I believe nothing, except a wandering 
albatross, until we approached the island of Sala-y-Gomez. 

In the Pacific, in particular, the navigator should not be inatten- 
tive to the presence or absence of birds, as they will generally be 
found in the vicinity of islands, and especially of such as are un- 
inhabited and of coral formation. On the 14th, several tropic 

VOL. I. 5 



34 



VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 



birds, boatswains, and gannets, flew round the ship, and were hail- 
ed as an omen which did not deceive us, for at daylight, on the 
following morning, the island of Sala-y-Gomez was seen from the 
mast-head, bearing N. N. W., fifteen miles distant. 

We shortly closed with this isolated spot, and found its extent 
much less than has been stated. It is, indeed, scarcely more than 
a heap of rugged stones, which the elements appear to have 
thrown together, and in a gale of wind would not be distinguished 
amidst the spray. The rocks, except such as have been selected 
for roosting places by the sea-gulls, are of a dark-brown colour. 
Upon a small flat spot there was a moss-like vegetation, and near 
it a few logs of wood, or planks, which the imagination might con- 
vert into the remains of some miserable vessel whose timbers had 
there found a resting-place. Though several vessels have been 
missing in these seas, we have no intelligence of any having been 
wrecked here. Sala-y-Gomez, when he discovered the island, im- 
agined he found the frame of a vessel upon it, and in all probabil- 
ity the wood which we saw was the same ; but whether it was so 
or not, our curiosity and desire to land were fully awakened, though 
we were disappointed by the high breakers which rolled over every 
part of the shore-. 

We remained some time under the lee of the island, narrowly 
scrutinizing it with our telescopes, but without adding to our infor- 
mation. During this time the ship was surrounded by sharks and 
bonitos, but none were taken, nor were our fishermen more fortu- 
nate at the bottom. The feathery tribe,* disturbed from their 
roost, came fearlessly around us ; we shot several, and in the stom- 
ach of a pelican a volcanic pebble was found, which some of us 
conjectured to have been gathered upon the island, and thence in- 
ferred its particular formation. 

Sala-y-Gomez, when first seen has the appearance of three 
rocks : its direction is N. W. and S. E. ; and it is something less 
than half a mile in length, and a fifth of a mile in width. Some 
sunken rocks lie off the N. E. and S. E. points : in other direc- 
tions the island may be approached within a quarter of a mile. 
N. 50° W. i mile there are soundings ; in 46 fathoms sand and 
coral; and N. 33° W. 1^ mile, 140 fathoms gray sand. A refer- 
ence to the geographical table will show the position of the island, 
and I shall here only remark, that Captain Kotzebue's latitude 
is nine miles in error, which perhaps may be a typographical 
mistake. 

From hence we bore away to the westward, with the intention 

* Phaeton ethereus, Felicanus leucocephaluSj sterna stolida, and a small dove^col- 
oured tern. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 35 

of passing near the situation of an island named Washington and 
Coffin, reported to have been discovered by an American ship. 
At sunset we were within four leagues of the spot, with a perfectly 
clear sky and horizon, but could see nothing of it ; nor had we 
any indication of land in the immediate vicinity, but rather the con- 
trary, as the birds which had followed us from Sala-y-Gomez had 
quitted the ship some time before. As the night was fine, and the 
moon gave sufficient light to discover in time any danger that might 
lie in the route of the ship, the course was continued toward East- 
er Island, and daylight appeared without any thing being seen. 
Had such an island been in existence, and answered the descrip- 
tion of that upon which Davis was so near losing his vessel, geog- 
raphers would not have been long in reconciling their opinions on 
the subject of his discovery, as, in all probability, they would have 
waived their objection to its distance from Copiapo, in considera- 
tion of its identity. 

The subject of this supposed discovery has been often discussed ; 
and where the data are so unsatisfactory as to allow one party to 
choose the Islands of Felix and Ambrose for the land in question, 
and the other, Easter Island, two places nearly 1600 miles apart, 
they are not likely to be speedily reconciled, unless two islands 
exactly answering the description given by Davis, and situated in 
the proper latitude, shall be found. Such persons as are curiously 
disposed on this subject will find it ably treated by the - late Cap- 
tain Burney, R. N., in his account of the Buccaneers. 

Without entering into a question which presents so many diffi- 
culties, I shall merely observe, that, considering the rapid current 
that exists in the vicinity of the Galapagos, and extends, though 
with diminished force, throughout the trade wind, the error in Da- 
vis's reckoning is not more than might have happened to any dull 
sailing vessel circumstanced as his was. To substantiate this, I 
shall advert to four instances- out of many others which might be 
named. In a short run from Juan Fernandez to Easter Island, 
Behrens, who was with Roggewein, was drifted 318 geographical 
miles from his supposed situation. The Blossom, in passing over 
the same ground, in the short space of eighteen days experienced 
a set of 270 miles ; and on her passage from Acapulo to Valparai- 
so of 401 miles : and again M. La Perouse, on his arrival at the 
Sandwich Islands from Conception, touching at Easter Island on 
his way, found a similar error of 300 miles in the course of that 
passage. It is fair to presume that the passage of Davis from the 
Galapagos to Easter Island was longer than that of either of the 
above-mentioned vessels ; and consequently it is but reasonable to 
allow him a greater error, particularly as the first part of his route 
was through a much stronger current, But taking the error in the 



36 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

Blossom's reckoning as a fair amount, and applying it to the dis- 
tance given by Wafer, there will remain only 204 miles unaccount- 
ed for between it and the real position of Easter Island, which 
from the foregoing considerations, added to the manner in which 
reckonings were formerly kept, does not appear to me to exceed 
the limit that might reasonably be ascribed to those causes. 

M. La Perouse was of opinion that the islands of Felix and 
Ambrose were those under discussion, and in order to reconcile 
their distance from Copiapo with that given by Wafer, he has im- 
puted to him the mistake of a figure in his text, without consider- 
ing that it would have been next to impossible for Davis to have 
pursued a direct course from the Galapagos to those islands, (es- 
pecially at the season in which his voyage was made,) but on the 
contrary that he would be compelled to make a circuit which would 
have brought him much nearer to Easter Island ; and that Davis 
acquainted Dampier with the situation of his discovery, which 
agreed with that contained in Wafer's account. The alteration in 
a figure, it must be admitted, is rather arbitrary, as it has nothing 
to support it but the circumstance of the number of islands being 
the same. A mistake certainly might have occurred, but in the 
admission of it either party may claim it as an advantage by inter- 
preting the presumed error in a way which would support their 
own opinions. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 16th of November, East- 
er Island was seen from the mast-head, bearing N. 78° W. (Mag.) 
fourteen or sixteen leagues, and we were consequently very nearly 
in the situation of the long looked for, small, sandy island, which, 
had it existed within reasonable limits of its supposed place, could 
not have escaped our observation. Nothing of it however was 
seen, nor had we any indication of the vicinity of such a spot as 
we proceeded, though we must have actually passed over the place 
assigned to it. Easter Island had at first the appearance of being 
divided into two, rather flat at the top, with rounded capes ; the 
north-eastern of which is distinguished by two hillocks. To avoid 
over-running the distance, the ship was hove-to at night, and at 
daylight on the following morning we bore up for the northern 
shore of the island. I preferred that side, as it had been but par- 
tially examined by Captain Cook, and not at all by M. La Perouse. 

As we approached, we observed numerous small craters rising 
above the low land, and near the N. E. extremity, one of consid- 
erable extent, with a deep chasm in its eastern side. None of these 
were in action, nor indeed did they appear to have been so for a 
very long time, as, with the exception of the one above-mentioned, 
they were covered with verdure. The N. E. promontory, already 
noticed as having two small hillocks upon it, was composed of hor- 



1825.] and beering's strait. 37 

izontal strata, apparently of volcanic origin ; and near it, some 
patches of earth, sloping down to the cliff, were supposed to con- 
sist of red scoria;. The hills, and exposed parts of the earth, 
were overgrown with short burnt-up grass, which gave the surface 
a monotonous and arid aspect ; but the valleys were well cultivated, 
and showed that the island required only a due proportion of moist- 
ure and labour to produce a luxuriant vegetation. 

Passing along the northern shore, we saw several of those ex- 
tensive habitations which M. La Perouse has described, situated in 
a valley surrounded by groves of banana trees and other patches 
of cultivation. The larger huts were placed near the wood, and 
the smaller ones close together outside them. Nearer the sea- 
shore, which here forms a bay, was a morai, surmounted by four 
images standing upon a low platform, precisely answering the de- 
scription and representation of one given by Perouse ; and also an 
immense enclosure of stones, and several large piles, which, as 
well as the images, were capped with something white, a circum- 
stance noticed both by Captain Cook and M. Perouse. 

The greatest attention appeared to be paid to the cultivation of 
the soil. Such places as were not immediately exposed to the 
scorching rays of the sun were laid out in oblong strips, taking the 
direction of the ravines ; and furrows were ploughed at right an- 
gles to them, for the purpose of intercepting the streams of water 
in their descent. Near the middle of the small bay just mentioned, 
there was an extinguished crater, the side of which, fronting the 
sea, had fallen in. The natives, availing themselves of this nat- 
ural reservoir for moisture, in which other parts of the island are 
so deficient, had cultivated the soil in its centre, and reared a grove 
of banana-trees, which, as we passed, had a very pleasing effect. 
The natives lighted fires, and followed the ship along the coast, 
their numbers increasing at every step. Some had white cloth 
thrown loosely over their shoulders, but by far the greater number 
were naked, with the exception of the maro. 

When the ship had arrived off the N. W. point of the island, 
she was hove-to for the purpose of taking observations ; and a 
boat was lowered to examine the bays, and obtain soundings near 
the shore. Immediately she put off, the natives collected about 
the place where they supposed she would land. The sea broke 
heavily upon the rocks, and some of them apprehending the boat 
would be damaged, waved their cloaks to caution her against mak- 
ing the attempt to land : while others, eager to reach her, plunged 
into the sea, and so surrounded her that she was obliged to put 
about to get rid of them. They all showed a friendly disposition, 
and we began to hope that they had forgotten the unpardonable 



38 VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

conduct of the American master, who carried several of the island- 
ers away by force to colonize Masafuera. 

Immediately the noon observation was obtained, we ran along 
the western side of the island, towards the bay in which Cook and 
Perouse had both anchored. The natives, as before, followed 
along the coast, and lighted fires in different directions, the largest 
of which was opposite the landing place. With a view to ascer- 
tain the feeling of the inhabitants, and, if possible, to establish an 
amicable intercourse with them, I desired Lieutenant Peard to 
proceed with two boats to the shore, and by presents and kindness 
to endeavour to conciliate the people and to bring off what fruit 
and vegetables he could. Lieutenant Wainwright was directed to 
accompany him ; and though I did not apprehend any hostility, 
yet, as a precautionary measure, I armed the boats, and placed two 
marines in each. Their strength was further increased by several 
of the officers, and the naturalist. Thus equipped, they rowed 
for the landing-place in Cook's Bay, while the ship remained at a 
short distance. The islanders were collected in great numbers, 
and were seen running to and fro, exhibiting symptoms of expect*- 
ation and delight. Some few, however, were observed throwing, 
large stones at a mark behind a bank erected near the beach. 

As the boats approached, the anxiety of the natives was mani- 
fested by shouts, which overpowered the voices of the officers : 
and our boats, before they gained the beach, were surrounded by 
hundreds of swimmers, clinging to the gunwale, the stern, and the 
rudder, until they became unmanageable. They all appeared to 
be friendly disposed, and none came empty-handed. Bananas, 
yams, potatoes, sugar-cane, nets, idols, &c. were offered for sale, 
and some were even thrown into the boat, leaving their visiters to 
make what return they chose. Among the swimmers there were 
a great many females, who were equally or more anxious to get 
into the boats than the men, and made use of every persuasion to 
induce the crew to admit them. But to have acceeded to their 
entreaties would have encumbered the party, and subjected them 
to depredations. As it was, the boats were so weighed down by 
persons clinging to them, that for personal safety the crew were 
compelled to have recourse to sticks to keep them off, at which 
none of the natives took offence, but regained their position the 
instant the attention of the persons in the boat was called to some 
other object. Just within the gunwale there were many small 
things which were highly prized by the swimmers ; and the boats 
being brought low in the water by the crowd hanging to them, 
many of these articles were stolen, notwithstanding the most vigi- 
lant attention on the part of the crew, who had no means of re- 



1825.] AND BEERINo's STRAIT. 39 

covering them, the marauders darting into the water, and diving 
the moment they committed a theft. The women were no less 
active in these piracies than the men ; for if they were not the ac- 
tual plunderers, they procured the opportunity for others, by en- 
grossing the attention of the seamen by their caresses and ludi- 
crous gestures. 

In proceeding to the landing-place, the boats had. to pass a small 
isolated rock which rose several feet above the water. As many 
females as could possibly find room crowded upon this eminence, 
pressing together so closely ^ that the rock appeared to be a mass of 
living beings. Of these Nereids three or four would shoot off at 
a time into the water, and swim with the expertness of fish to the 
boats to try their influence on their visiters. One of them, a very 
young girl, and less accustomed to the water than her companions, 
was taken upon the shoulders of an elderly man, conjectured to be 
her father, and was, by him, recommended to the attention of one 
of the officers, who, in compassion, allowed her a- seat in his boat. 
She was young, and exceedingly pretty ; her features were small 
and well made, her eyes dark, and her hair black, long, and flow- 
ing; her colour, deep brunette. She was tattooed in arches upon 
the forehead, and, like the greater part of her countrywomen, from 
the waist downward to the knee in narrow compact blue lineSj 
which at a short distance had the appearance of breeches. Her 
only covering was a small triangular maro, made of grass and 
rushes ; but this diminutive screen not agreeing with her ideas of 
propriety in the novel situation in which she found herself, she 
remedied the defect by unceremoniously appropriating to that use 
a part of one of the officer's apparel, and then commenced a song 
not altogether inharmonious. Far from being jealous of her situ- 
ation, she aided all her countrywomen who aspired to the same 
seat of honour with herself, by dragging them out of the water by 
the hair of the head ; but unkind as it might appear to interfere to 
prevent this, it was necessary to do so, or the boats would have 
been filled and unmanageable. 

As our party passed, the assemblage of females on the rock 
commenced a song, similar to that chaunted by the lady in the boat ; 
and accompanied it by extending their arms over their heads, beat- 
ing their breasts, and performing a variety of gestures, which 
showed that our visit was acceptable, at least to that part of the 
community. When the boats were within wading distance of the' 
shore, they were closely encompassed by the natives ; each bring- 
ing something in his hand, however small, and almost every one 
importuning for an equivalent in return. All those in the water 
were naked, and only here and there, on the shore, a thin cloak of 
native cloth was to be seen. Some had their faces painted black, 



40 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

some red ; others black and white, or red and white, in the ludi- 
crous manner practised by our clown ; and two demon-like mon- 
sters were painted entirely black. It is not easy to imagine the 
picture that was presented by this motley crowd, unrestrained by 
any authority or consideration for their visiters, all hallooing to the 
extent of their lungs, and pressing upon the boats with all sorts of 
grimaces and gestures. 

It was found impossible to land where it was at first intended : 
the boats, therefore, rowed a little to the northward, followed by 
the multitude, and there effected a disembarkation, aided by some 
of the natives, who helped the party over the rocks with one hand, 
while they picked their pockets with the other. It was no easy 
matter to penetrate the dense multitude, and much less practicable 
to pursue a thief through the labyrinth of figures that thronged 
around. The articles stolen were consequently as irretrievably 
lost here, as they were before in the hands of the divers. It is 
extremely difficult on such occasions, to decide which is the best 
line of conduct to adopt : whether to follow Captain Cook's rigid 
maxim of never permitting a theft when clearly ascertained to go 
unpunished ; or to act as Perouse did with the inhabitants of Easter 
Island, and suffer every thing to be stolen without resistance or re- 
monstrance. Perhaps the happy medium of shutting the eyes to 
those it is not necessary to observe, an punishing severely such as 
it is imperative to notice, will prove the wisest policy. 

Among the foremost of the crowd were two men, crowned with 
pelicans' feathers, who, if they were not chiefs, assumed an author- 
ity as such, and with the two demons above-mentioned attempted 
to clear the way by striking at the feet of the mob ; careful, how- 
ever, so to direct their blows, that they should not take effect. 
Without their assistance, it would have been almost impossible to 
land : the mob cared very little for threats : a musket presented 
at them, had no effect beyond the moment it was levelled, and was 
less efficacious than some water thrown upon the bystanders by 
those persons who wished to forward the views of our party. 

The gentleman who disembarked first, and from that circum- 
stance probaby was considered a person of distinction, was escorted 
to the top of the bank and seated upon a large block of lava, 
which was the prescribed limit to the party's advance. An en- 
deavour was then made to form a ring about him ; but it was very 
difficult, on account of the Islanders crowding to the place all in 
expectation of receiving something. The applicants were impa- 
tient, noisy, and urgent : they presented their bags, which they had 
carefully emptied for the purpose, and signified their desire that 
they should be filled : they practised every artifice, and stole what 
they could in the most careless and open manner : some went even 



1825.] and beering's strait. 4! 

farther, and accompanied their demands by threats. About this 
time one of the natives, probably a chief, with a cloak and 
head-dress of feathers, was observed from the ship hastening from 
the huts to the landing-place, attended by several persons with 
short clubs. This hostile appearance, followed by the blowing of 
the conch-shell, a sound which Cook observes he never knew to 
portend good, kept our glasses for a while rivited to the spot. To 
this chief it is supposed, for it was impossible to distinguish amongst 
the crowd, Mr. Peard made a handsome present, with which he 
was very well pleased, and no apprehension of hostilities was en- 
tertained. It happened, however, that the presents were expended 
and this officer was returning to the boat for a fresh supply, when 
the natives, probably mistaking his intentions, became exceedingly 
clamorous, and the confusion was further increased by a marine 
endeavouring to regain his cap, which had been snatched from his 
head. The natives took advantage of the confusion, and redoubled 
their endeavours to pilfer, which our party were at last obliged to 
repel by threats, and sometimes by force. At length they became 
so audacious that there was no longer any doubt of their intentions, 
or that a system of open plunder had commenced ; which, with 
the appearance of clubs and sticks, and the departure of the wo- 
men, induced Mr. Peard, very judiciously, to order his party into 
the boats. This seemed to be the signal for an assault : the chief 
who had received the present threw a large stone, which struck 
Mr. Peard forcibly upon the back, and was immediately followed 
by a shower of missiles which darkened the air. The natives in 
the water and about the boats instantly withdrew to their comrades, 
who had run behind a bank out of the reach of the muskets, which 
former experience alone could have taught them to fear, for none 
had yet been fired by us. 

The stones, each of which weighed about a pound, fell incredi- 
bly thick, and with such precision that several of the seamen were 
knocked down under the thwarts of the boat, and every person 
was more or less wounded, except the female to whom Lieutenant 
Wain wright had given protection, who, as if aware of the skilful- 
ness of her countrymen, sat unconcerned upon the gunwale, until 
one of the officers, with more consideration for her safety than she 
herself possessed, pushed her overboard, and she swam ashore. 
A blank cartridge was at first fired over the heads of the crowd ; 
but forbearance, which with savages is generally mistaken for cow- 
ardice or inability, only augmented their fury. The showers of 
stones were if possible increased, until the personal safety of all 
rendered it necessary to resort to severe measures. The chief, 
still urging the islanders on, very deservedly, and perhaps fortu- 
nately, fell a victim -to the "first shot that was fired in defence, 

vol. i. 6 



42 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [NoV. 

Terrified by this example, the natives kept closer under their bul- 
wark ; and though they continued to throw stones, and occasioned 
considerable difficulty in extricating the boats, their attacks were 
not so effectual as before, nor sufficient to prevent the embarkation 
of the crew, all of whom were got on board. 

Several dangerous contusions were received in the affair, but 
fortunately no lives were lost on our part ; and it was the opinion 
of the officer commanding the party, that the treacherous chief was 
the only victim on that of the islanders, though some of the officers 
thought they observed another man fall. Considering the manner 
in which the party were surrounded, and the imminent risk to 
which they were exposed, it is extraordinary that so few of the na- 
tives suffered ; and the greatest credit is due to the officers and 
crews of both boats for their forbearance on the occasion. 

After this unfortunate and unexpected termination ftKour inter- 
view, I determined upon quitting the island, as nothing of import- 
ance was to be gained by remaining, which could be put in compe- 
tition with the probable loss of lives that might attend an attempt 
at reconciliation. The disappointment it occasioned was great to 
us, who had promised ourselves much novelty and enjoyment ; 
but the loss to the public is trifling, as the island has been very 
well described by Roggewein, Cook, Perouse, Kotzebue, and oth- 
ers, and the people appeared, in all material points, the same now 
as these authors have painted them. With regard to supplies, 
nothing was to be gained by staying ; for after Cook had traversed 
the island, he came to the conclusion that few places afford less 
convenience for shipping. " As every thing must be raised by dint 
of labour, it cannot be supposed the inhabitants plant much more 
than is sufficient for themselves ; and as they are few in number, 
they cannot have much to spare to supply the wants of strangers." 
The population of Easter Island has been variously stated : 
Roggewein declares several thousands surrounded the boats : Cook 
reckoned it six or seven hundred ; Mr. Forster, who was with him, 
at nine hundred ; M. la Perouse, at two thousand : my officers es- 
timated it at about fifteen hundred. If a mean of these be taken, 
it will leave 1260, which is, perhaps near the truth ; for it may be 
presumed, that in an island of such limited extent, and which does 
not increase its productions or personal comforts, and where sexual 
intercourse is unrestrained, the population will remain much the 
same. 

One of the authors of Roggewein's Voyage represents the in- 
habitants of this island as giants, which, if his assertion be true, 
makes it evident that, like the Patagonians, they have degenerated 
very rapidly. Cook remarks that he did not see a man that would 
measure 6 feet ; and our estimate of the average height of the 



1825. J and beering's strait. 43 

people was 5 feet 7 1-2 inches. They are a handsome race, the 
women in particular. The fine oval countenances and regular fea- 
tures of the men, the smooth, high-rounded foreheads, the rather 
small and somewhat sunken dark eye, and the even rows of ivory- 
white teeth, impressed us with the similarity of their features to the 
heads brought from New Zealand. The colour of their skin is 
lighter than that of the Malays. The general contour of the body 
is good : the limbs are not remarkable for muscularity, but formed 
more for activity than strength. The hair is jet black, and worn 
moderately short. One man of about fifty years of age, the only 
exception that was noticed, had his hair over the forehead of a 
reddish-ash gray. The beards of such as had any were black ; 
but many had none, or only a few hairs on the chin. None of the 
men had whiskers, which seemed to be rather a subject of regret 
with them, and they appeared envious of such of our party as had 
them, who were obliged to submit to the ordeal of having them 
stroked and twisted about for the admiration and amusement of 
their new acquaintances. - Both sexes still retain the hideous prac- 
tice of peforating the lobes of the ears, though the custom is not 
so general with the men as formerly. The aperture, when distend- 
ed, which is done by a leaf rolled up and forced through it, is about 
an inch and a quarter in diameter. The lobe, deprived of its ear- 
ring, hangs dangling against the neck, and has a very disagreeable 
appearance, particularly when wet. It is sometimes so long as to 
be greatly in the way ; to obviate which, they pass the lobe over 
the upper part of the ear, or more rarely, fasten one lobe to the 
other, at the back of the head. The lips, when closed, form 
nearly a line, showing very little of the fleshy part, and giving a 
character of resolution to the countenance. The nose is aquiline 
and well-proportioned ; the eyes small and dark brown or black ; 
the chin small and rather prominent ; and the tongue dispropor- 
tionably large, and, on its upper surface, of a diseased white ap- 
pearance. 

Tattooing or puncturing the skin is here practised to a greater 
extent than formerly, especially by the females, who have stained 
their skin in imitation of blue breeches ; copied, no doubt, from 
some of their visiters, who frequently tuck up their trowsers to the 
knee in passing through the water. The deception, which, at a 
short distance, completely deceives the eye, is produced by a suc- 
cession of small blue lines, beginning at the waist and extending 
downward to the knee. Besides this, some of them tattoo their 
foreheads in arched lines, as well as the edges of their ears and the 
fleshy part of their lips. The males tattoo themselves in curved 
lines of a dark Berlin blue colour upon the upper part of the 
throat, beginning at the ear, and sloping round below the under 



44 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [NoV. 

jaw. The face is sometimes nearly covered with lines similar to 
those on the throat, or with an uninterrupted colouring, excepting 
two broad stripes on each side, at right angles to each other. Most 
of their lips were also stained. Others had different parts of their 
bodies variously marked, but in the greater number it was confined 
to a small space. All the lines were drawn with much taste, and 
carried in the direction of the muscle in a manner very similar to 
the New Zealanders. These people have had so little communi- 
cation with Europeans, or have benefitted so little by it, that we 
did not perceive any European cloth among them ; and the cloth 
mulberry-tree, which grows upon their island, produces so small a 
supply, that part of the inhabitants necessarily go naked : the larger 
portion however wear a maro, made either of fine Indian cloth of 
reddish colour, of a wild kind of parsley, or of a species of sea- 
weed. 

Their weapons are short clubs of a flattened oval form, tapering 
toward the handle, and a little curved. The straw hats mentioned 
both by Cook and Perouse appeared to be no longer used. One 
man only had his head covered ; and that with a tattered felt hat, 
which he must have obtained from some former visiters. A ram- 
rod, which had probably been procured in the same way, was also 
seen among them. We noticed three boats hauled up on the shore 
to the northward of the landing-place, resembling the drawing in 
Perouse's Voyage, but the natives did not attempt to launch them. 

Roggewein and Perouse were of opinion that these people lived 
together in communities, a whole village inhabiting one extensive 
hut, and that property was in common. The former idea was sug- 
gested by the very capacious dwellings which are scattered over 
the island ; and the conjecture may be correct, though it is certain 
that there are a far greater number of small huts, sufficient to con- 
tain one family only ; but with regard to the supposition that prop- 
erty is common, it seems very doubtful whether the land would be 
so carefully divided by rows of stones if that were the case. Some 
circumstances which occurred at the landing-place, during our visit, 
certainly favoured the presumption of its being so. One of the 
natives offered an image for sale, and being disappointed in the 
price he expected, refused to part with it ; but a by-stander, less 
scrupulous, snatched it from him without ceremony, and parted 
with it for the original offer without a word of remonstrance from 
his countryman. Others again threw their property into the boats, 
without demanding any immediate return ; taking for granted, it 
may be presumed, that they would reap their reward when a dis- 
tribution of the property obtained should take place. But this 
state of society is so unnatural that, however appearances may 
sanction the belief, I am disposed to doubt it. One strong fact in 



1S25.] and beering's strait, 45 

support of my opinion was the unceremonious manner in which the 
apparent proprietor of a piece of ground planted with potatoes 
drove away the mob, who, with very little consideration for the 
owner, were taking the crop out of the earth to barter with our 
party. 

The island, though situated nearer the Continent of America than 
any other of the archipelago to which it belongs, has been less fre- 
quently visited ; and unfortunately for its inhabitants, some of those 
visits have rather tended to retard than to advance its prosperity, or 
improve its moral condition ; and they afford a striking example of 
an extensive intercourse with mankind, before a limited community 
can emerge from barbarism to a state of civilization. One consola- 
tion for this privation is their exemption from those complaints by 
which some of the ill-fated natives of these seas have so dreadfully 
suffered. 

The gigantic busts which excited the surprise of the first visiters 
to the island, have suffered so much either from the effects of time, 
or maltreatment of the natives, that the existence of any of them at 
present is questionable. At first they were dispersed generally over 
the whole island : when Cook visited it, there were but two on the 
western side near the landing-place : Kotzebue found only a square 
pedestal in the same place : and now a few heaps of rubbish only, oc- 
cupy a spot where it is doubtful whether one of them was erected or 
not. When it is considered how great must have been the labour 
bestowed upon these images before they were hewn from the quar- 
ries with the rude stone implements of the Indians, and before such 
huge masses of rock could be transported to, and erected on, so 
many parts of the island, it is nearly positive that they were actua- 
ted by religious motives in their construction ; and yet, if it were so, 
why were these objects of adoration suffered to go to decay by suc- 
ceeding generations ? Is it that the religious forms of the islanders 
have changed, or that the aborigines have died off, and been suc- 
ceeded by a new race ? — Pitcairn Island affords a curious example 
of a race of men settling upon an island, erecting stone images upon 
its heights, and either becoming extinct or having abandoned it; and 
some circumstances connected with Easter Island occur independent 
of that above alluded to, in favour of the presumption that the same 
thing may also have taken place there. The most remarkable of 
these facts is, that the present generation are so nearly allied in lan- 
guage and customs to many islands in the South Sea, as to leave 
no doubt of their having migrated from some of them, — and yet in 
none of these places are there images of such extraordinary dimen- 
sions, or indeed in any way resembling them. The Easter Islanders 
have, besides, small wooden deities similar to those used by the in- 
habitants of the other islands just mentioned. 



46 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

That there had been recent migrations from some of the islands 
to the westward, about Roggewein's time, may be inferred from the 
natives having recognised the animals on board his ship, and from 
their having hogs tattooed upon their arms and breasts ; whereas 
there was not a quadruped upon the island at the time, nor has any 
one except the rat ever been seen there. Another curious fact 
connected with this island is, that when it was first discovered it 
abounded in woods and forests, and palm branches were presented 
as emblems of peace ; but fifty years afterwards, when visited by 
Captain Cook, there were no traces of them left. The revolution 
that has taken place in La Dominica, one of the Marquesa Islands, 
affords another instance of this kind : when first visited by Mendana, 
in 1595, it exhibited an enchanting aspect: "vast plains displayed 
a smiling verdure, and divided hills, crowned with tufted woods," 
Sic. : but in 1774 it was found by Captain Cook to have so com- 
pletely altered its features, that Marchand ascribes the change to 
one of those great "convulsions of nature, which totally disfigure 
every part of the surface of the globe, over which its ravages extend." 
Easter Island is studded with volcanos, and an eruption may have 
driven the natives into the sea) or have so torn up the soil and veg- 
etation, that they could no longer subsist upon it. 

I cannot say a word on the success that attended the humane ef- 
forts of the much-lamented Perouse, who planted many useful fruit 
trees and seeds upon the island ; but there is every reason to be- 
lieve they have perished, or shared the fate of the vines at Otaheite, 
as they brought us no fruits or roots beyond what he found there on 
his arrival. Perhaps a tuft of trees in a sheltered spot at the back 
of Cook's Bay, which had the appearance of orange-trees, are the 
offspring of his benevolent care and attention. Cook had no op- 
portunity of benefiting the islanders in this way ; but he planted in 
them a warm and friendly feeling towards strangers, and his usual 
rectitude and generous treatment taught them a lesson of which Pe- 
rouse felt the good effects, and which possibly might have existed 
until now, but for the interference of a few unprincipled masters of 
vessels, who have unfortunately found their way to the island ; and 
I fear these communications are more frequent than is generally 
supposed. 

The island is 2000 miles from the coast of Chili, and 1500 from 
the nearest inhabited islands, Pitcairn Island excepted, which has 
been peopled by Europeans. A curious inquiry therefore suggests 
itself: in what manner has so small a place, and so distantly situat- 
ed from any other, received its population ? particularly as every 
thing favours the probability of its inhabitants having migrated from 
the westward, in opposition to the prevalent wind and current. 
Captain Cook obtained considerable knowledge upon this subject at 



1825.] AND BEERINC.'S STRAIT. 47 

Wateo ; and I shall hereafter be able to offer something in support 
of the theory entertained by that celebrated navigator. 

Cook and Perouse differ in a very trifling degree from each oth- 
er, and also from us in the geographical position of Easter Island. 
The longitude by Cook is 109° 46' 20" W., and deducting 18' 30", 
in consequence of certain corrections made at Fetegu Island, 
leaves 109° 27' 50"W. That by Perouse, allowing the longitude 
of Conception to be 72° 56' 30"W., is 109° 32' 10 "W. ; and our 
own is 109°24' 54"W. The island is of a triangular shape : its 
length is exactly nine miles from N. W, to S. E., nine and three 
quarters from W. N. W. to E. S. E., and thirteen from N. E. to 
S. W. The highest part of it isl200 feet, and in clear weather it 
may be seen at sixteen or eighteen leagues distance. The geo- 
graphical description by M. Bernizet, who was engineer in the As- 
trolabe, is exact : the views of the land are a little caricatured, but 
the angular measurments are perfectly correct. Further remarks 
on the coast and anchorage will be found in the Nauctical Memoir. 

We quitted Easter Island with a fresh N. E. wind, and bore 
away for the next island placed upon the chart. On the 19th, dur- 
ing a calm, some experiments were made on the temperature of 
the water at different depths. As the line was hauling in, a large 
sword-fish bit at the tin case which contained our thermometer, but, 
fortunately, he failed in carrying it off. On the 27th, in lat. 25° 
36' S., long. 115° 06' W., many sea-birds were seen ; but there 
was no other indication of land. From the time of our quitting 
Easter Island, light and variable winds greatly retarded the pro- 
gress of the ship, until the 24th, in lat. 26° 20' S., and long. 116° 
30' W., when we got the regular trade-wind, and speedily gained 
the parallel of Ducie's Island, which it was my intention to pur- 
sue, that the island might by no possibility be passed. In the fore- 
noon of the 28th we saw a great many gulls and tern ; and at half- 
past three in the afternoon the island was descried right a-head. 
We stood on until sunset, and shortened sail within three or four 
miles to windward of it. 

Ducie's Island is of coral formation, of an oval form, with a la- 
goon or lake, in the centre, which is partly inclosed by trees, and 
partly by low coral flats scarcely above the water's edge. The 
height of the soil upon the island is about twelve feet, above which 
trees rise about fourteen more, making its greatest elevation about 
twenty-six feet from the level of the sea. The lagoon appears to 
be deep, and has the entrance into it for a boat, when the water is 
sufficiently smooth to admit of passing over the bar. It is situated 
at the south-east extremity, to the right of two eminences that 
have the appearance of sand-hills. The island lies in a north-east 
and south-west direction, is one mile and three quarters long, and 



48 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

one mile wide. No living things, birds excepted, were seen upon 
the island ; but its environs appeared to abound in fish, and sharks 
were very numerous. The water was so clear over the coral, that 
the bottom was distinctly seen when no soundings could be had 
with thirty fathoms of iine ; in twenty four fathoms, the shape of 
the rock at the bottom was clearly distinguished. The coral-lines 
were of various colours, principally white, sulphur, and lilac, and 
formed into all manner of shapes, giving a lively and variegated 
appearance to the bottom ; but they soon lost their colour after 
being detached. 

By the soundings round this little island, it appeared, for a cer- 
tain distance, to take the shape of a truncated cone having its base 
downwards. The north-eastern and south-western extremities are 
furnished with points which project under water with less inclination 
than the sides of the island, and break the sea before it can reach 
the barrier to the little lagoon formed within. It is singular that 
these butresses are opposed to the only two quarters whence their 
structure has to apprehend danger ; that on the north-east, from 
the constant action of the trade-wind, and that on the other ex- 
tremity, from the long rolling swell from the south-west, so preva- 
lent in these latitudes ; and it is worthy of observation, that this 
barrier, which has the most powerful enemy to oppose, is carried 
out much farther, and with less abruptness than the other. 

The sand-mounds raised upon the barrier are confined to the 
eastern and north-western sides of the lagoon, the south-western 
part being left low, and broken by a channel of water. On the 
rocky surface of the causeway, between the lake and the sea, lies 
a stratum of dark rounded particles, probably coral, and above it 
another, apparently composed of decayed vegetable substances. 
A variety of ever green trees take root in this bank, and form a 
canopy almost impenetrable to the sun's rays, and present to the 
eye a grove of the the liveliest green. 

As soon as we had finished our observations on Ducie's Island, 
and completed a plan of it, we made sail to the westward. The 
island soon neared the horizon, and when seven miles distant 
ceased to be visible from the deck. For several days afterwards 
the winds were so light, that we made but slow progress ; and as 
we lay-to every night, in order that nothing might be passed in the 
dark, our daily run was trifling. On the 30th, we saw a great 
number of white tern, which at sunset directed their flight to the 
N. W. At noon on the 2d of December, flocks of gulls and tern 
indicated the vicinity of land, which a few hours afterwards was 
seen from the mast-head at a considerable distance. At daylight 
on the 3rd, we closed with its south-western end, and despatched 
two boats to make the circuit of the island, while the ship ranged 



1825.] and beering's strait. 49 

its northern shore at a short distance, and waited for them off a 
sandy hay at its nort-west extremity. 

We found that the island differed essentially from all others in 
its vicinity, and belonged to a peculiar formation, very few instan- 
ces of which are in existence. Wateo and Savage Islands, discov- 
ered by Captain Cook, are of this number, and perhaps also Mai- 
den Island, visited by Lord Byron in the Blonde. The island is 
five miles in length, and one in breadth, and has a flat surface nearly 
eighty feet above the sea. On all sides, except the north, it is 
bounded by perpendicular cliffs about fifty feet high, composed en- 
tirely of dead coral, more or less porous, honeycombed at the sur- 
face, and hardening into a compact calcareous substance within, 
possessing the fracture of secondary limestone, and has a species 
of millepore interspersed through it. These cliffs are considerably 
undermined by the action of the waves, and some of them appear 
on the eve of precipitating their superincumbent weight into the 
sea ; those which are less injured in this way present no alternate 
ridges or indication of the different levels, which the sea might have 
occupied at different periods, but a smooth surface, as if the 
island, which there is every probability has been raised by vol- 
canic agency, had been forced up by one great subterraneous 
convulsion. The dead coral, of which the higher part of the isl- 
and consists, is nearly circumscribed by ledges of living coral, which 
project beyond each other at different depths ; on the northern side 
of the island the first of these had an easy slope from the beach to 
a distance of about fifty yards, when it terminated abruptly about 
three fathoms under water. The next ledge had a greater descent 
and extended to two hundred yards from the beach, with twenty- 
five fathoms water over it, and there ended as abruptly as the 
former, a short distance beyond which no bottom could be gained 
with 200 fathoms of line. Numerous echini live upon these ledges, 
and a variety of richly coloured fish play over their surface, while 
some cray-fish inhabit the deeper sinuosities. The sea rolls in suc- 
cessive breakers over these ledges of coral, and renders landing 
upon them extremely difficult. It may, however, be effected by 
anchoring the boat, and veering her close into the surf, and then, 
watching the opportunity, by jumping upon the ledge, and hasten- 
ing to the shore before the succeeding roller approaches. In doing 
this great caution must be observed, as the reef is full of holes and 
caverns, and the rugged way is strewed with sea-eggs, which inflict 
very painful wounds ; and if a person fall into one of these hol- 
lows, his life will be greatly endangered by the points of coraJ 
catching his clothes and detaining him under water. The beach, 
which appears at a distance to be composed of a beautiful white 
sand, is wholly made up of small broken portions of the different 

vol. i. 7 



50 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

species and varieties of coral, intermixed with shells of testaceous 
and crustaceous animals. 

Insignificant as this island is in height, compared with others, it 
is extremely difficult to gain the summit, in consequence of the 
thickly interlacing shrubs which grow upon it, and form so dense a 
covering, that it is impossible to see the cavities in the rock beneath. 
They are at the same time too fragile to afford any support, and the 
traveller often sinks into the cavity up to his shoulder before his 
feet reach the bottom. The soil is a black mould of little depth, 
wholly formed of decayed vegetable matter, through which points 
of coral every now and then project. 

The largest tree upon the island is the pandanus, though there is 
another tree very common, nearly of the same size, the wood of 
which has a great resemblance to common ash, and possesses the 
same properties. We remarked also a species of budleia, which 
was nearly as large and as common, bearing fruit. It affords but little 
wood, and has a reddish bark of considerable astringency : several 
species of this genus are to be met with among the Society Islands. 
There is likewise a long slender plant with a stem about an inch in 
diameter, bearing a beautiful pink flower, of the class and order 
hexandria monogynia. We saw no esculent roots, and, with the 
exception of the pandanus, no tree that bore fruit fit to eat. 

This island, which on our charts bears the name of Elizabeth, 
ought properly to be called Hendersoii's Island, as it was first nam- 
ed by Captain Henderson of the Hercules of Calcutta. Both 
these vessels visited it, and each supposing it was a new discovery, 
claimed the merit of it on her arrival the next day at Pitcairn Isl- 
and, these two places lying close together. But the Hercules pre- 
ceded the former several months. To neither of these vessels, 
however, is the discovery of the land in question to be attributed, 
as it was first seen by the crew of the Essex, an American whaler, 
who accidentally fell in with it after the loss of their vessel. Two 
of her seamen, preferring the chance of finding subsistence on this 
desolate spot to risking their. lives in an open boat across the wide 
expanse which lies between it and the coast of Chili, were at their 
own desire, left behind. They were afterwards taken off by an 
English whaler that heard of their disaster at Valparaiso from then- 
surviving shipmates.* 

* The extraordinary fate of the Essex has heen recorded in a pamphlet published 
in New York by the mate of that vessel, but of the veracity of which every person 
must consult his own judgment. As all my readers may not be in possession of it, 
I shall briefly state that it describes the Essex to have been in the act of catching 
whales, when one of these animals became enraged, and attacked the vessel by 
swimming against it with all its strength. The steersman, it is said, endeavoured 
to evade the shock by managing the helm, but in vain. The third blow stove in 
the bows of the ship, and she went down in a very short time, even before some of 



1825. j AND BEEKINO's STRAIT. 51 

It appears from their narrative that the island possessed no 
spring ; and that the two men procured a supply of water at a 
small pool which received the drainings from the upper part of the 
island, and was just sufficient for their daily consumption. 

In the evening we bore away to the westward, and at one 
o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of December we saw Pitcairn 
Island bearing S. W. by W. h W. at a considerable distance. 

the boats that were away had time to get on board. Such of the crew as were in 
the ship contrived to save themselves in the boats that were near, and were soon 
joined by their astonished shipmates, who could not account for the sudden disap- 
pearance of their vessel ; but found themselves unprovided with every thing neces- 
sary for a sea-voyage, and several thousand miles from any place whence they could 
hope for relief. The boats, after the catastrophe, determined to proceed to Chili, 
touching at Ducie's Island in their way. They steered to the southward, and after 
considerable sufferings, landed upon an island which they supposed to be that 
above-mentioned, but which was, in fact, Elizabeth Island. Not being able to pro- 
cure any water here, they continued their voyage to the coast of Chili, where two 
boats out of the three arrived, but with only three or four persons in them. The 
third was never heard of ; but it is not improbable that the wreck of a boat and 
four skeletons which were seen on Ducie's Island, by a merchant vessel, were her 
remains and that of her crew. - Had these unfortunate persons been aware of the 
situation of Pitcairn Island, which is only ninety miles from Elizabeth Island, and 
to leward of it, all their lives might have been saved. 



52- VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec, 



CHAPTER III. 



Pitcairn Island — Adams and Natives come off to the Ship — Adams' Account of the 
Mutiny of the Bounty— Lieutenant Bligh sent adrift in the Launch — Mutineers 
proceed to Tobouai — Hostile reception there— Proceed to Otaheite — Return to 
Tobouai — Again quit it and return to Otaheite — Christian determines to proceed 
to Pitcairn Island — Lands there — Fate of the Ship — Insurrection among the 
blacks — Murder of Christian and four of the mutineers — Adams dangerously 
wounded- — Fate of the remaining number. 

The interest which was excited by the announcement of Pit- 
cairn Island from the mast-head brought every person upon deck, 
and produced a train of reflections that momentarily increased our 
anxiety to communicate with its inhabitants ; to see and partake of 
the pleasures of their little domestic circle ; and to learn from them 
the particulars of every transaction connected with the fate of the 
Bounty : but in consequence of the approach of night this gratifi- 
cation was deferred until the next morning, when, as we wetfe 
steering for the side of the island on which Captain Carteret has 
marked soundings, in the hope of being able to anchor the ship, 
we had the pleasure to see a boat under sail hastening toward us. 
At first the complete equipment of this boat raised a doubt as to 
its being the property of the islanders, for we expected to see only 
a well-provided canoe in their possession, and we therefore conclud- 
ed that the boat must belong to some whale-ship on the opposite 
side ; but we were soon agreeably undeceived by the singular ap- 
pearance of her crew, which consisted of old Adams and all the 
young men of the island. 

Before they ventured to take hold of the ship, they inquired if 
they might come on board, and upon permission being granted, 
they sprang up the side and shook every officer by the hand with 
undisguised feelings of gratification. 

The activity of the young men exceeded that of old Adams, 
who was consequently almost the last to greet us. He was in his 
sixty-fifth year, and was unusually strong and active for his age, 
notwithstanding the inconvenience of considerable corpulency. 
He was dressed in a sailor's shirt and trousers and a low-crowned 
hat, which he instinctively held in his hand until desired to put it 
on. He still retained his sailor's gait, doffing his hat and smooth- 



J825. j and beering's strait, 53 

ing down his bald forehead whenever he was addressed by the 
oiiicers. 

It was the first time he had been on board a ship of war since 
the mutiny, and his mind naturally reverted to scenes that could 
not fail to produce a temporary embarrassment, heightened, per- 
haps, by the familiarity with which he found himself addressed by 
persons of a class with those whom he had been accustomed to 
obey. Apprehension for his safety formed no part of his thoughts : 
he had received too many demonstrations of the good feeling that 
existed towards him, both on the part of the British government 
and of individuals, to entertain any alarm on that head ; and as ev- 
ery person endeavoured to set his mind at rest, he very soon made 
himself at home.* 

The young men, ten in number, were tall, robust, and healthy, 
with good-natured countenances, which would any where have pro- 
cured them a friendly reception ; and with a simplicity of manner 
and a fear of doing wrong, which at once prevented the possibility 
of giving offence. Unacquainted with the world, they asked a 
number of questions which would have applied better to persons 
with whom they had been intimate, and who had left them but a 
short time before, than to perfect strangers ; and inquired after 
ships and people we had never heard of. Their dress, made up 
of the presents which had been given them by the masters and 
seamen of merchant ships, w T as a perfect caricature. Some had 
on long black coats without any other article of dress except 
trousers, some shirts without coats, and others waistcoats without 
either; none had shoes or stockings, and only two possessed hats, 
neither of which seemed likely to hang long together. 

They were as anxious to gratify their curiosity about the decks, as 
we were to learn from them the state of the colony, and the par- 
ticulars of the fate of the mutineers who had settled upon the 
island, which had been variously related by occasional visiters ; 
and we were more especially desirous of obtaining Adams' own 
narrative ; for it was peculiarly interesting to learn from one who 
had been implicated in the mutiny, the facts of that transaction, 
now that he considered himself exempt from the penalties of his 
crime. 

I trust that, in renewing the discussion of this affair, I shall not 
be considered as unnecessarily wounding the feelings of the friends 
of any of the parties concerned ; but it is satisfactory to show, that 
those who suffered by the sentence of the court-martial were con- 
victed upon evidence which is now corroborated by the statement 

* Since the MS. of this narrative was sent to press, intelligence of Adams' death 
has been communicated to me by our Consul at the Sandwich Islands. 



54 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

of an accomplice who has no motive for concealing the truth. The 
following account is compiled almost entirely from Adams' narra- 
tive, signed with his own hand. But to render the narrative more 
complete, I have added such additional facts as were derived from 
the inhabitants, who are perfectly acquainted with every incident 
connected with the transaction. In presenting it to the public, I 
vouch, only, for its being a correct statement of the above-men- 
tioned authorities. 

His Majesty's ship Bounty was purchased into the service, and 
placed under the command of Lieutenant Bligh in 1787. She 
left England in December of that year, with orders to proceed to 
Otaheite,* and transport the bread fruit of that country to the 
British Settlements in the West Indies, and to bring also some 
specimens of it to England. Her crew consisted of forty-four per- 
sons, and a gardener. She was ordered to make the passage round 
Cape Horn, but after contending a long time with adverse gales, 
in extremely cold weather, she was obliged to bear away for the 
Cape of Good Hope, where she underwent a refit, and arrived at 
her destination in October 1788. Six months were spent at Ota- 
heite, collecting and stowing away the fruit, during which time the 
officers and seamen had free access to the shore, and made many 
friends, though only one of the seamen formed any alliance there. 

In April 1789, they took leave of their friends at Otaheite, and 
proceeded to Anamooka, where Lieutenant Bligh replenished his 
stock of water, and took on board hogs, fruit, vegetables, &c, and 
put to sea again on the 26th of the same month. Throughout the 
voyage Mr. Bligh had repeated misunderstandings with his officers, 
and had on several occasions given them and the ship's company 
just reasons for complaint. Still, whatever might have been the 
feelings of the officers, Adams declares there was no real discon- 
tent among the crew ; much less was there any idea of offering 
violence to their commander. The officers, it must be admitted, 
had much more cause for dissatisfaction than the seamen, especially 
the master and Mr. Christian. The latter was a protege of Lieu- 
tenant Bligh, and unfortunately was under some obligations to him 
of a pecuniary nature, of which Bligh frequently reminded him 
when any difference arose. Christian, excessively annoyed at the 
share of blame which repeatedly fell to his lot, in common with the 
rest of the officers, could ill endure the additional taunt of private 
obligations ; and in a moment of excitation told his commander 
that sooner or later a day of reckoning would arrive. 

The day previous to the mutiny a serious quarrel occurred be- 

* This word has since been spelled Tahiti, but as I have a veneration for the 
name as it is written in the celebrated Voyages of Captain Cook — a feeling in which 
I am sure I am not singular — I shall adhere to his orthography. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 55 

tween Bligh and his officers, about some cocoa-nuts which were 
missed from his private stock ; and Christian again fell under his 
commander's displeasure. The same evening he was invited to 
supper in the cabin, but he had not so soon forgotten his injuries as 
to accept of this ill-timed civility, and returned an excuse. 

Matters were in this state on the 28th of April 1789, when the 
Bounty, on her homeward voyage, was passing to the southward of 
Tofoa, one of the Friendly Islands. It was one of those beautiful 
nights which characterize the tropical regions, when the mildness 
of the air and the stillness of nature dispose the mind to reflection. 
Christian, pondering over his grievances, considered them so intol- 
erable, that any thing appeared preferable to enduring them, and 
he determined, as he could not redress them, that he would at least 
escape from the possibility of their being increased. Absence from 
England, and a long residence at Otaheite, where new connexions 
were formed, weakened the recollection of his native country, and 
prepared his mind for the reception of ideas which the situation of 
the ship and the serenity of the moment particularly favoured. 
His plan, strange as it must appear for a young officer to adopt, 
who was fairly advanced in an honourable profession, was to set 
himself adrift upon a raft, and make his way to the island then in 
sight. As quick in the execution as in the design, the raft was 
soon constructed, various useful articles were got together, and he 
was on the point of launching it, when a young officer, who after- 
wards perished in the Pandora, to whom Christian communicated 
his intention, recommended him, rather than risk his life on so haz- 
ardous an expedition, to endeavour to take possession of the ship, 
which he thought would not be very difficult, as many of the ship's 
company were not well disposed towards the commander, and 
would all be very glad to return to Otaheite, and reside among 
their friends in that island. This daring proposition is even more 
extraordinary than the premeditated scheme of his companion, 
and, if true, certainly relieves Christian from part of the odium 
which has hitherto attached to him as the sole instigator of the 
mutiny.* 

It however accorded too well with the disposition of Christian's 
mind, and, hazardous as it was, he determined to co-operate with 
his friend in effecting it, resolving, if he failed, to throw himself 
into the sea ; and that there might be no chance of being saved, 
he tied a deep sea lead about his neck, and concealed it within his 
clothes. 

* This account, however, differs materially from a note in Marshall's Naval Biog- 
raphy, Vol. ii. Part ii. p. 778 : unfortunately this volume was not published when 
the Blossom left England, or more satisfactory evidence on this, and other points, 
might have been obtained. However, this is the statement of Adams. 



56 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

Christian happened to have the morning watch, and as soon as 
he had relieved the officer of the deck, he entered into conversa- 
tion with Quintal, the only one of the seamen who, Adams said, 
had formed any serious attachment at Otaheite ; and after expatia- 
ting on the happy hours they had passed there, disclosed his inten- 
tions. Quintal, after some consideration, said he thought it a dan- 
gerous attempt, and declined taking a part. Vexed at a repulse 
in a quarter where he was most sanguine of success, and particu- 
larly at having revealed sentiments which if .made known would 
bring him to an ignominious death, Christian became desperate, ex- 
hibited the lead about his neck in testimony of his own resolution, 
and taxed Quintal with cowardice, declaring it was fear alone that 
restrained him. Quintal denied this accusation ; and in reply to 
Christian's further argument that success would restore them all to 
the happy island, and the connexions they had left behind, the 
strongest persuasion he could have used to a mind somewhat pre- 
pared to acquiesce, he recommended that some one else should be 
tried — Isaac Martin for instance, who was standing by. Martin, 
more ready than his shipmate, emphatically declared, " He was 
for it ; it was the very thing." Successful in one instance, Chris- 
tian went to every man of his watch, many of whom he found dis- 
posed to join him, and before daylight the greater portion of the 
ship's company were brought over. 

Adams was sleeping in his hammock, when Sumner, one of the 
seamen, came to him, and whispered that Christian was going to 
take the ship from her commander, and set him and the master on 
shore. On hearing this, Adams went upon deck, and found every 
thing in great confusion ; but not then liking to take any part in 
the transaction, he returned to his hammock, and remained there 
until he saw Christian at the arm-chest, distributing arms to all 
who came for them ; and then seeing measures had proceeded so 
far, and apprehensive of being on the weaker side, he turned out 
again and went for a cutlass. 

All those who proposed to assist Christian being armed, Adams, 
with others, were ordered to secure the officers, while Christian 
and the master-at-arms proceeded to the cabin to make a prisoner 
of Lieutenant Bligh. They seized him in his cot, bound his hands 
behind him, and brought him upon deck. He remonstrated with 
them on their conduct, but received only abuse in return, and a 
blow from the master-at-arms with the flat side of a cutlass. He 
was placed near the binnacle, and detained there, with his arms 
pinioned, by Christian, who held him with one hand, and a bayonet 
with the other. As soon as the lieutenant was secured, the senti- 
nels that had been placed over the doors of the officers' cabins 
were taken off; the master then jumped upon the forecastle, and 



1825.] and beering's strait. 57 

endeavoured to form a party to retake the ship ; but he was quick- 
ly secured, and sent below in confinement. 

This conduct of the master, who was the only officer that tried 
to bring the mutineers to a sense of their duty, was the more highly 
creditable to him, as he had the greatest cause for discontent, Mr. 
Bligh having been more severe to him than to any of the other 
officers. 

About this time a dispute arose, whether the lieutenant and his 
party, whom the mutineers resolved to set adrift, should have the 
launch or the cutter; and it being decided in favour of the launch, 
Christian ordered her to be hoisted out. Martin, who, it may be 
remembered, was the first convert to Christian's plan, foreseeing 
that with the aid of so large a boat the party would find their way 
to England, and that their information would in all probability lead 
to the detection of the offenders, relinquished his first intention, 
and exclaimed, "If you give him the launch, I will go with him; 
you may as well give him the ship." He really appears to have 
been in earnest in making this declaration, as he was afterwards 
ordered to the gangway from his post of command over the lieu- 
tenant, in consequence of having fed him with a shaddock, and ex- 
changed looks with him indicative of his friendly intentions. It 
also fell to the lot of Adams to guard the lieutenant, who observ- 
ing him stationed by his side, exclaimed, " And you, Smith, are 
you against me ?■"* To which Adams replied that he only acted as 
the others did — he must be like the rest. Lieutenant Bligh, while 
thus secured, reproached Christian with ingratitude, reminded him 
of his obligations to him, and begged he would recollect he had a 
wife and family. To which Christian replied, that he should have 
thought of that before. 

The launch was by this time hoisted out ; and the officers and 
seamen of Lieutenant Bligh's party having collected what was 
necessary for their voyage ,f were ordered into her. Among those 
who took their seat in the boat was Martin, which being noticed 
by Quintal, he pointed a musket at him, and declared he would 
shoot him unless he instantly returned to the ship, which he did. 
The armourer and carpenter's mates were also forcibly detained, 
as they might be required hereafter. Lieutenant Bligh was then 
conducted to the gangway, and ordered to descend into the boat, 
where his hands were unbound, and he and his party were veered 
astern, and kept there while the ship stood towards the island. 
During this time Lieutenant Bligh requested some muskets, to pro- 
tect his party against the natives ; but they were refused, and four 

* Adams went by the name of Alexander Smith in the Bounty, 
t Consisting of a small cask of water, 1501bs. of bread, a small quantity of rum 
and wine, a quadrant, compass, some lines, rope, canvas, twine, &c. 
VOL. I. 8 



58 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

cutlasses thrown to them instead. When they were about ten 
leagues from Tofoa, at Lieutenant Bligh's request, the launch was 
cast off, and immediately " Huzza for Otaheite!" echoed throughout 
the Bounty. 

There now remained in the ship, Christian, who was the mate, 
Heywood, Young, and Stewart, midshipmen, the master-at-arms, 
and sixteen seamen, besides the three artificers, and the gardener; 
forming in all twenty-five. 

In the launch were the lieutenant, master, surgeon, a master's 
mate, two midshipmen, botanist, three warrant-officers, clerk, and 
eight seamen, making in all nineteen ; and had not the three per- 
sons above-mentioned been forcibly detained, the captain would 
have had exactly half the ship's company. It may perhaps ap- 
pear strange to many, that with so large a party in his favour, 
Lieutenant Bligh made no attempt to retake the vessel ; but the 
mutiny was so ably conducted that no opportunity was afforded 
him of doing so; and the strength of the crew was decidedly in 
favour of Christian. Lieutenant Bligh's adventures and sufferings, 
until he reached Timor, are well known to the public, and need no 
repetition. 

The shi]D, having stood some time to the W. N. W., with a view 
to deceive the party in the launch, was afterwards put about, and 
her course directed as near to Otaheite as the wind would permit. 
In a few days they found some difficulty in reaching that island, 
and bore away for Tobouai, a small island about 300 miles to the 
southward of it, where they agreed to establish themselves, pro- 
vided the natives, who were numerous were not hostile to their 
purpose. Of this they had very early intimation, an attack being 
made upon a boat which they sent to sound the harbour. She, 
however, effected her purpose ; and the next morning the Bounty 
was warped inside the reef that formed the port, and stationed 
close to the beach. An attempt to land was next made ; but the 
natives disputed every foot of ground with spears, clubs, and stones, 
until they were dispersed by a discharge of cannon and musketry. 
On this they fled to the interior, and refused to hold any further 
intercourse with their visiters. 

The determined hostility of the natives put an end to the mu- 
tineer's design of settling among them at that time ; and, after two 
days' fruitless attempt at reconciliation, they left the island and pro- 
ceeded to Otaheite. Tobouai was, however, a favourite spot with 
them, and they determined to make another effort to settle there, 
which they thought would yet be feasible, provided the island- 
ers could be made acquainted with their friendly intentions. The 
only way to do this was through interpreters, who might be procured 
at Otaheite ; and in order not to be dependent upon the natives To-» 



1825.] and beering's strait. 59 

bouai for wives, they determined to engage several Otaheitan wo- 
men to accompany them. They reached Otaheite in eight days, 
and were received with the greatest kindness by their former friends, 
who immediately inquired for the captain and his officers. Chris- 
tian and his party having anticipated inquiries of this nature, in- 
vented a story to account for their absence, and told them that 
Lieutenant Bligh having found an island suitable for a settlement, 
had landed there with some of his officers, and sent them in the 
ship to procure live stock and whatever else would be useful to the 
colony, and to bring besides such of the natives as were willing to 
accompany them.* Satisfied with this plausible account, the chiefs 
supplied them with every thing they wanted, and even gave them 
a bull and a cow which had been confided to their care, the only 
ones, I believe, that were on the island. They were equally for- 
tunate in finding several persons, both male and female, willing to 
accompany them ; and thus furnished, they again sailed for To- 
bouai, where, as they expected, they were better received than be- 
fore, in consequence of being able to communicate Avith the natives 
through their interpreters. 

Experience had taught them the necessity of making self-de- 
fence their first consideration, and a fort was consequently com- 
menced, eighty yards square, surrounded by a wide ditch. It was 
nearly completed, when the natives, imagining they were going to 
destroy them, and that the ditch was intended for their place of 
interment, planned a general attack when the party should proceed 
to work in the morning. It fortunately happened that one of the 
natives who accompanied them from Otaheite overheard this con- 
spiracy, and instantly swam off to the ship and apprised the crew 
of their danger. Instead, therefore, of proceeding to their work 
at the fort, as usual, the following morning, they made an at- 
tack upon the natives, killed and wounded several, and obliged the 
others to retire inland. 

Great dissatisfaction and difference of opinion now arose among 
the crew : some were for abandoning the fort and returning to Ota- 
heite ; while others were for proceeding to the Marquesas ; but the 
majority were at that time for completing what they had begun, 
and remaining at Tobouai. At length the continued state of sus- 
pense in which they were kept by the natives made them decide 
to return to Otaheite, though much against the inclination of Chris- 

* In the Memoir of Captain Peter Heywood, in Marshall's Naval Biography, it is 
related that the mutineers availing themselves of a fiction which had been created 
by Lieutenant Bligh respecting Captain Cook, stated that -they had fallen in with 
him, and that he had sent the ship back for all the live stock that could be spared, 
in order to form a settlement at a place called Wytootacke, which Bligh had dis- 
covered in his course to the Friendly Islands. 



60 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

tian, who in vain expostulated with them on the folly of such a 
resolution, and the certain detection that must ensue. 

The implements being embarked, they proceeded therefore a 
second time to Otaheite, and were again well received by their 
friends, who replenished their stock of provision. During the pas- 
sage Christian formed his intention of proceeding in the ship to 
some distant uninhabited island, for the purpose of permanently 
settling, as the most likely means of escaping the punishment which 
he well knew awaited him in the event of being discovered. On 
communicating this plan to his shipmates he found only a few in- 
clined to assent to it ; but no objections were offered by those who 
dissented, to his taking the ship ; all they required was an equal 
distribution of such provisions and stores as might be useful. 
Young, Brown, Mills, Williams, Quintal, M'Coy, Martin, Adams, 
and: six natives (four of Otaheite and two of Tobouai) determined 
to follow the fate of Christian. Remaining, therefore, only twen- 
ty-four hours at Otaheite, they took leave of their own comrades, 
and having invited on board several of the women with the feigned 
purpose of taking leave, the cables were cut and they were carried 
off to sea.* 

The mutineers now bade adieu to all the world, save the few in- 
dividuals associated with them in exile. But where that exile 
should be passed, was yet undecided : the Marquesas Islands were 
first mentioned ; but Christian, on reading Captain Carteret's ac- 
count of Pitcairn Island, thought it better adapted to the purpose, 
and accordingly shaped a course thither. They reached it not 
many days afterwards ; and Christian, with one of the seamen, 
landed in a little nook, which we afterwards found very convenient 
for disembarkation. They soon traversed the island sufficiently to 
be satisfied that it was exactly suited to their wishes. It possessed 
water, wood, a good soil, and some fruits. The anchorage in the 
offing was very bad, and landing for boats extremely hazardous. 
The mountains were so difficult of access, and the passes so nar- 
row, that they might be- maintained by a few persons against an 
army ; and there were several caves, to which, in case of necessi- 
ty, they could retreat, and where, as long as their provision lasted, 
they might bid defiance to their pursuers. With this intelligence 
they returned on board, and brought the ship to an anchor in a 
small bay on the northern side of the island, which I have in con- 
sequence named " Bounty Bay," where every thing that could be 
of utility was landed, and where it was agreed to destroy the ship, 
either by running her on shore, or burning her. Christian, Adams, 

* The greater part of the mutineers who remained at Otaheite, were taken by his 
Majesty's ship Pandora, which was purposely sent out from England after lieuten- 
ant Blig-h's return. 



1825.] and beeking's strait. 61 

and the majority, were for the former expedient; but while they 
went to the forepart of the ship, to execute this business, Mathew 
Quintal set fire to the carpenter's store-room. The vessel burnt to 
the water's edge, and then drifted upon the rocks, where the remain- 
der of the wreck was burnt for fear of discovery. This occurred on 
the 23d January, 1790. 

Upon their first landing they perceived, by the remains of several 
habitations, morals, and three or four rudely sculptured images, which 
stood upon the eminence overlooking the bay where the ship was 
destroyed, that the island Jiad' deen previously inhabited. Some 
apprehensions were, in consequence, entertained lest the natives 
should have secreted themselves, and in some unguarded moment 
make an attack upon them ; but by degrees these fears subsided, 
and their avocations proceeded without interruption. 

A suitable spot of ground for a village was fixed upon with the ex- 
ception of which the island was divided into equal portions, but to 
the exclusion of the poor blacks, who being only friends of the sea- 
men, were not considered as entitled to the same privileges. Obliged 
to lend their assistance to the others in order to procure a subsistence, 
they thus, from being their friends, in the course of time became 
their slaves. No discontent, however, was manifested, and they 
willingly assisted in the cultivation of the soil. In clearing the space 
that was allotted to the village, a row of trees was left between it 
and the sea, for the purpose of concealing the houses from the 
observation of any vessels that might be passing, and nothing was 
allowed to be erected that might in any way attract attention. Until 
these houses were finished, the sails of the Bounty were converted 
into tents ; and when no longer required for that purpose, became 
very acceptable as clothing. Thus supplied with all the necessaries of 
life, and some of its luxuries, they felt their condition comfortable even 
beyond their most sanguiue expectation, and every thing went on 
peaceably and prosperously for about two years, at the expiration 
of which, Williams, who had the misfortune to lose his wife about a 
month after his arrival, by a fall from a precipice while collecting 
birds' eggs, became dissatisfied, and threatened to leave the island 
in one of the boats of the Bounty, unless he had another wife ; an 
unreasonable request, as it could not be complied with, except at 
the expense of the happiness of one of his companions : but Wil- 
liams, actuated by selfish considerations alone, persisted in his threat, 
and the Europeans not willing to part with him, on account of his 
usefulness as an armourer, constrained one of the blacks to bestow 
his wife upon the applicant. The blacks, outrageous at this second 
act of flagrant injustice, made common cause with their companion, 
and matured a plan of revenge upon their aggressors, which, had it 
succeeded, would have proved fatal to all the Europeans. Fortu- 



62 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

nately, the secret was imparted to the women, who ingeniously com- 
municated it to the white men in a song, of which the words were, 
" Why does black man sharpen axe ? to kill white man." The in- 
stant Christian became aware of the plot, he seized his gun and went 
in search of the blacks, but with a view only of showing them that 
their scheme was discovered, and thus by timely interference endeav- 
ouring to prevent the execution of it. He met one of them (Ohoo) 
at a little distance from the village, taxed him with the conspiracy, 
and, in order to intimidate him, discharged his gun, which he had 
humanely loaded with powder only. Ohoo, however, imagining 
otherwise, and that the bullet had missed its object, derided his un- 
skilfulness, and fled into the woods, followed by his accomplice 
Talaloo, who had been deprived of his wife. The remaining blacks, 
finding their plot discovered, purchased pardon by promising to mur- 
der their accomplices, who had fled, which they afterwards perform- 
ed by an act of the most odious treachery. . Ohoo was betrayed and 
murdered by his own nephew ; and Talaloo, after an ineffectual 
attempt made upon by poison, fell by the hands of his friend and 
his wife, the very woman on whose account all the disturbance 
began, and whose injuries Talaloo felt he was revenging in common 
with his own. 

Tranquillity was by these means restored, and preserved for 
about two years; at the expiration of which, dissatisfaction was again 
manifested by the blacks, in consequence of oppression and ill treat- 
ment, principally by Quintal and M'Coy. Meeting with no com- 
passion or redress from their masters, a second plan to destroy their 
oppressors was matured, and, unfortunately, too successfully execu- 
ted. 

It was agreed that two of the blacks, Timoa and Nehow, should 
desert from their masters, provide themselves with arms, and hide 
in the woods, but maintain a frequent communication with the other 
two, Tetaheite and Menalee; and that on a certain day they should 
attack and put to death all the Englishmen, when at work in their 
plantations. Tetaheite, to strengthen the party of the blacks on this 
day, borrowed a gun and ammunition of his master, under the pre- 
tence of shooting hogs, which had become wild and very numerous ; 
but instead of using it in this way, he joined his accomplices, and 
with them fell upon Williams and shot him. Martin, who was at 
no great distance, heard the report of the musket, and -exclaimed, 
"Well done ! we shall have a glorious feast to-day !" supposing that 
a hog had been shot. The party proceeded from Williams' toward 
Christian's plantation, where Menalee, the other black, was at work 
with Mills and M'Coy ; and, in order that the suspicions of the whites 
might not be excited by the report they had heard, requested Mills 
to allow him (Menalee) to assist them in bringing home the hog 



1825.] and beering's strait. 63 

they pretended to have killed. Mills agreed : and the four, being 
united, proceeded to Christian, who was working at his yam-plot, 
and shot him. Thus fell a man, who, from being the reputed ring- 
leader of the mutiny, has obtained an unenviable celebrity, and 
whose crime, if any thing can excuse mutiny, may perhaps bejcon- 
sidered as in some degree palliated, by the tyranny which led to its 
commission. M'Coy, hearing his groans, observed to Mills, "there 
was surely some person dying;" but Mills replied, "It is only 
Mainmast (Christian's wife) calling her children to dinner." The 
white men being yet too strong for the blacks to risk a conflict with 
them, it was necessary to concert a plan, in order to separate Mills and 
M'Coy. Two of them accordingly secreted themselves in M'Coy's 
house, and Tetaheite ran and told him that the two blacks who had 
deserted were stealing things out of his house. M'Coy instantly 
hastened to detect them, and on entering was fired at ; but the ball 
passed him. M'Coy immediately communicated the alarm to Mills, 
and advised him to seek shelter in the woods ; but Mills, being quite 
satisfied that one of the blacks whom he had made his friend would 
not suffer him to be killed, determined to remain. M'Coy, less 
confident, ran in search of Christian, but finding him dead, joined 
Quintal (who was already apprised of the work of destruction, and 
had sent his wife to give the alarm to the others), and fled with 
him to the woods. 

Mills had scarcely been left alone, when the two blacks fell upon 
him, and he became a victim to his misplaced confidence in the fi- 
delity of his friend. Martin and Brown were next separately mur- 
dered by Menalee and Tenina ; Menalee effecting with a maul what 
the musket had left unfinished. Tenina, it is said, wished to save 
the life of Brown, and fired at him with powder only, desiring him, 
at the same time, to fall as if killed; but, unfortunately rising too 
soon, the other black, Menalee, shot him. 

Adams was first apprised of his danger by Quintal's wife, who, 
in hurrying through his plantation, asked why he was working at 
such a time ? Not understanding the question, but seeing her 
alarmed, he followed her, and was almost immediately met by the 
blacks, whose appearance exciting suspicion, he made his escape 
into the woods. After remaining three or four hours, Adams, think- 
ing all was quiet, stole to his yam-plot for a supply of provisions ; 
his movements however did not escape the vigilance of the blacks, 
who attacked and shot him through the body, the ball entering at 
his right shoulder, and passing out through his throat. He fell 
upon his side, and was instantly assailed by one of them with the 
butt end of the gun ; but he parried the blows at the expense of a 
broken finger. Tetaheite then placed his gun to his side, but it 
fortunately missed fire twice. Adams, recovering a little from the 



64 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

shock of the wound, sprang on his legs, and ran off with as much 
speed as he was able, and fortunately outstripped his pursuers, who 
seeing him likely to escape, offered him protection if he would stop. 
Adams, much exhausted by his wound, readily accepted their terms, 
and was conducted to Christian's house, where he was kindly treat- 
ed. Here this day of bloodshed ended, leaving only four English- 
men alive out of nine. It was a day of emancipation to the blacks, 
who were now masters of the island, and of humiliation and retribu- 
tion to the whites. 

Young, who was a great favourite with the women, and had, du- 
ring this attack, been secreted by them, was now also taken to 
Christian's house. The other two, M'Coy and Quintal, who had 
always been the great oppressors of the blacks, escaped to the moun- 
tains, where they supported themselves upon the produce of the 
ground about them. 

The party in the village lived in tolerable tranquility for about a 
week ; at the expiration of which, the men of colour began to quar- 
rel about the right of choosing the women whose husbands had been 
killed ; which ended in Menalee's shooting Timoa as he sat by the 
side of Young's wife, accompanying her song with his flute. Timoa 
not dying immediately, Menalee reloaded, and deliberately des- 
patched him by a second discharge. He afterwards attacked Teta- 
heite, who was condoling with Young's wife for the loss of her fa- 
vourite black, and would have murdered him also, but for the inter- 
ference of the women. Afraid to remain longer in the village, he 
escaped to the mountains and joined Quintal and M'Coy, who, 
though glad of his services, at first recieved him with suspicion. 
This great acquisition to their force enabled them to bid defiance to 
the opposite party ; and to show their strength, and that they were 
provided with muskets, they appeared on a ridge of mountains, 
within sight of the village, and fired a volley which so alarmed the 
others that they sent Adams to say, if they would kill the black 
man, Menalee, and return to the village, they would all be friends 
again. The terms were so far complied with that Menalee was 
shot ; but, apprehensive of the sincerity of the remaining blacks, 
they refused to return while they were alive. 

Adams says it was not long before the widows of the white men 
so deeply deplored their loss, that they determined to revenge their 
death, and concerted a plan to murder the only two remaining men 
of colour. Another account, communicated by the islanders, is 
that it was only part of a plot formed at the same time that Mena- 
lee was murdered, which could not be put in execution before. 
However this may be, it was equally fatal to the poor blacks. The 
arrangement was, that Susan should murder one of them, Tetaheite, 
while he was sleeping by the side of his favourite ; and that Young 



1825.] and beering's strait. 65 

should at the same instant, upon a signal being given, shoot the 
other, Nehow. The unsuspecting Tetaheite retired as usual, and 
fell by the blow of an axe ; the other was looking at Young loading 
his gun, which he supposed was for the purpose of shooting hogs, 
and requested him to put in a good charge, when he received the 
deadly contents. 

In this manner the existence of the last of the men of colour ter- 
minated, who, though treacherous and revengeful, had, it is feared, 
too much cause for complaint. The accomplishment of this fatal 
scheme was immediately communicated to the two absentees, and 
their return solicited. But so many instances of treachery had oc- 
curred, that they would not believe the report, though delivered by 
Adams himself, until the hands and heads of the deceased were 
produced, which being done, they returned to the village. This 
eventful day was the 3d October, 1793. There were now left upon 
the island, Adams, Young, M'Coy, and Quintal, ten women, and 
some children. Two months after this period, Young commenced 
a manuscript journal, which affords a good insight into the state of 
the island, and the occupations of the settlers. From it we learn, 
that they lived peaceably together, building their houses, fencing 
in and cultivating their grounds, fishing, and catching birds, and con- 
structing pits for the purpose of entrapping hogs, which had become 
very numerous and wild, as well as injurious to the yam-crops. 
The only discontent appears to have been among the women, who 
lived promiscuously with the men, frequently changing their abode. 

Young says March 12, 1794, "Going over to borrow a rake, to 
rake the dust off my ground, I saw Jenny having a skull in her 
hand : I asked her whose it was ? and was told it was Jack Wil- 
liams's. I desired it might be buried : the women who were with 
Jenny gave me for answer, it should not. I said it should ; and de- 
manded it accordingly. I was asked the reason why I, in particular, 
should insist on such a thing, when the rest of the white men did 
not? I said, if they gave them leave to keep the skulls above 
ground, I did not. Accordingly when I saw M'Coy, Smith, and 
Mat. Quintal, I acquainted them with it, and said, I thought that if 
the girls did not agree to give up the heads of the five white men 
in a peaceable manner, they ought to be taken by force, and buried." 
About this time the women appear to have been much dissatisfied ; 
and Young's journal declares that, "since the massacre, it has been 
the desire of the greater part of them to get some conveyance, to 
enable them to leave the island." This feeling continued, and on 
the 14th April, 1794, was so strongly urged, that the men began to 
build them a boat ; but wanting planks and nails, Jenny, who now 
resides at Otaheite, in her zeal tore up the boards of her house, and 

VOL. I. 9 



66 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

endeavoured, though without success, to persuade some others to fol- 
low her example. 

On the 13th August following, the vessel was finished, and on 
the 15th she was launched : but, as Young says, "according to ex- 
pectation she upset," and it was most fortunate for them that she 
did so ; for had they launched out upon the ocean, where could they 
have gone ? or what could a few ignorant women have done by 
themselves, drifting upon the waves, but ultimately have fallen a 
sacrifice to their folly? However, the fate of the vessel was a great 
disappointment, and they continued much dissatisfied with their 
condition ; probably not without some reason, as they were kept in 
great subordination, and were frequently beaten by M'Coy and 
Quintal, who appear to have been of very quarrelsome dispositions ; 
Quintal in particular, who proposed " not to laugh, joke, or give any 
thing to any of the girls." 

On the 16th August they dug a grave, and buried the bones of 
the murdered people : and on October 3d, 1794, they celebrated 
the murder of the black men at Quintal's house. On the 11th 
November a conspiracy of the women to kill the white men in their 
sleep was discovered ; upon which they were all seized, and a dis- 
closure ensued ; but no punishment appears to have been inflicted 
upon them, in consequence of their promising to conduct themselves 
properly, and never again to give any cause " even to suspect their 
behaviour." However, though they were pardoned, Young ob- 
serves, "We did not forget their conduct ; and it was agreed among 
us, that the first female who misbehaved should be put to death ; 
and this punishment was to be repeated on each offence until we 
could discover the real intentions of the women." Young appears 
to have suffered much from mental perturbation in consequence of 
these disturbances ; and observes of himself on the two following 
days, that "he was bothered and idle." 

The suspicions of the men induced them, on the 15th, to con- 
ceal two muskets in the bush, for the use of any person who might 
be so fortunate as to escape, in the event of an attack being made. 
On the 30th November, the women again collected and attacked 
them ; but no lives were lost, and they returned on being once more 
pardoned, but were again threatened with death the next time they 
misbehaved. Threats thus repeatedly made, and as often unexe- 
cuted, as might be expected, soon lost their effect, and the women 
formed a party whenever their displeasure was excited, and hid 
themselves in the unfrequented parts of the island, carefully provid- 
ing themselves with fire-arms. In this manner the men were kept 
in continual suspense, dreading the result of each disturbance, as 
the numerical strength of the women was much greater than their 
own. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 67 

On the 4th of May, 1795, two canoes were begun, and in two 
days completed. These were used for fishing, in which employ- 
ment the people were frequently successful, supplying themselves 
with rock-fish and large mackarel. On the 27th of December fol- 
lowing, they were greatly alarmed by the appearance of a ship 
close in with the island. Fortunately for them, there was a tre- 
mendous surf upon the rocks, the weather wore a very threatening 
aspect, and the ship stood to the S. E., and at noon was out of 
sight. Young appears to have thought this a providential escape, 
as the sea for a week after was " smoother than they had ever 
recollected it since their arrival on the island." 

So little occurred in the year 1796, that one page records the 
whole of the events ; and throughout the following year there are 
but three incidents worthy of notice. The first, their endeavour 
to procure a quantity of meat for salting ; the next, their attempt 
to make syrup from the tee-plant (dracana terminalis) and sugar- 
cane; and the third, a serious accident that happened to M'Coy, 
who fell from a cocoa-nut -tree and hurt his right thigh, sprained 
both his ancles and wounded his side. The occupations of the 
men continued similar to those already related, occasionally enliv- 
ened by visits to the opposite side of the island. They appear to 
have been more sociable ; dining frequently at each other's houses, 
and contributing more to the comfort of the women, who, on their 
part, gave no ground for uneasiness. There was also a mutual ac- 
commodation amongst them in regard to provisions, of which a reg- 
ular account was taken. If one person was successful in hunting, 
he lent the others as much meat as they required, to be repaid aK. 
leisure ; and the same occurred with yams, taros, k,c, so thatth^X 
lived in a very domestic and tranquil state. 



It unfortunately happened that M'Coy had been et^koyednVa, 
distillery in Scotland ; and being very much addicted to' liquor, he 
tried an experiment with the tee-root, and on the 20th April M'98, 
succeeded in producing a bottle of ardent spirit. This~success in- 
duced his companion, Mathew Quintal, to "alter his kettle into a 
still," a contrivance which unfortunately succeeded too well, as fre- 
quent intoxication was the consequence, with M'Coy in particular 
upon whom at length it produced fits of delirium, in one of which, 
he threw himself from a cliff and was killed. The melancholy 
fate of this man created so forcible an impression on the remaining 
few, that they resolved never again to touch spirits ; and Adams, 
I have every reason to believe, to the day of his death kept his 
vow. 

The journal finishes nearly at the period of M'Coy's death, 
which is not related in it: but we learned from Adams, that about 
1799 Quintal lost his wife by a fall from the cliff while in search 



68 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

of birds' eggs ; that he grew discontented, and, though there were 
several disposable women on the island, and he had already experien- 
ced the fatal effects of a similar demand, nothing would satisfy him 
but the wife of one of his companions. Of course neither of them 
felt inclined to accede to this unreasonable indulgence ; and he 
sought an opportunity of putting them both to death. He was 
fortunately foiled in his first attempt, but swore he would repeat it. 
Adams and Young, having no doubt he would follow up his resolu- 
tion, and fearing he might be more successful in his next attempt, 
came to the conclusion, that their own lives were not safe while he 
was in existence, and that they were justified in putting him to 
death, which they did with an axe. 

Such was the melancholy fate of seven of the leading mutineers, 
who escaped from justice only to add murder to their former 
crimes ; for though some of them may not have actually embrued 
their hands in the blood of their fellow-creatures, yet all were ac- 
cessary to the deed. 

As Christian and Young were descended from respectable 
parents, and had received educations suitable to their birth, it might 
be supposed that they felt their altered and degraded situation much 
more than the seamen, who were comparatively well off ; but if so, 
Adams says, they had the good sense to conceal it, as not a single 
murmur or regret escaped them ; on the contrary, Christian was al- 
ways cheerful, and his example was of the greatest service in 
exciting his companions to labour. He was naturally of a hap- 
py, ingenuous disposition, and won the good opinion, and res- 
pect of all those who served under him ; which cannot be bet- 
ter exemplified than by his maintaining, under circumstances of 
great perplexity, the respect and regard of all who were associated 
with him up. to the hour of his death ; and even at the period of 
Our visit, Adams, in speaking of him, never omitted to say " Mr. 
Christian." 

Adams and Young were now the sole survivors out of the fif- 
teen males that landed upon the island. They were both, and 
more particularly Young, of a serious turn of mind ; and it would 
have been wonderful, after the many dreadful scenes at which they 
had assisted, if the solitude and tranquility that ensued had not 
disposed them to repentance. During Christian's lifetime they had 
only once read the church service, but since his decease this had 
been regularly done on every Sunday. They now, however, resolved 
to have morning and evening family prayers, to add afternoon ser- 
vice to the duty of the Sabbath, and to train up their own children 
and those of their late unfortunate companions,' in piety and virtue. 

In the execution of this resolution, Young's education enabled 
him to be of the greatest assistance; but he was not long suffered 



1825.] and beering's strait, 69 

to survive his repentance. An asthmatic complaint, under which 
he had for some time labored, terminated his existence about a 
year after the death of Quintal, and Adams was left the sole sur- 
vivor of the misguided and unfortunate mutineers of the Bounty. 
The loss of his last companion was a great affliction to him, and 
was for some time most severely felt. It was a catastrophe, how- 
ever, that more than ever disposed him to repentance, and deter- 
mined him to execute the pious resolution he had made, in the 
hope of expiating his offences. 

His reformation could not, perhaps, have taken place at a more 
propitious moment. Out of nineteen children upon the island, 
there were several between the ages of seven and nine years ; who, 
had they been longer suffered to follow their own inclinations, might 
have acquired habits which it would have been difficult, if not im- 
possible, for Adams to eradicate. The moment was therefore most 
favorable for his design, and his laudable exertions were attended 
by advantages both to the objects of his care and to his own mind, 
which surpassed his most sanguine expectations. He, neverthe- 
less, had an arduous task to perform. Besides the children to be 
educated, the Otaheitan women were to be converted; and as the 
example of the parents had a powerful influence over their chil- 
dren, he resolved to make them his first care. Here also his la- 
bours succeeded ; the Otaheitans were naturally of a tractable dis- 
position, and gave him less trouble than he anticipated : the chil- 
dren also acquired such a thirst after scriptural knowledge, that 
Adams in a short time had little else to do than to answer their in- 
quiries and put them in the right way. As they grew up, they 
acquired fixed habits of morality and piety ; their colony improved ; 
intermarriages occurred : and they now form a happy and well-reg- 
ulated society, the merit of which, in a great degree, belongs to 
Adams, and tends to redeem the former errors of his life. 



70 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Bounty Bay — Observatory landed — Manners, Customs, Occupations, Amusements, 
&c. of the Natives — Village — Description of the Island — Its produce — Marriage 
of Adams — Barge hoisted out — Departure — General description. 

Having detailed the particulars of the mutiny in the Bounty, and 
the fate of the most notorious of the ringleaders, and having 
brought the history of Pitcairn Island down to the present period, 
I shall return to the party who had assembled on board the ship to 
greet us on our arrival. 

The Blossom was so different, or to use the expression of our 
visiters, " so rich," compared with the other ships they had seen,* 
that they were constantly afraid of giving or committing some inju- 
ry, and would not even move without first asking permission. 
This diffidence gave us full occupation for some time, as our rest- 
less visiters, anxious to see every thing, seldom directed their at- 
tention long to any particular object, or remained in one position 
or place. Having no latches to their doors, they were ignorant of 
the manner of opening ours ; and we were constantly attacked on 
all sides with " Please may I sit down or get up, or go out of the 
cabin ?" or, " Please to open or shut the door." Their applica- 
tions were, however, made with such good nature and simplicity 
that it was impossible not to feel the greatest pleasure in paying 
attention to them. They very soon learnt the christian name of 
every officer in the ship, which they always used in conversation 
instead of the surname, and wherever a similarity to their own oc- 
curred, they attached themselves to that person as a matter of 
course. 

It was many hours after they came on board before the ship 
could get near the island, during which time they so ingratiated 
themselves with us that we felt the greatest desire to visit their 
houses ; and rather than pass another night at sea we put off in the 

* It was so long since the visit of the Briton and Tagus, that they had forgotten 
their appearance. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 71 

boats, though at a considerable distance from the land, and accom- 
panied them to the shore. We followed our guides past a rugged 
point surmounted by tall spiral rocks, known to the islanders as St. 
Paul's rocks, into a spacious iron-bound bay, where the Bounty 
found her last anchorage. In this bay, which is bounded by lofty 
cliffs almost inaccessible, it was proposed to land. Thickly branch- 
ed evergreens skirt the base of these -hills, and in summer afford a 
welcome retreat from the rays of an almost vertical sun. In the 
distance are seen several high pointed rocks which the pious high- 
landers have named after the most zealous of the Apostles, and 
outside of them is a square basaltic islet. Formidable breakers 
fringe the coast, and seem to present an insurmountable barrier to 
all access. 

We here brought our boats to an anchor, in consequence of the 
passage between the sunken rocks being much too intricate, and 
we trusted ourselves to the natives, who landed us, two at a time, 
in their whale-boat. The difficulty of landing was more than re- 
paid by the friendly reception we met with on the beach from Han- 
nah Young, a very interesting young woman, the daughter of 
Adams. In her eagerness to greet her father, she had outrun her 
female companions, for whose delay she thought it necessary in the 
first place to apologize, by saying they had all been over the hill 
in company with John Buffet to look at the ship, and were not yet 
returned. It appeared that John Buffet, who was a sea-faring 
man, ascertained that the ship was a man-of-war, and without 
knowing exactly why, became so alarmed for the safety of Adams 
that he either could not or would^not answer any of the interoga- 
tions which were put to him. This mysterious silence set all the 
party in tears, as they feared he had discovered something adverse 
to their patriarch. At length his obduracy yielded to their en- 
treaties ; but before he explained the cause of his conduct, the 
boats were seen to put off from the ship, and Hannah immediately 
hurried to the beach to kiss the old man's cheek, which she did 
with a fervency demonstrative of the warmest affection. Her 
apology for her companions was rendered unnecessary by their 
appearance on the steep and circuitous path down the mountain, 
who, as they arrived on the beach, successively welcomed us to 
their island, with a simplicity and sincerity which left no doubt of 
the truth of their professions. 

They almost all wore the cloth of the island : their dress con- 
sisted of a petticoat, and a mantle loosely thrown over the should- 
ers, and reaching to the ancles. Their stature was rather above 
the common height ; and their limbs, from being accustomed to 
work and climb the hills, had acquired unusual muscularity ; but 
their features and manners were perfectly feminine. Their com- 



72 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

plexion, though fairer than that of the men, was of a dark gipsy 
hue, but its deep colour was less conspicuous, by being contrasted 
with dark glossy hair, which hung down over their shoulders in long 
waving tresses,- nicely oiled : in front it was tastefully turned back 
from the forehead and temples, and was retained in that position 
by a chaplet of small red or white aromatic blossoms, newly gathered 
from the flower-tree (morinda citrifolid), or from the tobacco plant ; 
their countenances were lively and good natured, their eyes dark and 
animated, and each possessed an enviable row of teeth. Such 
was the agreeable impression of their first appearance, which was 
heightened by the wish expressed simultaneously by the whole 
groupe, that we were come to stay several days with them. As 
the sun was going down, we signified our desire to get to the vil- 
lage and to pitch the observatory before dark, and this was no 
sooner made known, than every instrument and article found a 
carrier. 

We took the only pathway which leads from the landing-place 
to the village, and soon experienced the difficulties of the ascent, 
which the distant appearance of the ground led us to anticipate. 
To the natives, however, there appeared to be no obstacles : wo- 
men as well as men bore their burthens over the most difficult parts 
without inconvenience ; while we, obliged at times to have recourse 
to tufts of shrubs or grass for assistance, experienced serious delay, 
being also incommoded by the heat of the weather, and by swarms 
of house-flies which infest the island, and are said to have been 
imported there by H. M. S. Briton. 

As soon as we had gained the first level, our party rested on 
some large stones that lay half buried in long grass on one side of 
a ravine, from which the blue sky was nearly concealed by the 
overlapping branches of palm-trees. Here, through the medium 
of our female guides, who, furnished with the spreading leaves of 
the tee-plant, drove away our troublesome persecutors, we obtained 
a respite from their attacks. 

Having refreshed ourselves, we resumed our journey over a 
more easy path ; and after crossing two valleys, shaded by cocoa- 
nut trees, we arrived at the village. It consisted of five houses, 
built upon a cleared piece of ground sloping to the sea, and com- 
manding a distant view of the horizon, through a break in an ex- 
tensive wood of palms. While the men assisted to pitch our tent, 
the women employed themselves in preparing our dinner, or more 
properly supper, as it was eight o'clock at night. 

The manner of cooking in Pitcairn's Island is similar to that of 
Otaheite, which, as some of my readers may not recollect, I shall 
briefly describe. An oven is made in the ground, sufficiently large 
to contain a good-sized pig, and is lined throughout with stones 



1825.] and beertng's strait. 73 

nearly equal in size, which have been previously made as hot as 
possible. These are covered with some broad leaves, generally of 
the tee-plant, and on them is placed the meat. If it be a pig, its 
inside is lined with heated stones, as well as the oven ; such veg- 
etables as are to be cooked are then placed round the animal : 
the whole is carefully covered with leaves of the tee, and buried 
beneath a heap of earth, straw, or rushes and boughs, which, by 
a little use, becomes matted into one mass. In about an hour and 
a quarter the animal is sufficiently cooked, and is certainly more 
thoroughly done than it would be by a fire. 

By the time the tent was up and the instruments secured, we 
were summoned to a meal cooked in this manner, than which a 
less sumptuous fare would have satisfied appetites rendered keen 
by long abstinence and a tiresome journey. Our party divided 
themselves that they might not crowd one house in particular : 
Adams did not entertain ; but at Christian's I found a table spread 
with plates, knives, and forks ; which, in so remote a part of the 
world, was an unexpected sight. They were, it is true, far from 
uniform ; but by one article being appropriated for another, we all 
found something to put our portion upon ; and but few of the na- 
tives were obliged to substitute their fingers for articles which are 
indispensable to the comfort of more polished life. The smoking 
pig, by a skilful dissection, was soon portioned to every guest, but 
no one ventured to put its excellent qualities to the test until a 
lengthened Amen, pronounced by all the party, had succeeded an 
emphatic grace delivered by the village parson. " Turn to" was 
then the signal for attack, and as it is convenient that all the party 
should finish their meal about the same time, in order that one 
grace might serve for all, each made the most of his time. In 
Pitcairn's Island it is not deemed proper to touch even a bit of 
bread without a grace before and after it, and a person is accused of 
inconsistency if he leaves off and begins again. So strict is their 
observance of this form, that we do not know of any instance in 
which it has been forgotten. On one occasion I had engaged Ad- 
ams in conversation, and he incautiously took the first mouthful 
without having said his grace ; but before he had swallowed it, he 
recollected himself, and feeling as if he had committed a crime, 
immediately put away what he had in his mouth, and commenced 
his prayer. 

Welcome cheer, hospitality, and good humour, were the char- 
acteristics of the feast ; and never was their beneficial influence 
more practically exemplified than on this occasion, by the demoli- 
tion of nearly all that was placed before us. With the exception 
of some wine we had brought with us, water was the only bever- 
age. This was placed in a large jug at one end of the board, and, 

vol. i. 10 



74 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

when necessary, was passed round the table — a ceremony at which, 
in Pitcairn's Island in particular, it is desirable to be the first par- 
taker, as the gravy of the dish is invariably mingled with the con- 
tents of the pitcher : the natives, who prefer using their fingers to 
forks, being quite indifferent whether they hold the vessel by the 
handle or by the spout. Three or four torches made with doodoe 
nuts (aleurites triloba), strung upon the fibres of a palm-leaf, were 
stuck in tin pots at the end of the table, and formed an excellent 
substitute for candles, except that they gave a considerable heat, 
and cracked, and fired, somewhat to the discomfiture of the person 
whose face was near them. 

Notwithstanding these deficiencies, we made a very comfortable 
and hearty supper, heard many little anecdotes of the place, and 
derived much amusemeut from the singularity of the inquiries of 
our hosts. One regret only intruded itself upon the general con- 
viviality, which we did not fail to mention, namely, that there was 
so wide a distinction between the sexes. This was the remains of 
a custom very common among the South Sea Islands, which in 
some places is carried to such an extent, that it imposes death 
upon the woman who shall eat in the presence of her husband ; 
and though the distinction between man and wife is not here car- 
ried to that extent, it is still sufficiently observed to exclude all the 
women from table, if there happens to be a deficiency of seats. In 
Pitcairn's Island, they have settled ideas of right and wrong, to 
which they obstinately adhere ; and, fortunately, they have imbibed 
them generally from the best source. 

In the instance in question, they have, however, certainly erred ; 
but of this they could not be persuaded, nor did they, I believe, 
thank us for our interference. Their argument was, that man was 
made first, and ought, consequently, on all occasions, to be served 
first — a conclusion which deprived us of the company of the wo- 
men at table, during the whole of our stay at the island. Far 
from considering themselves neglected, they very good-naturedly 
chatted with us behind our seats, and flapped away the flies, and 
by a gentle tap, accidentally or playfully delivered, reminded us 
occasionally of the honour that was done us. The conclusion of 
our meal was the signal for the women and children to prepare 
their own, to whom we resigned our seats, and strolled out to en- 
joy the freshness of the night. It was late by the time the women 
had finished, and we were not sorry when we were shown to the 
beds prepared for us. The mattress was composed of palm-trees, 
covered with native cloth ; the sheets were of the same material ; 
and we knew by the crackling of them, that they were quite new 
from the loom or beater. The whole arrangement was extremely 
comfortable, and highly inviting to repose, which the freshness of 



1825. J and beering's strait. 75 

the apartment, rendered cool by a free circulation of air through 
its sides, enabled us to enjoy without any annoyance from heat 
or insects. One interruption only disturbed our first sleep ; it was 
the pleasing melody of the evening hymn, which, after the lights 
were put out, was chaunted by the whole family in the middle of 
the room. In the morning also we were awoke by their morning 
hymn and family devotion. As we were much tired, and the sun's 
rays had not yet found their way through the broad opening of the 
apartment, we composed ourselves to rest again ; and on awaking 
found that all the natives were gone to their several occupations, — 
the men to offer what assistance they could to our boats in landing, 
carrying burthens for the seamen, or to gather what fruits were in 
season. Some of the women had taken our linen to wash ; those 
whose turn it was to cook for the day were preparing the oven, the 
pig, and the yams ; and we could hear, by the distant reiterated 
strokes of the beater,* that others were engaged in the manufac- 
ture of cloth. By our bedside had already been placed some ripe 
fruits ; and our hats were -crowned with chaplets of the fresh blos- 
som of the nono, or flower-tree (morinda citrifolia), which the 
women had gathered in the freshness of the morning clew. On 
looking round the apartment, though it contained several beds, we 
found no partition, curtain, or screens ; they had not yet been con- 
sidered necessary. So far, indeed, from concealment being thought 
of when we were about to get up, the women, anxious to show 
their attention, assembled to wish us a good morning, and to in- 
quire in what way they could best contribute to our comforts, and 
to present us with some little gift, which the produce of the island 
afforded. Many persons would have felt awkward at rising and 
dressing before so many pretty black-eyed damsels assembled in 
the centre of a spacious room ; but by a little habit we overcame 
this embarrassment ; and found the benefit of their services in 
fetching water as we required it, and substituting clean linen for 
such as we pulled off. 

It must be remembered, that with these people, as with the 
other islanders of the South Seas, the custom has generally been 
to go naked, the maro with the men excepted, and with the wo- 
men the petticoat, or kilt, with a loose covering over the bust, 
which, indeed, in Pitcairn's Island, they are always careful to con- 
ceal ; consequently, an exposure to that extent carried with it no 
feeling whatever of indelicacy; or, I may safely add, that the Pit- 
cairn Islanders would have been the last persons to incur the charge. 

We assembled at breakfast about noon, the usual eating hour 
of the natives, though they do not confine themselves to that pe- 

* This is an instrument used for the manufacture of their cloth. 



76 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

riod exactly, but take their meal whenever it is sufficiently cooked ; 
and afterwards availed ourselves of their proffered services to show 
us the island, and under their guidance first inspected the village, 
and what lay in its immediate vicinity. In an adjoining house we 
found two young girls seated upon the ground, employed in the 
laborious exercise of beating out the bark of the cloth-tree, which 
they intended to present to us, on our departure, as a keepsake. 
The hamlet consisted of five cottages, built more substantially than 
neatly, upon a cleared patch of ground, sloping to the northward, 
from the high land of the interior to the cliffs which overhang the 
sea, of which the houses command a distant view in a northern di- 
rection. In the N. E. quarter, the horizon may also be seen peep- 
ing between the stems of the lofty palms, w T hose graceful branches 
nod like ostrich plumes to the refreshing trade-wind. To the 
northward, and northwestward, thicker groves of palm-trees rise in 
an impenetrable wood, from two ravines which traverse the hills in 
various directions to their summit. Above the one, to the west- 
ward, a lofty mountain rears its head, and towards the sea ter- 
minates in a fearful precipice filled with caverns, in which the dif- 
ferent sea-fowl find an undisturbed retreat. Immediately round 
the village are the small enclosures for fattening pigs, goats, and 
poultry ; and beyond them, the cultivated grounds producing the 
banana, plantain, melon, yam, taro, sweet potatoes, appai, tee, and 
cloth plant, with other useful roots, fruits, and shrubs, which ex- 
tend far up the mountain and to the southward ; but in this partic- 
ular direction they are excluded from the view by an immense 
banyan tree, two hundred paces in. circumference, whose foilage 
and branches form of themselves a canopy impervious to the rays 
of the sun. Every cottage has its out-house for making cloth, its 
baking-place, its sty, and its poultry -house. 

Within the enclosure of palm-trees is the cemetery where the 
few persons who had died on the island, together with those who 
met with violent deaths, are deposited. Besides the houses above- 
mentioned, there are three or four others built upon the plantations 
beyond the palm groves. One. of these, situated higher up the 
hill than the village, belonged to Adams, who had retired from the 
bustle of the hamlet to a more quiet and sequestered spot, to enjoy 
the advantages of an elevated situation, so desirable in warm coun- 
tries ; and in addition to these again there are four other cottages 
to the eastward which belong to the Youngs and Quintals. 

All these cottages are strongly built of wood in an oblong form, 
and thatched with the leaves of the palm-tree bent round the stem 
of the same branch, and laced horizontally to rafters, so placed as 
to give a proper pitch to the roof. The greater part have an up- 
per story, which is appropriated to sleeping, and contain four beds 



1825.] and beering's strait. 77 

built in the angles of the room, each sufficiently large for three or 
four persons to lie on. They are made of wood of the cloth-tree, 
and are raised eighteen inches above the floor; a mattress of palm- 
leaves is laid upon the planks, and above it three sheets of the 
cloth-plant, which form an excellent substitute for linen. The 
lower room generally contains one or more beds, but is always used 
as their eating-room, and has a broad table in one part, with several 
stools placed round it. The floor is elevated above a foot from 
the ground, and, as well as the sides of the house, is made of stout 
plank, and not of bamboo, or stone, as stated by Captain Folger ; 
indeed they have not a piece of bamboo on the island ; nor have 
they any mats. The floor is a fixture, but the sideboards are let 
into a groove in the supporters, and can be removed at pleasure, 
according to the state of the weather, and the whole side may, if 
required, be laid open. The lower room communicates with the 
upper by a stout ladder in the centre, and leads up through a trap- 
door into the bedroom. 

From the village several pathways (for roads there are none) 
diverge, and generally lead into the valleys, which afford a less 
difficult ascent to the upper part of the island than the natural 
slope of the hills ; still they are very rugged and steep, and in the 
rainy season so slippery that it is almost impossible for any person, 
excepting the natives, to traverse them with safety. We selected 
one which led over the mountain to the landing-place, on the op- 
posite side of the island, and visited the several plantations upon 
the higher grounds, which extend towards the mountain with a 
gentle slope. Here the mutineers originally built their summer- 
houses, for the purpose of enjoying the breeze and overlooking the 
yam grounds, which are more productive than those lower down. 
Near these plantations are the remains of some ancient morais ; 
and a spot is pointed out as the place where Christian was first 
buried. By a circuitous and, to us, difficult path, we reached the 
ridge of the mountain, the height of which is 1109 feet above the 
sea ; this is the highest part of the island. The ridge extends in a 
north and south direction, and unites two small peaks : it is so nar- 
row as to be in many parts scarcely three feet wide, and forms a 
dangerous pass between two fearful precipices. The natives were 
so accustomed to climb these crags that they unconcernedly skipped 
from point to point like the hunters of chamois ; and young Chris- 
tian actually jumped upon the very peak of a cliff, which was so 
small as to be scarcely sufficient for his feet to rest upon, and from 
which any other person would have shuddered even to look down 
upon the beach, lying many hundred feet at its base. At the 
northern extremity of this ridge is a cave of some interest, as being 
the intended retreat of Christian, in the event of a landing being 



78 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

effected by any ship sent in pursuit of him, and where he resolved 
to sell his life as dearly as he could. In this recess he always kept 
a store of provisions, and near it erected a small hut, well conceal- 
ed by trees, which served the purpose of a watchhouse. So diffi- 
cult was the approach to this cave, that even if the party were successful 
in crossing the ridge, as long as his ammunition lasted, he might 
have bid defiance to any force. An unfrequented and dangerous 
path leads from this place to a peak which commands a view of the 
western and southern coasts : at this height, on a clear day, a per- 
fect map of the bottom is exhibited by the different coloured waters. 
On all points the island is terminated by cliffs, or rocky projections, 
off which lie scattered numerous fragments of rock, rising like so 
many black pinnacles amid the surf, which on all sides rolls in upon 
the shore. 

We descended by a less abrupt slope than that by which we advanc- 
ed, and took our way through yam grounds to a ravine which brought 
us to the village. The path leading down this ravine is, in many 
places, so precipitious, that we were constantly in danger of slipping 
and rolling into the depths below, which the assistance of the na- 
tives alone prevented. 

While we were thus borrowing help from others, and grasping 
every tuft of grass and bough that offered its friendly support, we 
were overtaken by a groupe of chubby little children, trudging un- 
concernedly on, munching a water melon, and balancing on their 
heads calabashes of water, which they had brought from the oppo- 
site side of the island. They smiled at our helplessness as they 
passed, and we felt their innocent reproof; but we were still un- 
practised in such feats, while they, from being trained to them, had 
acquired a footing and a firmness which habit alone can produce. 

It was dark when we reached the houses, but we found by a 
whoop which echoed through the woods, that we were not the last 
from home. This whoop, peculiar to the place, is so shrill, that it 
may be heard half over the island, and the ear of the natives is so 
quick, that they will catch it when we could distinguish nothing of 
the kind. By the tone in which it is delivered, they also know the 
wants of the person, and who it is. These shrill sounds, which we 
had just heard, informed us, and those who were at the village, that 
a party had lost their way in the woods. A blazing beacon was 
immediately made, which, together with a few more whoops to di- 
rect the party, soon brought the absentees home. Their perfection 
in these signals will be manifest from the following anecdote : I was 
one day crossing the mountain which intersects the island, with 
Christian ; we had not long parted with their whale-boat on the 
western side of the island, and were descending a ravine amidst a thick- 
et of trees, when he turned round and said, u The whale-boat is come 



1825. J and beering's strait. 79 

round to Bounty Bay ;" at which I was not a little surprised, as I had 
heard nothing, and we could not see through the wood ; but he 
heard the signal ; and when we got down it proved to be the case. 
In this little retreat there is not much variety, and the descrip- 
tion of one day's occupation serves equally for its successor. The 
dance is a recreation very rarely indulged in ; but as we particularly 
requested it, they would not refuse to gratify us. A large room in 
Quintal's house was prepared for the occasion, and the company 
were ranged on one side of the apartment, glowing beneath a blazing 
string of doodoe nuts ; the musicians were on the other, under the 
direction of Arthur Quintal. He was seated upon the ground, as 
head musician, and had before him a large gourd, and a piece of mu- 
sical wood (poron), which he balanced nicely upon his toes, that 
there might be the less interruption to its vibrations. He struck 
the instrument alternately with two sticks, and was accompanied by 
Dolly, who performed very skilfully with both hands upon a gourd, 
which had a longitudinal hole cut in one end of it ; rapidly beating 
the orifice with the palms of her hands, and releasing it again with 
uncommon dexterity, so as to produce a tattoo, but in perfect 
time with the other instrument. A third performed upon the Boun- 
ty's old copper fish-kettle, which formed a sort of bass. To this 
exhilarating music, three grown-up females stood up to dance, but 
with a reluctance which showed it was done only to oblige us, as they 
consider such performances an inroad upon their usual innocent pas- 
times. The figure consisted of such parts of the Otaheitan dance 
as were thought most decorous, and was little more than a shuffling 
of the feet, sliding past each other, and snapping their fingers ; but 
even this produced, at times, considerable laughter from the female 
spectators, perhaps from some association of ridiculous ideas, which 
we as strangers, did not feel ; and no doubt had our opinion of the 
performance been consulted, it would have essentially differed from 
theirs. They did not long continue these diversions, from an' idea 
that it was too great a levity to be continued long ; and only the 
three before-mentioned ladies could be prevailed upon to exhibit 
their skill. One of the officers, with a view of contributiug to the 
mirth of the colonists, had obligingly brought his violin on shore, 
and, as an inducement for them to dance again, offered to play some 
country dances and reels, if they would proceed ; but they could 
not be tempted to do so. They, however, solicited a specimen of 
the capabilities of the instrument, which was granted, and, though 
very well executed, did not give the satisfaction which we anticipa- 
ted. They had not yet arrived at a state of refinement to appreci- 
ate harmony, but were highly delighted with the rapid motion of 
the fingers, and always liked to be within sight of the instrument 
when it was played. They were afterwards heard to say, that they 



80 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

preferred their own simple musical contrivance to the violin. They 
did not appear to have the least ear for music : one of the officers 
took considerable pains to teach them thehundreth psalm, that they 
might not chaunt all the psalms and hymns to the same air ; but 
they did not evince the least aptitude or desire to learn it. 

The following day was devoted to the completion of our view of 
the island, of which the natives were anxious we should see every 
part. We accordingly set out with the same guides by a road which 
brought us to "the Rope," a steep cliff so called from its being ne- 
cessary to descend it by a rope. It is situated at the eastern end of 
the island, and overlooks a small sandy bay lined with rocks, which 
render it dangerous for a boat to attempt to land there. 

At the foot of "the Rope" were found some stone axes, and a 
hone, the manufacture of the aborigines, and upon the face of a 
large rock were some characters very rudely engraved, which we 
copied ; they appeared to have been executed by the Bounty's 
people, though Adams did not recollect it. To the left of "the 
Rope" is a peak of considerable height, overlooking Bounty Bay. 
Upon this eminence the mutineers, on their arrival, found four im- 
ages, about six feet in height, placed upon a platform ; and accord- 
ing to Adams's description not unlike the 'morals at Easter Island, 
excepting that they were upon a much smaller scale. One of these 
images, which had been preserved, was a rude representation of the 
human figure to the hips, and was hewn out of a piece of red lava. 

Near this supposed moral, we were told that human bones and 
stone hatchets were occasionally dug up, but we could find only 
two bones, by which we might judge of the stature of these abori- 
gines. These were an os femoris and a part of a cranium of an un- 
usual size and thickness. The hatchets, of which we obtained sev- 
eral specimens, were made of a compact basaltic lava, not unlike 
clinkstone, very hard and capable of a fine polish. In shape they 
resembled those used at Otaheite, and by all the islanders of these 
seas that I have seen. A large stone bowl was also found, similar 
to those used at Otaheite, and two stone huts. That this island 
should have been inhabited is not extraordinary, when it is remem- 
bered that Easter Island, which is much more distant from the eas- 
tern world, was so, though nothing is known of the fate of the 
people. 

From these images, and the large piles of stones on heights to 
which they must have been dragged with great labour, it may be 
concluded that the island was inhabited a considerable time ; and 
from bones being found always buried under these piles, and never 
upon, the surface, we may presume that those who survived quitted 
the island in their canoes to seek an asylum elswhere. 

Having this day seen every part of the island, we had no further 



1825.] and beering's strait. 81 

desire to ramble ; and as the weather did not promise to be very fair, 
I left the observatory in the charge of Mr. Wolfe, and embarked, 
accompanied by old Adams. Soon after he came onboard it began 
to blow, and for several days afterwards the wind prevented any 
communication with the shore. The natives during this period were 
in great apprehension : they went to the top of the island every 
morning to look for the ship ; and once, when she was not to be 
seen, began to entertain the most serious doubts whether Adams 
would be returned to them ; but he, knowing we should close the 
island as soon as the weather would permit, was rather glad of the 
opportunity of remaining on board, and of again associating with his 
countrymen. And although he had passed his sixty-fifth year, join- 
ed in the dances and songs of the forecastle, and was always 
cheerful. 

On the 16th the weather permitted a boat to be sent on shore, 
and Adams was restored to his anxious friends. Previous to quit- 
ting the ship, he said it would add much to his happiness if I would 
read the marriage ceremony to him and his wife, as he could not 
bear the idea of living with her without its being done. He had 
long wished for the arrival of a ship of war to set his conscience at 
rest on that point. Though Adams was aged, and the old woman 
had been blind and bed-ridden for several years, he made such a 
point of it, that it would have been cruel to refuse him. They 
were accordingly the next day duly united, and the event noted in 
a register by John Buffet. 

The islanders were delighted at having us again among them, and 
expressed themselves in the warmest terms. We soon found, through 
our intercourse with these excellent people, that they had no wants 
excepting such as had been created by an intercourse with vessels, 
which have from time to time supplied them with European articles. 
Nature has been extremely bountiful to them ; and necessity has 
taught them how to apply her gifts to their own particular uses. 
Still they have before them the prospect of an increasing population, 
with limited means of supporting it. Almost every part of the 
island capable of cultivation has been turned to account ; but what 
would have been the consequences of this increase, had not an acci- 
dent discovered their situation, it is not difficult to foresee : and a 
reflecting mind will naturally trace in that disclosure the benign in- 
terference of the same hand which has raised such a virtuous colo- 
ny from so guilty a stock. Adams having contemplated the situa- 
tion which the islanders would have been reduced to, begged, at our 
first interview, that I would communicate with the government upon 
the subject, which was done ; and I am happy to say that, through 
the interference of the Admiralty and Colonial office, means have 
been taken for removing them to any place they may choose for 

vol. i. 11 



82 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

themselves; and a liberal supply of useful articles has recently been 
sent to them.* 

Some books of travels which were left from time to time on the 
island, and the accounts they had heard of foreign countries from 
their visiters, has created in the islanders a strong desire to travel, 
so much so that they one day undertook a voyage in their whale- 
boat to an island which they learnt was not Very far distant from 
their own ; but fortunately for them, as the compass on which they 
relied, one of the old Bounty's, was so rusty as to be quite useless, 
their curiosity yielded to discretion, and they returned before they 
lost sight of their native soil. 

The idea of passing all their days upon an island only two miles 
long, without seeing any thing of the world, or, what was a stronger 
argument^ without doing any good in it, had with several of them 
been deeply considered. But family ties, and an ardent affection 
for each other, and for their native soil, had always interposed to 
prevent their going away singly. George Adams, however, having 
no wife to detain him, but, on the contrary, reasons for wishing to 
employ his thoughts on subjects foreign to his home, was very anx- 
ious to embark in the Blossom; and I would have acceded to his 
wishes, had not his mother wept bitterly at the idea of parting from 
him, and imposed terms touching his return to the island to which 
I could not accede. It was a sore disappointment to poor George, 
whose case forms a striking instance of the rigid manner in which 
these islanders observe their word. 

Wives upon Pitcairn Island, it may be imagined, are very scarce, 
as the same restrictions with regard to relationship exist as in Eng- 
land. George, in his early days, had fallen in love with Polly 
Young, a girl a little older than himself; but Polly, probably at 
that time liking some one else, and being at the age when young 
ladies' expectations are at the highest, had incautiously said, she 
never would give her hand to George Adams. He, nevertheless, 
indulged a hope that she would one day relent ; and to this end was 
unremitting in his endeavours to please her. In this expectation he 
was not mistaken ; his constancy and attentions, and, as he grew 
into manhood, his handsome form, which George took every oppor- 
tunity of throwing into the most becoming attitudes before her, sof- 
tened Polly's heart into a regard for him, and, had nothing passed 
before, she would willingly have given him her hand But the vow 
of her youth was not to be got over, and the love-sick couple lan- 
guished on from day to day, victims to the folly of early resolu- 
tions. 

The weighty case was referred for our consideration ; and the 

* I have been informed siace that they have changed their mind, and are at pres- 
ent contented with their situation. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 83 

fears of the party were in some measure relieved by the result, 
which was, that it would be much better to marry than to continue 
unhappy, in consequence of a hasty determination made before the 
judgment was matured ; they could not, however, be prevailed on 
to yield to our decision, and we left them unmarried.* 

Another instance of a rigid performance of promise was exem- 
plified in old Adams, who is anxious that his own conduct should 
form an example to the rising generation. 

In the course of conversation, he one day said he would accom- 
pany me up the mountain, if there was nobody else near ; and it 
so happened, that on the day I had leisure to go, the young men 
were all out of the way. Adams, therefore, insisted upon per- 
forming Jiis engagement, though the day was extremely hot, and 
the journey was much too laborious, in any weather, for his ad- 
vanced period of life. He nevertheless set out, adding, " I said I 
would go, and so I will ; besides, without example, precept will 
have but little effect." At the first valley he threw off his hat, 
handkerchief, and jacket and left them by the side of the path ; at 
the second his trousers were cast aside into a bush ; and had he 
been alone, or provided with a maro, his shirt would certainly have 
followed ; thus disencumbered, he boldly led the way, which was 
well known to him in earlier days ; but it was so long since he had 
trodden it, that we met with many difficulties. At length we reach- 
ed the top of the ridge, which we were informed was the place 
where M'Coy and Quintal appeared in defiance of the blacks. 
Adams felt so fatigued that he was now glad to lie down. The 
breeze here blew so hard and cold, that a shirt alone was little use, 
and had he not been inured to all the changes of atmosphere, the 
sudden transition upon his aged frame must have been fatal. 

During the period we remained upon the island we were enter- 
tained at the board of the natives, sometimes dining with one per- 
son, and sometimes with another : their meals, as I have before 
stated, were not confined to hours, and always consisted of haked 
pig, yams, and taro, and more rarely of sweet potatoes. 

The productions of the island being very limited, and inter- 
course with the rest of the world much restricted, it may be readily 
supposed their meals cannot be greatly ^laried. However they do 
their best with what they have, and cook it in different ways, the 
pig excepted, which is always baked. There are several goats up- 
on the island, but they dislike their flesh as well as their milk. 
Yams constitute their principal food ; these are boiled, baked, or 
made into pillihey (cakes) , by being mixed with cocoa nuts ; or 
bruised and formed into a soup. Bananas are mashed, and made 

* They have since been united, and have two children. 



84 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [D ec . 

into pancakes, or, like the yam, united with the milk of the cocoa- 
nut, into pillihey, and eaten with molasses, extracted from the tee- 
root. The taro root, by being rubbed, makes a very good substi- 
tute for bread, as well as the bananas, plantain, and appai. Their 
common beverage is pure water, but they made for us a tea, ex- 
tracted from the tee-plant, flavoured with ginger, and sweetened 
with the juice of the sugar-cane. When alone, this beverage and 
fowl soup are used only for such as are ill. They seldom kill a 
pig, but live mostly upon fruit and vegetables. The duty of say- 
ing grace was performed by John Buffet, a recent settler among 
them, and their clergyman ; but if he was not present, it fell upon 
the eldest of the company. They have all a great dislike to spir- 
its, in consequence of M'Coy having killed himself by too free an 
indulgence in it ; but wine in moderation is never refused. With 
this simple diet, and being in the daily habit of rising early, and 
taking a great deal of exercise in the cultivation of their grounds, 
it was not surprising that we found them so athletic and free from 
complaints. When illness does occur, their remedies are as simple 
as their manner of living, and are limited to salt water, hot ginger 
tea, or abstinence, according to the nature of the complaint. They 
have no medicines, nor do they appear to require any, as these 
remedies have hitherto been found sufficient. 

After their noontide meal, if their grounds do not require their 
attention, and the weather be fine, they go a little way out to sea 
in their canoes, and catch fish, of which they have several kinds, 
large and sometimes in abundance ; but it seldom happens that 
they have this time to spare ; for the cultivation of the ground, re- 
pairing their boats, houses, and making fishing-lines, with other em- 
ployments, generally occupy the whole of each day. At sunset 
they assemble at prayers as before, first offering their orison and 
thanksgiving, and then chaunting hymns. After this follows their 
evening meal, and at an early hour, having again said their pray- 
ers, and chaunted the evening hymn, they retire to rest ; but before 
they sleep, each person again offers up a short prayer upon his bed. 

Such is the distribution of time among the grown people ; the 
younger part attend at school at regular hours, and are instructed 
in reading, writing, and arithmetic. They have very fortunately 
found an able and willing master in John Buffet, who belonged to 
a ship which visited the island, and was so infatuated with their 
behaviour, being himself naturally of a devout and serious turn of 
mind, that he resolved to remain among them ; and in addition to 
the instruction of the children, has taken upon himself the duty of 
clergyman, and is the oracle of the community.* During the 

* Another seaman has settled amongst them, and is married to one of Adams's 
daughters ; but he is not liked. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 85 

whole time I was with them I never heard them indulge in a joke, 
or other levity, and the practice of it is apt to give offence : they 
are so accustomed to take what is said in its literal meaning, that 
irony was always considered a falsehood in spite of explanation. 
They could not see the propriety of uttering what was not strictly 
true, for any purpose whatever. 

The Sabbath-day is devoted entirely to prayer, reading, and seri- 
ous meditation. No boat is allowed to quit the shore, nor any work 
whatever to be done, cooking excepted, for which preparation is 
made the proceeding evening. I attended their church on this day, 
and found the service well conducted ; the prayers were read by 
Adams, and the lessons by Buffet, the service being preceded by 
hymns. The greatest devotion was apparent in every individual, 
and in the children there was a seriousness unknown in the younger 
part of our communities at home. In the course of the Litany they 
prayed for their sovereign and royal family with much apparent loy- 
alty and sincerity. Some family prayers, which were thought ap- 
propriate to their particular case, were added to the usual service ; 
and Adams, fearful of leaving out any essential part, read in addi- 
tion all those prayers which are intended only as substitutes for 
others. A sermon followed, which was very well delivered by Buf- 
fet ; and lest any part of it should be forgotten or escape attention, 
it was read three times. The whole concluded with hymns, which 
were first sung by the grown people, and afterwards by the children. 
The service thus performed was very long ; but the neat and clean- 
ly appearance of the congregation, the devotion that animated eve- 
ry countenance, and the innocence and simplicity of the little chil- 
dren, prevented the attendance from becoming wearisome. In about 
half an hour afterwards we again assembled to prayers, and at sun- 
set service was repeated ; so that, with their morning and evening 
prayers they may be said to have church five times on a Sunday. 

Marriages and christenings are duly performed by Adams. A 
ring which has united every person on the island is used for the oc- 
casion, and given according to the prescribed form. The age at 
which this is allowed to take place, with the men, is after they have 
reached their twentieth, and with the women, their eighteenth year. 

All which remains to be said of these excellent people is, that 
they appear to live together in perfect harmony and contentment ; 
to be virtuous, religious, cheerful, and hospitable, beyond the limits 
of prudence ; to be patterns of conjugal and parental affection ; 
and to have very few vices. We remained with them many days, 
and their unreserved manners gave us the fullest opportunity of be- 
coming acquainted with any faults they might have possessed. 

In the equipment of the Blossom, a boat was built purposely for 
her by Mr. Peak of Woolwich dock-yard, upon a model highly 



86 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

creditable to his professional ability, and finished in the most com- 
plete manner. As we were now about to enter a sea crowded with 
islands which rise abruptly to the surface, without any soundings to 
give warning of their vicinity, this little vessel was likely to be of 
the greatest service, not only in a minute examination of the shore, 
but, by being kept a-head of the ship during the night, to give no- 
tice of any danger that might lie in her route. She was according- 
ly hoisted out while we were off this island, and stowed and provis- 
ioned for six weeks. I gave the command of her to Mr. Elson, the 
master, an officer well qualified to perform the service I had in 
view ; having with him Mr. R. Beechey, midshipman, and a crew 
of eight seamen and marines. Instructions were given to Mr. El- 
son for his guidance, and proper rendevous appointed in case of sep- 
aration. We first experienced the utility of this excellent sea-boat, 
in bringing off water from the shore through seas which in ordinary 
cases would have proved serious obstacles ; and had there not been 
so much surf upon the rocks, that the casks could only be got through 
it by the natives swimming out with them, we should in a short 
time have completed our stock of water. This process, however, 
was very harrassing to them, who, besides this arduous task, had to 
bring the water from a distance in calabashes ; so, that with the ut- 
most despatch, our daily supply scarcely equalled the consumption, 
and we were compelled to trust to the hope of being more fortunate 
at some other island. 

During the period of our stay in the vicinity of the island, we 
scarcely saw the sun, and I began to despair of being able to fix our 
position with sufficient accuracy. On the 20th, however, the clouds 
cleared away, and the night was passed in obtaining lunar distances 
with stars east and west of the moon, several meridional altitudes, 
and transits which, compared with those taken the first night the in- 
strument was put up, gave good rates to the chronometers. Our 
labours having thus terminated more successfully than we expected, 
we hastened our embarkation, which took place on the 21st. In 
return for the kindness we experienced from the islanders, we made 
them presents of articles the most useful to them which we could 
spare, and they were furnished with a blue cloth suit each from the 
extra clothing put on board for the ship's company, and the women 
with several pieces of gowns and handkerchiefs, &c. 

When we were about to take leave, our friends assembled to ex- 
press their regret at our departure. All brought some little present 
for our acceptance, which they wished us to keep in remembrance 
of them ; after which they accompanied us to the beach, where we 
took our leave of the female part of the inhabitants. Adams and 
the young men pushed off in their own boat to the ship, determined 
to accompany us to sea as far as they could with safety. They 



1825.] and beering's strait. 87 

continued on board, unwilling to leave us, until we were a consid- 
erable distance from land, when tbey shook each of us feelingly by 
the hand, and, amidst expressions of the deepest concern at our de- 
parture, wished us a prosperous voyage, and hoped that we might 
one day meet again. As soon as they were clear of the ship, they 
all stood up in the boat, and gave vis three hearty cheers, which 
were as heartily returned. As the weather became foggy, the barge 
towed them towards the shore, and we took a final leave of them, 
unconscious until the moment of separation of the warm interest their 
situation and good conduct had created in us. 

The Pitcairn islanders are tall, robust, and healthy. Their av- 
erage height is five feet ten inches ; the tallest person is six feet 
and one quarter of an inch ; and the shortest of the adults is five 
feet nine inches and one eighth. Their limbs are well-proportioned, 
round and straight ; their feet turning a little inwards. The boys 
promise to be equally as tall as their fathers ; one of them whom 
we measured was, at eight years of age, four feet one inch ; and an- 
other, at nine years, four feet three inches. Their simple food and 
early habits of exercise give them a muscular power and activity 
not often surpassed. It is recorded among the feats of strength 
which these people occasionally evince, that two of the strongest 
on the island, George Young and Edward Quintal, have each car- 
ried, at one time, without inconvenience, a kedge anchor, two sledge 
hammers, and and armourer's anvil, amounting to upwards of six 
hundred weight ; and that Quintal, at another time, carried a boat 
twenty-eight feet in length. Their activity on land has been already 
mentioned. I shall merely give another instance which has been 
supplied by Lieutenat Belcher, who was admitted to be the most 
active among the officers on board, and who did not consider him- 
self behindhand in such exploits. He offered to accompany one of 
the natives down a difficult descent, in spite of the warnings of his 
friend that he was unequal to the task. They, however, commec- 
ed the perilous descent, but Mr. Belcher was obliged to confess his 
inability to proceed, while his companion, perfectly assured of his 
own footing, offered him his hand, and undertook to conduct him to 
the bottom, if he would depend on him for safety. In the water 
they are almost as much at home as on land, and can remain nearly a 
day in the sea. They frequently swam round their little island, the 
circuit of which is at least seven miles. When the sea beat heav- 
ily on the island they have plunged into the breakers, and swam to 
sea beyond them. This they sometimes did pushing a barrel of 
water before them, when it could be got off in no other way, and 
in this manner we procured several tons of water without a single 
cask being stove. 

Their features are regular and well-looking, without being hand- 



88 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

some. Their eyes are bright and generally hazel, though in one 
or two instances they are blue, and some have white speckles on 
the iris ; the eyebrows being thin, and rarely meeting. The nose, 
somewhat flat, and rather extended at the nostrils, partakes of the 
Otaheitan form, as do the lips, which are broad, and strongly sulca- 
ted. Their ears are moderately large, and the lobes are invariably 
united to the cheek ; they are generally perforated when young, 
for the reception of flowers, a very common custom among the na- 
tives of the South Sea Islands. The hair, in the first generation, is, 
with one exception only, deep black, sometimes curly, but general- 
ly straight ; they allow it to grow long, keep it very clean, and al- 
ways well supplied with cocoanut oil. Whiskers are not common, 
and the beards are thin. The teeth are regular and white ; but are 
often, in the males, disfigured by a deficiency in enamel, and by be- 
ing deeply furrowed across. They have generally large heads, el- 
evated in the line of the occiput. A line passed above the eye- 
brows, over the ears, and round the back of the head, in a line with 
the occipital spine, including the hair, measured twenty -two inch- 
es ; another, twenty-one inches and three-quarters ; and in Polly 
Young, surnamed Bigheacl, twenty-three inches, — the hair would 
make a difference of about three-quarters of an inch. The coronal 
region is full ; the forehead of good height and breadth, giving an 
agreeable openness to the countenance ; the middle of the coronal 
suture is rather raised above the surrounding parts. Their com- 
plexion, in the first generation, is, in general, a dark gipsy hue : 
there are, however, exceptions to this ; some are fairer, and others 
Joseph Christian in particular, much darker.* 

The skin of these people, though in such robust health, compar- 
ed with our own always felt cold ; and their pulses were considera- 
bly lower than ours. Mr. Collie examined several of them : in the 
forenoon he found George Young's only sixty ; three others, in the 
afternoon, after dinner, were sixty-eight, seventy-two, and seventy- 
six ; while those of the officers who stood the heat of the climate 
best were above eighty. Constant exposure to the sun, and early 
training to labour, make these islanders look at least eight years 
older than they really are. 

The women are nearly as musclar as the men, and taller than 
the generality of their sex. Polly Young, who is not the tallest 
upon the island, measured five feet nine inches and a half. Accus- 
tomed to perform all domestic duties, to provide wood for cooking, 
which is there a work of some labour, as it must be brought from 
the hills, and sometimes to till the ground, their strength is in pro- 

* This man was idiotic, and differed so materially from the others in colour, that 
he is in all probability the offspring of the men of colour who accompanied the 
mutineers to the island, and who, unless he be one, have left no progeny. 



1825.] AND BEERINO'S STRAIT. 89 

portion to their muscularity ; and they are no less at home in the 
water than the men. 

The food of the islanders consists almost entirely of vegetable 
substances. On particular occasions, such as marriages or christen- 
ings, or when visited by a ship, they indulge in pork, fowls, and 
fish. Although, as has already been mentioned, they discovered 
a method of distilling a spirit from the tee-root, the miseries it en- 
tailed on them have taught them to discontinue the use of it, and 
to confine themselves strictly to water, of which during meals, 
they partake freely, but they seldom use it at other times. The 
spirit, which was first distilled by M'Coy, and led to such fatal con- 
sequences, bears some affinity to peat-reeked whisky. 

The treatment of their children differs from that of our own coun- 
try, as the infant is bathed three times a day in cold water, and is 
sometimes not weaned for three or four years ; but as soon as that 
takes place it is fed upon "popoe," made with ripe plantains and 
boiled taro rubbed into paste. Upon this simple nourishment chil- 
dren are reared to a more healthy state than in other countries, and 
are free from fevers and other complaints peculiar to the greater 
portion of the world. Mr. Collie remarks in his journal, that noth- 
ing is more extraordinary in the history of the island than the uni- 
form good health of the children ; the teething is easily got over, 
they have no bowel complaints, and are exempt from those conta- 
gious diseases which affect children in large communities. He of- 
fered to vaccinate the children as well as all the grown persons ; 
but they deemed the risk of infection to be too small to render that 
operation necessary. 

In rainy weather, and after the occasional visits of vessels, the 
islanders are more affected with plethora and boils than at other 
periods ; to the former the whole population appear to be inclined, 
but they are usually relieved from its effects by bleeding at the nose ; 
and, without searching for the real cause, they have imbibed a belief 
that these diseases are contagious, and derived from a communica- 
tion with their visiters, although there may not be a single case of 
the kind on board the ship. The result naturally leads to such a 
conclusion ; but a little reflection ought to have satisfied them, that 
a deviation from their established habits, an unusuar indulgence in 
animal food, and additional clothing, were of themselves sufficient 
to account for the maladies. They are, however, unaccustomed to 
trace effects to latent causes. Hence they assert, that the Briton 
left them headaches and flies; a whaler infected with the scurvy 
(for which several of her crew pursued the old remedy of burying 
the people up to the necks in the earth) left them a legacy of boils 
and other sores ; and though we had no diseases on board the Blos- 
som, they fully expected to be affected by some cutaneous disorder 

VOL. 1. 12 



90 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

after our departure ; and even attributed some giddiness and head- " 
aches that were felt during our stay to infection from the ship's 
company. V 

The women have all learned the art »of midwifery : parturition 
generally takes place during the nighttime ; the duration of labour 
is seldom longer than five hours, and has not yet in any case proved 
fatal. There. is no instance of twins, nor of a single miscarriage, 
except from accident. 

We found upon Pitcairn Island, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit (artocar- 
pus incisa), plantains (musa paradaisacd), bananas (inusa sapien- 
tum), water-melons (cucurbita citrullus), pumpkins (cucurbita pe- 
po), potatoes (solanum esculentum) , sweet potatoes (convolvulus 
batatas), yams (dioscoria sativum), taro (caladium esculentum), 
peas, yappai* (arum costatum), sugar-cane, ginger, turmeric, tobac- 
co, tee-plant*(drac<«Mff terminalis), doodoe* (aleurites triloba), 
nono* (morinda citrifolia), another species of morinda, parau* (hi- 
biscus tiliaceus), fowtoo # (hibiscus tricuspis), the cloth-tree (brous- 
sonetia papyrifera) , pawalla* (pandanus odoratissimus)? toonena* 
(?), and banyan-tree. A species of metrosideros, and several spe- 
cies of ferns. 

The first twelve of these form the principal food of the inhabi- 
tants. The sugar-cane is sparingly cultivated ; they extract from 
it a juice which is used to flavour the tea of such as are ill, by 
pounding the cane, and boiling it with a little ginger and cocoanut 
grated into a pulp, as a substitute for milk. In this manner a pleas- 
ant beverage is produced. The tee-plant is very extensively cul- 
tivated. Its leaves, which are broad and oblong, are the common 
food of hogs and goats, and serve the natives for wrappers in their 
cooking. The root affords a very saccharine liquor, resembling 
molasses, which is obtained by baking it in the ground ; it requires 
two or three years after it is planted to arrive at the proper size for 
use, being then about two inches and a half in diameter ; it is long, 
fusiform, and beset with fibres : from this root they also make a tea, 
which when flavoured with ginger is not unpleasant. The doodoe 
is a large tree with a handsome blossom, and supplies ornaments for 
the ears and hair, and nuts containing a considerable quantity of oil, 
which, by being strung upon sticks, serve the purpose of candles. 
The porou and fowtoo are trees which supply them with fishing- 
lines, rope, and cord of all sorts. The tree is stripped of the bark 
while the sap is in full circulation, and dried ; a fibrous substance is 
then procured from it, which is twisted for use ; but it is not strong, 
and is very perishable. 

* Native names. — A more correct account of the botany will be published by Dr. 
Hooker, Professor of Botany, &c. of Glasgow. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 91 

The cloth-tree is pre-eminently useful ; and here, as in all places 
in the South Seas, where it grows, supplies the natives with cloth- 
ing. The manner in which the cloth is manufactured has been fre- 
quently described, and needs no repetition. There is however, a 
fashion in the beater, some preferring a broad, others a very closely 
ribbed garment ; for which purpose they have several of these in- 
struments with large and small grooves. If the cloth is required to 
be brown, the inner bark of which the cloth is made is wrapped 
in banana leaves, and put aside for about four days ; it is then beat- 
en into a thick doughy substance, and again left till fermentation is 
about to take place, when it is taken out, and finally beat into a 
garment, both lengthwise and across. The colour thus produced is 
of a deep redish brown hue. The pieces are generally sufficiently 
large to wrap round the whole body, but they are sometimes di- 
vided. 

The toonena is a large tree, from which their houses and canoes 
are made. It is a hard, heavy, red-coloured wood, and grows on 
the upper parts of the island. There was formerly a great abund- 
ance of this wood, but it is now become so scarce as to require con- 
siderable search and labour to find sufficient to construct a house. 
The young trees have thriven but partially, arriving at a certain 
growth, and then stopping. A tree of this kind, which was the 
largest in the island, measured, at the time of our visit, twelve feet 
in circumference ; another was nine feet seven and a half inches in 
girth, at five feet from the root ; its trunk grew to the height of thir- 
ty feet, perfectly straight, and without branching. 

The banyan is one of those largest spreading trees common in 
India. Nature has been so provident to this island, that there are 
very few trees in it which cannot be turned to account in some way, 
and this tree, though it yields no fruit and produces wood so hard 
and heavy as to be unserviceable, still contributes to the assistance 
of the islanders, by supplying them with a resin for the seams of 
their boats, &c. This useful substance is procured by perforating 
the bark of the tree, and extracting the liquor which exudes through 
the aperture. 

We saw dyes of three colours only in Pitcairn Island, yellow, 
red, and brown. The yellow is procured from the inner bark of 
the root of the nono tree (morinda citrifolid), and also from the 
root of a species of ginger. We did not see this plant growing, but 
it was described as having leaves broader and longer than the com- 
mon ginger, a thicker root in proportion to its length, a darker hue, 
and not so tubercular. The red dye is procured from the inner 
bark of the doodoe tree, and may have its intensity varied by more 
or less exposure to the rays of the sun while drying. These dyes' 
are well coloured, but for want of proper mordants the natives can- 



92 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

not fix them, and they must be renewed every time the linen is 
washed. The method of producing the brown dye has already 
been described. 

The temperate climate of Pitcairn Island is extremely favourable 
to vegetation, and agriculture is attended with comparatively light 
labour. But as the population is increasing, and wants are genera- 
ted which were before unthought of, the natives find it necessary 
to improve their mode of culture ; and for this purpose they make 
use of sea-weed as manure. They grow but one crop in a year of 
each kind. The time of taking up yams, &c. is about April. 
The land is not allowed time to recover itself, but is planted again 
immediately. Experience has enabled them to estimate, with tol- 
erable precision, the quantity that will be required for the annual 
consumption of the island ; this they reckon at 1000 yams to each 
person. The other roots, being considered more as luxuries, are 
cultivated in irregular quantities. The failure of a crop, so exactly 
estimated, must of course prove of serious consequence to the col- 
ony, and much anxiety is occasionally felt as the season approaches 
for gathering it. At times cold south-westerly winds nip the young 
plants, and turn such as are exposed to them quite black : during 
our visit several plantations near the sea-coast were affected in this 
manner. At other, times,' caterpillars prove a great source of an- 
noyance. 

The yam is reproduced in the same manner as potatoes in Eng- 
land. The taro (caladium esculentuni) requires either a young 
shoot to be broken off and planted, or the stem to be removed from 
the root, and planted after the manner of raising pine-apples. The 
yappe is a root very similar to the taro, and is treated in the same 
manner. All the above-mentioned farinaceous roots thrive ex- 
tremely well in Pitcairn Island ; but this is not the case with Eng- 
lish potatoes, which cannot be brought even to a moderate growth. 
Peas and beans yield but very scanty crops, the soil being probably 
too dry for them, and are rarely seen at the repasts of the natives. 
Onions, so universally dispersed over the globe, cannot be made to 
thrive here. Pumpkins and water-melons bear exceedingly well, 
but the bread-fruit, from some recent cause, is beginning to give 
very scanty crops. This failure Adams attributes to some trees 
being cut down, that protected them from the cold winds, which is 
not improbable, for at Otaheite, where the trees are exposed to 
the south-west winds, the crops are very indifferent. Having 
given this short sketch of the soil and vegetation of the island, I 
shall add a few words on the climate and winds. 

The island is situated just without the regular limit of the trade- 
winds, which, however, sometimes reach it. When this is the 
case, the weather is generally fine and settled. The south-west 



1825.] AND BEERINC 3 S STRAIT. 93 

and north-west winds, which blow strong and bring heavy rains, 
are the chief interruptions to this serenity. Though they have a 
rainy season, it is not so limited or decided as in places more within 
the influence of the trade-winds. During the period of our visit, 
from the 5th of December to the 21st, we had strong breezes from 
N. E. to S. E.j with the sky overcast. The wind then shifted to 
N. W.j and brought a great deal of rain : though in the height of 
summer, we had scarcely a fine day during our stay. 

The temperature of the island during the above period was 70 
1-2°. On shore the range from nine A. m. to three p. m. was 
76° to 80° : on board at the same time from 74° to 76°. Taking 
the difference between these comparisons, we may place the mean 
temperature on shore for the above-mentioned period at 76 1-2°. 
In the winter the south-westerly winds blow very cold, and even 
snow has been known to fall. 

The number of persons on Pitcairn Island in December, 1825, 
amounted to sixty-six, and for the information of such as may be 
disposed to give their particular attention to such an inquiry, I sub- 
join a notice of the population from the period of its first establish- 
ment on the island. 

Males. Females, 

The first settlers consisted of . . < w , * e , ' g jo 

27 Total. 15 12 

Of these were killed in the quarrel . < coloured" 6 

by accident . . white . 1 3 

died a natural death . . 1 3 

1 went away. ; Total deaths 14 6 

The original settlers therefore whom we found on the \ -, ,. 

island were S 

The children of the white settlers (the men of colour * ,^ ,^ 

having left none) $ 

Their grandchildren 22 15 

Recent settlers 2 

Child of one of them 1 

66 present population. 36 30 



The total number of children left by the white settlers was four- 
teen, of whom two died a natural death ; one was seized with fits, 
to which he was subject, while in the water, and was drowned ; 
and one was killed by accident, leaving ten, as above. Of the 
grandchildren, or second generation, there was also another male 
who died an accidental death. There have, therefore, been sixty- 



94 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

two births in the period of thirty-five years, from the 23d January, 
1790, to the 23d December, 1825, and only two natural deaths. 

In a climate so temperate, with but few probabilities of infec- 
tion, with simple diet, cleanly habits, moderate exercise, and a 
cheerful disposition, it was to be expected that early mortality 
would be of rare occurrence ; and accordingly we find in this 
small community that the difference in the proportion of deaths to 
births is more striking than even in the most healthy European 
nations. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 95 



CHAPTER V. 



Visit Oeno Island — Description of it — Loss of a boat and one Seaman — Narrow es- 
cape of the Crew — Crescent Island — Gambier Groupe — Visited by Natives on 
Rafts — Discover a passage into the Lagoon — Ship enters — Interview with the Na- 
tives — Anchor off two Streams of Water — Visited by the Natives — Theft — Com- 
munication with them suspended — Morai — Manner of preserving the Dead- 
Idols and Places of Worship. 

As soon as Adams and his party left us we spread every sail in 
the prosecution of our voyage, and to increase our distance from a 
climate in which we had scarcely had the decks dry for sixteen 
days ; but the winds were so light and unfavourable, that on the 
following morning Pitcairn Island was still in sight. The weather 
was hazy and moist, and the island was overhung with dense 
clouds, which the highlands seemed to attract, leaving no doubt 
with us of a continuation of the weather we had experienced while 
there. At night there was continued lightning in this direction. 
Several birds of the pelican tribe (jpelicanus leucocephalus) settled 
upon the masts, and allowed themselves to be taken by the sea- 
men. 

About ninety miles to the northward of Pitcairn Island there is 
a coral formation, which has been named Oeno Island, after a whale 
ship, whose master supposed it had not before been seen ; but the 
discovery belongs to Mr. Henderson of the Hercules. It is so low 
that it can be discerned at only a very few miles' distance, and is 
highly dangerous to a night navigation. As this was the next island 
I intended to visit, every effort was made to get up to it ; and at 
one o'clock in the afternoon of the 23d December it was seen a lit- 
tle to leeward of us. We had not time to examine it that evening, 
but on the following morning we passed close to the reefs in the ship, 
in order to overlook the lagoon that was formed within them, and 
to search narrowly for an opening into it. While the ship took one 
side of the island, the barge closely examined the other, and we soon 
found that the lagoon was completely surrounded by the reef. 
Near the centre of it there was a small island covered with shrubs ; 
and towards the northern extremity, two sandy islets a few feet 



96 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

above the water. The lagoon was in places fordable as far as the 
wooded island; but, in other parts, it appeared to be two or three 
fathoms deep. The reef is entirely of coral formation, similar to 
Dude's Island, and has deep water all round it. Just clear of the 
breakers there are three or four fathoms water ; the next cast finds 
thirteen fathoms ; then follow rapidly thirty fathoms, sixty fathoms, 
and no bottom at a hundred fathoms. We found the south-western 
part of the reef the highest, and the lagoon in that direction nearly 
filled up as far as the island with growing coral. There were, of 
course, no inhabitants upon so small a spot ; nor should we have 
been able to communicate had there been any, in consequence of a 
surf rolling heavily over all parts of the reef, and with such unequal 
violence that the treacherous smoothness would one moment tempt 
a landing, while the next wave, as we unfortunately experienced, 
would prove fatal to any boat that should hazard it. 

Lieutenant Belcher was sent to ascertain the depth of water round 
the island, with permission to land if unattended with danger ; and 
Mr. Collie accompanied him, Mr. Barlow being midshipman of the 
boat. Pulling round the island, they came to a place where the 
sea appeared tolerably smooth, and where in the opinion of the of- 
ficers a landing might be effected. The boat was, accordingly an- 
chored, and Messrs. Belcher and Collie prepared to land, by veer- 
ing the boat into the surf, and jumping upon the reef. They had 
half filled two life-preservers, with which they were provided, when 
Mr. Belcher observed a heavy roller rising outside the boat, and 
desired the crew to pull and meet it, which was done, and success- 
fully passed ; but a second rose still higher, and came with such 
violence that the sitters in the stern of the boat were thrown into 
the sea ; a third of still greater force carried all before it, upset 
the boat, and rolled her over upon the reef, where she was ulti- 
mately broken to pieces. Mr. Belcher had a narrow escape, the 
boat being thrown upon him, the gunwale resting upon his neck 
and keeping him down ; but the next sea extricated him, and he 
went to the assistance of his companions ; all of whom were fortu- 
nately got upon the reef, except one young lad, who probably be- 
came entangled with the coral, and was drowned. The accident 
was immediately perceived from the ship, and all the boats sent to 
the assistance of the survivors. But the surf rolled so furiously 
upon the shore as to occasion much anxiety about rescuing them. 
At last a small raft was constructed, and Lieuteuant Wainwright 
finding no other means of getting a line to them, boldly jumped 
overboard, with a leadline in his hand,* and suffered himself to be 
thrown upon the reef. By this contrivance all the people were got 
off, one by one, though severely bruised and wounded by the coral 
and spines of the echini. 



1825.] and beering's strait. 97 

Mr. Belcher had here another escape, by being washed off the 
raft, his trousers getting entangled in the coral at the bottom of a 
deep chasm. Fortunately they gave way, and he rose to the sur- 
face, and by great effort swam through the breakers. Lieutenant 
Wainwright was the last that was hauled off. To this young offi- 
cer the greatest praise is due for his bravery and exertions through- 
out. But for his resolution, it is very doubtful whether the party 
would have been relieved from their perilous situation, as the tide 
was rising, and the surf upon the reef momentarily increasing. In 
the evening we made sail to the westward, and on the 27th saw 
Crescent Island ; and shortly afterwards the high land of Gambier's 
groupe. 

Both these islands were discovered by Mr. Wilson during a mis- 
sionary voyage, but he had no communication with the natives. 
The first was so named in consequence of its supposed form ; but 
in fact it more nearly resembles an oblong. It is exactly three 
miles and a half in length, and one and a half in width, and of sim- 
ilar formation to Oeno and Ducie's Islands. It consists of a strip 
of coral about a hundred yards or less in width,, having the sea on 
one side and a lagoon on the other. Its general height is two feet 
above the water. Upon this strip several small islands, covered 
with trees, have their foundation. The soil, where highest, reaches 
just six feet above the sea ; and the tops of the trees are twenty feet 
higher. We saw about forty naked inhabitants upon this small spot ; 
but from the mast-head of the boat, which overlooked the land, 
could perceive no cultivation ; and there were no fruit-trees upon 
the island but the pandanus, which has not been mentioned in any 
voyage that I am acquainted with as constituting a food for the na- 
tives of these seas ; indeed, from the fibrous nature of the nut it 
bears, it did not appear to us possible that it could be serviceable 
as food. We were consequently curious to know upon what the 
natives subsisted, independently of the shell-fish which the reefs 
supplied ; but nothing occurred to satisfy us on that head. The 
surf was too high for the boats to land, and our only communica- 
tion was by signs and an exchange of sentences unintelligible on 
both sides. 

Upon the angles of the island there were three square stone huts, 
about six feet high, with a door only to each ; they did not appear 
to be dwelling houses, and were probably places of interment or of 
worship. Several sheds thatched with the boughs of trees, some 
open on one side only and others on both, which were seen on dif- 
ferent parts of the island, were more appropriate residences in such 
a climate. 

The natives were tall and well-made, with thick black hair and 
beards, and were very much tattooed. Their signs intimated a dis- 

VOL. 1. 13 



98 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

position to be friendly, and an invitation to land, which we could 
not do ; but none of them ventured to swim off to the boats, prob- 
ably on account of the sharks, which were very numerous. 

We quitted Crescent Island at day-light on the 29th, and about 
noon the same day were close off Gambier's groupe. Several of 
of these islands had a fertile appearance, especially the largest, on 
which is situated the peak we had seen the day before, and which 
Mr. Wilson, in passing to the northward of the groupe, named 
Mount Duff, It was probable, that among these islands we should 
find a stream of water from which our stock might be replenished, 
provided an opening through the reef which surrounds the volcanic 
islands could be found ; and as it was of the highest importance that 
our wants in this respect should be supplied, I determined closely 
to examine every part of the groupe for an entrance ; for in the 
event of not being so fortunate as to succeed here, it would be ne- 
cessary to alter the plan of operations, and proceed direct to Ota- 
heite, the only place where a supply of that indispensable article 
could be depended upon. On approaching the island, with the 
ship, we were gratified by perceiving that the coral chain, which to 
the northward was above water, and covered with trees, to the 
southward dipped beneath it ; and though the reef could be traced 
by the light blue-coloured sea, still it might be sufficiently covered 
to admit of the ship passing over it, and finding an anchorage in the 
lagoon. As we were putting off from the ship in the boats to make 
this interesting inquiry, several small vessels under sail were observ- 
ed bearing down to us. When they approached we found they 
were large katamarans or rafts, carrying from sixteen to twenty men 
each. At first several of them were fastened together, and consti- 
tuted a large platform, capable of holding nearly a hundred persons ; 
but before they came near enough to communicate they separated, 
furled their sails, and took to their paddles, of which there were 
about twelve to each raft. We were much pleased with the man- 
ner of lowering their matting sail, diverging on different courses, and 
working their paddles, in the use of which they had great power, 
and were well skilled plying them together, or, to use a nauctical 
phrase, keeping stroke. They had no other weapons but long 
poles ; and were quite naked, with the exception of a banana leaf 
cut into strips, and tied about their loins, and one or two persons 
who wore white turbans. Their timidity in approaching both the 
ship and the barge was immediately apparent ; but they had no ob- 
jection to any of the small boats, which they were probably aware 
they could, if necessary, easily upset when within their reach ; and, 
indeed, it required considerable caution to prevent any such an oc- 
currence, not from any malicious intention on the part of the na- 
tives, but from their thoughtlessness and inquisitiveness. I ap- 



1825.] and beering's strait. 99 

proached them in the gig, and gave them several presents, for which 
they, in return, threw us some bundles of paste tied up in large 
leaves. Not knowing at first what it was, I caught it in my arms, 
and was overpowered with an .ordour that made me drop it instant- 
ly. They made signs that it was to be eaten, and we afterwards 
found it was the common food of the natives. It was what is called 
mahie at the Marquesas, but with a higher gout than I ever heard 
that article possessed in those islands, and very much resembled 
the first opening of a cask of sour krout, though considerably more 
overpowering. We soon perceived they had a previous knowledge 
of iron, but they had no idea of the use of a musket. When one 
was presented to induce them to desist from their riotous conduct, 
instead of evading the direction of the fatal charge, they approach- 
ed it ; and imagining the gun was offered to them, they innocently 
held out their- hand to accept it. Before we came close to them, 
they tempted us with cocoanuts and roots, performed ludicrous 
dances, and invited our approach ; but as soon as we were within 
reach, the scene was changed to noise and confusion. They seiz- 
ed the boat by the gunwale, endeavoured to steal every thing that 
was loose, and demanded whatever we held in our hand, without 
seeming in the least disposed to give any thing of their own in re- 
turn. At length some of them grasped the boat's yoke, which was 
made of copper, and others the rudder, which produced a scuffle, 
and obliged me to fire my gun over their heads. Upon the dis- 
charge, all but four instantly plunged into the sea ; but these, though 
for a moment motionless with astonishment, held firmly by the rud- 
der, until they were rejoined by their companions, and then forcibly 
made it their prize. We could only have prevented this by the 
use of fire-arms, but I did not choose to resort to such a measure 
for so trifling an end, especially as the barge was approaching, and 
afforded the most likely means of recovering our loss without the 
sacrifice of life on their part, or the risk of being upset on our own. 
As I intended to remain some days at these islands, I wished by all 
means to avoid a conflict : at the same time it was essential to our 
future tranquillity to show a resolution to resist such unwarrantable 
conduct, and to convince them of our determination to enforce a re- 
spect of property. As soon, therefore, as we were joined by the 
barge, we grappled the raft that contained our rudder ; on which 
the greater part of the natives again threw themselves into the sea ; 
but those who remained appeared derermined to resist our attack, 
and endeavoured to push the boat off. Finding, however, they 
could not readily do this, a man whose long beard was white with 
age offered us the disputed article, and we were on the point of re- 
ceiving it, which would have put an end to all strife, when one of 
the natives disengaged the raft, and she went astern. Again free* 



100 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

the rudder was replaced on the raft, and the swimmers regained 
their station. They were followed by the gig and jolly-boat, and a 
short skirmish ensued, in which Mr. Elson fell. The boat's crew 
imagining him hurt, and seeing the man he had been engaged with 
aiming another blow at him, fired and wounded his asssailant in the 
shoulder. The man fell upon the raft, and his companions, alarm- 
ed, threw the rudder into the sea and jumped overboard. As this 
man took a very leading part, he was probably a chief. No other 
wound was inflicted, nor did this happen before it was merited ; 
for our forbearance had extended even beyond the bounds of pru- 
dence ; and had less been evinced, we should sooner have gained 
our point, and probably have stood higher in the estimation of our 
antagonists. After this rencountre, some of the rafts again paddled 
towards us, and waved pieces of white cloth; but the evening being 
far spent, and anxious to find anchorage for the ship, I proceeded to 
examine the islands. We passed the bar, formed by the chain before- 
mentioned dipping underwater, in five, or seven, and eight fathoms, 
over a rugged coral bottom, and entered the lagoon, gradually deep- 
ening the water to twenty-five fathoms. There was a considerable 
swell upon the shallow part of the reef, but within it the water was 
quite smooth. The first island we approached had a bay formed 
at its eastern angle, where the ship might ride in safety with almost 
all winds. Night coming on we anchored the boat upon the bar, 
and caught a large quantity of fish, consisting of several sorts of 
perca (yittata, maculata), a labrus, and many small sharks. After 
daylight we returned to the ship, and in the evening anchored in 
the spot we had selected the day before. As we entered the bay, 
the natives were observed collected upon a low point, at one ex- 
tremity of it, hallooing and waving pieces of white cloth. Almost 
all of them had long poles, either pointed or tipped with bone. 
Some had mats thrown over their shoulders, and their heads and 
loins covered with banana leaves cut into strips. They were much 
startled at the noise occasioned by letting go the anchor, and at the 
chain-cable running out, and gazed intently at the different evolu- 
tions necessary to be gone through in bringing the ship to an an- 
chor, in furling sails, &c. 

No person came on board that night ; but daylight had scarcely 
dawned when one of the natives paddled off to the ship upon a small 
katamaran : he was quite naked had only a pole and a paddle on the 
raft. For a considerable time he hesitated to come alongside ; but 
on our assurring him, in the Oteheitan language, we were his friends 
he was persuaded to make the attempt. After a little further con- 
ciliation he made his raft fast by a rope that was thrown to him, 
and ascended the side of the ship, striking her several times with 
his fist, and examining her at every step. His surprise on reach- 



1825.] and beering's strait. 101 

ing the deck was beyond all desrcription ; he danced, capered, and 
threw himself into a variety of attitudes, accompanying them with 
vehement exclamations ; and entered into conversation with every 
person, not suspecting that his language was unintelligible ; and was 
so astonished at all he saw, that his attention wandered from object 
to object without intermission. He very willingly accepted every 
present that was offered him ; and having satisfied himself of our 
friendly disposition, hastened on shore to his companions, who were 
collected in great numbers upon the low point, anxiously awaiting 
his return. The report which he gave was undoubtedly of a fa- 
vourable nature, as several katamarans, laden with visiters, immedi- 
ately pushed off, and came fearlessly alongside. 

The decks were soon crowded with delighted spectators, won- 
dering at every thing they beheld, and expressing their feelings by 
ludicrous gestures. The largest objects, such as the guns and spars, 
greatly attracted their attention : they endeavoured to lift them, 
with a view, no doubt, of bundling them overboard ; but finding 
they could not be moved, -the smaller articles became the more im- 
mediate subjects of curiosity and desire, and it required a vigilant 
watch to prevent their being carried off. They were pleased with 
many articles that were shown them ; but nothing made them so 
completely happy as the sight of two dogs that we had on board. 
The largest of these, of the Newfoundland breed, was big and surly 
enough to take care of himself ; but the other, a terrier, was snatch- 
ed up by one of the natives, and was so much the object of his so- 
licitation that it was only by force he was prevented carrying him 
away. To the people who had never seen any quadruped before 
but a rat, so large an animal as a Newfoundland dog, and that per- 
fectly domesticated and obedient to his master, naturally excited 
intense curiosity, and the great desire of these people to possess 
themselves of it is not to be wondered at. Had there been a female 
dog on board, they certainly should have had them both ; but one 
would have been of no use, except, probably, to furnish a meal, 
which is the fate of all the rats they can catch. 

One of the rafts that came off to the ship, a smaller one than 
any of the others, brought a person of superior appearance ; his 
complexion was much fairer than his countrymen, and his skin beau- 
tifully tattooed ; his features were of the true Asiatic character : he 
had long black mustaches and hair, and wore a light turban, which 
gave him altogether the appearance of a descendant of Ishmael. It 
was natural to infer that this was a person of some authority ; for as 
yet we had seen no distinction whatever between our visiters, ex- 
cept that some were more unruly than others ; but we found we 
were mistaken : he mingled indiscriminately with his companions, 
and was deficient in those little points which are inseparable from a 



102 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

person accustomed to command. Indeed, by the total disregard 
they paid to each other, as also to every person in the ship, we 
might have concluded that our visiters were ignorant of any distinc- 
tions in society. 

Among the many katamarans that came .off, not one of them 
brought any articles to give or sell, which did not argue much in 
favour of the supplies of the place, or the good will of the islanders. 
A green banana, lying upon one of the rafts, was the only eatable 
thing among them, excepting some boiled tee-root, and bundles of 
that execrable paste, which they had provided for their own break- 
fast. Almost all our visiters were naked, with the exception of a 
girdle made of a banana leaf, cut into strips, which by no means an- 
swered our idea of the intended purpose. Maros were worn only 
by the aged, and instead of them ligatures of straw were applied in 
the manner described at St. Christina and Nukahiwa.* The ave- 
rage height of the islanders was five feet nine ; they were, gener- 
ally speaking, well made, their limbs round, without being muscu- 
lar, and their figure upright and flexible. Tattooing was very ex- 
tensively practised, in which respect, as also in the arrangement of 
the lines, they again reminded us of the Marquesans. This gen- 
eral practice in the South Seas, when judiciously executed, besides 
having its useful effects, is highly ornamental. In the Gambier Is- 
landers there is a greater display of taste than I have seen or heard 
of any where else, not excepting the Marquesans : but the Nuka- 
hiwers, as well as the Otaheitans and others, attend principally to 
device ; whereas the Gambier Islanders dispose the lines so as ma- 
terially to improve the figure, particularly about the waist, which at 
a little distance, has the appearance of being much smaller than it 
really is. Whether this has been accidental or designed we had no 
opportunity of learning. 

The number of visiters on board was considerable; yet there was 
very little to interest us beyond the first gratification of our curios- 
ity. They were so engrossed by their own efforts to purloin some 
of the many things which they saw, that it was impossible to engage 
their attention in other matters. It was besides necessary to keep 
so strict a watch over the stores of the ship, and their conduct was 
so noisy and importunate, that our desire for their company was 
hourly lessened, and we were not sorry when, on preparing the boats 
to land, we saw the rafts put off from the ship, and every man upon 
our decks throw himself into the sea and swim ashore. 

On approaching the beach, we found the coral animals had rear- 
ed their structure all round the island, and had brought it so near 
to the surface that the large boats could not come within two hun- 

* Krusenstern's Embassy to Japan, 4to. 



1825.] AND BEKRINC.'s STRAIT. 103 

dred yards of the landing-place, and the smaller ones could approach 
only by intricate windings between the rocks. 

The natives were very numerous upon the shore the usual pop- 
ulation being greatly increased by parties which curiosity had brought 
from the other islands. The women and children at first formed 
part of the noisy multitude, all of whom were clamorous for us to 
effect a landing ; but the females shortly retired out of sight, and 
the men formed themselves into two lines, and ceremoniously pro- 
ceeded to a place where their katamarans usually disembarked, hum- 
ming in chorus a sullen tune not devoid of harmony. Some of them 
seeing we were greatly impeded by the coral rocks, waded out and 
laid hold of the boats, while others pushed offupon rafts, and attempt- 
ed to drag us in, by fixing their poles under the seats of the boat, 
and pressing upon the gunwale as a fulcrum ; an ingenious contri- 
vance, from which w T e found it difficult to free ourselves, especially 
as the poles were very large. Others, again, prepared cords to fas- 
ten the boats to their raft, unconscious of our possessing any instru- 
ment sufficiently sharp to disengage them. In short, they were de- 
termined we should land ; but as I did not like the place, and as 
their conduct appeared to be a repetition of what we had experi- 
enced outside the harbour, we disappointed their expectations, and 
went to the next island. 

We were there joined by some of our visiters who had been on 
board the ship, who reminded us of our former acquaintance, and 
greeted us with a hearty rub of their noses against ours. This sal- 
utation, it was thought by some of us, sealed a friendship between 
the parties ; but we had not sufficient opportunity of ascertaining 
whether it was considered inviolable. The manner of effecting this 
friendly compact is worthy of description. The lips are drawn in- 
ward between the teeth, the nostrils are distended, and the lungs 
are widely inflated ; with this preparation^ the face is pushed for- 
ward, the noses brought into contact, and the ceremony concludes 
with a hearty rub, and a vehement exclamation or grunt : and in 
proportion to the warmth of feeling, the more ardent and disagreea- 
ble is the salutation. 

Finding, from communication with our friends, that water was to 
be had at Mount Duff, we quitted them and crossed to that point, 
where we had the satisfaction to see two streams trickling down the 
sides of the hill, either of them sufficiently ample for our purpose, 
and so situated that the ship could, if necessary, be placed near 
enough to cover the parties sent to procure it. This gratifying dis- 
covery was of the greatest importance, and the ship was immediate- 
ly removed to a convenient spot opposite the place. 

We were late getting across the lagoon from our first anchorage,^ 
in consequence of the necessity of proceeding with the utmost caution 



104 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

to prevent striking upon rocks of coral, which were numerous, and 
in some instances rose from twenty-eight fathoms to within twelve 
feet of the surface ; so that it was dark before the sails were furled, 
and we had no communication with the natives that night. One 
man only, probably by way of ascertaining whether we kept watch, 
paddled silently off upon a small katamaran ; but on being hailed, 
went quietly away. At daylight, the shore opposite the ship was 
lined with the natives, and katamarans commenced coming off to 
her laden with visiters, who, encouraged by their former reception, 
fearlessly ascended the side, and in a short time so crowded the 
decks, that the necessary duties of the crew were suspended. 
Their surprise was, if possible, greater than that of the other 
islanders ; but it did not appear to be excited by any particular ob- 

J ect - . . 

It is said that as a people become civilized, their curiosity in- 
creases. Here, however, it was excited more from a desire to as- 
certain what was capable of being pilfered than from any thirst for 
knowledge. Through this propensity, every thing underwent a rigid 
examination. We had taken the precaution to put all the movea- 
ble articles that could be spared below, and nothing was stolen from 
the upper decks; but in the midshipmen's berth, things had not 
been so carefully secreted, and a soup-tureen, a spyglass, and some 
crockery were soon missing ; the former was detected going over 
the side, and one of the tea-cups was observed in the possession of 
a person swimming away from the ship. This afforded a favoura- 
ble opportunity of showing our determination to resist all such de- 
predations ; and indeed it was absolutely necessary to do so, as every 
person appeared to consider he had a right to whatever he could 
carry away with him ; and the number of our visiters amounted to 
double that of our own crew, so that it was impossible to watch 
every one of them. Besides, this conduct, if not checked in time, 
might lead to serious consequences, which I wished by every means 
to avoid. One of our small boats was consequently sent in pursuit 
of the thief, who was swimming at a considerable rate towards a raft 
with his prize in his hand. His countrymen, observing that he was 
pursued, would not permit him to mingle with them, lest they should 
participate in the blame ; but he eluded detection by diving under- 
neath their rafts, until he became exhausted, when he threw the cup 
to the bowman of the boat, and made his escape. Immediately the 
boat was sent off, all the rafts left the ship, and every man upon the 
decks jumped overboard as if by instinct ; but when tranquillity was 
restored, they returned for fresh plunder. The rapidity with which 
the news of a theft spreads among such a community has been no- 
ticed by Captain Cook, and here it was no less remarkable. 

I determined, since the main deck was cleared, that it should be 



1826.] and beering's strait. 105 

kept so, and placed a marine at each of the ladders; but as the na- 
tives tried every method to elude their vigilance, the sentinels had 
an arduous task to perform, and disturbances must inevitably have 
arisen in the execution of their orders had it not been for our New- 
foundland dog. It fortunately happened that this animal had taken 
a dislike to our visiters, and the deck being cleared, he instinctively 
placed himself at the foot of the ladder, and in conjunction with the 
little terrier, who did not forget his perilous hug of the day before, 
most effectually accomplished our wishes. The natives, who had 
never seen a dog before, were in the greatest terror of them ; and 
Neptune's bark was soon found to be more efficacious than the point 
of a sentry's bayonet, and much less likely to lead to serious distur- 
bances. Besides, his activity cleared the whole of the main deck 
at once, and supplied the place of all the sentinels. The natives 
applied the name of boa to him, a word which in the Otaheitan lan- 
guage properly signifies a hog. But it may be observed that boais 
applied equally to a bull, or to a horse, (which they call boa-afae- 
taata, literally, man-carrying pig), or to all foreign quadrupeds. 

Upon one of the rafts which came alongside there was an elderly 
man with a grey beard, dressed in white cloth. The paddles of his 
raft were of superior workmanship to the others, and had the ex- 
tremity of the handle ornamented with a neatly carved human hand. 
He carried a long staff of hard black wood, finely polished, widen- 
ed at one end like a chisel. But though he was thus distinguished, 
he exercised no authority over his unruly countrymen. Several of 
the people upon the rafts had provided themselves with food, which 
consisted of boiled root of the tee-plant, of pearl oysters, and the 
sour pudding before-mentioned. We endeavoured to tempt them 
to taste some of our food ; which they willingly accepted, but de- 
clined to partake of it, and placed it upon the raft, with nails, rags, 
and whatever else they had collected. A piece of corned beef that 
was given them passed from hand to hand with -repeated looks of 
inquiry, until it was last deposited in the general heap. I took some 
pains to explain to them it was not human flesh, which they in all 
probability at first imagined it to be ; and from their behaviour on 
the occasion I think it quite certain they are not cannibals. 

As the curiosity of one party of our visiters became satisfied, they 
quitted the ship, and others supplied their place. One of these fa- 
voured us with a song, which commenced with a droning noise, the 
words of which we could not distinguish ; they then gave three 
shouts, to which succeeded a short recitation, followed by the dron- 
ing chorus and shouts as before. In this manner the song proceed- 
ed, each recitation differing from the former, until three shouts, 
louder than the others, announced the finale. The singers arranged 
themselves in a semicircle round the hatchway, and during the per- 

VOL. I. 14 



]Q6 voyage to the pacific [Jan. 

formance pointed to the different parts of the ship, to which their 
song was undoubtedly applicable ; but it was impossible to say in 
what way, though I have every reason to believe it was of a friendly 
nature. 

While the decks were so crowded with visiters, the duty of water- 
ing the ship could not be carried on, and it was of the greatest con- 
sequence that it should be got through speedily, as the boats were 
required to survey the groupe, upon which I could not bestow many 
days. My hope was, that the natives would quit us as their curios- 
ity became satisfied, especially as they had nothing to barter, except 
some sour paste, which, being extremely unpalatable to every one 
on board, was not marketable. After breakfast, two small boats, 
the only ones we had in repair, were equipped for landing, and the 
barge was ordered to be in attendance ; for though there was every 
reason to expect a friendly reception, yet in a country where the 
language is not understood, and among a barbarous people, whose 
principal aim is plunder, it is extremely difficult to avoid disputes, 
especially when the force to which they are opposed is greatly in- 
ferior to their own. We felt the loss of the cutter at this moment, 
-as she was a boat so much better calculated for the service we had 
to perform than the gig or whale-boat. 

As we had anticipated, the boats had no sooner put off from the 
ship, than all the natives quitted her as before, and joined their com- 
panions on shore, who were assembled in a wood skirting the beach. 
At the approach of the boats, there was much bustle among the 
trees ; every one appeared to be arming himself, and many who had 
long poles broke them in halves to supply those who had none. 
These preparations made it necessary to be cautious how the boats 
were placed in their power, as they were small, and easily upset, 
and the natives very numerous. We found the shore, as at the 
other island, surrounded by coral rocks, upon which the boats groun- 
ded about two hundred yards from the beach, and they could not 
advance without imminent danger of being stove. The natives, 
whose rafts drew so little water that they could be floated over these 
impediments, could not understand our motives in delaying, or search- 
ing for any other place than that to which they had been accustom- 
ed, and kept continually vociferating "Ho-my 1 Ho-my !" It was 
natural that they, ignorant of the cause, should suppose we had 
other things in view than that of landing; and one ofthemwhohad 
received a bottle as a present from some of our people, imagining 
we were come in search of it, ran into the water as far as he could, 
holding it up at arm's length, and when he could advance no farther, 
threw it towards the boat, and, in spite of our signs for him to keep 
it, he followed the boats, and kept throwing the bottle towards us, 
until he found it was of no use. 



1826.] and beebing's strait. 107 

A short distance below the place where the multitude were as- 
sembled, the rocks admitted a freer access to the shore than above, 
and we effected a landing. 

Directly the boats touched the beach, one of the natives who was 
near them took off his turban and waved it to his countrymen, who 
instantly answered the signal with a shout, and rushed towards the 
spot. The foremost of their party stopped within a short distance 
of us until the crowd came up to him, and then advanced and sa- 
luted Mr. Belcher, who was unarmed, by rubbing noses. Observ- 
ing there was some distrust of a fowling-piece which I held in my 
hand, I placed it against a rock for an instant among our own party 
while I advanced a step to salute a person who appeared to be the 
leading man of the islanders. The opportunity this afforded the na- 
tives of indulging their favourite propensity was not overlooked ; 
and one of them, regardless of all risk, thrust himself between our 
people, snatched up the gun, and, mingling with the .mob with the 
greatest adroitness, succeeded in making his escape. The crowd 
instantly fled into the wood, and along the beach, but shortly rallied, 
and with loud shouts advanced upon us, until the discharge of a 
carronade from the barge, which was fortunately near, put them to 
flight The man who had sealed the compact of friendship, if so 
indeed it be, by rubbing noses, sat quietly upon a large stone close 
to us during this affair, as if he relied upon the pledge that had 
been given for his security. It would have been treacherous, and 
perhaps pregnant with serious evils to them and to ourselves, had any 
violence been offered, or any thing done that might appear like an 
infringement of this understanding, or I should certainly have de- 
tained his person, in the hope of the gun being returned. As it 
was, I allowed him to go quietly away. 

The boats were at this time unavoidably very awkwardly sit- 
uated, by being aground upon the rocks, and in a situation from 
which it would have been extremely difficult to extricate them, had 
a determined attack been made by the natives. The consequences 
in that case would have been very serious ; though their weapons 
consisted only of long poles and bone-headed spears, yet they were 
sufficiently powerful, from their numbers alone, to have rendered 
the most determined defence on our part doubtful. 

As soon as we were free, we followed the natives along the beach, 
approaching them, whenever the rocks would allow, to offer terms 
of reconciliation : but our overtures were answered only by showers 
of stones. This conduct, which we now began to think was only a 
part of their general character, rendered it extremely difficult, nay 
almost impossible, to have any dealings with them without getting 
into disputes. No time, place, or example, made any difference in 
the indulgence of their insatiable propensity to theft, Explanations, 



103 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

and threats, which in some instances will prevent the necessity of 
acting, were unfortunately not at our command, in consequence of 
our ignorance of their language, and the only option left us was to 
yield up our goods unresistingly, or inflict a more severe chastise- 
ment than the case might deserve. Captain Cook, who managed 
the natives of these seas better than any other navigator, pursued a 
system which generally succeeded, though in the end it cost him 
his life. It was rigid, but I am certain it was better adapted to pre- 
serve peace than the opposite plan adopted by Perouse, at Easter 
Island, who, though one of the most enlightened navigators, was, of 
all, the most unfortunate. 

To seize one of the natives, or upon something that was of more 
value to them than the goods they had stolen, was the most effect- 
ual way of recovering what was lost, and by adopting this mode of 
proceeding might prevent a recurrence of such a circumstance ; I 
consequently took away a net and some rafts that were lying upon 
the shore. The net was about forty feet in length, made with the 
bark of the porou tree (hibiscus tiliaceus), precisely in the same, 
manner as our seins are, but weighed with stones and rounded pieces 
of coral instead of lead. To obtain possession of these articles 
without strife, it was necessary to drive away a party that was seat- 
ed upon a large tree near them, and a carronade was fired over 
their heads : but of this they took no notice, probably considering 
themselves safe at so great a distance, and having had no experience 
to the contrary, supposed that such weapons were caculated only to 
intimidate by noise. The next gun dispersing the sand amongst 
them, they speedily resigned their seats, and with all the inhabitants 
went to the upper village. After this our communicaton was for a 
time suspended, as the natives kept aloof, and the boats were re- 
quired to proceed with the watering. 

At daylight on the 2d of January, we commenced filling our casks 
from two good streams, which supplied water much faster than it 
could be got off. 

We perceived the natives collected in a large body at the village, 
and soon afterwards some men stole along the beach to reconnoitre 
the watering party ; but they were prevented offering any molesta- 
tion by a gun being fired from the ship. On this day I observed 
the old custom of taking possession of the groupe, and hoisted the 
English ensign upon the shore, turned a turf, and sowed several use- 
ful seeds, which it is to be hoped will spring up to the benefit of the 
natives. I named the island on which Mount Duff stood, after my 
first Lieutenant, Mr. Peard, and the others in succession, Belcher, 
Wainwright, Elson, Collie, and Marsh, after the other officers, and 
the lagoon in which the ship was anchored after herself. 

Before our party reached the shore the next morning, one of the 



1826.] and beering's strait. 109 

natives was perceived carrying off a small cask that had been left 
there the preceding night. We watched him through our teliscopes 
and observed him conceal it with a large mat Avhich he carried with 
him. He had doubtless no suspicion that his actions could be ob- 
served at so great a distance, as he began to retrace his steps along 
the open beach ; but seeing he was not sufficiently quick to escape 
the boats that were going on the shore, he quitted his prize, and hid 
himself in the wood. The watering had not long been renewed be- 
fore a large party collected upon the height above, headed by two 
men, who appeared to be chiefs, clad in loose white turbans and 
cloaks : the eldest led the party cautiously down the hill, and made 
a stand at a large stone, which one of his party ascended, and there 
waved a banana leaf. We answered this friendly signal by wav- 
ing in return a white flag from the ship : but here our amity ended ; 
for while this was going forward the other chief stood upon the ridge, 
and beckoned to the natives on the other side of the hill to join him, 
which greatly augmented his numbers ; and some of them loosened 
large stones, apparently with a view of annoying our watering party, 
who were so situated under the hill that a few such fragments pre- 
cipitated upon them would cause very serious mischief. As there 
was every appearance of treachery, the boats were put upon their 
guard by signal ; but the barge mistaking its purport, fired two shot 
to dislodge the islanders, both of which, to their great astonishment, 
fell very close to them, and induced them to retire to the other side 
of the ridge. Some, however, had the curiosity to return and ex- 
amine the place, and, after a little digging, found one of the shot, 
which they carried to their comrades, many of whom assembled 
round the prize, never probably having so large a piece of iron in 
their possession before. 

At noon on the 5th the watering was completed, and without any 
accident or sickness, which, considering the difficulty of getting the 
casks off, and the constant exposure of the seamen to a vertical sun 
while in the water, there was every reason to apprehend. It was 
further satisfactory to find that this service had been effected with- 
out any harm to the natives, except in one instance, when a marine 
inconsiderately fired at a party who were lurking in the wood, and 
wounded one of them in the foot. From the disposition of the in- 
habitants, and the superiority of their numbers, there was reason to 
apprehend a different result; and the quietness with which it was 
conducted must be attributed to their being kept at a distance du- 
ring its performance. 

The boats were now sent to survey the groupe, and were kept 
constantly employed upon it from daylight to dusk. In the course 
of this examination every part was visited, and we had frequent 
communication with the natives, who on such occasions were al- 



110 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

ways civil, and brought such supplies of fruit and food as their scanty 
means afforded, and generally abstained from the indulgence of their 
propensity for thieving, which when numerous they so fully indulg- 
ed. Their behaviour was indeed so different from what it had been, 
that we must attribute it to the operation of fear, as their numbers 
were then very small, in consequence of our visits being unexpect- 
ed and the population of each village very limited. The net we had 
taken off the shore was carried round to the principal village and of- 
fered in return for the articles that had been stolen, but whether our 
meaning was understood or not, they were not produced. 

This village is situated in a bay, at the eastern foot of Mount 
Duff, and is rendered conspicuous by a hut of very large dimensions 
which we shall describe hereafter, and by a quadrangular building 
of large blocks of coral erected in the water, at a few yards' distance 
from the shore, which appeared to us to be a morai. Upon its 
northern extreme stood a small hut, planted round with trees, which 
it was conjectured contained images and offerings ; but, as the door 
was closed, and the natives were watching us, we would not exam- 
ine it. Contiguous to it there was a body placed upon boards, 
wrapped in thick folds of paper cloth : and, not far from it, another 
enveloped in a smaller quantity of the same material. There was 
no offensive smell whatever from either of these corpses, though 
the one last mentioned did not appear to have been long exposed. 
The heads of both were lying to the N. E. ; both bodies were more 
abundantly surrounded by cloth than any we had seen here ; and 
from the nature of the platform on which they were placed, which 
must have required considerable labour to construct, we concluded 
they were the bodies of chiefs ; and we were, on that account, more 
tenacious of subjecting them to the scrutiny our curiosity prompted, 
lest the natives should suppose we were offering them some indignitiy. 
An old man whom we interrogated as to the nature of the building 
gave us no information : but looked very serious whenever he was 
referred to the place, and seemed disposed to believe we were in- 
clined to place his body there to keep the others company. 

Though we were prevented from examining these mummies by 
the watchfulness of the natives, we were more successful at the isl- 
and to the eastward, off which we first anchored. We there found 
six bodies under a projecting part of a cliff, which overhung them 
sufficiently to protect them from the inclemency of the weather. 
Above them we noticed a child suspended by a string round its waist 
tied to a projecting crag. The bodies of the adults were placed 
parallel, with their heads to the N. E., as in the other instance. 
They were wrapped first in cloth, then in matting, and again cov- 
ered over with thick folds of cloth secured by a small cord lashing. 
Mr. Collie, the surgeon, made an incision into the stomach of one 



1826.] and beeking's strait. Ill 

of the newest mummies, which appeared the most hardened, and 
found the membraneous part of the abdomen, dried and shrivelled 
up, enclosing an indurated earthy substance, which at first induced 
him to believe it had undergone the process of enbalming ; but find- 
ing afterwards membranes and earthy matter within a cranium sim- 
ilarly dried, and knowing that there was no way in which any ex- 
traneous substance could have been introduced there, except by the 
vertebral canal, he was induced to alter his opinion, which, he says, 
had nothing to support it, but the idea that putrefaction must have 
taken place without some counteracting agent. This complete de- 
siccation of the human frame is not unfrequent in these seas, nor 
indeed in other places ; but requires considerable care and atten- 
tion to do it effectually. The method formerly pursued at Ota- 
heite, was to keep the corpse constantly wiped dry, and well lubri- 
cated with cocoa-nut oil. Our intercourse with the Gambier Isl- 
anders did not afford vis the opportunity of ascertaining if this were 
their practice also, but we noticed the precaution of exposing the 
bodies upon frames three or four feet above the ground, that the 
air might freely circulate about them, and of keeping them well cov- 
ered with folds of cloth. It is remarkable that none of these had 
any offensive smell, not even those that had been recently exposed 
upon the drying-board. Lieutenant Belcher, whose duty carried 
him a great deal about the islands, saw some bodies that were ex- 
posed to dry, covered with a matted shed to protect them from the 
rain ; and in one he found the head and right arm separated from 
the trunk, wrapped in separate pieces of cloth, and secured by a 
lashing to the body. On no part of the shore did we see skulls or 
bones exposed and heaped together, as about the morais common to 
Polynesia ; and although Mr. Belcher found some human bones 
partly burned lying loose upon a rock, together with a body depos- 
ited in the grave with a wicker-work frame over it, there is every 
reason to believe that these exposures are very rare indeed, and 
that almost all the bodies are wapped in cloth, and deposit- 
ed as first described. This custom furnishes a satisfactory reason 
for the cloth being so scarce ; and though we cannot commend their 
policy in clothing the dead at the expence of the living, yet they 
must be allowed the merit due to their generosity and respect for 
their departed friends. 

On the 7th I visited a village at the south extremity of Belcher 
Island. It was situated in a little bay, at the foot of a ridge of hills 
which intersected the island. We were received by about a dozen 
men and women, who behaved in a very friendly manner, and 
brought down cocoa-nuts (some of which, by the by, had been pre- 
viously emptied of their contents), sugar-cane, tee-roots, one bunch 
of bananas, and several clusters of pandanus nuts ; these they threw 



112 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

into the boat without soliciting any return ; and, what is more ex- 
traordinary, without evincing any desire to steal. All the men then 
quitted us, excepting one, who was anxious that we should land. 
Two of these females behaved in a manner which attracted atten- 
tion, although we could not account for their conduct '; they waded 
out to the boats, crying most piteously, striking their breasts, and 
pulling their hair, which hung loose over their shoulders, with eve- 
ry demonstration of the deepest distress ; and, to our surpsise, threw 
their arms round our necks, and hugged us so close that we could 
not disengage ourselves form their embrace without violence. As 
we were quite unconscious of the nature of their grief, we could of- 
fer them no consolation beyond that of kindness, and giving them 
some beads and trinkets. After a few minutes they disengaged 
their arms, began dancing, laughing, and saluting us occasionally 
with a rub of the nose : in the midst of this mirth they would sud- 
denly relapse into grief, and throw their arms about in a frantic way, 
until I began to fear they might injure themselves ; but this parox- 
ysm was as short as that of the mirth by which it was succeeded ; 
they again began to dance, and were afterwards quite cheerful. 
The only cause to which we could attribute this extraordinary con- 
duct, or at least for the melancholy part of it, was that they might 
in some way be connected with the man who had been wounded 
upon the raft. And if this were the case, it affords a presumption 
that the custom of self-mutilation on such occasions, so common 
to many of the islands in the Pacific, does not exist here. 

As the sun went down the natives pointed to it, and signified to 
us to be gone, exclaiming "Bobo mai." We got from them a few 
articles of manufacture, very similar to those of Pitcairn Island. 
In return for these we made them useful presents, and took our 
leave with the promise of "Bobo mai," which w r e understood to 
mean " come to-morrow." We rowed round the rest of the island, 
and soon satisfied ourselves of its extreme poverty. There were 
two villages upon its western side, situated in deep sandy bays, 
which would form excellent harbours for shipping, if they could be 
entered ; but this is impracticable from the many corol knolls on 
the outside. 

Lieutentant Belcher describes a morai, which he visited, in the 
following manner. A hut, about twenty feet in length by ten wide, 
and seven high, with a thatched roof, of which the eaves were three 
feet from the ground, contained the deity. There were only two 
apertures, about two feet six inches square, furnished with thatch- 
ed shutters. In front of the building, a space about twenty feet 
square was paved with hewn coral slabs, with curbstones at the edges, 
as neatly fitted as the pavements in England. Along the whole 
length of the interior of the hut was a trough elevated about three feet 



1826.] and beering's strait. 113 

from the ground ; in the center of which was an idol three feet high, 
neatly carved and polished ; the eyebrows were sculptured, but not 
the eyes ; and from the manner in which the muscles were denned 
it was evident that these people were not regardless of the anato- 
my of the figure. It was placed in an upright position on the trough or 
or manger, and fastened by the extremities to the side of the hut : the 
head was bound with a piece of white cloth, as were also the loins, and 
those parts which the natives themselves never conceal, the aged 
excepted. In the trough beneath the image were several paddles, 
mats, coils of line, and cloth, offerings which had been made to the 
deity ; and at his feet was placed a calabash, which the natives said 
contained water, " avy." On each side of the image was a stand, 
having three carved arms, to the hands of which several articles 
were suspended, such as carved cocoa-nut shells, and pieces of 
bamboo, perhaps musical instruments ; but Mr. Belcher abstained 
from trespassing on this sacred ground, for fear of giving offence to 
the natives, who did not much like this exercise of curiosity. In- 
deed, the whole time he was there, the women were anxious to get 
him away, and the men looked serious, and were very glad when 
he left the place. The females accompanied him to the threshold 
of the morai ; but the men studiously avoided treading upon the sa- 
Cred pavement, and knelt down the whole time he was there, with- 
out however, any apparent devotion. Mr. Belcher endeavoured to 
purchase this idol ; but valuable as his offers must have been to 
these poor people, the temptation did not prove sufficient. An- 
other image about the same size was found upon one of the coral 
islands of the groupe, clothed in the same way, but more rudely 
carved, and deficient in the offerings above-mentioned. 



VOL. I. 15 



114 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Second interview with the Natives — Visit to the principal Village — Bodies exposed 
to dry — Areghe or Chief— Lieutenant Wainwright attacked by Natives — Advant- 
age of the Port — Further Description of the Island, its Soil and Productions. 

On the afternoon of the 8th, we again landed under Mount Duff, 
to try the feeling of the natives. Our party was not large, and we 
carefully avoided every thing that might appear offensive, carrying 
with us a white flag upon a staff. One man only, at first, ventured 
near us, rubbed noses, and received several presents, with which he 
was highly delighted. His companions, who, during the interview, 
had been peeping from behind the trees, noticing his friendly re- 
ception, laid aside their weapons, came out of the wood, and salut- 
ed us in their usual manner singing, as they approached, the chorus 
we had heard on board, which strengthened our opinion of its being 
a song of welcome. 

The next day I landed with a party in the bay where the princi- 
pal village is situated, and was met at the landing-place, which was 
about half a mile from the village, by two or three men who rubbed 
noses, and seemed glad to see us. They took us by the arm and 
conducted us to the village along a narrow pathway, through long 
grass and loose stones, overshadowed by a wood of bread-fruit and 
cocoa-nut trees. In this distance we passed a few patches of culti- 
vation, but they were rare, and indicated very little attention to ag- 
riculture. The natives increased greatly in numbers as we advanc- 
ed, and all were officious to pay us attention, and assist us to the 
village : they were armed, yet their manner showed it was, as with 
us, only a precautionary measure : nothing in appearance could ex- 
ceed their amicable behavior. We had each two or more friends, 
who officially passed their arms under ours, helped us over the 
stones, and conducted us along the right pathway to the village ; a 
species of escort, however, which, by depriving us of the use of our 
limbs, placed us entirely in their power. We passed several huts 
open on the south side, and one, which was full of fishing-nets, clos- 
ed up ; near these there were two bodies wrapped in a great many 






1826.] and beering's strait. 115 

cloths, exposed upon stalls raised about a yard from the ground, 
and supported upon forked props. 

The natives were unwilling that we should touch any of these, 
and we did not offend them by so doing, but approached within a 
few feet to ascertain whether there were any offensive smell from 
the corpse, but none could be discerned. 

Further on we came to an open area, partly paved with blocks 
of coral, and divided off from the cultivated land by large slabs of 
the same material very evenly cut, and resembliug those at the 
Friendly Islands. At one end of this area stood the large hut which 
had before excited our curiosity : it was about thirteen yards in 
length by six or seven in width, and proportionably high, with a 
thatched roof. On the south side it was entirely open, and the 
gables nearly so, being constructed with upright poles, crossed by 
smaller ones, forming an open frame-work, through which the sea 
breeze circulated, and refreshed the area within. Beneath the roof 
on the open side, about four feet within the eaves, there was a low 
broad wall well constructed with blocks of coral, hewn out and put 
together in so workmanlike a style, and of such dimensions, as to 
excite our surprise, how, with their rude instruments, it- could have 
been accomplished. The blocks were five feet long by three wide, 
and one foot thick ; and were placed upon the narrow edge in a 
manner in which we traced a resemblance to the walls in Hapae, 
as described by Captain Cook. Upon this eminence was seated a 
venerable looking person about sixty years of age, with a long beard 
entirely grey ; he had well-proportioned features, and a command- 
ing aspect ; his figure was rather tall, but lassitude and corpulency 
greatly diminished his natural stature ; he was entirely naked ex- 
cept a maro, and a crown made from the feathers of the frigate-bird, 
or black tern ; his body was extensively tattooed, and from the 
loins to the ankles he was covered with small lines, which at a dis- 
tance had the appearance of pantaloons. Long nails, and rolls of 
skin overhanging his hips, pointed out his exemption from labour, 
and an indulgence in luxuries which in all probability attached 
to him in virtue of his birthright. He was introduced to us as an 
areghe or chief ; he did not rise from his seat, but gave the nasal 
salutation in his squatting posture, which in the Friendly Islands is 
considered a mark of respect. 

An exchange of presents succeeded this meeting. Some scarlet 
cloth, which I had brought on shore for the purpose, was placed 
over his shoulders, and closed by a buckle in front, which delighted 
the subjects as much as the chief, who, in return, presented me with 
his crown, and intimated that I should wear it by placing it upon 
my hat. This friendly understanding I endeavoured to turn to our 
advantage by making him understand, as well as I could by signs 



116 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jail. 

and Otaheitan words, that we would barter articles we had brought 
with us for fruit and vegetables ; and in the hope of this being ac- 
ceded to, we waited longer at the village than we should otherwise 
have done ; but the only answer we got was "Bobo mai," which 
from the Otaheitan vocabulary we should interpret " Here to-mor- 
row ;" but its application in the Gambier groupe was so various as 
to leave us much in doubt whether they were not disposed to turn 
our imperfect use of it to their own advantage. Our visit to the 
village brought a great accession to its usual inhabitants, and several 
hundred people had collected about us, but the greatest order pre- 
vailed ; nor did their curiosity to scrutinize our persons once lead 
them to acts of rudeness, notwithstanding we were the first Euro- 
peans that had ever landed on their island. Indeed, throughout this 
visit, or at least until we were coming away, there was a marked 
improvement in their behaviour ; not a single act of theft was at- 
tempted, while, on the contrary, one of honesty occurred, which, 
as it is the only instance I have to record, must not be omitted ; 
— it consisted in restoring to one of our officers a handkerchief which 
he left at a place where he had been sitting. This propriety of con- 
duct no doubt originated in the strictness of the discipline which we 
observed towards them., It certainly did not proceed from the ex- 
ample of the chief, for the only act of acquisitiveness from which we 
had reason to apprehend any dispute proceeded from that personage 
himself. To oblige him, I had consented to his looking into the 
bag of presents, with which he became so enamoured that he re- 
tained it in his grasp, and once or twice endeavoured to appropriate 
it to himself by force. 

We had not remained many minutes in the hut where we were 
first introduced, when the areghe rose, and, taking me with him, went 
to a large stone, in the centre of the paved area, where we both sat 
down, and were immediately surrounded by some hundreds of his 
subjects. The exchange of place was by no means agreeable, as 
we quitted a cool and refreshing retreat for a spot scarcely screened 
from a scorching sun by a few scanty leaves of the bread-fruit tree. 
After being seated here a few minutes, a tall good-looking young 
man was introduced, also as an areghe, to whom the old chief trans- 
ferred the cloth I had given him. I made him in addition a similar 
present, and distributed others of smaller, value to several natives 
around us, in the hope of quieting their solicitations ; but I soon per- 
ceived that this generosity had the opposite effect. 

The young chief was handsomely tattooed ; he had a turban of 
white cloth, and a girdle of bananaleaf as his only covering. He 
was more anxious to communicate with us than the old man ; point- 
ed to the road leading over the hill to a village on the opposite side, 
and made many signs, which we interpreted as promising us the 



1826.] AND BEERlNfi's STRAIT. 117 

restoration of the articles that had been stolen, and also some sup- 
plies; at'the same time he intimated that a person of superior dig- 
nity resided on the other side of the hill. But if this were true, the 
distance was only half a mile, and we remained long enough in the 
village for a person to have traversed it five or six times. We were 
next introduced, by the chief, to several women, who saluted us in 
the usual manner, and thankfully accepted our presents. The chief 
wished me particularly to notice one of them, a fine tall woman about 
thirty-five years of age, with sharp black eyes, long black hair, rather 
sunburnt, white and even teeth, a complexion lighter than the gene- 
rality of her countrywomen, and with a good-natured countenance 
which the coarseness of feature only prevented being pretty. She 
had an armlet tattooed on each arm, and was without any other or- 
nament whatever ; her ears even were not pierced for the reception 
of rings. Her dress consisted of a piece of white cloth wrapped 
round the hips, and another round the waist below the breast, which 
was exposed. There was something commanding in her manner, 
and from her intimacy with the chief she was evidently a person of 
superior rank. She addressed her conversation to me with a volu- 
bility and earnestness which showed she felt confident of being un- 
derstood, but I regret that our total ignorance of their language de- 
nied me the pleasure of interpreting even one word ; and I could 
only infer from her tears and actions, that her tale was of a serious 
and distressing nature. She soon however dried her tears, and sat 
beside us with the greatest composure. 

While I was engaged with the chief, the officers strolled about, 
each accompanied by a circle of friends, , and were kindly treated. 
Mr. Belcher, in his researches, discovered three drums, very simi- 
lar to those at Otaheite, as described by Captain Cook. The lar- 
gest was about five feet six inches high, and fourteen inches in diam- 
eter. It was made of the trunk of a poroutree (hibiscus tiliaceus), 
hollowed out, and covered with a shark's skin, which had been 
strained over it when wet ; the edges were secured with sinnet, 
neatly made, and finished with pieces of cloth plaited in with fine 
line ; it was otherwise ornamented about the trunk, and stood upon 
four feet. It was brought to me, and I offered the areghe some 
knives in exchange, which he refused until the number was increas- 
ed. When the bargain was concluded, the young chief showed the 
manner of playing upon the instrument, and convinced us that his 
skill must have been the result of long practice. — The art consisted 
in giving rapid strokes with the palm of the right hand, and. placing 
the left at the same time so nicely as to check the vibrations with- 
out stopping them, which produced a harmonic sound, differing from 
that of any instrument of the kind I had ever heard. 

The other drums were about three feet and a half in height by 



118 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jail. 

nine inches in diameter, similar in other respects to the large one. 
The proficiency in execution to which the natives had attained, and 
the perfection in the manufacture of these instruments, leave little 
doubt of their taking much delight in the amusement of dancing, 
though, generally speaking, they do not appear to be a lively peo- 
ple. I used every endeavour, but in vain, to persuade the areghe 
to favour us with one of these exhibitions, and among others, I made 
the marines go through some of their manoeuvres, in the hope that 
he would exhibit something in return ; this, however, had a very 
different effect from what was intended ; for the motions of the ma- 
rines were misinterpreted, and so alarmed some of the bystanders, that 
several made off, while others put themselves into an attitude of de- 
fence, so that I speedily dismissed the party. 

This interview was deficient in those ceremonies which threw 
such a lively interest over the voyages of Captain Cook, and, what 
was equally mortifying to us, it did not obtain those supplies of fruit 
and vegetables which generally attended his visits ; although we wait- 
ed a considerable time in the hope of inducing the chiefs to come on 
board the ship, and in the expectation of some supplies before we 
quitted them, but to no purpose. I therefore summoned our party 
together, and we took leave of the chiefs, both of whom retired, 
leaving us in the hands of the mob. On removing the drum which 
had been sold by the areghe, two of the natives laid violent hands 
upon it, and demanded something more than had been given. To 
avoid disturbance I complied with their request by doubling the 
original sum ; but this, so far from securing the drum, rendered the 
probability of our obtaining it without force more remote. 1 brought 
the old chief back to explain the matter to him, but he showed no 
disposition to interfere ; and foreseeing the consequence of persist- 
ing, I left our purchase in the hands of the islanders, disgusted 
with their dishonesty and cunning. 

On our return, about two o'clock in the afternoon, we observed 
the meals of the natives laid out upon tables, made of slabs, raised 
about a yard from the ground, and standing in the middle of the pa- 
ved areas in front of the huts. These tables again resembled those 
in the Friendly Islands, and the execrable sour pudding tied up in 
bundles with banana-leaves, of which the fare of the -natives con- 
sisted, is the same as the mahie used there, at Otaheite, and at the 
Marquesas, &c; but in flavour it more immediately reminded us of 
the Nukahiwans. 

We found fewer companions in our retreat from the village than 
at our introduction to it, and were attended by three individuals 
only, who had attached themselves to some officers, though many 
followed at a distance. I was a little behind the party, when a man 
whom I did not recollect to have seen before, grasped me by the 



1826.] and beering's strait. 119 

arm in which I held my gun, with a feigned view of helping me over 
the rugged path, while a second, putting his arms across, stopped 
up the road ; several others, at the same time, joined in the demand 
of ' Homy ! homy !' and prepared us for what shortly took place. 
I managed to get rid of my unruly assistants without force, and join- 
ed the marines ; but Lieutenant Wainwright (who, unknown to us 
all, was left in the village, ignorant of our having quitted it until in- 
formed by one of the natives), was not so fortunate. He passed 
through the village, where the natives were assembled in circles, 
apparently in debate, without molestation, and in a few minutes 
would have been among our party ; when several of the natives, 
seeing him alone, assailed him, and endeavoured to throw him down 
and rob him. Finding they could not succeed, they attacked him 
with their poles : but he was then fortunately within a short dis- 
tance of us ; and we became for the first time apprised of his dan- 
ger by hearing him call for assistance. Mr. Belcher, and those who 
were nearest, ran to him ; but the islanders assailing them with stones, 
and the attack on their part becoming general, I ordered the marines 
to fire, which put them to flight, and I am happy to say that we 
saw only one of them wounded. 

Thus this interview with the natives terminated in a manner 
which their general conduct might have led us to expect, though 
the result is much to be deplored. It comfirmed my opinion, that 
the natural disposition of the people is highly unfavourable to in- 
tercourse, and that they are restrained from acts of violence and ag- 
gression by the operation of fear alone. With this impression, and 
finding the island so extremely deficient in supplies, that the natives 
could not spare us any thing, I was careless about renewing our vis- 
it, and we embarked without further molestation, and proceeded 
to the ship. 

The bay in which this village is situated lies on the N. E. side of 
Mount DufF; it is bordered by a sandy beach, behind which there 
is a thick wood of bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees ; above it, to the 
left, there is a second or upper village, upon a level piece of ground, 
where the natives retreat in case of necessity. The bay would be 
very desirable for an anchorage, were it not for the coral knolls at 
its entrance, which make the navigation difficult even for a boat. 
After this visit, the boats were again sent surveying ; and on the 
12th we had completed all that our time would admit of, by fixing 
the position of a number of coral knolls which are dispersed over 
the navigable part of the lagoon, the greater part of which may be 
seen from a ship's mast-head before she comes upon them. Our 
only want afterwards was a little fire-wood ; and having noticed sev- 
eral logs lying upon the shore abreast of the ship, Mr. Belcher was 
sent to purchase them. The natives readily disposed of their prop- 



120 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

erty, and were very friendly as long as they were receiving pres- 
ents ; but directly he attempted to take away the trees, the island- 
ers collected in the wood, and pelted the boat's crew with stones. 
Three logs were however got off, and Mr. Belcher was putting in 
for more, when the natives again beginning to throw stones, he de- 
sisted. 

It is to be regretted that the disposition of the natives obstructed 
the friendly intercourse we were anxious to establish. The task of 
correcting their evil propensities unfortunately devolved upon us, as 
the first visiters to the islands ; and we could not prolong our stay, 
or devote the time that was necessary while we did remain, to con- 
ciliate their friendship. But though unsuccessful in this respect, it 
is to be hoped that our visit will prove beneficial to others, by di- 
recting them to a port in which ships may be refitted or repaired, 
and where they may procure a supply of good water, than which 
nothing is more important to the navigation of these seas : as that 
indispensable article is not found to exist in a pure state anywhere 
between Otaheite and the coast of Chili, a distance of 4000 miles, 
Pitcairn Island excepted, where the difficulty of getting it off has 
already been mentioned. It is also presumed, that the position of 
the islands having been ascertained, the peaks of Mount Duff, which 
are high and distinguishable at a great distance, will serve as a guide 
to the labyrinth of coral islands which the navigator, after passing 
this groupe, has to thread on his way to the westward. 

This groupe was discovered by the ship Duff, on a missionary 
voyage, in 1797, and named by Mr. Wilson, her commander, after 
Admiral Lord Gambier. It consists of five large islands and seve- 
ral small ones, all situated in a lagoon formed by a reef of coral. 
The largest is about six miles in length, and rises into two peaks, 
elevated 1248 feet above the level of the sea. These peaks, which 
were called after the Duff, are in the form of wedges, very conspi- 
cuous at a distance, and may be seen fourteen or fifteen leagues. 
All the islands are steep and rugged, particularly Marsh Island, 
which at a distance resembles a ship. The external form of these 
island at once conveys an impression of their volcanic origin ; and, 
on examination, they all appeared to have been subjected to the ac- 
tion of great heat. 

" The general basis of the rocks is a porous basaltic lava, in one 
place passing into a tuffacious slate ; in another, into the solid and 
angular column of compact basalt, containing the imbedded mine- 
rals which characterize that formation, and bearing a close resem- 
blance in this particular to the basaltic formation of the county of 
Antrim in Ireland. There is, however, less of the basalt and more 
of the porous. The zealites, soapstone, chalcedony, olivine, and 
calcareous spar, are formed in, and connect the relationship of these 



1826.] AND BEEIUNO'S STRAIT. 121 

distant formations ; whilst the different-coloured jaspers are peculiar 
to these islands. There is also another obvious distinctive feature 
produced by the numerous dykes of a formation differing in compo- 
sition and texture, and marked by a defined line. They are gene- 
rally more prominent than the common rock: traversing a great many, 
if not all the islands, in a direction nearly east and west ; generally 
about eighteen inches wide, nearly perpendicular to the horizon, or 
dipping to the southward. Their texture is sometimes compact, 
sometimes vesicular, with few if any imbedded minerals, excepting 
one on Marsh Island, which contained great quantities of olivine. 
Upon a small island contiguous to this, the harder dyke crosses the 
highest ridge, and divides on the eastern side into two parts which 
continue down to the water's edge."* 

Lieutenant Belcher, whose scientific attainments also enabled him 
to appreciate what fell under his observation, noticed every where 
the trap formation abounding in basaltic dykes also lying N. E. and 
S. W., and seldom deviating from the perpendicular ; or if they did, 
it was to the eastward. We are indebted to him for specimens of 
zealite, carbonate of lime, calcareous spar, crystals, an alcime, oli- 
vine, jasper, and chalcedony ; and had our stay, and his other du- 
ties admitted, we should, no doubt, have received from him a more 
detailed account of this interesting groupe. 

There are no appearances of pseudo-craters on any of the islands, 
nor do they seem to have been very recently subjected to fire, be- 
ing clothed with verdure, and for the most part with trees. Con- 
spicuously opposed to these lofty rugged formations, raised by the 
agency of fire, is a series of low islands, derived from the opposite 
element, and owing their construction to myriads of minute litho- 
phytes endowed with an instinct that enables them to separate the 
necessary calcareous matter from the ocean, and with such minute 
particles to rear a splendid structure many leagues in circumference. 
A great wall of this kind, if we may use the expression, already 
surrounds the islands, and, by the unremitting labour of these subma- 
rine animals, is fast approaching the surface of the water in all its 
parts. On the N. E. side, it already bears a fertile soil beyond the 
reach of the sea, sustains trees and other subjects of the vegetable 
kingdom, and affords even an habitation to man. 

In the opposite direction it dips from thirty to forty feet beneath 
the surface, as if purposely to afford access to shipping to the la- 
goon within. Whether this irregularity be the consequence of un- 
equal growth, or of the original inclination of the foundation, is a 
question that has excited much interest. All the islands we sub- 
sequently visited were similar to these in having their weather or 

* Mr. Collie's Journal. 

16 




122 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jail. 

eastern side more advanced than the opposite one. The outer side 
of the wall springs from unfathomable depths ; the inner descends 
with a slope to abour 120 or 150 feet below the surface. This ab- 
ruptness causes the sea to break and expend its fury upon the reef 
without disturbing the waters in the lagoon. The coral animals 
consequently rear their delicate structure there without apprehen- 
sion of violence ; and form their submarine grottoes in all the vari- 
ed shapes which fancy can conceive. They have already encircled 
each of the islands with a -barrier, which they are daily extending ; 
and have reared knolls so closely as almost to occupy all the north- 
ern part of the lagoon. More independent tribes are in other parts 
bringing to the surface numerous isolated columns, tending to the 
same end ; and all seem to be going on with such activity, that a 
speculative imagination migh picture to itself at no very remote pe- 
riod, one vast plain covering the whole surface of the lagoon, yield- 
ing forests of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other trees, and ultimately 
sustenance to a numerous population, and a variety of animals sub- 
servient to their use. 

The general steepness of the volcaic islands of thisgroupe is such, 
that the soil finds a resting place on a comparatively small portion of 
them ; and on the coral islands it is scarcely deep and rich enough, 
exposed at it is to the sea air, to contribute much to the support of 
man. A soil formed from the decomposition of the basaltic rocks, 
irrigated by streams from the mountains, requires nothing but a due 
proportion of care and labour on the part of the natives to render 
it very productive. There is, however, a sad neglect in this respect, 
which is the more extraordinary, as there are no quadrupeds or 
poultry on the islands, and without vegetable productions the na- 
tives have only the sea to depend upon for their subsistence. The 
wild productions are a coarse grass (Saccharum fatuuni) , which cov- 
ers such parts of the mountains as are neglected or are too steep for 
cultivation. Lower down we noticed the capparidia, a procum- 
bent pentandrous shrub, the nasturtium, sesuvium of Pitcairn Island, 
the eugenia, and scaevola kosnigii ; and close down to the shore a con- 
volvulus covering the brown rock with its clusters of leaves and pink 
blossoms. The porou and miroe (Thespesia popularia) were more 
abundant, the nono not common. They must also have the auti 
and amia, as their weapons are made of it, though we did not see it. 
The timber of which their rafts are constructed is a red wood, some- 
what porous, and of softer grain than the amai. Some of these 
trunks are so large as at first to excite a suspicion of their having 
been drifted from a more extensive shore ; but the quantity which 
they possess, several logs of which were newly shaped out, affords 
every reason for believing that it is the produce of their own val- 
leys. They are not deficient in variety of edible fruits and roots, 




1826.] and beering's strait. 123 

nor in those kinds which are most productive and nutritious. Be- 
sides the tee-plant, sweet potato, appe, sugar-cane, watermelon, co- 
coa-nut, plantain, and banana, they possess the bread-fruit, which 
in Otaheite is the staff of life, and the taro, a root which in utility 
corresponds with it in the Sandwich Islands. Were they to pay 
but a due regard to the cultivation of the two last of these valuable 
productions, an abundance of wholesome food might be substituted 
for the nauseous mixture mahie, which, though it may, as indeed it 
does, support life, cannot be said to do more. Rats and lizards 
were the only quadrupeds we saw upon the islands. Of the feath- 
ered tribe, oceanic birds form the greater part ; but even these are 
rare, compared with the numbers that usually frequent the islands 
of the Pacific, arising, no doubt, from the Gambier Islands being 
inhabited. The whole consist of three kinds of tern, the white, 
black, and slate-coloured — of which the first is most numerous, and 
the last very scarce : together with a species of procellarria, the 
white heron, and the tropic and egg birds. Those which frequent 
the shore are a kind of pharmatopus, curlew, charadrine, and tota- 
nus ; and the woods, the wood-pigeon, and a species of turdus, 
somewhat resembling a thrush in plumage, but smaller, possessing 
a similar though less harmonious note. The insects found here 
were very few, the, common house-fly excepted, which on almost 
all the inhabited islands in the Pacific is extremely numerous and 
annoying. Of fish there is a great variety, and many are extreme- 
ly beautiful in colour; as well those of large dimensions, which we 
caught with lines, consisting of several sorts of perca, as the numer- 
ous family of the order of branchiostigi, which sported about the 
coral. 

The largest portion of the natives of the Gambier Islands belong 
to a class which Mr. J. R. Forster would place among the first va- 
riety of the human species in the South Seas. Like the generality 
of uncivilized people, they are good-natured when pleased, and 
harmless when not irritated ; obsequious when inferior in force, and 
overbearing when otherwise ; and are carried away by an insatiable 
desire of appropriating to themselves every thing which attracts their 
fancy — an indulgence which brings them into many quarrels, and 
often costs them their lives. If respect for the deceased be consid- 
ered a mark of civilization and humanity, they cannot be called a 
barbarous people ; but they possess no other claims to a worthier 
designation. In features, language, and customs, they resemble the 
Society, Friendly, Marquesa, and Sandwich Islanders ; but they 
differ from those tribes in one very important point — an exemption 
from those sensual habits and indecent exhibitions which there per-! 
vade all ranks. It may be said of the Gambier Islanders what few 
can assert of any people inhabiting the same part of the globe — that 



124 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan- 

during the whole of our intercourse with them we did not witness an 
indecent act or gesture. There is a great mixture of feature and of 
colour among them ; and we should probably have found a differ- 
ence of dialect also, could we have made ourselves masters of their 
language. It seems as if several tribes from remote parts of the Pa- 
cific had here met and mingled their peculiarities. In complexion 
and feature we could trace a resemblance even to the widely separated 
tribes of New Zealand, New Caledonia, and Malacca. Their mode 
of salutation is the same as that which existed at the Friendly, So- 
ciety, and Sandwich Islands : they resemble the inhabitants of the 
latter almost exclusively in tattooing the face, and the inhabitants of 
the former in staining their skin from the hips to the knees. Their 
huts, coral tables, and pavements, are nearly the same as at the 
Friendly Islands and the Marquesas ; but they are more nearly alli- 
ed to the latter by a custom which otherwise, I believe, is at pres- 
ent confined to them, and without a due observance of which, 
Krusenstern says, it is in vain to seek a matrimonial alliance at St. 
Christina.* In the preservation of their dead, wrapping them in an 
abundance of cloth and mats, they copy the Otaheitans and Hapaeans; 
though in the ultimate disposal of them in caves, and keeping them 
above ground, they differ from all the other islanders. Their lan- 
guage and religion are closely allied to several, yet they differ essen- 
tially from all the above-mentioned tribes in having no huge carved 
images surmounting their morais, and no fiatookas or wattas. Un- 
like them also, they are deficient in canoes, though they might easily 
construct them ; they have neither clubs, slings, nor bows and ar- 
rows ; and are wanting in those marks of selfmutilation which some 
tribes deem indispensable on the death of their chiefs or esteemed 
friends, or in cases when the wish to appease their offended deity. 

They are for the most part fairer and handsomer than the Sand- 
wich Islanders, but less effeminate than the Otaheitans. The ave- 
rage height of the men is above that of Englishmen, but they are 
not so robust. One man who came on board measured six feet and 
half an inch, and one on shore six feet, two and a half inches. The 
former measured round the thorax, under the arms, three feet two 
and a half; and a person of less stature three feet one inch. The 
thickest part of the middle of this person's arm, when at rest, was 
eleven inches and three-eighths. These dimensions of girth will, I 
believe, be found less in proportion than those of the labouring class 
of our own countrymen, though the general appearance of these 
islanders at first leads to a different conclusion. They are upright 
in figure, and round, but not robust. In their muscles there is a 
flabbiness, and in the men a laxity of integument, which allows their 

L»-^ » *See Krusenstern's Embassy to Japan. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 125 

skin to hang in folds about the belly and thighs, to a greater degree 
than those I afterwards noticed at Otaheite or Woahoo. Two caus- 
es may be assigned for this; the nature of their food, and their in- 
dolent habits. 

In general the Gambier Islanders have a fine Asiatic countenance, 
with mustachios and beards, but no whiskers ; and when their heads 
are covered with a roll of white cloth, common custom, they might 
pass for Moors. It is somewhat remarkable that we perceived none of 
the fourth class, or those nearly allied to negroes thus habited, but 
that it seemed to be confined to those of the lightest complexion. The 
colour of their eyes is either hazel or dark brown : they are small, 
deep in the head, and have generally an expression of cunning. 
Their eyebrows are naturally arched, and seldom meet in front ; the 
cheek bones are not so prominent as in the fourth class, and the lips 
are thinner ; the ears are moderately large, and the lobes attached 
to the cheek, as in all the Pitcairn Islanders, but not perforated : 
the nose in general is aquiline ; the teeth, in the fourth class espe- 
cially, not remarkable for -evenness or whiteness, and seem to fall 
out at an early period ; the hair is turned back and cut straight, and 
would be quite black, were it less subjected to the sun, or like that 
of the islanders just mentioned, well oiled ; but, exposed as it is to a 
scorching sun, it becomes dried up and of different hues on the same 
head ; and combs being unknown, it is bushy and impervious ; the 
mustachios grow long, but the beards, which are kept from three to 
four inches in length, are sometimes brought to a point, at others 
divided into two ; one man, however, was observed with a beard 
which hung down to the pit of the stomach : the hands are large, 
but the feet small and elegant, and the toes close together, from 
which it is probable that they pass a great portion of their time upon 
their rafts, or idly basking in the sun, — perhaps in lying upon their 
stone pavements like the Hapaeans. The women are below the 
common standard height, and in personal shape and beauty far in- 
ferior to the males. The wife of the chief, who has been already 
described, was the finest woman I saw among them. Her dress 
may be considered a fair specimen of the general covering of the 
women, who have no ornaments of any kind, and appeared quite 
indifferent to the beads and trinkets which were offered them. 

Tattooing is here so universally practiced that it is rare to meet 
a man without it ; and is carried to such an extent that the figure 
is sometimes covered with small checkered lines from the neck to 
the ankles, though the breast is generally exempt, or only orna- 
mented with a single device. In some, generally elderly men, the 
face is covered below the eyes, in which case the lines or net-work 
are more open than on other parts of the body, probably on account 
of the pain of the operation, and terminate at the upper part in a 



126 voyage to the pacific [Jan. 

straight line, from ear to ear, passing over the bridge of the nose. 
With these exceptions, to which we may add the fashion, with some 
few, of blue lines, resembling stockings, from the middle of the thigh 
to the ankle, the effect is becoming, and in a great measure destroys 
the appearance of nakedness. The patterns which most improve 
the shape, and which appear to me peculiar to this groupe, are 
those which extend from the armpits to the hips, and are drawn 
forward with a curve which seems to contract the waist, and at a 
short distance gives the figure an elegance and outline not unlike 
that of the figures seen on the walls of the Egyptian tombs. It 
would be useless to describe the various fanciful attempts to efface 
the natural colour of the skin ; the most common only will be notic- 
ed : — A large cross, about eight inches in diameter, left white on 
each side, on the latissimus dorsi ; and a smaller one on each shoul- 
der, or on the upper part of the arm : also a narrow stripe passing 
from one shoulder to the other in a curved line over the lower part 
of the neck, uniting the tattooing over the fleshy part of the deltoid 
muscle ; and in many so joined as to leave the natural skin in the 
form of a cross in the middle. Imitations of blue pantaloons and 
breeches are also very common, and sleeves which divide at the 
wrist, and extend along the convexity of the metatarsal bones to 
the tips of the fingers and thumbs, leaving a space between the 
thumb and forefinger, on which the mark V is punctured. The 
chief had this mark, the crosses, the slender waist, and the panta- 
loons. The women are very little subjected to this torture. The 
wife of the areghe had an armlet on each arm ; a female who came 
with her had a square upon her bosom, and some few had stock- 
ings. From the circumstance of none of the boys being tattooed, 
it is probable the practice commences here, as in many other isl- 
ands, after puberty. 

The lines in all cases are drawn with great precision, and almost 
always with taste, and bespeak great proficiency. The practice un- 
doubtedly improves the appearance of the figure, and may perhaps, 
as in the Marquesas, distinguish certain classes or tribes. At Ota- 
heite it is supposed to harden the skin, and render it less liable to 
be blistered by the sun. Covering the face with lines is very rare 
in the South Seas, being almost entirely confined, according to 
Cook, to the Sandwich Islanders and New Zealanders. In no "in- 
stance did we observe the lips or tongues tattooed, as is the prac- 
tice with the Sandwich Islanders on the death of an intimate friend. 

I have estimated the number of souls inhabiting these islands at 
1500, from the number and size of the villages. Mr. Collie, who 
estimates them from other data, says, "On the 1st January, when 
the boats went to land, 200 people, for the most part in the prime of 
life were counted on the beach. On the 9th, in the village, we 



1826.] and beering's strait. 127 

enumerated 300 persons, men and women. On both these occa- 
sions it is highly probable that the men in the vigor of life had come 
from the adjoining parts of the island, and from the islands contigu- 
ous. We may then assume, on the nearest approximation to the 
truth, that there were between 250 and 300 males between the 
ages of twenty and fifty — say 275; which according to the most 
accurate census of population and bills of mortality in Sweden and 
Switzerland, where the modifying circumstances are in all probabil- 
ity not very different, would give 1285 for the total number of in- 
habitants." 

The diseases and deformities of these people are very few. Af- 
ter we quitted the islands, the surgeon favoured me with the fol- 
lowing report : — ■ 

"Among more than three hundred men, women, and children, 
who indiscriminately surrounded us at the village on the 9th ; among 
those who had previously come on board, and at other times, whe- 
ther upon the shore or on their rafts ; we saw very few labouring 
under any original deformity or annoying disease. The only case 
of mal-conformation was a wide fissure in the palate of one man, 
whose speech was considerably affected by it. No external mark 
of cicatrization in the upper lip denoted that the internal defect was 
the remains of a hare-lip or any injury. One man had a very un- 
even and ragged stump of the right arm, but without any discharge. 
Another had a steatomatous tumour over one shoulder-blade, about 
the-size of a billiard ball. One disease was so common that I have 
no doubt it was endemic : this was, patches of the lepro vulgaris, 
which being void of any imflammatory appearance, and confined to 
the back in all who were affected with it, and in a considerable pro- 
portion of these to a small space between the shoulders, appeared 
to create no alarm, and most probably called forth no curative ap- 
plication. The frequent and alternate exposure of the men to the 
salt water and rays of the sun, with a scanty supply of the anoint- 
ing oil of the cocoa-nut, would favour the breaking out of this cuta- 
neous affection. The mats which they tied round their necks, and 
frequently allowed to hang down behind, whether through accident 
or design, would tend to avert the effects of exposure. A few had 
lost some of their front teeth ; and we saw one man, on the 9th, 
with two uncicatrized and bare but clean wounds, one before and 
another behind the middle of the right deltoid muscle, where the 
flies were feeding without molestation, and the person seemed al- 
most unconscious of them and of the ulcers. No preternatural tu- 
mefaction denoted any excess of inflammation. No unhealthy hue 
in the countenance of man or woman intimated any internal disease 
lurking within the body." By far the greater part of the males go 
entirely naked, except a girdle, which is made of a banana-leaf split 



128 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

into shreds, and tied round the loins, not intended to answer the 
purpose of concealment ; and they differ from all other inhabitants 
of the Pacific in having no maro. Some wear a turban ; others a 
piece of paper cloth thrown over the shoulders. 

The huts of the Gambier Islanders are so small that they can on- 
ly be intended as sleeping-places during bad weather ; they are in 
length from eight or ten feet to fifteen, excepting the larger houses 
of the areghe ; they are built of the porou wood, and covered in 
with a pointed roof thatched over with the leaves of the palm-tree. 
In some the door is scarcely three feet high, and it is necessary to 
creep on all-fours to enter. On the inside they are neat, and the 
floor is covered with mats or grass. The larger huts of the village 
on Mount Duff are so constructed that one side can be convenient- 
ly removed, by which means they are rendered cool and comfort- 
able. 

The large house, or that of the areghe, was about thirty-nine 
feet in length by eighteen or twenty in width ; the pitch of the roof 
was about twenty-five feet in height, and that of the perpendicular 
sides of the house about ten feet : but these dimensions were ob- 
tained by estimation only, the natives appearing to have an objec- 
tion to our pacing the ground for the purpose of measurement. 
The south side of the house was left open, and the ends were made 
of an open framework of upright poles traversed at right angles by 
smaller spars, so that the roof and the north side were the only 
parts covered in. They served an excellent protection from the 
sun while the trade-wind traversing every corner of the apartment 
rendered it agreeably cool. On that part of the house where the 
side was deficient, there was a foundation for the wall about three 
feet in height thrown up, composed of large blocks of coral, shaped 
in a very workmanlike style, similar to those mentioned by Cook at 
the Friendly Islands, and well put together : it stood about three 
feet within the outer part of the roofing, and served as a seat for the 
chiefs as well as for many others. 

We perceived no furniture in their houses, and some of our offi- 
cers thought it was purposely put out of sight. The only utensils 
were gourds and cocoa-nut shells. The tables were made of slabs 
of coral, or sometimes of wood, in which case they are carved : 
they are about a yard long, and are placed upon wooden or stone 
pedestals sufficiently high to prevent the depredations of the rats. 
They stand in the middle of the paved areas in front of the hous- 
es, from which we infer the practice of eating in the open air. 
Their food has already been described as consisting principally of 
sour paste (the mahie of the Friendly Islands, Otaheite, Marquesas, 
&c), made with plantains, bread-fruit, and boiled tee-root. The 
paste or mahie, when fresh and hot, has not a disagreeable taste ; a 



1826.] and beering's strait. 129 

slight flavour of baked apples may be distinguished : but it soon 
begins to smell very offensively ; so much so, that the seamen 
would not touch it with their hands to throw it overboard. The 
tee-plant (draccena terminalis) is a fusiform root about two feet long, 
and as thick as the arm ; its flavour is not unpleasant, but from its 
coarseness it must, to ordinary stomachs, be very indigestible. The 
natives collect the fibres in their mouths, and spit them out in round 
balls. Fish and shell-fish, of which the large pearl oysters and 
chama are in the greatest abundance, must form a material part of 
the food of these people : they have, besides, the sweet potato, taro, 
and the before-mentioned fruits ; but these cannot be abundant, as 
they never brought any of them to us for sale, and frequently de- 
ceived us with empty cocoa-nuts. 

Their method of procuring fish is by lines and nets, and a con- 
trivance still resorted to in Otaheite, consisting of casting into the 
sea a great many branches of the cocoa-nut tree, and other boughs, 
tied together, and allowing them to remain some time, during which 
the small fish become entangled, and are dragged out with them. 
The nets and lines, as well as cord, sinnet, &c, are all made from 
the bark of the porou, as in all the islands of Polynesia. One net 
which we measured was ninety feet in length. In the manufacture 
of these, they display a greater proficiency than in their cloth, which 
is much inferior to that at Pitcairn Island or Otaheite. Their im- 
plements for this purpose are the same in shape as those at the 
above-mentioned places ; but the one which we got differed in not 
being grooved. 

Their weapons consist of spears, and a staff flattened at the end 
like a whale-lance : they are made of a hard wood highly polished. 
The spears were headed with bone, or the sting rays of the raia 
(pastinea); a custom which once existed at Otaheite, and now ex- 
tends to many of the low islands. The antiquity of this practice is 
traced to very remote periods, as it is said that the head of the 
spear presented by Circe to Telegonus, and with which he uncer- 
emoniously slew his father Ulysses, was of this kind. At Gambier 
Island they remove the heads of the spears when not required, a 
square piece being left at the end of the staff to receive it. Besides 
these weapons, they always carry large sticks. 

Contrary to the general custom, no canoes are seen at Gambier 
Islands, but rafts or katamarans are used instead. They are from 
forty to fifty feet in length, and will contain upwards of twenty per- 
sons. They consist of the trunks of trees fastened together by rope 
and cross-beams : upon this a triangular sail is hoisted, supported 
by two poles from each end ; but it is only used when the wind is 
very favourable ; at which time, if two or three katamarans happen 
to be going the same way, they fasten on and perform their voyage 

VOL. I. 17 



130 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

together. At other times they use very large paddles made of a 
dark hard wood, capable of a good polish, and neatly executed. 
Some of them had a hand or foot, carved at the extremity of the 
handles, very well finished. They are above five feet and a half in 
length, including two feet eight inches of blade, which is about a foot 
in width, curved, and furnished with a small point or nail at the ex- 
tremity. In shallow water they make use of long poles for punting, 
in preference to their paddles. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 131 



CHAPTER VII. 



Quit Garnbier Islands — Visit Lord Hood's Island — Water-Spout — Clermont Tonne- 
re — Description of the Island and Natives, Canoe, &c. — Serle Island — Whitsun- 
day Island — Lagoon Island — Thrum Cap Island — Egmont Island — Discover Bar- 
row Island ; Description of it — Carysfort Island — Discover Cockburn Island — 
Osnaburgh Island — Find the Wreck of the Matilda — Bligh's Lagoon Island — 
Discovery of Byam Martin Island — Meet a Party of Chain Islanders there — Mys- 
tery attached to their History — Take two of them on board the ship — Gloucester 
Island — See Bow Island. 

On the morning of the 13th of January we weighed from Gam- 
bier Islands, and deepened the water so much that, after quitting 
our anchorage, we could get no soundings with the hand-lines until 
near the bar, which was plainly distinguished by its colour long be- 
fore we came upon it. There was not less than seven fathoms 
where we passed, and yet the sea, which rolled in heavily from the 
S. W., all but broke, notwithstanding the wind had been blowing 
strong in the opposite direction for a week before. This effect of 
the prevalent south-westerly gales in the high latitudes, which is 
felt many hundred miles from the place whence it proceeds, occa- 
sions a material obstacle to landing upon the low islands, by rolling 
in upon the shore in an opposite direction to the trade-wind, and 
thereby making it more dangerous to land on the lee-side of the 
island than on the other. In the Gambier groupe there are several 
small sandy islands at the S. W. extremity of the chain that sur- 
rounds it, over which the sea broke so heavily that they were en- 
tirely lost amidst the foam. I named them Wolfe Islands, after Mr. 
Wolfe, one of the midshipmen of the ship. We passed them tol- 
erably close, admiring the grand scene which they presented, and 
then stood on a northerly course with the intention of visiting Lord 
Hood's Island. 

In the forenoon of the following day several white tern, noddies, 
and black gulls came about us, and gradually increased in numbers 
as we proceeded on our course. A few hours afterwards Lord 
Hood's Island was reported from aloft. On nearing it, we found it 
to consist of an assemblage of small islets, rising from a chain of co- 



132 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jail. 

ral, even with, or a little above the water's edge. Upon these 
grew a variety of evergreen trees thickly intertwined, among which 
the broad leaves and clusters of fruit of the pandanus were con- 
spicuous, and beneath them a matted surface of moss and grass, so 
luxuriant and invitingly cool, that we were almost tempted to land 
at any risk. The sea, however, broke so heavily upon all parts of 
the shore that the attempt would have been highly dangerous, and 
we consequently collected all the information that was required, and 
hastened our departure. Krusenstern states in his " Memoire sur la 
Pacifique," that this island is inhabited : such must undoubtedly have 
been the case once, as we saw a square stone hut, similar to those 
described at Crescent Island, on one of its angles ; but there are 
no human beings upon it at present, which indeed we conjectured 
to be the case before our boats made the circuit of it, from the num- 
ber of sea birds in the vicinity, and also from the shoals of sharks 
which followed the boats, and even bit at the oars ; for these ani- 
mals, like most others, seem to have learned by experience to avoid 
the haunts of man. The only living thing seen upon the shore was 
a grey heron gorging itself with black star-fish. 

Lord Hood's Island was discovered by Mr. Wilson in the Mis- 
sionary ship Duff; it is 11.2 miles in length, and 4.7 miles in width, 
in a north and south direction ; and like almost all the coral islands 
it contains a lagoon, and is steep on all its sides. 

After quitting it, we looked in vain, the next day, for an island 
which Mr. Wilson supposed he saw ; but not finding it in or near 
the situation assigned, and he being himself doubtful whether it might 
not have been a cloud, I did not bestow longer time in the search, 
but steered for the island of Clermont Tonnere, which was seen on 
the 18th. This island bore a very close resemblance to Hood's Is- 
land, but was inhabited, and clothed with cocoanut trees. The sea 
broke so heavily upon all parts of the shore that there was no pos- 
sibility of landing in our boats ; yet the natives put off in their ca- 
noes and paddled to us. They were a very inferior race to those 
of the Gambier Islands, and seemed more nearly allied in feature to 
those of Mangea and New Caledonia; yet here also there was 
among them a great diversity of complexion. In one of the canoes 
there was a man nearly as dark as an African negro, with woolly 
hair, tied in a knot like the Radackers ; and another with a light 
complexion, sandy hair, and European features. 

About forty of the natives came down to the beach when we ap- 
proached it, with bunches of feathers and leaves fastened upon sticks, 
and with bludgeons in their hands. Both sexes were naked with 
the exception of their maros, and without any ornaments or tattoo- 
ing. Iron, which they called " toki," was the most marketable arti- 
cle, but the surf was so high that there was very little communica- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 133 

tion with them. The men, who came off to us iri their canoes, 
would not suffer our boats to approach them. After having made 
a number of presents to one of them, we thought we might at least 
examine his canoe ; but he and his comrades paddled away with the 
greatest precipitation, and were so terrified at the approach of the 
boat that they jumped overboard and swam towards the shore. 

The canoe was constructed with small pieces of wood well put 
together and sewed with the bark of a tree, and, like all the single 
canoes of Polynesia, was provided with an outrigger. She carried 
two men, but was propelled almost entirely by one, the other being 
fully occupied in throwing out the water, which came in plentifully 
at both sides and over the stern. Could they have avoided this 
and applied the efforts of both to the paddles, her rapidity would 
have surpassed that of our boat ; but as it was, she was soon over- 
taken. We did not keep these poor fellows longer in the water than 
we could help, but quitted the canoe as soon as we had examined 
its construction, and had the satisfaction to observe them return 
to it, and get in, one at~ a time, at the stern, and then paddled 
ashore. 

The dialect of the people of Clermont Tonnere was quite differ- 
ent from that of the Gambier Islanders, though, from a few words 
which we distinguished, there is no doubt of the language being 
radically the same. According to our calculation, the whole popu- 
lation did not exceed two hundred. 

The island is ten miles in length, but very narrow, particularly 
at the extremities, and, when seen at a distance, does not appear to 
be half a mile wide. It is of the same formation as Lord Hood's Is- 
land, but more perfect. With the exception of a few breaks in the 
southern shore, by which the sea, when high, may at times commu- 
nicate with the lagoon, it is altogether above water. At the extrem- 
ities and angles the soil is more elevated than in other parts, as if 
the influence of the sea had been more felt upon them, and heaped 
up the coral higher. They are, also, better provided with shrubs, 
and particularly cocoa-nut trees, the soil resting upon the debris 
being, I suppose, deeper. The lagoon had several small islets in 
it, and the shores all round are steep, and abound with fish, but we 
did not see any sharks. 

Captain Duperrey, in his voyage round the world in the Coquille, 
visited this island, and, supposing it to be a new discovery, named 
it Clermont Tonnere, after the French minister of marine. It is 
evident, however, from its situation agreeing very nearly with that 
of an island discovered by the Minerva, that it must be the same i 
no other being found sufficiently near to answer the description. 
Captain Duperrey has, no doubt, been misled by the dimensions 
given of the island by the Minerva ; but that may be easily account 



134 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jail, 

ted for, by supposing the island to have been seen from the Miner' 
va lengthwise, and at a distance. 

While we were off Clermont Tonnere, we had a narrow escape 
from a water-spout of more than ordinary size. It approached us 
amidst heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, and was not seen until it 
was very near to the ship. As soon as we were within its influence, 
a gust of wind obliged us to take in every sail, and the topsails, 
which could not be furled in time, were in danger of splitting. 
The wind blew with great violence, momentarily changing its di- 
rection, as if it were sweeping round in short spirals ; the rain which 
fell in torrents, was also precipitated in curves with short intervals 
of cessation. Amidst this thick shower the water-spout was discov- 
ered, extending in a tapering form from a dense stratum of cloud, 
to within thirty feet of the water where it was hid, by the foam of 
the sea being whirled upwards with a tremendous giration. It 
changed its direction after it was first seen, and threatened to pass 
over the ship ; but being diverted from its course by a heavy gust 
of wind, it gradually receeded. On the dispersion of this magnifi- 
cent phenomenon, we observed the column to diminish gradually, 
and at length to retire to the cloud, from whence it had descended, 
in an undulating form. 

Various causes have been assigned for these formations, which 
appear to be intimately connected with electricity. On the pres- 
ent occasion a ball of fire was observed to be precipitated into the 
sea, and one of the boats, which was away from the ship, was so 
surrounded by lightning, that Lieutenant Belcher thought it advisa- 
ble to get rid of the anchor, by hanging it some fathoms under water, 
and to cover the seamen's muskets. From the accounts of this of- 
ficer and Mr. Smyth, who were at a distance from the ship, the 
column of the water-spout first descended in a spiral form, until it 
met the ascending column a short distance from the sea ; a second 
and a third were afterwards formed, which subsequently united 
into one large column, and this again separated into three small 
spirals, and then dispersed. It is not impossible that the highly 
rarified air confined by the woods encircling the lagoon islands may 
contribute to the formation of these phenomena. 

A canoe near the ship very wisely hastened on shore at the ap- 
proach of the bad weather, for had it been drawn within the vortex 
of the whirlwind it must have perished. We had the greatest ap- 
prehension for our boats, which were absent during the storm, but 
fortunately they suffered no injury. 

Neither the barometer nor sympeisometer were sensibly affected 
by this partial disturbance of the atmosphere ; but the temperature, 
underwent a change of eight degrees, falling from 82° to 74° ; at 
midnight it rose to 78°. On the day succeeding this occurrence, 



1826.] and bekring's strait. 135 

several water-spouts were seen in the distance, the weather being 
squally and gloomy. 

After examining the vicinity of Clermont Tonnere for the island 
of the Minerva, and seeing no other land, we steered for Serle Isl- 
and, which was discovered at daylight on the 21st January, bearing 
west. Its first appearance was that of a low strip of land with a 
hillock at each extremity, but these, on a near approach, proved to 
be clumps of large trees. Admiral Krusenstern, in his valuable 
Memoir on the South Pacific,* observes, that Serle Island is higher 
than any other island of the low archipelago ; that it has two hills 
at its extremities, and a third near its centre ; and on this account 
recommends it as a place of reconnoissance for ships entering the 
archipelago. In this, however, he has been misled by some navi- 
gator who mistook the the trees for hills, and over-estimated the 
height of them, as the tallest does not exceed fifty feet. 

Some columns of smoke rising from the island showed that it was 
inhabited, and on rounding the N. W. extreme we perceived seve- 
ral men and women running along the beach, dragging after them 
long poles or spears. The population altogether cannot exceed a 
hundred. The men were entirely naked, but the women had the 
usual covering. They were of the same dark swarthy colour with 
the natives of Clermont Tonnere, with the hair tied in a similar 
knot on the top of the head, and like them they were deficient in 
tattooing and ornaments. Their weapons were poles about twenty 
feet in length, similar to those of the Friendly Islanders, and heavy 
clubs. We could not perceive any canoes. 

This island is seven miles and a half in length, in a N. W. direc- 
tion, and two and a quarter miles in width in its broadest part. It 
is of coral formation, and very similar to that just described ; its 
windward side is the most perfect : the southern side of the chain, 
however, differs in being wider, and having a barren flat full an 
eighth of a mile outside the trees. On this account it is necessary 
for a ship to be cautious in approaching it during the night, as it is 
so low that the breakers would be the first warning of the danger of 
her situation. The lagoon is very narrow, and apparently shallow, 
with several islands in the middle. Besides the clumps of trees at 
the extremities, which at a distance have the appearance of banyan 
trees, there are several clusters of palms ; a distinction which I 
would recommend to the attention of commanders of vessels; as, be- 
sides assisting them in identifying the islands, it will enable them to 
estimate their distance from them with tolerable precision. 

We left Serle Island on the morning of the 22d, and at sunset 
hove-to in the parallel of Whitsunday Island. This island, discov- 

» Page 276, 4to. edition. 



136 voyaoe to the pacific [Jan. 

ered, by Captain Wallis in 1767, is situated forty miles to the west- 
ward of the place he has assigned to it, and we consequently ran to 
the westward all the next day, in expectation of seeing it, but it 
was not reported from the masthead until late in the evening. In 
the morning of the 23d the boats succeeded in landing, though with 
some difficulty ; and found indubitable proofs of the island having 
been inhabited ; but no natives were seen. Under a large clump 
of trees we observed several huts, eight feet by three, thatched with 
dried palm leaves, the doors of which were so low that it was ne- 
cessary to crawl upon the ground to enter the apartments within. 
Near these dwellings were some sheds and several piles of chewed 
pandanus nuts. 

The island was traversed in various directions by well-trodden 
pathways : not far from the huts were several reservoirs of water 
cut about eighteen inches into the coral, and about five feet from the 
general surface of the soil ; the water in them was fresh, but from 
neglect the reservoirs were nearly filled with decayed leaves, and 
emitted a putrid smell. In another direction we saw several slabs 
of coral placed erect, to denote burial places ; and near the opening 
to the lagoon there were several rows of stakes driven into the 
ground for the purpose of taking fish. But what most attracted our 
attention was a heap of fish bones, six feet by five, neatly cleaned, 
and pilled up very carefully with planks placed upon them to pre- 
vent their being scattered by the wind. 

We found the island only a mile and a half in length, instead of 
four miles, as stated by Captain Wallis; steep all round; of coral 
formation ; well wooded, and containing a lagoon. The general 
height of the soil was six feet above the level of the sea, of which 
nearly two feet were coral rock ; from the trees to the surf there 
was a space of hard rock nearly 150 yards in length, covered with 
about a foot of water, beyond which it descended rapidly, and at 
500 yards distance no bottom could be found with 1500 feet of line. 
On the inner side from the trees to the lake, there was a gentle de- 
clivity of muddy sand filled with' shells of the cardium, linedo, tri- 
dacnse, gigas, and a species of trochus. The trees, which formed a 
tolerably thick wood round the lagoon, were similar to those at 
Clermont Tonnere, consisting principally of pandanus and cocoa- 
nut, interwoven with the tournefortia, sccevola, and lepidium pisci- 
dium. 

On the south side of the island there was a very narrow entrance 
to the lagoon, too shallow for the passage of boats, even had the 
water been smooth. It was of this opening, I presume, that Cap- 
tain Wallis observes that the surf was too high upon the rocks for 
his boats to attempt the passage. 

The lagoon was comparatively shallow ; the edges, for a consid- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 137 

erable distance, sloped gradually toward the centre, and then deep- 
ened suddenly ; the edge of the bank being ne'arly perpendicular. 
This bank, as well as numerous islets in the lagoon, were formed 
of coral and dead and live tridacnas shells. The space between the 
islets was very rugged, and full of deep holes. 

In the lagoon there were several kinds of brilliantly coloured 
fish : on the reef, some fistularia ; and in the surf a brown and black 
chaetodon with a black patch at the junction of the tail with the 
body. Upon the land were seen a few rats and lizards, a white he- 
ron, a curlew, some sandpipers, and a species of columba resemb- 
ling the columba australis. 

In the evening we bore up for Queen Charlotte's Island, an- 
other coral formation also discovered by Captain Wallis, and so 
grown up that we could not see any lagoon in its centre, as we had 
done in all the others. Several huts and sheds similar to those at 
Whitsunday laland occur in a bay on its. northern shore, but there 
were no inhabitants. It may be remembered that- when Captain 
Wallis visited this island, the natives took to their canoes and fled 
to the next island to the westward : whether they did so on the 
present occasion we could not determine, but in all probability we 
should have seen them if they had. Queen Charlotte's Island af- 
forded Captain Wallis a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, but at pres- 
ent not a tree of that description is to be seen. The shore is more 
steep than either Whitsunday or Clermont Tonnere, and the huts 
more numerous. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon we quitted Queen Charlotte's Isl- 
and, and in two hours afterwards saw Lagoon Island, which was 
discovered by Captain Cook ; the former bearing S. 6° W. true, 
the latter due north, by which an excellent opportunity occurred of 
comparing the longitudes of those celebrated navigators. 

The next morning we coasted the north side of Lagoon Island 
very closely, while the barge navigated the other. It is three miles 
in length in a W. by S. direction, and a mile and a quarter in width. 
Its general figure has been accurately described by Captain Cook : 
the southern side is still the low reef of breakers which he saw, and 
the three shallow openings on the north shore still exist, though one . 
of them has almost disappeared. Two cocoa-nut trees in the cen- 
tre of the island, which Cook observes had the appearance of flags, 
are still waving ; " the tower" at the western end is also there, but 
has increased to a large clump of cocoa-nut trees: a similar clump 
has sprung up at the eastern end. The lagoon is, in some parts, 
very shallow and contracted, and has many dry islets upon it. The 
shore is steep, as at the other coral islands, excepting on the south 
side, which should not be approached within a quarter of a mile. 

We brought-to off a small village at at the N. W. extremity of 

vol. i. 18 



138 voyage to the pacific [Jan. 

the island, and sent two boats on shore. The natives seeing them 
approach came down to the beach armed with poles from twenty to 
twenty-five feet in length, with bone heads, and short clubs shaped 
like a bill-hook ; but before they reached the surf they laid down 
their weapons. At first they beckoned our people to land ; but 
seeing the breakers too high, they suffered themselves to be bribed 
by a few pieces of iron, and swam off to them. A brisk traffic 
soon began, and all the disposable articles of the natives were speedily 
purchased for a few nails, broken pieces of iron, and beads : they 
then brought down cocoa-nuts, and exchanged six of them for 
a nail or a bit of iron, which is known here, as at Clermont Ton- 
nere, by the name of"toki." The strictest integrity was observed 
by these people in all their dealings. If one person had not the 
number of cocoa-nuts demanded for a piece of iron, he borrowed 
from his neighbour ; and when any of the fruit fell overboard in 
putting it into the boat, they swam after it, and restored it to the 
owner. Such honesty is rare among the natives of Polynesia, and 
the Lagoon Islanders consequently ingratiated themselves much 
with us. We got from them nearly two hundred cocoa-nuts, and 
several ornamental parts of their dress, one of which consisted of 
thin bands of human hair, very neatly plaited, about five feet in 
length, with four or five dozen strings in each. To some of these 
were attached a dried doodoe-nut (aleurites trilohd), or a piece of 
wood. We also got some of their mats and sinnet made of the 
porou bark (hibiscus tiliaceas). 

The men were a fine athletic race, with frizzled hair, which they 
wore very thick. In complexion they were much lighter than the 
islanders of Clermont Tonnere : one man, in particular, and the only 
one who had whiskers, was so fair, and so like an European, that 
the boat's crew claimed him as a countryman. No superfluous orna- 
ments were worn by either sex, nor were any of them tattooed: the 
dress of the males was simply a maro of straw, and sometimes a 
straw sack hung over their shoulders to prevent the sun from scorch- 
ing their backs : two of them were distinguished by crowns of white 
feathers. The women had a mat wrapped about their loins as their 
only covering : some wore the hair tied in a bunch upon one side of 
the head, others had a plaited band tied round it. They were infe- 
rior to the men in personal appearance, and mostly bowlegged ; but 
they exercised an authority not very common among uncivilized 
people, by taking from the men whatever articles they received in 
exchange for their fruit, as soon as they returned to the shore. 
The goodnatured countenances of these people, the honesty observ- 
ed in all their dealings, and the great respect they paid their wo- 
men, bespeak them a more amiable race than the avaricious Gam- ' 
bier Islanders. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 139 

We quitted them about three o'clock in the afternoon, and in a 
few hours after saw Thrum Cap Island, bearing N. 56° 54' W. ; 
the clump on Lagoon Island at the same time bearing S. 58° 14' E., 
thirteen miles distant. This island, discovered and so named by- 
Captain Cook, is also of coral, three-quarters of a mile in length, 
well wooded, and steep all round. At a mile distant from it we 
could get no bottom with 400 fathoms. We could perceive no la- 
goon ; and the surf ran too high to admit of landing. Some slabs 
placed erect, and a hut, showed it had once been inhabited ; but 
the only living things we saw were birds and turtle. M. Bougain- 
ville gave this island the name of Les Lanciers, in consequence of 
the men whom he saw on it, being armed with long spears, and who 
probably were visiters from the island we had just left. 

From Thrum Cap we steered for Egmont Island, the second 
discovery of Captain Wallis, which we shortly saw from the mast- 
head, and by sunset were close to it. The next morning the shore 
was very carefully examined, and we found the reef so low toward 
the centre that in high tides there can be no communication with 
the extremities. The island is steep, like all the other coral islands, 
and well wooded with cocoa-nut and pandanus-trees, and has one 
of the large clumps at its N. W. extremity. 

Upon the windward island we perceived about fifty inhabitants 
collected upon the beach ; the men in one groupe, armed in the 
same manner as the Lagoon Islanders, and the women in another 
place more inland. No boat could land on this or on any other part 
of the island : to leeward the S. W. swell rolled even more heavily 
upon the shore than that occasioned by the trade-wind on the oppo- 
site side : we were in consequence obliged to trade with the natives 
in the manner pursued at Lagoon Island. Two of the islanders, 
when they thought we were going to land, advanced with slow 
strides, and went through a number of pantomimic gestures, which 
we could not understand, except that they were of a friendly na- 
ture. This lasted until the boats anchored outside the reef, and they 
were invited to accept some pieces of "toki." Gold and silver are 
not more valued in European countries, than iron, even in its rudest 
form, is by the islanders of Polynesia. At the sound of the word, 
the two spokesmen, and all the natives who had before been seated 
under the shade of the trees, ran off to their huts, and brought down 
whatever they thought likely to obtain a piece of the precious sub- 
stance, — mats, bands, nets, oyster-shells, hooks, and a variety of 
small articles similar to those before described were offered for sale. 
The only article they would not part with, though we offered a 
higher price than it seemed to deserve, was a stick with a bunch of 
black tern feathers suspended to it. At Lagoon, and other islands 
which we visited both before and afterwards, the natives carried one 



140 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jan. 

or more of these sticks : they are mentioned as being seen by the 
earliest voyagers, and are probably marks of distinction or of amity. 

These people so much resemble the Lagoon Islanders in person, 
manners, language and dress, as to need no description : the island 
is also of the same formation, and has apparently the same produc- 
tions. We noticed only one canoe ; but no doubt they have others, 
as a constant communication is kept np with the islands to windward. 
It may be recollected that it was upon this island Captain Wallis 
found all the natives collected who had deserted Queen Charlotte's 
Island on his approach. Though these two places are many miles 
out of sight of each other, yet their canoes took the exact direction 
which, being afterwards followed by Captain Wallis, led to the dis- 
covery of the island. 

Next morning we saw land to the S. by E,, which proved to be 
a small coral island, answering in situation nearly to that of Carys- 
fort Island, discovered by Captain Edwards, but so small as to ren- 
der it very unlikely that it should be the same. Though we ranged 
the shore very closely, we did not perceive any inhabitants. It was 
well wooded, and had several clusters of cocoa-nut trees. The next 
morning parties were sent to cut down some of the trees for fire-wood. 
The surf ran high upon the shore; but, with the assistance of a 
small raft, a disembarkation was effected without any serious acci- 
dent. Several of the officers, anxious to land upon this our first 
discovery in these seas, joined the party in spite of a sound ducking, 
which was the smallest penalty attached to the undertaking. In one 
of these attempts the Naturalist was unfortunately drawn into a deep 
hole in the coral by the recoil of the sea, and, but for prompt assist- 
ance, would in all probability have lost his life. 

The island proved to be only a mile and three-quarters ill length, 
from north to south, and a mile and three-tenths in width. It con- 
sisted of a narrow strip of land of an oval form, not more than two 
hundred yards wide in any part, with a lagoon in its centre, which 
the colour of the water indicated to be of no great depth. In places 
this lake washed the trunks of the trees ; in others it was separated 
from them by a whitish beach, formed principally of cardium and 
venus-shells. Shoals of small fish of the cheetodon genus, highly 
curious and beautiful in colour, sported along the clear margin of the 
lake, and with them two or three species of fistularia ; several mo- 
luscous animals and shell-fish occupied the hollows of the coral 
(principally madrepora cervi-cornis) ; and the chama giganteus was 
found so completely overgrown by the coral, that just sufficient space 
was left for it to open its shell ; a fact which tends to show the ra- 
pidity with which coral increases. 

Upon the shores of the lagoon, the pandanus, cocoa-nut, toufa- 
no ? scoevola koenigii, the suriana (whose aroma may be perceived 



1826.] and beemng's strait. 141 

at the distance of several miles), the large clump-tree, pemphis 
acidula, toumefortia sericea, and other evergreens common to these 
formations, constituted a thick wood, and afforded a cool retreat 
from the scorching rays of a vertitical sun, and the still greater an- 
noyance arising from the reflection of the bright white sand; a luxury 
which until our arrival was enjoyed only by a few black and white tern, 
tropic and frigate birds, and some soldier-crabs which had taken up 
their abode in the vacated turbo-shells. 

Under these trees were three large pits containing several tons of 
fresh water, and not far from them some low huts similar to those 
described at the other islands, and a tomb-stone shaped like that at 
Whitsunday Island. We judged that the huts had been long de- 
serted, from the circumstance of the tern and other aquatic birds oc- 
cupying some calabashes which were left in them. Among several 
things found in this deserted village were part of a scraper used by 
merchants-ships, and a large fish-hook, which we preserved, with- 
out suspecting that they would at a future day clear up the doubt 
that these articles were calculated to throw upon the merit of dis- 
covering this island, to which we otherwise felt an indisputable 
claim. Our suspicions on this head were also strengthed by notic- 
ing that a cocoa-nut tree had been cut down with an instrument 
sharper than the stone axes of the Indians. We had, however no 
direct proof that the island had been before visited by any ship ; 
and we consoled ourselves with the possibility of the instruments 
having been brought from a distance by the natives, who might be 
absent on a temporary visit, and several of whose canoes we found 
in the lagoon : the largest of these was eighteen feet in length by 
fifteen inches in breadth, hollowed out of the large-tree (which we 
at first mistook for a banyan-tree,) and furnished with outriggers 
similar to the canoes of Clermont Tonnere. 

This island, the north end of which is situated in latitude 20° 45' 
07' S., and longitude 4° 07' 48" West, of Gambier Island, I named 
Barrow Island, in compliment to the Secretary of the Admiralty, 
whose literary talents -and zeal for the promotion of geographical sci- 
ence have been long known to the world. 

The party on shore succeeded in the course of a few hours in 
collecting a tolerable supply of hard wood, very well adapted for 
fuel, and some brooms, after which we beat to the windward in 
search of Carysfort Island ; and at four o'clock in the afternoon had 
the satisfaction to see land in that direction; but in consequence of 
a strong current setting to the southward, we did not get near it un- 
til the afternoon of the following day. It answered in every respect 
to Captain Edwards's description of Carysfort Island. The strip 
of land is so low, that the sea, in several places, washes into the lagoon. 
Like all the other islands of this formation we had visited, the 



142 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jail. 

weather side and the points of the island were most wooded, but 
the vegetation was on the whole scanty. There is no danger near 
this island. The outer part of the bank descends abruptly as fol- 
lows : at sixty yards from the breakers, 5 fathoms water 

Eighty yards . . . . 13 ditto 

One hundred and twenty do . . 18 ditto 

Two hundred yards ... 24 ditto 

On the edge of the bank immediately after, no bottom with 35 

fathoms. 

During the night we stood quietly to the southward in search of 
Matilda Recks and Osnaburgh Island. At daylight we saw flocks 
of tern, and at eleven o'clock land was reported bearing W. by S. 
The barge and the ship circumnavigated this island before dark, 
and then kept under easy sail during the night. I learnt from Mr. 
Belcher, who passed round the eastern side of the island, that he 
had found an opening into the lagoon in that direction, and had dis- 
covered near it two anchors lying high up on the reef. 

At daylight next morning land was seen to the southward, which 
on examination proved to be another small coral island, three miles 
and three quarters in length, by three in width : its form is nearly 
an oblong with the southern side much curved. The lagoon in the 
centre was deep, its boundary very low and narrow, and in places 
it overflowed. Several ripplings were observed about these islands, 
but we passed through them without obtaining soundings. 

As soon as the plan of this island was completed we returned to 
that upon which the anchors were observed, and spent the whole 
day in its examination. The lagoon was entered in the boats by a 
channel sufficiently wide and deep for a vessel of the class of the 
Blossom, and proved in every respect an excellent harbour : in en- 
tering, however, it is necessary to look out carefully for rocks, which 
rise suddenly to the surface, or within a very short distance of it. 

On landing at the back of the reef, we perceived unequivocal 
signs of a shipwreck — part of a vessel's keel and fore-foot, broken 
casks, a number of staves, hoops, a ship's hatch marked VIII., 
some copper, lead, &ic, and the beach strewed with broken iron 
hoops, and in their vicinity the anchors which were discovered the 
preceding day : there were also broken harpoons, lances, a small 
cannon, cast metal boilers, &;c. &c, and a leaden pump which had 
a crown and the date 1790 raised upon it. All the iron-work was 
much corroded, and must have been a considerable time exposed to 
the action of the sea and air, but it was not overgrown in the least 
by the coral. Two of these anchors weighed about a ton each; 
the other was a stream anchor, and with one of the bowers, was at 
the break of the sea ; the other bower, together with the boiler, and 
all the before-mentioned materials, were lying about two hundred 



1826.] and beering's strait. 143 

yards from it. The situation in which they were found, the size of 
the anchors, the harpoons, staves, he. and the date of the pump, 
render it highly probable that they belonged to the Matilda, a wha- 
ler which was wrecked in 1792, in the night-time, upon a reef of 
coral rocks in latitude 22° S., and longitude 138° 34' W. But 
whether they had been washed up there by some extraordinarily 
high tide and sea, or the reef had since grown upward, and raised 
them beyond the present reach of the waves, we could not decide; 
the former is most probable ; though it is evident, if the above-men- 
tioned remains be those of the Matilda, of which there can be very 
little doubt, that a considerable alteration has taken place in the is- 
land, as the crew of that vessel describe themselves to have been 
lost on a reef of rocks, whereas the island on which these anchors 
are lying extends fourteen miles in length, and has one of its sides 
covered nearly the whole of the way with high trees, which, from 
the spot where the vessel was wrecked, are very conspicuous, and 
could not fail to be seen by persons in the situation of her crew. 

The island differs fronrthe other coral formations before describ- 
ed, in having a greater disproportion in growth of its sides. The 
one to the windward is covered with tall trees as before mentioned, 
while that to the leeward is nearly all under water. The dry part 
of the chain enclosing the lagoon is about a sixth of a mile in width, 
but varies considerably in its dimensious : the broad parts are fur- 
nished with low mounds of sand, which have been raised by the 
action of the waves, but are now out of their reach, and mostly cov- 
ered with vegetation. The violence of the waves upon the shore, 
except at low water, forces the sea into the lake at many points, 
and occasions a constant outset through the channel to leeward. 

On both sides of the chain the coral descends rapidly : on the 
outer part there is from six to ten fathoms close to the breakers, 
the next cast is thirty to forty, and at a little distance there is no 
bottom with two hundred and fifty fathams. On the lagoon side 
there are two ledges : the first is covered about three feet at high 
water : at its edge the lead descends to three fathoms to the next 
ledge, which is about forty yards, in width ; it then slopes to about 
five fathoms at its extremity, and again descends perpendicularly 
to ten : after which there is a gradual descent to twenty fathoms, 
which is the general depth of the centre of the lagoon. The lake 
is dotted with knolls or columns of coral, which rise to all intermedi- 
ate heights between the bottom and the surface, and are dangerous 
even to boats sailing in the lagoon with a fresh breeze, particularly 
in cloudy weather, as at that time it is difficult to distinguish even 
those which are close to the surface. 

No cocoa-nut or other fruit-trees have yet been planted on the 
isolated shore, nor are there any vestiges of its ever having been in- 



144 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

habited, excepting by the feathered tribe, a few lizards, soldier- 
crabs, and occasionally by turtle. The birds, unaccustomed to 
molestation, were so ignorant of their danger that we lifted them off 
their nests ; and the fish suffered as much by our sticks and boat- 
hooks, as by our fishing-lines. The sharks, as in almost all unin- 
habited islands within the tropics, were so numerous and daring, 
that they took the fish off our lines as we were hauling them in, and 
the next minute were themselves taken by a bait thrown over for 
them; a happy thought of our fishermen, who by that means not 
only recovered many of their hooks, but gor back the stolen fish in 
a tolerably perfect state. 

In several small lakes, occasioned by the sea at times overflow- 
the land, we saw an abundance of fish of the chsetoclon and sparus 
genera, of the same beautiful colours as those at Barrow Island, and 
in one of them caught a species of gymnothorax about two feet in 
length. There were but few echini upon the reef, but an abund- 
ance of shell-fish, consisting of the area, ostrea, cardium, turbo, he- 
lix, conus, cyprea, voluta, harpa, haliotis, patella, &sc. ; also seve- 
ral aphroditse holuthuriae (biche la mer) and asterise, &cc. 

The position of this island differed so considerably from that of 
Osnaburgh Island, discovered by Captain Carteret, that I beat two 
days to the eastward in the parallel of 22° S. in the expectation of 
finding another ; but when the view from the mast-head extended 
half a degree beyond the longitude he had assigned to his discove- 
ry, and we had not even any indication of land, I gave up further 
search. The probability, therefore, is, that the island upon which 
we found the wreck is the Osnaburgh of Captain Carteret ; and as 
it is equally probable, from what has been said, that the remains are 
those of the Matilda, it will be proper henceforward to affix to it 
the name of both Osnaburgh and Matilda. 

A doubt might have arisen with respect to the island discovered 
to the southward being Osnaburgh Island, had Captain Carteret 
not expressly said in his journal, that the island he saw was to the south 
of him ; but this bearing put such a supposition out of the question, 
as in that case he must have seen the island to the northward also. 
I have, in consequence, considered it a new discovery, and honour- 
ed it with the name of Cockburn Island, in compliment to the Right 
Honourable Sir George Cockburn, G. C. B., one of the Lords of 
the Admiralty. 

After we gave up the search to the eastward for the island of 
Captain Carteret, we pursued the same parallel of 22° S. some dis- 
tance to the westward without being more successful, and then 
steered for the Lagoon Island of Captain Bligh, which was seen the 
following day. On our approach several large fires were kindled 
in different parts. The natives were darker than those of Lagoon 



1826.] and beering's straw, 145 

Island of Cook, were nearly naked, and had their hair tied in a 
knot on the top of the head ; they were all provided with stones, 
clubs, and spears. As the sea ran very high, we did not land, and 
consequently had no further communication with them. The isl- 
and is larger than is exhibited upon Arrowsmith's Charts, but agrees 
in situation very closely with the position assigned to it by Captain 
Bligh. 

Two days afterwards we discovered a small island in lat. 19° 40' 
S. and long. 140° 29' W., which, as it was not before known, I 
named Byam Martin Island, in compliment to Sir Thomas Byam 
Martin, K. C. B., the Comptroller of the Navy. 

As we neared the shore the natives made several fires. Shortly 
afterwards three of them launched a canoe, and paddled fearlessly 
to the barge, which brought them to the ship- Instead of the deep- 
coloured uncivilized Indians inhabiting the coral islands in general, 
a tall well-made person, comparatively fair, an/1 handsomely tat- 
tooed, ascended the side, and, to our surprise, familiarly accosted 
us in the Otahetian manner. The second had a hog and a cock 
tattooed upon his breast — animals almost unknown among the isl- 
ands of Eastern Polynesia ; and the third wore a turbatt of blue 
nankeen. Either of these were distinctions sufficient to excite 
considerable interest, as they convinced us they were not natives of 
the island before us, but had either been left there, or drifted away 
from some other island : the latter supposition was the most proba- 
ble, as they described themselves to have undergone great privation 
and suffering, by which many of their companions had lost their 
lives, and their canoe to have been wrecked upon the island ; and 
that they and their friends on shore were anxious to embark in the 
ship, and return to Otaheite, A little suspicion was at first attach-, 
ed to this account, as it seemed impossible for a canoe to reach 
their present asylum without purposely paddling towards it; as 
Byam Martin Island, unlike Wateo, upon which Omai found his. 
countrymen, is situated six hundred miles from Otaheite, in the di- 
rection of the trade-wind. We could not doubt,. however, that they 
were natives of that place, as they mentioned the names of the 
missionaries residing there, and proved that they could both read 
and write. 

To their solicitation to return in the ship to Otaheite, as their 
numbers on shore amounted to forty persons. I could not yield , 
and I pointed out to them the impossibility of doing so ; but 
that we might learn the real history of their adventures, I 
offered a passage to the man who first ascended the side, as 
he appeared the most intelligent of the party. The poor fel- 
low was at first quite delighteji-, but suddenly became grave, 
and inquired if his wife^ and children might accompany him, as he 

19 



146 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

could on no account consent to a separation. Our compliance with 
this request appeared to render him completely happy ; hut still 
fearful of disappointment, before quitting the ship he sent to ask if 
I was in earnest. 

The next morning, on landing, we found him, his wife, and fam- 
ily, with their goods and chattels, upon the beach, ready to embark, 
and all the islanders assembled to take leave of them ; but as we 
wished to examine the island first, we postponed this ceremony un- 
til the evening. The little colony gave us a very friendly recep- 
tion, and conducted us to their village, which consisted of a few 
low huts, similar to those at Barrow Island ; but they had no fruit 
to offer us, excepting pandanus-nuts, which they disliked almost as 
much as ourselves, and told us they had been accustomed to better 
fare. 

In their huts we found calabashes of water suspended to the roof, 
mats, baskets, and every thing calculated for a sea-voyage ; and not 
far from them a plentiful store of fish, raised about four feet above 
the ground, out of the reach of the rats, which were very numerous. 
They had clothing sufficient for the climate, and were in every re- 
spect stout and healthy ; there was therefore no immediate neces- 
sity for removing them, though I offered to take them as far as the 
next island, which was larger and inhabited, and where — conclud- 
ing, from what we saw, that these people were auxiliary missiona- 
ries — they would have an opportunity of prosecuting their pious in- 
tentions in the conversion of the natives. This proposal, howev- 
er, after a little consultation, was declined, from an apprehension 
of being killed and eaten,as they supposed the greater part of the 
inhabitants of the eastern islands of Polynesia to be cannibals. 

We very soon discovered that our little colony were Christians ; 
they took an early opportunity of convincing us that they had both 
Testaments, hymn-books, &x. printed in the Otaheitan language : 
they also showed us a black-lead pencil, and other materials for 
writing. Some of the girls repeated hymns, and the greater part 
evinced a reverence and respect for the sacred books, which reflects 
much credit upon the missionaries, under whose care we could no 
longer doubt they had at one time been. 

Tuwarri, to whom I offered a passage, we found was not the 
principal person on the island, but that their chief was a man 
who accompanied him in the boat, with his legs dreadfully enlarged 
with the elephantiasis : it was he who directed their course, rebuilt 
their canoe after it had been stranded, and who appeared also to be 
their protector, being the only one who possessed fire-arms. His 
importance in this respect was, however, a little diminished by the 
want of powder and shot, and by an accident which had deprive d 
him of the hammer of his gun — a misfortune he particularly regret- 



1826.] and beering's sthait. 147 

ted, as it had been given him by King Pomarree, His anxiety on 
this head was relieved by finding our armourer could supply the 
defect, and that we could furnish him with the necessary materials 
for the defence of his party. 

The canoe in which this extraordinary voyage had been made 
was found hauled up at a different part of the island from that on 
which we landed, and placed under a shed very neatly built, with 
the repairs executed in a workmanlike manner, and in every respect 
ready for sea. She was a double canoe, upwards of thirty feet long 
by nine broad, and three feet nine inches deep ; each vessel having 
three feet three inches beam : one was partly decked, and the oth- 
er provided with a thatched shed : they were sharp at both ends, 
each of which was fitted for a rudder, and the timbers were sewed 
together with strong plaited cord, after the manner of the canoes of 
Chain Island, where they are brought to great perfection. 

We remained the whole day upon the island, contributing to the 
comfort of the inhabitants by the distribution of useful presents ; 
and at the same time making our own observations, and endeavouring 
to learn something of their liistory, and at sunset we assembled upon 
the beach to embark. Poor Tuwarri was quite overwhelmned at 
separating from his companions and fellow-sufferers. The whole 
village accompanied him to the boat, to the last testifying their re- 
gard by some little act of civility. When the moment of departure 
arrived, the men gathered about him, shed abundance of tears, and 
took their leave in a solemn manner with a very few words. The 
women, on the other hand, clung about his wife and children, and 
indulged a weakness that better become their sex. 

The island upon which we found them is nearly an oval of three 
miles and three-quarters diameter. It is of coral formation, and has 
a lagoon and productions very similar to the other islands recently 
described. One species of coral not noticed before was seen in the 
lagoon, growing above water: it was a millepore extending itself in 
vertical plates parallel to the shore. Among the vegetable produc- 
tions, the polypodium vuJgare, seen at Whitsunday Island, wa*s 
found here ; and also a small shrub, which we afterwards ascertain- 
to be an achyranthus. From the pemphis we procured a large sup- 
ply of firewood, to which use it is well adapted, as it burns a long 
time, gives great heat, and occupies comparatively little room. The 
wood of this tree is hard as lignum vitae, and equally good for tools ; 
its specific gravity much greater than sea water : its colour is deep 
red, but the inner bark more strongly tinged ; and if properly pre- 
pared, would perhaps afford a good dye. 

From Byam Martin Island we steered for Gloucester Island of 
Captain Wallis, and early the next morning were close to it. The 
appearance of the island has been accurately described by its dis» 



148 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

coverer, but its present form and extent differ materially. At the 
S. E. angle of the island we noticed a morai built of stones, but 
there were no inhabitants upon the shore. In passing to windward 
of the island, the currant unexpectedly set so strong upon it, that 
the ship was for a considerable time in imminent danger of being 
thrown upon the rocks, and her escape is entirely attributable to the 
rapid descent of the coral reef, which at times was almost under 
her bottom, She, however, fortunately cleared the reef, and was 
immediately in safety. After collecting the necessary information, 
we steered for Bow Island, which was seen from the mast-head at 
three o'clock the same afternoon. 



1826.J and beering's strait. 149 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Boat sent to examine the Channel into Bow Island Lagoon — Unexpected Interview 
between Tuwarri and his Brother — A Pearl Brig- at anchor in the Lagoon — Mys- 
tery attached to the Byam Martin Islanders dispelled — Their interesting - History, 
extensive Wanderings and Sufferings — Sequel of Tuwarri's History — Ship enters 
the Lagoon — Description of the Island — A short Account of the Natives — Visit 
several other coral Islands, and discover Melville and Croker Islands — Remarks 
on the Discoveries of Cook, Wallis, Carteret, &c. — Peculiarities of the coral Islands 
— Arrival at Otaheite. 

Bow" Island was discovered by M. Bougainville in 1768, and the 
following year was visited by Captain Cook, who gave it its pres- 
ent name from the resemblance its shape bore to a bow. Its figure 
protracted upon paper, however, is very irregular, and bears but 
small resemblance to the instrument after which it was named ; but 
to a person viewing it as Captain Cook did, the mistake is very 
likely to occur. It is of coral formation, thirty-four miles long, and 
ten broad ; well wooded on the weather side, but very scantily so on 
the other ; and so low in this half, that the sea in places washes in- 
to the lagoon. We sailed close along what may be considered the 
string of the bow, which the barge navigated the arch ; and thus, 
between us, in a few hours made the circuit of the island. 

Previous to quitting England, Captain Charlton, the consul at 
the Sandwich Islands, among other useful matter which he obliging- 
ly communicated, informed me of an opening through the coral reef 
of this island into the lagoon ; and as I was desirous, at this period 
of the survey, of having a point astronomically fixed to correct the 
chronometrical measurements, I determined, if possible, to enter the 
lagoon with the ship. When we reached the supposed opening, a 
boat was lowered to examine it; and Tuwarri was sent in her to 
conciliate the natives, should any be seen in the course of the ser- 
vice. As she drew near the shore, several men were observed 
among the trees ; and the officer in charge of the boat, acting under 
my general orders of being always prepared for an attack, desired 
the muskets to be loaded. Tuwarri, who had probably never pos- 
sessed much courage, at the sight of these preparations, wished him- 



150 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

self anywhere else than in his present situation, and, to judge from 
his countenance, calculated at least upon being killed and eaten by 
cannibals : he was in the greatest agitation as the boat advanced, 
until she came within speaking distance of the strangers, when, in- 
stead of the supposed monsters ready to devour him, he recognised, 
to his surprise, his own brother and several friends whom he had 
left at Chain Island three years before, all of whom had long given 
him up as lost, and whom he never expected to see again. 

The two brothers met in a manner which did credit to their feel- 
ings, and after the first salutation sat down together upon the beach 
with their hands firmly locked, and entered into serious conversation, 
consisting no doubt of mutual inquiries after friends and relations, 
and Tuwarri's account of his perilous adventure. They continued 
with their hands grasped until it was time for the boat to return to 
the ship, when they both came on board. This affecting interview 
increased our impatience to have the mystery which overhung the 
fate of our passenger cleared up, and an opportunity fortunately 
happened for doing so. 

The gig, on entering the lagoon, had been met by a boat from an 
English brig (the Dart, employed by the Australian Pearl Compa- 
ny) at anchor there, with a number of divers, natives of Chain Is- 
land, hired into her service : among these men there was one who 
acted as interpreter, and who was immediately engaged to commu- 
nicate to us the particulars of Tuwarri's adventures, which possess 
so much interest, that the reader will not, I am sure, regret the re- 
lation of them. 

Tuwarri was a native of one of the low coral formations discov- 
ered by Captain Cook in his first voyage, called Anaa by the na- 
tives, but by him named Chain Island, situated about three hundred 
miles to the eastward of Otaheite, to which it is tributary. About 
the period of the commencement of his misfortunes, old Pomarree 
the king of Otaheite died, and was succeeded by his son, then a 
child. On the accession of this boy, several chiefs and commoners 
of Chain Island, among whom was Tuwarri, planned a voyage to 
Otaheite, to pay a visit of ceremony and of homage to their new 
sovereign. The only conveyance these people could command was 
double canoes, three of which, of the largest class, were prepared for 
the occasion. To us, accustomed to navigate the seas in ships of 
many tons burthen, provided with a compass and the necessary in- 
struments to determine our position, a canoe with only the stars for 
her guidance, and destined to a place whose situation could be at 
the best but approximately known, appears so frail and uncertain a 
conveyance, that we may wonder how any persons could be found 
sufficiently resolute to hazard the undertaking. They knew, how- 
cver ; that similar voyages had been successfully performed, not only 



1826.] and beering's strait. 151 

to mountainous islands to leeward, but to some that were scarcely six 
feet above the water, and were situated in the opposite direction; 
and as no ill omens attended the present undertaking, no unusual 
fears were entertained. The canoes being accordingly prepared, 
and duly furnished with all that was considered necessary, the per- 
sons intending to proceed on this expedition were embarked, amoun- 
ting in all to a hundred and fifty souls. What was the arrangement 
of the other two canoes is unknown to us, but in Tuwarri's there 
were twenty-three men, fifteen women, and ten children and a sup- 
ply of water and provision calculated to last three weeks. 

On the day of departure all the natives assembled upon the beach 
to take leave of our adventurers ; the canoes were placed with scru- 
pulous exactness in the supposed direction which was indicated by 
certain marks upon the land, and then launched into the sea, amidst 
the good wishes and adieus of their countrymen. With a fair wind 
and full sail they glided rapidly over the space without a thought 
of the possibility of the miseries to which they were afterwards ex- 
posed. 

It happened, unfortunately, that the monsoon that year* began 
earlier than was expected, and blew with great violence ; two days 
were, notwithstanding, passed under favourable circumstances, and 
the adventurers bearan to look for the High land of Maitea, an island 
between Chain Island and Otaheite, and to anticipate the pleasures 
which the successful termination of their voyage would afford them, 
when their progress was delayed by a calm, the precursor of a storm, 
which rose suddenly from an unfavourable quarter, dispersed the 
canoes, and drove them away before it. In this manner they drifted 
for several days ; but on the return of fine weather, having a fort- 
night's provision remaining, they again resolutely sought their des- 
tination, until a second gale drove them still farther back than the 
first, and lasted so long that they became exhausted. Thus many 
days were passed ; their distance from home hourly increasing ; the 
sea continually washing over the canoe, to the great discomfiture of 
the women and children ; and their store of provision dwindled to 
the last extremity. A long calm, and, what was to them even worse, 
hot dry weather, succeeded the tempest, and reduced them to a 
state of the utmost distress. They described to us their canoe 
alone and becalmed on the ocean ; the crew, perishing with thirst, 
beneath the fierce glare of a tropical sun, hanging exhausted over 
their paddles ; children looking to their parents for support, and 
mothers deploring their inability to afford them assistance. Every 

* In the South Pacific the monsoons are occasionally felt throughout all the 
islands of Eastern Polynesia. 



152 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

means of quenching their thirst were resorted to; some drank the 
sea-water, and others bathed in it, or poured it over their heads ; 
but the absence of fresh water in the torrid zone cannot be compen- 
sated by such substitutes. Day after day those who were able ex- 
tended their gourds to heaven in supplication for rain, and repeated 
their prayers, but in vain ; the fleecy cloud floating high in the air 
indicated only an extension of their suffering : distress in its most 
aggravated form had at length reached its height, and seventeen per- 
sons fell victims to its horrors. 

The situation of those who remained may readily be imagined, 
though their fate would never have been known to us, had not 
Providence at this critical moment wrought a change in their fa- 
vour. The sky, which for some time had been perfectly serene, 
assumed an aspect which at any other period would have filled our 
sufferers with aprehension ; but, on the present occasion, the trop- 
ical storm, as it approached, was hailed with thankfulness, and wel- 
comed as their deliverer. All who were able came upon the deck 
with blankets, gourds, and cocoa-nut shells, and held them toward 
the black cloud, as it approached, pouring down torrents of rain, of 
which every drop was of incalculable value to the sufferers ; they 
drank copiously and thankfully, and filled every vessel with the 
precious element. Thus recruited, hope revived ; but the absence 
of food again plunged them into the deepest despair. We need 
not relate the dreadful alternative to which they had recourse until 
several large sharks rose to the surface and followed the canoe ; 
Tuwarri, by breaking off the head of an iron scraper, formed it into 
a hook, and succeeded in catching one of them, which was instantly 
substitued for the revolting banquet which had hitherto sustained 
life. 

Thus refreshed, they again worked at their paddles or spread 
their sail, and were not long before their exertions were repaid with 
the joyful sight of land, on which clusters of cocoa-nuts crowned 
the heads of several tufts of palm-trees : they hurried through the 
surf and soon reached the much wished-for spot, but being too fee- 
ble to ascend the lofty trees, they were obliged to fell one of them 
with an axe. 

On traversing the island to which Providence had thus conduct- 
ed them, they discovered by several canoes in the lagoon and path- 
ways intersecting the woods, that it had been previously inhabited ; 
and knowing the greater part of the natives of the low islands to be 
cannibals, they determined to remain no longer upon it than was 
absolutely necessary to recruit their strength, imagining that the 
islanders, when they did return, would not rest satisfied with mere- 
ly dispossessing them of their asylum. 

It was necessary, while they were allowed to remain, to seek 



1826.] and beering's strait. l£>3 

shelter from the weather, and to exert themselves in procuring a 
supply of provision for their further voyage ; huts were consequent- 
ly built, pools dug for water, and three canoes added to those which 
were found in the lake. Their situation by these means was rend- 
ered tolerably comfortable, and they not only provided themselves 
with necessaries sufficient for their daily consumption, but were able 
to diy and lay by a considerable quantity of fish for sea stock. 

After a time, finding themselves undisturbed, they gained confi- 
dence, and deferred their departure till thirteen months had elaps- 
ed from the time of their landing. At the expiration of which pe- 
riod, being in good bodily health and supplied with every requisite 
for their voyage, they again launched upon the ocean in quest of 
home. 

They steered two days and nights to the northwest, and then fell 
in with a small island, upon which, as it appeared to be uninhabit- 
ed, they landed, and remained three days, and then resumed their 
voyage. After a run of a day and a night they came in sight of 
another uninhabited island. In their attempt to land upon it their 
canoe was unfortunately stove, but all the party got safe on shore. 
The damage which the vessel had sustained requiring several weeks 
to repair, they established themselves upon this island, and again 
commenced storing up provision for their voyage. Eight months 
had already passed in these occupations, when we unexpectedly 
found them thus encamped upon Byam Martin Island ; with their 
canoe repaired, and all the necessary stores provided for their next 
expedition. The other two canoes were never heard of. 

Several parts of this curious history strongly favoured the pre- 
sumption that the island upon which the party first landed and es- 
tablished themselves was Barrow Island : and, in order to have it 
confirmed, the piece of iron that had been brought from thence, 
and had fortunately been preserved, was produced. Tuwarri, when 
he saw it, immediately exclaimed that it was the piece of iron he 
had broken in two to form the shark-hook, which was the means of 
preserving the lives of his party, and said that the tree we found cut 
down with some sharp edged tool was that which his party felled 
before their strength enabled them to climb for fruit : and hence 
the huts, the pools of water, the canoes, &c. were the remains of 
their industry. 

This curious discovery enabled us to form a tolerably accurate 
idea of the distance the canoe had been drifted by the gale, as Bar- 
row Island is 420 miles in a direct line from Chain Island, their na- 
tive place ; and if to this be added 100 miles for the progress they 
made during the first two days toward Maitea, and the distance they 
went on their return before they reached Barrow Island, the whole 
cannot amount to much less than 600 miles. 

20 



154 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

, Before Tuwarri could be restored to his home, we visited in suc- 
cession several low islands to which he was a stranger. While we 
were cruising among them, he entertained the greatest apprehension 
lest we had lost our way, and perhaps pictured to himself a repeti- 
tion of his disastrous voyage. He could not imagine our motive 
for pursuing so indirect a course, and frequently inquired if we were 
going to his native island, and if we knew where it was, occasional- 
ly pointing in the direction of it. He always boasted of a knowl- 
edge of the islands lying between Bow Island (He-ow) and Chain 
Island (Anaa), but never informed us right when we came to any 
of them. He had, it is true, reason to be anxious ; for his wife, al- 
most the whole- of the passage, was very sea-sick, which gave him 
great concern ; and when the sea was much agitated, he appeared 
inconsolable. When he at length arrived within sight of Chain 
Island, his joy at the certainty of again setting foot on his native soil, 
and meeting friends who had long supposed him lost, may readily be 
imagined. His gratitude to us for having given him a passage, and 
for our attention to his comfort, was expressed in tears of thankful- 
ness ; and he testified his regret at parting in a manner which show- 
ed him to be sincere ; and as he was going away, he expressed his 
sorrow that the ship would not remain long enough off the island for 
him to send some little token of his gratitude. These feelings, so 
highly creditable to Tuwarri, were not participated by his wife, 
who, on the contrary, showed no concern at her departure, expres- 
sed neither thanks nor regrets, nor turned to any person to bid him 
farewell ; and while Tuwarri was suppressing his tears, she was 
laughing at the exposure which she thought she should make going 
into the boat without an accommodation-ladder. Tuwarri, while 
on board showed no curiosity, knew nothing of our language, or 
evinced any desire to learn it ; took very little interest in any thing 
that was going forward, and was very dull of comprehension. He 
appeared to be a man whose energies had been worn down by hard- 
ship and privation, arid whom misfortune had taught to look on the 
worst side of every thing. But with all these weak points, he had 
many good qualities. He lent a willing hand to pull at a rope, was 
cleanly and quiet, punctually attended church on Sundays, and had 
a atrong sense of right and wrong, which, as far as his abilities ena- 
bled him, governed his actions. He had a warm heart, and his at- 
tachment to his wife and children amounted even to weakness. He - 
had a tolerable knowledge of the relative situation of the islands of 
the archipelago, and readily drew a chart of them, assigning to each 
its name, though, as I have said before, he never could recognise 
them. Some of these we were able to identify, and perhaps should 
have done so with others, had there not been so much sameness in 
all the coral islands. 



1826J and beering's strait. 155 

Mr. Belcher, who was in command of the barge which put him 
on shore, says, he' was not received by his countrymen with the 
surprise and pleasure which might have been expected ; but this 
may, perhaps, be explained by there being no one on the beach to 
whom he was particularly attached. Before the barge quitted the 
island, he put on board some shells as a present, in gratitude for the 
assistance which had been rendered him. 

Reverting to the occurrences of the ship off Bow Island: Mr. 
Elson, the officer who was sent to examine the channel into the la- 
goon, returned with the supercargo of the Dart, Mr. Hussey, and 
made a favourable report of the depth of water in the passage, but 
said its width was so very contracted that it could not be passed 
without hazard. The exact distance from reef to reef is 115 feet, 
and there is a coral knoll in the centre ; the trade-wind does not al- 
ways allow a ship to lie well through it, and there is, at times, a tide 
running out at the rate of four knots an hour. It was, however, 
necessary to incur this risk ; and, on the information of Mr. Hussey 
that the morning was the most favourable time for the attempt, 
shortly after daylight on the next day (15th), under Mr. Elson's 
skilful pilotage, we shot through the passage, at the rate of seven 
knots, and were instantly in a broad sheet of smooth water. We 
found the lagoon studded with coral knolls, which it was necessary 
to avoid by a vigilant look out from aloft, as the lead gave no warn- 
ing of their vicinity ; we beat among them at some risk, and at ten 
o'clock anchored at the N. E. angle of the lake, in ten fathoms wa- 
ter on abroad patch of sand, about a quarter of a mile from the 
shore, and in as secure a harbour as could be required. 

Nearly opposite to our anchorage, the natives, about fifty in num- 
ber,had erected temporary huts during the stay of the Dart, their per- 
manent residences being at the opposite end of the island. They were 
in appearance the most indolent ill-looking race we had yet seen ; 
broad flat noses, dull sunken eyes, thick lips, mouths turned down 
at the corners, strongly wrinkled countenances, and long bushy hair 
matted with dirt and vermin. Their stature was above the middle 
size, but generally crooked ; their limbs bony, their muscles flaccid, 
and their covering a maro. But hideous as the men were, their re- 
volting appearance Was surpassed by the opposite sex of the same 
age. The males were all lolling against the cocoa-nut trees, with 
their arms round each other's necks, enjoying the refreshing shade 
of a thick foilage of palm-trees ; while the women, old and young, 
were labouring hard in the sun, in the service of their masters, for 
they did not merit the name of husbands. The children, quite nak- 
ed, were placed upon mats, crying and rolling to and fro, to displace 
some of the myriads of house-flies, which so speckled their bodies 
that their real colour was scarcely discernible. 



156 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

Amidst this scene I was introduced to the chief, who was distin- 
guished from his subjects by his superior height and strength, and 
probably maintained his authority solely by those qualities. He 
gave me a friendly reception, and suffered us to cut down what 
wood we wanted, confining us only to those trees which produced 
no edible fruits. In return for some presents made him, he drew 
from his canoe several pearl fishing-hooks and bundles of turtle- 
shell, and begged my acceptance of them ; but his extreme pover- 
ty was such, that I could not bring myself to do so, though I do not 
know to what material use the last-mentioned article could be applied 
by him. 

We availed ourselves of the areghe's permission, and sent a par- 
ty to cut as many trees as we required, consisting principally of the, 
pemphis acidula, as at Byam Martin Island. Mr. Marsh endeav- 
oured to engage some of the natives in this imployment, by offering 
shirts, tobacco, &c. ; but, notwithstanding the munificence of the 
reward, the areghe alone could be roused from his lethargy ; and 
even he quitted the axe before the first tree was felled. 

A party of seamen was at the same time sent, under the direc- 
tion of Lieutenant Wainwright, to dig wells ; in which their success 
was so satisfactory, that in less than three days we procured thirty 
tons of fresh water. The wells were about four feet deep, dug 
through the sand into the coral rock. Into two of these the water 
flowed as fast as we could fill the casks ; andw r hen allowed to stand, 
rose eighteen inches. This water was drunk by all the ship's com- 
pany for several weeks, and proved tolerably good, though it did 
not keep as well as spring water.* It is important to navigators to 
know, that even as good water as this may be procured on the coral 
islands by means of wells. In digging them, the choice of situation 
should be given to the most elevated part of the island, and to a 
spot distant from the sea ; perhaps in the vicinity of cocoa-nut trees. 
It is a curious fact that, in Bow Island, the water that flowed into 
holes dug within a yard of the sea was fresh enough to be drunk by 
the sailors, and served the purpose of the natives while they re- 
mained in our vicinity ; though I do not think Europeans could have 
used it long with impunity. 

Not far from the temporay residence of the natives, there was a 
level spot of ground, overgrown with grass, upon which the observe 

* Mr Collie observes, in his Journal, that a " solution of nitrate of soda detected in 
it a moderate proportion of muriatic acid, embodied in the soda. It had no brackish 
taste. With an alcoholic solution of soap it formed a copious white precipitate : with 
oxalate of ammonia it formed slowly, but after some time a dense white cloud : with 
nitrate of silver an abundant purplish-white precipitate ; it remained unchanged 
with nitrate of barytes. Thus showing - that it contained no sulphuric acid, but that 
it was impregnated with muriatic acid and magnesia, most likely muriate of soda, 
sind magnesia, the component parts of sea water.." 



1826.] and beering's strait. 157 

atory was erected ; and I had in consequence frequent intercourse 
with them, and, through the medium of the interpreter of the Dart, 
learned many interesting particulars concerning them. By this ac- 
count they have not long desisted from cannibalism. On question- 
ing the chief, he acknowldged himself to have been present at sev- 
eral feasts of human bodies, and on expatiating on the excellence 
of the food, particularly when it was that of a female, his brutal 
countenance became flushed with a horrible expression of animation. 
Their enmies, those slain in battle, or those who die violent deaths, 
and murderers, were, he said, the only subjects selected for these 
feasts ; the latter, whether justified or not, were put to death, and 
eaten alike with their victims. They have still a great partiality 
for raw food, which is but one remove from cannibalism ; and when 
a canoe full of fish was brought one day to the village, the men, be- 
fore it could be drawn to the shore, fell upon its contents, aud de- 
voured every part of the fish except the bones and fins. The wo- 
men, whose business it was to unload the boat, did the best they 
could with one of them between their teeth, while their hands were 
employed portioning the contents of the canoe into small heaps. 
Bnt even in this repast we were glad to observe some indication of 
feeling in putting the animal speedily out of torture by biting its 
head in two, the only proof of humanity which they manifested. In 
like manner, cleanliness was not overlooked by them, for they care- 
fully rinsed their mouths after the disgusting meal. 

It appeared that the chief had three wives, and that polygamy 
was permitted to an unlimited extent ; any man of the community, 
we were told, might put away his wife whenever it was his pleasure 
to do so, and take another, provided she were disengaged. No cer- 
emony takes place at the wedding ; it being sufficient for a man to 
say to a woman, " You shall be my wife ;" and she becomes so. 

The offspring of these unions seemed to be the objects of the only 
feelings of affection the male sex possessed, as there were certainly 
none bestowed on the women. Indeed the situation of the females 
is much to be pitied; in no part of the world, probably, are they 
treated more brutally. While their husbands are indulging their 
lethargic disposition under the shade of the cocoa-nut trees, making 
no effort toward their own support beyond that of eating when their 
food is placed before them, the women are sent to the reefs to wade 
over the sharp-pointed coral in search of shell-fish, or the woods to 
collect pandanus-nuts. We have seen them going out at day-light 
on these pursuits, and returning quite fatigued with their morning 
toil. In this state, instead of enjoying a little repose on reaching 
their home, they are engaged in the laborious occupation of prepar- 
ing what they have gathered for their hungry masters, who, immedi- 
ately the nuts are placed before them, stay their appetites by extrac- 



158 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

ting the pulpy substance contained in the outside woody fibres of the 
fruit, and throw the remainder to their wives, who further extract 
what is left of the pulp for their own share, and proceed to extricate 
the contents of the interior, consisting of four or five small kernels 
about the size of an almond. To perform this operation, the nut is 
placed upon a flat stone endwise, and with a block of coral, as large 
as the strength of the women will enable them to lift, is split in pieces, 
and the contents again put aside for their husbands. - As it requires 
a considerable number of these small nuts to satisfy the appetites of 
their rapacious rulers, the time of the women is wholly passed upon 
their knees pounding nuts, or upon the sharp coral collecting shells 
and sea eggs. On some occasions the nuts are baked in the ground, 
which gives them a more agreeable flavour, and facilitates the ex- 
traction of the pulp ; it does not, however, diminish the labour of 
the females, who have in either case to bruise the fibres to procure 
the smaller nuts. 

The superiority of sex was never more rigidly enforced than 
among these barbarians, nor were the male part of the human spe- 
cies ever more despicable. On one occasion an unfortunate women 
who was pounding some of these nuts, which she had walked a great 
distance to gather, thinking herself unobserved, ate two or three of 
the kernels as she extracted them ; but this did not escape the vigi- 
lance of her brutal husband, who instantly rose and felled her to the 
ground in the most inhuman manner with three violent blows of his 
fist. Thus tyrannised over, debased, neglected by the male sex, and 
strangers to social affection, it is no wonder all those qualities which 
in civilized countries constitute the fascination of woman are in these 
people wholly wanting. 

The supercargo of the Dart, to forward the service he was engag- 
ed in, had hired a party of the natives of Chain Island to dive for 
shells. Among these was a native missionary,* a very well-be- 
haved man, who used every effort to convert his new acquaintances 
to Christianity. He persevered amidst much silent ridicule, and at 
length succeeded in persuading the greater part of the islanders to 
conform to the ceremonies of Christian worship. It was interest- 
ing to contemplate a body of savages, abandoning their superstitions, 
silently and reverently kneeling upon the sandy shore, and joining 
in the morning and evening prayers to the Almighty. Though 
their sincerity may be questioned, yet it is hoped that an impression 
may be made upon these neophytes,, which may tend to improve 
their moral condition. 

Previous to the arrival of the missionary, every one had his pe- 
culiar deity, of which the most common was a piece of wood with a 

* We were told that at Chain Island there were thirteen houses of prayer under 
the direction of native missionaries. 



1S26.] and beering's strait. 159 

tuft of human hair inserted into it ; but that which was deemed most 
efficacious, when it could be procured, was the thigh bone of an 
enemy, or of a relation recently dead. Into the hollow of this they 
inserted a lock of the same person's hair, and then suspended the 
idol to a tree. To these symbols they address their prayers as long 
as they remained in favour ; but, like the girl in China, who when dis- 
appointed by her lover, pulled down the brazen image and whipped 
it, these people, when dissatisfied with their deity, no longer ac- 
knowledged his power, and substituted some other idol. There were 
times, however, when they feared its anger, and endeavoured to 
appease it with cocoa-nuts ; but I did not hear of any human sacri- 
fices being offered. They appeared to entertain the Pythagorean 
doctrine of the transmigration of the soul, and supposed the first ves- 
sel which they saw to be the spirit of their relations lately deceased. 
The compartments allotted to the dead are here tabooed ; and the 
bodies, first wrapped in mats, are placed under ground. As the soul 
is supposed for a time to frequent these places, provision . and water 
are placed near the spot for its use; and it would be thought unkind, 
or that some evil would befal the person whose business it is to pro- 
vide them, if these supplies were neglected. 

The manufactures of those people are the same with those of all 
the other islanders, and are only such as nature renders necessary, 
consisting of mats, maros, baskets, fishing-tackle, &c. They have 
no occupation beyond the manufacture of these few articles, and 
providing for their daily support. On interrogating the chief how 
he passed the day, he said he rose early and ate his breakfast; he 
then invoked his deity; sometimes he went to fish or catch turtle; 
but more generally passed his time under the shade of the cocoa-nut 
trees: in the evening he ate again, and went to sleep. 

The natives of this island, according to information obtained by 
the interpreter on board the Dart, amount altogether to about a 
hundred souls. 

As my stay at the island was limited to four days, my time was 
much occupied at the observatory, and I am indebted to the jour- 
nals of the officers for many interesting particulars relating to other 
parts of it, and to its natural productions. 

By our trigonometrical survey, Bow Island is thirty miles long 
by an average of five miles broad. It is similar to the other coral 
islands already described, confining within a narrow band of coral a 
spacious lagoon, and having its windward side higher and more 
wooded than the other ; which indeed, with the exception of a few 
clusters of trees and heaps of sand, is little better than a reef. The 
sea in several places washes into the lagoon, but there is no pas- 
sage even for a boat, except that by which the ship entered, which 
is sometimes dangerous to boats, in consequence of the overfalls 



160 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

from the lagoon, especially a little after the time of high water. It 
is to be hoped that the rapid current which sets through the chan- 
nel will prevent the growth of the coral, and leave the lagoon always 
accessible to shipping. It lies at the north side of the island, and 
may be known by two straggling cocoa-nut trees near it, on the 
western side, and a clump of trees on the other. 

The bottom of the lagoon is in parts covered with a fine white 
sand, and it is thickly strewed with coral knolls : the upper parts of 
which overhang the lower, though they do not at once rise in this 
form from the bottom, but from small hillocks. We found compar- 
atively few beneath the surface, though there are some ; at the 
edge of such as are exposed, there is usually six or seven fathoms 
water ; receeding from it, the lead gradually decends to the general 
level of about twenty fathoms. The lagoon contains an abundance 
of shell-fish, particularly those of the pearl-oyster kind. The party 
in the employ of the Dart sometimes collected seventeen hundred 
of these shells in one day. 

The height of the lagoon is subject to the variations of the tides 
of the ocean ; but it suffers so many disturbances from the waves 
which occasionally inundate the low parts of the surrounding land, 
that neither the rise of the tide nor the time of high water can be 
estimated with any degree of certainty. Were the communication 
between the lake and the sea larger, so as to admit of the water 
finding its level, the period of low water might be determined, as 
there is a change of tide in the entrance. 

The strip of low land enclosing the lagoon is nearly seventy miles 
in extent, and the part that is dry is about a quarter of a mile in 
width. On the inner side, a few yards from the margin of the lake, 
there is a low bank formed of finely broken coral ; and, at the out- 
er edge, a much higher bank of large blocks of the same material, 
long since removed from the reach of the waves, and gradually pre- 
paring for the reception of vegetation. Beyond this high bank 
there is a third ridge, similar to that skirting the lagoon : and out- 
side it again, as well as in the lagoon, there is a wide shelf three or 
four feet under water, the outer one bearing upon its surface huge 
masses of broken coral ; the materials for an outer bank, similar to 
the large one just described. These appearances naturally suggest 
the idea of the island having risen by slow degrees. Thus the sand 
dispersed over the lagoon indicates a period when the sea rolled en- 
tirely over the reef, tore up blocks of coral from its margin, and by 
constant trituration ground them to powder, and finally deposited 
the particles where they now rest. The bank near the lake must 
have originated at a subsequent period, when the outer edge be- 
coming nearer to the surface, moderated the strength of the waves, 
and the wash of the sea reached only far enough to deposit the 



1826.] AND VEERING'S STRAIT; 161 

broken coral in the place described. At a still less distant period, 
when the island became dry, and the violence of the sea was whol- 
ly spent upon its margin, the coral, which had before escaped by 
being beneath the surface, gave way to the impetuous wave, and 
was deposited in broken masses, which formed the high ridge. 
Here the sea appears to have broken a considerable time, until a 
second ledge gradually extending seaward, and approaching the sur- 
face, so lessened the effect of the waves upon this ledge also, that 
they were again only capable of throwing up an inferior heap simi- 
lar to the one first mentioned. In process of time this outer ledge will 
become dry , and many large blocks of coral now lying near its edge will, 
probably, form another heap similar to the large one ; and thus the 
island will continue to increase by a succession of ledges being 
brought to the surface, while, by the same process, the lagoon will 
gradually become more shallow and contracted. 

The ridges are particularly favourable to the formation of a soil j 
by retaining within them whatever may be there deposited un- 
til it decays, and by protecting the tender shrubs during their 
early growth. Near our observatory the soil had attained a depth 
of about eight inches before we came to broken coral. 

" In the central and sheltered parts of the plain between the 
ridges the pandanus spreads its divergent roots and rears its fruitful 
branches ; the pemphis also takes root in the same situation. The 
loose dry stones of the first ridge are penetrated by the hard roots of 
the tefano, which expands its branches into a tall spreading tree,, 
and is attended by the fragrant suriana, and the sweet-scented tour- 
nefortia, in the shelter of whose foilage the tender achyranthus and 
lepidium seem to thrive best. Beyond the first high stony ridge 
the hardy scaevola extends its creeping roots and procumbent ver- 
dure towards the sea, throwing its succulent leaves round the sharp 
coral stones." 

" On the windward side, wherever the pandanus was devoid of 
the protection of the more hardy trees, the brown and decayed 
leaves showed it had advanced beyond its proper boundary."* 

We quitted Bow island on the 20th of February, and continued 
the survey of the archipelago, until the period had arrived when it 
was necessary to proceed direct to Otaheite, to prepare the ship 
for her voyage to the northward. We were greatly retarded to- 
ward the close of our operations by the rainy season, which was 
attended with calms, and hot, sultry, wet weather, and perhaps, 
had we continued at sea, would have prevented any thing more 
being done. The dysentary about this time began to make its ap^ 
pearance among the ship's company, owing no doubt to the rains 

*Mr. Collie's Journal. 

21 



162 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC • [Feb. 

and closeness of the atmosphere, combined with the harassing duty 
arising from the navigation of a sea so thickly strewed with islands, 
and to the men having been a long time on a reduced allowance of 
salt provisions. 

The islands which were visited between Bow Island and Ota- 
heite were all of the same character and formation as those already 
described, and furnished us with no additional information beyond 
the correct determination of their size and position ; which, with 
some remarks that may be useful to navigation, are given in the 
Appendix to the 4to. ed. Among the number there were two 
which were previously unknown ; the largest of these which was 
also the most extensive of our discoveries in the archipelago, I na- 
med Melville Island, in honour of the first lord of the Admiralty ; 
and the other, Croker Island, in compliment to the right honoura- 
ble secretary. 

The discoveries of Cook and Wallis in this track are relatively 
correctly placed ; but those of the latter are as much as forty miles 
in error in longitude, and several miles in latitude, which has occa- 
sioned two of them to be mistaken for each other by Bellinghausen, 
and one to be considered as a new discovery by Captain Duperrey. 
It would not have been easy to detect these errors, had we not vis- 
ited the discoveries of Wallis in succession, beginning with Whit- 
sunday and queen Charlotte's Islands, which are so situated that no 
mistake in them could possibly occur. Moreover, we always 
searched the vicinity, narrowly for the existence of other islands. 

The mistakes have arisen from placing too much confidence in 
the longitude of the early navigator. The true place of Cumber- 
land Island lying much nearer the alleged position of Wallis's Prince 
William-Henry Island than any other, has occasioned Bellinghau- 
sen's mistake ; and the true position of Prince William-Henry be- 
ing so remote from any of Wallis's discoveries, as placed by him- 
self, has made Captain Duperrey think the one which he saw could 
not possibly be one of them, and he in consequence bestowed upon it 
the new name of L'Ostange. 

There can be no doubt that the island which I consider Prince 
William-Henry Island is the L'Ostange of Captain Duperrey, as we 
had an opportunity of comparing longitudes with him at Moller Isl- 
and ; and it is equally certain that this island is the same with that 
discoverd by Wallis, as at its distance from Queen Charlotte's Isl- 
and and his other discoveries to the eastward, each of which we 
visited, exactly coincides. Wallis has certainly erred ten miles in 
latitude, but it should be recollected that the position of the island 
was fixed by reckoning from noon, the island having been seen at 
daybreak " far to windward ;" and it should not be overlooked that 
his latitude at Cumberland Island the day before was eight miles in 



1826.] and beering's strait. 163 

error the same way, which makes it very probable that either his 
observations were indifferent, or that he had incorrect tables of de- 
clination. 

In forming this conclusion, I am aware that I am depriving Cap- 
tain Duperrey of the merit of a discovery, but he will, it is hoped, 
admit the justice of my opinion. 

All the islands seen by Cook, Wallis, and Carteret, lying within the 
limit of our survey, have been found to be accurately described, ex- 
cepting that their size has always been overrated ; a mistake very 
likely to arise with low strips of land deficient in familiar objects to 
direct the judgment where actual measurement is not resotred to. 

The discoveries of Mr. Turnbull are so loosely related in his en- 
tertaining Voyage, that their situation cannot be entertained ; and 
unless some better clue to them is given, they will always be liable 
to be claimed by subsequent navigators. 

Of the thirty -two islands which have thus been visited in succes- 
sion, only twelve are inhabited, including Pitcairn Island, and the 
amount of the population- altogether cannot possibly exceed three 
thousand one hundred souls : of which one thousand belong to the 
Gambier groupe, and twelve hundred and sixty to Easter Island, 
leaving eight hundred and forty persons only to occupy the other 
thirty islands. 

All the natives apparently profess the same religion ; all speak 
the same language, and are in all essential points the same people. 
There is a great diversity of features and complexion between those 
inhabiting the volcanic islands and the natives of the coral formations, 
the former being a taller and fairer race. This change may be attri- 
buted to a difference of food, habits, and comfort ; the one having 
to seek a daily subsistence upon the reefs, exposed to a burning 
sun and to the painful glare of a white coral beach, while the oth- 
er enjoys plentifully the spontaneous produce of the earth, reposes 
beneath the genial shade of palm or bread-fruit groves, and passes 
a life of comparative ease and luxury. 

It has hitherto been a matter of conjecture how these islands, so 
remote from both great continents, have received their aborigines. 
The intimate connexion between the language, worship, manners, 
customs, and traditions of the people who dwell upon them, and 
those of the Malays and other inhabitants of the great islands to the 
westward, leaves no doubt of frequent emigrations from thence ; and 
we naturally look to those countries as the source from which they 
have sprung. The difficulty, however, instantly presents itself of 
proceeding so vast a distance in opposition to the prevailing wind 
and current, without vessels better equipped than those w T hich are 
in possession of the above-mentioned people. This objection has so 
powerfully influenced the minds of some authors that they have had 



164 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

recourse to the circuitous route through Tartary, across Beering's 
Strait, and over the American continent, to bring the emigrants to a 
situation whence they might be drifted by the ordinary course of the 
winds to the lands in question. But had this been the case, a more 
intimate resemblance would surely be found to exist between the 
American Indians and the natives of Polynesia. 

All agreed as to the manner in which these migrations between 
the islands have been effected, and some few instances have actually 
been met with ; but they have been in one direction only, and have 
rather favoured the opinion of migration from the eastward. The 
accident which threw in our way Tuwarri and his companions, who, 
it may be recollected, were driven six hundred miles in a direction 
contrary to the trade-wind in spite of their utmost exertions, has 
fortunately enabled us to remove the objections, which have been 
urged against the general opinion. The fact being so well attested, 
and the only one of the kind upon record, is, consequently, of the 
highest interest, both as regards its singularity, and as it establishes 
the possibility of the case, Though this is the only instance that 
has come to our knowledge, there is no reason why many other ca- 
noes may not have shared a similar fate ; and some few of many 
thousands, perhaps, may have drifted to the remotest island of the 
archipelago, and thus peopled them. 

The navigation of canoes between the islands in sight of each 
other was, and is still, very general :■ and it was not unusual, in ear- 
ly times, for warriors, after a defeat, to embark, careless of the con- 
sequences, in order to escape the persecution of their conquerors. 
To remain, was certain death and ignominy ; to fly, was to leave their 
fate to chance. 

The temporary obstruction of the trade wind in these seas, by 
the westerly monsoons, has not been duly considered by those who 
represent the difficulties as insurmountable. At the period of the 
year corresponding with our spring these gales commence, and blow 
with great violence during the rainy season. As they arise very 
suddenly, any canoes at sea must have difficulty in escaping them, 
and would, in all probability, be driven so far as never to be able to 
regain their native country, or be drifted to islands upon which 
their crews might be contented to dwell, in preference to encounter- 
ing farther risks. 

The traces of inhabitants upon almost all the islands of the low 
archipelago, many of which are at present uninhabited, show both 
the frequency with which these migrations have occurred, and 
the extent to which they have been made : some of these isolated 
spots where remains have been found, Pitcairn Island for instance, 
are 400 miles from any land whence inhabitants were likely to be 
derived; and the circumstance of their having abandoned that island 



1826.] and beering's strait. 165 

is a fair presumption that the people who landed there knew of other 
lands which there was a probability of their reaching, and which 
certainly could not be the coast of America, at least 2000 miles 
against the trade-wind. 

I shall now bring together a few facts connected with the forma- 
tion of these islands, which it is hoped may be useful to those per- 
sons who are interested in the subject, observing, in extenuation of 
the absence of more detailed information, that our time did not admit 
of more than was actually essential to the purposes of a correct de- 
lineation of their outline, and that in general the islands were so sur- 
rounded by breakers that it was dangerous to approach the shore, in 
the ship in particular, which alone was calculated to obtain very deep 
soundings. To windward this could not be done of course, and to 
leeward there was not unfrequently a heavier swell setting upon the 
island than in other parts of it. 

In speaking of the coral islands hereafter, my observations will 
be confined to the thirty-two islands already stated to have fallen 
under our examination. - The largest of them was thirty miles in 
diameter, and the smallest less than a mile : they were of various 
shapes; were all formed of living coral, except Henderson's Island, 
which was partly surrounded by it : and they all appeared to be in- 
creasing their dimensions by the active operations of the lithophytes, 
which appeared to be gradually extending and bringing the immers- 
ed parts of their structure to the surface. 

Twenty-nine of the number had lagoons in their centres, which 
is a. proportion sufficiently large, when coupled with information 
supplied from other parts of the globe where such formations abound , 
to render it almost certain that the remainder also had them in the 
early period of their formation, and that such is the peculiar struc- 
ture of the coral islands. And, indeed, these exceptions can scarce- 
ly be considered objections, as two of them — Thrum Cap, which 
is only seventeen hundred yards long by twelve hundred broad ; 
and Queen Charlotte's Island, which is not more than three quar- 
ters of a mile wide in its broadest part, and less than half a mile in 
other places — are so circumstanced, that, had their lagoons existed, 
they would have been filled in the course of time with the masses 
of coral and other substances which the sea heaps upon such 
formations as they rise above the surface ; they have, besides, 
long been wooded and inhabited, though deserted at the present 
moment, both of which would tend to efface the remains of a la- 
goon of such small dimensions. The sea, however, prevented our 
boats from landing upon either of these islands, to ascertain the fact 
of the early existence of lagoons. The other exception, Hender- 
son's Island, though of coral formation, appears to have been raised 
to its present height above the sea by a subterraneous convulsion, 



166 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

and has its centre so incumbered and overgrown with bushes that 
we could not determine whether it ever had a lagoon. 

In the above-mentioned twenty-nine islands the strips of dry coral 
enclosing the lagoons, divested of any loose sandy materials heaped 
upon them, are rarely elevated more than two feet above the level 
of the sea; and were it not for the abrupt descent of the external 
margin, which causes the sea to break upon it, these strips would 
be wholly inundated: this height of two feet is continued over a 
small portion only of the width of the island, which slopes on both 
sides, by an almost imperceptible inclination to the first ledge, where, 
as I said before, its descent is very steep ; but this is greatly altered 
by circumstances, and the growth or age of the island. Those parts 
of the strip which are beyond the reach of the waves are no longer 
inhabited by the animals that reared them, but have their cells fil- 
led with a hard calcareous substance, and present a brown rugged 
appearance. The parts still immersed, or which are dry at low 
water only, are intesected by small channels, and are so full of hol- 
lows, that the tide as it recedes leaves small lakes of water upon 
them. The width of the plain or strip of dead coral, in theTslands 
which fell under our observation, in no instance exceeded half a 
mile from the usual wash of the sea to the edge of the lagoon, and 
in general was only about three or four hundred yards. Beyond 
these limits, on the lagoon side in particular, where the coral was 
less mutilated by the waves, there was frequently a ledge, two or 
three feet under water at high tide,* thirty to fifty yards in width : 
after which the sides of the island descended rapidly, apparently by 
a succession of inclined ledges formed by numerous columns united 
at their capitals, with spaces between them in which the sounding 
lead descended several fathoms. This formation, though not clearly 
established as applying to all the islands, was so conspicuous in 
some as to justify the conclusion with regard to others. At Bow 
and Matilda Islands, I have been tolerably minute in my descrip- 
tions of them, and it will be unnecssary here to repeat what has 
been said there ; but these two, as also Henderson's Island, afford 
good examples of what I have been describing. 

All these islands are situated within the trade-wind, with the ex- 
ception of Oeno, which is only on the verge of it, and follow one 
general rule in haying their windward sides higher and more perfect 
than the others, and not unfrequently well wooded while the oppo- 
site ones are only half-drowned reefs, or are wholly under water. 
At Gambier and Matilda Islands this inequality was very conspicu- 
ous, the weather side of both being wooded, and of the former, in- 

* At Bow Island, on the sea side, it was more. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 167 

habited, while the other sides were from twenty to thirty feet under 
water, where they might be perceived equally narrow, and well de- 
fined. It is on the leeward side also that the entrances into the la- 
goons generally occur, though they are sometimes situated in aside 
that runs in the direction of the wind, as at Bow Island ; but I do 
not know of any one being to windward. The fact, if it be found 
to be general with regard to other coral islands, is curious, and is 
not fully accounted for by the continued operation of the tradewind 
upon its side, as the coincidence would suggest. After the reef has 
arrived at the surface of the sea, it is easy to conceive what would 
be the effect of the trade-wind ; but it does not seem possible that 
its influence could be felt so far under water as some of the reefs 
are situated. 

All the points or angles of these islands descend into the sea 
with less abruptness than the sides, and, I think, with more regu- 
larity. The wedge-shaped space that the meeting of the two sides 
would form in the lagoon is filled up by the ledges there being broad- 
er ; in such places, as well as in the narrow parts of the lake, the 
coralline are in greater numbers, though, generally speaking, all the 
lagoons are more or less incumbered with them. They appear to 
arise to the surface in the form of a truncated cone, and then, their pro- 
gress being arrested, they work laterally, so that if several of them were 
near each other they would unite and form a shelf similar to that which 
has been described round the margins of some of the lagoons. 

The depth of these lagoons is various : in those which we enter- 
ed it was from twenty to thirty-eight fathoms, but in others, to which 
we had no access, by the light-blue colour of the water it appeared 
to be very small. It is, however, tolerably certain that the coral 
forms the bases of them, and consequently, unless depositions of sand 
or other substances, obnoxious to the coral inscets, take place, their 
depth must depend upon their age. 

Very little offered itself to our notice, by which we could judge 
of the rapidity of the growth of the coral, as the islands which we 
examined had never been described with the accuracy necessary for 
this purpose ; and there were, consequently, no means of compar- 
ing the state in which they were found by us, with that which was 
presented to our predecessors ; but from the report of the natives, 
the coral bordering the volcanic islands does not increase very fast, 
as we never heard of any channels being filled up ; but, on the con- 
trary, that the passages through the reefs were apparently always 
in the same condition. The only direct evidence, however, which 
I could obtain of this fact was that of the Dolphin reef off Point 
Venus in Otaheite. This reef, when first examined by Captain 
Wallis in 1769, had "two fathoms water upon it." Cook sounded 
upon it a few years afterwards, and gave its depth fifteen feet. In 



168 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

our visit to this place, we found, upon the shallowest part of it, thir- 
teen feet and a half. These measurements, though at variance, 
from the irregulrity of the surface of the reef, are sufficiently exact 
to warrant the conclusion that it has undergone no very material al- 
teration during an interval, it should be recollected, of fifty-six years. 
But the Dolphin, as well as the above-mentioned reefs and chan- 
nels, are within the influence of rivers, which, in my opinion, ma- 
terially retard their increase, and their growth must not be taken as 
a criterion of that of the islands of which I have been speaking. 
With regard to them, there is one fact worthy of consideration, and 
upon which every person must form his own judgment. I allude 
to the remains of the Matilda, a ship which a few pages back is sta- 
ted to have been cast away upon one of these coral islands. In my 
description of Matilda Island, it is stated, that one of the anchors of 
this ship, a ton in weight, a four-pounder gun, her boilers and iron- 
work, are lying upon the top of the reef, two hundred yards from 
the present break of the sea, and are dry at low water.* The na- 
ture of these articles and the quantity of iron bolts and other mate- 
rials lying with them renders it probable that the vessel went to pie- 
ces in that spot, for had the sea been heavy enough to wash the an- 
chor from deeper water, the boiler must have been carried much be 
yond it ; and the question is, whether the hull of a vessel of the Ma- 
tilda's tonnage could be washed upon a reef dry at low water, and 
be deposited two hundred yards within the usual break of the sea. 
The circumstance of the hatches, staves of casks, and part of the 
vessel, being deposited in parts of the dry land not far distant, and 
scarcely more than four feet from the present level of the sea, of- 
fers a presumption that the sea did not rise more than that height 
above its ordinary level, or it would have washed the articles furth- 
er and left them in the lagoon, whence they would have been car- 
ried to sea by the current. 

The materials were not in the least overgrown with coral, nor 
had they any basin left round them by which the progress of the 
coral could be traced ; and yet, in other parts of this reef, we no- 
ticed the chama gigas of seven or eight inches in diameter so over- 
grown by it, that there was only a small aperture of two inches left 
for the extremity of the shell to open and shut. 

When the attention of men of science was called to these singu- 
lar formations by the voyages of Captain Cook, one opinion, among 
others respecting their formation was, that they sprung from a small 
base, and extended themselves laterally as they grew perpendicu- 
larly towards the surface of the sea ; and that they represented upon 
a large scale the form which is assumed by some of the corallines. 

* The rise of the tide is about two feet. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 1^9 

In particular this theory was entertained by Mr. John R. Forster 
who accompanied Captain Cook on his second voyage and visited 
several of the coral islands, and was founded, no doubt, upon the 
experience which he had derived, upon that voyage. But consid- 
ering the extent of some of these islands, it is evident that if this be 
their form, the lithophytes, the animals which construct them, must 
commence their operations at very great depths, a fact which is 
doubted by naturalists. The general opinion now is, that they have 
their foundations upon submarine mountains, or upon extinguished 
volcanoes, which are not more than four or five hundred feet im- 
mersed in the ocean ; and that their shape depends upon the figure 
of the base whence they spring. It would be immaterial which of 
these theories were correct, were it not that in the latter instance 
the lagoon that is formed in all the islands of this description might 
be occasioned by the shape of the crater alone, whereas, in the for- 
mer, it must result from the propensity of the coral animals, and 
this, if true, forms a remarkable and interesting feature in their nat- 
ural history. Mr. Forster* thought this peculiarity might arise from 
the instinct of the animacules forming the reefs, which from a desire 
to shelter their habitation from the impetuosity of the winds, and 
the power and. rage of the ocean, endeavoured to construct a ledge, 
within which was a lagoon entirely screened against the power of 
the elements, and where a calm and sheltered place was by these 
means afforded to the animals in centre of the island. 

Another reason why the consideration of the nature of their foun- 
dation is not immaterial is, that if the form of the islands arose from 
the peculiar shape of the craters, and it be admitted that the litho- 
phytes are unable to exist at greater depths than those above-men- 
tioned, we shall have examples of craters of considerably larger di- 
mensions and more complete in their outline, than any that are 
known upon the land, which, if true, is a curious fact. Until the 
voyage of the Blossom, it was not generally known that the lagoons 
in these islands were of such depths, or that the wall of coral which 
encircles them was so narrow and perfect, as in almost every in- 
stance it has been found ; nor that the islands were of such dimen- 
sions, as they were designated groupes, or chains of islands, inconse- 
quence of the wall being broken by channels into the lagoon ; but 
on examination, the chain is found continuous under water ; and as 
in all probability it will in time reach the surface and become dry, 
the whole groupe may be considered as one island. 

The subject of the formation of these islands is one of great in- 
terest, and will require a numerous and careful collection of facts 
before any entirely satisfactory conclusion can be arrived at. I re- 

a Forster's Observations, 4to, page 150. 

22 



170 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [March, 

gret that ray time did not permit me to inquire more particularly 
into this curious matter ; but having to survey about fifty islands, 
some of which were of great extent, in the space of about four 
months, I could not accomplish more than was absolutely necessary 
to the purposes of a safe navigation of the Archipelago. We were, 
however, not inattentive to the subject, and when opportunity offer- 
ed, soundings were tried for at great depth, and the descent of the 
islands was repeatedly ascertained as far as the common lines would 
extend. 

In considering the subject of these coral formations, my attention 
was drawn to the singularity of the occurrence of openings in them, 
either opposite to, or in the direction of some stream of fresh water 
from the mountains ; and on searching several charts, I find so many 
corroborations of the fact, that I have no doubt of the truth of it : 
as far as my own observations extended, it was always so. The 
aversion of the lithophytes to fresh water is not singular, as, inde- 
pendent of its not being the natural element of those animals, it 
probably supplies no materials with which they can work. 

It has been suggested, that these openings being opposite to val- 
leys, the continuation of them under water is the cause of the break 
in the reef. But when we consider the narrowness of these open- 
ings, compared with the width of the valleys, and that the latter 
are already filled up to the surface and furnished with a smooth 
sandy beach, many obstacles will be found to the confirmation of 
such an opinion ; and it appears to me more reasonable to attribute 
it to the nature of the element. The depth of these channels 
rarely exceeds twenty-five feet, the greatest limit probably to which 
the influence of fresh water would be felt. 

Henderson Island, one of the exceptions mentioned in the early 
part of this discussion, is among the rare instances of its kind in 
these seas. It is an island composed of dead coral, about eighty 
feet above the sea, with perpendicular cliffs nearly all the way . 
round it, as if after being formed in the ocean it had been pushed 
up by a subterraneous convulsion. These cliffs are undermined at 
the base, as though the sea had beaten against them considerable 
time in their present position. There are no marks upon them in- 
dicative of the island having risen by degrees ; but on the contrary, 
a plain surface indicating its ascent by one great effort of nature. 
On examining the volcanic islands near Henderson Island, no tra- 
ces appeared of the sea having retired ; and we may, therefore, 
presume it to have risen as. described. Its length is five miles, 
and breadth one mile : it is nearly encompassed by a reef of living 
coral, so wide that the cliffs, which were at first subjected to the 
whole force of the waves, are now beyond the reach even of their 
spray. 



1826.] and beeking's strait. 171 

The navigation of this archipelago was made at a period of the 
year when the westerly monsoon was about to commence, and to- 
ward the end of which it had actually begun, and materially retard- 
ed our operations ; but previous to that time, or about the begin- 
ning of March, the trade was fresh and steady, blowing between 
S. E. by E. and E. N. E., which is more northerly than the direc- 
tion of the same trade between corresponding parallels in the At- 
lantic. In consequence of this opposition to the trade wind the 
currents were very variable, sometimes setting to the eastward, and 
others in the opposite direction ; and on the whole, the body of 
water at that period is not drifted to the westward with the same 
rapidity that it is in other parts of the ocean within the influence 
of the tropical winds. The mean temperature for the above-men- 
tioned period, the weight and humidity of the atmosphere, with 
other meteorological observations, are given in the Appendix to the 
4to ed. under their respective heads. 

For the information of persons who may traverse this archipela- 
go, it is evident from the -account of Tuwarri, that there is a small 
island situated about half way between Byam Martin and Barrow 
Islands, which was not seen by us ; and hence it is possible that 
there are other low islands lying between the tracks of the Blossom 
which were not seen ; and ships ought in consequence to keep a 
vigilant look out during the night, or adopt the precaution of lying 
to when the weather is dark or thick. The lead is no guide what- 
ever in these seas, and the islands are so low that in the night the 
white line of the surf or the roar of the breakers would give the first 
warning. Fallacious as the appearance of birds is generally con- 
sidered, and in some parts of the globe justly so, in this archipela- 
go, when seen in flocks, it is an almost certain indication of land. 
They range about forty miles from the islands, and consist princi- 
pally of black and white tern. This, however, applies particularly 
to uninhabited islands ; for when they become peopled, the birds 
generally quit them, and resort to those where they are less mo- 
lested. 

At day -light on the 15th the Island of Maitea was seen in the 
north-west, and soon afterwards the mountains of Otaheite appear- 
ed five minutes above the horizon at the distance of ninety miles, 
from which its height may be roughly estimated at 7000 feet. As 
we passed Maitea we had an opportunity of verifying its position 
and ascertaining its height to be 1432 feet. Baffling winds pre- 
vented us from reaching our port until the evening of the 18th, 
when at the suggestion of Captain Charlton, his Majesty's consul 
for the Society and Sandwich Islands, from whom we had the 
pleasure of receiving a visit, we anchored in the outer harbor of 
Toanoa, about four miles to the westward of Matavai Bay. 



17d VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [March 



CHAPTER IX. 



Proceeding's at Otaheite — The Ship visited by the Queen Regent, the Royal Family, 
and several Chiefs — Short Account of the former since Captain Cook's Visit — 
Successful Issue of a Dispute with the Government respecting- the Detention of a 
trading Vessel — Visit to the Q,ueen Regent's House — Present Condition of 
the Chiefs and of the Inhabitants — Superstitions — Trial of Natives for Theft 
of the Ship's Stores — The King visits the Ship — Lake and Morai of Mira- 
paye — Dance exhibited by a Party of New Zealanders — Considerations on the Ef- 
fect of the Introduction of Christianity. 

The diversity of feature of the romantic Island of Otaheite form- 
ed a strong contrast with the monotonous appearance of the coral 
formations ; the variety of hill and valley, and of woods and rivers 
in the one, after the sameness of flat, sterile, parched-up surface in 
the other ; and the glassy smoothness of the harbours, around us, 
opposed to the turbulent shores we had recently quitted, were grat- 
ifying in the extreme, and impressed us most forcibly with the truth 
of the observations of our predecessors, who have spoken of the 
scenery of this island in the highest terms of commendation. 

As I proposed to remain here a few weeks to recruit the health 
of the crew, who were somewhat debilitated, and to prepare the 
ship for her voyage to the northward, she was moved to an inner an- 
chorage opposite a small village called Toanoa, and there secured 
by a cable fastened to some trees on one side, and by a bower an- 
chor dropped at the edge of a coral reef on the other. This reef 
forms one side of the harbour; which, though small, possesses seve- 
ral advantages over the more spacious one of Papiete generally re- 
sorted to, and of which the superior freshness and salubrity of its at- 
mosphere are not the most inconsiderable. 

Previous to entering upon a relation of our proceedings with the 
natives, it must be understood that the short time we remained, and 
our various occupations necessarily rendered our intercourse with 
them very limited compared with that of many of our predecessors. 
Still, it is hoped, the remarks which I shall offer will be sufficient 
to present a candid and faithful picture of the existing state of soci- 
ety in the island ; a feature by no means unimportant in the his- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 173 

tory of the country, which is otherwise complete. To exceed this, 
by dwelling upon the beauties of the scenery, the engaging manners 
of the inhabitants, their mythology, superstitions, and legends, &c. 
would be only to recapitulate what has been detailed in the inter- 
esting voyages of Wallis, Cook, Vancouver, Wilson, Turnbull, and 
others, and very recently by Mr. Ellis, in his valuable work entitled 
" Polynesian Researches," compiled after ten years' residence in 
the Pacific, and from the journals of other missionary gentlemen in 
those parts. In this useful work Mr. Ellis has traced the history of 
some of the islands through all their various stages ; he has explain- 
ed the origin of many of their barbarous customs, has elucidated 
many hitherto obscure points and has shown the difficulties which 
opposed themselves to the introduction of Christianity ; the hard- 
ships, dangers, and privations, which were endured by himself and 
his brethren, who, actuated by religious motives, were induced to 
sacrifice their own health, comfort, and worldly advantages in the at- 
tempt to ameliorate the condition of their fellow-creatures. BuO 
complete as that work is in many respects, it is nevertheless defi- 
cient in some essential points. The author, with a commendable 
feeling of charity, consonant with his profession, has by his own ad- 
mission in the account of the biography of Pomarree, glossed over 
the failings and dwelt upon the better qualities of the subject of his 
memoir ; and pursuing the same course throughout, he has impres- 
sed the reader with a more elevated idea of their moral condition, 
and with a higher opinion of the degree of civilization to which they 
have attained, than they deserve, or, at least, than the facts which 
came under our observation authorize. There seems to be no 
doubt that he has drawn the picture, generally, as it was presented 
to him ; but he has unconsciously fallen into an error almost insep- 
arable from a person of his profession, who, when mixing with so- 
ciety, finds it under that restraint which respect for his sacred office 
and veneration for his character create. As in our intercourse with 
these people they acted more from the impulse of their natural feel- 
ings, and expressed their opinions with greater freedom, we were 
more likely to obtain a correct knowledge of their real disposition j 
and habits. 

To convey to the reader, who has not perused the above-men- 
tioned work, an idea of the political state of the island, in which 
there has been a material alteration since the period alluded to in 
the early voyages, it w T ill be necessary to state briefly that since 
1815 a code of laws has been drawn up by Pomarree II. , with the 
assistance of the missionaries, which has subsequently been ex- 
tended from time to time; and that since 1825 a house of parlia- 
ment has been established, to which representatives of the several 
districts in the island are returned by popular election. The penal- 



174 voyage to the PACinc [March, 

ties proposed by Pomarree were very severe, but that of death has 
as yet been enforced upon four culprits only. 
( The limit thus imposed on the arbitrary power of the monarch, 
and the security thus afforded to the liberties and properties of the 
people, reflect credit upon the missionaries, who were very instru- 
mental in introducing these laws ; at the same time, had they been 
better informed in the history of mankind, they would have been 
less rigid upon particular points, and would have more readily pro- 
duced those benefits which they no doubt hoped would ensue. 
Magistrates are appointed to try cases, and conduct their judicial 
proceedings in open court, and the police are continually on the 
alert both day and night to prevent irregularities, and to suspress 
the amusements of the people, whom, from mistaken views of re- 
ligion, they wish to compel to lead a life of austere privation. 

We found the consul in possession of a small but comfortable 
house opposite the anchorage, which had been hastily run up by the 
natives for his use ; and took the earliest and most favourable oppor- 
tunity of impressing the importance of his situation upon the inhab- 
itants, by the salute due to his rank. Besides the missionary gen- 
tlemen, we found that several other Europeans were residing in our 
vicinity; and as some of these, as well as the consul, had their wives 
and female relatives with them, we looked forward to the pleasure 
of varying our intercourse with the uncouth natives by more agreea- 
ble society— an anticipation which was fully realised by their unre- 
mitting attention, especially on the part of the consul, whose house 
was the general resort of all the officers. 

Our arrival was immediately communicated, through the proper 
channel, to the queen regent, who lived about a mile from the an- 
chorage, and we received an intimation of her intention of paying 
an early visit to the ship. 

The arrival of a man-of-war at Otaheite is still an event of much 
interest, and brings a number of the inhabitants from the districts 
adjoining the port, some in canoes, others on foot. The little ham- 
let opposite the ship was almost daily crowded with strangers, and 
a vast number of canoes skimmed the smooth surface of the harbour, 
or rather the narrow channel of water which is tied to the shores of 
this luxuriant island by reefs of living coral. A remarkable excep- 
tion to this scene of bustle occurred on the day of our arrival, which, 
although Saturday, according to our mode of reckoning, was here 
observed as the Sabbath, in consequence of the missionaries having 
proceeded round by the Cape of Good Hope, and having thereby 
gained a day upon us. Next morning, however, a busy scene en- 
sued. Canoes laden with fruit, vegetables, and articles of curiosity, 
thronged as closely round the ship as their slender outriggers would 
allow, while such of the inhabitants as wanted these means of ap- 
proaching us awaited their harvest on the shore. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 175 

We soon found that the frequent intercourse of Europeans with I 
the islanders had effected an alteration in the nature of the curren- 
cy, and that those tinselled ornaments with which we had provided 
ourselves were now objects of desire only as presents ; the more 
substantial articles of clothing and hard dollars being required for 
the purposes of the market, except, perhaps, where a ring or a 
Jew's harp happened for the moment to attract the attention of some 
capricious individual. However gratified we might be to observe 
this advance towards civilization, we experienced considerable in- i 
convenience from its effects ; for on leaving the coast of Chili, very 
few of us had provided dollars, under an impression that they would 
not be necessary ; and those which we had were principally of the 
republican coinage, and as useless in the Otaheitan market as they 
would have been in New Zealand. No dollars bear their full val- 
ue here, unless the pillars on the reverse are clearly distinguishable, 
and a greater degree of value is attached to such as are bright than 
to others. So ignorant, indeed, were these simple people of the 
real worth of the coin, that it was not unusual for them to offer two 
that were blemished in exchange for one that was new, and in the 
market a yard of printed calico, a white shirt, new or old, provided 
it had not a hole in it (even a threadbare shirt that is whole being 
whimsically preferred to one which might have been eaten through 
by a mouse), or a Spanish dollar that had two pillars upon it, were 
in the ordinary way equivalent to a club, a spear, a conch shell, a 
paddle, or a pig. Deviations, of course, occurred from this scale, 
founded on the superior quality or size of the article, and occasion- 
ally on the circumstnces of the vendor, who, when he anticipated a bet- 
ter bargain, would accommodate his price to his preconceived opin- 
ion of the disposition of the purchaser. We were not more con- 
veniently circumstanced in regard to the clothing which we could 
offer in exchange, as we had a long voyage before us, and little to 
spare without subjecting ourselves to future incovenience. We, 
consequently, found ourselves at first surrounded with plenty, with- 
out the means of purchase, or obliged to part in payment with what 
we could very ill spare : and we incurred the additional risk of be- 
ing charged with parsimony, which the good people of Otaheite are 
very apt to attach to those who may not meet their ideas of gener- 
osity. " Taata paree," or stingy people, is an epithet which they 
always affix to' such persons, with a feeling of contempt, although 
they are themselves equally open to the charge, never offering a 
present without expecting a much larger one in return. It is very} 
desirable to secure a favourable impression by liberality on your 
first arrival at this island ; it being a constant custom with the na- 
tives to mark those who have any peculiatity of person or manner 
by a nickname, by which alone the person will be known as long 



176 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [March, 

as any recollection of his visit may remain. Among the many in- 
stances which occurred of this, was one of a brother officer, who, 
when we quitted England, begged to be remembered to his old ac- 
quaintances in Otaheite ; but we found they had lost all memory of 
his name, and we at last only brought him to their recollection by 
describing his person, and mentioning that he had lost an eye by a 
wound received in service ; on which they at once exclaimed 
^"Tapane Matapo !" or " Captain Blind-eye." We were the more 
anxious to avoid aquiring a distinction of this kind for ourselves, as 
a Russian ship had just preceded us, the crew of which, according 
to the natives, purchased every thing that was offered without re- 
gard to price, at whom they laughed heartily, because one of the 
officers had given a blue jacket in exchange for a pearl which had 
been ingeniously made out of an oyster shell. 

Some of us, therefore, had recourse to the European residents, 
and fortunately obtained what cloth and specie we wanted ; while 
others preferred bartering such porrions of their wardrobes as they 
considered unnecessary for their approaching change of climate. 

On the Monday succeeding our arrival, all the stores of the ship 
that required removal were landed and placed under a shed ; the ob- 
servatory was erected close to the consulate ; a rope-walk was con- 
structed, and the forge was put under the shade of some trees. Thus, 
as the shore was so near, all the duties Of the ship were carried on 
under our own immediate superintendence far more expeditiously 
than the confined space on board would have allowed. The sick 
were also landed, and provided with a place better adapted to their 
situation. 

The state of our provisions rendered it necessary to observe the 
strictest economy, for we had been confined to our own resources 
during several months, and Otaheite afforded nothing except beef 
and pork, nor had we any certainty of an opportunity of replenish- 
ing them. The bread fruit was, fortunately, at this time excellent, 
and was substituted for the daily allowance of flour, at first in mod- 
erate proportions, that no bad effects might arise from such a change 
of diet ; but, latterly, the crew were allowed as much as they could 
consume, by which necessary piece of economy we saved during 
our stay about 2,000 pounds of flour, the. most valuable articles of 
sea store ; a measure which subsequently proved of the utmost im- 
portance to us. I do not think that this fruit, though very delicious 
and more farinaceous than potatoes, is a satisfactory substitute for 
bread, but it is by no means a bad one. 

Foreseeing the possibility of being obliged to cure our own meat, 
we fortunately provided a quantity of salt for that purpose at Chili, 
an article which we found very scarce at Otaheite ; and the consul 
made arrangements for salting both beef and pork for our future use, 



1826.] and beering's strait. 177 

which succeeded uncomomonly well ; and he materially forwarded 
the object of our voyage by exerting himself to satisfy all our de- 
mands, so far as their resources would admit. Before our arrival arti- 
cles of food were sufficiently cheap ; but the great demand which we 
occasioned materially enhanced their prices, and there appeared to 
be a great dislike to competition. The resources of the island, fruit 
excepted, are considerably diminished from what they formerly were, 
notwithstanding the population at one time exceeded its present 
amount twenty-fold. 

On the day appointed for the visit of the royal party, the duty 
of the ship was suspended, and we were kept in expectation of their 
arrival until four o'clock in the afternoon, when I had the honour of 
receiving a note, couched in affectionate terms, from the queen re- 
gent, to whom, as well as to her subjects, the loss of time appears 
to be immaterial, stating her inability to fulfil her engagement, but 
that she would come on board the following day. Scarcely twenty 
minutes had elapsed, however, from the receipt of this note, when 
we were surprised by the appearance of the party, consisting of the 
queen regent, the queen dowager and her youthful husband, and^ 
Utamme and his wife. Their dress was an incongruous mixture of 
European and native costumes ; the two queens had wrappers of 
native cloth wound loosely round their bodies, and on their heads 
straw poked bonnets, manufactured on the island, in imitation of 
some which had been carried thither by European females, and 
trimmed with black ribands. Their feet were left bare, in opposi- 
tion to the showy covering of their heads, as if purposely to mark 
the contrast between the two countries whose costumes they united; 
and neatly executed blue lines formed an indelible net-work over 
that portion of the frame which in England would have been cov-J 
ered with silk or cotton. Utamme, who, without meaning any in- 
sinuations to the disadvantage of the queen, appeared to be on a 
very familiar footing with her majesty, (notwithstanding he was ac- 
companied by his own wife), was a remarkably tall and comely 
man ; he wore a straw hat, and a white shirt, under which he had 
taken the necessary precaution of tying on his native maro, and 
was provided with an umbrella to screen his complexion from the 
sun. This is the common costume of all the chiefs, to whom an 
umbrella is now become almost as indispensable as a shirt ; but by 
far the greater part of the rest of the population are contented with 
a mat and a maro. 

It may be desirable, in this early period of our communications 
with the court of Otaheite, to state the relationship which exists be- 
tween the reigning family and Otoo, who was king of the larger 
peninsula at the period of Captain Cook's last visit. 

Otoo, after Cook's departure, was surnamed Pomarree, from a\ 

23 



178 voyage to the pacific [March, 

hoarsenss that succeeded a sore throat which he caught in the moun- 
tains, and this afterwards became the royal patronymic. His son, 
Pomarree II. , who was a child at that period, succeeded him in 
1803, and reigned until December, 1821, when, having effected 
many most important changes in the customs of the island, and hav- 
ing, under the zealous exertions of the missionaries, converted the 
chief part of the population to Christianity, he expired in a fit of 
apoplexy, accelerated no doubt, by frequent excesses. Of this man 
it may be lamented that his exertions in the cause of Christianity 
were not seconded in the fullest extent by a rigid adherence to its 
precepts in his own person. He had two. wives, or rather a wife 
and a mistress, who were sisters, named Terre-moe-moe, and Po- 
marree Waheine. This woman, daughter of the King of Ulietea, 
had been sent for from Huaheine to be married to the king, but be- 
ing accompanied by her sister, Terre-moe-moe, who was very su- 
perior in personal attractions, the latter captivated his majesty at 
first sight, and received the honour of his hand, while Pomarree 
Waheine was retained in the more humble capacity of mistress. 
Each sister bore a child, Terre-moe-moe giving birth to Pomarree 
III., and the mistress presenting him with a daughter named Aimat- 
ta, the present queen. Pomarree III. was only six years old at the 
f time we arrived, and the regency was administered by his aunt Po- 
marree Waheine, who I suppose was considered a more fit person 
to manage the affairs of the state than her sister, who had doubtless 
the greater claim to the office. We found that the queen mother, 
widow of Pomarree II., had married a chief of Bora Bora, a fine- 
looking lad often or eleven years of age, and that Aimatta was uni- 
I ted to a chief of Huaheine, a short corpulent person, who, in con- 
sequence of his marriage, was allowed to bear the royal name of 
I Pomarree, to which, however, in allusion to his figure, and in con- 
I formity with their usual custom, they had added the appropriate 
\but not very elegant surname of " Aboo-rai," or big-belly. 

We treated the royal party with a few good things which remain- 
ed, and they landed at night, highly delighted with a display of fire 
works purposely prepared for them. Next morning the party re- 
peated their visit, somewhat better dressed, and accompanied by 
Aimatta and Aboo-rai. They were followed by a large double ca- 
noe and many small single ones, bearing upon their gunwales heaps 
of fruit and roots, and four enormous hogs, at the imminent risk of 
upsetting the whole. The double canoe was the "last of her race," 
and had been used for the nobler purposes of war, but, like the in- 
habitants, was now devoted to humbler but more useful occupations. 
As soon as the queen reached the deck she tendered the present 
to me in the name of the young king, then at the missionary school 
at Eimeo, and I returned the compliment that was due to her for 



1326.] and beering's strait. 179 

this mark of her attention, as well as for the munificence of the gift. 
As soon as the remainder of the party were assembled, it was pro- 
posed that we should adjourn to the breakfast prepared in the cab- 
in ; but the regent desired that every part of the present should 
previously be set out on a particular part of the deck, pigs and all, 
in order to impress us more fully with an idea of her liberality ; and 
when the whole was collected, she led me to the pile, and expatia- 
ted on the superior quality of the fruit. 

Having at length assembled at breakfast, which by this time was 
cold, a difficulty arose, I was informed, in consequence of Aimatta, 
the king's sister, being unwilling to relinquish the distinction she had 
enjoyed under the former custom of the island, which rendered it 
indecorous for some of her countrywomen, who were of the party, 
to presume to eat in the presence of so exalted a personage. As 
these distinctions, however, had been removed upon the introduc- 
tion of Christianity, there was an evident apprehension of giving of- 
fence to the assembled chiefs by such a display of ambition on the 
present occasion. The inconvenience which it was suggested would 
attend the observance of the custom in this instance, and the oppo- 
sition afforded by the precepts of the missionaries to any such mode 
of displaying the royal prerogative, relieved us from our dilemma. 
A cloud of discontent hung for a time on the countenance of our 
royal guest, but it was dispelled by the first breeze of mirth* and 
the party appeared to enjoy greatly the remainder of their visit. 

It is by no means surprising that the chiefs should wish to adhere 
to such of their old customs as constituted the principal if not the 
only distinction between them and their vassals. Should they be 
deprived of these, and should the superstitions, by means of which 
they awed the lower classes of the community, be brought into con- 
tempt, they would be left with no other superiority than that con- 
ferred by bodily strength ; for in education, and not unfrequently 
even in wealth, their advantages were very limited. Pomarree, in 
framing his laws to meet the new circumstances of his subjects, 
seems to have been too zealous in pressing his reforms in this as 
well as in many other points. It would be ridiculous to advocate 
the perpetuation of customs fit only for the darkest ages of barbar- 
ism ; but it might probably not be unwise to retain in the earlier 
progress towards improvement such as are least objectionable ; par- 
ticularly in a country like Otaheite, where their observance had 
been enforced with the greatest rigour. The effect produced by 
the abolition of that most detestable of all their pagan rites, human 
sacrifice, is noticed by Mr. Ellis in his Polynesian Researches, to 
have endangered the royal authority,* 

♦He says (vol. ii. p. 378,) that " many, free from the restraint it (human sacrifice) 
had imposed, seemed to refuse almost all lawful obedience and rightful support to 
the kinsr." 



180 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [March, 

In the course of the day several chiefs came on board, dressed 
in white shirts and straw hats ; and were all remarkable for their 
extraordinary height and noble appearance. Whether this superior- 
ity of stature is the result of the better quality of their food, or 
whether, by the commission of infanticide, their parents have pre- 
served only the largest or most healthy children, and bestowed upon 
them a more careful nursing than may have fallen to the lot of their 
vassals, 1 cannot say, but it is beyond a doubt that the advantage 
which their chiefs enjoyed in this respect had a strong influence on 
the minds of the simple Otaheitans, who were with difficulty con- 
vinced that the size of the purser (who was the largest man in the 
ship) did not confer on him the best claim to be the Ratira-rai, or 
captain of the Blossom. 

The arrival of the chiefs was an event very favourable to the 
wishes of the consul, who availed himself of the opportunity it af- 
forded of urging, with some prospect of success, the repeal of an or- 
der issued by the regent, which had occasioned serious mischief to 
one of our merchant ships ; and which, if not speedily rescinded, 
must have endangered not only the property, but even the lives of 
individuals trading to these islands. The consul had already ap- 
pealed against the obnoxious decree, but it was at a time when he was 
not supported by the presence of a king's ship ; and the short-sighted 
policy of the regent did not anticipate the probability of the consul soon 
receiving such a strong support to his negotiation. She had ventured, 
therefore, to dismiss his remonstrance, intimating that she was fully 
aware of his defenceless situation. The case under discussion was 
as follows. 

The queen, seeing the estimation in which the pearl oyster-shells 
were held by Europeans, imagined that by levying a duty on them 
she would greatly increase her revenue. Orders were accordingly 
issued to all the tributary islands to seize every vessel trading in 
shells, which had not previously obtained the royal licence to pro- 
cure them. The Chain Islanders, who, from their enterprising and 
maurauding habits, may be considered the buccaneers of the east- 
ern South Sea archipelago, were too happy to find themselves for- 
tified with a plea for a proceeding of this nature, and instantly sent 
one of their double canoes to Tiokea, where they found the Drag- 
on, an English brig, taking in pearl shells. These people behaved 
in a very friendly manner to her crew, and allowed her quietly to 
take her cargo on board ; but the Dragon was no sooner ready to 
put to sea, than several of the islanders went on board with the os- 
tensible purpose of taking leave, but suddenly possessing themselves 
of the vessel, overpowering the master and crew, binding their hands, 
and sending them on shore as prisoners. A general plunder of the 
vessel ensued, in which every thing moveable was carried away. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 181 

The natives, after this atrocious act, went to church to return thanks 
for their victory ; and to render their prayers more acceptable, remov- 
ed the bell of the ship to their place of worship. During several days 
they detained the master bound hand and foot, and debated wheth- 
er he should be put to death and eaten ; a fate which we were in- 
formed he would in all probability have encountered but for the in- 
terference of one of their chiefs, for the Tiokeans are still repu- 
ted to be cannibals, notwithstanding they have embraced the christian 
religion. The crew, more fortunate than their commander, very 
soon obtained their release, upon condition of fitting the brig for sea, 
the natives imagining they could navigate her themselves. The ves- 
sel being ready, the master, under some pretext, obtained permis- 
sion to go on board, and having speedily established an understand- 
ing with his crew, he cut the cables and carried her out to sea. 

The stolen property was of course never recovered, and the 
vessel was so plundered of her stores that the object of her voyage 
was lost. When she reached Otaheite the master stated the case 
to the consul, whose representation of the outrage to the queen was, 
as has already been said, treated with derision. The consul availed 
himself of the present occasion to obtain restitution of the stolen 
property, or remuneration for the owners, and a repeal of the ob- 
jetionable order, the execution of which it is evident could not be safe- 
ly confided to a barbarous people, at all times too prone to appro- 
priate to themselves whatever might fall within their reach. Her 
majesty was exceeding unwilling to abandon this source of revenue, 
and strenuously urged her indubitable right to levy taxes within her 
own dominions, maintaining her arguments with considerable shrewd- 
ness, appealing finally to the chiefs. Finding them, however, dis- 
posed to accede to the demands of the consul, she burst into tears ; 
but at length consented, by their advice, to send a circular to the Pa- 
moutas, or Low Islands, directing that no molestation should be of- 
fered ' to any vessels trading in shells, or touching at those islands 
for refreshment ; but on the contrary that all necessary aid and as- 
sistance should be afforded to them ; and that in the event of any 
dispute, the matter should be referred to the authorities at Otaheite. 

This concession destroyed the complacency of the queen for 
some time, but she recovered her spirits in the course of the after- 
noon, and amused herself much by listening to the drum, which she 
begged might be permitted to play on the upper deck. As this 
species of music, however, was not very agreeable in the confined 
space of a ship, it was proposed that the instrument should be re- 
moved to the shade of some tall trees on the shore, whither the 
whole party repaired ; the drummer continuing his performance, 
and marching to and fro, until he became heartily tired, to the infi- 



182 voyage to the pacific [March, 

nite delight of the assembled populace, who crowded round, and 
even scaled the loftiest trees, to obtain a glimpse of him. 

A few days after this visit the queens came again to Toanoa, and 
I invited them into the tent we had pitched on shore, with the view 
of making a present to each of them, and of confiding to their care 
the presents intended for Pomarree Aboo-rai, Aimatta, and Utam- 
me, who were absent. The present for the king, which consisted 
of a handsome double-barrelled gun inlaid with silver, with some 
broad cloth and other valuables, I reserved until I should have an 
opportunity of seeing him. The other parcels were apportioned 
according to what I considered to be the rank of the parties, and the 
name of each person was placed on his destined share. The re- 
gent, however, opened them all, and very unceremoniously trans- 
ferred a portion of each to her own, and huddling the whole togeth- 
er, she sent them off to her canoe. Then finishing half a bottle of 
brandy between them, the regent and her sister despatched the re- 
mainder of the spirits after the presents, and took their leave. 

In the course of the day we received an invitation to pass the 
evening at the regent's house at Papiete, a very romantic spot about 
a mile from the place where the ship was anchored. After a de- 
lightful walk along the shore in the refreshing coolness which suc- 
ceeds a tropical day, we arrived at the royal residence, which was 
in one of those spacious sheds frequently mentioned by my prede- 
cessors. It was about a hundred feet in length, by thirty-five in 
width, of an oval form, with a thatched roof, supported upon small 
poles placed close together. By the light of the moon we dis- 
covered a small door about mid-way between the extremities, which 
we entered, and immediately found ourselves in darkness. On 
grouping our way, our shins came in contact with several bamboo 
partitions dividing the area into various compartments. In one of 
these we distinguished by the rays of moonlight which fell through 
the interstices of the dwelling, that it was occupied by toutous, or 
common people, of both sexes. We, therefore, turned to the op- 
posite direction, which soon led us to the royal saloon, which we 
found illuminated by a yellow and melancholy light proceeding 
from a rag hung over the edge of a broken cocoa-nut shell half fil- 
led with oil; The apartment, to our surprise, was quite still; but 
we were soon greeted with the salutation of " Euranna-poy" (How 
do you do ?) from a number of atheletic men, her majesty's favour- 
ites, as they awoke in succession from their nap. 

We at length discovered the queen regent extended upon a mat 
spread upon dried grass, with which the whole apartment was strew- 
ed ; around her, upon mats also, were several interesting young fe- 
males ; and occupying a wooden bedstead, placed against a slight 
partition, which contained numerous cases filled with cocoa-nut oil,. 



1826.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 183 

we found Pomarree Aboo-rai, and Aimatta. Our entry threw this 
numerous party into a state of activity and bustle, some to procure 
a second light, and some to accommodate us with mats ; while Po- 
marree, drawing his tappa round him, led forward his princess, 
Aimatta, and extended his politeness much beyond what we could 
possibly have anticipated from so young a husband. 

Fearful that we might have misunderstood the morning invitation, ] 
or that we were later than we had been expected, we began to of- 
fer apologies, and to excuse ourselves for breaking in upon the re- 
pose of the party ; but the indisposition of the queen appeared to 
be the cause, as she was suffering from repletion, and, forgetting all 
about the invitation, had retired earlier than usual. She had scarce- 
ly had sufficient rest when we arrived to engage in any amusement 
herself, but gave us a friendly reception, and desired that a dance 
might be performed for our entertainment. This was an indulgence 
we hardly expected, such performances being prohibited by law, 
under severe penalties, both against the performers, and upon those 
who should attend such exhibitions ; and for the same reason it was 
necessary that it should be executed quietly, and that the vivo, or 
reed pipe, should be played in an under tone, that it might not reach 
the ears of an aava, or policeman, who was parading the beach, in 
a soldier's jacket, with a rusty sword ; for even the use of this me- 
lodious little instrument, the delight of the natives, from whose na- 
ture the dance and the pipe are inseparable, is now strictly prohib- 
ited. None of us had witnessed the dances of these people before 
they were restrained by law ; but in that which was exhibited on 
the present occasion, there was nothing at which any unprejudiced 
person could take offence ; and it confirmed the opinion I had often 
heard expressed, that Pomarree, or whoever framed the laws, would I 
have more effectually attained his object had these amusements been 
restricted within proper limits, rather than entirely suppressed. To 
some of us, who had formed our opinion of the native dance of this 
island from the fascinating representation of it by Mr. Webber, who 
accompanied Captain Cook, that which we saw greatly disappointed 
our expectation, and we turned from it to listen to the simple airs 
of the females about the queen, who sang very well, and were ready 
improvisatrices, adapting the words of the song to the particular^ 
case of each individual. 

While these amusements engaged the attention of our party, scenes^ 
of a very different nature were passing in the same apartment, which 
must have convinced the greatest sceptic of the thoroughly immoral 
condition of the people ; and if he reflected that he was in the royal ^ 
residence, and in the presence of the individual at the head of both 
church and state, he would have either concluded, as Turnbull did 
many years before, that their intercourse with Europeans had tend- 



184 voyage to the pacific [March, 

\ed to debase rather than to exalt their condition, or that they were 
wilfully violating and deriding laws which they considered ridicu- 
lously severe. 

/ In our intercourse with the chiefs and middle classes of society, 
'the impression left by this night's entertainment was in some meas- 
ure removed ; and especially as regards the former, who are, on the 
Whole, a well-behaved class of men, though they are much addicted 
\to intemperance. A party of them, among which were Utammee 
and Pa-why, came on board one day, and having received a present 
of a bottle of rum from the cabin, went to pay a visit to the gun- 
room officers, who politely offered them a glass of wine, but evin- 
cing some reluctance to this beverage, rum was placed upon the 
table, upon which the chiefs manifested their approbation, and 
Utammee seizing the bottle requested it as a present, and then 
emptying their glasses, which had been filled with wine, to the toast 
of Eurannapoy , they bowed politely and withdrew. This partiality 
for spirits seems to be an incorrigible vice, and it is a fortunate cir- 
cumstance that their means of indulging in it are so very limited. 
Some of them have materially benefited by the residence of the 
missionaries, and, in particular, two who resided at Matavai, about 
four miles to the eastward of our anchorage. They piqued them- 
selves on their imitation of European customs, and had neat little 
cottages, built after the European style, with whitewashed fronts, 
which, peeping through some evergreen foliage, had a most agreea- 
ble effect, and being the only cottages of this description upon the 
island in the possession of the natives, were the pride of their owners. 
The apartments contained chests, chairs, a table, and a knife and 
fork for a guest ; and nothing gave these chiefs greater pleasure than 
the company of some of the officers of the ship. Each of them 
could read and write their own language, and the elder, Pa-why, 
had, I believe, been useful to the missionaries in translating some 
part of the Scriptures. He was the more learned of the two broth- 
ers; but Hetotte was the more esteemed, and was an exception to 
almost all his countrymen in not asking for what was shown to him. 
His inquiries concerning the use of every thing which offered itself 
to his notice, on coming on board the ship, surprised and interested 
us ; while his amiable disposition and engaging manners won him 
the esteem of almost all on board. An anecdote illustrative of his 
character will be read with interest. The missionaries had for sev- 
eral years endeavoured to produce a change of religion in the island, 
by explaining to the natives the fallacy of their belief, and assuring 
them that the threats of their deities were absurd. Hetotte at 
length determined to put their assertions to the test, by a breach of one 
of the strictest laws of his religion, and resolved either to die under 
the experiment or embrace the new faith. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 185 

A custom prevailed of offering pigs to the deity, which were 
brought to themoraiand placed upon whattas, orfantus, for the pur- 
pose. From that moment they were considered sacred, and if after- 
wards any human being, the priests excepted, dared to commit so great 
a sacrilege as to partake of the offering, it was supposed that the of- 
fended god would punish the crime with instant death. Hetotte 
thought a breach of this law would be a fair criterion of the power 
of the deity, and accordingly stole some of the consecrated meat, 
and retired with it to a solitary part of the wood to eat it, and per- 
haps to die. As he was partaking of the food, he expected at each 
mouthful to experience the vengeance he was provoking ; but hav- 
ing waited a considerable time in the wood in awful suspense, and 
finding himself rather refreshed, than otherwise by his meal, he 
quitted the retreat and went quietly home. For several days he 
kept his secret, but finding no bad effects from his transgression he 
disclosed it to every one, renounced his religion, and embraced 
Christianity. Such instances of resolution and good sense, though 
they have been practised before, are extremely rare in Otaheite, 
and in this sketch of two brothers a highly favourable picture is 
presented of the class to which they belong ; though there are oth- 
ers, particularly Taate, the first and most powerful chief upon the 
island, who are equally deserving of favourable notice. 

Of the rest of the population, though their external deportment^ 
is certainly more guarded than formerly, in consequence of the se- 
vere penalties which their new law T s attach to a breach of decorum, 
yet their morals have in reality undergone as little change as their 
costume. Notwithstanding all the restrictions imposed, I do not 
believe that I should exceed the bounds of truth in saying, that, if 
opportunity offered, there is no favour which might not be obtained 
from the females of Otaheite for the trifling consideration of a Jew's j 
harp, a ring, or some other bauble. 

Their dwellings, with the exception of doors to some, and occa-1 
sionally latches and locks, are precisely what they were when the 
island was first discovered. The floor is always strewed with grass, 
which they are not at all careful to preserve clean or dry, and it 
consequently becomes extremely filthy and disagreeable ; and when J 
it can be no longer endured, it is replaced by fresh material. Their 
household furniture has been increased by the introduction of vari- 
ous European articles; and a chest, or occasionally a bedstead, may 
be seen occupyiug the corner of an apartment ; but these are not 
yet in great demand, the natives having little to put into the former, 
and esteeming such of the latter as have found their way to Otahe- 
ite scarcely more desirable places of repose than their mats spread 
upon straw. The extreme mildness of the climate, however, suf- 

24 



186 voyage to the pacific [March, 

ficiently accounts for the contented state of the population in this 
respect. 

Their occupations are few, and in general only such as are neces- 
sary to existence or to the gratification of vanity. In our repeated 
visits to their huts we found them engaged either in preparing their 
meals, plaiting straw-bonnets, stringing the smallest kinds of beads 
to make rings for the fingers or the ears, playing the Jew's harp, or 
lolling about upon their mats ; the princess excepted, whose great- 
est amusement consisted in turning a hand-organ. The indolence 

(of these people has ever been notorious, and has been a greater bar 
to the success of the missionaries than their previous faith. The 

| fate of the experiment on the cotton in Eimeo is an exemplification 
of this. It is well known that the land was cleared, and the cotton 
planted and grown, but the perseverance to clean the crop, to make 
it marketable, was wanting ; and finding no sale for the articles in 
its rude state, they forbore to cultivate it the next year. A small 
portion, however, was picked by way of experiment: the mission- 
aries taught the girls to spin, and even furnished them with a loom, 
and instructed them in the use of it, upon condition that they should 
weave fifty yards of cloth for the king, and fifty for themselves. 
The novelty of the employment at first brought many pupils, but 
they would not persevere, and not one was found who fulfilled the 
engagement. The proportion due to the king was wove, but not 
as much more as would make a single gown, and the pupils, after a 
dispute regarding their wages, abandoned the employment about the 

[period of our arrival. " Why should we work ?'-■' they would say to 
us ; " have we not as much bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, vee- 
apples, &tc. as we can eat ? It is very good for you to work who 
require fine clothes and fine ships; but," looking around their apart- 
ment with evident satisfaction, ". we are contented with what we 
possess." And in disposition they certainly appeared to be so ; for 
a more lively, goodnatured, inoffensive people it is impossible to 
conceive. The only interruption to their general serenity appears 
to be occasioned by the check which the laws have placed upon 
their amusements ; a feeling which became very apparent the mo- 
ment the missionaries were mentioned. They have in general, 
however, a great respect for those gentlemen, and are fearful of the 
consequences of offending them. 

Some of the natives had an indistinct notion of this philanthropic 
society, and were not a little surprised at being told that we were 
not missionaries ; and in answer to their inquiry u King George mis- 
sionary?" their astonishment was greatly increased at being inform- 
ed that he was not ; for as they had an idea that King George was 
at the head of the missionary society, they naturally imagined that 
his officers must of course also belong to it. This misconception 



1826.] AND BEERINO'S STRAIT. 187 

had been so generally entertained before our arrival, that we were 
told they had threatened to complain to the society of the master 
of a merchant ship who had by some means incurred their displeasure. 

The Otaheitans were always a very superstitious people, and 
notwithstanding their change of religion, still entertain most absurd 
notions on several points. Though they have ceased to give credit 
to any recent prophecies, many firmly believe they have seen the 
fulfillment of some of the predictions that were made before their 
conversion to Christianity, of which the invasion of the island by 
the natives of Bora Bora was one. This event was foretold by a 
little bird called Oomamoo, which bad the gift of speech, and used 
to warn persons of any danger with which they were threatened. 
On many occasions, when persons have taken refuge in the moun- 
tains to avoid a mandate for a victim for the morai, or to escape 
from some civil commotion, this little bird has been their guardian 
spirit, has warned them when danger was near, and directed them 
how to escape pursuit. I used to laugh at Jim, our interpreter, a 
good-natured intelligent fellow, for his belief in these tales; but he 
was always very earnest in his relation of them, and never allowed 
himself to join in our ridicule. Though he confessed that this little 
monitor had been dumb since the introduction of Christianity, yet it 
would evidently have been as difficult to make him believe it never 
had spoken, as that the danger of which it warned him had never 
existed; and this feeling is, I believe, common to all his country- 
men. Nothing is more difficult than the removal of early impressions, 
particularly when connected with superstitions. I was one evening 
returning with him round the shore of the bay from Papiete, a fa- 
vourite route, and was conversing on the superstitions of his coun- 
trymen, when we came to a retired spot crowned with tall cocoa- 
nut trees, with a small glen behind it. Night was fast approaching, 
and the long branches of the palm, agitated by the wind, produced 
a mournful sound, in unison with the subject of our conversation. 
As we passed I observed Jim endeavouring to get on the outside, 
and latterly walking in the wash of the sea ; and found that he never 
liked to pass this spot after dark for fear of the spirits of his unfortunate 
countrymen who were hanged there between the cocoa-nut trees. 
The popular belief, before the introduction of our faith, was, that 
the spirit of the deceased visited the body for a certain time, and, 
for this reason many of them would on no account approach this 
place in the night time. 

A few days after our arrival some offenders were brought to trial, 
and as we were desirous of witnessing the proceedings of the court, 
it was removed from its usual site, to the shade of some trees in our 
immediate vicinity. The court was ranged upon benches placed in 
successive rows under the trees, with the prisoners in front, under 



188 voyace to the pacific [March) 

the charge of an officer with a drawn sabre, and habited in a volun- 
teer's jacket and a maro. The aava-rai of the district in which the 
crimes had been committed took his place between the court and 
the prisoners, dressed in a long straw mat, finely plaited, and edged 
with fringe, with a slit cut in it for the head to pass through ; a 
white oakum wig, which, in imitation of the gentlemen of our 
courts of law, flowed in long curls over his shoulders, and a tall 
cap surmounting it, curiously ornamented with red feathers, and 
with variously coloured dresses of human hair. His appearance 
without shoes, stockings, or trousers, the strange attire of the head, 
with the variegated tresses of hair mingling with the oakum curls 
upon his shoulders, produced, as may be imagined, a ludicrous ef- 
fect ; and I regret that the limits of this work prevent my subjoining 
an admirable representation of it by Mr. Smyth. 

The prisoner being brought up, the aava read certain passages 
from the penal code, and then accused the prisoner of having stolen 
a gown from a European resident. He instantly pleaded guilty to 
the charge, and thereby saved a great deal of trouble. He was then 
admonished against the repetition of evil practices, and fined four 
hogs, two to the king, and two to the person from whom the prop- 
erty had been stolen. Bail is not necessary in Otaheite ; and the 
prisoner, consequently, was allowed to go where he pleased, which 
•of course was to such of his friends as were most likely to supply 
him with a hog. Three other persons were then put to the bar, 
and fined for a breach of our seventh commandment. The young 
lady, who had sinned with several persons, but two of whom only 
were detected, smilingly heard herself sentenced to make twenty 
yards of cloth, and the two men to furnish six posts -each, for a 
building that was about to be erected at Papiete. In default of pay- 
ment, transgressors are condemned to labour. 

Before we sailed, a more serious theft was committed on the 
stores of the ship, which had been placed under a shed, and like- 
wise on the wearing apparrel of one of the officers who was ill on 
shore. Immediately the aavas (policemen) heard of it, they were 
on the alert, and arrested two men, on whom suspicion fell, from 
their having slept in the place the night of the robbery, and abscond- 
ed early in the morning. The news of the offence spread with its 
accustomed rapidity among uncivilized tribes ; and various were the 
reports in circulation, as to the manner in which I intended to visit 
the misdemeanour. The prisoners at first acknowledged their guilt, 
but afterwards denied it ; and declared they had been induced to 
make the confession from the threats of the aavas who apprehend- 
ed them. Nothing was found upon them, and no person could be 
brought forward as direct witness of the fact ; so that their guilt rest- 
ed on circumstantial evidence alone, I was, however, anxious to 



1826.] and beering's strait. 189 

bring the offenders to trial, as all the sails and stores of the ship 
were on shore, and at the mercy of the inhabitants ; and unless se- 
vere measures were pursued in this instance, successive depreda- 
tions would in all probability have occurred. The chiefs were in 
consequence summoned, and at an early date the prisoners were 
brought to trial opposite the anchorage. As it was an extraordina- 
ry case, I was invited to the tribunal, and paid the compliment of 
being allowed to interrogate the prisoners ; but nothing conclusive 
was elicited, though the circumstantial proof was so much against 
them that five out of the six of the chiefs pronounced them guilty. 
The penalty in the event of conviction in a case of this nature is, 
that the culprit shall pay fourfold the value of the property stolen : 
in this instance, however, as the articles could not be replaced, and 
the value was far beyond what the individuals could pay, I propos- 
ed, as the chiefs referred the matter to me, that, by way of an ex- 
ample, and to deter others from similar acts, the prisoners should 
suffer corporal punishment. Their laws, however, did not admit 
of this mode of punishment, and the matter concluded by the chiefs 
making themselves responsible for the stores, and directing Pa-why 
to acquaint the people that they had done so, promising to make 
further inquiry into the matter ; which was never done, and the 
prisoners escaped : but the investigation answered our purpose 
equally well, as the stores afterwards remained untouched. The 
various reports which preceeded the trial, the assembling of the 
chiefs, and other circumstances, had brought together a great con- 
course of people. Pa-why, raising himself above the multitude, 
harrangued them in a very energetic and apparently elegant man- 
ner, much to the satisfaction of the inhabitants, who all dispersed 
and went quietly to their homes. The consideration which the 
chiefs gave to the merits of this question, and the pains they took 
to elicit the truth, reflect much credit upon them. The case was 
a difficult one, and Hetotte, not being able to make up his mind to the 
guilt of the prisoners, very honestly differed from his colleagues ; 
and his conduct, while it afforded a gratifying instance of the integ- 
rity of the man, showed a proper consideration for the prisoners, 
which in darker ages would have been sacrificed to the interested 
motive of coinciding in opinion with the majority. If we compare 
the fate which would have befallen the prisoners, supposing them 
innocent, had they been arraigned under the early form of govern- 
ment, with the transactions of this day, we cannot but congratulate 
the people on the introduction of the preseut penal code, and ac- 
knowledge that it is one of the greatest temporal blessings they have 
derived from the introduction of Christianity. At the same time 
it is just to observe, that had a similar depredation been committed 
under those circumstances, there is every reason to believe from 



190 voyage to the PACinc [March, 

former experience, that the real offender would have been detect- 
ed, and the property restored. 

On the 3rd April the young king landed at Otaheite from Eimeo, 
and was received with the most enthusiastic shouts of his subjects, 
who were assembled in great numbers on the beach to welcome his 
arrival. The following day he paid a visit to the ship, attended 
by the queen, a numerons retinue, and Mr. Pritchard, the principal 
missionary upon the island. I saluted the king on the occasion with 
nine guns, much to the delight of his subjects ; and presented him 
with the fowling-piece which was sent out by the government for 
that purpose. The stock was inlaid with silver, and the case hand- 
somely lined, and fitted up in a manner which made a deep impres- 
sion on the minds of the Qtaheitans, who are extremely fond of dis- 
play, and who expressed their approbation by repeated exclama- 
tions of " My-tie ! mia my-tie Pretannee !" as each article was ex- 
hibited. The king was a well-behaved boy, of slender make, unit- 
ing with the rudiments of an European education much native 
shrewdness ; and the chiefs were considerably interested in him, as 
they considered his education would give him advantages over his 
predecessors ; and his succession to the throne would remove the 
reins of government from the hands of the present possessor, whose 
measures were not always the most disinterested or beneficial to her 
country ; and who, in consequence of her influence with the Boo- 
ratiras, the most powerful body of men upon the island, often car- 
ried her plans into execution in spite of the wishes of the chiefs to 
the contrary. But the object of their hopes unfortunately died the 

f following year, and the sceptre passed to the hands of Aimatta, his 
sister, of whom the missionaries speak well. 
- Before we sat down to dinner, I was amused at Jim, the inter- 
preter, bringing me the queen dowadger's compliments, and " she 
would be much obliged by a little rum," to qualify a repast she had 
been making on raw fish, by way, I suppose, of provoking an appe- 
tite for dinner. We had missed her majesty a few minutes before 
from the cabin, and on looking over the stern of the ship, saw her 
seated in a native boat finishing her crude repast. 

A few days previous to this visit Lieutenant Belcher was des- 
patched in the barge to Mirapaye, in the district of Papara, to bring 
round a quantity of beef which had been prepared there for the 
ship's use by Mr. Henry, the son of one of the early missionaries. 
In this district there is a lake and a morai, of which it will be prop- 
er to give a short notice, as the former is considered curious, and 
foreigners are often led, by the exaggerated account of the natives, 
to visit the place, which really does not repay the trouble it involves. 
To convey some idea of the difficulty of reaching this lake, Lieu- 
tenant Belcher and Mr. Collie, who accompanied him, crossed a 



1826. J and beering's strait. 191 

stream which ran through the valley leading to it twenty-nine times 
in their ascent, sometimes at a depth considerably above their 
knees ; and after it was passed it was necessary to climb the moun- 
tain upon hands and knees, and to maintain their position by grasp- 
ing the shrubs in their way, which indeed were, for the most part, 
weak and treachrous, consisting principally of the musa sapientum, 
spondias dulcis, and some ferns. 

"In this manner," says Mr. Collie, " after tracing a zigzag and} 
irregular course, losing our way once or twice, we reached the high- 
est part of the aclivity ; and then descending a short distance, the 
puny lake burst upon our disappointed view." Its dimensions were 
estimated at three quarters of a mile in circumference ; and it was 
stated by the natives to be fourteen fathoms deep. The water of 
the lake was muddy, and appeared to receive its supplies from sev- 
eral small streams from the mountains, and the condensation of the 
vapour around, which fell in a succession of drops, and, bounding 
off the projecting parts of the cliff, formed here and there thin and 
airy cascades. Though there is a constant accession ofwater, there 
has not yet been found any outlet to the lake ; and what renders it 
still more curious is, that when heavy rains descend, the water, in- 
stead of rising and overflowing its margin, is carried off by some 
subterraneous channel. The natives say, when these rains occur 
there is a great rush of water from a large cavern beneath the bed 
of the lake. The temperature of the lake at seven a. m. was 72°, 
and that of the atmosphere 71°. During a shower of rain it rose to 
74° : a thermometer at the level of the sea at the same time stood 
at 77°. One side of the lake was bounded by lofty perdendicular 
precipices, the other by a gentle slope covered with the varied ver- 
dure of trees, shrubs, and ferns, with a few herbaceous plants. The 
general appearance of the country suggested the idea, of an enor- 
mous avalanche, which stopped up the valley, and intercepted the 
streams that heretofore found their way along its bed to the sea. 

The lake was estimated at 1500 feet above the level of the sea, 
and the cliffs from which this avalanche appeared to have been 
precipitated were considered to be eight hundred feet more. 
Though at so great a height, and so far from any large tract of land, 
this extraordinary basin is said to abound in fresh water eels of an 
enormous size. On the margin of the basin, blocks of columnar : 
basalt, with poros and vesicular lava, were heaped in great con- J 
fusion. 

On the eastern side, Mr. Belcher found great quantities of vesi- 
cular shaggy lava, which led him to suppose a volcano existed in 
the vicinity ; and he remarks that many persons who visited the 
lake were of the opinion that it was a crater filled with water. In 
other parts he collected some very perfect crystals of basaltic horn- 



192 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April, 

blend, and found one or two of ol vine on the surfarce of the vesicular 
lava. The lake appeared to be falling rapidly when they saw it ; 
at a place where Mr. Belcher was obliged to cross it there were 
eighteen inches of water ; some time after, at sunset, there were only 
six inches ; and the next morning the rock was dry. On examin- 
ing this place he noticed a large chasm beneath a rock, through 
which it appeared the water had found an outlet ; and favoured the 
opinion of the basin being caused by an avalanche. 

The morai is the same as that exhibited in the voyage of Mr. 
Wilson, and mentioned by Captain Cook. Its measurements have 
been given in those voyages, and perhaps more correctly than the 
present dilapated state of the edifice admits. But its history is in- 
teresting, as it was told by a desendant of the chief who erected it, 
and whose family, as well as himself, were priests of the god 
to whom it was consecrated. It differs in several respects 
from the account given by Mr. Ellis ; but I insert it as related to 
Mr. Belcher by the chief. 

The great-grandfather of Taati, the present chief, whose name 
holds a conspicuous place in the wars of Pomarree, was defeated in 
a pitched battle by the king. The chief, incensed at the god under 
whose protection he fought, went to Ulietea, and by devotion, pre- 
sents, and promises, induced the god of that place, Oroo, to accom- 
pany him to Otaheite. On his return, the new and, as it was sup- 
posed, powerful god, so inspired the refugee party with courage, 
that they again rallied around their chief, and so forcibly did the 
superstition of those dark ages operate, that the king, before victo- 
rious, was now repeatedly beaten and driven to the opposite side 
of the island. The chief, having secured tranquility to his district, 
began to construct the morai above alluded to, which was of such 
magnitude as to require two years for its completion. It was then 
dedicated to the god whose presence had achieved for him such 
repeated victories. 

The change effected in the circumstances of the chief of Papara 
by the introduction of this new god, acquired for the deity a repu- 
tation beyond any thing that had been known in Otaheite ; and the 
king determined to obtain possession of it. By bribing the priests, 
he was allowed to pay his devotions to the deity, and afterwards to 
fight under its auspices, which he did so successfully that he ulti- 
mately obtained possession of the idol. A morai was then built for 
it in the valley of Atehuru, situated between Mirapaye and Papiete ; 
memorable as the place where the last battle was fought which de- 
cided the cause between Christianity and paganism, and crowned 
with success the labours of the missionaries, who for eighteen years 
had been unremitting in their endeavours to accomplish this great 
end ; this valley is also celebrated in consequence of a strong-hold 



1826.] and beering's strait. 193 

on an eminence near it, where the old men and women used to re- 
tire in. all cases of attack upon the district. In this last and impor- 
tant battle Taati's brother lost his life, supporting to the last the 
cause of idolatry. Taati himself had been converted to the new 
faith, and was joined with Pomarree in opposition to his relation. 

While we were at anchor, a whale-ship arrived from New Zea- 
land, with a party of natives of that country on board, whom the 
master permitted to exhibit their war-dance for our diversion. After 
the duty of the day was over, the party assembled in front of the 
consul's house, and the Otaheitans, anxious for an opportunity of 
comparing the dances of other countries with their own, crowded 
round in great numbers to witness the performance. 

The exhibition took place by torch-light, and began by the party 
being drawn up in a line with their chief in advance, who regulated 
their motions ; which, though very numerous, were all simultaneous, 
and showed that they were well practised in them. They began 
by stamping their feet upon the ground, and then striking the palms 
of the hands upon the thighs for about a minute, after which they 
threw their bodies into a variety of contortions, twisted their heads 
about, grinned hideously, and made use of all kinds of imprecations 
and abuse on their supposed enemy, as if to defy him to battle : 
having at length worked themselves into a complete frenzy, they 
uttered a yell, and rushed to the conflict; which, from what we saw 
represented, must in reality be horrible ; the effect upon the peace- 
able Otaheitans was such that long before they came to the charge 
some of them ran away through fear, and all, no doubt, congratu- 
lated themselves that there was so wide an expanse of water be- 
tween their country and New Zealand. A dirge over the fallen 
enemy concluded the performance, which it is impossible adequate- 
ly to describe. We learned from the whaler, that Shonghi, the 
New Zealand chief w T ho was educated in England, was availing 
himself of the superiority he had acquired, and w T as making terrible 
ravages among his countrymen, whose heads, when dried, furnished 
him with a lucrative trade. 

On the 24th we prepared for our departure : during our stay we 
visited the natives almost daily in their habitations, and became well 
acquainted with their habits and manner of living ; but in this inter- 
course there was so little novelty, that, considering how many vol- 
umes have been written upon the country, by persons whose stay 
far exceeded ours, it w T ould be both tiresome and useless to detain 
the reader with their description. The conclusion generally arri-^j 
ved at was, that the people retain much of their original character 
and many of their habits, and appear to have been particularly de- 
scribed by Turnbull ; but if early historians err not, they have lost 

25 



194 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April, 

much of their cheerfulness, and the women a great deal of their 
beauty. 

Considering the advances the country had made toward the for- 
mation of a government by the election of a parliament, and by the 
promulgation of laws, we certainly expected to find something in 
progress to meet approaching events, yet in none of our excursions 
did we see any manufactures beyond those which were in use when 
the island was first discovered, but on the contrary, it was evident 
that they had neglected many which then existed. We were sorry 
to find that none of those in operation could be materially useful to 
the state ; that there were no dawnings of art, nor did there appear 
to be any desire on the part of the people to improve their condi- 
tion ; but so far from it, we noticed a feeling of composure and in- 
difference which will be the bane of their future prosperity. 
*"-" The island is nevertheless imperceptibly entering into notice : it 
is advantageously situated for various purposes of commerce, and, 
consequently, in the event of a war between England and other 
powers, it might be subjected to many annoyances from the most 
insignificant force — from and armed vessel indeed which might think 
it her duty to annoy the island on the ground of its reputed alliance 
with England. There are no works of defence to obviate such a 
possibility : the natives have not yet thought of the precaution, much 
less have they commenced any preparation, and the island through- 
out, is in a perfectly defenceless condition. The weapons with which 
their battles were formerly fought are now in disuse, and the inhab- 
itants have lost the skill necessary to employ them to advantage. 
A number of muskets distributed amongst the population creates an 
imaginary security, but the bad condition of the arms, and the want 
of powder, would render them unavailable. At all events they are 
deficient in an organized body of men ; a species of defence which 
seems necessary for the security of every country that does not wish 
her shores to be invaded, or to have her internal tranquillity distur- 
bed by feuds ; which in Otaheite have frequently occurred, and are 
very likely to do so again, either from the differences of opinion in 
the affairs of the government, or from the jealousies between the 
chief and the great landholders, the Boo Ratiras. Their tranquil- 
lity besides may have hitherto depended upon their obscurity, or 
on the equally defenceless condition of their neighbours with them- 
selves; but the extension of navigation has removed the one, and 
an advancement of civilization and of power has destroyed the bal- 
ance of the other. 

Religious books are distributed among the huts of such of the natives 
as are converted, or who are, as they term themselves, missi-narees ; 
but many of the inhabitants are still tooti-ouris or bad characters, an 
old expression signifying literally rusty iron, and now indiscriminate- 



i 



1826.] and beering's strait. 195 

ly used for a dissenter from the Christian religion and a low char- 
acter. These persons are now of no religion, as they have renoun- 
ced their former one, and have not embraced that which has been j 
recently introduced. 

Ignorance of the language prevented my obtaining any correct! 
information as to the progress that had been made generally towards 
a knowledge of the Scriptures by those who were converted ; but 
my impression was, and I find by the journals of the officers it was 
theirs also, that it was very limited, and but few understood the J 
simplest parts of them. Many circumstances induced me to believe 
that they considered their religious books very much in the same 
light as they did their household gods ; and in particular their con- 
duct on the occasion of a disturbance, which arose from some false 
reports at the time of the robbery on the stores of the ship, when 
they deposited these books in the mission, and declared themselves 
to be indifferent about their lives and property, so long as the sacred 
volume, which could be replaced at any time for a bamboo of oil, 
was in safety. In general those who were missi-narees had a pro-~] 
per respect for the book, but associating with it the suppression of 
their amusements, their dances, singing, and music, they read it with 
much less good will than if a system had been introduced which 
would have tempered religion with cheerfulness, and have instilled \ 
happiness into society. z 

The Otaheitans, passionately fond of recreation, require more re- 
laxation than other people ; and though it might not have been pos- 
sible at once to clear the dances from the immoralities attending 
them, still it would have been good policy to sanction these diver- 
sions under certain restrictions, until laws which were more import- 
ant began to sit easy on the shoulders of the people. Without^ 
amusements, and excessively indolent, they now seek enjoyment in 
idleness and sensuality, and too much pains cannot be bestowed to 
arouse them from their apathy, and to induce them to emerge from 
their general state of indifference to those occupations which arei 
most essential to their welfare. Looking only to the past, they at 
present seem to consider that they can proceed in the same easy 
manner they have hitherto done ; forgetting that their wants, for- 
merly gratified by the natural produce of the earth, have lately been 
supplied by foreign commodities, which, by indulgence, have be- 
come essential to their comfort ; and that as their wants increase, as 
in all probability they will, they will find themselves at a loss to 
meet the expenses of the purchase. They forget also that being 
dependent upon the casual arrival of merchant vessels for the sup- 
plies, they are liable to be deprived of them suddenly by the occur- 
rence of a war, or some other contingency, and this at a period per- 
haps when by disuse they will not have the power of falling back 
upon those which have been discontinued, 



196 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April, 

The country is not deficient in the productions adapted to com- 
merce. The sugar-cane grows so luxuriantly that from two small 
enclosurses five tons of white sugar are annually manufactured un- 
der the superintendence of an Englishman ; cotton has been found 
to succeed very well ; arrow-root of good quality is plentiful : they 
have some sandal-wood, and other ornamental woods suitable for 
furniture, and several dyes. Besides these, coffee and other grain 
might no doubt be grown, and they might salt down meat, which, 
with other articles I have mentioned, would constitute a trade quite suf- 
ficient to procure for the inhabitants luxuries which are in a gradual 
course of introduction, and to make it desirable for merchant vessels 
to touch at the island. It is not from the poverty of the island, 
therefore, from which they are likely to feel inconvenience, but 
from their neglect to avail themselves of its capabilities, and employ 
its productions to advantage. 

/ It seemed as if the people never had these things revealed to 
' them, or had sunk into an apathy, and were discouraged at finding 
each year burdened with new restrictions upon their liberties and 
enjoyments, and nothing in return to sweeten the cup of life. I 
cannot avoid repeating my conviction, that had the advisers of Po- 
marree limited the penal code at first, and extended it as it became 
familiar to the people ; had they restricted instead of suppressed the 
amusements of the people, and taught them such parts of the Chris- 
tian religion as were intelligible to their simple understandings, and 
were most conducive to the moral improvement and domestic com- 
fort, these zealous and really praiseworthy men would have made 
greater advances towards the attainment of their object. 

If in offering these remarks it should be thought I have been se- 
vere upon the failings of the people, or upon the conduct of the 
missionary gentlemen, I have only to say, that I have felt myself 
called upon to declare the truth, which I trust has been done with- 
out any invidious feeling to either ; indeed, I experienced nothing 
during my stay that could create such a feeling, but very much to the 
contrary, as both my officers and myself received every possible 
kindness from them. And if I have pourtrayed their errors more 
minutely than their virtues, it has been done with a view to show, 
that although the condition of the people is much improved, they 
are not yet blessed with that state of innocence and domestic com- 
fort of which we have read. It would have been far more agreea- 
ble to have dwelt on the fair side of their character only, but that 
has already been done, and by following the same course I should 
I only have increased the general misconception. 

At the time of our arrival, the rainy season, which had been 
somewhat protracted, was scarcely over. Its proper period is De- 
cember, January, and February. So much wet weather in the 



1826.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 197 

height of summer is always the occasion of fevers, and together with 
the abundance of vee-apples (spondias dulcus), which ripen about 
that period, produce dysentary and sickness among the poorer class 
of inhabitants, several of whom were labouring under these and oth- 
er complaints during our stay. Miserable indeed was the condition 
of many of them. They retired from their usual abode and 
the society of their friends, and erected huts for themselves in the 
woods, in which they dwelt, until death terminated their sufferings. 
The missionaries and resident Europeans strove as much as was in 
their power to alleviate these distresses ; but the natives were so 
improvident and careless that the medicine often did them harm 
rather than good, and many preferred their own simple pharmaco- 
poeia, and thus fell victims to their ignorance. Our own ship's 
company improved upon the abundance of fish and vegetable diet ; 
but from what afterwards occurred, I am disposed to think the 
change from their former food to so much vegetable substance was ve- 
ry injurious. Regard to this subject ought not to be overlooked in 
vessels circumstanced as the Blossom was. 

The winds during our stay were principally from the eastward, 
freshening in the forenoon, and moderating toward sun-set to a calm, 
or giving place to a light breeze off the land, which sometimes pre- 
vailed through the night. This effect upon the trade-wind, by 
comparatively so small a tract of coast, shows the powerful influence 
of the land upon the atmosphere. 

In the height of summer, or during the rainy season, the winds fly 
round to the W. and N. W. and blow in gales or hard squalls, which 
it is necessary to guard against in anchoring upon the north-west- 
ern coast, particularly at Matavai Bay, which is quite open to those 
quarters. The mean temperature of the atmosphere during our 
stay was 79° 98, the minimum 75°, and maximum 87°. 

The many excellent ports in Otaheite have been enumerated by 
Captain Cook, though he only made use of one, Matavai Bay, and 
that which was most exposed ; in consequence, probably, of the 
facility of putting to sea. Those on the north-western coast are the 
most frequented, as some difficulty of getting out and in attends 
most of the others, particularly those in the south-western side of 
the island, which are subject to a constant heavy swell from the 
higher latitudes, and in the long calms that prevail under the lee of 
the island, are apt to endanger vessels approaching the reefs. Of 
the four on the north-western coast, viz. Matavai, Papawa, Toanoa, 
and Papiete, the last is the common anchorage, and were it not that 
it is subject to long calms and very hot weather, in consequence of 
being more to leeward than others, it would certainly be the best. 
Toanoa is very small, but conveniently adapted to the refit of one 
or two ships. The best port however lies between this anchorage 



]98 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April, 

and Matavai, and is called Papawa; several ships may anchor there 
in perfect safety quite close to the shore, and if a wharf were con- 
structed, might land their cargoes upon it without the assistance of 
boats. It may be entered either from the east or west, and it has 
the additional advantage of having Matavai Bay for a stopping 
place, should circumstances render it inconvenient to enter at the 
moment ; but this channel which communicates with Matavai Bay 
must be approached with attention to two coral knolls that have es- 
caped the notice of both Cook and Bligh. I have given directions 
for avoiding them in my nauctical remarks. 

The tides in all harbours formed by coral reefs are very irregular 
and uncertain, and are almost wholly dependant upon the sea- 
breeze. At Toanoa it is usually low water about six every morn- 
ing, and high water half an hour after noon. To make this devia- 
tion from the ordinary course of nature intelligible, it will be better 
to consider the harbour as a basin, over the margin of which, after 
the breeze springs up, the sea beats with considerable violence, and 
throws a larger supply into it than the narrow channels can carry off 
in the same time, and consequently during that period the tide rises. 
As the wind abates the water subsides, and the nights being gene- 
rally calm, and the water finds its lowest level by the morning. 



1826.1 and beering's strait. 199 



CHAPTER X. 



Departure from Otaheite — Arrival at Woahoo, Sandwich Islands — Contrast between 
the two Countries — Visit the King- and Pitt — Departure — Onoehow — Passage to 
Kamschatka — Petropaulski — Beering's Island — St. Lawrence Island — Esquimaux 
— King's Island — Diomede — Pass Beering's Strait — Arrive in Kotzebue Sound — 
Anchor off Chamisso Island — Ice Formation in Escholtz Bay. 

On the 26th of April, we left this delightful island in which we 
had passed many very pleasant days, in the enjoyment of the socie- 
ty of the residents, and of the scenery of the country. We put to 
sea in the morning, and about noon reached the low island of Te- 
thoroa, the watering place of the Otaheitans. It is a small coral 
island, distant about seven leagues from Otaheite : from the hills of 
which it may be distinctly seen, and is abundantly provided with 
cocoa-nut trees. The salubrity of this little island, which was for- 
merly the resort of the chiefs, arreoys, and others, for the purpose 
if recruiting their health after their debaucheries, is still proverbial 
at Otaheite. Spare diet and fresh air were the necessary conse- 
quences of a visit to this place, and for a good constitution were the 
only restoratives required; and, as these seldom failed in their ef- 
fects, it obtained a reputation in Otaheite, no less famous than that of 
the celebrated spring of eternal youth, which Ponce de Leon so 
long sought in vain. From the proximity of the islands of Tethoroa 
Otaheite, and Eimeo, we were enabled to connect them trigonome- 
trically. Upon the latter there is a peak with a hole through it to 
which a curious history is attached, connected with the superstition 
of early times. It is asserted that the great god, Oroo, being one 
day angry with the Tii, or the little God of Eimeo, he threw his 
spear across the water at him, but the activity of the Tii evaded the 
blow, and the spear passed through the mountain, and left the hole 
which we saw. The height of this peak is 4041 feet. 

On the 27th, we were within six miles of the situation in which 
Arrowsmith has placed Roggewein's high Island of Recreation ; 
but nothing was in sight from the mast-head. In all probability this 
island, which answers so well in its description, excepting as to its 
size, is the Maitea of Mr. Turnbull, situated nearly in the same lati- 



200 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April, 

tude. From this time we endeavoured to get to the eastward, and 
to cross the equator in about 150° W. longitude, so that when we 
met the N. E. trade-wind, we might be well to windward. There is 
otherwise, some difficulty in rounding Owyhee, which should be 
done about forty miles to the eastward to ensure the breeze. 

The passage between the Society and Sandwich groupes diners 
from navigation between the same parallels in the Atlantic, in the 
former being exempt from long calms which sometimes prevail about 
the equator, and in the S. E. trade being more easterly. The wes- 
terly current is much the same in both ; and if not attended to in 
the Pacific, will carry a ship so far to leeward, that by the time she 
reaches the parallel of the Sandwich Islands, she will be a long 
way to the westward, and have much difficulty in beating up to 
them. 

Soon after leaving Otahieite, the officers and ship's company 
generally were afflicted with dysentery, which, at one time, assumed 
an alarming appearance. On the 3d of May, we had the misfortune 
to lose Mr. Crawley, one of the midshipmen, a young gentleman of 
very good abilities, and much regretted by all who knew him ; and 
on the 6th, William Must, my steward, sunk under the same com- 
plaint. On the 7th, great apprehensions were entertained for Mr. 
Lay, the naturalist; but fortunately, his complaint took a favourable 
turn and he ultimately recovered. The disease, however, continued 
among us some time, threatening occasionally different portions of 
the ship's company. 

As we approached the Sandwich Islands, our view was anxiously 
directed to the quarter in which Owyhee* was situated, in the hope 
of obtaining a sight of the celebrated Mouna Roa ; but the weather 
was so unfavourable for this purpose, that the land at the foot of 
the hills was the only part of the coast which presented itself to our 
view. On the 18th, we passed about thirty miles to windward of 
the eastern points of the island ; and in the afternoon of the follow- 
ing day, as it was too late to fetch the anchorage off Woahoo, we 
rounded to under the lee of Morotoi, the next island. The follow- 
ing morning we came to an anchor in nineteen fathoms outside the 
reefs of Honoruro, the principal port of the Sandwich Islands, and 
the residence of the king. This anchorage is very much exposed, 
and during the N. W. monsoon, unsafe ; but as there is great diffi- 
culty attending a large ship going in and out of the harbour, it is the 
general stopping place of such vessels as make but a short stay at 
the island. 

Our passage from Otaheite to this place had been so rapid, that 
the contrast between the two countries was particularly striking. 

* More recently written Hawaii. 



1826.] AND BEERINO'S STRAIT. 201 

Ar Woahoo, the eye searches in vain for the green and shady for- 
ests skirting the shore, which enliven the scene at Otaheite. The 
whole country has a parched and comparatively barren aspect ; and 
it is not until the heights are gained, and the extensive ranges of 
taro plantations are seen filling every valley, that strangers learn 
why this island was distinguised by the name of the garden of the 
Sandwich Islands. 

The difference betwixt the appearance of the natives of Woahoo and 
Otaheite is not less conspicuous than that of the scenery. Constant 
exposure to the sun has given them a dark complexion and a coarse- 
ness of feature which do not exist in the Society Islands ; and their 
countenances, moreover, have a wildness of expression which at first 
misleads the eye ; but this very soon wears off, and I am not sure 
whether this manliness of character does not create a respect which 
the effeminacy of the Otahetians never inspires. 

As we rowed up the harbour, the forts, the cannon, and the en- 
sign of the Tamahamaha, displayed upon the ramparts of a fort 
mounting forty guns, and at the gaff of a man-of-war brig, and of 
some other vessels, rendered the distinction between the two coun- 
tries still more evident ; and on landing, the marked attention to 
etiquette, and the respect shown by the subjects to their chiefs, of- 
fered a similar contrast. In every way this country seemed far to 
surpass the other in civilization — but there were strong indications 
of a close connexion between the natives of both. 

It was not long since Lord Byron in the Blonde had quitted these 
islands ; the appearance of a man-of-war was, therefore, no novel- 
ty ; but the beach was thronged to excess with people of all dis- 
tinctions, who behaved in a very orderly manner, helped us out of 
the boats, and made a passage as we advanced. In our way, noth- 
ing more strikingly marked the superiority of this country over that 
we had recently quitted than the number of wooden houses, the re- 
gularity of the town laid out in squares, intersected by streets prop- 
erly fenced in, and the many notices which appeared right and left, 
on pieces of board, on which we read " An Ordinary at one o'clock, 
Billiards, the Britannia, the Jolly Tar, the Good Woman," &c. 
After a short walk, we came to a neatly built wooden house, with 
glass windows, the residence ofKrimakoo, or, as he was commonly 
called, Pitt, whom I found extended upon the floor of his apartment, 
suffering under a dropsical complaint, under which he ultimately 
sunk. This disease had so increased upon him of late that he had 
undergone five operations for it since the departure of the Blonde. 
Though unable to rise from his bed, his mind was active and unim- 
paired ; and when the conversation turned upon the affairs of the 
island, he was quite energetic, regretting that his confinement pre- 
vented his looking more into them ; and his greatest annoyance 

26 



202 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May, 

seemed to" be his inability to see every thing executed himself. He 
expressed his attachment strongly to the British Government, and 
his gratitude for the respect that had been shown the descendant of 
his illustrious patron, and his queen, by sending their bodies to the 
Sandwich Islands in so handsome a manner, and also for the footing 
upon which the affairs of the state had been placed by Lord Byron 
in command of the Blonde. He was anxious to requite these fa- 
vours, and pressed his desire to be allowed to supply all the de- 
mands of the ship himself, in requital for the liberty with which his 
countrymen were treated in England. I could not accede to this 
effusion of the chiefs gratitude, as the expense attending it would 
have been considerably felt by him, and more particularly as Lord 
Byron had previously declined the same offer. 

The young king, who had been taking an airing, arrived at this 
moment, and repeated the sentiments of his protector, making, at 
the same time, many inquiries for his friends in the Blonde. Boki 
w T as absent at Owyhee, attending his sister, who was dangerously ill. 
Madam Boki, Kuanoa, Manuia, and the other chiefs who were of 
the party in England, were all anxious to show us civility, and spoke 
of England in such high terms, that they will apparently never for- 
get the kind treatment they experienced there: but they had a 
great dread of the diseases of our country, and many of them con- 
sidered it very unhealthy. My impression was, that those who had 
already been there had had their curiosity satisfied to feel in no way 
disposed to risk another visit. The want of their favourite dish Poe 
was, besides, so serious an inconvenience, that when allusion was 
made to England, this privation was always mentioned. 

Our reception was friendly in the extreme ; all our wants, as far 
as possible, were supplied, but unfortunately there was this year a 
scarcity of almost every kind of production ; the protracted rainy 
season and other circumstances having conspired to destroy or les- 
sen the crops, and the whole population was in consequence suffer- 
ing from its effects. There was also a scarcity of dried provision, 
our visit having proceeded the usual time of the arrival of the whal- 
ers, who discharge all they can spare at this place previous to their 
return home. Our expectation of replenishing the ship's provisions 
was consequently disappointed, and it therefore became necessary 
to reduce the daily allowance of the ship's company, and to pursue 
the same economical system here, with regard to taro and yams, as 
was done at Otaheite with the bread-fruit. 

The few days I had to remain here were devoted to astronomi- 
cal and other observations, and I had but little opportunity of judg- 
ing of the state of the island ; ; but from a letter which I received 
from Boki, it was evident that he did not approve of the system of 
religious restraint that had been forced into operation, which was 



1826.] and bejering's strait. 203 

alike obnoxious to the foreigners residing upon the island and to the 
natives. 

At the time of our departure the health of Mr. Lay was by no 
means restored, and as it appeared to me that his time during the 
absence of the ship could be more profitably employed among the 
islands of the Sandwich groupe than on the frozen shores of the 
north, he was left behind, under the protection of Pitt, whose kind- 
ness on the occasion nothing could exceed. Mr. Collie took upon 
himself the charge of the naturalist, and accquitted himself in a high- 
ly creditable manner. 

On the 31st of May we took our leave of Woahoo, and proceed- 
ed to Oneehow, the westernmost island of the Sandwich groupe, 
famous for its yams, fruit, and mats. This island is the property of 
the king, and it is necessary, previous to proceeding thither, to make 
a bargain with the authorities at Woahoo for what may be required, 
who in that case send an agent to see the agreement strictly fulfil- 
led. On the 1st of June we hauled into a small sandy bay on the 
western side of the island, the same in which Vacouver anchored 
when he was there on a visit of a similar nature to our own ; and I 
am sorry to say that like him we were disappointed in the expect- 
ed supplies ; not from their scarcity, but in consequence of the in- 
dolence of the natives. 

Oneehow is comparatively low, and, with the exception of the 
fruit trees, which are carefully cultivated, it is destitute of wood. 
The soil is too dry to produce taro, but on that account it is well 
adapted to the growth of yams, &c. which are very excellent and 
of an enormous size. There is but one place in this bay where the 
boat of a man of war can effect a landing with safety when the sea 
sets into the bay, which is a very common occurrence ; this is on 
its northern shore, behind a small reef of rocks that lies a little way 
off the beach, and even here it is necessary to guard against sunk- 
en rocks ; off the western point these breakers extend a mile and a 
half. The soundings in the bay are regular, upon a sandy bottom, 
and there is good anchorage, if required, with the wind from the 
eastward ; but it would not be advisable to bring up under any other 
circumstances. The natives are a darker race of people than those 
of Woahoo, and reminded us strongly of the inhabitants of Bow Isl- 
and. With the exception of the house of the Earee, all the huts 
were small, low, and hot ; the one which we occupied was so close 
that we were obliged to make a hole in its side to admit the sea 
breeze. 

We took on board as many yams as the natives could collect be- 
fore sun-set, and then shaped our course for Kamschatka. In doing 
this I deviated from the tracks of both Cook and Clerke, which I 
think was the occasion of our passage being shorter than either of 



204 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [JwW, 

theirs. Instead of running to the westward in a low latitude, we 
passed to the eastward of Bird Island, and gained the latitude of 
27° N. In this parallel we found the trade much fresher, though 
more variable, and more subject to interruption, than within the 
tropic ; we had also the advantage of a more temperate climate, of 
which we stood in need, as the sickness among the ship's company- 
was so far from being removed, that on the 13th we had the mis- 
fortune to lose one of the marines. On this day we spoke the Tus- 
can, an English whaleship, and found that on quitting the Sandwich 
Islands her crew had suffered in the same w T ay as our own, but had 
since quite recovered. In all probability the sudden change of diet 
from the usual seafare to so much vegetable food, added to the heat 
and humidity of the atmosphere at . the season in which our visits 
were made to those islands, was the cause of the sickness of both 
vessels. The master of the Tuscan informed me that the preced- 
ing year his ship's company had been so severely afflicted with 
disease that he found it necessary to put into Loo Choo, where he 
was well received, and his people were treated with the greatest 
kindness. He was supplied with fresh meat and vegetables daily, 
without being allowed to make any other payment than that of a chart 
of the world, which was the only thing the natives would accept. 
It was, however, not without the usual observance of narrow-minded 
Chinese policy, that himself and his invalid crew were allowed to 
set their feet on shore, and even then they were always attended by 
a party of the natives, and had a piece of ground bordering on the 
beach fenced off for them. The salute which the Alceste and Lyra 
had fired on the 25th of October, was well remembered by these 
people, and they had an idea that it was an annual ceremony per- 
formed in commemoration of something connected with the king of 
England. On the return of this day, during the Tuscan's visit, they 
concluded that the ship would observe the same ceremony, and 
looked forward with such anxiety and delight to the event, that the 
master of the whaler was obliged to rub up his four patereros, and 
go through the salute without any intermission, as the Loochooans 
counted the guns as they were fired. 

A few hours after we parted with the Tuscan, we fell in with two 
other whale ships, neither of which could spare us any provisions. 
These ships were no doubt fishing down a parallel of latitude, which 
is a common custom, unless they find a continued scarcity of whales. 
The 30th degree, I believe, is rather a favourite one with them. 

Ten days after our departure from Oneehow we lost the trade 
wind in latitude 30° N. and longitude 195° W. : it had been varia- 
ble before this, but had not fairly deserted us. Its failure was of lit- 
tle consequence, as in three days afterwards we were far enough to 
the westward to ensure the remainder of the passage ; and indeed 



1826.] and beering's strait. 205 

from the winds which ensued, a course might as well have been sha- 
ped for Kamschatka on the day we lost the wind. 

On the 3d of June, the day after leaving Oneehow, in latitude 
25° N. and longitude 160° 15' W., we saw large flocks of tern and 
noddies, and a few gannets and tropic birds, also boneta, and shoals 
of flying-fish ; and on the 5th, in latitude 28° 10' N. and longitude 
172° 20' W., we had similar indications of the proximity of land. 
Though such appearances are by no means infallible, yet as so many 
coral islands have recently been discovered to the W. N. W. of the 
Sandwich Islands, ships in passing these places should not be regard- 
less of them. On this day we observed an albatross (diomedia ex- 
ulans), the first we had seen since quitting the coast of Chili. It is 
remarkable that Captain King, in his passage to Kamschatka, first 
met these birds within thirty miles of the same spot. We noticed 
about this time a change in the colour of the wings of the flying- 
fish, and on one of the species being caught it was found to differ 
from the common exoccetus volitans. We continued to see these 
fish occasionally as far as 30° N., about which time the tern also 
quitted us. In 33° N. we first met the birds of the northen regions, 
the procellaria puffinus, but it was not until we were within a hun- 
dred miles of the coast of Kamschatka that we saw the lumme, do- 
vekie, rotge, and other alca, and the shag. The tropic birds ac- 
companied us as far as 36° N. 

On the 18th and 19th, in latitude 35° N., longitude 194° 30' W., 
we made some experiments on the temperature of the sea at inter- 
mediate depths, as low as 760 fathoms, where it was found, to be 
twenty-eight degrees colder than at the surface ; two days afterwards 
another series was obtained, by which it appeared that the temper- 
ature at 180 fathoms was as cold as that at 500 fathoms on the for- 
mer occasion, and it was twenty degrees colder at 380 fathoms on 
this, than it was at 760 fathoms on the other. Between these ex- 
periments we entered a thick fog, which continued until we were 
close off the Kamschatka coast; and we also experienced a change 
of current, both of which, no doubt contributed towards the change 
of temperature of the sea, which was much greater than could have 
been produced by the alteration in the situation of the ship : the fog 
by obstructing the radiation of heat, and the current by bringing a 
colder medium from higher latitudes. About this period we began 
to see drift wood, some of which passed us almost daily. The sea 
was occasionally strewed with moluscous animals, principally beroes 
and nereis, among which on the 19th were a great many small crabs of 
a curious species. Whether it was that these animals preferred the 
foggy weather, or that we more narrowly scrutinized the small space 
of water around us to which our view was limited, I cannot say, but 
it appeared to us that they were much more numerous while the 
fog lasted than before or afterwards, 



206 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jtttte, 

In the afternoon of the 23d, in latitude 44° N., the wind, which 
had been at S. W., drew round to the west, and brought a cold at- 
mosphere, in which the thermometer fell fourteen degrees ; it is 
remarkable that sixteen hours before this change occurred, the tem- 
perature of the sea fell six degrees, while that of the atmosphere 
was affected only four hours previous. In my remarks on our pas- 
sage round Cape Horn, I have mentioned the frequency with which 
the temperature of the surface of the sea was affected before that 
of the atmosphere when material changes of wind were about to 
occur. 

On the 26th, in latitude 49° N., after having traversed nearly 
seven hundred miles in so thick a fog that we could scarcely see 
fifty yards from us, a north-east wind cleared the horizon for a few 
hours : this change again produced a sensible diminution of the tem- 
perature, which was thirty-one degrees lower than it had been thir- 
teen days previous. The next day we had the satisfaction of see- 
ing the high mountains of Kamschatka, which at a distance are the 
best guides to the port of Awatska. The eastern mountain, situated 
twenty-five miles from Petropaulski, is 7.375 feet high by my trig- 
onometrical measurment ; another, which is the highest, situated N. 
5° E. from the same place, and a little to the northward of a short 
range upon which there is a volcano in constant action, is 11.500 
feet high. At eight o'clock we distinguished Cape Gavarea, the 
southern point of a deep bay in which the harbour of Petropaulski 
is situated, and the same evening we were becalmed within six miles 
of our port. Nothing could surpass the serenity of the evening or 
the magnificence of the mountains capped with perennial snows, ris- 
ing in majestic array above each other. The volcano emitted smoke 
at intervals, and from a sprinkling of black dots on the snow to lee- 
ward of the crater, we concluded there had been a recent eruption. 

At two o'clock the following afternoon we anchored off the town 
of Petropaulski, and found lying in the inner harbour his imperial 
majesty's ship Modeste, commanded by Baron Wrangel, an enter- 
prising officer, well known to the world as the commander of a haz- 
ardous expedition on sledges over the ice to the northward of 
Schelatskoi Noss. 

I found despatches awaiting my arrival, communicating the return 
of the expedition under Captain Parry, and desiring me to cancel 
that part of my instructions which related to him. The officers, on 
landing at the little town of Petropaulski, met with a very polite re- 
ception from the governor, Stanitski, a captain in the Russian navy, 
who, during our short stay in port, laid us under many obligations 
for articles of the most acceptable kind to seamen after a long voy- 
age. I regretted extremely that confinement to my cabin at this 
time prevented my having the pleasure of making either his acquaint- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 207 

ance or that of the pastor of Paratounka, of whose ancestor such 
honourable mention has been made in the voyages of Captain Cook, 
a pleasure which was reserved for the following year. The worthy 
pastor, in strict compliance with the injunctions of his grandfather, 
that he should send a calf to the captain of every English man of 
war that might arrive in the port, presented me with one of his own 
rearing, and sent daily supplies of milk, butter, and curd. Had our 
stay in this excellent harbour permitted, we should have received a 
supply of oxen, which would have been most acceptable to the ship's 
company ; but the animals had to be driven from Bolcheresk, and, 
pressed as we were for time, too great a delay would have been in- 
curred in waiting for them. The colony at this time was as much 
distressed for provisions as ourselves, and was even worse off, in con- 
sequence of the inferior quality of the articles. 

On the 1st of July we weighed and attempted to put to sea, but 
after experiencing the difficulties of which several navigators have 
complained, were obliged to anchor again, and that at too great a 
distance from the town to have any communication. 

On the 2nd, as well as on the 3rd, we also weighed, but were 
obliged to anchor as before ; and it was not until the 5th, after weigh- 
ing and anchoring twice that morning, to prevent going ashore, 
that the ship reached the outside of the harbour; this difficulty aris- 
es from counter currents, which prevent the steerage of the ship. 
After clearing the harbour there was a strong wind against us, but 
it soon died entirely away, and left us exposed to a heavy swell, 
which rolled with great violence upon the shore;.somuchso, that for' 
some time the boats were insufficient to prevent the ship nearing 
the land, and there was no anchorage, in consequence of the great 
depth of water : fortunately, towards night a light air favoured our 
departure, and we succeeded in getting an offing. 

My object was now to make the best of my way to Kotzebue 
Sound, as there were but fourteen days left before the arrival of the 
appointed time of rendezvous there, and every effort was directed 
towards that end. As we sailed across the wide bay in which Pet- 
ropaulski is situated, we connected the capes at its extremities with 
the port and intermediate objects, by which it appears that Cape 
Gavarea has hitherto been erroneously placed with regard to Chep- 
oonski Noss; but I shall not here interrupt the narrative by the in- 
sertion of the particulars of the operations. 

At day-light the following morning, Chepoonski Noss was seen 
N. 19° W., and in the afternoon of the next day high land was dis- 
cerned from the mast-head . in the direction of Krotnoi Mountain. 
This was the last view we had of Kamschatka, as a thick fog came 
on, and attended us to Beering's Island. 

At day-light on the 10th a high rock was seen about nine miles 



208 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [J^hj, 

off, and shortly afterwards Beering's Island appeared through the fog. 
When we had reached close in with the land the mist partially dis- 
persed, and exposed to our view a moderately high island, armed 
with rocky points. The snow rested in ridges upon the hills, but 
the lower parts of the island were quite bare, and presented a 
green mossy appearance, without a single shrub to relieve its mono- 
tony. Its dreary aspect, associated with the recollection of the 
catastrophe that befel Beering and his shipmates, who were cast 
upon its shores on the approach of winter with their own resources 
exhausted, produced an involuntary shudder. The bay in which 
this catastrophe occurred is on the north side of the island, on 
a part of the coast which fortunately afforded fresh water, and 
abounded in stone foxes, sea otters, and moor-hens ; and where there 
was a quantity of drift wood washed upon the shore, which served 
for the construction of huts ; but notwithstanding these resources, 
the commander Vitus Beering, and twenty-nine of the crew, found 
their graves on this desolate spot. The island is now visited occa- 
sionally by the Russians for the skins of the sea otter and black 
fox. The highest part of the island which we saw was towards its 
N. W. extremity, from whence the shore slopes gradually to the 
coast, and is terminated by cliffs. At the foot of these are low rocky 
flats, which can only be seen when quite close to them, and outside 
again are breakers. Off the western point these reefs extend about 
two miles from the shore, and off the northern, about a mile and a 
quarter, so that on the whole it is a dangerous coast to approach in 
thick weather. The rock first seen was situated five miles and a 
half off shore, and was so crowded with seals basking upon it, that it 
was immediately named Seal Rock.* 

To the northward of this there were several small bays in the 
coast, which promised tolerably good anchorage, particularly one to- 
wards the eastern part of the indentation in the coast line, off which 
there was a small low island or projecting point of land. This, in all 
probability, is the harbour alluded to by Krenitzen, as there were 
near it " two small hillocks like boats with their keels upwards." 

We did not see the south-eastern part of this island, as it was ob- 
scured by fog, but sailed along the southern and western shores as 
circumstances permitted until seven in the evening, when we got 
out of the region of clear weather, which usually obtains in the vi- 
cinity or leeward of land in these seas, and entered a thick fog. 
With the summer characteristics of this latitude— fine weather and 
a thick fog — we advanced to the northward, attended by a great 

* Kotzebue observes in his narrative that " this rock has not been laid down in any 
chart :" I presume he alludes to those which are modern, as on a preference to the 
map of Captain Krenitzen's discoveries in 1768, it will be found occupying its prop- 
er place. 



1826.] and beering*s strait. 209 

many birds, nearly all of the same kind as those which inhabit the 
Greenland Sea, sheerwaters, lummes, puffins, parasitic gulls, stormy 
petrel, dusky albatross, a larus resembling the kittiwake, a small 
dove-coloured tern, and shags. In latitude 60° 47' N. we noticed 
a change in the colour of the water, and on sounding found fifty-four 
fathoms, soft blue clay. From that time until we took our final de- 
parture from this sea the bottom was always within reach of our 
common lines. The water shoaled so gradually that at midnight on 
the 16th, after having run a hundred and fifty miles, we had thirty- 
one fathoms. Here the ground changed from mud to sand, and ap- 
prized us of our approach to the Island of St. Lawrence, which on 
the following morning was so close to us that we could hear the surf 
upon the rocks. The fog was at the same time so thick that we 
could not see the shore ; and it was not until some time afterwards, 
when we had neared the land by means of a long ground swell, for 
it was quite calm, that we discerned the tops of the hills. 

It is a fortunate circumstance that the dangers in these seas are 
not numerous, otherwise the prevalence of fogs in the summer time 
would render the navigation extremely hazardous. About noon we 
were enabled to see some little distance around us ; and, as we ex- 
pected, the ship was close off the western extremity of St. Law- 
rence Island. In this situation the nearest hills, which were about 
five hundred feet above the sea, we observed to be surmounted by 
large fragments of rock having the appearance of ruins. These hills 
terminate to the southward and south-westward in bold rocky cliffs, 
off which are situated three small islands ; the hills have a gradual 
slope to the coast line to the northward and westward ; but at the 
north-western extremity of the island they end in a remarkable 
wedge-shaped promontory — particulars which may be found useful 
to navigators in foggy weather. The upper parts of the island were 
buried in snow ; but the lower, as at Beering's Island, were bare and 
overgrown with moss or grass. We stood close into a small bay at 
the S. W. angle of the island, where we perceived several tents, 
and where, from the many stakes driven into the ground, we con- 
cluded there was a fishing-station. The natives soon afterwards 
launched four baidars, # of which each contained eight persons, males 
and females. They paddled towards the ship with great quickness, 
until they were within speaking distance, when an old man who 
steered the foremost boat stood erect, and held up in succession nets, 
walrus teeth, skin shirts, harpoons, bows and arrows and small birds ; 
he then extended his arms, rubbed and patted his breast,f and came 

* This boat, called by the natives oomiac, is the same in every respect as the oomi- 
ac, or woman boat, of the Esquimaux. It is here used by the men instead of the 
women. 

t This is the ususal Esquamaux indication of friendship. 

27 



210 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Juty, 

fearlessly alongside. We instantly detected in these people the fea- 
tures of the Esquimaux, whom in appearance and manners also, and 
indeed in every particular, they so much resembled, that there can- 
not, I think, be the least doubt of their having the same origin. 
They were if any thing less dirty, and somewhat fairer, and their 
implements were better made. Their dress, though Esquimaux, 
differed a little from it in the skin shirts being ornamented with tas- 
sels, after the manner of the Oonalashka people, and in the boots 
fitting the leg, instead of being adapted to the reception of either oil 
or infants. 

The old men had a few gray hairs on their chins, but the young 
ones, though grown up, were beardless. Many had their heads 
shaved round the crown, after the fashion of the Tschutschi, the 
Otaheitans, or the Roman Catholic priesthood in Europe, and all 
had their hair cut short. Their manner of salutation was by rub- 
bing their noses against ours, and drawing the palms of their hands 
over our faces ; but we were not favoured as Kotzebue was, by their 
being previously spit upon. In the stern of one of the baidars there 
was a very entertaining old lady, who amused us by the manner in 
which she tried to impose upon our credulity. She was seated 
upon a bag of peltry, from which she now and then cautiously drew 
out a skin, and exhibited the best part of it, with a look implying 
that it was of great value ; she repeatedly hugged it, and endeav- 
oured to coax her new acquaintances into a good bargain, but her 
furs were scarcely worth purchasing. She was tattooed in curved 
lines along the sides of the cheek, the outer one extending from the 
lower jaw, over the temple and eyebrow. 

Our visiters on board were not less accomplished adepts at bar- 
tering than the old woman, and sold almost every thing they had. 
With the men, " tawac," as they called our tobacco, was their great 
object; and with the women, needles and scissors; but with both, 
blue beads were articles highly esteemed. We observed, that they 
put some of these to the test, by biting them to ascertain whether 
they were glass ; having, perhaps, been served with wax ones by 
some of their former visiters. 

Their implements were so similar to those of the Esquimaux as 
to need no description ; except that their bows partook of the 
Tschutschi form. They had a great many small birds of the alca 
crestatella, strung upon thongs of hide, which were highly accepta- 
ble to us, as they were very palatable in a pie. These birds are, 
I believe, peculiar to St. Lawrence Island, and in proceeding up 
the strait their presence is a tolerably certain indication of the vicin- 
ity of the island. They are very numerous, and must be easily 
taken by the natives, as they sold seven dozen for a single necklace 
of blue glass beads. 

About seven o'clock in the evening, the natives quitted us rather 



1826.] and beering's strait. 211 

abruptly, and hastened toward the shore, in consequence of an ap- 
proaching fog, which their experience enabled them to foresee sooner 
than us, who, having a compass to rely upon, were less anxious 
about the matter. We soon lost sight of every distant object, and 
directed our course along the land, trying the depth of water occa- 
sionally. The bottom was tolerably even ; but we decreased the 
soundings to nine fathoms, about four miles off the western point, 
and changed the ground from fine sand, to stones and shingle. 
When we had passed the wedged-shaped cliff at the north-western 
point of the island, the soundings again deepened, and changed to 
sand, as at first. 

At night the fog cleared away for a short time, and we saw the 
Asiatic coast about Tschukutskoi Noss ; but it soon returned, and 
with it a light air in the contrary direction to our course. The next 
day, as we could make no progress, the trawl was put overboard, in 
the hope of providing a fresh meal for the ship's company ; but after 
remaining down a considerable time, it came up with only a sculpen 
(cottus scorpius), a few specimens of molusca?, and Crustacea?, con- 
sisting principally of maias. In the evening, Lieutenant Peard was 
more successful in procuring specimens with the dredge, which sup- 
plied us with a great variety of invertebral animals, consisting of 
asterias holothurias, echini, amphitrites, ascidias, actinias, euryales, 
murex, chiton crinitus, nereides, maias, gammarus, and pagurus, the 
latter inhabiting chiefly old shells of the murex genus. This was 
in seventeen fathoms over a muddy bottom, several leagues from 
the island. 

About noon the fog dispersed, and we saw nearly the whole ex- 
tent of the St. Lawrence Island, from the N. W. cape we had roun- 
ded the preceding night to the point near which Cook reached close 
•in with, after his departure from Norton Sound. The middle of 
this island was so low, that to us it appeared to be divided, and I 
concluded, as both Cook and Clerke had done before, that it was 
so ; circumstances did not, however, admit of my making this ex-- 
animation, and the connexion of the two islands was left for the 
discovery of Captain Schismareff of the Russian navy. The hills 
situated upon the eastern part of the island, to which Cook gave 
the name of his companion Captain Clerke, are the highest part of 
St. Lawrence Island, and were at this time deeply buried in snow. 

The current off here, on one trial, ran N. E. five-eighths of a mile 
per hour, and on another, N. 60° E. seven-eigthths of a mile per 
hour; as observations on this interesting subject were repeatedly 
made. 

Favoured with a fair wind, on the 19th we saw King's Island ; 
which, though small, is high and rugged, and has low land at its 
base, with apparrently breakers off its south extreme. 



212 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Juty, 

We had now advanced sufficiently far to the northward to carry 
on our operations at midnight ; an advantage in the navigation of 
an unfrequented sea which often precludes the necesssity of lying to. 

We approached the strait which separates the two great con- 
tinents of Asia and America, on one of those beautiful still nights, 
well known to all who have visited the arctic regions, when the sky 
is without a cloud, and when the midnight sun, scarcely his own di- 
ameter below the horizon, tinges with a bright hue all the northern 
circle. Our ship, propelled by an increasing breeze, glided rapidly 
along a smooth sea, startling from her path flocks of lummes and 
dovekies, and other aquatic birds, whose flight could, from the still- 
ness of the scene, be traced by the ear to a considerable distance. 
Our rate of sailing, however, by no means kept pace with our anx- 
iety that the fog, which usually succeeds a fine day in high latitudes, 
should hold off until we had decided a geographical question of some 
importance, as connected with the memory of the immortal Cook. 
That excellent navigator, in his discoveries of these seas, placed 
three islands in the middle of the strait (the Diomede Islands). 
Kotzebue, however, in passing them, fancied he saw a fourth, and 
conjectured that it must have been either overlooked by Cook and 
Clerke, or that it had been since raised by an earthquake.* 

As we proceeded, the land on the south side of St. Lawrence 
Bay made its appearance first, and next the lofty mountains at the 
back of Cape Prince of Wales, then hill after hill rose alternately 
on either bow, curiously refracted, and assuming all the varied forms 
which that phenomenon of the atmosphere is known to occasion. 
At last, at the distance of fifty miles, the Diomede Islands, and the 
eastern Cape of Asia, rose above the horizon of our mast-head. 
But, as if to teach us the necessity of patience in the sea we were 
about to navigate, before we had determined the question, a thick 
fog enveloped every thing in obscurity. We continued to run on, 
assisted by a strong northerly current, until seven o'clock the next 
morning, when the western Diomede was seen through the fog close 
to us. 

In our passage from the St. Lawrence Island to this situation, 
the depth of the sea increased a little, until to the northward of 
King's Island, after which it began to decrease ; but in the vicini- 
ty of the Diomede Islands, where the strait became narrowed, it 
again deepened, and continued between twenty-five and twenty-sev- 
en fathoms. The bottom, until close to the Diomedes, was com- 
posed of fine sand, but near them it changed to course stones and 

* Some doubt, it appears, was created in the minds of the Russians themselves as 
to this supposed discovery, as we understood at Petropaulski, that a large wager 
depending upon it. 



1326.] and beehing's strait. 213 

gravel, as at St. Lawrence Island ; transitions which, by being at- 
tended to, may be of service to navigators in foggy weather. 

During the day we saw a great number of whales, seals, and birds ; 
but none, I believe, that are not mentioned in Pennant's Arctic 
Zoology. 

We noticed upon the island abreast of us, which we conjectured 
to be the westernmost Diomede, several tents and yourts, and also 
two or three baidars, hauled upon the beach. On the declivity of 
the hill were several frames, apparently for drying fish and skins, 
and depositing canoes and sledges upon. It was nearly calm when 
we were off this place, but the current, which still ran to the north- 
ward carried us fast along the land. I steered for the situation of 
the supposed additional island, until by our reckoning we ought to 
have been upon it, and then hauled over towards the American 
shore. In the evening the fog cleared away, and our curiosity was 
at last satisfied. The extremities of the two great continents were 
distinctly seen, and the islands in the strait clearly ascertained to be 
only three in number, and occupying nearly the same situations in 
which they were placed in the chart of Captain Cook. 

The south-eastern of the three islands is a high square rock ; the 
next, or middle one, is an island with perpendicular cliffs, and a flat 
surface ; and the third, or north-western, which is the largest, is 
three miles long, high to the southward, and terminates, in the op- 
posite direction, in low cliffs with small rocky points off them. 
East Cape, in almost every direction, is so like an island, that I have 
no doubt it was the occasion of the mistake which the Russian nav- 
igator has committed. 

For the sake of convenience, I named each of these islands. The 
eastern one I called Fairway Rock, as it is an excellent guide to 
the eastern channel, which is the widest and the best ; the centre 
one I named after the Russian Admiral Krusenstern ; and to the 
north-western island I transferred the name of Ratmanoff, which 
had been bestowed upon the supposed discovery of Kotzebue. . we 
remarked that the Asiatic shore was more buried in snow than the 
American. The mountains in the one were entirely covered; in 
the other, they were streaked, and partly exposed. The low land 
of both on the coast was nearly bare. 

Near the Asiatic coast we had a sandy bottom, but, in crossing 
over the strait, it changed to mud, until well over on the American 
side, where we passed a tongue of sand and stones in twelve fathoms 
which, in all probability, was the extremity of a shoal, on which the 
ship was nearly lost the succeeding year. After crossing it, the wa- 
ter deepened, and the bottom again changed to mud, and we had 
ten and a half fathoms within two and a half miles of the coast. 

We closed with the American shore, a few miles to the northward 



214 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jufy, 

of Cape Prince of Wales, and found the coast low, with a ridge of 
sand extending along it, on which we noticed several Esquimaux 
habitations. Steering along this shore to the northward, in ten and 
eight fathoms water, a little before noon we were within four and a 
half miles of Schismareff Inlet. Here we were becalmed, and had 
leisure to observe the broadsheet of water that extends inland in an 
E. S. E. direction beyond the reach of the eye.* The width of the 
inlet between the two capes is ten miles ; but Saritcheff Island lies 
immediately before the opening, and we are informed by Kotzebue, 
that the channel, which is on the northern side of it, is extremely 
intricate and narrow, and that the space is strewed with shoals. 
The island is now low and sandy, and is apparently joined under 
water, to the southward, to the strip of sand before mentioned as 
extending along the coast : we noticed upon it a considerable village 
of yourts, the largest of any that had as yet been seen. The natives 
appear to prefer having their dwellings upon this sandy foundation 
to the main land, probably on account of the latter being swampy, 
which is the case every where in the vicinity of this inlet and Kotz- 
ebue Sound. Several of them, taking advantage of the calm, came 
off in baidars, similar to those used by the St. Lawrence islanders, 
though of inferior workmanship. The people, however, differed 
from them in many respects ; their complexion was darker, their 
features were more harsh and angular ; they were deficient in the 
tattooing of the face; and what constituted a wider distinction be- 
tween them was a custom, which we afterwards found general on the 
American coast, of wearing ornaments in their under lips. Our 
visitors were noisy and energetic, but good-natured ; laughed much, 
and humorously apprized us when we were making a good barg- 
ain. 

They willingly sold every thing they had, except their bows and 
arrows, which they implied were required for the chase on shore ; 
but they could not resist " tawac" (tobacco) and iron knives, and 
ultimately parted with them. These instuments differed from those 
of the islanders to the southward, in being more slender, but they 
were made upon the same principle, with drift pine, assisted with 
thongs of hide, and occasionally with pieces of whalbone placed at. 
the back of them neatly bound round with small cord. Their ar- 
rows were tipped with bone, flint, or iron, and they had spears or lan- 
ces headed with the same materials. Their dress was the same as 
that worn by the whole tribe inhabiting the coast. It consisted 
of a shirt which reached half way down the thigh, with long sleeves 
and a hood to it, made generally of the skin of the reindeer and 

• Mountains were seen at the back of it, but the coast was not visible — probably it 
is low. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 215 

edged with the fur of the gray or white fox, and sometimes with 
dog's skin. The hood is usually edged with a longer fur than the 
other parts, either of the wolf or dog. They have besides this a 
jacket made of eider drakes' skins sewed together, which, put on 
underneath their other dress, is a tolerable protection against a dis- 
tant arrow, and is worn in times of hostility. In wet weather they 
throw a shirt over their fur dress made of the entrails of the whale, 
which, while in their possession, is quite water tight, as it is then, 
in common with the rest of their property, tolerably well supplied 
with oil and grease ; but after they had been purchased by us and 
became dry, they broke into holes and let the water through. They 
are on the whole as good as the best oil-skins in England. Besides 
the shirt, they have breeches and boots, the former made of deer's 
hide, the latter of seal's skin, both of which have drawing strings at 
the upper part, made of sea-horse hide. To the end of that which 
goes round the waist they attach a tuft of hair, the wing of a bird, 
or sometimes a fox's tail, which, dangling behind as they walk, gives 
them a ridiculous appearance, and may probably have occasioned 
the the report of the Tschutschi, recorded in Muller, that the peo- 
ple of this country have " tails like dogs." 

It was at Schismareff Inlet that we first saw the lip ornaments 
which are common to all the inhabitants of the coast thence as far 
as Point Barrow. These ornaments consist of pieces of ivory, 
stone, or glass, formed with a double head, like a sleeve-button, one 
part of which is thrust through a hole bored in the under lip. Two 
of these holes are cut in a slanting direction about half an inch be- 
low the corners of the mouth. The incision is made when about 
the age of puberty, and is at first the size of a quill ; as they grow 
older the natives enlarge the orifice, and increase the dimensions of 
the ornament accordingly, that it may hold its place : in adults, this 
orifice is about half an inch in diameter, and will, if required, dis- 
tend to three quarters of an inch. Some of these ornaments were 
made of granite, others of jade-stone, and a few of laige blue glass 
beads let into a piece of ivory which formed a white ring round 
them. These are about an inch in diameter, but I afterwards got 
one of a finely polished jade that was three inches in length, by an 
inch and a half in width. 

About noon, a breeze springing up, the natives quitted us for the 
shore, and we pursued our course to the northward without waiting 
to explore further this deep inlet, which has since been a subject of 
regret, as the weather afterwards in both years prevented its being 
done, I could not, however, consistently with my instructions, wait 
to examine it at this moment, as the appointed time of rendezvous 
at Chamisso Island was already past.* While becalmed off it, we 

* It has since been surveyed by the Russians. 



216 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [July, 

were carried slowly to the north-eastward by a current which had 
been running in that direction from the time of our quitting St. Law- 
rence Island. With a fair wind we sailed along the coast to the 
northward, which was low and swampy, with small lakes inland. 
The ridge of sand continued along the coast to Cape Espenburg, 
and there terminated. 

We entered Kotzebue Sound early in the morning of the 22d of 
July, and plied against a contrary wind, guided by the soundings ; 
the appearance of the land was so distorted by mirage, and in parts 
so obscured by low fog, that it was impossible to distinguish where 
we were. The naturalist who accompanied Kotzebue in his voyage 
particularly remarks this state of the atmosphere in the vicinity of 
the sound, and suggests that it may be occasioned by the swampy 
nature of the country ; in which opinion I fully concur. When it 
cleared offwe were much surprised to find ourselves opposite a deep 
inlet in the northern shore, which had escaped the observation of 
Captain Kotzebue. I named it Hotham Inlet, in compliment to the 
Hon. Sir Henry Hotham, K.C.B., one of the lords of the Admi- 
ralty. We stood in to explore it, but found the water too shallow, 
and were obliged to anchor in four fathoms to pervent being carried 
away by a strong tide which was setting out of the sound, the wind 
being light and contrary. 

As it would be necessary to remain three or four days at Cham- 
isso Island to increase our stock of water, previous to proceeding to 
the northward, the barge was hoisted out and sent to examine the 
inlet, With directions to meet the ship at Chamisso Island. She 
was again placed under the command of Mr. Elson, and equipped 
in every way necessary for the service required. 

We were visited by several baidars, containing from ten to thir- 
teen men each, whose object was to obtain articles in exchange. 
They were in every respect similar to the natives of SchismarefF 
Inlet, though rather better looking, and -were all, without exception, 
provided with labrets, either made of ivory and blue beads, as be- 
fore described, of ivory alone, or of different kinds of stone, as stea- 
tite, porphyry, or greenstone ; they readily disengaged these from 
their lips, and sold them, without minding the inconvenience of the 
saliva that flowed through the badly cicatriced orifice over the chin ; 
but on the contrary derided us when we betrayed disgust at the 
spectacle, by thrusting their tongues through the hole, and winking 
their eyes. One or two had small strings of beads suspended to 
their ears. 

The articles they brought off were, as before, skins, fish, fishing 
implements, and nic-nacs. Their peltry consisted of the skins of 
the seal, of the common and arctic fox, the common and musk-rat, the 
marten, beaver, three varieties of ermine, one white, one with a 



1826,] AftD BEERJNG^S STRAlf. 2H 

light brown back and yellow belly, and the third with a gray back 
spotted white and yellow; the American otter, the white hare, 
the polar bear, the wolf, the deer, and the badger. Their fish were 
salmon and herrings : their implements, lances, either of stone or of 
a walrus tooth fixed to the end of a wooden staff* ; harpoons precisely 
similar to the Esquimaux ; arrows ; drills ; and an instrument, the 
use of which was at first not very evident. It was part of a walrus 
tooth shaped something like a shoehorn, with four holes at the small 
end, communicating with a trough that extended along the middle 
of the instrument and widened as it neared the broad part. From 
the explanation given of it by the natives, it was evidently used to 
procure blood from dying animals, by inserting the end with the 
holes into the wound, and placing the mouth at the opposite end of 
the trough to receive the liquid as it flowed, From the satisfaction 
that was evinced by the describer during the explanation, it is evi- 
dent that the blood of animals is as much esteemed by these people 
as by the eastern Esquimaux.* On the outside of this and other 
instruments there were etched a variety of figures of men, beasts, 
and birds, &c, with a truth and character which showed the art to 
be common among them. The reindeer were generally in herds : 
in one picture they were pursued by a man in a stooping posture in 
snow-shoes ; in another he had approached nearer to his game, and 
was in the act of drawing his bow. A third represented the man- 
ner of taking seals with an inflated skin of the same animal as a de- 
-coy ; it was placed upon the ice, and not far from it a man was ly- 
ing upon his belly with a harpoon ready to strike the animal when 
it should make its appearance. Another was dragging a seal home 
upon a small sledge ; and several baidars were employed harpoon- 
ing whales which had been previously shot with arrows ; and thus, 
by comparing one device with another, a little history was obtained 
which gave us a better insight into their habits than could be elici- 
ted from any signs or intimations. 

The natives also offered to us for sale various other articles of 
traffic, such as small wooden bowls and cases, and little ivory figures, 
some of which were not more than three inches in length, dressed 
in clothes which were made with seams and edgings precisely simi- 
lar to those in use among the Esquimaux. 

The staves of the harpoons and spears were made of pine or cy- 
press, in all probability from drift wood, which is very abundant 
upon the shores ; and yet the circumstance of their having lumps 
of the resin in small bags, favoured the supposition that they had 
access to the living trees. They had also iron pyrites, plumbago, 
and red ochre, with which the frame of the baidar was coloured. 

* See Captain Parry's Second Voyage, 4to., p. 510. 

28 



21$ VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [July 

The people themselves, in their persons as well as in their man- 
ners and implements, possessed all the characteristic features of the 
Esquimaux ; large fat round faces, high cheek bones, small hazel 
eyes, eyebrows slanting like the Chinese, and wide mouths. They 
had the same fashion with their hair as the natives of Schismareff 
Inlet, cutting it close round the crown of the head, and thereby 
leaving a bushy ring round the lower part of it. Ophthalmia was 
very general with them, and obliged some to wear either some kind 
of shade or spectacles, made of wood, with a wide slit for each eye 
to look through. At Schismareff Inlet diseases of this nature w x ere, 
also, prevalent among those who visited us. 

The salutation of our visiters was, as before,, by a contact of 
noses, and by smoothing our faces with the palms of their hands, 
but without any disgusting practice. 

When they had parted with all they' had for sale, they quitted 
the ship, well pleased with their excursion, and having pushed off 
to a little distance, clapped their hands, extended their arms, and 
stroked their bodies repeatedly ; which we afterwards found to be 
the usual demonstration of friendship among all their tribe. They 
then pointed to the shore, and with one consent struck the water 
with their paddles, and propelled their baidars with a velocity which 
we were not prepared to witness. y?hese boats are similar in con- 
struction to the oomiaks of Hudson's Bay ; but the model differs 
in being sharp at both ends. They consist of a frame made of drift 
wood, covered with the skins of walruses which are strained over it, 
and are capable of being tightened at any time by a lacing on the 
inside of the gunwale ; the frame and benches for the rowers are 
fastened with thongs, by which the boat is rendered both light and 
pliable ; the skin, when soaked with water, is translucent ; and a 
stranger placing his foot upon the fiat yielding surface at the bottom 
of the boat fancies it a frail security ; but it is very safe and dura- 
ble, especially when kept well greased. 

In Hudson's Strait the oomiak is principally used by the women 
and children : here it is the common conveyance of the men, who, 
without them, would not be able to collect their store of provisions 
for the winter. They are always steered by the elderly men, who 
have also the privilege of sitting in the stern of the boat when un- 
employed. The starboard paddles of those which we- saw were 
stained with black stripes, and the larboard with red, as were also 
the frames of some of the baidars. 

We formed a favourable opinion of our visiters from the strict 
integrity which they evinced in all their dealings, even when op- 
portunities offered of evading detection, which I notice the more 
readily, as we afterwards experienced very different behaviour from 
the same tribe. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 219 

Light winds kept us at anchor for twenty-four hours, during which 
time the current ran almost constantly to the south-westward, at the 
rate of from two fathoms to two miles per hour ; and the water was 
nearly fresh (1.0089 to 1.0096 sp. gr.): this stratum, however, was 
confined to a short distance from the surface, as a patent log, which 
was sunk for three hours at the depth of three fathoms, showed only 
a fifth of a mile in that time. These facts left no doubt of our be- 
ing near the estuary of a considerable river, flowing, in all probabil- 
ity, through the large opening abreast of us, which the boat had 
been sent to explore. 

We weighed in the afternoon of the' 23d, but in consequence of 
light winds and counter currents made very little progress ; indeed, 
a great part of the time the ship would not steer, even with a mod- 
erate breeze and two boats a-head, and it was necessary to keep 
carrying out the kedge anchors on the bow to maintain the ship's 
head in the right direction. This was occasioned by some large riv- 
ers emptying themselves into the sound, the fresh water of which 
remained at the surface, and flowed in a contrary direction to the 
tide of the ocean, Had this occured in an intricate channel it might 
have been dangerous ; but in Kotzebue Sound the bottom is quite 
even, and there is plenty of room to drift about. 

At four o'clock in the morning of the 25th we reached our ap- 
pointed rendezvous at Chamisso Island, ten days later than had been 
agreed upon by Captain Franklin and myself, but which, it appear- 
ed, was quite early enough, as there were no traces of his having 
arrived. On approaching the island we discovered, through our tel- 
escopes, a small pile of stones upon its summit; and as every object 
of this kind which was likely to be the work of human hands was 
interesting, from the possibility that it might be the labour of the 
party we were in search of, it was not long in undergoing an examina- 
tion ; there was nothing however to lead to its history, but conjec- 
ture attributed it to Captain Kotzebue, who visited that spot in 1816. 

The ship was anchored nearly as far up in Kotzebue Sound as a 
vessel of her class can go, between Chamisso Island on the south, 
and Choris peninsula on the north, with Escholtz Bay on the east, 
and an open space on the west, in which the coast was too distant 
to be seen. The land about this part of the Sound is generally 
characterised by rounded hills from about six hundred feet to a thou- 
sand above the sea, with small lakes and rivers ; its surface is rent 
into deep furrows, which, until a very late period in the summer, 
are filled with water, and being covered with a thick swampy moss, 
and in some places with long grass or bushes, it is extremely tedi- 
ous to traverse it on foot. Early in the summer myriads of moski- 
tos infest this swampy shore, and almost preclude the possibility of 
continuing any pursuit ; but in August they begin to die off, and 
soon afterwards entirely disappear. 



220 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Juty,- 

Chamisso Island, the highest part of which is 231 feet above 
the sea, is' steep, except to the eastward, where it ends in a low 
sandy point, upon which are the remains of some Esquimaux habi- 
tations ; it has the same swampy covering as the land just described, 
from which, until late in the summer, several streams descend, and 
are very convenient for procuring water. Detached from Chamisso, 
there is a steep rock which by way of distinction we named Puffin 
Island, composed of mouldering granite, which has been broken 
away in such a manner that the remaining part assumes the form of 
a tower. During the period of incubation of the aquatic birds, eve- 
ry hole and projecting crag on the sides of this rock is occupied by 
them. Its shores resound with the chorus of thousands of the 
feathery tribe ; and its surface presents a curiously mottled carpet 
of brown, black, and white. 

In a sandy bay upon the western side of the peninsula we found 
a few Esquimaux who had hauled up their baidars, and erected a 
temporary hut ; they were inferior in every respect to those we bad 
seen before, and furnished us with nothing new. In this bay we 
caught enough salmon and other fish to give a meal to the whole of 
the ship's company, which was highly acceptable ; but we had to 
regret that similar success did not attend our subsequent trials. 

By my instructions, I was desired to await the arrival of Captain 
Franklin at this anchorage ; but in a memoir drawn up by that offi- 
cer and myself, to which my attention was directed by the Admiral- 
ty, it was arranged that the ship should proceed to the northward, 
and survey the coast, keeping the barge in shore to look out for the 
land party, and to erect posts as signals of her having been there, 
and also to leave directions where to find the ship. 

I was also desired to place a small party in occupation of Cham- 
isso Island during the absence of the ship ; but this spot proved to 
be so different from what we imagined, being accessible in almost 
every quarter, instead of having only one landing place, that a 
a small party would have been of no use if the natives were inclin- 
ed to be hostile, and the numerical strength of the crew did not ad- 
mit of a large detachment being spared from her. But in order that 
Captain Franklin should not want provision in the event of his mis- 
sing the ship along the coast, and arriving at the island in her ab- 
sence, a tight barrel of flour was buried upon Puffin Rock, which 
appeared to be the most unfrequented spot in the vicinity, and di- 
rections for finding it were deposited in a bottle at Chamisso Island, 
together with such other information as he might require, and the 
place where it was deposited was pointed out by writing upon the 
cliffs with white paint. It was further arranged, that a party should 
proceed overland in a northerly direction, in the hope of fall- 
ing in with Captain Franklin, as it was possible the shore of the 



1826.] and beering's stbait. 221 

Polar Sea might lie more to the southward than the general 
trending of that part of its coast which had been explored led 
us to expect. But as the ship was likely to be absent several 
weeks, and we were unacquainted with the disposition of the people 
or with the country, further than that from its swampy nature, it 
seemed to present almost insurmountable difficulties to the journey r 
I deferred the departure of the party, and afterwards wholly aban- 
doned the project, as the coast was found to extend so far to the 
northward as to render it quite useless. 

As I wished to avail myself of the latitude, afforded by this me- 
moir, to survey and examine as much of the coast as possible before 
Captain Franklin arrived, no time was lost in preparing the ship for 
sea, which it required only a little time to effect. 

On the 28th Mr. Elson returned from the examination of the 
opening we discovered on the north side of Kctzebue Sound, and 
reported the water at the entrance to be shallow, that the barge 
could not enter. The inlet was of considerable width, and extend- 
ed thirty or forty miles In a broad sheet of water, which some distance 
up was fresh. This was ascertained by landing in the sound to the east- 
ward of the opening, at which place it was found that the inlet ap- 
proached the sea within a mile and a half. The time to which it was 
necessary to limit Mr. Elson, prevented his doing more than ascertain- 
ing that this opening was navigable only by small boats ; and by the: 
water being quite fresh, that it could not lead to any sea beyond. 

The Esquimaux in the inlet were more numerous than we sup- 
posed, but were very orderly and well behaved. When the barge 
anchored off a low sandy point, on which they had erected their 
summer habitations and fishing stakes, she was surrounded by four- 
teen baidars, containing 150 men ; which, considering the crew of 
the barge only amounted to eight men and two officers, was a su- 
periority of strength that might well have entitled them to take lib- 
erties, had they been disposed, armed as they usually are with bows 
and arrows, spears, and a large knife strapped to their thigh : but 
so far from this being the case, they readily consented to an arrange- 
ment, that only one baidar at a time should come alongside to dis- 
pose of her goods, and then make way for another : the proposal 
was made while the baidars were assembled round our boat, and 
was received with a shout of general applause. 

Blue beads, cutlery, tobacco, and buttons, were the articles in 
request, and with which almost any thing they had might have been 
purchased: for these they sold their implements, ornaments, and 
some very fine salmon ; also a small caiac very similar to those of 
Greenland and Hudson's Strait. 

While the duties of the ship were being forwarded under my first 
lieutenant, Mr. Peard, I took the opportunity to visit the extraordi- 



222 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Juty, 

nary ice-formation in Escholtz Bay, mentioned by Kotzebue as be- 
ing " covered with a soil half a foot thick, producing the most lux- 
uriant grass," and containing an abundance of mammoth bones. 
We sailed up the bay, which was extremely shallow, and landed at 
a deserted village on a low sandy point, where Kotzebue bivouack- 
ed when he visited the place, and to which I afterwards gave the 
name of Elephant Point, from the bones of that animal being found, 
near it. 

The cliffs in which this singular formation was discovered begin 
near this point, and extend westward in nearly a straight line to a 
rocky cliff* of primitive formation at the entrance of the bay, whence 
the coast takes an abrupt turn to the southward. The cliffs are 
from twenty to eighty feet in height ; and rise inland to a rounded 
range of hills between four and five hundred feet above the sea. In 
some places they present a perpendicular front to the northward, in 
others a slightly inclined surface ; and are occasionally intersected 
by valleys and water-courses generally overgrown with low bushes. 
Opposite each of these valleys, there is a projecting flat piece of 
ground, consisting of the materials that have been washed down the 
ravine, where the only good landing for boats is afforded. The soil 
of the cliffs is a bluish-coloured mud, for the most part covered with 
moss and long grass, full of deep furrows, generally filled with wa- 
ter or frozen snow. Mud in a frozen state forms the surface of the 
cliffin some parts ; in others the rock appears, with the mud above 
it, or sometimes with a bank half way up it, as if the superstratum 
had gradually slid down and accumulated against the cliff. By the 
large rents near the edges of the mud cliffs, they appear to be break- 
ing away, and contributing daily to diminish the depth of the water 
in the bay. 

Such is the general conformation of this line of coast. That particu- 
lar formation, which, when it was first discovered by Captain Kot- 
zebue, excited so much curiosity, and bore so near a resemblance 
.to an iceberg as to deceive himself and his officers, when they ap- 
proached the spot to examine it, remains to be described. As we 
rowed along the shore, the shining surface of small portions of the 
cliffs attracted our attention, and directed us where to search for this 
curious phenomenon, which we should otherwise have had difficulty 
in finding, notwithstanding its locality had been particularly descri- 
bed; for so large a portion of the ice cliff has thawed since it was 
visited by Captain Kotzebue and his naturalist, that only a few in- 
significant patches of the frozen surface now remain. The largest 
of these, situated about a mile to the westward of Elephant Point, 
was particularly examined by Mr. Collie, who, on cutting through 
the ice in a horizontal direction, found that it formed only a casing 
to the cliff which was composed of mud and gravel in a frozen state. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 223 

On removing the earth above, it was also evident, by a decided line 
of separation between the ice and the cliff, that the Russians had 
been deceived by appearances. By cutting into the upper surface 
of the cliff three feet from the edge, frozen earth, similar to that 
which formed the face of the cliff, was found at eleven inches' depth ; 
and four yards further back the same substance occurred at twenty- 
two inches' depth. 

The glacial facing we afterwards noticed in several parts of the 
sound : and it appears to me to be occasioned either by the snow 
being banked up against the cliff, or collected in its hollows in the 
winter, and converted into ice in the summer by partial thawings and 
freezings — or by the constant flow of water during the summer over 
the edges of the cliffs, on which the sun's rays operate less forcibly 
than on other parts, in consequence of their aspect. The streams 
thus become converted into ice, either while trickling down the 
still frozen surface of the cliffs, or after they reach the earth at their 
base, in which case the ice rises like a stalagmite, and in time reaches 
the surface. But before this is completed, the upper soil, loosened 
by the thaw is itself projected over the cliff, and falls in a heap 
below, whence it is ultimately carried away by the tide. We visited 
this spot a month later in the season, and found a considerable alter- 
ation in its appearance, manifesting more clearly than before the 
deception under which Kotzebue laboured. 

The deserted village upon the low point consisted of a row of 
huts, rudely formed with drift-wood and turf, about six feet square 
and four feet in height. In front of them was a quantity of drift- 
wood raised upon rafters ; and around them there were several 
heaps of bones and skulls of seals and grampuses, which in all prob- 
ability had been retained conformably with the superstitions of the 
Greenlanders, who carefully preserve these parts of the skeleton.* 
A rank grass grew luxuriantly about these deserted abodes, and also 
about the edges of several pools of fresh water, in which there were 
some wild fowl. We returned to the ship late at night, and found 
her ready for sea. 

* Crantz Greenland, Vol. 1. 



224 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC \Juhj , 



CHAPTER XI. 



Ctuit Kotzebue Sound, and proceed to survey the Coast to the Northward— Inter- 
views with the TVatives — Cape Thomson Point Hnpfi — Current — Capes Sabine 
and Beaufort — Barrier of Ice — Icy Cape — Advanced Position of the Ship — Dis- 
cover Cape Franklin, Wainwright Inlet, Shoals off Icy Cape, &c. — Boat sent on 
an Expedition along the Coast — Return of the Ship to Kotzebue Sound — Inter- 
views with the Esquimaux — Boat rejoins the Ship — Important Results of her Ex- 
pedition. 

On the 30th of July we weighed from Chamisso Island, attended 
by the barge, and steered out of the sound. The day was very 
fine ; and as we sailed along the northern shore, the sun was reflec- 
ted from several parts of the cliff, which our telescopes discovered 
to be cased with a frozen surface, similar to that just described in 
Escholtz Bay. We kept at six or seven miles distance from the 
land, and had a very even bottom, until near Hotham Inlet, when the 
soundings quickly decreased, and the ship struck upon a shoal be- 
fore any alteration of the helm had materially changed her position. 
The water was fortunately quite smooth, and she grounded so easi- 
ly, that, but for the lead-lines, we should not have known any thing 
had occurred. We found, upon sounding, that the ship had enter- 
ed a bight in the shoal, and that there was a small bank between 
her and deep water, so that it became necessary to carry out the 
stream anchor in the direction of her wake, by means of which, and 
a little rise of the tide, she soon got off. 

This shoal, which extends eight miles off the land, is very dan- 
gerous, as the soundings give very short warning of its proximity, 
and there are no good landmarks for avoiding it. The distance 
from the shore, could it be judged of under ordinary circumstances, 
would on some occasions be a most treacherons guide, as the mirage 
in fine weather plays about it and gives the land a very different 
appearance at one moment from that which it assumes at another. 

As soon as we were clear of the shoal, we continued our course 
for Cape Krusenstern, near which place we the next day buried a 
letter for Captain Franklin, and erected a post to direct him to the 
spot. The cape is a low tongue of land, intersected by lakes, lying 



1826.] and beering's strait. 225 

at the foot of a high cluster of hills not in any way remarkable. 
The land slopes down from them to several rocky cliffs, which, until 
the low point is seen at the foot of them, appear to be the entrance 
to the sound, but they are nearly a mile inland from it. The coast 
here takes an abrupt turn to the northward, and the current sets 
strong against the bend ; which is probably the reason of there be- 
ing deep water close to the beach, as also the occasion of a shoal 
in a north-westerly direction from the point, which appears to have 
been thrown up by the eddy water. 

The boat landed about two miles to the northward of this point, 
upon a shingly beach, sufficiently steep to afford very good landing 
when the water is smooth ; behind it there was a plain about a mile 
wide, extending from the hills to the sea, composed of elastic bog 
earth, intersected by small streams, on the edges of which the but- 
tercup, poppy, blue-bell, pedicularis, vaccinium, saxifrages, and 
some cruciform plants* throve very well ; in other parts, however, 
the vegetation was stinted, and consisted only of lichens and mos- 
ses. There were here some low mud cliffs frozen so hard that it 
required considerable labour to dig fifteen inches to secure the end 
of the post that was erected. 

Mr. Elson, in command of the barge, was now furnished with a 
copy of the signals drawn up by Captain Franklin and myself, and 
directed to proceed close along the shore to the northward, vigilantly 
looking out for boats, and erecting posts and landmarks in the most 
conspicuous places for Captain Franklin's guidance, and to trace the 
outline of the beach. He was also desired to explore the coast 
narrowly, and to fill in such parts of it as could not be executed in 
the ship, and instructed where to rendezvous in case of separation. 

We then steered along the coast, which took a north-westerly di- 
rection, and at midnight passed a range of hills terminating about 
four miles from the sea, which must be the Cape Mulgrave of Cap- 
tain Cook, who navigated this part of the coast at too great a dis- 
tance to see the land in front of the hills, which is extremely low, 
and after passing the Mulgrave Range, forms an extensive plain 
intersected by lakes near the beach ; these lakes are situated so 
close together that by transporting a small boat from one to the oth- 
er, a very good inland navigation, if necessary, might be performed. 
They are supplied by the draining of the land and the melting snow, 
and discharge their water through small openings in the shingly 
beach, too shallow to be entered by any thing larger than a baidar, 
one of them excepted, through which the current ran too strong for 
soundings to be taken. 

* The botany of this part of the coast is published in the Flora Americana of Dr. 
Hooker. 

29 



226 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [AllgUSt, 

On the 1st of August we did little more than drift along the coast 
with the current — which was repeatedly tried, and always found 
setting to the north-west — from half a mile to a mile and a half per 
hour. The Esquimaux, taking advantage of the calm, came off to 
the ship in three baidars, and added to our stock of curiosities by 
exchanging their manufactures for beads, knives, and tobacco. 

On the 2d, being favoured with a breeze, we closed with a high 
cape, which I named after Mr. Deas Thomson, one of the commis- 
sioners of the navy.* It is a bold promontory 450 feet in height, 
and marked with differently-coloured strata, of which there is a rep- 
resentation in the geological memorandum. As this was a fit place 
to erect a signal-post for Captain Franklin, we landed, and were 
met upon the beach by some Esquimaux, who eagerly sought an 
exchange of goods. Very few of their tribe understood better how 
to drive a bargain than these people ; and it was not until they had 
sold almost all they could spare, that we had any peace. We found 
them very honest, extremely good natured, and friendly. Their 
features, dress, and weapons were the same as before described in 
Kotzebue Sound, with the exception of some broad-headed spears, 
which they had probably obtained from the Tschutschi. They had 
more curiosity than our former visiters, and examimed very mi- 
nutely every part of our dress; from which circumstance, and their 
being frightened at the discharge of a gun, and no less astonished 
when a bird fell close to them, we judged they had had a very lim- 
ited intercourse with Europeans. The oldest person we saw among 
the party was a cripple about fifty years of age. The others were 
robust people above the average height of Esquimaux : the tallest 
man was five feet nine inches, and the tallest woman five feet four 
inches. All the women were tattooed upon the chin with three 
small lines, which is a general distinguishing mark of the fair sex 
along this coast ; this is effected by drawing a blackened piece of 
thread through the skin with a needle, as with the Greenlanders. 
Their hair was done up in large blaits on each side of the head, as 
described by Captain Parry at Melville Peninsula. We noticed a 
practice here amongst the women, similar to that which is common 
with the Arabs, which consisted of blacking the edges of the eye- 
lids with plumbago rubbed up with a little saliva upon a piece of 
slate. All the men had labrets, and both sexes had their teeth 
much worn down, probably by the constant application of them to 
hard substances, of which their dresses, implements, and canoes are 
made. 

They had several rude knives, probably obtained from the Ts- 
chutschi, some lumps of iron pyrites, and pieces of amber strung 

* A cape close to this has been named Cape Ricord by the Russians. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 227 

round their neck ; but I could not learn where they had procured 
them. 

As soon as we finished the necessary observations with the artifi- 
cial horizon, to the no small diversion and surprise of our inquisi- 
tive companions, we paid a visit to the next valley, where we found 
a small village situated close upon a fine stream of fresh water flow- 
ing from a large bed of thawing snow. The banks of the brook 
were fertile, but vegetation was more diminutive here than in Kot- 
zebue Sound ; notwithstanding which, several plants were found 
which did not exist there. The tents were constructed of skins 
loosely stretched over a few spars of drift-wood, and were neither 
wind nor water tight. They were, as usual, filthy, but suitable to 
the taste of their inhabitants, who no doubt saw nothing in them 
that was revolting. The natives testified much pleasure at our visit, 
and placed before us several dishes, among which were two of their 
choicest — the entrails of a fine seal, and a bowl of coagulated 
blood. But, desirous as we were to oblige them, there was not one 
of our party that could b.e induced to partake of their hospitality. 
Seeing our reluctance, they tried us with another dish, consisting of 
the raw flesh of the narwhal, nicely cut into lumps, with an equal 
distribution of black and white fat ; but they were not more success- 
ful here than at first. 

An old man then braced a skin upon a tambourine frame, and 
striking it with a bone gave the signal for a dance, which was im- 
mediately performed to a chorus of Angna aya ! angna aya ! the 
tambourine marking time by being flourished and twirled about 
against a short stick instead of being struck. The musician, who 
was also the principal dancer, jumped into the ring, and threw his 
body into different attitudes until quite exhausted, and then resign- 
ed his office to another, from whom it passed to a lad, who occa- 
sioned more merriment by his grimaces and ludicrous behaviour 
than any of his predecessors. His song was joined by the young 
women, who until then had been mute and almost motionless, but 
who now acquitted themselves with equal spirit with their leader, 
twisting their bodies, twirling their arms about, and violently rub- 
bing their sides with their garments, which, from some ridiculous 
association no doubt, occasioned considerable merriment. 

Against an obscure part of the cliff near the village we noticed a 
broad iron-headed halberd placed erect, with several bows and quiv- 
ers of arrows ; and near them a single arrow, with a tuft of feathers 
attached to it, suspended to the rock. The Esquimaux were re- 
luctant to answer our inquiries concerning this arrangement, and 
were much displeased when we approached the place. From the 
conduct of the natives at SchismarefF Inlet toward Captain Kotze- 
bue, it is not impossible that the shooting of this arrow may be a 



228 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

signal of hostility, as those people, after eying him attentively and 
suspiciously, paddled quickly away, and threw two arrows with 
bunches of feathers fastened to them toward their habitations, whence 
shortly afterwards issued two baidars, who approached Captain 
Kotzebue with very doubtful intentions. 

Upon an eninence beyond this cliff we found several dogs teth- 
ered to stakes ; and all the little children of the village, who had 
perhaps been sent out of the way, and who, on seeing us, set up a 
general lamentation. 

After viewing this village, we ascended Cape Thomson, and 
discovered low land jutting out from the coast to the W. N. W. as 
far as the eye could reach. As this point had never been placed 
in our charts, I named it Point Hope, in compliment to Sir Will- 
iam Johnstone Hope. 

Having buried a bottle for Captain Franklin upon the eminence, 
we took leave of our friends, and made sail towards the ship, which, 
in consequence of a current, was far to leeward, although she had 
been beating the whole day with every sail set. We continued to 
press the ship during the night, in order to maintain our position, 
that the barge might join ; but the current ran so strong, that the 
next morning, finding we lost rather than gained ground, I bore 
away to trace the extent of the low point discovered from Cape 
Thompson. On nearing it, we perceived a forest of stakes driven 
into the ground for the purpose of keeping the property of the na- 
tives off the ground ; and beneath them several round hillocks, which 
we afterwards found to be the Esquimaux yourts, or underground 
winter habitations. The wind fell very light off this point, and I 
went in the gig to pay a visit to the village, leaving directions to 
anchor the ship in case the wind continued light. After rowing a 
considerable time, we found a current running so strong that we did 
not make any progress, and it was as much as we could do to get 
back to the ship, which had in the mean time been anchored with 
the bower, having previously parted from the kedge. 

The current was now running W. by N. at the rate of three miles 
an hour. About five o'clock the next morning, however, it slack- 
ened to a mile and a half, and the boats were sent to creep for the 
kedge anchor, but it could not be found. A thick fog afterwards 
came on, which kept us at anchor until the next day. During this 
time signal guns were fired every two hours, as well on account of 
Captain Franklin as of our own boat. 

On the fifth we weighed, and set the studding-sails, but the ship 
would not steer, and came broadside to the tide, in spite of the 
helm and three boats ahead ; and continued in this position until a 
fresh breeze sprang up from the northward. 

It is necessary here to give some further particulars of this cur- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 229 

rent, in order that it may not be supposed that the whole body of 
water between the two great continents was setting into the Polar 
Sea at so considerable a rate. By sinking the patent log first five 
fathoms, and then three fathoms, and allowing it to remain in the 
first instance six hours, and in the latter twelve hours, it was clear- 
ly ascertained that there was no currant at either of those depths ; 
but at the distance of nine feet from the surface the motion of the 
water was nearly equal to that at the top. Hence we must con- 
clude that the current was superficial, and confined to a depth be- 
tween nine and twelve feet. 

By the freshness of the water alongside, there is every reason to 
believe that the current was occasioned by the many rivers which, 
at this time of the year, empty themselves into the sea in different 
parts of the coast, beginning with Schismareff Inlet. The specific 
gravity of the sea off that place was 1.02502, from which it gradu- 
ally decreased, and at our station off the point was 1.0173, the tem- 
perature at each being 58°. On the other hand, the strength of the 
stream had gradually increased from half a mile an hour to three miles, 
which was its greatest rapidity. So far there is nothing extraor- 
dinary in the fact ; but why this body of water should continually 
press to the northward in preference to taking any other direction, 
or gradually expending itself in the sea, is a question of considera- 
ble interest. 

In the afternoon the barge was discovered at anchor, close in- 
shore, and being favoured with a breeze the ship was brought close 
to the point. This enabled me to land, accompanied by Mr. Collie, 
who, while I was occupied with my theodolite, went toward the huts, 
which at first appeared to be deserted ; but as he was examining 
them several old women and children made their appearance, and 
gave him a friendly reception. He brought them to me, and we un- 
derwent the full delights of an affectionate Esquimaux salutation. 

The persons of our new acquaintance were extremely diminutive, 
dirty, and forbidding. Some were blind, others decripit ; and, dres- 
sed in greasy worn-out clothes, they looked perfectly wretched. 
Their hospitality, however, was even greater than we could desire ; 
and we were dragged away by the wrists to their hovels, on ap- 
proaching which we passed between heaps of filth and ruined habi- 
tations, filled with stinking water, to a part of the village which was 
in better repair. We were then seated upon some skins placed for 
the purpose ; and bowls of blubber, walrus, and unicorn flesh (mo- 
no don mono ceros) , with various other delicacies of the same kind, 
were successively offered as temptations to our appetite, which 
nevertheless, we felt no inclination to indulge. 

After some few exchanges, the advantage of which was on the 
side of our acquaintances, who had nothing curious to part with, an 



230 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

old man produced a tambourine, and seating himself upon the roof 
of one of the miserable hovels, threw his legs across, and commenc- 
ed a song, accompanying it with the tambourine, with as much ap- 
parent happiness as if fortune had imparted to him every luxury of 
life. The vivacity and humour of the musician inspired two of the 
old hags, who joined chorus, and threw themselves into a variety of 
attitudes, twisting their bodies, snapping their fingers, and smirking 
from behind their seal-skin hoods, with as much shrewd meaning as 
if they had been half a century younger. Several little chubby 
girls, roused by the music, came blinking at the daylight through 
the greasy roofs of the subterranean abodes, and joined the perform- 
ance ; and we had the satisfaction of seeing a set of people happy, 
who did not appear to possess a single comfort upon earth. 

The village consisted of a number of "yourts," excavated in a 
ridge of mud and gravel, which had. been heaped up in a parallel 
line with the beach. Their construction more nearly approached 
to the habitations of the Tschutschi than those of the Esquimaux 
of Greenland. They consisted of two pits about eight feet deep, 
communicating by a door at the bottom. The inner one had a 
dome-shaped roof, made with dry wood or bones ; it was covered 
with turf, that rose about four feet above the surface of the earth. 
In the centre of this there was a circular hole or window, covered 
with a piece of skin (part of the intestine of the whale), which gave, 
however, but very little light. The outer pit had a flat roof, and 
was entered by a square hole, over which there was a shed to pro- 
tect it from the snow and the inclemency of the weather. A rude 
ladder led to a floor of loose boards, beneath which our noses as 
well as our eyes were greeted by a pool of dirty green water. The 
inner chamber was the sleeping and cooking room. 

Another yourt, to which a store of provision was attached by a 
low subterraneous passage, was examined by Lieutenant Belcher 
the ensuing year : it was in other respects very similar, and needs 
no particular description. Of these yourts, one was of much larger 
dimensions than the others, which, it was intimated by the natives, 
was constructed for the purpose of dancing and amusing themselves. 
Mr. Belcher was particularly struck with the cleanliness of the 
boards and sleeping places in the interior of the yourt he examined ; 
whereas the passage and entrance were allowed to remain in a very 
filthy condition. The air was too oppressive to continue in them 
for any length of time. Every yourt had its rafters for placing 
sledges, skins of oil, or other articles upon in the winter time, to pre- 
vent their being buried in the sraow. The number of these frames, 
some bearing sledges, and others the skeletons of boats, formed a 
complete wood, and had attracted our notice, at the distance 
of six or seven miles. Of the many yourts which composed the 



1826.] and beering's strait. 231 

village, very few were occupied ; the others had their entrances 
blocked up with logs of drift-wood and the ribs of whales. From 
this circumstance, and the infirm condition of almost all who remain- 
ed at the village, it was evident that the inhabitants had gone on a 
sealing excursion, to provide a supply of food for the the winter. 
The natives, when we were about to take our leave, accompanied 
us to the boat, and, as we pushed off, they each picked up a few 
pebbles, and carried them away with them, but for what purpose 
we could not guess, nor had we ever seen the custom before. 

The point upon which this village stands, projects almost sixteen 
miles from the general line of coast; it is intersected by several lakes 
and small creeks, the entrances of which are on the north side. 
There is a bar across the mouth of the opening, consisting of peb- 
bles and mud, which has every appearance ofbeingonthe increase ; 
but when the water is smooth a boat may enter, and she will find 
very excellent security within from all winds. It is remarkable that 
both Cook and Clerke^who passed within a very short distance 
of this point, mistook the projection for ice that had been driven 
against the land, and omitted to mark in their chart. 

The next morning we communicated with the barge, and found 
she had been visited daily by the natives, who were very friendly. 
The current in-shore was more rapid than in the offing, and the wa- 
ter more fresh. After replenishing her provisions, we steered to the 
northward, and endeavoured to get in with the land on the north- 
ern side of Point Hope ; but the wind was so light that we could 
not hold our ground against the current, and were drifted away 
slowly to the northward. In the morning, the wind being still 
unfavourable for this purpose, we steered for the farthest land in 
sight to the northward, which answered to cape Lisburn of Captain 
Cook. As we approached it, the current slackened, and the depth 
and specific gravity of the sea both increased. We landed here, 
and ascended the mountain to obtain a fair view of the coast, which 
we found turned to the eastward, nearly at a right angle, and then 
to the north-eastward, as far as the eye could trace. Our height 
was 850 feet above the sea, and at so short a distance from it on 
one side, that it was fearful to look down upon the beach below. 
We ascended by a valley which collected the tributary streams of 
the mountain, and poured them in a cascade upon the beach. The 
basis of the mountain was flint of the purest kind, and limestone, 
abounding in fossil shells, enchinites, and marine animals. 

There was very little soil in the valley : the stones were covered 
with a thick swampy moss, which we traversed with great difficulty, 
and were soon wet through by it. Vegetation was, however, as 
luxuriant as in Kotzebue Sound, more than a hundred miles to the 
southward, or, what is of more consequence, more than that distance 



232 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

farther from the great harrier of ice. Several reindeer were feeding 
on this luxuriant pasture : the cliffs were covered with birds ; and 
the swamps generated myriads of moskitos, which were more per- 
severing, if possible, than those at Chamisso Island. 

After depositing a bottle at this place, and leaving proper direc- 
tions upon the cliff for finding it, we pursued our course to the east- 
ward, accompanied by the barge. The wind was light, and we made 
so little progress, that on the 9th Cape Lisburn was still in sight. 
Before it was entirely lost I landed at a small cape, which I named 
Cape Beaufort, in compliment to Captain Beaufort, the present 
hydrographer to the Admirality. The land northward was low and 
swampy, covered with moss and long grass, which produced all the 
plants we had met with to the southward, and two or three besides. 
Cape Beaufort is composed of sandstone, enclosing bits of petrified 
wood and rushes, and is traversed by narrow veins of coal lying in 
an E. N. E. and W. S. W. direction. That at the surface was dry 
and bad, but some pieces which had been thrown up by the burrow- 
ing of a small animal, probably the ermine, burned very well. 

As this is a part of the coast hitherto unexplored, I may stand 
excused for being a little more particular in my description. Cape 
Beaufort is situated in the depth of a great bay, formed between Cape 
Lisburn and Icy Cape, and is the last point where the hills come 
close down to the sea, by reason of the coast line curving to the north- 
ward, while the range of hills continues its former direction. From 
the rugged mountains of limestone and flint at Cape Lisburn, there 
is an uniform descent to the rounded hills of sandstone at Cape 
Beaufort just described. The range is however, broken by exten- 
sive valleys, intersected by lakes and rivers.. Some of these lakes 
border upon the sea, and in the summer months are accessible to 
baidars, or even large boats ; but as soon as the current from the beds 
of thawing snow inland ceases, the sea throws up a bar across the 
mouths of them, and they cannot be entered. The beach, at the 
places where we landed, was shingle and mud, the country mossy 
and swampy, and infested with moskitos. We noticed recent tracks 
of wolves, and of some cloven-footed animals, and saw several ptar- 
migans, ortolans, and a lark. Very little drift-wood had found its 
way upon this part of the coast. 

We reached the ship just after a thick fog came in, from seaward, 
and only a short time before the increasing breeze obliged her to 
quit the coast. During my absence the boats had been sent to ex- 
amine a large floating mass which excited a good deal of curiosity 
at the time, and found it to be the carcass of a dead whale. It had 
an Esquimaux harpoon in it, and a drag attached, made of an infla- 
ted sealskin, which had no doubt worried the animal to death. Thus, 
with knowledge just proportioned to their wants, do these untutored 



1826.] and beering's strait. 233 

barbarians, with their slender boats and limited means, contrive to 
take the largest animal of the creation. In the present instance, 
certainly, their victim had eluded their efforts, but the carcass was 
not yet " too high" for an Esquimanx palate, and would, no doubt, 
ere long, be either washed upon the shore, or discovered by some 
of the many wandering baidars along the coast. 

Some very extensive flocks of eider ducks had also been seen 
from the ship. They consisted entirely of females and young ones, 
the greater part of which could not fly, but they nevertheless contriv- 
ed to evade pursuit by diving. 

On the morning of the 10th we were under treblereefed topsails 
and foresail, with short head sea, in which we pitched away the jib- 
boom. We had a thick fog, with the wind at N. N. E. A little 
after noon, being in lat. 70° 09' N., and 165° 10' W., we had twen- 
ty-four fathoms hard bottom: we then stood toward the shore, and 
again changed the bottom to mud, the depth of water gradually de- 
creasing. On the 11th it was calm; by the observations at noon 
there had been a current to the S. W., but this had now ceased, as 
upon trial it ran west one-third of a mile per hour, and three hours 
afterward N. E. five-eighths per hour, which appeared to be the reg- 
ular tide. In the evening the wind again blew from the northward 
and brought a thick fog with it. We stood off and on, guided by 
the soundings. 

In the morning of the 12th we saw a great many birds, walrusses, 
and small white whales ; from which I concluded that we were 
near a stream of ice, but only one peice was seen in the evening 
aground. We tacked not far from it in ten fathoms. As we stood 
in-shore, the temperature of the sea always decreased ; the effect, 
probably, of the rivers of melting snow mingling with it. 

As it was impossible to determine the continuity of coast, with the 
weather so thick, farther than by the gradual decrease of the sound- 
ings, I stood to the northward to ascertain the position of the ice, the 
wind having changed to E. N. E. and become favourable for the 
purpose. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 13th, the fog clear- 
ed off, and exhibited the main body of ice extending from N. 79° 
E. to S. 29° W. (true) At nine we tacked amongst the brash, in 
twenty-three fathoms water, in lat. 71° 08' N., long. 163° 40' W. 
The wind was blowing along the ice, and the outer part of the pack 
was in streams, some of which the ship might have entered, and 
perhaps have proceeded up them two or three miles ; but as this 
would have served no useful purpose, and would have occasioned 
unnecessary delay, I again stood in for the land, which at eight o'clock 
at night was seen in a low unbroken line, extending to the west- 
ward as far as Icy Cape and to the eastward as far as the state of 
the weather would permit. We tacked at nine, in five fathoms wa- 

30 



234 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

ter, within two miles of the shore ; and Lieutenant Belcher was 
despatched in the cutter to examine some posts that were erected 
upon it, thinking they might possibly have been placed there by 
the land expedition. The boat found a heavy surf breaking upon 
a sand bank at a little distance from the beach, which prevented her 
landing, and a fog coming on, she was recalled before the attempt 
could be made in another place. There was a thick wetting fog du- 
ring the night. The next morning a boat was again sent on shore, 
with Lieutenant Belcher, Messrs. Collie and Wolfe, to make observa- 
tions, collect plants, and erect a mark for Captain Franklin. They 
had nearly the same difficulty in reaching the beach, on account of 
shoals, as at the former place, but there was less swell. 

Shortly after noon I landed myself, and found that at the back of 
the beach there was a lake two miles long, in the direction of the 
coast ; it had a shallow entrance at its south-west end, sufficiently 
deep for baidars only. The main land at the back of it presented 
a range of low earth cliffs, behind which there were some hills, a- 
bout two hundred feet high. Near the entrance to the lake there 
were two yourts, inhabited by some Esquimaux, who sold us two 
swans and four hundred pounds of venison, which being divided 
amongst the crew, formed a most acceptable meal. These swans 
were without their feet, which had been converted into bags, after 
the practice of the eastern Esquimaux ; and it is remarkable, that 
although so far from Kamschatka and the usual track of vessels, 
these people expressed no surprise at the appearance either of the 
ship or the boat, and that they were provided both with knives and 
iron kettles. 

In our way to the huts we saw several human bones scattered a- 
bout, and a skull which had the teeth worn down nearly to the 
gums. There appeared to be no place of interment near, and the 
body had probably decayed where the bones were lying. So little 
did the natives care for these mouldering remains that springs for catch- 
ing birds were set amongst them. The beach upon which we landed 
was shingle and sand, interspersed with pieces of coal, sandstone, flint, 
and porphyritic granite. Vegetation was very luxuriant, and supplied 
Mr. Collie with three new species. The drift wood was here more 
abundant than at any place we before visited : it was forced high 
upon the beach, probably by the pressure of the ice when driven a- 
gainst the coast. 

It was high water at this station at noon. The tide fell three 
feet and a half in four hours, and ebbed to the south-west. A post 
was here put up for the land expedition, and a bottle buried near it 
We then embarked and got on board, just as a thick fog obscured 
every thing, and obliged the ship to stand off the coast. In the 
course of the afternoon the dredge was put over, and supplied us with 



1826.] and beering's strait. 235 

some specimens of shells of the area, murex, venus, and buccinum 
genus, and several lumps of coal. We stood to the N. W., and at 
midnight tacked amongst the loose ice at the edge of the pack in so 
thick a fog that we could not see a hundred yards around us. 

At half past five in the morning a partial dispersion of the fog 
discovered to us the land, bearing N. 86° E., extending in a N. E. 
direction as far as we could see. At six we tacked in eleven fath- 
oms within three miles of it, and not far from an opening into a spa- 
cious lake, which appeared to be the estuary of a considerable river. 
There was a shoal across the mouth connected with the land on 
the northern side, but with a channel for boats in the opposite direc- 
tion. A large piece of ice was aground near it. The country 
around was low, covered with a brown moss, and intersected by wa- 
ter-courses. To the northward of the entrance of the lake the coast 
became higher, and presented an extensive range of mud cliffs, ter- 
minating in a cape, which, as it afterwards proved the most distant 
land seen from the ship, I named after Captain Franklin, R. N., un- 
der whose command 1 had the pleasure to serve on the first Polar 
expedition : but as this cape was afterwards found to be a little way 
inland, I transferred the name to the nearest conspicuous point of 
the coast. 

The natives, taking advantage of this elevated ground, had con- 
structed their winter residences in it : they were very numerous, 
and extended some way along the coast. The season, however, 
was not yet arrived at which the Esquimaux take up their abode in 
their subterranean habitations, and they occupied skin tents upon a 
low point at the entrance of the lake. We had not been long off 
here before three baidars from the village paddled alongside and 
bartered their articles as usual. Some of the crew ascended the 
side of the ship without any invitation, and showed not the least sur- 
prise at any thing they beheld, which I could not help particularly 
remarking, as we were not conscious of any other vessel having 
been upon the coast since Kotzebue's voyage, and he did not reach 
within two hundred miles of the residence of these people. There 
was nothing in our visiters different to what we had seen before ex- 
cept that they were better dressed. One of them, pointing to the 
shore, drew his hand round the northern horizon as far as the south 
west, by which he no doubt intended to instruct us that the ice, oc- 
cupied that space It would, however, have answered equally well 
for the land, supposing the coast beyond what we saw to have taken 
a circuitous direction. With the view of having this explained, I 
took him to the side of the ship on which the land was, and intima- 
ted a desire that he would delineate the coast ; but be evidently 
did not understand me, as he and his companions licked their hands, 
stroked their breasts, and then went into their boats and paddled 
on shore, 



236 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

The appaiently good-natured disposition of these people, and in- 
deed of the whole of their tribe upon the coast to this advanced 
position, was a source of the highest gratification to us all, as it re- 
garded Captain Franklin's welfare ; for it was natural to conclude, 
that the whole race, which we had reason to think extended a con- 
siderable distance to the eastward, would partake of the same friendly 
feeling, and what was by many considered a material obstacle to his, 
success, would thereby be removed. At this place in particular, 
where the natives appeared to be so numerous that they could have 
overpowered his party in a minute, it was gratifying to find them so 
well disposed. 

After the natives were gone, we stood to the north-westward, in 
the hope that the wind, which had been a long time in the north- 
eastern quarter, would remain steady until we ascertained the point 
of conjunction of the ice and the land, which, from its position when 
seen in the morning, there was much reason to suppose would be 
near the extreme point of land in view from the mast-head. Un- 
fortunately, while we were doing this, the wind fell light, and grad- 
ually drew round to the north-westward ; and apprehending it might 
get so far in that direction as to embay the ship between the land 
and the ice, it became my duty to consider the propriety of await- 
ing the result of such a change ; knowing the necessity of keeping 
the ship in open water, and at all times, as far as could be done, 
free from risk, in order to insure her return to the rendezvous in 
Kotzebue Sound. There was at this time no ice in sight from the 
ship, except a berg that was aground in-shore of her ; and though 
a blink round the northern horizon indicated ice in that direction, 
yet the prospect was so flattering that a general regret was enter- 
tained that an attempt to effect the north-eastern passage did not 
form the object of the expedition. We all felt the greatest desire 
to advance, but considering what would be the consequences of any 
accident befalling the ship, which might either oblige her to quit these 
seas at once, or prevent her returning to them a second year, it was 
evident that by her being kept in open water was paramount to every 
other consideration ; particularly as she had been furnished with a 
decked launch, well adapted by her size to prosecute a service of 
this nature. It was one of those critical situations in which an officer 
is sometimes unavoidably placed, and had further discovery depen- 
ded upon the Blossom alone, it is probable I should have proceeded 
at all hazards. My orders, however, being positive to avoid the 
chance of being beset in the ship, I considered only how I could 
most beneficially employ both vessels, and, at the same time, com- 
ply with the spirit of my instructions. Thus circumstanced, I de- 
termined to get hold of the barge as soon as possible, and to de- 
spatch her along the coast, both with a view of rendering Captain 



1826.] and beering's strait. 237 

Franklin's party the earliest possible assistance, and of ascertaining 
how far it was possible for a boat to go. Not a moment was to be 
lost in putting this project in execution, as the middle of August 
was arrived, and we could not calculate on a continuance of the 
fine weather with which we had hitherto been favoured. We ac- 
cordingly returned towards Icy Cape, in order to join the barge 
which was surveying in that direction. 

We passed along the land in about eight fathoms water until near 
Icy Cape, when we came rather suddenly into three fathoms and 
three quarters, but immediately deepened the soundings again to 
seven : the next cast, however, was four fathoms ; and not know- 
ing how soon we might have less, the ship was immediately brought 
to an anchor. Upon examination with the boats, several succes- 
sive banks were found at about three quarters of a mile apart, lying 
parallel with the coast line. Upon the outer ones, there were only 
three and a half or four fathoms, and upon the inner bank, which 
had hitherto escaped notice from being under the sun, so little wa- 
ter that the sea broke constantly over it. Between the shoals there 
were nine and ten fathoms, with very irregular casts. These shoals 
lie immediately off Icy Cape, where the land takes an abrupt turn 
to the eastward, and are probably the effect of a large river, which 
here empties itself into the sea ; though they may be occasioned by 
heavy ice grounding off the point, and being fixed to the bottom, 
as we found our anchor had so firm a hold, that in attempting to 
weigh it the chain cable broke, after enduring a very heavy strain. 

This cape, the farthest point reached by Captain Cook, was at 
the time of its discovery very mnch encumbered with ice, whence 
it received its name ; none, however, was now visible. The cape 
is very low, and has a large lake at the back of it, which receives 
the water of a considerable river, and communicates with the sea 
through a narrow channel much encumbered with shoals. There 
are several winter habitations of the Esquimaux upon the cape, 
which were afterwards visited by Lieutenant Belcher. The main 
land on both sides of Icy Cape, from Wainwright Inlet on one side 
to Cape Beaufort on the other, is fiat, and covered with swampy 
moss. It presents a line of low mud cliffs, between which and a 
shingly beach that every where forms the coast-line there is a suc- 
cession of narrow lakes capable of being navigated by baidars or 
small boats. Off here we saw a great many black whales — more 
than I remember ever to have seen, even in Baffin's Bay. 

After the boats had examined the shoal outside the ship, we at- 
tempted to weigh the anchor ; but in so doing we broke first the 
messenger, and afterwards the chain, by which the anchor was lost, 
as I before mentioned, and the buoy-rope having been carried away 
in letting it go, it was never recovered. 



238 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

We passed over two shoals in three and four fathoms, deepening 
the water to ten and eleven fathoms between them, and then held 
our ground for the night. A thick fog came on towards morning, 
which lasted until noon, when it cleared away, and we had the sat- 
isfaction to be joined by the barge. 

Since our separation, Mr. Elson had kept close along the beach, 
and ascertained the continuity of the land from the spot where the 
ship quitted the coast to this place, thereby removing all doubts on 
that head, and proving that Captain Franklin would not find a pas- 
sage south of the cape to which I had given his name. The sound- 
ings were every where regular, and the natives always friendly, 
though not numerous. Their habitations were invariably upon low 
strips of sand bordering upon some brackish lakes, w T hich extended 
along the coast in such a manner, that in case the ice was driven 
against it, a good inland navigation might be performed, transporting 
a small boat across the narrow necks that separate them. 

Drift-wood was every where abundant, though least so on such 
parts of the coast as had a western aspect, but without any appar- 
ent reason for this difference. After supplying the barge with wa- 
ter, we beat to the northward together, but found so strong a south 
westerly current running round Icy Cape, that, the ship being light, 
we could gain nothing to the windward ; and observing that the 
barge had the advantage of us by keeping in-shore, and that we 
were only a hindrance to her, I made her signal to close us, and 
prepared her for the interesting service in view. My intentions 
w r ere no sooner made known than I had urgent applications for the 
command of the barge from the superior officers of the ship, who, 
with the ardour natural to their profession when any enterprise is in 
view, came forward in the readiest manner, and volunteered their 
services ; but Mr. Elson, the master, who had hitherto commanded 
the boat, had acquitted himself so much to my satisfaction, that I 
could not in justice remove him ; more especially at a moment when 
the service to be performed was inseparable from risk. Mr. Smyth 
the seinor mate of the ship, was placed with Mr. Elson, who had be- 
sides under his command a crew of six seamen and two marines. 

My instructions to Mr. Elson were to trace the shore to the north- 
eastward as far as it was possible for a boat to navigate, with a view 
to render the earliest possible assistance to Captain Franklin, and 
to obtain what information he could of the trending of the coast and 
of the position of the ice. He was also directed to possess himself 
of facts which, in the event of the failure of the other expedition, 
would enable us to form a judgment of the probable success which 
might attend an attempt to effect a north-eastern passage in this 
quarter : and further, he was to avoid being beset in the ice, by re- 
turning immediately the wind should get to the north-west or west- 



1826.] AND BEERING^S STRAIT. 239 

ward, and not to prolong his absence from the ship beyond the first 
week in September. He was at the same time ordered to place 
landmarks and directions in conspicuous places for Captain Frank- 
lin's guidance ; and if possible, on his return, to examine the shoals 
off Icy Cape. 

We steered together to the northward with foggy weather until 
midnight on the 17th, when I made Mr. Elson's signal to part com- 
pany, and he commenced his interesting expedition with the good 
wishes of all on board. We continued our course to the northward 
until four o'clock in the morning of the 18th, when the fog, as is 
ususal in the neighbourhood of the ice, cleared away, and we saw 
the main body in latitude 71° 07' N. nearly in the same position we 
had left it some days before. It was loose tit the edge, but close 
within, and consisted of heavy floes. We tacked near it, and found 
it trending from E. to S. W. (mag.) There were no living things 
near it, except a few tern and kittiwakes ; which was rather re- 
markable, as the edge of the ice is usually frequented by herds of 
amphibious animals. As we receded from the ice, the fog again 
thickened, and latterly turned to small snow. The temperature 
was about the freezing point. At noon the sun broke through, and 
we found ourselves in latitude 70° 18' N., and by the soundings 
about twelve miles from the land, which was not seen. By this we 
discovered that instead of gaining twenty miles to the eastward, we 
had lost four : by which it was evident that a current had been run- 
ning S. 58° W. a mile an hour ; off this place, however, it was 
found upon trial to run S. 60° W. only half a mile per hour. The 
fog afterwards came on very thick and remained so during the day. 

Finding the inconvenience from the current oflTcy Cape, I steer- 
ed to the westward, to ascertain how near the ice approached the 
coast in that direction ; and on the 20th, I stood in for the land 
which is about midway between Cape Beaufort and Icy Cape, to 
verify some points of the survey. About this time immense flocks 
of ducks, consisting entirely of young ones and females, were seen 
migrating to the southward. The young birds could not fly ; and 
not having the instinct to avoid the ship in time, one immense flock 
was run completly over by her. They, however, were more wary 
when the boats were lowered, and successfully avoided our attempts 
to shoot them, by diving. At the place where we landed, there 
was a long lake between us and the main land ; and our walk was 
confined to a strip of shingle and sand, about 150 yards wide, and 
about six feet above the level of the sea. In the sheltered parts of 
it there were a few flowers, but no new species. The lake was 
connected with the sea at high tide, and was consequently salt ; but 
we obtained some water sufficiently fresh to drink by digging at a 
distance of less than a yard from its margin, a resource of which the 
natives appeared to be well aware. 



'240 VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

An abundance of drift wood was heaped upon the upper part of 
the shingle. The trees were torn up by the roots, and some were 
worm-eaten ; but the greater part appeared to have been only a 
short time at sea, and all of it, that I examined, was pine. 

From the desolate appearance of the coast where we landed, I 
scarcely expected to find a human being, but we had no sooner put 
our foot ashore than a biadar full of people landed a short distance 
from us. Her crew consisted of three grown-up males and four fe- 
males, besides two infants. They were as ready as their neighbours 
to part with what they had in exchange for trifles ; esteeming our 
old brass buttons above all other articles, excepting knives. There 
was a blear-eyed old hag of the party, who separated from her com- 
panions, and seated herself upon a piece of drift wood at a little dis- 
tance from the baidar, and continued there, muttering an unintelli- 
gible language, and apparrently believing herself to be holding com- 
munion with that invisible world to which she was fast approaching. 
Though in her dotage, her opinion was consulted, and on more than 
one occasion in a mysterious manner. We afterwards witnessed sev- 
eral instances of extremely old women exercising great influence 
over the younger part of the community. On this occasion I pur- 
chashed a bow and quiver of arrows for a brooch. The man who 
sold them referred the bargain to the old woman above-mentioned, 
who apparently disapproved of it, as the brooch was returned, and 
the bow and arrows re-demanded. 

The males of this party were all provided with lip ornaments ; 
and we noticed a gradation in the size, corresponding to the ages of 
the party who wore them, as well as a distinction in the nature of 
them. Two young lads had the orifices in their lips quite raw : 
they were about the size of a crow-quill, and were distended with 
small cylindrical pieces of ivory, with a round knob at one end to 
prevent their falling out. For some time after the operation has 
been performed, it is necessary to turn the cylinders frequently, that 
they may not adhere to the festering flesh : in time this action be- 
comes as habitual with some of them as that of twirling the musta- 
chois is with a Muasulman. In the early stage it is attended with 
great pain, the blood sometimes flowing, and I have seen tears come 
into the boys' eyes while doing it. Lip ornaments, with the males, 
appear to correspond with the tattooing of chins of the females ; a 
mark which is universally borne by the women throughout both 
the eastern and western Esquimaux tribes : the custom of wearing 
the labrets, however, does not extend much beyond the Mackenzie 
River. The children we saw to-day had none of these marks ; a 
girl, about eleven, had one line only ; and a young woman, about 
twenty-three years of age, the mother of the infants, had the three 
perfect. One of her children was rolling in the bottom of the bai- 



1S26.] and beering's strait. 241 

dar, with a large piece of seal-blubber in its mouth, sucking it as an 
European child would coral. The mother was rather pretty, and 
allowed her portrait to be taken. At first she made no objection to 
being gazed at as steadfastly as was necessary for an indifferent ar- 
tist to accomplish his purpose ; but latterly she shrunk from the 
scrutiny with a bashfulness that would have done credit to a more 
civilized female ; and on my attempting to uncover her head, she 
cast a look of inquiry at her husband, who vociferated " naga," when 
she very properly refused to comply. The young men were very 
importunate and curious, even to annoyance ; and there is little 
doubt that if any persons in our dress had fallen in with a powerful 
party of these savages, they would very soon have been made to ex- 
change their suit of broad cloth for the more humble dress of furs. 
Their honesty w T as not more conspicuous than their moderation, as 
they appropriated to themselves several articles belonging to Mr. 
Collie.. 

During three hours that we were on shore, the tide fell one foot ; 
it had subsided eighteen inches from its greatest height when we 
first landed, and when we put off was still ebbing to the S. S. W. at 
the rate of half a mile an hour. Four hours afterwards, when by 
our observations on shore it must have changed, it ran N. 1-2 E. 
at the same rate, and afforded another instance of the flood coming 
from the southward. 

A thick fog came on after we returned on board. The next 
morning we closed with the land near Cape Beaufort, with a view 
of trying the veins of coal in its neighbourhood, as we were very 
short of that article ; but the wind veered round to the N. N. W., 
and by making it a lee shore prevented the boats landing, and ren- 
dered it expedient for the ship, which was very light, and hardly 
capable of beating off, to get an offing. The bay was fine, and 
afforded an opportunity of verifying some of our points, which we 
had the satisfaction to find quite correct. The next day the wind 
veered to S. S. W. and then to the westward. Throughout the 
23d, 24th, and part of the 25th, it blew hard, with a short head sea, 
thick weather, and latterly with snow showers, which obliged the 
ship to keep at so great a distance that the land expedition would 
have passed her unobserved, had they been in progress along the 
c )ast. With these winds we kept off the coast. The night of the 
25th was clear and cold, with about four hours' darkness, during 
wmich we beheld a brilliant display of the aurora borealis, which 
was the first time that phenomenon had been exhibited to us in this 
part of the world.'' It first appeared in an arch extending from W. 
by N. to N. E. mag. (by the north), passing through benetnasch, 
@. y. Ursae Maj. and (9. Aurigae, decidedly dimming their lustre. 
The arch, shortly after it was formed, broke up ; but united again, 

31 



242 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [AugUSt, 

threw out a few coruscations, and then entirely disappeared. Soon 
after, a new display began in the direction of the western foot of 
the first arch, preceded by a bright flame, from which emanated 
coruscations of a pale straw-colour. An almost simultaneous move- 
ment occurred at both extremities of the arch, until a complete seg- 
ment was formed of wavering perpendicular radii. As soon as the 
arch was complete, the light became greatly increased ; and the 
prismatic colours, which had before been faint, now shone forth in 
a very brilliant manner. The strongest colours, which were also 
the outside ones, were pink and green ; the centre colour was yel- 
low, and the intermediate ones on the pink side purple and green, 
all of which were as imperceptibly blended as in the rainbow. The 
green was the colour nearest the zenith. This magnificent display 
lasted a few minutes ; and the light had nearly vanished, when the 
N. E. quarter sent forth a vigorous display, and nearly at the same 
time a corresponding coruscation emanated from the opposite ex- 
tremity. The western foot of the arch then disengaged itself from 
the horizon, crooked to the northward, and the whole retired to the 
N. E. quarter, where a bright spot blazed for a moment, and all 
was darkness. I have been thus particular in my description, because 
the appearance was unusually brilliant, and because very few obser- 
vations on this phenomenon have been made in this part of the 
world. There was no noise audible during any part of our obser- 
vations, nor were the compasses perceptibly affected. The night 
was afterwards squally, with cumuli and nimbi, which deposited 
showers of sleet and snow as they passed over us, the wind being 
rather fresh throughout. 

On the 26th the weather was moderate, and being off Point Hope, 
on which there were several lakes and a great abundance of drift- 
wood, the boats were sent to endeavour to procure a supply of fuel 
and water. We had completed only one turn, and buried a bottle 
for Captain Franklin, when the wind freshened from the S. W. and 
prevented a second landing. During the afternoon we turned to 
windward, with the wind blowing fresh from the westward. 

From the ti*r ? our passing Beering's Strait up to the 23d 
instant, we enj<;.. :n i almost uninterrupted series of fine weather; 
during which we had fortunately surveyed the whole of the coast 
from Cape Prince of Wales as far to the northward as I deemed it 
proper to go, consistent with the necessity of keeping the ship, at 
all times, in open water and in safety. Now, however, there ap- 
peared to be a break up, and a commencement of westerly winds, 
which made the whole of this coast a lee shore, and together with 
several hours of darkness, rendered it necessary to keep the ship 
at a distance from the land. In doing this the chances were equal 
that the land expedition, in the event of its success, would pass her. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 243 

I therefore determined to repair to the rendezvous in Kotzebue 
Sound, and, as nothing further was to be done at sea, to await there 
the arrival of our boat and of Captain Franklin's expedition. Ac- 
cordingly on the 27th we made Cape Krusenstern, and on the fol- 
lowing evening anchored at Chamisso Island nearly in our former 
situation. 

Directly the ship was secured, two boats were despatched to the 
islands to examine the state of the rivulets, and ascertain whether 
the cask of flour, that had been buried for Captain Franklin's use, 
had been molested ; our suspicion of its safety having been excited 
by observing six baidars upon the beach opposite the anchorage, 
none of which ventured off to the ship as was usual. On the re- 
turn of the boat from Chamisso Island we learned that there was 
not a drop of water to be had, in consequence of the streams at 
which we had formerly filled our casks being derived from beds of 
thawing ice and snow which were now entirely dissolved. 

By the other boat, we, found, as we expected, that the cask of 
flour had been dug up and broken open, that the hoops had been 
taken away, and that the flour had been strewed about the ground, 
partly in a kneaded state. Suspicion immediately fell upon the 
natives encamped upon the peninsula, which was strengthened by 
the manner in which they came off the next morning, dancing and 
playing a tambourine in the boats, a conciliatory conduct with which 
we had never before been favoured. When they came alongside, 
. they were shown a handful of flour, and were referred to the island 
upon which the cask had been buried. Their guilty looks showed 
that they perfectly understood our meaning ; but they strongly pro- 
tested their innocence, and as a proof that they could not possibly 
have committed the theft, they put their fingers to their tongues, 
and sp ~ Q a with disgust, to show us how much they dis- 

liked t : -i little considering that the fact of 

their I oof of their having tasted 

it : bi is T wished as 

much as, ^ : of the land 

expedition. 

The baidars of these people . iei 

seen, excepting those of the St. Lawrence 
resembled in having a flap made of walrus skin attaciiw 
wale for the purpose of keeping their bows and arrows dry. ± n^ 
natives had a great variety of articles for sale, all of which they 
readily parted with, except their bows, arrows, and spears, and these 
they would on no account sell. Several old men were among their 
party, all of whom sat in the stern of the boat, a deference which, 
as I have already said, we everywhere observed to be paid to age 
by the younger part of this tribe. When they had sold all they in- 



244 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [AugUSt, 

tended to part with, and had satisfied their curiosity, they paddled 
on shore, well satisfied, no doubt, at having escaped detection. 

The next morning the boats were sent to find water and to dig 
wells upon Chamisso Island, as we had but nine days' supply on 
board at very reduced allowance. In the mean time I paid a visit 
to the Esquimaux, who were on their travels towards home with 
cargoes of dried salmon, oil, blubber, and skins, which they had col- 
lected in their summer excursion along the coast. When they per- 
ceived our boat approaching the shore, they despatched a baidar to 
invite us to their encampment ; and as we rowed towards the place 
together, observing with what facility they passed our boats, they 
applied their strength to their paddles, and, exulting on the advan- 
tage they possessed, left us far behind. It was perfectly smooth 
and calm, or this would not have been the case, as their boats have 
no hold of the water, and are easily thrown back by a wave ; and 
when the wind is on the side, they have the greatest difficulty in 
keeping them in the right direction. 

The shallowness of the water obliged our boat to land a short dis- 
tance from the village ; and the natives, who by this time had haul- 
ed up their baidair, walked down to meet us with their arms drawn 
in from their sleeves, and tucked up inside their frocks. They were 
also very particular that every one should salute us, which they did 
by licking their hands, and drawing them first over their own faces 
and bodies, and then over ours. This was considered the most 
friendly manner in which they could receive us, and they were of- 
ficiously desirous of ingratiating themselves with us; but they would 
on no account suffer us to approach their tents ; and, when we urg- 
ed it, seemed determined to resist, even with their weapons, which 
were carefully laid out upon the low piece of ground near them. 
They were resolved, nevertheless, that we should partake of their 
hospitality, and seating us upon a rising ground, placed before us 
strips of blubber in wooden bowls, and whortle-berries i 
with fat and oil, or some such hei 
not taste ' parts 

■ i e procured a 

. pi . 

- in uuuut about a 
ferred it to a second person, or more com- 
nbrily io some of the old women. If they approved of it, our offer was 
accepted ; if not, they took back their goods. On several occasions, 
however, they tried to impose upon us with fish-skins, ingeniously 
put together to represent a whole fish, though entirely deprived of 
their original contents ; but this artifice succeeded only once. The 
natives, when detected in other attempts, laughed heartily, and trea^ 
ted the matter as a fair practical joke. Their cunning and inven- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 245 

tion were farther exhibited in the great pains which they took to 
make us understand, before we parted, that the flour had been 
stolen by a party who had absconded on seeing the ship. Their 
gestures clearly intimated to us that the attention of this party had 
been attracted to the spot by the newly-turned earth, though we 
had replaced it very carefully ; on which, it appears, they began to 
dig, and, to their great surprise and joy no doubt they soon discov- 
ered the cask. They knocked off the hoops with a large stone, 
and then tasted the contents, which they intimated were very nau- 
seous. The thieves then packed up the hoops, and carried them 
over the hills to another part of the country. 

We patiently heard the whole of this circumstantial account, which 
we had afterwards great reason to believe was an invention of their 
own, and that they had some of the flour secreted in their tents, 
which, no doubt, was the reason of their dislike to our approaching 
them. 

In the forenoon one of our seamen found a piece of board upon 
Chamisso Island, upon which was written, in Russian characters, 
"Rurick, July 28th, 1816," and underneath it " Blaganome erin- 
oy, 1820." The former was, of course, cut by Kotzebue when he 
visited the island ; and the latter, I suppose, by Captain Von Ba- 
silief Schismareffj his lieutenant, who paid this island a second visit 
in 1820. 

Upon the low point of this island there was another party of Es- 
quimaux, who differed in several particulars from those upon the 
peninsula. I was about to pay them a visit, but early in the morn- 
ing our peninsular friends came off to say they were going away ;. 
and as I wished to see a little more of them before they left us, I 
deferred going there until the next day, by which I lost the oppor- 
tunity of seeing those upon Chamisso, as they decamped in the eve- 
ning unobserved. Like the party on the peninsula, they were or* 
their return to winter quarters, with large heaps of dried fish, seals,. 
flesh, oil, skins, and all the necessary appurtenances to an Esqui- 
maux residence. They had four tents and several baidars, which 
were turned over upon their nets and fishing-tackle for protection. 
In one of their tool-chests was found a part of an elephant's toothy 
of the same species as those which were afterwards collected in 
Escholtz Bay. They had the same aversion to our officers approach- 
ing their habitations as the party before described on the peninsula, 
and in all probability it proceeded from the same cause, as Mr. Os- 
mer detected a young girl eating some of our flour mixed up with 
oil and berries. On seeing him she ran hastily into her tent, and 
in so doing spilt some of the mixture, which led to the discovery. 

The women of this party differed from the females we had hitherto 
seen, in having the septum of the nose pierced, and a large blue bead 



246 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

strung upon a strip of whalebone passed through the orifice, the bead 
hanging as low as the opening of the mouth. One of them, on re- 
ceiving a large stocking needle, thrust it into the orifice, or as some 
of the seamen said, " spritsail-yarded her nose." A youth of the 
party, who had not yet had his lips perforated, wore his hair in 
bunches on each side of the head, after the fashion of the women, 
which I notice as being the only instance of the kind we had met 
with, and which I trust does not indicate a nearer resemblance to a 
class of individuals mentioned by LangsdorfF as existing in Oonala- 
shka under the denomination of Schopans. 

Red and blue beads, buttons, knives, and hatchets were as usual 
the medium through which every thing they would part with was 
purchased. The men were more excited than usual by a looking- 
glass, which, after beholding their own features in it, and admiring 
alternately the reflection of their head and lip ornaments, they very 
inconsiderately carried it to one of their party who was perfectly 
blind, and held before his face. As this was done rather seriously, 
certainly without any appearance of derision, it is possible that they 
imagined it might produce some effect upon his sight. 

On landing at the encampment on the peninsula, I was received 
in a more friendly manner even than the day before. Each of the 
natives selected a friend from among our party, and, like the Gam- 
bier islanders, locked their arms in ours, and led us to a small piece 
of rising ground near their tents, where we sat down upon broad 
planks and deer-skins. A dried fish was then presented to each of 
us, and a bowl of cranberries mashed up with sorrel and rancid train- 
oil was passed round, after the manner of the Kraikees on the Asi- 
atic shore ; but, however palatable this mixture might have been to 
our hosts, it was very much the reverse to us, and none of our par- 
ty could be induced to partake of it, except Mr. Osmer, who did so 
to oblige me at the expense of his appetite for the rest of the day. 
The Esquimaux were surprised at our refusal of this offer, and ridi- 
culed our squeamishness ; and by way of convincing us what bad 
judges we were of good cheer, five of them fell to at the bowl, and 
with their two fore fingers very expeditiously transferred the con- 
tents to their own mouths ; and cleansing their fingers upon the 
earth, gave the vessel to one of the women. 

The whole village then assembled, better dressed than they had 
been on our first visit, and ranged themselves in a semicircle in front 
of us, preparatory to an exhibition of one of their dances, which 
merits a description, as it was the best of the kind we saw. A 
double ring was formed in front of us by men seated upon the grass, 
and by women and children in the background, who composed the 
orchestra. The music at the beginning was little better than a 
buzz of " Ungna-aya, Amna-aya !" — words which always constitute 



1826.] and beering's strait. 247 

the burthen of an Esquimaux song. The leader of the party, a strong 
athletic man, jumped into the ring and threw himself into various 
attitudes, which would have better become a pugilist than a per- 
former on the light fantastic toe ! As his motions became violent, 
he manifested his inspiration by loud exclamations of Ah ! Ah ! until 
he became exhausted, and withdrew, amidst shouts of approbation 
from all present, and the signal was given for new performers. Five 
younger men then leaped into the area, and again exhibited feats of 
activity, which, considering the heavy clothing that encumbered 
their limbs were very fair. A simple little girl about eight years of 
age, dressed for the occasion, joined the jumpers, but did not imitate 
their actions. Her part consisted in waving her arms and inclining 
her body from side to side. The poor little thing was so abashed 
that she did not even lift her head or open her eyes during the whole 
of her performance, and seemed glad when it was over, though she 
was not unmindful of the praise bestowed upon her exertions. 

The violent action of the male performers required that they 
should occasionally take breath, during which time the music was 
lowered ; but as soon as the ring was re-furnished it again became 
loud and animated. A grown-up female now formed one of the 
party, and appeared to be the prize of contention among several 
young men, who repeatedly endeavoured to ingratiate themselves 
with her, but she as often rejected their oners and waved them away. 
At last an old man, all but naked, jumped into the ring, and was 
beginning some indecent gesticulations, when his appearance not 
meeting with our approbation, he withdrew, and the performance hav- 
ing been wrought to its heighest pitch of noise and animation ceased. 

Such is the rude dance of these people, in which, as may be seen 
from the above description, there was neither elegance nor grace ; 
but on the contrary it was noisy, violent, and as barbarous as them- 
selves. The dancers were dressed for the occasion in their best 
clothes, which they considered indispensable, as they would not sell 
them to us until the performance was over. In addition to their 
usual costume, some had a kind of tippet of ermine and sable skins 
thrown over their shoulders, and others wore abandon their heads, 
with strips of skin suspended to it at every two inches, to the end of 
which were attached the nails of seals. 

When the dance was over, they presented us with dried salmon, 
and each person brought his bag of goods, which produced a brisk 
barter, with great fairness on all sides, and with a more than ordin- 
ary sense of propriety on theirs, in never raising or lowering their 
prices ; and by their testifying their disapprobation of it by a groan, 
when it was attempted by one of our party. But though so strict 
in this particular, they were not exempt from that failing so unac- 
countably innate in all uncivilized people, which they endeavoured 



248 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

to gratify in various ways, by engaging our attention at a moment 
when some of our trinkets were exposed to them for the purpose of 
selection. Suspecting their designs, however, we generally detect- 
ed their thefts, and immediately received back our goods, with a 
hearty laugh in addition. They understood making a good bargain 
quite as well as ourselves, and were very wary how they received 
our knives and hatchets, putting their metal to the test by hacking 
at them with their own. If they stood the blow, they were accept- 
ed ; but if, on the contrary, they were notched, they were refused. 
A singular way of deciding a bargain was resorted to by one of their 
party, almost equivalent to that of tossing up a coin. We had offer- 
ed an adze for a bundle of skins ; but the owner, who at first seem- 
ed satisfied with the bargain, upon reflection became doubtful wheth- 
er he would not be the looser by it ; and to decide the doubtful 
point he caught a small beetle, and set it at liberty upon the palm 
of his hand, anxiously watching which direction the insect should 
take. Finding it run towards him, he concluded the bargain to be 
disadvantageous to him, and took back his goods. 

On this day they admitted us to their habitations, and all restric- 
tions were removed, except that upon writing in our remark books, 
to which they had such an objection, that they refused us any infor- 
mation while they were open, and with great good-nature closed 
them, or if we persisted, they dodged their heads and made off. 

Our new acquaintances, amounting to twenty-five in number, had 
five tents, constructed with skins of sea-animals, strained upon poles ; 
and for floors they had some broad planks two feet in the clear. I 
was anxious to learn where they obtained these, knowing that they 
had themselves no means of reducing a tree to the form of a plank, 
but I could get no information on this point : in all probability they 
had been purchased from the Tschutschi, or the Russians. Each 
tent had its baidar, and there were two to spare, which were turned 
upside down, and afforded a convenient house for several dogs, re- 
sembling those of Baffin's Bay, which were strapped to logs of wood 
to prevent their straying away. In front of these baidars there 
were heaps of skins filled with oil and blubber, Sec, and near them 
some very strong nets full of dried salmon, suspended to frames 
made of drift wood : these frames also contained, upon stretchers, 
the intestines of whales, which are used for a variety of purposes, 
particularly for the kamlaikas, a sort of shirt which is put over their 
skin dresses in wet weather. 

More provident than the inhabitants of Melville Peninsula, these 
people had collected an immense store of provision,if intended only for 
the number of persons we saw. Besides a great many skins of oil, 
blubber, and blood, they had about three thousand pounds of dried 
fish. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 249 

On the first visit to this party, they constructed a chart of the 
coast upon the sand, of which I took very little notice at the time. 
To-day, however, they renewed their labour, and performed their 
work upon the sandy beach in a very ingenious and intelligible man- 
ner. The coastline was first marked out with a stick, and the dis- 
tances regulated by the days' journeys. The hills and ranges of 
mountains were next shown by elevations of sand or stone, and the 
islands represented by heaps of pebbles, their proportions being du- 
ly attended to. As the work proceeded, some of the bystanders 
occasionally suggested alterations, and I removed one of the Diomede 
Islands which was misplaced : this was at first objected to by the 
hyclrographer ; but one of the party recollecting that the islands 
were seen in one from Cape Prince of Wales, confirmed its new po- 
sition and made the mistake quite evident to the others, who seem- 
ed much surprised that we should have any knowledge of such 
things. When the mountains and the islands were erected, the vil- 
lages and fishing stations were marked by a number of sticks placed 
upright, in imitation of those which are put upon the coast wherev- 
er these people fix their abode. In time, we had a complete topo- 
graphical plan of the coast from Point Darby to Cape Krusenstern. 
In this extent of coast line they exhibited a harbour and a large riv- 
er situated to the southward of Cape Prince of Wales, of neither of' 
which we had any previous knowledge. The harbour communicat- 
ed with an inner basin, named Imaurook, which was very spacious, 
and where the water was fresh. The entrance to the outer one was 
so narrow, that two baidars could not paddle abreast of each other. 
This they explained by means of two pieces of wood, placed to- 
gether, and motioning with their hands that they were paddling. 
They then drew them along till they came to the channel, when 
they were obliged to follow one another, and, when through, they 
took up their position, as before. The river was between this har- 
bour and the cape, and by their description it wound among lofty 
mountains, and between high rocky cliffs, and extended further than 
any of the party had been able to trace in their baidars. Its name 
was Youp-nut, and its course must lie between the ranges of moun- 
tains, at the back of Cape Prince of Wales. At this last mention- 
ed cape, they placed a village, called Iden-noo ; and a little way in- 
land another, named Kink-a-ghee, which was their own winter res- 
idence. Beyond Imau-rook there was a bay, of which we have no 
knowledge, named I-art-so-rook. A point ^beyond this, which I 
took to be the entrance to Norton Sound, was the extent of their ge- 
ographical knowledge in that direction. 

To the Diomede Islands they gave the names of Noo-nar-boak ; 
Ignarlook, and Oo-ghe-eyak ; King's Island, Oo-ghe-a-book ; and 
Sledge Island, Ayak, It is singular that this island, which was 

32 



250 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [AllgUSt, 

named Sledge Island by captain Cook, from the circumstance of one 
of these implements being found upon it, should be called by a word 
signifying the same thing in the Esquimaux language. For East 
Cape they had no name, and they had no knowledge of any other 
part of the Asiatic coast. Neither Schismareff Bay nor the inlet 
in the Bay of Good Hope was delineated by them, though they were 
not ignorant of the former when it was pointed out to them. It has 
been supposed that these two inlets communicate, and that the Es- 
quimaux, who intimated to Kotzebue that a boat could proceed nine 
days up the latter and would then find the sea, alluded to this junc- 
tion ; but our rude hydrographers knew of no such communication ; 
which I think they certainly would, had it existed, as by pursuing that 
course they would have avoided a passage by sea or round Cape Es- 
penburg, which in deep-laden boats is attended with risk, from the 
chance of their not being able to land upon the coast. They would, 
at all events, have preferred an inland navigation had it not been 
very circuitous. 

We passed the greater part of the day with these intelligent peo- 
ple, who amused us the whole time in some way or other. The 
chief, previous to embarkation examined every part of our boat, and 
was highly pleased with the workmanship, but he seemed to regret 
that so much iron had been expended where thongs would have 
served as well. He was more astonished at the weight of a sound- 
ing lead than at any thing in the boat, never having felt any metal 
so heavy before ; iron pyrites being the heaviest mineral among this 
tribe. 

When we were about to embark, all the village assembled and 
took leave of us in the usual manner of the Esquimaux tribes ; and 
as it was probable we should never meet again, the parting, much 
to our annoyance, was very affectionate. A middle-aged man, 
who had taken the lead throughout, and who was probably 
their neaJcoa (or head-man) recommended us to depart from 
these regions ; but I signified my intention of waiting some time 
longer, and sleeping at least twenty nights where we were ; on 
which he shivered, and drew his arms in from his sleeves to 
apprise us of the approaching cold. I thanked him for his ad- 
vice, and making them each a parting present we took our leave. 
The next morning they embarked every thing, and paddled over to 
Escholtz Bay. After they were gone, we found some of our flour 
where the tents had stood, and a quantity of it secreted in a bush 
near the place ; so that their cautious behaviour with regard to our 
approachinging their tents the first day was no doubt occasioned by 
fear of this discovery ; and they afterwards secreted their plunder 
in a manner probably not likely to meet detection. 

Among this party there was a man so crippled that he went on 
all fours ; how it occurred we could not learn, but it was probably 



1826.] and beering's strait. 251 

in some hunting excursion, as several of his companions had deep 
scars, which they intimated had been inflicted by walrusses, which 
in the following year we found in great numbers off the coast. In 
this party we detected a difference of dialect from what we had 
heard in general, which made their objection to our writing in our 
books the more provoking, as it prevented us recording any of the 
variations, except in regard to the negative particle no, which with 
other parties was nag a, and with these aun-ga. The females were 
provided with broad iron bracelets, which we had not seen before ; 
and by their having four or five of them upon each wrist, it appear- 
ed that this metal, so precious with the tribes to the north ward, was 
with them less rare ; nevertheless it is very probable that they in- 
tended to appropriate to this purpose the iron hoops they had stol- 
en from us. 

I have said nothing of the dress or features of these people, as, 
with the exception of two of them, they so nearly resemble those 
already described as to render it unnecessary. These two persons, 
in the tattooing of the face, and in features, which more nearly re- 
sembled those of the Tschutschi, seemed to be allied to the tribes 
on the Asiatic coast, with whom they no doubt have an occa- 
sional intercourse. 

On the first of September our sportsmen succeeded in bagging 
several braces of ptarmigan and wild ducks ; but game was not so 
plentiful as might have been expected at this season of the year, in 
a country so abundantly provided with berries and so scantily inhab- 
ited. It was a pleasure to find that we could now pursue this and 
other occupations free from the annoyance of moskitos ; a nuisance 
which, whatever it may appear at first, is in reality not trifling. Dr. 
Richardson fixes the departure of these insects from Fort Franklin 
on the 11th of September: here, however, it takes place at least a 
fortnight earlier. 

On the 5th I visited the northern side ofEscholtz Bay, and found 
the country almost impassible from swamp, notwithstanding the sea- 
son was so far advanced. It seemed as if the peaty nature of 
the covering obstructed the drainage of the water, which the 
power of the. sun had let loose during the summer, and that 
the frozen state of the ground beneath prevented its escape in 
that direction. The power of the sun's rays upon the surface was 
still great, and large stones and fragments of rock that had been split 
by the frost were momentarily relinquishing their hold and falling 
down upon the beach. A thermometer exposed upon a piece of 
black cloth rose to 112°, and in the shade stood at 62°. On the 
side of the hill that sloped to the southward the willow and the birch 
grew to the height of eighteen feet, and formed so dense a wood 
that we could not penetrate it. The trees bordering upon the beach 



252 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

were quite dead, apparently in consequence of their bark having 
been rubbed through by the ice, which had been forced about nine 
feet above high-water mark, and had left there a steep ridge of sand 
and shingle. The berries were at this time in great perfection and 
abundance, and proved a most agreeable addition to the salt diet of 
the seamen, who were occasionally permitted to land and collect 
them. 

The cliffs on this side of Choris Peninsula were composed of a 
green-coloured mica slate, in which the mica predominated, and 
contained garnets, veins of felspar, enclosing chrystals of schorl, and 
had its fissures filled with quartz ; but I shall avoid saying any thing 
on geological subjects here. 

On the 6th our curiosity was excited by the appearance of two 
small boats under sail, which, when first seen through a light fog, 
were so different from the sails of the Esquimaux, that our imagin- 
ation, which had latterly converted every unusual appearance in the 
horizon into the boats of Captain Franklin, really led us to con- 
clude he had at length arrived ; but as they rounded the point, we 
clearly distinguished them to be two native baidars. We watched 
their landing, and were astonished at the rapidity with which they 
pitched their tents, settled themselves, and transferred to their new 
habitation the contents of the baidars, which they drew out of the 
sea and turned bottom upwards. On visiting their abode an hour 
after they landed, every thing was in as complete order as if they 
had been established there a month, and scarcely any thing was 
wanting to render their situation comfortable. No better idea could 
have been conveyed to us of the truly independent manner in which 
this tribe wander about from place to place, transporting their hous- 
es, and every thing necessary to their comfort, than that which was 
afforded on this occasion. Nor were we less struck with the num- 
ber of articles which their ingenuity finds the means of disposing in 
their boats, and which, had we not seen them disembarked, we 
should have doubted the possibility of their having been crammed 
into them. From two of these they landed fourteen persons, eight 
tent poles, forty deer skins, two kyacks, many hundred weight of 
fish, numerous skins of oil, earthen jars for cooking, two living 
foxes, ten large dogs, bundles of lances, harpoons, bows and arrows, 
a quantity of whalebone, skins full of clothing, some immense nets, 
made of hide, for taking small whales and porpoises, eight broad 
blanks, masts, sails, paddles, &c, besides sea-horse hides and teeth, 
and a variety of nameless articles always to be found among the 
Esquimaux. 

They received us in the most friendly and open manner, and their 
conduct throughout was so different from that of their predecessors, 
that had we had no proof of the latter being guilty of the theft on 



1826.] and beering's strait. 253 

our flour, this difference of conduct would have afforded a strong 
presumption against them. The party consisted of two families, 
each of which had its distinct property, tents, baidar, &c. They 
were in feature and language nearly connected with the King-a-ghee 
party, and from what they told us, resided near them ; but to judge 
from their dresses and establishment they were of much lower con- 
dition. However, the women had the same kind of beads in their 
ears, and sewn upon their dresses, and had evidently been to the 
same market. We remarked, however, in two of the young ladies 
a custom which, when first discovered, created considerable laugh- 
ter. When they moved, several bells were set ringing, and, on ex- 
amining their persons, we discovered that they had each three or 
four of these instruments under their clothes, suspended to their 
waists, hips, and one even lower down, which was about the size of 
a dustman's bell, but without a clapper. Whether they had dis- 
posed of them in this manner as charms, or through fear, it was im- 
possible to say ; but by their polished surface, and the manner in 
which they were suspended, they appeared to have long occupied 
these places. They were certainly not hung there for convenience, 
as the large one, in particular, must have materially incommoded the 
ladies in their walking. One of our party suggested that this large 
bell might, perhaps, be appropriated to the performance of a cere- 
mony mentioned by Muller, in his " Voyages from Asia to Amer- 
ica," &c. p. 28., where he states that the bond of friendship or en- 
mity depends upon a guest rinsing his mouth with the contents of 
the cup, which formed an indispensable part of a very singular cus- 
tom among the Tschutachi, ihe people of Cashemir, and some other 
countries.* 

Among other things, this party had small bags of resin, which 
appeared to be the natural exudation of the pine. From their con- 
stantly chewing it, it did not seem difficult to be had ; and as no trees, 
of this nature, that we were acquainted with, grew upon the coas^ 
we were anxious to learn whence they had procured it, but we could 
not make our acquaintances understand our wishes. 

An old lady, who was the mother of the two girls with the bells, 
invited me into her tent, where I found her daughters seated amidst 
a variety of pots and pans, containing the most unsavoury messes, 
highly repugnant to both the sight and smell of a European, though 
not at all so to the Esquimaux. These people are in the habit of 
collecting certain fluids for the purposes of tanning ; and that, judg- 
ing from what took place in the tent, in the most open manner, in 
the presence of all the family. 

The old matron was extremely good-natnred, lively, and loqua- 

* M. Paulus venetus, Witsen, and Trigaut. 



254 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

cious ; and took great pleasure in telling us the name of every- 
thing, by which she proved more useful than any of our former visit- 
ers ; and had she but allowed us time to write down one word be- 
fore she furnished another, we should have greatly extended our 
vocabularies ; but it appeared to her, no doubt, that we could write 
as fast as she could dictate, and that the greater number of words 
she supplied, the more thankful we should be. So far from this 
party having any objection to our books, to which the former one 
had manifested the greatest repugnance, they took pleasure in see- 
ing them, and were very attentive to the manner in which every 
thing was committed to paper. 

The daughters were fat good-looking girls ; the eldest, about 
thirteen years of age, was marked upon the chin with a single blue 
line ; but the other, about ten, was without any tattooing. I made 
a sketch of the eldest girl, very much to the satisfaction of the 
mother, who was so interested in having her daughter's picture, and 
so impatient to see it finished, that she snatched away the paper sev- 
eral times to observe the progress I was making. The father entered 
the tent while this was going forward, and observing what I was 
about, called to his son to bring him a piece of board that was lying 
outside the tent, and to scrape it clean, which indeed was very ne- 
cessary. Having procured a piece of plumbago from his wife, he 
seated himself upon a heap of skins, threw his legs across, and very 
good-humouredly commenced a portrait of me, aping my manner 
and tracing every feature with the most affected care, whimsically- 
applying his finger to the point of his pencil instead of a penknife, 
to the great diversion of his wife and daughters. By the time I had 
finished my sketch, he had executed his, but with the omission of 
the hat, which, as he never wore one himself, he had entirely for- 
gotten ; and he was extremely puzzled to know how to place it up- 
on the head he had drawn. " 

On meeting with the Esquimaux, after the first salutation is over 
an exchange of goods invariably ensues, if the party have any thing 
to sell, which is almost always the case ; and we were no sooner 
seated in the tent than the old lady produced several bags, from 
which she drew forth various skins, ornamental parts of the dress of 
her tribe, and small ivory dolls, allowing us to purchase whatever 
we liked. Our articles of barter were necklaces of blue beads, 
brooches, and cutlery, which no sooner came into the possession of 
our hostess than they were transferred to a stone vessel half filled 
with train-oil, where they underwent an Esquimaux purification. 

We found amongst this party a small Russian coin of the Empress 
Catherine, and the head of a halberd, which had been converted 
into a knife : both of which were evidence of the communication 
that must exist between their tribe and those of the Asiatic coasts 
opposite. 



1826.] 



AND BEERING S STRAIT. 



255 



We returned on board with a boat full of dried salmon, and the 
next day the party visited the ship. Notwithstanding the friend- 
ly treatment they had experienced the day before, it required much 
persuasion to induce them to come upon deck; and even when 
some of them were prevailed upon to do so, they took the precaution 
of leaving with their comrades in the boat whatever valuable articles 
they had about their persons. They were shown every thing in the 
ship most likely to interest them, but very few objects engaged them 
long, and they passed by some that were of the greatest interest, to 
bestow their attention upon others which to us were of none, thus 
showing the necessity of fully understanding the nature of any thing 
before the mind can properly appreciate its value. The sail-maker 
sewing a canvass bag, and the chain cable, were two of the objects 
which most engaged their attention ; the former from its being an 
occupation they had themselves often been engaged in ; and the 
latter as exhibiting to them the result of prodigious labour, as they 
would naturally conclude that our chains — though so much larger 
and of so much harder a material than their own — were made in 
the same manner. The industry and ingenuity of the Esquimaux 
are, however, displayed in nothing more than in the fabrication of 
chains, two or three of which we met with cut out of a solid piece 
of ivory. On showing these people the plates of natural history in 
Rees's Cyclopaedia, they were far more intelligent than might have 
been expected from the difficulty that naturally occurs to uncivilized 
people in divesting their minds of the comparative size of the living 
animal and its picture. But the Esquimaux are very superior in 
this respect to the South Sea Islanders, and immediately recognized 
every animal they were acquainted with that happened to be in the 
book, and supplied me with the following list of them : — 



English Names 


Esquimaux Names. 


English Names. 


Esquimaux Names. 


Squirrel 


Tsey-kereck. 


Porpoise 


Agh-bee-zeeak. 


Fox 


Kiock-toot. 


Dog 


Koo-neak. 


Musk rat 


Paoona. 


Owl 


Igna-zee-wyuck 


Rein-deer 


Tootoot. 


Falcon 


Kje-goo-ut. 


Musk ox 


Mign-ugne. 


Grouse 


A-hag-ghi-uck. 


White bear 


Tsu-nark. 


Snipe 


Nuck-too-o-lit, 


Walrus 


Ei-bwo-ak. 


Vulture 


Keegli-aght. 


Seal 


Kasi-goo-ak. 


Swan 


Tadi-dracht. 


Otter 


Te-ghe-ak-book. 


Duck 


Eiv-uck. 


Porcupine 


Igla-koo-sok. 


Puffin 


Kooli-nockt. 


Mouse 


Koobla-ook. 


Plover 


Tud-glict. 


Beaver 


Ka-boo-ek. 


Pelican 


Peebli-ark-took, 


Hare 


Oo-good-ligh. 


Salmon 


Ish-allook. 


Goat 


Ip-na-uck. 


Flounder 


Ek-anee-luk. 



256 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

Sheep Ok-shulk. Guard fish Iz-nee-a-ook. 

Bull (musk T)Moong-mak. Crab Edloo-azrey-uk. 

White horse Izoo-kar-uck. Shrimp Nowd-lennok. 

Narwhal Tse-doo-ak. Lobster Poo-cce-o-tuk. 

Whale Ah-ow-look. Butterfly Tar-dle-oot-zuk . 

Among which there are three animals — the goat, the sheep, and the 
horse — hitherto unknown upon this coast : probably the sheep may 
refer to the argali, which has been seen near Cook's River. By 
the time I had collected these names, our visiters had become im- 
patient to join their comrades, who in like manner, finding them a 
long time absent, had beeome equally anxious on their account, and 
had quitted the boat in search of them, and both parties met upon 
deck, to their mutual satisfaction. Previous to their going away 
we made them several useful presents of axes, knives, combs, &c. 
for which they seemed thankful, and offered in return a few skins, 
pointing at the same time to the south side of the sound, where their 
habitations probably were, intimating that if we went there they 
would give us more. They then pushed off their baidars, rested 
on their paddles for a minute, and made off as fast as they could, to 
give us an idea of the swiftness of their boat, which seems to be a 
favourite practice. 

Next day we revisited their abode, and found that the price of 
every article had been raised several hundred per cent., and that 
nothing of reasonable value would induce them to part with either 
bows or arrows ; so that our generosity of the preceding day had not 
left any durable impression. 

Every visit to these parties furnished some new insight into their 
manners, though it was but trifling : on this occasion we witnessed 
a smoking party in which the women and children partook equally 
with the men. The pipe used on this occasion was small, and would 
contain no more tobacco than could be consumed at a whiff. To 
these instruments there were attached a pricker and a strip of dog's 
skin, from the last of which they tore off a few hairs, and placed 
them at the bottom of the bowl of the pipe to prevent the tobacco, 
which was chopped up very fine, being drawn into the mouth with 
smoke. The tobacco which they used had pieces of wood cut up 
fine with it, a custom which is no doubt derived from the Tschutschi, 
who use the bark of the birch-tree in this manner, and imagine it 
improves the quality of the herb.* The pipe being charged with 
about a pinch of this material, the senior person present took his 
whiff and passed the empty pipe to the next, who replenished it and 
passed it on, each person in his turn inflating himself to the fullest 

* Pobell's Travels in Siberia, 



1826.] and beering's strait, 257 

extent, and gradually dissipating the fumes through the nostrils. 
The pungency of the smoke, and the time necessary to hold the 
breath, occasioned considerable coughing with some of the party, 
but they nevertheless appeared greatly to enjoy the feast. 

On the 8th, Spafarief Bay, which had been but little explored 
by Captain Kotzebue, underwent a satisfactory examination, and 
was found to terminate in a small creek navigable a very short dis- 
tance, and that by boats only. Its whole extent inland is about three 
miles, when it separates into a number of small branches communi- 
cating with several lakes, which, in the spring, no doubt, discharge 
a large quantity of fresh water into the sound, though at this dry 
season of the year they were of inconsiderable size. A little to the 
northward of the creek there is a pointed hill just 640 feet high by 
measurement, from whence we surveyed the surrounding country, 
and found that this side of the sound also was covered with a deep 
swampy moss. The summit of this hill, and indeed of all the others 
that were ascended in the sound, was the only part destitute of this 
covering. The beach was strewed with a great quantity of drift 
wood, some of which was in a very perfect state, and appeared to 
have been recently split with wedges by the natives, who had car- 
ried away large portions of the trunks to make their bows, arrows, 
and fishing implements. They were all pine-trees except one, which 
by the bark appeared to be a silver birch. 

On the 10th we had the satisfaction to see the barge coming down 
to us under a press of canvass, and the most lively expectations 
were formed until she approached near enough to discover that the 
appointed signal of success was wanting at her mast-head. Though 
unfortunate in accomplishing what we most anxiously desired, her 
voyage was attended with advantage. We had the satisfaction to 
learn from her commander when he came on board that he had dis- 
covered a large extent of coast beyond the extreme cape which we 
had seen from the mast-head of the ship on the 15th ultimo, and 
which I had named after Captain Franklin ; and had proceeded to 
the latitude of 71° 23' 31". N. and to 156° 21' 30". W., where the 
coast formed a low narrow neck beyond which it was impossible to 
proceed to the eastward, in consequence of the ice being attached 
to the land, and extending along the horizon to the northward. 

The boat had not been at this point many hours, before the wind 
changed to south-west, and set the whole body of ice in motion to- 
ward the land. This was a case in which Mr. Elson had received 
strict orders to return immediately, and he accordingly began to re- 
trace his route ; but in so doing he found that, in addition to the dis- 
advantage of a contrary wind he had to contend with a current run- 
ning to the north-east at the rate of three miles and a half an 
hour, and with large pieces of floating ice which he found it very diffi- 

33 



258 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

cult to avoid, until he was at last obliged to anchor to prevent being 
carried back. It was not long before he was so closely beset in the 
ice, that no clear water could be seen in any direction from the hills ; 
and the ice continuing to press against the shore, his vessel was driv- 
en upon the beach, and there left upon her broadside in a most 
helpless condition ; and to add to his cheerless prospect, the disposi- 
tion of the natives, whom he had found to increase in numbers as 
he advanced to the northward, was of very doubtful character. At 
Point Barrow, where they were extremely numerous, their over- 
bearing behaviour, and the thefts they openly practiced, left no 
doubt of what would be the fate of his little crew in the event of its 
falling into their power. They were in this dilemma several days, 
during which every endeavour was made to extricate the vessel, 
but without effect ; and Mr. Elson contemplated sinking her secretly 
in a lake that was near, to prevent her falling into the hands of the 
Esquimaux, and then making his way along the coast in a baidar, 
which he had no doubt he should be able to purchase from the na- 
tives. At length, however, a change of wind loosened the ice ; and 
after considerable labour and toil, in which the personal strength of 
the officers was united to that of the seamen, our shipmates fortu- 
nately succeeded in affecting their escape. 

The farthest tongue of land which they reached is conspicuous as 
being the most northerly point yet discovered on the continent of 
America ; and I named it Point Barrow, to mark the progress of 
northern discovery on each side the American continent which has 
been so perseveringly advocated by that distinguished member of 
our naval administration. It lies 126 miles to the north-east of Icy 
Cape, and is only 146 miles from the extreme of Captain Franklin's 
discoveries in his progress westward from the Mackenzie River. 
The bay which appeared to be formed to the eastward of this point 
I named Elson's Bay, in compliment to the officer in command of 
the barge ; and the extreme point of our discoveries after Captain 
Franklin, the commander of the land expedition. I could have 
wished that this point had been marked by some conspicuous head- 
land worthy of the name bestowed upon it ; but my hope is that 
the officer who may be so fortunate as to extend our discoveries will 
do him the justice to transfer his name to the first object beyond it 
more deserving of the honour. To the nearest conspicuous object 
to the southward of Point Barrow I attached the name of Smyth, in 
compliment to the second officer of the barge ; and to the points 
and inlets to the southward, I with pleasure affixed the names of the 
officers of the ship, whose merits entitled them to this distinction. 

I will no longer anticipate the journal of these interesting proceed- 
ings, in which are recorded several particulars relating to the natives, 
the currents, and the geography of these regions ; and by which it 



1826.] and beering's strait. 259 

is evident that the officers and crew acquitted themselves in the most 
persevering and zealous manner, equally honourable to themselves 
and to their country. I shall merely remark upon the facts which 
the journal sets forth, that it was fortunate the ship did not continue 
near the ice, as she would have been unable to beat successfully 
against the current, and the violence of the gale would probably 
have either entangled her amongst the ice, or have driven her on 
shore. 

The narrative was kept by Mr. Smyth, under the superintendence 
of his commander, whose more important duties of surveying pre- 
vented his recording more than the necessary detail of a log-book. 
In publishing it I have given the most important parts of it in Mr. 
Smyth's own words, and have only compressed the matter where it 
could be done with propriety and advantage. 



260 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Interesting- Narrative of the Boat Expedition — Point Barrow — Near Approach to 
Captain Franklin — Beset by the Ice — Perilous Situation and fortunate Release of 
the Barge — Terrific Gale — Rejoin the Ship — Further Examination of Kotzebue 
Sound — Discover Buckland River — Mammoth Bones — Ice Formation — Approach 
of Winter obliges the Ship to quit the Sound — Repass Beering's Strait — Gale— 
Proceed to the Southward — Future Plans — Make St. Paul's Island — Aleutian Is- 
lands — Pass through Oonemak Channel — Arrive off St. Francisco in California, 



NARRATIVE OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE BARGE OF H. M. SHIP 
BLOSSOM IN Q.UEST OF CAPTAIN FRANKLIN, AND TO EXPLORE 
THE COAST N, E, QF ICY CAPE, 

After the signal was made by the Blossom on the night of the 
17th of August, to carry orders into execution, the barge stood in- 
shore, and the next morning was off Icy Cape, Having a contrary 
wind, she beat up along the land to the N. E,, and shortly after 
noon the officers landed opposite a village of yourts, which was found 
to be deserted, and the houses to be closed up for the summer. 
These habitations closely resembled those of the Esquimaux, which 
have been already described. The country here was covered with 
a thick peat, which retained the water and made it very swampy 
and almost impassable. Upon the beach there was found an abun- 
dance of coal and drift-wood. Working to the north-eastward from 
this village, they discovered a shoal with only eight feet water upon 
it lying about 150 yards from the beach, which having deep water 
within it, offered a security against the ice in the event of its closing 
the shore, and they did not fail to bear in mind the advantage it 
might afford in a moment of necessity. About midnight they were 
visited by four baidars containing about sixty persons, from whom 
they expected to obtain a supply of venison, as this kind of provis- 
ion is, generally speaking, abundant to the northward of Cape Lis- 
burn ; but being disappointed, they continued their progress along 
the land. On the morning of the 20th there was a fall of snow, 



1826.] and beering's strait. 261 

and the weather turned very cold. They found themselves off a 
village, and were visited by several baidars, the crews of which were 
very anxious to get alongside the barge, and in so doing one of the 
baidars was upset. An Esquimaux dress is very ill adapted to 
aquatic exercises, and persons acquainted with it would think there 
was considerable danger in being plunged into the sea thus habited ; 
but the natives in the other baidars did not seem to reflect upon these 
consequences, and laughed most immoderately at the accident ; they, 
however, went to the assistance of their friends, and rescued them 
all. It must have been a cold dip for these people, as the rigging 
and masts were partially covered with ice. 

About noon they landed to procure observations, and found the lati- 
tude of this part of the coast to be 70° 43' 47" N., and longitude from 
the bearings ofWainwright Inlet, 159° 46' W. Here a post was erect- 
ed for Capt. Franklin, on which the following inscription was painted: 
" Blossom's tender, Sunday, August 20th, latitude 70° 43' N., bound 
alon the coast to the N. E. If Captain Franklin should pass this 
place, he will probably leave some memorandum." The coast was 
here low, and more dry than that in the vicinity of Wainwright In- 
let, with a beach of sand and gravel mixed, upon which there was 
an abundance of coal and drift-wood. In the the evening they 
passed several yourts, but saw no inhabitants until nine o'clock, when 
several came off and annoyed the crew with their importunities and 
disorderly conduct. The coast was here more populous than any 
where to the southward, which their visiters probably thought a 
good protection against the small foroe of our boat, and they were 
not easily driven away. 

On the 21st they arrived off a chain of sandy islands lying some 
distance from the main land, which I have distinguished by the name 
of the Sea Horse Islands. As the wind was light and baffling, they 
landed upon several of these for observation ; and tracking the boat 
along the shore, at eight in the evening they arrived at the point to 
which I transferred the name of Captain Franklin, from the cliff on 
the main land to which I had originally given that name, as I found 
by the discoveries of Mr. Elson that the cliff was not actually the 
coast line. From Cape Franklin, the coast, still consisting of a 
chain of sandy islands lying off the main land, turned to the south- 
east and united with the main land, forming a bay, on which I be- 
stowed the name of my first lieutenant, Mr. Peard. Two posts 
were found erected on Cape Franklin, upon which another notice 
was painted. The surface of the beach was a fine sand, but by 
digging a few inches down it was mixed with coal : there was here 
also, as at their former station, a great quantity of drift-wood. Off 
these islands they were visited by several baidars, the people in 
which behaved in a very disorderly manner, attempted several de^ 



262 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

predations, and even cut a piece out of one of the sails of the boat, 
while it was lying upon the gunwale. Finding the natives inclined 
to part with one of their baidars, she was purchased for two hatch- 
ets, under the impression that she might be useful to the boat here- 
after. Having run twenty-nine miles along the coast to the N. E., 
they again landed, and obtained some lunar observations. The coats 
here assumed a different aspect, and consisted of clay cliffs, about 
fifty feet high, and presented an ice formation resembling that which 
has been described in Escholtz Bay. The interior of the country 
was flat, and only partially covered with snow. A short distance to 
the northward of them a river discharged itself into a lake within 
the shingly beach, which was about twenty yards wide, and the wa- 
ter being perfectly 1 fresh, they obtained a supply, and pursued their 
course to the north-east. Their latitude was 70° 58' 43" N.; and 
no ice had as yet been seen, even from the hills. This excited the 
greatest hopes in our adventurous shipmates, who advanced quite 
elated at the prospect ; but they had not proceeded many miles fur- 
ther before some bergs were seen in the offing nearly in the same 
parallel in which the margin of the ice had been found by the ship ; 
and from the number of bergs increasing as they advanced, the san- 
guine expectations in which they had indulged gradually diminished. 
These bergs were seen off a point of land to which I gave the name 
of Smyth, in compliment to the officer who accompanied the boat 
expedition, and very deservedly obtained his promotion for that 
service. In the course of their run they passed a village, where 
the inhabitants, seeing them so near, came out of their yourts, and 
men, women, children, and dogs set up a loud hallooing until they 
were gone. Upon Cape Smyth there was also a village, the inhab- 
itants of which accosted them with the same hooting noises as before. 

Advancing to the northward with the wind off the land, they saw 
the main body of ice about seven miles distant to the westward, 
and were much encumbered by the icebergs, which they could only 
avoid by repeatedly altering the course. The land from Cape 
Smyth, which was about forty-five feet in height, sloped gradually to 
the northward, and terminated in a low point which has been named 
Point Barrow. From the rapidity with which the boat passed the 
land, there appears to have been a current setting to the north-east. 
The water, about half a mile from the cape, was between six and 
seven fathoms deep. 

Wednesday, 23rd Aug. "Arriving about two a. m. off the low 
point, we found it much encumbered with ice, and the current set- 
ting N. W. (mag.) between three and four miles an hour. Opening 
the prospect on its eastern side, the view was obstructed by a bar- 
rier of ice which appeared to join with the land. This barrier 
seemed high ; but as there was much refraction, in this we might 



1826.] and beering's strait. 263 

possibly have been deceived. The weather assuming a very un- 
settled appearance in the offing, (and the S. E. breeze dying away,) 
we had every reason to expect the wind from the westward ; and 
knowing the ice to extend as far south as 71°, the consequences that 
would attend such a shift were so evident, that we judged it prudent 
not to attempt penetrating any farther, especially in this advanced 
state of the season. Accordingly we anchored within the eighth of 
a mile of the point, under shelter of an iceberg about fourteen feet 
high, and from fifty to sixty feet in length, that had grounded in 
four fathoms water. On the eastern side of the point there was a 
village, larger than any we had before seen, consisting entirely of 
yourts. The natives, on seeing us anchor, came down opposite the 
boat in great numbers, but seemed very doubtful whether to treat us 
as friends or enemies. We made signs of friendship to them ; and 
a couple of baidars reluctantly ventured off and accepted a few beads 
and some tobacco, which on their return to the shore induced sev- 
eral others to visit us. These people were clothed like the Esqui- 
maux we had seen on the other parts of the coast : their imple- 
ments were also the same, except that we thought they were more 
particular in constructing the bow, the spring of which was strength- 
ened with whalebone. 

Many of the men wore, as lip ornaments, slabs of bone and stone 
in an oblong shape, about three inches in length and one in breadth. 
They were much more daring than any people we had before seen, 
and attempted many thefts in the most open manner. Tobacco was 
the most marketable article ; but excepting their implements, orna- 
ments, or dress, they had nothing worth purchasing. They were 
exceedingly difficult to please, and not at all satisfied with what was 
given in exchange, insisting, after a bargain had been transacted, on 
having more for their articles. One of them who came alongside in 
a caiack, having obtained some tobacco that was offered for a lance, 
was resolute in not delivering up either ; and Mr. Elson considering 
that if such conduct was tamely submitted to they would be still 
more inclined to impose, endeavoured by threats to regain the to- 
bacco, but without effect. More boats coming off, and proving by 
their audacity equally troublesome, we thought it would be most 
advantageous to keep the barge under sail, which in all probability 
would prevent any thing serious occurring. Before weighing, the 
baidar was broken up, as her weight would materially impede our 
progress in working to windward on our return ; the hides were tak- 
en as a covering for the deck, and the frame-work destroyed for fire- 
wood. During the time we were at anchor, the wind shifted to S. 
W., and we stood to the N. W. with a light breeze ; but finding 
ourselves drifting rapidly to the northward by current, we were 
again obliged to anchor, Point Barrow bearing S. by E. 1-2 E. two 



264 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

and a half miles. Here we remained till eight o'clock. This point 
is the termination to a spit of land, which on examination from the 
boat's mast-head seemed to jut out several miles from the more reg- 
ular coast line. The width of the neck did not exceed a mile and 
a half, and apparently in some places less. The extremity was 
broader than any other part, had several small lakes of water on it, 
which were frozen over, and the village before spoken of is situated 
on its eastern shore. The eastern side of this neck trended in a S. 
S. W. (mag.) direction until it became lost to the eye being joined 
with a body of ice that encircled the horizon in the N. E. This 
union scarcely left us room to hazard an opinion which direction it 
afterwards took ; but from the circumstance of the currant setting at 
the rate of three miles and a half an hour N. E. (true), and the ice 
all drifting to that quarter, we were induced to conjecture that its 
continuation led well to the eastward. 

It was our original intention to have remained at the point till 
noon, landed, and obtained if possible all the necessary observations, 
besides depositing instructions for Captain Franklin ; but the char- 
acter of the natives entirely frustrated our plans, and obliged us, to 
avoid an open rupture, to quit the anchorage — a circumstance we 
greatly regretted, as we had anticipated gathering much information 
respecting the coast to the eastward, and on other points of import- 
ance. The nights had hitherto been beautifully clear and fine, and 
we were very sanguine of obtaining a number of lunar distances 
with the sun, being the only means we had of ascertaining correctly 
our farthest easting, as the patent log, we knew, from the strength 
of current, could in no way be depended on. At nine we weighed, 
and, stemming the current, stood in for the low point, off which 
there was an iceberg aground, on which we resolved to wait till 
noon for ihe latitude. On our way thither we passed another ex- 
tensive iceberg aground in six fathoms water, and not more than 
eight or ten feet above the surface. At noon we were favoured 
with a clear sun, and determined our lattitude to be 71° 24' 59'' N. 
Lunar anchorage bearing from the place of observation one mile 
north (true),- and the north-eastern part of Point Barrow S. E. 3-4 
E. (mag.) 1 1-2'. From which the position of Point Barrow, the 
most northern part known of the American continent, is latitude 
71° 23' 31" N., longitude 156° 21' 30" W. The azimuth sights 
made the variation 41° east. 

The breeze still continuing light from the S. E. (although the 
clouds were approaching from the westward), we made all sail to 
the southward, and with great reluctance left this remarkable point 
without being able to leave any traces of our having visited it for 
Captain Franklin. The wind about one p. m. began gradually to 
fall, and at two it was perfectly calm. Unfortunately we were now 



1826.] AND BEERINC's STRAIT. 265 

in too much water to anchor, and were, without the possibility of 
helping it, being set to the N. E. by the current at the rate of three 
miles and a half an hour. By four o'clock we had lost all we had 
made during the day, with a prospect, if it continued calm, of being 
drifted quite off the land — an accident that, had it occurred, would 
have placed our little vessel in a very serious situation. We were 
not, however, long in this state of suspense ; for an air came again 
from the eastward, which strengthening a little, and with the boat 
ahead towing, we made good progress towards the land, where, if it 
once more fell calm, we could retain our position with the anchor. 
When we had by towing and pulling got within a mile of the beach 
(and about two miles west of the point), nineteen of the natives came 
down -opposite us armed with bows, arrows, and spears, and im- 
agining that it was our intention to land, motioned us to keep off, 
and seemed quite prepared for hostilities. Some of them were strip- 
ped almost naked. They preserved a greater silence than we found 
customary among them, one only speaking at a time, and apparently 
interrogating us. Notwithstanding this show of resistance, we still 
advanced nearer to the shore, as being more out of the current and 
favourable to our views, at the same time having the arms in read- 
iness in case of an attack. 

When within about thirty yards of the beach, we lost the wind, 
and continued pulling and towing along shore, the natives walking 
abreast of us upon the beach. At eight p. m. we passed a village 
of eight tents and four boats, but saw neither women nor children. 
Whilst approaching this village, we perceived the men hauling their 
baidars higher up on the beach, fearful, as we supposed, that we 
should molest them. Their dogs, as usual, set up a most abomina- 
ble yelling. About eleven our pedestrians began to lag, and shortly 
after made a general halt, watched us for a little while, and then turned 
back. At midnight we reached Cape Smyth, and considering our- 
selves tolerably well secure from the ice (not having seen any until 
our arrival off this point on the evening before,) and the crew being 
much tired, we anchored, hoping that a few hours would bring a 
breeze — not caring from which quarter, as we felt confident that, 
before the ice could approach near enough to block us, we should 
be able to reach the Sea Horse Islands, where we made certain of 
being clear. The night dark and cloudy. 

Thursday, 24th August. At two a. m., a fine breeze rising at 
E. S. E.,we weighed, but found the current so strong against us 
that we lost ground and anchored again : the current setting north 
(mag.) three miles and a half an hour. At three we were alarmed 
at the sudden appearance of the ice, which was drifting fast down 
on us. No time was to be lost. The crew were instantly sent on 
shore with a warp. We got up the anchor, and hauled within eight 

34 



266 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [AugllSt, 

or ten yards of the beach, it being steep enough to admit our pro- 
ceeding thus close. We now began tracking the boat along, and 
proceeded for a short time without much difficulty ; but the ice in- 
creasing fast, and the pieces getting larger, she received some vio- 
lent blows. The main body nearing the shore to the distance of 
about 100 yards left this space less incumbered, and occasioned an 
increase in the rapidity of the current one knot an hour. To add 
to our perplexities, at five the wind freshened up at south (directly 
against us), and we also had the mortification to observe the ice 
speedily connecting with the beach, scarcely leaving an open space 
visible. Nothing now but the greatest exertion could extricate the 
boat ; and the crew, willing to make the most of every trifling ad- 
vantage, gave a hearty cheer, and forced her through thick and 
heavy ice until we rounded a projecting point that had hitherto ob- 
structed our view. This, however, could only be accomplished with 
considerable labour and risk ; for here, as in many other places, we 
had to track-line up cliffs, frequently covered with hard snow and ice, 
which, hanging a considerable distance over the water, prevented the 
possibility of getting round beneath. The rope was then obliged to 
be thrown down, and the upper end held fast, until the crew hauled 
themselves up one by one ; and in this manner we continued along the 
cliff until the beach again made its appearance. But here even we 
found it no easy task to walk, on account of small loose shingle, in 
which we often sunk to the knees ; and having the weight of the 
boat at the same time, it became excessively fatiguing. 

On opening the prospect south of this point, our spirits were 
greatly enlivened at perceiving the channel clear for a long way, 
and hoping that by constant tracking we should do much towards 
getting clear of the ice, we divided the crew into two parties, gave 
each man a dram, and sent one division on board to rest, whilst the 
other laboured at the line. About eight a. m. the wind freshened so 
heavily against us, that we contemplated whether or not it would 
be advantageous to make a trial with the canvass, particularly as 
the main body of ice was a little more distant from the shore ; but 
remembering our position at two p. m. on the preceding day, we 
agreed that the current was too strong, and that if we should get 
encircled by the ice we must inevitably be separated from the shore, 
carried back with the stream, or forced to sea. The difficulty of 
drawing the boat against so strong a wind and current became now 
very great, and we began to seek a place where she might be laid 
free of the ice. But the straight line of coast offered us no pros- 
pect of such an asylum ; we therefore determined to prosecute our 
first intention of persevering in our endeavours as long as possible. 
By eleven a. m. we reached a village of nine tents, and trusted 
through the influence of tobacco, beads, &tc. to receive some assis- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 267 

tance from the inhabitants. Two of them approached us at first 
with some diffidence ; but Mr. Elson throwing the presents on shore, 
and myself going to meet them, after much gesticulation denoting 
peaceable intentions, we joined company. The ratification of rub- 
bing noses and cheeks being over, a leaf of tobacco given to each 
soon gained their confidence. One of them, an old man, seemed 
very thankful for his present, offering me any part of his garment as 
a reimbursement, which I declined accepting. Seeing so friendly 
an interview, several more ventured towards us ; and learning from 
their companions the treasures I possessed, were very eager to ob- 
tain some. By a few signs I easily made them understand that their 
assistance at the track-line would be amply rewarded. Six or seven 
directly took hold of the rope ; and our people relaxing a little in 
their exertions, though continuing at the line, we proceeded along 
gaily i but I was frequently obliged to have recourse to the presents 
to keep them pulling. We had not passed the tents more than half 
a mile when a new and a very serious difficulty presented itself — 
the mouth of a river into which the current set with great velocity, 
carrying with it large masses of ice. After many attempts we suc- 
ceeded in getting a line across ; but had- no sooner accomplished it, 
than it broke, and our repeated trials for a long time were unsuc- 
cessful. Eventually we managed to overcome this obstacle, and 
had just got the boat to the opposite shore when she grounded ; 
and the current setting strong against her, all our exertions to get 
her afloat were ineffectual. A few minutes before this accident, 
Mr. Elson, who was on board, hailed me, saying that the channel 
after crossing the river looked more favourable than ever. Cheered 
by this report, we worked harder ; but so quick was the ice in its 
movement, that in a few moments we were enclosed on all sides. 
Nothing more towards freeing the boat could now be done, there- 
fore we carried out her anchors to the shore and secured her, con- 
templating a retreat by land should we not be so fortunate as to get 
clear. On looking to the southward, we found the ice perfectly 
compact, and connected with the shore, not leaving visible a space 
of water three yards in diameter. The crew now enjoyed a little 
rest ; and Mr. Elson decided that we should remain by the boat 
until the 1st of September, on which day, should no chance appear 
of liberating her, we were to start by land for Kotzebue Sound. 

Some large ice grounding to windward partially sheltered the boat ; 
but as her situation was on the southern bank of the entrance to the 
the river, the current swept with force round, bringing occasionally 
some heavy ice in contact with the boat, the violence of which hove 
her into a foot and a half less water than she drew ; and the sand 
soon formed a bank on the outside, leaving her quite bedded. At 
six p. m. the current had almost subsided. A most cheerless pros- 



268 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [AtlgUSt, 

pect presented itself, the whole sea being covered with ice sufficient- 
ly compact to walk upon ; and the clouds becoming heavy and fly- 
ing swiftly from the S. W., offered not the smallest hope of our 
escape. The water had likewise fallen a foot and a half, leaving 
the boat nearly dry. Our feeliugs now were indescribable, as it ap- 
peared very evident that we should be obliged to abandon our little 
vessel, and perform the journey to Chamisso Island on foot — an 
undertaking we were by no means adequate to, and which the ad- 
vanced state of the season would render extremely fatiguing. At 
eight we ascended a hill, but saw not the slightest chance of an open- 
ing, the ice to the southward being very compact as far as the eye 
could reach, and varying in its height from twelve to two feet above 
the level of the sea. At midnight the weather was cold, dark, and 
foggy, and seemed to indicate a S. W. gale. 

Friday, 25th Aug. At four this morning the current appeared 
to resume something of its former rapidity, causing the ice to move to 
the northward, and leaving small openings. This gave us faint 
hopes of a release ; but the wind springing up as we had anticipated, 
soon extinguished them. After breakfast we again visited, the hill, 
but with no better success than before. The tide returning or ebbing 
from the river brought back with it a quantity of the ice, almost every 
piece of which drifted athwart the boat ; so that we determined on 
getting her afloat, and shifting her to a better berth, where we should 
be ready to avail ourselves of the smallest prospect of getting clear. 
Having laid out an anchor astern, Ave with much difficulty got her 
through the sand bank that had formed itself round us ; and finding 
that at her own length farther out a channel was left for the ice to 
drive either out or into the river, we secured her to a large berg 
that had grounded and afforded us much shelter. Towards noon a 
number of natives vitited us, and were presented with tobacco, Sec. 
Among them was the old man spoken of the day before ; who on 
receiving his present, offered up what we concluded to be a prayer, 
at the same time blowing with his mouth, as if imploring an east 
wind and the dispersion of the ice. — In the afternoon the wind had 
increased to a gale. We went to the hill, and there observed the 
line of ice within the horizon, and the sea breaking very heavily out- 
side : we saw also a number of large bergs drifting down. At four, 
fresh gales with heavy squalls — the ice around us became closely 
wedged, the pieces being forced one over another, forming a solid 
mass. The body of ice in the offing was still drifting to the north- 
ward. This day Mr. Elson determined, if we should be compelled 
to quit the boat , to take every thing out of her except the gun, to 
remove her into the deepest part of the river, and there sink her, 
so as to prevent the natives from destroying or breaking her up to 
obtain the iron ; from which situation, should we visit this coast next 



1826.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 269 

year, she might with little trouble be raised. The stores and rigging 
also we resolved to bury, and to leave directions where they might 
be found. On visiting the village (which was about half a mile dis- 
tant), the natives were uncommonly civil. They resided in tents, 
the frames of which were made with poles, and covered with seal- 
skins : the bottom or floor was merely a few logs laid sidewise on the 
ground : inside there was a second lining of reindeer skin, which 
did not reach quite to the top : this constituted the whole of their 
dwelling. Their principal food appeared to be reindeer and seal's 
flesh ; and having procured more than sufficient of these animals for 
present use, they had buried the overplus in the sand, to be kept 
until required. They very generously led us to a seal that had 
been thus deposited. The flesh and blubber which had been sepa- 
rated were wrapped in the skin, and were in a most disgusting oily 
state. One of the natives put in his hand, stirred up the contents, 
and offered us some, the sight of which alone was enough to turn 
one's stomach. He seemed to pity our want of taste, and sucked 
his fingers with the greatest relish. Each of the crew having 
provided himself with native boots, &c., for travelling in, return- 
ed to the boat. During the night the gale abated, and the wind fell 
almost calm, and it began to freeze hard. Wherever there was any 
opening before, the water was covered with young ice. The tide 
here rose and fell from eighteen to twenty inches : — the time of 
change very irregular, probably influenced by the ice. 

Saturday, 26th Aug. Our chance of getting clear seemed more 
remote now than ever, and we commenced making preparation for 
the land journey. The crew were sent on shore to exercise their 
limbs, and train themselves for walking. We traced the winding of 
the river for some distance ; the banks were high on each side. It 
seemed deep, and its turnings frequent and sudden. The only an- 
imal we saw was a red fox, which avoided our pursuit. In the eve- 
ning we returned to the boat — the weather still frosty. 

Sunday, 27th Aug. We had a sharp frost during the night, attended 
with frozen particles, which fell like dust, and covered our. clothes. 
The wind light from the S. W., with a thick fog. The fresh water 
ponds were frozen to the thickness of half an inch. After eight a. 
m., Mr. Elson and myself walked along the beach to reconnitre the 
state of the ice. We found that if we could cut the boat through 
a quarter of a mile of ice, Ave should get into about double that dis- 
tance of clear water, and returned on board with the determination 
to accomplish this. Having got the boat afloat, we began our ar- 
duous task of cutting and hauling her through the ice. The natives, 
seeing us thus employed, very kindly came (unasked) and lent their 
assistance. We persevered in our labours till half past three, by 
which time we had moved the boat a mile and a half south of her for- 



270 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [August, 

mer position. Another and more formidable barrier was now op- 
posed to us, consisting of extensive pieces of ice aground, closely 
wedged together by smaller masses, under which we anchored. 
After dinner Mr. Elson and myself again visited the cliffs, and 
thought we could perceive a zigzag channel, which afforded a hope 
of liberation, provided we could force her through the present ob- 
stacle. Immediately we got on board, we commenced cutting a 
passage ; hut had no sooner made an opening, than it was filled by 
the current drifting smaller pieces of ice down. These we for some 
time kept cutting and clearing away ; but after two hours and a half 
of hard work, we found our exertions endless, and relinquished the 
attempt. In the evening the wind veered to the S. E., and the 
breeze, though light from this quarter, put some of the smaller piec- 
es of ice in motion off the land. We remained up till midnight, al- 
though fatigued with the toils of the day, and the wind having in- 
creased to a fresh breeze, had the consolation to witness the mov- 
ing of several of the larger pieces. The collision that now took 
place, owing to the shift of the wind (the ice in the offing still holding 
its former course, whilst that in-shore was opposed to it), occasioned 
a grinding noise not unlike to that of a heavy roaring surf. Having 
fully satisfied ourselves of the departure of the ice, if the wind should 
hold its present direction and force, we returned to rest, anxiously 
waiting the following morning. 

Monday, 28th Aug. Rising early, we had the great satisfaction 
to see that the formidable barrier which yesterday afternoon had 
been proof against our attempts, had nearly all drifted to sea, and 
that the coast, as far as we could discern, was fast clearing of ice. 
The wind blew strong at S. S. E. ; and every preparation being 
made for weighing, after a hasty breakfast the anchor was got up, 
and our little Vessel again bounded through the waters. Our tack- 
ing now was very uncertain, as in some places the ice still remained 
thick, and obliged us to perform that evolution twice or thrice in 
the space of a few minutes ; and as we made it a rule not to bear 
up for any thing, we had some close rubs. By two p. m. we could 
see the southern termination of the main body of ice. There were 
still a number of large pieces aground, and much drift about us ; the 
current setting to the northward at the rate of a mile and half an 
hour. At three the wind fell light. A heavy swell from the S. W. 
occasioned a furious surf along the beach, and obliged us to keep 
well out to sea. The ice still extending far to windward made our 
situation very critical should the wind blow hard from the S. W. 
It now fell calm, with heavy clouds in the S. W.; and being in want 
of water, we procured a supply from the bergs that were near us. 
We watched every cloud with the greatest anxiety, and at eight ob- 
served them coming steadily from the westward, bringing with them 



1826.] and beering's strait. 271 

a thick fog. We then stood to the northward until we reached the 
ice, when we tacked to the southward, and sailed along its margin. 
There were several walruses upon it, which at our approach bund- 
led into the water. We had scarcely got clear of this field or body 
of ice, when it again fell calm, the clouds very heavy, and a thick fog. 
Finding that the current was again setting us to the northward at the 
rate of two miles and a half an hour, we anchored, and had no soon- 
er done so, than several large detached bergs were seen driving rap- 
idly down in our hawse. We again got up the anchor, and towed 
the boat in-shore, where we anchored again, and kept a vigilant 
look-out. 

Tuesday, 29th Aug. In the course of the night the S. W. swell 
went down, and at one this mornrng a light air sprang up from the 
S. E. Weighed and stood in-shore, the wind gradually freshening. 
In running along the land, passed a quantity of drift ice. At noon, 
saw another body of ice about two miles distant, extending about 
eleven miles N. and S. ; and as we were not yet far enough south to 
see Cape Franklin, we were apprehensive the ice might join it, in 
which case we should be again beset. In the afternoon, with great 
pleasure, we passed between it and the southern extremity of the 
ice at the distance of a mile and a half. At three, it again fell calm 
— Cape Franklin, W. S. W. one mile. We were preparing to go 
on shore to deposit a bottle for Captain Franklin, which we had not 
done on our way to the northward, when a fresh gale suddenly rising 
at W. S. W. obliged us to abandon the project, as not a moment was 
to be lost in getting out of the bight, lest the ice (which experience 
had now taught us was quick in its motion) might again enclose us. 
The weather continued very unsettled during the night. 

Wednesday, 30th Aug. Having rounded the point, we ran fifty 
miles on a S. W. course. The wind then suddenly shifted to the 
S. W., blew very strong. We shortened sail to the close-reefed 
mainsail and storm-jib, and stood off and on shore. In the eve- 
ning we had showers of snow and sleet, and at midnight strong 
gales with squalls of snow. 

Thursday, 31st Aug. At two a. m. a heavy squall came on 
which split the mainsail, and a little before four the staysail shared 
the same fate. Towards the morning the weather was more mod- 
erate, accompanied with rain. Shortly after eight the wind sud- 
denly veered to W. N. W. and blew strong. Set the close-reefed 
foresail, and furled the other sails, steering S. S. W. Noon, more 
moderate. Latitude observed 70° 23' N. The remainder of the 
day was fine. 

Friday, 1st Sept. Our stock of wood and water being expended, 
we hauled towards the land and made all sail ; but as we drew in, 
the wind gradually decreased in strength, and before we obtained 



272 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

the shore, on that part where the high land recedes from the coast. 
The boat was soon despatched to procure what we wanted ; but in 
our thirsty moments we did not perceive that the pool from which 
we procured the water was brackish ; having however filled our 
casks with it, and obtained some fuel, we again put to sea, with the 
wind from the southward. 

Saturday, 2d Sept. Working along-shore. Noon calm and fine. 
Sent the boat on shore to get a supply of better water. Found all 
the pools near the beach very brackish ; from which we concluded 
that the recent westerly gales had thrown the surf so high that it 
became mingled with the water of the lakes, and we determined to 
have recourse to the first running stream we should come to. About 
two the wind again came from the southward, and at four we had 
every prospect of a gale from that quarter. It therefore became 
necessary to carry a heavy press of sail all night to obtain an anchor- 
age as near Cape Lisburn as possible, so that in the event of the 
wind shifting to the westward we might be able to get out of the 
bay. 

On Sunday, as had been anticipated, it blew a strong gale, but 
the boat made good weather of it until eight p. m., when the bow- 
sprit broke, and obliged us to anchor : Cape Lisburn W. N. W. six 
leagues. Strong gales, with heavy gusts of wind off the land con- 
tinued until four p. m., at which time the weather being more mod- 
erate, we weighed under close-reefed sails, and stood towards the 
cape, Mr. Elson wishing to be near an entrance to a lake which was 
situated a mile or two east of Cape Lisburn, in which he thought 
the boat might find shelter, should it blow hard from the westward. 
On arriving at this spot, we found, to our surprise, that the entrance 
which Mr. Elson had sounded and examined in the barge's little boat 
was quite filled up, and that there was not the slightest appearance 
of there ever having been one. In the evening the wind became 
light and variable. Anchored — the cape W. S. W. four miles. 

Monday, 4th Sept. It again blew strong from the southward, 
and at nine a. m. the wind increased so much as obliged us to let go 
another anchor to prevent being driven to sea. In the afternoon it 
again relaxed, but by midnight resumed its former violence. 

Tuesday, 5th Sept. The wind somewhat subsiding this morn- 
ing, completed our wood and water. Whilst thus employed, a na- 
tive came over the hills and trafficked with us. Afterwards he stole 
from one of the crew some tobacco, and made off. The theft was 
not discovered until he was a long way distant and running, being 
evidently aware of the crime he had committed. At noon a baidar 
with eleven natives came round the cape and visited us. The wind 
continued strong from the southward ; but being anxious to proceed, 
as our provisions were beginning to grow short, weighed and stood 



1826.] and beering's strait. 273 

towards the cape under the foresail and staysail only. At two we 
got within the influence of the variable winds, occasioned by the 
steep and high land of the cape. The bubble and violent agitation 
of the sea exceeded any idea of the kind we had formed, and broke 
over the boat in every direction. We had no method of extrica- 
ting her. The gusts of wind that came from every quarter lasting 
but a moment, left us no prospect of getting clear. We were at 
this time about two miles from the land. The wind inshore of us 
blew with astonishing violence ; the eddies from the hills making 
whirlwinds which carried up the spray equal in height to the moun- 
tain. However, by four p. ar., what with a slight current, and ta- 
king advantage of every flaw, we gained an offing of four miles, and, 
to prevent being set farther to the northward, anchored : — a heavy 
sea running, but little wind. We had not been more than half an 
hour in this situation when it blew again from the same point with 
redoubled violence. With some difficulty we lifted our anchor and 
made sail in for the land. As we approached it, the gusts came very 
strong off the hills, notwithstanding which we carried a press of sail 
to j egain an anchorage. For an hour and a half we were literally 
sailing through a sea of spray. At six, having closed well with the 
land, we anchored and rode out the gale. This evening Mr. Elson 
put the crew on half an allowance of provisions. 

Wednesday, 6th Sept. Early in the morning we observed an 
alteration in the weather. The clouds collecting fast from the N. 
W. led us to expect the wind from that quarter. At ten a. m., the 
wind becoming variable and moderate, weighed, and by three in the 
afternoon, to our inexpressible joy, got round the windy promontory 
of Cape Lisburn. The crew were again put on their former allow- 
ance ; and we made all sail, with an increasing breeze, to the south- 
ward. Passing the cape, we observed five baidars hauled up and 
one tent, but saw few of the natives. It had been Mr. Elson's in- 
tention to look into the bight on the northern side of Point Hope ; 
but the sea was so high and the weather so threatening that we kept 
well off, in order to weather the point. We noticed the water, 
whilst off Marryat Creek, to be of a very muddy colour, as if some 
river discharged itself there. By nine p. m. we rounded the point 
and steered S. S. E., to have a good offing in case the wind should 
again come from the westward. 

Thursday, 7th Sept. The weather seemed determined to per- 
secute us to the last. The wind strengthened to a gale, and raised 
a short, high, dangerous sea. We hauled in for the land as much 
as it would allow. At nine a. m. it blew extremely hard ; and, con- 
sidering it dangerous to scud, rounded to on the larboard tack, took 
in the foresail, and set balanced-reefed mainsail and storm-jib. 
Found the boat behave uncommonly well and continue tolerably 

35 



§74 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

dry. At noon our latitude was 67° 19' N. In the afternoon it mod- 
erated, and we made sail in for the land. At four p. m. saw Cape 
Mulgrave on the weather-bow, and altered our course for Kotzebue 
Sound. The wind dying away left us at midnight becalmed a few 
miles from Cape Krusenstern. 

Friday, 8th. After a few hours' calm, a breeze came from the 
S. E., and we worked along shore. In the forenoon several bai- 
dars came off to us We procured in exchange for a few beads, a 
large quantity of salmon, in hopes we should be able to keep enough 
to supply the ship. While sailing along the land, many more of 
these boats came off; but on waving them to return, they left us un- 
molested. We saw immense quantities of fish drying on shore, and 
concluded that the natives assembled at this inlet to lay in their 
winter stock. 

Saturday, 9th. Owing to the light winds, we made but small 
progress during the night, and this morning were off Hotham Inlet. 
At eleven anchored. Sent the boat on shore to obtain wood and 
water. Noon, the latitude observed (with false horizon) was 66° 
58' N. The spot abreast where we anchored had, when Mr. El- 
son visited this inlet before, been the site of an Esquimaux village ; 
but there was not a single tent left. In the evening we weighed 
from here, and the next morning had the pleasure of seeing the ship 
at anchor off Chamisso Island, and the gratification to find all on 
board of her well. 

(Signed) William Smyth, 

Mate of H. M. S. Blossom. 

By this expedition about seventy miles of coast, in addition to 
those discovered by the Blossom — making in the whole 126 miles 
— have been added to the geography of the polar regions, and the 
distance between Captain Franklin's discoveries and our own has 
been brought within so small a compass as to leave very little room 
for further speculation on the northern limits of the continent of 
America. The actual distance left unexplored is thus reduced to 
146 miles, and there is much reason to believe, from the state of the 
sea about Point Barrow, and along that part of the coast which was 
explored by Captain Franklin, that the navigation of the remain- 
ing portion of unknown coast in boats is by no means a hopeless 
project. 

Having now the assistance of the barge, I embarked in her to 
examine narrowly the shores of Kotzebue Sound. Proceeding to 
survey the head of Escholtz Bay, shallow water obliged the boat to 
anchor off Elephant Point, where I left Mr. Collie with a party to 
examine again the cliffs in which the fossils and ice formation had 
been seen by Kotzebue, and proceeded to the head of the bay in a 



1826.] and beering's strait. 275 

small boat. We landed upon a flat muddy beach, and were obliged 
to wade a quarter of a mile before we could reach a cliff for the 
purpose of having a view of the surrounding country. Having 
gained its summit, we were gratified by the discovery of a large 
river coming from the southward, and passing between our station 
and a range of hills. At a few miles distance the river passed be- 
tween rocky cliffs, whence the land on either side became hilly, and 
interrupted our further view of its course. The width of the river 
was about a mile and a half; but this space was broken into narrow 
and intricate channels by banks — some dry, and others partly so. 
The stream passed rapidly between them, and at an earlier period 
of the season a considerable body of water must be poured into the 
sound ; though, from the comparative width of the channels, the 
current in the latter is not much felt. 

The shore around us was flat, broken by several lakes, in which 
there were a great many wildfowl. The cliff we had ascended was 
composed of a bluish mud and clay, and was full of deep chasms 
lying in a direction parallel with the front of the eminence. In ap- 
pearance this hill was similar to that at Elephant Point, which was 
said to contain fossils ; but there were none seen here, though the 
earth, in parts, had a disagreeable smell, similar to that which was 
supposed to proceed from the decayed animal substances in the cliff 
near Elephant Point. 

Returning from this river, we were joined by three caiacs from 
some tents near us, and four from the river, who were very troub- 
lesome, pestering us for tawack, and receiving the little we had to 
give them in the most ungracious manner, without offering any 
return. 

I found Mr. Collie had been successful in his search among the 
cliffs at Elephant Point, and had discovered several bones and grind- 
ers of elephants and other animals in a fossil state. Associating 
these two discoveries, I bestowed the name of Elephant upon the 
point, to mark its vicinity to the place where the fossils were found ; 
and upon the river that of Buckland, in compliment to Dr. Buck- 
land, the professor of geology at Oxford, to whom I am much in- 
debted for the above mentioned description of the fossils. 

The cliff in which these fossils appear to have been imbedded is 
part of the range in which the ice formation was seen in July. 
During our absence (a space of five weeks) we found that the edge 
of the cliff in one place had broken away four feet, and in another 
two feet and a half, and a further portion of it was on the eve of 
being precipitated upon the beach. In some places where the icy 
shields had adhered to the cliff nothing now remained, and frozen 
earth formed the front of the cliff. By cutting through those parts 
of the ice which were still attached, the mud in a frozen state pre- 



276 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

sented itself as before, and confirmed our. previous opinion of the 
nature of the cliff. Without putting it to this test, appearances 
might well have led to the conclusion come to by Kotzebue and M. 
Escholtz ; more especially if it happened to be visited early in the 
summer, and in a season less favourable than that in which we view- 
ed it. The earth, which is fast falling away from the cliffs — not in 
this place only, but in all parts of the bay — is carried away by the 
tide ; and throughout the summer there must be a tendency to di- 
minish the depth of the water, which at no very distant period will 
probably leave it navigable only by boats. It is now so shallow off 
the ice cliffs, that a bank dries at two miles, distance from the shore ; 
and it is only at the shingly points which occur opposite the ravines 
that a convenient landing can be effected with small boats.* 

In consequence of this shallow water there was much difficulty 
in embarking the fossils, the tusks in particular, the largest of which 
weighed 160lbs., and it took us the greater part of the night to ac- 
complish it. In our way on board we met several native caiacs, 
and had an exhibition of one of the Esquimaux in throwing his dart, 
which he placed in a slip, a small wooden instrument about a foot in 
length, with a hole cut in the end to receive the forefinger, and a 
notch for the thumb. The stick being thus grasped, the dart was 
laid along a groove in the slip, and embraced by the middle finger 
and thumb. The man next propelled his caiac with speed in order 
to communicate greater velocity to the dart, and then whirled it 
through the air to a considerable distance. As there was no mark, 
we could not judge of his skill in taking aim. His party lived a 
long distance up Buckland river, and were acquainted with the musk 
ox, which I am the more particular in remarking, as we had never 
seen that animal on the coast. 

About eight o'clock at night we had a brilliant display of the au- 
rora borealis, a phenomenon of the heavens so beautiful that it has 
been justly thought to surpass all description. 

In our return to the ship to deposit the fossils, a calm obliged us 
to anchor on the north side of the bay, where we landed with diffi- 
culty, in consequence of the shallowness of the beach, and of seve- 
ral ridges of sand thrown up parallel with it, too near the surface for 
the boat to pass over, and with channels of water between them too 
deep to wade through without getting completely wet. The coun- 
try abounded in lakes, in which were many wild ducks, geese, teal, 
and widgeon ; and was of the same swampy nature before describ- 
ed : it was covered with moss, and occasionally by low bushes of 

* This difficulty of approaching- the shore, even in a boat, will, I trust, convince 
the reader of the impracticability of trying the effect of a cannon shot upon the mud 
cliff with a view of bringing down some part of its surface, as has been suggested 
since the publication of the quarto edition. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 277 

juniper, cranberry, whortleberry, and cloudberry. Near this spot, 
two days before, Ave saw a herd of eleven reindeer, and shot a musk 
rat. 

Hence westward, to the neck of Choris Peninsula, the shore was 
difficult of access, on account of long muddy flats extending into the 
the bay, and at low water drying in some places a quarter of a mile 
from the beach. 

Bad weather and the duties of the ship prevented my resuming 
the examination of the sound until the 20th, when we ran across in 
the barge to Spafarief Bay, and explored the coast from thence to 
the westward ; passing close along the beach, anchoring at night, 
and landing occasionally during the day for observations, and to ob- 
tain information of the nature of the country. 

This part of the sound appeared to have so few temptations to the 
Esquimaux, that we saw only two parties upon it ; and one of these, 
by having their dogs harnessed in the boat, appeared to be only on 
an excursion : the other was upon Cape Deceit, a bold promontory, 
with a conspicuous rock off it, so named by Captain Kotzebue. At 
two places where we landed there were some deserted yourts, not 
worthy of description ; and at the mouth of two rivers in the first 
and second bays to the eastward of Cape Deceit, there were several 
spars and logs of drift-wood, placed erect, which showed that the na- 
tives had occupied these stations for catching fish, but they were now 
all deserted. Both these rivers had bars across the entrances, upon 
which the sea broke, so as to prevent a boat from entering them. 

The land on the south side of the sound, as far as the Bay of Good 
Hope, is higher, more rocky, and of a bolder character than the op- 
posite shore, though it still resembles it in its swampy superficial 
covering, and in the occurrence of lakes wherever the land is flat. 
Under water also, it has a bolder character than the northern side, 
and has generally soundings of four and five fathoms quite close to 
the promontories. There are two or three places under these head- 
lands which, in case of necessity, will afford shelter to boats, but 
each with a particular wind only ; and in resorting thither the direc- 
tion of the wind and the side of the promontory must be taken into 
consideration. 

In a geological point of view this part of the coast is interesting, 
as being the only place in the sound where volcanic rocks occurred. 
Near the second promontory, to the eastward of Cape Deceit, we 
found slaty limestone, having scales of talc between the layers ; and 
in those parts of the cliff which were most fallen down a talcaceous 
slate, with thin layers of limestone, and where the rocks were more 
abrupt, limestone of a more compact nature. In this cliff there was 
also an alum slate of a dark bluish colour. We could not land at 
the next cliff, but, on a close view of the rock, conjectured it to con- 



278 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

sist of compact limestone, dipping to the E. N. E. at an angle of 
30°. Cape Deceit, the next headland, appeared to be compact 
limestone also, in large angular blocks, devoid of any distinct strata- 
fication. Proceeding on to Gullhead, which is a narrow rocky pe- 
ninsula, stretching a mile into the sea, we found it chiefly composed 
of slaty limestone, of a blackish and grayish colour, containing par- 
ticles of talc in larger or smaller quantities, as it was elevated above 
or on a level with the sea, but without any visible stratafication. 
A bed of slate to the eastward of the promontory, bore strong 
marks of its having been subjected to the action of fire. The slaty 
limestone of the clifFon the eastern side of this, dips at an angle of 
65° to the eastward. The neck or isthmus is either unstratafied, or 
its beds are perpendicular ; beyond it the strata dip to the west at 
nearly a right angle. 

Eight miles farther along the coast, we landed at the first of a 
series of low points, with small bays between them, which continue 
about four miles, beyond which the coast assumes a totally different 
character. On these low points, as well as upon the shores of the 
bay, we were surprised to find large blocks of porous vesicular lava 
and more compact lava, containing portions of olivine. These blocks 
are accumulated in much larger quantities on the points, and in the 
bays form reefs off the coast which are dangerous to boats passing 
close along the shore. The country here slopes gradually from 
some hills to the beach, and is so well overgrown that we could not 
examine its substrata ; but they do not in outward formation ex- 
hibit any indication of volcanic agency. 

Further on we landed in a small bay formed by a narrow wall of 
volcanic stones — some wholly above water, others only slightly im- 
mersed. These reefs were opposite a low mud cliff, similar in its 
nature to those in which the fossils were found in Escholtz Bay ; 
and though they did not furnish any bones, yet it is remarkable that 
a piece of a tusk was picked up on the beach near them. It must, 
however, be observed that its edges were rounded ofFby the surf, to 
which it had been a long time exposed ; and it might have been 
either washed up from some other place, or have been left on the 
beach by the natives. 

To the westward of these rocky projections the coast is low, 
swampy, and intersected by lakes and rivers. The rounded hills 
which thus far bound the horizon of the sound to the southward here 
branch off inland, and a distant range of a totally different character 
rises over the vast plain that extends to Cape Espenburg, and forms 
the whole of the western side of the sound. In the angle which it 
makes, we discovered a river, which, we were informed by a few 
natives who came off to us in a miserable baidar, with dogs looking 
as unhappy as themselves, extended inland five days' journey for 



1826.] and beering's strait. Q79 

their baidars ; but on examination it proved so shallow at the mouth, 
that even the gig could not enter it. A few miles to the north-west- 
ward of this river, we arrived off the inlet which Captain Kotzebue 
meditated to explore in baidars, and was very sanguine that it would 
lead to some great inland discovery. We consequently approached 
the spot with interest ; and as soon as the mud capes through which 
the river has made its way to the ocean opened to our view, bore 
up, with the intention of sailing into the inlet, which runs in a west- 
erly direction ; but we were here again obliged to desist, in conse- 
quence of the shallowness of the water. At two miles and more 
from the shore, we had less than a fathom water ; and we observed 
the sea breaking heavily upon a bank which extended from shore to 
shore across the mouth of the inlet. Thinking, however, these 
breakers might be occasioned by the overfall of the tide, the gig was 
despatched to endeavour to effect a passage through them ; but the 
water shoaling gradually, she could not approach within even a 
cable's length of the breakers. At the top of the tide, probably, 
when the water is smooth, small boats may enter the inlet ; but if 
the bar is attempted under other circumstances, the crew will prob- 
ably be subjected to a similar ducking to that which Captain Kot- 
zebue himself experienced in repassing it. Seeing these difficulties 
I did not deem any further examination necessary ; and as it could 
never lead to any useful purpose of navigation, I did not even con- 
template a return to it under more favourable circumstances. The 
inlet occurs in a vast plain of low ground, bounded on the north by 
Cape Espenburg, on the east by the Bay of Good Hope, on the 
west by Beering's Strait, and on the south by ranges of mountains 
There are also several lakes and creeks in the plain, some of which 
may probably communicate with the inlet ; or they may all, Schis- 
mareff Inlet included, be the mouths of a large river. It is, howev- 
er, very improbable that there should be any direct communication 
between these two inlets, as the natives would, in that case, have in- 
formed us of it when they drew their chart of the sound. 

While we were off here, we noticed a parhelion so bright that it 
was difficult to distinguish it from the sun ; a circumstance the more de- 
serving of remark, in consequence of the naturalist of Kotzebue's 
expedition having observed that this phenomenon is very rare in these 
seas, and that a Russian grown old in the Aleutean Islands never 
saw it more than once. Quitting this inlet, we directed our course 
along the land toward Cape Espenburg, and found that the bar was 
not confined to the mouth of the inlet alone, but extended the whole 
way to the cape, and was not passable in any part ; having tried in- 
effectually in those places which afforded the best prospect of suc- 
cess. 

On landing at Cape Espenburg, we found that the sea penetrated 



280 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

to the southward of it, formed it into a narrow strip of land, upon 
which were some high sand-hills. The point had a great many- 
poles placed erect upon it, and had evidently been the residence of 
the Esquimaux ; but it was now entirely deserted. Near these poles 
there were several huts and native burial-places, in which the bodies 
were disposed in a very different manner to that practised by the 
eastern Esquimaux. The corpse was here enclosed in a sort of 
coffin formed of loose planks, and placed upon a platform of drift- 
wood, covered over with a board and several spars, which, were kept 
in their places by poles driven into the ground in a slanting direc- 
tion, with their ends crossing each other over the pile. The body 
was found lying with the head to the westward, and had been inter- 
red in a double dress, the under one made of the skins of eider- 
drakes, and the upper one of those of reindeer. It had been ex- 
posed a considerable time, as the skeleton only was left ; but enough 
of the dress remained to show the manner in which the body had 
been clothed. 

The beach was in a great measure composed of dark-coloured 
volcanic sand, and was strewed with dead shells of the cardium, Ve- 
nus, turbo, murex, solen, trochus, mytilus, mya, lepas,"and tellina 
genera : there were also some large asterias. The sand-hills were 
partly covered with elymus grass, the vaccinium vitis idaga empe- 
trum nigrum, and some shrubs, while the carex preferred the hollow 
moist places ; the rest of the surface was occupied by lichens. On 
the border of the lakes there were several curlew, sanderlings, and 
gulls ; while small flocks of ptarmigan alighted upon those parts 
which produced berries. A red fox prowling among the deserted 
huts and the graves was the only quadruped seen. Nearly the 
whole of the day was passed at this place in making astronomical ob- 
servations ; after which we embarked, and were obliged by bad 
weather to return to the ship. 

The day after my departure, a new cutter, which had been built 
of some wood of the porou-tree, grown upon Otaheite, was com- 
pleted and launched, and upon trial found to answer under canvas 
beyond our expectations, doing great credit to Mr. Garret, the car- 
penter, who built her almost entirely himself. I placed her under 
the charge of Lieutenant Belcher, who was afterwards almost daily 
employed in surveying. 

On the 22nd the aurora borealis was seen in the W. N. W. ; 
from which quarter it passed rapidly to the N. E., and formed a 
splendid arch, emitting vivid and brilliantly coloured coruscations. 

On the 25th the wind, which had blown strong from the northward 
the day before changed to the southward, and had such an effect 
uponthe tide that it ebbed twenty hours without intermission. 

In another excursion which I made along the north side of the 



1826.] and beering's strait. 281 

sound, I landed at a cape which had been named after the ship, and 
had the satisfaction of examining an ice formation of a similar na- 
ture to that in Escholtz Bay, only more extensive and having a con- 
trary aspect. The ice here, instead of merely forming a shield to 
the cliff, was imbedded in the indentations along its edge, filling 
them up nearly even with the front. A quantity of fallen earth was 
accumulated at the base of the cliff, which uniting with the earthy 
spaces intervening between the beds of ice, might lead a person to 
imagine the ice formed the cliff, and supported a soil two or three 
feet thick, part of which appeared to have been precipitated over the 
brow. But on examining it above, the ice was fouud to be detach- 
ed from the cliff at the back of it ; and in a few instances so much 
so, that there were deep chasms between the two. These chasms 
are no doubt widened by the tendency the ice must have towards 
the edge of the cliff; and I have no doubt the beds of ice are occa- 
sionally loosened, and fall upon the beach, where if they become 
covered with the earthy materials from above, and perhaps remain 
some time immured. In some places the cliff was undermined, 
and the surface in general was very rugged ; but it was evident in 
this, as in the former instance, that the ice was lodged in the hollow 
places in the cliff. While we continued here we had an example of the 
manner in which the face of the cliff might obtain an icy covering sim- 
ilar to that in Escholtz Bay. There had been a sharp frost during 
the night, which froze a number of small streams that were trick- 
ling down the face of the cliff, and cased those parts of it with a 
sheet of ice, which, if the oozings from the cliff and the freezing 
process were continued, would without doubt form a thick coating 
to it. 

Upon the beach, under the cliffs, there was an abundance of drift 
birch and pine wood, among which there was a fir-tree three feet in 
diameter. This tree, and another, which by the appearance of its 
bark had been recently torn up by the roots, had been washed up 
since our visit to this spot in July ; but from whence they came we 
could not even form a conjecture, as we had frequently remarked 
the absence of floating timber, both in the sound and in the strait. 

We found some natives at this place laying out their nets for seals, 
who, perceiving we were about to take up our quarters near them, 
struck their tents expeditiously, threw every thing into their baid- 
ars, to which they harnessed their dogs, and drove off for about half 
a mile, where they encamped again. We procured from them about 
two bushels of whortle berries, which they had collected for their 
own consumption, and learnt that they had been unsuccessful in 
fishing. We noticed that at their meals they stripped their dried 
fish of its skin, and gave it to the women and children, who ate it 
very contentedly, while the men regaled themselves upon the flesh. 

36 



282 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct 

During the night we had a brilliant display of the aurora borealis, 
remarkable for its masses of bright light. It extended from N. E. 
to W., and at one time formed three arches. As we were taking 
our departure we were visited by a baidar, from which we procured 
some fine fresh salmon and trout. The coxswain of this boat wore 
unusually large labrets, consisting of blue glass beads fixed upon 
circular pieces of ivory, a full inch in diameter. He drew us a chart 
of Hotham Inlet, which resembled one that had been traced upon 
the beach by some natives the day before ; both of which represen- 
ted it as an arm of the sea in the form of an hour-glass, which was 
not far from the truth. The Esquimaux seem to have a natural tal- 
ent for such delineations ; and though their outlines may serve no 
essential purpose of navigation, they are still useful in pointing out 
the nature of a place that has not been visited : an information which 
may sometimes save a useless journey. It is, however, to be obser- 
ved, that not unfrequently they appear to trace the route which a 
boat can pursue, rather than the indentations of the coast, by which 
rivers and bays not frequented would be overlooked. Such charts 
are further useful in marking the dwellings and fishing stations of 
the natives. 

From hence we bore away to examine Hotham Inlet, and found 
it so encumbered with shoals that it was necessary to run seven 
miles off the land to avoid striking upon them ; it had but one small 
entrance, so very narrow and intricate, that the boats grounded re- 
peatedly in pursuing it. In the middle of the channel there were 
only five feet water at half-flood; and the tide ebbed so strong 
through it, that the boat could not stem it ; and as there was but a 
small part of the coast of this inlet that we had not seen, and find- 
ing the examination of it would be attended with difficulty, and 
would occupy a long time, the boats did not ascend it. The shoal 
which is off the entrance has no good land-marks for it ; the bear- 
ings from its extremity in two fathoms and a half of water are Cape 
Blossom, S. 66° 40' E. (true); Western High Mount, N. 17° 30' 
W. (true) ; and the west extreme, a bluff cape, near Cape Krus- 
eastern, N. 37° 0' W. (true.) But the best way to avoid it is to go 
about directly the soundings decrease to six fathoms, as after that 
depth they shoal so rapidly to two fathoms and a quarter that there 
is scarcely room to put the ship round. 

On the 1st of October we landed upon a sandy point at the west- 
ern limit of the inlet, and were joined by a few Esquimaux who 
had their tents not far off to the westward ; they had communica- 
ted with the boat two months before, and came again in the expec- 
tation of getting a few more blue beads and foreign articles for some 
nets and fish. They immediately recognised such of the officers as 
they had seen before, and were delighted at meeting them. Some 



1826.] and beebing's stbait. 283 

of the beads which they had obtained were now suspended to dif- 
ferent parts of their dress, in the same manner as was practised by 
the Esquimaux of Melville Peninsula, and round their necks, or 
were made into bracelets. They corroborated the former account 
of the inlet, the length of which they estimated a long day's pad- 
dle ; our observations made it thirty-nine miles. At the back of 
the point where we landed there was another inlet, to the end of 
which they said their baidars could also go, notwithstanding we saw 
a bar across its mouth so shallow that the gulls waded over from 
shore to shore. Near us, there was a burying ground, which, in 
addition to what we had already observed at Cape Espenburg, fur- 
nished several examples of the manner in which this tribe of natives 
dispose of their dead. In some instances a platform was construct- 
ed of drift-wood, raised about two feet and a quarter from the ground, 
upon which the body was placed with its head to the westward, and 
a double tent of drift-wood erected over it ; the inner one with spars 
about seven feet long, and the outer one with some that were three 
times that length. They were placed close together, and at first no 
doubt sufficiently so to prevent the depredations of foxes and wolves ; 
but they had yielded at last ; and all the bodies, and even the hides 
that covered them, had suffered by these rapacious animals. 

In these tents of the dead there were no coffins or planks, as at 
Cape Espenburg ; the bodies were dressed in a frock made of eider- 
duck skins, with one of deer-skin over it, and were covered with a 
sea-horse hide, such as the natives use for their baidars. Suspen- 
ded to the poles, and on the ground near them, were several Esqui- 
maux implements, consisting of wooden trays, paddles, and a tam- 
bourine, which, we were informed, as well as signs could convey, 
were placed there for the use of the deceased, who, in the next 
world, (pointing to the western sky) ate drank, and sang songs. 
Having no interpreter, this was all the information I could obtain ; 
but the custom of placing such implements around ihe receptacles 
of the dead is not unusual, and in all probability the Esquimaux may 
believe that the soul has enjoyments in the next world similar to 
those which constitute happiness in this. 

The people whom we saw here were very inquisitive about our 
fire-arms, and to satisfy one of them I made him fire off a musket, 
that was loaded with ball, towards a large tree that was lying upon 
the beach. The explosion and the recoil which succeeded the sim- 
ple operation of touching the trigger so alarmed him, that he turned 
pale and put away the gun. As soon as his fear subsided he laugh- 
ed heartily, as did all his party, and went to examine the wood which 
was found to be perforated by the ball, and afforded them a fair 
specimen of the capability of our arms ; but he could not be pre- 
vailed upon to repeat the operation. 



284 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

They had some skins of ravens with them, upon which they 
place a high price, though being of no use to us, they did not find 
a purchaser. On several occasions we had noticed the beaks and 
claws of these birds attached to ornamental bands for the head and 
waist, and they were evidently considered valuable. On our return 
to the ship we fell in with another party of natives, among whom 
there were two men whose appearance and conduct again led us to 
conclude that the large blue glass labrets indicated a superiority of 
rank, and found, as before, that no reasonable offer would induce 
them to part with these ornaments. 

On the 3rd, we reached the ship, and were informed that she 
had been visited by several baidars in our absence, and had pro- 
cured from them a quantity of dried salmon, which was afterwards 
served to the ship's company. These boats were the last that vis- 
ited the ship, as the season was evidently arrived for commencing 
their preparations for winter. About this time we had sharp frosts 
at night ; some snow fell ; and on the 5th all the lakes on shore 
were frozen. The hares and ptarmigan were quite white, and all 
the birds had quitted their abodes in the rocks to seek a milder at- 
mosphere. These unequivocal symptoms of the approach of win- 
ter excited great anxiety for the safety of the land expedition. 

On the 7th, Mr. Elson went up Escholtz Bay with two boats for 
the purpose of sounding and obtaining further information of Buck- 
land River, but returned on the 10th, without having been able to 
effect it, on account of the hostile disposition of the natives, whom 
he met in the bay. When the small boat was detached from the 
barge, three baidars approached her ; and their crews, consisting of 
between thirty and forty men, drew their knives and attempted to 
board her, and, on the whole, behaved in so daring and threatening 
a manner, that Mr.Elson, fearing he should be compelled to resort 
to severe measures, if he proceeded with the examination of the 
river, desisted, and returned to the ship. This was the first instance 
of any decidedly hostile conduct of the natives in the sound, whose 
behaviour in general had left with us a favourable impression of the 
disposition of their tribe. The barge brought us down a valuable 
addition to our collection of fossils, the cliff having broken away 
considerably since the first specimens were obtained. 

On the 8th, we had the misfortune to lose one of the marines, 
by dysentery and general inflammation of the abdomen. On the 
10th, having selected a convenient spot for a grave, on the low point 
of Chamisso Island, his body was interred in the presence of almost 
all his shipmates, and a stone properly inscribed put up to mark the 
spot ; but the earth was replaced over the grave as evenly as possi- 
ble, in order that no appearance of excavation might remain to at- 
tract the attention of the natives. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 285 

We had hitherto remained in the sound, in the expectation of 
being able to wait till the end of October, the date named in my 
instructions ; but the great change that had recently occurred in the 
atmosphere, the departure of all the Esquimaux for their winter 
habitations, the migration of the birds, the frozen state of the lakes, 
and the gradual cooling down of the sea, were symptoms of approach- 
ing winter too apparent to be disregarded, and made it evident that 
the time was not far distant when it would be necessary to quit the 
anchorage, to avoid being shut up by the young ice. On every 
account I was anxious to remain until the above-mentioned period ; 
but as my instructions were peremptory in desiring me not to incur 
the risk of wintering, it was incumbent upon me seriously to consid- 
er how late the ship could remain without encountering that risk 
By quitting the rendezvous earlier than had been agreed upon, the 
lives of Captain Franklin's party might be involved ; by remaining 
too long, those of my own ship's company would be placed in immi- 
nent hazard, as but five weeks' provision at full allowance remained 
in the ship, and the nearest place where we could replenish them 
was upwards of 2000 miles distant. Thus circumstanced, I was 
desirous of having the advice of the officers of the ship before I made 
up my own mind, and accordingly addressed an official letter to 
them, requesting they would take every circumstance into their con- 
sideration, and furnish me with their opinion on the propriety of re- 
maining longer in these seas. 

Their answer, which I received the next day, conveyed an unan- 
imous opinion that the ship could not continue longer at her present 
anchorage without incurring the risk of wintering, and suggested her 
removal to the entrance of the sound, where the majority of the 
officers thought she might remain a few days longer ; but previous; 
to our taking up our station there, it was considered advisable that 
the strait should be ascertained to be navigable, lest the ice should 
have been drifted down from the northward, and the retreat of the 
ship be cut off. I fully concurred in with them, that if the frost 
continued the ship could not remain at her anchorage ; but as there 
was a possibility of its yielding, I resolved to wait a day or two or 
longer upon the chance, determined, if it did not give way, to quit 
the sound; and in the event of Beering's Strait being found clear, 
to return, as had been proposed, and to wait a few days off Cape 
Krusenstern, in the hope of meeting the party. Considering, how- 
ever, the lateness of the season and the long nights, there did not 
appear to be much chance of the ship being able to maintain an ad- 
vantageous position at the mouth of the sound ; still, as I was un- 
willing to relinquish the smallest chance of falling in with the party, 
I purposed making the attempt. In so doing, however, it was ne- 
cessary to insure our departure by the 23rd instant, which consider- 



286 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

ing our distance from any new supplies, and that at that period there 
would be but nine weeks' provision remaining at half allowance, was 
as late as I thought it prudent to continue. 

We were now made sensible of the great advantage arising from 
the economical system that had been adopted at the Society and 
Sandwich Islands, and also from the reduction of an eleventh part 
of the ship's company at Portsmouth, without which the provision 
before this period would have been wholly expended, as the allow- 
ance from the time of leaving Chili had been reduced as low as it 
conveniently could, for a continuance, consistent with the strength 
of the ship's company, who for several months had been on half al- 
lowance. 

It now remained for me to consider how Captain Franklin could 
be most benefitted in the event of his party arriving after our depar- 
ture. It was evident that we could do no more than put him in 
possession of every information we had obtained, and leave him a 
temporary supply of provisions and bartering articles, with which he 
could procure others from the natives. To this end a barrel of 
flour was buried for him upon the sandy point of Chamisso, a place 
which, from the nature of the ground, was more likely to escape 
observation than the former one, where the newly turned turf could 
not be concealed. A large tin case, containing beads and a letter, 
was deposited with it, to enable him to purchase provisions from the 
natives, and to guide his conduct. Ample directions for finding 
these were both cut and painted on the rock ; and to call the atten- 
tion of the party to the spot, which they might otherwise pass, see- 
ing the ship had departed, her name was painted in very large let- 
ters on the cliffs of Puffin Island, accompanied with a notice of her 
departure, and the period to which she had remained in the sound. 
Beneath it were written directions for finding the cask of flour, and 
also a piece of drift-wood which was deposited in a hole in the cliff. 
This billet had been purporsely bored and charged with a letter 
containing all the useful information I could impart to the party, and 
then plugged up in such a manner that no traces of its being open- 
ed were visible. In fact, nothing was left undone that appeared to 
me likely to prove useful. 

Having thus far performed our duty, we prepared the ship for sea, 
in order that she might start at an hour's notice. On the 13th the 
temperature fell to 27°, the lakes on shore had borne two or three 
days, and the sea had cooled down 8° ; in short, there was every ap- 
pearance of a settled frost. The next day the edges of the sound 
began to freeze, and it was evident that it needed only calm weath- 
er to skin it entirely over. I therefore desired the anchor to be 
weighed, and having taken on board a large supply of drift-wood, 
the last thing we procured from the shore, we steered out of the 
sound. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 265 

We passed Cape Krusenstern about midnight and then shaped a 
course for the strait. The night, though cold, was fine, and furn- 
ished me with eighteen sets of lunar distances, east and west of the 
moon, which I was very anxious to obtain, in order to fix more ac- 
curately the position of Chamisso Island, never having been able to 
succeed in getting fine weather with the moon to the east of the 
sun, until his declination was too far south for the lunars to be of 
any value. 

We had no observation at noon the next day, and the land was 
so refracted that we scarcely recognised it ; we, however, continued 
to run for the strait, anxious to reach it before sunset. The breeze 
increased as we advanced, and before the Diomede Islands came in 
sight it blew so violently that there was no alternative but to endeavour 
to push through them before dusk. At this time there was a very 
thick haze, with a bright setting sun glaring through it, which with 
the spray around us prevented any thing being seen but the tops of 
the mountains near Cape Prince of Wales. It was consequently 
with great pleasure we perceived Fairway Rock, and found the strait 
quite free from ice. 

Having no choice, we passed through it at a rapid rate ; and as 
the night set in dark and thick, with snow showers, we were glad 
to find ourselves with sea-room around us. A little before midnight 
the lee-bow port was washed away, and so much water came in that 
was necessary to put before the wind to free the ship. In half an 
hour, however, we resumed our course, and about two o'clock in the 
morning passed King's Island. 

We were now in a situation where, by rounding to, we might 
have awaited fine weather to return to Cape Krusenstern, and ex- 
ecute the whole of the plan that had been contemplated ; but con- 
sidering that our being able to do so was uncertain, as the barome- 
ter, which had fallen to 28,7, afforded no prospect of a change of 
weather, and that the period I had fixed for my departure might ex- 
pire before I could repass the straits ; together with the state of our 
provisions, and the improbability of meeting with Captain Frank- 
lin after all, it appeared to me that the risks which it involved were 
greater than the uncertainty of the result justified ; and painful as it 
was to relinquish every hope of this successful issue of our voyage, 
it became my duty to do so. In the execution of this necessary 
resolution, it was some consolation to reflect, that from the nature 
of Captain Franklin's instructions, it was almost certain that by this 
time he had either commenced his return or taken up his winter 
abode. He had been directed to return to his winter quarters on 
the 15th of August, if he found the prospect of success was not such 
as to ensure his reaching Icy Cape that season, and if it should 
prove impracticable to winter at an advanced station on the coast. 



288 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

We were justified, therefore, in supposing that he had already been 
either compelled to pause or to turn back, as, in the event of the 
successful prospect anticipated in his instructions, it could hardly 
happen, considering the open state in which we had found the sea to 
the northward, that he should not have reached Kotzebue sound by 
the time the Blossom left it. 

In taking our departure from these seas, some general observa- 
tions on the country, natives, the currents, meteorology, and other 
subjects, naturally present themselves ; but as we returned to the 
same place the following year, and extended our experience, I shall 
defer them until a future opportunity. 

Up to this period of the voyage, my instructions had been a safe 
guide for my proceedings ; but between our departure from these 
seas, and our return to them the following year, with the exception 
of touching at the Sandwich Islands, there were no specific direc- 
tions for my guidance, and it became me seriously to consider how 
the time could be most usefully employed. It was necessary to re- 
pair to some port to refit and caulk the ship, to replenish the pro- 
visions and stores, and, what was equally important, to recruit the 
health of the people, who were much debilitated from their priva- 
tions ; having been a considerable time on short allowance of salt 
provision, and in the enjoyment of only seven weeks' fresh meat in 
the last ten months. 

From the favourable account I had herd of Saint Francisco in 
California, it appeared to be the most desirable place to which a 
ship under our circumstances could resort ; and as the coast between 
that port and Cape St. Lucas was very imperfectly known, that the 
time could not be more usefully employed than in completing the 
survey of it. I therefore directed our course to that place, and de- 
termined to enter the Pacific by the Strait of Oonemak ; which, if 
not the safest of those formed by the Aleutian Islands, is certainly 
the best known. 

After passing King's Island on the 16th, we saw some very large 
flocks of ducks migrating to the southward, and fell in with the 
lummes, which had deserted us more than a month before at Cham- 
isso Island. As we approached St. Lawrence Island, the little 
crested auks flew around us, and some land birds took refuge in our 
rigging. We passed to the eastward of this island in very thick 
weather, and had only a transient view of its eastern extremity, and 
thence pursued a course to the southward, passing between Gore's 
Island and Nunevack, an island recently discovered by the Russians, 
but not known to us at that time. The soundings increased, though 
not always regularly ; and we had thick misty weather which pre- 
vented and thing drying. The barometer fluctuated a little on 
either side of 28,6. On the 18th, the temperature, which had ris- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 289 

en gradually as we advanced to the southward, was twenty degrees 
higher than it was the day we left Kotzebue Sound— a change which 
was sensibly felt, 

On the 21st we came within sight of the island of St. Paul, the 
northern island of a small groupe, which, though long known to 
English geographers, has been omitted in some of our most esteem- 
ed modern charts. The groupe consists of three islands named 
St. George's, St. Paul's, and Sea-otter. We saw only the two lat- 
ter in this passage, but in the following year passed near to the other, 
and on the opposite side of St. Paul's to that on which our course 
was directed at this time. The islands of St. Paul and St. George 
are both high, with bold shores, and without any port, though there 
is said to be anchoring-ground off both, and soundings in the offing 
at moderate depths. At a distance of twenty-five miles from Sea- 
otter Island, in the direction of N. 37° W. (true), and in latitude 
59° 22' N., we had fifty-two fathoms hard ground ; after this, pro- 
ceeding southward, the water deepens. St. Paul's is distinguished 
by three small peaks, which, one of them in particular, have the 
appearance of craters ; St. George's consists of two hills, united by 
moderately high ground, and is higher than St. Paul's; both were 
covered with a brown vegetation. Sea-otter Island is very small, 
and little better than a rock. The Russians have long had settle- 
ments upon both the large islands, subordinate to the establishment 
at Sitka, and annually send thither for peltry, consisting principally 
of the skins of amphibious animals, which, from their fine furry 
nature, are highly valued by the Chinese and Tartar nations. 

At sunset we lost sight of St. Paul's Island, and being at that 
time ignorant of the position of St. George's, further than what 
knowledge was derived from a rough notice of it in the geological 
account of Kotzebue's Voyage, we pursued our course with some 
anxiety, as the night was dark and unsettled, and the morning came 
without our obtaining a sight of the island. On approaching the 
Aleutian Islands, we found them obscured by a dense white haze, 
which hung to windward of the land ; and the wind increasing with 
every appearance of a gale, our situation became one of great dif- 
ficulty. Early in the morning, a peak was seen for so short a time 
that it only served to show us that we were not far from the land, 
without enabling us to determine which of the islands we were near ; 
and as in this part of the Aleutian Chain there are several passages 
so close together, that one may easily be mistaken for the other, an 
accurate knowledge of the position of the ship is of the greatest im- 
portance. Under our circumstances, I relied on the accuracy of 
Cook's chart, and steered due east, knowing that if land were seen 
in that parallel, it could be no other than the island of Oonemak ; 

37 



290 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

and that then, should the fog not clear away, the course might still 
be directed along that island to the southward. 

This is a precaution I strongly recommend to any person who 
may have to seek a channel through this chain in foggy weather, 
particularly as these passages are said to be rendered dangerous by 
the rapid tides which set through them. It was no doubt these 
tides, added to the prevalence of fogs, that caused many of the mis- 
fortunes which befel the early Russian navigators. ShelekofT, in 
speaking of the strait to the westward of Oonemak, through which 
we passed, observes that it is free from the danger of rocks and 
shoals, but is troubled with a strong current. In our passage through 
it, however, we did not remark that this was the case ; but no doubt 
there are just grounds for the observation.* 

After running five miles, breakers were seen upon both bows, and, 
at the same time, very high cliffs above them. We stood on a lit- 
tle further, and then, satisfied that the land must be that of Oone- 
mak, bore up along it, and passed through the strait. We had no 
soundings with forty fathoms of line until we were about four miles 
off the S. W. end of the island ; and there we found thirty fathoms 
on a bank of dark-coloured lava, pebbles and scorias, but immedi- 
ately lost it again, and had no bottom afterwards. The south-west 
angle of Oonemak is distinguished by a wedge-shaped cape, with a 
pointed rock off it. This cape and the island of Coogalga form the 
narrowest part of the strait, which is nine miles and a half across. 
Coogalga is about four miles long, and rendered very conspicuous 
by a peak on its N. E. extremity. Acouan, the island to the north- 
ward of this, which also forms part of the strait, is high and remar- 
kable ; but on this occasion we did not see it, in consequence of the 
bright haze that hung over the hills on the northern part of the 
chain. 

Oonemak was the only island upon which snow was observed. 
Its summit was capped about one-third down, even with a line of 
. clouds which formed a canopy over the northern half of the groupe. 
The limits of this canopy were so well defined, that in passing 
through the strait on one side of us there was a dense fog, while on 
the other the sun was shining bright from a cloudless sky. 

As soon as we had fairly entered the Pacific the wind abated, 
and we had a fine clear night, as if in passing through the chain 
that divides the Kamschatka Sea from the Pacific we had left be- 
hind us the ungenial climate of the former. Shortly after dark 
flashes were observed in the heavens, in the direction of the burn- 
ing mountain of Alaska, sometimes so strong as to be mistaken for 

* I afterwards learned from a very respectable master of an American brig - , that 
in passing through the strait to the westward of Oonalaska, he experienced a cur- 
rent running to the northward at the rate of six miles an hour, and was unable to 
stem it. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 291 

sheet lightning, at others very confined ; viewed with a telescope, 
they appeared to consist entirely of bright sparks. They seemed 
to proceed from different parts of a long narrow cloud elevated 8°, 
and lying in the direction of the wind. Our distance from the vol- 
cano at this time was about seventy miles, and as similar flashes 
were observed in this place the following year, it is very probable 
they were caused by an eruption. This mountain, I am informed, 
has burnt lately with great activity, and has been truncated much 
lower than is represented in the drawings of it in Captain Cook's 
Voyage.* 

After clearing the Aleutian Chain, we had the winds from the 
westward, and made rapid progress towards our port. The first 
part of the passage was remarkable for heavy rolling seas, misty 
weather, and a low barometer, which varied a little each side of 
28,5 ; in the latter part of the passage we had dry foggy weather, 
and the barometer was at 30,5. 

On the 5th of November we made the high land of New Albion 
about Bodega, and soon afterwards saw Punta de los Reyes, a re- 
markable promontory, from which the general line of coast turns 
abruptly to the eastward, and leads to the port of St. Francisco. 

We stood to the southward during the night, and about three 
o'clock in the morning unexpectedly struck soundings upon a clayey 
bank in 35 fathoms very near the Farallones, a dangerous cluster 
of rocks, which, until better known, ought to be avoided. The 
ship was put about immediately ; but the next cast was 25 fathoms 
in so stiff a clay that the line was broken. The weather was very 
misty, and a long swell rolled towards the reefs, which, had there 
been less wind, would have obliged us to anchor ; but we increased 
our distance from them, and deepened the water. This cluster of 
rocks is properly divided into two parts, of which the south-eastern 
is the largest and the highest, and may be seen nine or ten leagues 
in clear weather. The most dangerous part is apparently towards 
the north-west. 

The next evening we passed Punta de los Reyes, and awaited 
the return of day off some white cliffs, which, from their being sit- 
uated so near the parallel of 38° N. are in all probability those 
which induced Sir Francis Drake to bestow upon this country the 
name of New Albion. They appear on the eastern side of a bay 
too exposed to authorize the conjecture of Vancouver, that it is the 
same in which Sir Francis refitted his vessel. 

* See also Kotzebue's Voyage, vol. iii. p 283, 



292 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov . 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Arrive at San Francisco — Description of the Harbour, Presidio, and the missions — 
Occupations — Dissatisfied State of the Garrison and the Priesthood — Contempla- 
ted Plan of settling the Indians in the Missions — Occupations of the converted 
Indians — Manner of making- converts — Expedition against the Tribe of Coseme- 
nes — Official Despatch — Overland Journey to Monterey — Scarcity of Provisions 
at that place — Plan of the voyage altered in consequence — Departure. 

When the day broke, we found ourselves about four miles from 
the land. It was a beautiful morning, with just sufficient freshness 
in the air to exhilarate without chilling. The tops of the moun- 
tains, the only part of the land visible, formed two ranges, between 
which our port was situated ; though its entrance, as well as the val- 
leys and the low lands, were still covered with the morning mist con- 
densed around the bases of the mountains. We bore up for the 
opening between the ranges, anxious for the rising sun to withdraw 
the veil, that we might obtain a view of the harbour, and form our 
judgment of the country in which we were about to pass the next 
few weeks. As we advanced, the beams of the rising sun gradual- 
ly descended the hills, until the mist, dispelled from the land, roll- 
ed on before the refreshing sea wind, discovering cape after cape 
and exhibiting a luxuriant country apparently abounding in wood 
and rivers. At length two low promontories, the southern one 
distinguished by a fort and a Mexican flag, marked the narrow en- 
trance of the port. 

We spread our sails with all the anxiety of persons who had long 
been secluded from civilized society, and deprived of wholesome 
aliment ; but after the first effort of the breeze, it died away and left 
us becalmed in a heavy N. W. swell. 

Off the harbour of San Francisco there is a bar which extends 
from the northern shore, gradually deepening its water until it ap- 
proaches the peninsula on the opposite side *, where nine fathoms 
may be carried over it. Of this bar, however, we were ignorant, 
and naturally steered directly for the harbour, in doing which the 

* The best part for crossing ia with the island of Alcatrasses in one with the fort. 



1826.] AND BEERING'S 6TRAIT. 293 

depth of water gradually diminished to five fathoms. This would 
have been of no consequence, had it not been for a swell which 
rolled so heavily over the bank that it continually broke ; and though 
our depth of water was never less than four and a half fathoms, the 
ship on two or three occasions disturbed the sand with her keel. 
The tide was unfortunately against us, and the swell propelled the 
ship just sufficiently fast for her to steer without gaining any ground, 
so that we remained in this unpleasant situation several hours. 

At length a breeze sprung up and we entered the port, and drop- 
ped our anchor in the spot where Vancouver had moored his ship 
thirty-three years before. As we passed the entrance, a heavy 
sea rolling violently upon a reef of rocks on our left * bespoke the 
danger of approaching that side too close in light or baffling winds ; 
while some scattered rocks with deep water round them skirting the 
shore on our right, marked that side also as dangerous ; so that the 
entrance may be justly considered difficult. Beyond these rocks, 
however, near the fort, there is a bay in which if necessary, ships 
may drop their anchor. 

The fort, which we passed upon our right, mounts nine guns, and 
is built upon a promontory on the south side of the entrance, appa- 
rently so near to the precipice, that one side will, before long, be 
precipitated over it by the gradual breaking away of the rock. Its 
situation, nevertheless, is good, as regards the defence of the en- 
trance ; but it is commanded by a rising ground behind it. As we 
passed, a soilder protruded a speaking-trumpet through one of the 
embrasures, and hailed us with a stentorian voice, but we could not 
distinguish what was said. This custom of hailing vessels has aris- 
en from there being no boat belonging to the garrison, and the in- 
convenience felt by the governor, in having to wait for a report of 
arrivals, until the masters of the vessels could send their boats on 
shore. 

The port of San Francisco does not show itself to advantage un- 
til after the fort is passed, when it breaks upon the view, and forci- 
bly impresses the spectator with the magnificence of the harbour. 
He then beholds a broad sheet of water, sufficiently extensive to 
contain all the British navy, with convenient coves, anchorage in 
every part, and, around, a country diversified with hill and dale, 
partly wooded, and partly disposed in pasture lands of the richest 
kind, abounding in herds of cattle. In short, the only objects want- 
ing to complete the interest of the scene are some useful establish- 
ments and comfortable residences on the grassy borders of the har- 
bour, the absence of which creates an involuntary regret, that so 
fine a country, abounding in all that is essential to man, should be 

* This rtef lies three quarters of a mile from Punta Boneta. 



294 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

allowed to remain in such a state of neglect. So poorly did the 
place appear to be peopled that a sickly column of smoke rising 
from within some dilapidated walls, misnamed the presidio or pro- 
tection, was the only indication we had of the country being inhab- 
ited. 

The harbour streches to the S. E. to the distance of thirty miles, 
and affords a water communication between the missions of San Jose, 
Santa Clara, and the presidio, which is built upon a peninsula about 
five miles in width. On the north the harbour is contracted to a 
strait, which communicates with a basin ten miles wide, with a chan- 
nel across it sufficiently deep for frigates, though they cannot come 
near the land on account of the mud. A creek on the N. W. side 
of this basin leads up to the new mission of San Francisco Solano ; 
and a strait to the eastward named Estrecho de Karquines, communi- 
cates with another basin into which three rivers discharge themselves, 
and bring down so large a body of water that the estrecho is from 
ten to eleven fathoms deep. These rivers are named Jesus Maria, 
El Sacramento, and San Joachin : the first, I was informed, takes a 
northerly direction, passes at the back of Bodega, and extends be- 
yond Cape Mendocino. El Sacramento trends to the N. E., and 
is said to have its rise in the rocky mountains near the source of 
the Columbia. The other, San Joachin, stretches to the south- 
ward through the country of the'Bolbones, and is divided from the 
S. E., arm of the harbour by a range of mountains. 

When Langsdorff was at this port, an expedition was undertaken 
by Don Louis Arguello and Padre Uria to make converts, and to 
enquire into the nature of the country in the vicinity of Sierra neva- 
da ; and I learned from Don Louis, I believe a son of the comman- 
der, that they traced the Sacramento severity or eighty leagues up, 
and that it was there very wide and deep, but that he had no boat 
to ascertain its depth. The Padre had it in contemplation to form 
a settlement in that direction, which he thought would become very 
rich in a short time by the number of Indians who would flock to it ; 
but as it was never done, I presume he found material obstatcles to 
his design. 

As we opened out the several islands and stopping places in the 
harbour, we noticed seven American whalers at anchor at Sausalito, 
not one of which showed their colours ; we passed them and anchor- 
ed off" a small bay named Yerba Buena, from the luxuriance of its 
vegetation, about a league distant from both the presidio and the 
mission of San Francisco. I immediately went on shore to pay my 
respects to Don Ignacio Martinez, a lieutenant in the Mexican ar- 
my, acting governor in the absence of Don Louis, and to the priest, 
whose name was Tomaso, both of whom gave me a very hospitable 
and friendly reception, and offered their services in any way they 



S 



1826.] and beering's strait. 295 

might be required. Our first inquiries naturally related to supplies, 
which we were disappointed" to find not at all equal to what had 
been reported ; in short, it seemed that with the exception of flour, 
fresh beef, vegetables, and salt, which might be procured through 
the missions, we should have to depend upon American vessels for 
whatever else we might want, or upon what might chance to be in 
store at Monterey, a port of more importance than San Francisco, 
and from being the residence of a branch of a respectable firm in Li- 
ma, better supplied with the means of refitting vessels after a long 
sea voyage. 

It was evident from this report that the supplies were likely to 
be very inadequate to our wants ; but that no opportunity of obtain- 
ing them might be lost, I despatched Mr. Collie the surgeon, and 
Mr. Marsh the pursuer, overland to Monterey, with Mr. Evans 
as interpreter, with orders to procure for the ship what medicines, 
provisions, and other stores were to be had, and to negotiate gov- 
ernment bills, on which the exchange was far more more favourable 
there than at the Sandwich Islands. The governor politely furn- 
ished a passport and a guard for this service ; and our hospitable 
friend Tomaso, the padre of the mission, provided horses lor them 
free of any charge. In the mean time we arranged with a relation 
of the governor for the daily supply of the ship's company, an ar- 
rangement which it afterwards appeared increased the jealousy that 
had long existed between the presidio and the missions, by transfer- 
ring to the pocket of the commandant the profits that would other- 
wise have been reaped by the padre. 

We were happy to find the country round our anchorage abound- 
ing in game of all kinds, so plentiful, indeed, as soon to lessen the 
desire of pursuit ; still there were many inducements to both the of- 
ficers and seamen to land and enjoy themselves ; and as it was for 
the benefit of the service that they should recruit their health and 
strength as soon as possible, every facility was afforded them. 
Horses were fortunetely very cheap, from nine shillings to seven 
pounds apiece, so that riding became a favourite amusement ; and 
the Spaniards finding they could make a good market by letting out 
their stud, appeared with them every Sunday opposite the ship, 
ready saddled for the occasion, as this was a day on which I allow- 
ed every man to go out of the ship. Some of the officers purchas- 
ed horses and tethered them near the place, but the Spaniards find- 
ing this to interfere with their market, contrived to let them loose 
on Saturday night, in order that the officers might be compelled to 
hire others on the following day. The only obstacle to the enjoy- 
ment of this amusement was the scarcity of saddles and bridles, some 
of which cost ten times as much as a decent horse. The ingenuity 
of the seamen generally obviated these difficulties, while some bor- 



296 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

rowed or hired saddles of the natives : for my own part, I purchas- 
ed a decent looking horse for about thirty-five shillings sterling, and 
on my departure presented it to a Spaniard, who had lent me the 
necessary accoutrements for it during my stay, which answered the 
purpose of both parties, as he was pleased with his present, and I 
had my ride for about a shilling a day : a useful hint to persons who 
may be similarly circumstanced, 

Such of the seamen as would not venture on horse back made 
parties to visit the presidio and mission, where they found themselves 
welcome guests with the Spanish soldiers. These two places were 
the only buildings within many miles of us, and they fortunately 
supplied just enough spirits to allow the people to enjoy themselves 
with their friends, without indulging in much excess — a very great 
advantage in a seaport. 

The roads leading to these two great places of attraction in a short 
time became well beaten, and that to the mission very much im- 
proved, by having the boughs removed which before overhung it. 
It was at first in contemplation to hire a Spaniard to lop them ; but 
our pioneers, who stopped at nothing, soon tore them all away, 
except one, a large stump, which resisted every attack, and unhor- 
sed several of its assailants. 

Martinez was always glad to see the officers at the presidio, and 
made them welcome to what he had. Indeed, nothing seemed to 
give him greater pleasure than our partaking of his family dinner ; 
the greater part of which was dressed by his wife and daughters, who 
prided themselves on their proficiency in the art of cooking. It was 
not, however, entirely for the satisfaction of presenting us with a 
well-prepared repast that they were induced to indulge in this hum- 
ble occupation : poor Martinez had a very numerous offspring to pro- 
vide for out of his salary, which was then eleven years in arrears. 
He had a sorry prospect before him, as, a short time previous to our 
visit, the government, by way of paying up these arrears, sent a 
brig with a cargo of paper cigars to be issued to the troops in lieu 
of dollars ; but, as Martinez justly observed, cigars would not satis- 
fy the families of the soldiers, and the compromise was refused. 
The cargo was, however, landed at Monterey and placed under the 
charge of the governor, where all other tobacco is contraband ; and 
as the Spaniards are fond of smoking, it stands a fair chance, in the 
course of time, of answering the intention of the government, par- 
ticularly as the troops apply for these oftener than they otherwise 
would, under the impression of clearing off a score of wages that 
will never be settled in any manner. Fortunately for Martinez and 
other veterans in this country, both vegetable and animal food are 
uncommonly cheap, and there are no fashions to create any expense 
of dress. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 297 

The governor's abode was in a corner of the presidio, and form- 
ed one end of a row, of which the other was occupied by a chapel; 
the opposite side was broken down, and little better than a heap 
of rubbish and bones, on which jackals, dogs, and vultures were 
constantly preying, the other two sides of the quandrangle contain- 
ed storehouses, artificer's shops, and the goal, all built in the 
humblest style with badly burnt bricks, and roofed with tiles. The 
chapel and the governor's house were distinguished by being white- 
washed. 

Whether viewed at a distance or near, the establishment impresses 
a spectator with any other sentiment than that of its being a place 
of authority ; and but for a tottering flag-staff, upon which was oc- 
casionally displayed the tri-coloured flag of Mexico, three rusty field 
pieces, and a half accoutred centinel parading the gateway in charge 
of a few poor wretches heavily shakled, a visitor would be ignorant 
of the importance of the place. The neglect of the government to 
its establishments could not be more thouroughly evinced than in 
the dilapidated condition of the building in question ; and such was 
the dissatisfaction of the people that there was no inclination to im- 
prove their situation, or even to remedy many of the evils which 
they appeared to us to have the power to remove. 

The plain upon which the presidio stands is well adapted to cul- 
tivation ; but it is scarcely ever touched by the plough, and the 
garrison is entirely beholden to the mission for its resources. Each 
soldier has nominally about three pounds a month, out of which he 
is obliged to purchase his provision. If the governor were active, 
and the means were supplied, the country in the vicinity of the es- 
tablishment might be made to yield enough wheat and vegetables 
for the troops, by which they would save that portion of their pay 
which now goes to the purchase of these necessary articles. 

The garrison of San Francisco consists of seventy-six cavalry sol- 
diers and a few artillerymen, distributed between the presidios and 
the missions, and consequently not more than half a dozen are at 
any time in one place. 

They appeared to us to be very dissatisfied, owing not only to 
their pay being so many years in arrear, but to the duties which had 
been imposed both on the importation of foreign articles, and on those 
of the Mexican territory, amounting in the first instance to forty-two 
and a half per cent; whereas under the old government,two ships were 
annually sent from Acapulco with goods, which were sold duty free, 
and at their original cost in that country, and then, also, their pay 
being regularly discharged, they were able to purchase what they 
wanted. A further grievance has arisen by the refusal of the gov- 
ernment to continue certain privileges which were enjoyed under 
the old system. At that time soldiers entered for a term of ten 

38 



£98 



VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 



years, at the expiration of which they were allowed to retire to the Pue- 
blos — villages erected for this purpose, and attached to the missions, 
where the men have a portion - of ground allotted to them for the 
support of their families. This afforded a competency to many; 
and while it benefited them, it was of service to the government, as 
the country by that means became settled, and its security increas- 
ed. But this privilege has latterly been witheld, and the applicants 
have been allowed only to possess the land and feed their cattle 
upon it, until it shall please the government to turn them off. The 
reason of this, I believe, was that Mexico was beginning to turn her 
attention to California, and was desirous of having settlers there 
from the southern districts, to whom it would be necessary to give 
lands; and until they could see what would be required for this pur- 
pose and for the government establishments, and had the limits of 
the property already allotted defined, they did not wish to make any 
new grants. The real cause, however, was not explained to the 
soldiers ; they merely heard that they would not have the land ce- 
ded to them for life as usual, and they were consequently much 
dissatisfied. 

The same feeling of discontent that was experienced by the gar- 
rison, pervaded the missions, in consequence of some new regula- 
tions of the republican government, the first and most grievous of 
which was the discontinuance of a salary of 400 dollars per annum, 
heretofore allowed to each of the padres : the support the former 
government, had given to the missions amounted, according to Langs- 
dorfF, to a million piastres a year. Another grievance was, the 
requisition of an oath of allegiance to the reigning authorities, which 
these holy men considered so egregious a violation of their former 
pledge to the king of Spain, that, until he renounced his sovereignty 
over the country, they could not conscientiosly take it; and, much 
as they were attached to the place in which they had passed a large 
portion of their lives, and though by quitting it they would be redu- 
ced to the utmost penury — yet, so much did they regard this pledge 
that they were prepared to leave the country, and to seek an asylum 
in any other that would afford it them. Indeed, the Prefect, prefer- 
ring his expulsion to renouncing his allegiance, had already received 
his dismissal, and was ready at the seaport of Monterey to embark 
in any vessel the government might appoint to receve him. A 
third greivance, and one which, when duly considered, was of some 
importance, not only to the missions but to the country in general, 
was an order to liberate all those converted Indians from the mis- 
sions who bore good characters, and had been taught the art of ag- 
riculture, or were masters of a trade, and were capable of suppor- 
ting themselves, giving them portions of land to cultivate, so arran- 
ged that they should be divided into parishes, with curates to super- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 299 

intend them, subservient to the clergy of the missions, who were to 
proceed to the conversion of the Indians as usual, and to train them 
for the domesticated state of society in contemplation. 

This philanthropic system at first sight appeared to be a very 
excellent one, and every friend to the rights of man would naturally 
join in a wish for its prosperity ; but the Mexican government could 
not have sufficiently considered the state of California, and the dis- 
position of the Indians, or they would have known it could not pos- 
sibly succeed without long previous training, and then it would re- 
quire to be introduced by slow degrees. 

The Indians whom this law emancipated were essential to the 
support of the missions, not only for conducting their agricultural 
concerns, but for keeping in subordination by force and example 
those whom disobedience and ignorance would exempt from the pri- 
vilege ; and as a necessary consequence of this indulgence the mis- 
sions would be ruined before the system could be brought into 
effect, even supposing the Indians capable of conducting their own 
affairs. So far from this being the case, however, they were known 
to possess neither the will, the steadiness, nor the patience to pro- 
vide for themselves. Accustomed, many of them from their infan- 
cy, to as much restraint as children, and to execute, mechanically, 
what they were desired and no more, without even entertaining a 
thought for their future welfare, it was natural that such persons, 
when released from this discipline, should abandon themselves en- 
tirely to their favourite amusements, pastimes, and vices. Those 
also who had been converted in later life would return to their for- 
mer habits, and having once again tasted the blessings of freedom, 
which confinement and discipline must have rendered doubly desir- 
able, would forget all restraint, and then being joined by the wild 
discontented Indians, they would be more formidable enemies to the 
missions than before, inasmuch as they would be more enlightened. 
But I will not anticipate the result, which we had an opportunity 
of seeing on our return the following year ; and from which the 
reader will be able to judge how the system worked. 

The padres, however, dreading the worst, were very discontent- 
ed, and many would willingly have quitted that country for Manilla. 
The government appeared to be aware of this feeling, as they sent 
some young priests from Mexico to supplant those who were disaf- 
fected, and desired that they should be trained up in the mission, 
and should make themselves acquainted with the language and usa- 
ges of the Indians, in order that they might not promote discontent 
by any sudden innovation. 

The missions have hitherto been of the highest importance to 
California, and the government cannot be too careful to promote 
their welfare, as the prosperity of the country in a great measure is 



300 



VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC 



[Nov. 



dependent upon them, and must continue to be so until settlers 
from the mother country can be induced to resort thither. As they 
are of such consequence, I shall enter somewhat minutely into a 
description of them. In Upper California there are twenty-one of 
these establishments, of which nine are attached to the presidios of 
Monterey and San Francisco, and contain about 7000 converts. 
They are in order as follow from north to south : — 

Converts. 

San Francisco Solano estab- ) lg about 100Q 
lished in 5 

1817 - 250 

1776 - 260 
1797 - 1800 

1777 - 1500 
1797 - 300 
1797 - 1100 
1770 - 200 
_ 300 






San Raphael 
San Francisco 
San Jose 
Santa Clara 
. ( Santa Cruz 
S J San Juan 
I J San Carlos 
% l^La Soledad 



San Antonio 
San Miguel 
San Luis 
De la Purissima 
Santa Ignes 
Santa Barbara 



3000 



6910 

Buena Vistura 

San Fernando 

San Gabriel 

San Juan Capistram 

San Luis Rey 

San Tomaso 

I could no learn the number of Indians which are in each of the 
missions to the southward of Soledad, but they were stated collec- 
tively to amount to 20,000 : on this head I must observe that the 
padres either would not say, or did not know exactly, how many 
there were, even in their own missions, much less the number con- 
tained in those to the southward : and the accounts were at all 
times so various that the above computation can be only an approx- 
imation. Almost all these establishments cultivate large portions 
of land, and rear cattle, the hides and tallow of which alone form a 
small trade, of which the importance may be judged from the fact 
of a merchant at Monterey having paid 36,000 dollars in one year 
to a mission, which was not one of the largest, for its hide, tallow, 
and Indian labour. Though the system they pursue is not calcula- 
ted to raise the colony to any great prosperity, yet the neglect of 
the missions would not long precede the ruin of the presidios, and 
of the whole of the district. Indeed, with the exception of two 
pueblos, containing about seven hundred persons, and a few farm 
houses widely scattered over the country, there are no other build- 
ings to the northward of Monterey : thus, while the missions fur- 
nish the means of subsistence to the presidios, the body of men 



1826.] and beebing's stbait, -301 

they contain keeps the wild Indians in check, and prevents their 
making incursions on the settlers. 

Each mission has fifteen square miles of ground allotted to it. 
The buildings are variously laid out, and adapted in size to the 
number of Indians which they contain ; some are enclosed by a 
high wall, as at San Carlos, while others consist merely of a few 
rows of huts, built with sun-burnt mud-bricks ; many are white- 
washed and tiled, and have a neat and comfortable appearance. It 
is not, however, every hut that has a white face to exhibit, as that 
in a great measure depends upon the industry and good conduct of 
the family who possess it, who are in such case supplied with lime 
for the purpose. It is only the married persons and the officers of 
the establishment who are allowed these huts, the bachelors and 
spinisters having large places of their own, where they are sepa- 
rately incarcerated every night. 

To each mission is attached a well-built church, better decorated 
in the interior than the external appearance of some would lead a 
stranger to suppose : they are well supplied with costly dresses for 
processions and feast days, to strike with admiration the sense of the 
gazing Indians, and on the whole are very respectable establish- 
ments. In some of these are a few tolerable pictures, among many 
bad ones ; and those who have been able to obtain them are always 
provided with representations of hell and paradise : the former ex- 
hibiting in the most disgusting manner all the torments the imagina- 
tTon can fancy, for the purpose of striking terror into, the simple 
Indians, who look upon the performance with fear and trembling. 
Such representations may perhaps be useful in exhibiting to the 
dull senses of the Indians what could not be conveyed in any other 
way, and so far they are desirable in the mission ; but to an Euro- 
pean the one is disgusting, and the other ludicrous. Each establish- 
ment is under the management of two priests if possible, who in 
Upper California belong to the mendicant order of San Francisco. 
They have under them a major-domo, and several subordinate offi- 
cers, generally Spaniards, whose principal business is to overlook 
the labour of the Indians. 

The object of the missions is to convert as many of the wild In- 
dians as possible, and to train them up within the walls of the estab- 
lishment in the exercise of a good life, and of some trade, so that 
they may in time be able to provide for themselves and become 
useful members of civilized society. As to the various methods 
employed for the purpose of bringing proselytes to the mission, 
there are several reports, of which some were not very creditable 
to the institution : nevertheless, on the whole I am of opinion that 
the priests are innocent, from a conviction that they are ignorant of 
the means employed by those who are under them. Whatever 



302 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

may be the system, and whether the Indians be really dragged from 
their homes and families by armed parties, as some assert, or not, 
and forced to exchange their life of freedom and wandering for one 
of confinement and restraint in the missions, the change according 
to our ideas of happiness would seem advantageous to them, as they 
lead a far better life in the missions than in their forests, where they 
are in a state of nudity, and are frequently obliged to depend solely 
upon wild acorns for their subsistence. 

Immediately the Indians are brought to the mission they are 
placed under the tuition of some of the most enlightened of their 
countrymen, who teach them to repeat in Spanish the Lord's Prayer 
and certain passages in the Romish litany ; and also to cross them- 
selves properly on entering the church. In a few days a willing 
Indian becomes a proficient in these mysteries, and suffers himself 
to be baptized, and duly initiated into the church. If, however, as 
it not unfrequently happens, any of the captured Indians show a 
repugnance to conversion, it is the practice to imprison them for a 
few days, and then to allow them to breathe a little fresh air in a 
walk round the mission, to observe the happy mode of life of their 
converted countrymen ; after which they are again shut up, and 
thus continue to be incarcerated until they declare their readiness 
to renounce the religion of their forefathers. 

I do not suppose that this apparently unjustifiable conduct would 
be pursued for any length of time ; and I had never an opportunity 
of ascertaining the fact, as the Indians are so averse to confinement 
that they very soon become impressed with the manifestly superior 
and more comfortable mode of life of those who are at liberty, and 
in a few days declare their readiness to have the new religion ex- 
plained to them. A person acquainted with the language of the 
parties, of which there are sometimes several dialects in the same 
mission, is then selected to train them, and having duly prepared 
them takes his pupils to the padre to be baptized, and to receive 
the sacrament. Having become Christians they are put to trades, 
or if they have good voices they are taught music, and form part 
of the choir of the church. Thus there are in almost every mis- 
sion weavers, tanners, shoemakers, bricklayers, carpenters, black- 
smiths, and other artificers. Others again are taught husbandry, to 
rear cattle and horses ; and some to cook for the mission : while the 
females card, clean, and spin wool, weave, and sew ; and those who 
are married attend to their domestic concerns. 

In requital of these benefits, the services of the Indian, for life, 
belong to the mission, and if any neophyte should repent of his 
apostacy from the religion of his ancestors and desert, an armed 
force is sent in pursuit of him, and drags him back to punishment 
apportioned to the degree of aggravation attached to his crime. It 



1826.] and beering's strait. 303 

does not often happen that a voluntary convert succeeds in his at- 
tempt to escape, as the wild Indians have a great contempt and dis- 
like for those who have entered the missions, and they will fre- 
quently not only refuse to re-admit them to their tribe, but will 
sometimes even discover their retreat to their pursuers. This ani- 
mosity between the wild and converted Indians is of great impor- 
tance to the missions, as it 'checks desertion, and is at the same time 
a powerful defence against the wild tribes, who consider their terri- 
tory invaded, and have other just causes of complaint. The Indi- 
ans, besides, from political motives, are, I fear, frequently encour- 
aged in a contemptuous feeling towards their unconverted country- 
men, by hearing them constantly held up to them in the degrading 
light of bestias ! and in hearing the Spaniards distinguished by the 
appellation of gente de razon. 

The produce of the land, and of the labour of the Indians, is ap- 
propriated to the support of the mission, and the overplus to amass 
a fund which is entirely at the disposal of the padres. In some of 
the establishments this must be very large, although the padres will 
not admit it, and always plead poverty. The government has lately 
demanded a part of this profit, but the priests who, it is said, think 
the Indians are more entitled to it than the government, make small 
donations to them, and thus evade the tax by taking care there 
shall be no overplus. These donations in some of the missions are 
greater than in others, according as one establishment is more pros- 
perous than another ; and on this, also, in a great measure, depends 
the comforts of the dwellings, and the neatness, the cleanliness, and 
the clothing of the people. In some of the missions much misery 
prevails, while in others there is a degree of cheerfulness and clean- 
liness which shows that many of the Indians require only care and 
proper management to make them as happy as their dull senses will 
admit of under a life of constraint. 

The two missions of San Francisco and San Jose are examples of 
the contrast alluded to. The former in 1817 contained a thousand 
converts, who were housed in small huts around the mission ; but at 
present only two hundred and sixty remain — some have been sent, 
it is true, to the new mission of San Francisco Solano, but sickness 
and death have dealt an unsparing hand among the others. The 
huts of the absentees, at the time of our visit, had all fallen to de- 
cay, and presented heaps of filth and rubbish ; while the remaining 
inmates of the mission were in as miserable a condition as it was 
possible to conceive, and were entirely regardless of their own com- 
fort. Their hovels afforded scarcely any protection against the 
weather, and were black with smoke : some of the Indians were 
sleeping on the greasy floor ; others were grinding baked acorns to 
make into cakes, which constitute a large portion of their food. So 



304 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

little attention indeed bad been paid even to health, that in one hut 
there was a quarter of beef suspended opposite a window, in a very 
offensive and unwholsome state, but its owners were too indolent to 
throw it out. San Jose, on the other hand, was all neatness, clean- 
liness, and comfort ; the Indians were amusing themselves between 
the hours of labour at their games ; and the children uniformly- 
dressed in white bodices and scarlet petticoats, were playing at bat 
and ball. Part of this difference may arise from the habits of the 
people, who are of different tribes. Langsdorff observes, that the 
Indians of the mission of San Jose are the handsomest tribe in Cal- 
ifornia, and in every way a finer race of men ; and terms the neo- 
phytes of San Francisco pigmies compared with them. I cannot 
say that this remark occurred to me, and I think it probable that he 
may have been deceived by the apparently miserable condition of 
the people of San Francisco. 

The children and adults of both sexes, in all the missions, are 
carefully locked up every night in separate apartments, and the keys 
are delivered into the possession of the padre ; and as in the day- 
time, their occupations lead to distinct places, unless they form a 
matrimonial alliance, they enjoy very little of each other's society. 
It, however, sometimes happens that they endeavour to evade the 
vigilance of their keepers, and are locked up with the opposite sex ; 
but severe corporeal punishment, inflicted in the same manner as is 
practised in our schools, but with a whip instead of a rod, is sure to 
ensue if they are discovered. Though there may be occasional 
acts of tyranny, yet the general character of the padres is kind and 
benevolent, and in some of the missions, the converts are so much 
attached to them that I have heard them declare they would go 
with them, if they were obliged to quit the country. It is greatly 
to be regretted that, with the influence these men have over their 
pupils, and with the regard those pupils seem to have for their mas- 
ters, the priests do not interest themselves a little more in the edu- 
cation of their converts, the first step to which would be in making 
themselves acquainted with the Indian language. Many of the In- 
dians surpass their pastors in this respect, and can speak the Spanish 
language, while scarcely one of the padres can make themselves un- 
derstood by the Indians. They have besides, in general, a lament- 
able contempt for the intellect of these simple people, and think 
them incapable of improvement beyond a certain point. Notwith- 
standing this, the Indians are,in general, well clothed and fed ; they 
have houses of their own, and if they are not comfortable, it is, in a 
great measure, their own fault ; their meals are given to them three 
times a day, and consist of thick gruel made of wheat, Indian corn, 
and sometimes acorns, to which at noon is generally added meat. 
Clothing of a better kind than that worn by the Indians is given to 



1826.] and beering's strait. 305 

the officers of the missions, both as a reward for their services, and 
to create an emulation in others. 

If it should happen that there is a scarcitv of provisions, either 
through failure in the crop, or damage of that which is in store, as 
they have always two or three years in reserve, the Indians are sent 
off to the woods to provide for themselves, where, accustomed to 
hunt and fish, and game being very abundant, they find enough to 
subsist upon, and return to the mission when they are required to 
reap the next year's harvest. 

Having served ten years in the mission, an Indian may claim his 
liberty, provided any respectable settler will become surety for his 
future good conduct. A piece of ground is then alloted for his sup- 
port, but he is never free from the establishment, as part of his earn- 
ings must still be given to them. We heard of very few to whom 
this reward for servitude and good conduct had been granted ; and 
it is not improbable that the padres are averse to it, as it deprives 
them of their best scholars. When these establishments were first 
founded, the Indians flocked to them in great numbers for the clothing 
with which the neophytes were supplied ; but after they became ac- 
quainted with the nature of the institution, and felt themselves un- 
der restraint, many absconded. Even now, notwithstanding the 
difficulty of escaping, desertions are of frequent occurrence, owing 
probably, in some cases, to the fear of punishment — mothers to the 
deserters having been originally inveigled into the mission by the 
converted Indians or the neophytes, as they are called by way of 
distinction to Los Gentiles, or the wild Indians — in other cases 
again to the fickleness of their own disposition. 

Some of the converted Indians are occasionally stationed in places 
which are resorted to by the wild tribes for the purpose of offering 
them flattering accounts of the advantages of the mission, and of per- 
suading them to abandon their barbarous life ; while others obtain 
leave to go into the territory of the Gentiles to visit their friends, 
and are expected to bring back converts with them when they re- 
turn. At a particular period of the year, also, when the Indians 
can be spared from the agricultural concerns of the establishment, 
many of them are permitted to take the launch of the mission, and 
make excursions to the Indian territory. All are anxious to go on 
such occasions, some to visit their friends, some to procure the 
manufactures of their barbarous countrymen, which, by the by, are 
often better than their own ; and some with the secret determina- 
tion never to return. On these occasions the padres desire them 
to induce as many of their unconverted brethren as possible to ac- 
company them back to the mission, of course implying that this is 
to be done only by persuasions ; but the boat being furnished with 
a cannon and musketry, and in every respect equipped for war, it 

39 



306 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

too often happens that the neophytes, and the gente de razon, who 
superintend the direction of the boat, avail themselves of their su- 
periority, with the desire of ingratiating themselves with their mas- 
ters, and of receiving a reward. There are, besides, repeated acts 
of aggression which it is necessary to punish, all of which furnish 
proselytes. Women and children are generally the first objects of 
capture, as their husbands and parents sometimes voluntarily follow 
them into captivity. These misunderstandings and captivities keep 
up a perpetual enmity amongst the tribes, whose thirst for revenge 
is almost insatiable. 

We had an opportunity of witnessing the tragical issue of one of 
these holyday excursions of the neophytes of the mission of San 
Jose. The launch was armed as usual, and placed under the su- 
perintendance of an alcalde of the mission, who it appears from one 
statement(for there are several, )converted the party of pleasure either 
into one of attack for the purpose of procuring proselytes, or of revenge 
upon a particular tribe for some aggression in which they were con- 
cerned. They proceeded up the Rio San Joachin until they came 
to the territory of a particular tribe named Cosemenes, when they 
disembarked with the gun, and encamped for the night near the vil- 
lage of Los Gentiles, intending to make an' attack upon them the 
next morning ; but before they were prepared, the Gentiles, who 
had been apprised of their intention, and had collected a large body 
of friends, became the assailants, and pressed so hard upon the par- 
ty that, notwithstanding they deal death in every direction with 
their cannon and musketry, and were inspired with confidence by 
the contempt in which they held the valour and tactics of their un- 
converted countrymen, they were overpowered by numbers, and 
obliged to seek their safety in flight, and to leave the gun in the 
woods. Some regained the launch and were saved, and others found 
their way overland to the mission ; but thirty-four of their party 
never returned to tell their tale. 

There were other accounts of this unfortunate affair ; one of 
which accused the padre of authorizing the attack; and another sta- 
ted that it was made in self-defence : but that which I have given 
appeared to be the most probable. That the reverend father should 
have sanctioned such a proceeding is a supposition so totally at va- 
riance with his character, that it will not obtain credit ; and the 
Other was in all probability the report of the alcalde to excuse his own 
conduct. They all agreed, however, in the fatal termination of 
their excursion, and the neophytes became so enraged at the news 
of the slaughter of their companions, that it was almost impossible 
to prevent them from proceeding forthwith to revenge their deaths. 
The padre was also greatly displeased at the result of the excursion, 
as the loss of so many Indians to the mission was of the greatest 



1826.] and beering's strait. 307 

consequence, and the confidence with which the victory would in- 
spire the Indians was equally alarming. He, therefore, joined with 
the converted Indians in a determination to chastise and strike ter- 
ror into the victorious tribe, and in concert with the governor plan- 
ned an expedition against them. The mission furnished money, 
arms, Indians, and horses and the presidio provided troops, headed 
by the alferez, Sanchez, a veteran who had been frequently enga- 
ged with the Indians, and was acquainted with every part of the 
country. The troops carried with them their armour and shields, 
as a defence against the arrows of the Indians : the armour consisted 
of a helmet and jerkin made of stout skins, quite impenetrable to an 
arrow, and the shield might almost vie with that of Ajax in the 
number of its folds. 

The expedition set out on the 19th of November, and we heard 
nothing of it until the 27th ; but two days after the troops had tak- 
en the field, some immense columns of the smoke rising above the 
mountains in the direction of the Cosemenes, bespoke the confla- 
gration of the village of the persecuted Gentiles. And on the day 
above-mentioned, the veteran Sanchez made a triumphant entry in- 
to the mission of San Jose, escorting forty miserable women and 
children, the gun that had been taken in the first battle, and other 
trophies of the field. This victory, so glorious, according to the 
ideas of the conqueror, was achieved with the loss of only one man 
on the part of the Christians, who was mortally wounded by the 
bursting of his own gun; but on the part of the enemy it was consid- 
erable, as Sanchez the morning after the battle counted forty-one 
men, women and children, dead. It is remarkable that none of the 
prisoners were wounded, and it is greatly to be feared that the 
Christians, who could scarcely be prevented from revenging the 
death of their relations upon those who were brought to the 
mission, glutted their brutal passion on all the wounded who fell in- 
to their hands. The despatch which the alferez wrote to his com- 
manding officer on the occasion of this successful termination of his 
expedition, will convey the best idea of what was executed, and 
their manner of conducting such an assault. 

Translation — " Journal kept by citizen Jose Antonio Sanchez, 
ensign of cavalry of the presidio of San Francisco, during the enter- 
prise against the Gentiles, called Cosemenes, for having put to 
death the neophytes of the mission of San Jose." Written with 
gunpowder on the field of battle ! 

" On the morning of the 20th the troop commenced its march, 
and, after stopping to dine at Las Positas, reached the river San 
Joachin at eleven o'clock at night, when it halted. This day's 
march was performed without any accident, except that neighbour 
Jose Ancha was nearly losing his saddle. The next day the alfe- 



308 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

rez determined to send forward the ' auxiliary neophytes' to con- 
struct balsas * for the troop to pass a river that was in advance of 
them. The troop followed, and all crossed in safety ; but among 
the last of the horses that forded the river was one belonging to sol- 
dier Leandro Flores, who lost his bridle, threw his rider, and kick- 
ed him in the face and forehead ; and as poor Flores could not 
swim, he was in a fair way of losing his life before he came within 
sight of the field of battle: assistance was speedily rendered, and 
he was saved. As Sanchez wished to surprise the enemy, he en- 
camped until dusk, to avoid being seen of the wild Indians, who 
were travelling the country ; several of whom were met and taken 
prisoners. At five they resumed their march ; but neighbour Ghex- 
bano Chaboya being taken ill with a pain in his stomach, there was 
a temporary halt of the army : it however soon set forward again, 
and arrived at the river of Yachicume at eleven at night, with only 
one accident, occasioned by the horse of neighbour Leandro Flores 
again throwing up his heels, and giving him a formidable fall. 

" The troop lay in ambush until five o'clock the next evening, 
and then set out ; but here they were distressed by two horses run- 
ning away ; they were however both taken after a short march, 
which brought them to the river San Francisco, near the rancheria 
of their enemy the Cosemenes, and where the alferez commanded 
his troops to prepare for battle, by putting on their cueros, or armour. 
The 23d the troops divided, and one division was sent round to in- 
tercept the Cosemenes, who had discovered the Christians, and were 
retreating ; some of whom they made prisoners, and immediately 
the firing began. It had lasted about and hour, when the musket 
of soldier Jose Maria Garnez burst, and inflicted a mortal wound 
in his forehead ; but this misfortune did not hinder the other soldiers 
from firing. The Gentiles also opened their fire of arrows, and the 
skirmishing became general. Towards noon a shout was heard in 
the north quarter, and twenty Gentiles were seen skirmishing with 
three Christians, two on foot and one on horseback, and presently 
another shout was heard, and the Christians were seen flying, 
and the Gentiles in pursuit of them, who had already captured the 
horse. 

" It was now four o'clock, and the alferez, seeing that the Gen- 
tiles, who were in ambush, received little injury, disposed every 
thing for the retreat of the troops, and having burnt the rancheria, 
and seen some dead bodies, he retreated three quarters of a league, 
and encamped for the night. On the 24th the troops divided into 
two parties, one charged with booty and prisoners amounting to for- 
ty-four souls, mostly women. 

* These are rafts made of rushes, and are the Indian substitute for canoes. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 309 

" The other party went with the veteran Sanchez to the ran- 
cheria, to reconnoitre the dead bodies, of which he counted forty 
one men, women, and children. They met with an old woman 
there, the only one that was left alive, who was in so miserable a 
state that they showed their compassion by taking no account of 
her. The alferez then set "out in search of the cannon that had 
been abandoned by the first expedition. The whole of the troop 
afterwards retreated, and arrived at the mission of San Jose on the 
night of the 27th." 

This truly ludicrous account of an expedition of such trifling im- 
portance might appear to require an apology for its insertion, but it 
conveys so good an idea of the opposition to be expected by any 
power which might think proper to land upon the coast of Califor- 
nia, that its omission might fairly be considered a neglect. 

The prisoners they had captured were immediately enrolled in 
the list of the mission, except a nice little boy, whose mother was 
shot while running away with him in her arms, and he was sent to 
the presidio, and was, I heard, given to the alferez as a reward for 
his services. The poor little orphan had received a slight wound 
in his forehead ; he wept bitterly at first, and refused to eat, but in 
time became reconciled to his fate. 

Those who were taken to the mission were immediately conver- 
ted, and were daily taught by the neophytes to repeat the Lord's 
prayer, and certain hymns in the Spanish language. I happened 
to visit the mission about this time, and saw these unfortunate be- 
ings under tuition : they were clothed in blankets, and arranged in 
a row before a blind Indian, who understood their dialect, and was 
assisted by an alcalde to keep order. Their tutor began by desir- 
ing them to kneel, informing them that he was going to teach them 
the names of the persons composing the Trinity, and that they were 
to repeat in Spanish what he dictated. 

The neophytes being thus arranged, the speaker began, " San- 
tissima Trinidada, Dios, Jesu Cristo, Espiritu Santo" — pausing be- 
tween each name, to listen if the simple Indians, who had never 
spoken a Spanish word before, pronounced it correctly, or any thing 
near the mark. After they had repeated these names satisfactorily, 
their blind tutor after a pause added, " Santos" — and recapitulated 
the names of a great many saints, which finished the morning's tui- 
tion. I did not attend the next schooling to hear what was the en- 
suing task, but saw them arranged on their knees, repeating Spanish 
words as before. 

They did not appear to me to pay much attention to what was 
going forward, and I observed to the padre that I thought their 
teachers had an arduous task ; but he said they had never found 
any difficulty ; that the Indians were accustomed to change their own 



310 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

gods, and that their conversion was in a measure habitual to them. 
I could not help smiling at this reason of the padre, but have no 
doubt it was very true ; and that the party I saw would feel as little 
compunction at apostatizing again, whenever they should have an 
opportunity of returning to their own tribe. 

The expenses of the late expedition fell heavy upon the mission, 
and I was glad to find that the padre thought it was paying very 
dear for so few converts, as in all probability it will lessen his de- 
sire to undertake another expedition ; and the poor Indians will be 
spared the horrors of being butchered by their own countrymen, 
or dragged from their homes into perpetual captivity. He was also 
much concerned to think the Cosemenes had stood their ground so 
firmly, and he was under some little apprehension of an attack up- 
on the mission. Impressed with this idea, and in order to defend 
himself the more effectually, he begged me to furnish him with a 
few fireworks, which he thought would strike terror into his ene- 
mies in case of necessity. 

Morning and evening mass are daily performed in the missions, 
and high mass as it is appointed by the Romish Church, at which 
all the converted Indians are obliged to attend. The commemora- 
tion of the anniversary of the patroness saint took place during my 
visit at San Jose, and high mass was celebrated in the church. Be- 
fore the prayers began, there was a procession of the young female 
Indians, with which I was highly pleased. They were neatly 
dressed in scarlet petticoats, and white bodices, and walked in a 
very orderly manner to the church, where they had places assigned 
to them apart from the males. After the bell had done tolling, 
several alguazils went round to the huts, to see if all the Indians 
were at church, and if they found any loitering within them, they 
exercised with tolerable freedom a long lash with a broad thong at 
the end of it ; a discipline which appeared the more tyrannical, as 
the church was not sufficiently capacious for all the attendants, and 
several sat upon the steps without ; but the Indian women who had 
been captured in the affair with the Cosemenes were placed in a 
situation where they could see the costly images, and vessels of 
burning incense, and every thing that was going forward. 

The congregation was arranged:, on both sides of the building, 
separated by a wide aisle passing along the centre, in which were 
stationed several alguazils with whips, canes, .and goads, to preserve 
silence and maintain order, and, what seemed more difficult than 
either, to keep the congregation in their kneeling posture. The 
goads were better adapted to this purpose than the whips, as they 
would reach a long way, and inflict a sharp puncture without mak- 
ing any noise. The end of the church was occupied by a guard 
of soldiers under arms, with fixed bayonets ; a precaution which I 



1826.] and beering's strait. 311 

suppose experience had taught the necessity of observing. Afoove 
them there was a choir, consisting of several Indian musicians, who 
performed very well indeed on various instruments, and sang the 
Deum in a very passable manner. The congregation was very at- 
tentive, but the gratification they appeared to derive from the music 
furnished another proof of the strong hold this portion of the cere- 
monies of the Romish church takes upon uninformed minds. 

The worthy and benevolent priests of the mission devote almost 
the whole of their time to the duties of the establishment, and have 
a fatherly regard for those placed under them who are obedient and 
diligent; and too much praise cannot be bestowed upon them, con- 
sidering that they have relinquished many of the enjoyments of life, 
and have embraced a voluntary exile in a distant and barbarous 
country. The only amusement which my hospitable host of the 
mission of San Jose indulged in, during my visit to that place, was 
during meal times, when he amused himself by throwing pancakes 
to the nuchachos, a number of little Indian domestics, who stood 
gaping round the table. For this purpose, he had every day two 
piles of pancakes made of Indian corn ; and as soon as the olla was 
removed, he would fix his eyes upon one of the boys, who imme- 
diately opened his mouth, and the padre, rolling up a cake, would 
say something ludicrous in allusion to the boy's appetite, or to the 
size of his mouth, and pitch the cake at him, which the imp would 
catch between his teeth, and devour with incredible rapidity, in 
order that he might be ready the sooner for another, as well as to 
please the padre, whose amusement consisted in a great measure in 
witnessing the sudden disappearance of the cake. In this manner 
the piles of cakes were gradually distributed among the boys, amidst 
much laughter, and occasional squabbling. 

Nothing could exceed the kindness and consideration of these ex- 
cellent men to their guests and to travellers, and they were seldom 
more pleased than when any one paid their mission a visit : we al- 
ways fared well there, and even on fast days were provided with fish 
dressed in various ways, and preserves made with the fruit of the 
country. We had, however, occasionally some difficulty in mann- 
ing our good temper, in consequence of the unpleasant remarks 
which the difference of our religion brought from the padres, who 
were very bigoted men, and invariably introduced this subject. At 
other times they were very conversible, and some of them were in- 
genious and clever men ; but they had been so long excluded 
from the civilized world, that their ideas and their politics, like the 
maps pinned against the walls, bore date of 1772, as near as I could 
read it for fly spots. Their geographical knowledge was equally 
backward, as my host at San Jose had never heard of the discove- 
ries of Captain Cook ; and because Otaheite was not placed upon 
the chart, he would scarcely credit its existence. 



312 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

The Indians after their conversion are quiet and tractable, but ex- 
tremely indolent, and given to intoxication, and other vices. Gam- 
bling in particular they indulge in to an unlimited extent : they 
pledge the very clothes on their backs, and not unfrequently have 
been known to play for each other's wives. They have several 
games of their own, besides some with cards, which have been 
taught them by the Spaniards. Those which are most common, 
and are derived from the wild indians, are tousse called by the Span- 
iards pares y nones, odd or even ; escondido, or hunt the slipper ; 
and takersia. 

The first, though sometimes played as in England, generally con- 
sists in concealing a piece of wood in one hand, and holding out 
both for the guessing party to declare in which it is contained. The 
intense interest that is created by its performance has been amus- 
ingly described by Perouse. The second, escondido, needs no de- 
scription; the last, takersia, requires some skill to play well, and 
consists in rolling a circular piece of wood with a hole in its centre 
along the ground, and throwing a spear through it as it rolls. Tf the 
spear pierces the hole, it counts ten towards the game ; and if it ar- 
rests the wood in such a manner that it falls upon the spear, two is 
reckoned. It is a sport well calculated to improve the art of throw- 
ing the spear : but the game requires more practice to play it well 
than the Indians usually bestow upon it. 

At some of the missions they pursue a custom said to be of great 
antiquity among the aborigines, and which appears to afford them 
much enjoyment. A mud house, or rather a large oven, called te- 
meschal by the Spaniards, is built in a circular form, with a small en- 
trance, and an aperture in the top for the smoke to escape through. 
Several persons enter this place quite naked and make a fire near 
the door, which they continue to feed with wood as long as they can 
bear the heat. In a short time they are thrown into a most profuse 
perspiration, they wring their hair, and scrape their skin with a 
sharp piece of wood or an iron-hoop, in the same manner as coach 
horses are sometimes treated when they come in-heated ; and then 
plunge into a river or pond of cold water, which they always take 
care shall be near the temeschal. 

A similar practice to this is mentioned by Shelekoff as being in 
use among the Konaghi, a tribe of Indians near Cook's River, who 
have a method of heating the oven with hot stones, by which they 
avoid the discomfort occasioned by the wood-smoke ; and, instead 
of scraping their skin with iron or bone, rub themselves with grass 
and twigs. 

Formerly the missions had small villages attached to them, in 
which the Indians lived in a very filthy state ; these have almost all 
disappeared since Vancouver's visit, and the converts are disposed 



1826.] and beering's strait. 313 

of in huts as before described ; and it is only when sickness prevails 
to a great extent that it is necessary to erect these habitations, in 
order to separate the sick from those who are in health. Sickness 
in general prevails to an incredible extent in all the missions, and 
on comparing the census of the years 1786 and 1813, the propor- 
tion of deaths appears to- be increasing. At the former period 
there had been only 7,701 Indians baptized out of which 2,388 had 
died ; but in 1813 there had been 37,437 deaths to only 57,328 
baptisms. 

The establishments are badly supplied with medicines, and the 
reverend fathers, their only medical advisers, are inconceivably ig- 
norant of the use of them. In one mission there was a seaman who 
pretended to some skill in pharmacy, but he knew little or nothing 
of it, and perhaps often did more harm than good. The Indians 
are also extremely careless and obstinate, and prefer their own sim- 
ples to any other remedies, which is not unfrequently the occasion 
of their disease having a fatal termination. 

The Indians in general submit quietly to the discipline of the 
missions, yet insurrections have occasionally broken out, particular- 
y in the early stage of the settlement, when father Tamoral and 
other priests suffered martyrdom.* In 1823, also, a priest was mur- 
dered in a general insurrection in the vicinity of San Luis Rey ; 
and in 1827, the soldiers of the garrison were summoned to quel] 
another riot in the same quarter. 

The situations of the missions, particularly that of San Jose, are 
in general advantageously chosen. Each establishment has fifteen 
square miles of ground, of which part is cultivated, and the rest ap- 
propriated to the grazing and rearing of cattle ; for in portioning out 
the ground, care has been taken to avoid that which is barren. 
The most productive farms are held by the missions of San Jose, 
Santa Clara, San Juan, and Santa Cruz. That of San Francisco 
appears to be badly situated, in consequence of the cold fogs from 
the sea, which approach the mission through several deep valleys, 
and turn all the vegetation brown that is exposed to them, as is the 
case in Shetland with the top of every tree that rises above the walls. 
Still, with care, more might be grown in the mission than it is at 
present made to produce. Santa Cruz is rich in supplies, probably 
on account of the greater demand by merchant vessels, whalers in 
particular, who not unfrequently touch there the last thing on leav- 
ing the coast, and take on board what vegetables they require ; the 
quantity of which is so considerable, that it not unfrequently hap- 
pens that the missions are for a time completely drained. On this 

* Noticias de California, by Miguel Venegas. 

40 



314 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

account it is advisable, on arriving at any of the ports, to take an 
early opportunity of ordering every thing, that may be required. 

A quantity of grain, such as wheat and Indian corn, is annually 
raised in all the missions, except San Francisco, which, notwith- 
standing it has a farm Burri Burri, is sometimes obliged to have re- 
course to the other establishments. Barley and oats are said to be 
scarcely worth the cultivation, but beans, peas, and other legumi- 
nous vegetables are in abundance, and fruit is plentiful. The land 
requires no manure at present, and yields on an average twenty for 
one. San Jose reaps about 3,000 fanegas * of wheat annually. 

Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the missions, 
and the staple commodity of the commerce of the country : a prof- 
itable revenue might also be derived from grain, were the demand 
for it on the coast such as to encourage them to cultivate a larger 
quantity than is required by the Indians attached to the missions. 
San Jose, which possesses 15,000 head of cattle, cures about 2,000 
hides annually, and as many botas of tallow, which are either dis- 
posed of by contract to a mercantile establishment at Monterey, or 
to vessels in the harbour. The price of these hides may be judged 
by their finding a ready market on the Lima coast. Though there 
are a great many sheep in the country, as maybe seen by the mis- 
sion San Jose alone possessing 3,000, yet there is no export of 
wool, in consequence of the consumption of that article in the man- 
ufacture of cloth for the missions. 

Husbandry is still in a very backward state, and it is fortunate 
that the soil is so fertile, and that there are abundance of labourers 
to perform the work, or I verily believe the people would be conten- 
ted to live upon acorns. Their ploughs appear to have descended 
from the patriarchial ages, and it is only a pity that a little of the 
skill and industry then employed upon them, should not have de- 
volved upon the present generation. It will scarcely be credited by 
agriculturists in other countries, that there were seventy ploughs 
and two hundred oxen at work upon a piece of light ground of ten 
acres ; nor did the overseers appear to consider that number unnec- 
essary, as the padre called our attention to this extraordinary ad- 
vancement of the Indians in civilization, and pointed out the most 
able workmen as the ploughs passed us in succession. The great- 
er part of these ploughs followed in the same furrow without ma- 
king much impression, until they approached the padre, when the 
ploughman gave the necessary inclination of the hand, and the 
share got hold of the ground. It would have been good policy for 
■the padre to have moven gradually along the field, by which he 
would leave had it properly ploughed ; but he seemed to be quite 

* A fanega is one hundred pounds weight. 



1826.] and berring's strait. 315 

satisfied with the performance. Several of the missions, but partic- 
ularly that of Santa Barbara, make a wine resembling claret, though 
not near so palatable, and they also distil an ardent spirit resembling 
arrack. 

In this part of California, besides the missions, there are several 
pueblos, or villages, occupied by Spaniards and their families, who 
have availed themselves of the privileges granted by the old govern- 
ment, and have relinquished the sword for the ploughshare. There 
are also a few settlers who are farmers, but, with these exceptions, 
the country is almost uninhabited. Perhaps I cannot convey a bet- 
ter idea of the deserted state of the country, or of the capability of 
its soil, than by inserting a short narrative which I have compiled 
from the journals of three of my officers who travelled over land 
from San Francisco to " the famous port of Monterey." 

I have already stated that it was found expedient to make this 
journey to learn whether any supplies could be procured lor the 
ship : and in consequence Mr. Collie the surgeon, Mr. Marsh, the 
purser, and Mr. Evans, who was well acquainted with the Spanish 
language, were requested to proceed on this service. As it was of 
importance that no time should be lost in acquiring this information, 
they bad very little time allowed to prepare them for so long, and 
to seamen, so unusual a journey ; but as the mode of travelling in 
that rude country admitted but few incumbrances, the omission of 
these preparations was of less consequence. 

In order to reach a tolerable halting-place for the night, the first 
day's journey was necessarily long, and consequently by daylight on 
the 9th November the three officers were on the road to the mission ; 
having found horses and an escort prepared in pursuance of previous 
arrangements. 

Setting off at a round trot, they made the best of their way over 
three or four miles of ground so overgrown with dwarf oaks and 
other trees, that they were every moment in danger of being thrown 
from their horses, or having their eyes torn out by the branches as 
they passed. In half an hour, however, they reached the mission 
of San Francisco, and soon forgot the little annoyances they had 
hitherto met with in the hospitable welcome of the good priest, who 
regaled them with excellent pears and new milk. Nor was his con- 
versation less palatable than his cheer ; for, notwithstanding the 
introduction of half a dozen unnecessary si senors in each sentence, 
he contrived to amuse the vacant time with a flow of most genuine 
humour, for which Tomaso was always prepared, till the rattling 
accoutrements of a Californian dragoon announced the arrival of the 
passport from the governor. Intrusting their baggage to the care of 
two vaqueros (Indian cattle drivers) who were to accompany them, 
and receiving each a blessing from the padre, they set off with their 
escort about ten o'clock in the forenoon. The cavalcade consisted 



316 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

of three officers of the Blossom, the two vaqueros, and their cham- 
pion the dragoon, proceeded by nine or ten loose horses, driven on 
before as a relay, to be used when those they mounted should be- 
come fatigued. These Rozinantes are not much inclined to devi- 
ate from the road, but if any thing should inspire them with a spir- 
it of straying, the unnerring lasso, the never-failing appendage to a 
Californian saddlebow, soon embraces their neck or their feet, and 
brings them back again to the right way. 

I must not, however, permit the party to proceed without intro- 
ducing to the notice of the reader the costume and equipments of 
this dragoon of California. As for his person, I do not find it de- 
scribed, but his dress consisted of a round blue cloth jacket with 
red cuffs and collar ; blue velvet breeches, which being unbuttoned 
at the knees, gave greater display to a pair of white cotton stock- 
ings, cased more than half way in a pair of deer-skin boots. A 
black hat, as broad in the brim as it was disproportionably low in 
the crown, kept in order, by its own weight, a profusion of dark 
hair, which met behind, and dangled half way down the back in the 
form of a thick queue. A long musket, with a fox skin bound 
round the lock, was balanced upon the pummel of the saddle ; and 
our hero was further provided for defence against the Indians with a 
bull's hide shield, on which, notwithstanding the revolution of the 
colony, were emblazoned the royal arms of Spain, and by a double- 
fold deer skin cuirass as a covering for his body. Thus accoutred 
he bestrode a saddle, which retained him in his seat by a high pum- 
mel in front and a corresponding rise behind. His feet were armed 
at the heels with a tremendous pair of iron spurs, secured by a met- 
al chain ; and were thrust through an enormous pair of wooden box 
shaped stirups. Such was the person into whose charge our ship- 
mates were placed by the governor, with a passport which com- 
manded him not to permit any person to interfere with the party, 
either in its advance or on its return, and that it was to be escorted 
from place to place by a soldier. 

Leaving the mission of San Francisco, the party receded from 
the only part of the country that is wooded for any considerable 
distance, and ascended a chain of hills about a thousand feet in 
height, where they had an extensive view, comprehending the sea, 
the Farallones rocks, and the distant Punta de los Reyes, a head- 
land so named by the expedition under Sebastian Viscaino in 1602. 
The ridge which afforded this wide prospect was called Sierra de 
San Bruno, and for the most part was covered with a burnt-up 
grass, but such places as were bare presented to the eye of the 
geologist, rocks of sandstone conglomerate, intersected by a few 
veins of jaspar. Winding through the Sierra de San Bruno, they 
crossed a river of that name, and opened out the broad arm of the 



1826.] and beering's strait. 317 

sea which leads from the port to Santa Clara, and is confined be- 
tween the chain they were traversing and the Sierra de los Bol- 
bones, distinguishable at a distance by a peaked mountain 3,783 
feet high by trigonometrical measurement. Upon the summit of 
that part of the sierra bordering the arm of sea called Estrecho de 
San Jose, a thick wood, named Palos Colorados from its consisting 
principally of red cedar pine, stands conspicuous on the ridge. I 
mention this particularly, and wish to call attention to the circum- 
stance, as the straggling trees at the south extreme of the wood 
are used as landmarks for avoiding a dangerous rock which we dis- 
covered in the harbour, and named after the Blossom. 

About noon they reached a small cottage named Burri Burri, 
about twelve miles from San Francisco ; and being unused to trav- 
elling, especially upon Californian saddles, which are by no means 
constructed for comfort, they determined to rest, until the baggage 
that had been left in the rear should overtake them. The house in 
which they lodged was a small miserable mud cottage full of holes, 
which, however, afforded" them some repose and some new milk. 
Its inhabitants had been engaged in tanning, in which process they 
used a liquid extracted from oak bark, contained in a hide suspend- 
ed by the corners. They had also collected in great quantities a 
very useful root called in that country amoles, which seems to an- 
swer all the purposes of soap. 

From Burri Burri, a continuation of the Sierra de San Bruno 
passes along the centre of the peninsula formed by the sea and the 
Estrecho de San Jose, and is separated from this arm of the har- 
bour by a plain, upon which the travellers now descended from the 
mountains, and journeyed at a more easy and agreeable rate than 
they had done on the rugged paths among the hills. This plain 
near the sea is marshy, and having obtained the name of Las Sa- 
linas is probably overflowed occasionally by the sea. The number 
of wild geese which frequent it is quite extraordinary, and indeed 
would hardly be credited by any one who had not seen them cov- 
ering whole acres of ground, or rising in myriads with a clang that 
may be heard at a very considerable distance. They are said to 
arrive in California in November, and to remain there until March. 
Their flesh in general is hard and fishy, but it was reported by pa- 
dre Luis Gil, of the mission of Santa Cruz, that those which have 
yellow feet are exceptions to this, and are excellent eating. The 
blackbirds are almost equally numerous, and in their distant flight 
resemble clouds. Among the marshes there were also a great many 
storks and cranes, which in San Francisco have the reputation of 
affording a most delicious repast. 

Travelling onward, the hills on their right, known in that part as 
the Sierra del Sur, began to approach the road, which passing over 



318 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

a small eminence, opened out upon a wide country of meadow land, 
with clusters of fine oak free from underwood. It strongly resemb- 
led a nobleman's park : herds of cattle and horses were grazing 
upon the rich pasture, and numerous fallow-deer, startled at the 
approach of strangers, bounded off to seek protection among the 
hills. The resemblance, however, could be traced no further. In- 
stead of a noble mansion, in character with so fine a country, the 
party arrived at a miserable mud dwelling, before the door of which 
a number of half-naked Indians were basking in the sun. Several 
dead geese, deprived of their entrails, were fixed upon pegs around 
a large pole, for the purpose of decoying the living game into snares, 
which were placed for them in favourable situations. Heaps of 
bones also of various animals were lying about the place, and sadly 
disgraced the park-like scenery around. This spot is named San 
Matheo, and belongs to the mission of San Francisco. 

Quitting this spot, they arrived at a farm-house about half way 
between San Francisco and Santa Clara, called Las Pulgas (fleas) ; 
a name which afforded much mirth to our travellers, in which they 
were heartily joined, by the inmates of the dwelling, who were very 
well aware that the name had not been bestowed without cause. 
It was a miserable habitation, with scarcely any furniture, surround- 
ed by decaying hides and bones. Still, fatigue renders repose 
sweet upon whatsoever it can be indulged, and our party were glad 
enough to stretch themselves awhile upon a creaking couch, the 
only one in the hut, notwithstanding that the owner had a numer- 
ous family. Here, had there been accommodation, and had the 
place not acquired the reputation its name conveys, they would 
willingly have ended their day's journey ; but the idea of las pul- 
gas, sufficiently numerous in all the houses of California, determin- 
ed them to proceed as soon as they conveniently could. The plain 
still continued animated with herds of cattle, horses, and sheep 
grazing ; but the noble clusters of oak were now varied with shrub- 
beries, which afforded a retreat to numerous coveys of Californian 
patridges, of which handsome species of game the first specimen was 
brought to England by the Blossom, and is now living in the gar- 
dens of the Zoological Society. They are excellent food; and 
the birds, in the country now under description, are so tame that 
they would often not start from a stone directed with Indian skill. 

The sun went down before they reached Santa Clara, which was 
to terminate that day's journey, and, being unaccustomed to ride, 
the whole party were thoroughly fatigued. Indeed, so wearying 
was the journey even to the animals that bore them, that but for the 
relays of horses, which were now brought in with a lasso, they 
might have been compelled to pass the night upon the plain among 
the geese, the jackals, and the bears, which in the vicinity of Santa 



1826.] and beering's strait, 319 

Clara are by no means scarce. The pleasure of removing from a 
jaded horse to one that is fresh is not unknown probably to my 
readers, and our party rode in comparative comfort the remainder 
of the journey, and reached the mission of Santa Clara at eight 
o'clock. 

Santa Clara, distant by the road about forty miles from San 
Francisco, is situated in the extensive plain before described, which 
here, however, becomes more marshy than that part of the ground 
over which they had just travelled. It nevertheless continues to be 
occupied by herds of cattle, horses, sheep, and flocks of geese. 
Here, also, troops of jackals prowl about in the most daring manner, 
making the plain resound with their melancholy howlings ; and in- 
deed both wild and domesticated animals seem to lose their fear and 
become familiar with their tyrant man. The buildings of the estab- 
lishment, which was founded in 1768, consist of a church, the 
dwelling-house of the priests, and five rows of buildings for the 
accommodation of 1,400 Indians, w T ho, since Vancouver's visits, 
have been thus provided with comparatively comfortable dwellings, 
instead of occupying straw huts, which were always wet and miser- 
able. Attached to these are some excellent orchards, producing an 
abundance of apples and pears. Olives and grapes are also plen- 
tiful, and the padres are enabled to make from the latter about 
twenty barrels of wine annually. They besides grow a great quan- 
tity of wheat, beans, peas, and other vegetables. On the whole 
this is one of the best regulated and most cleanly missions in the 
country. Its herds of cattle amount to 10,000 in number, and of 
horses there are about 300. 

When our travellers visited the mission it was governed by padres 
Jose and Machin, two priests of the mendicant order of San Fran- 
cisco, to which class belong all the priests in Upper California. 
They appeared to lead a comfortable life, though not over well pro- 
vided with its luxuries. 

We will not, however, pry too narrowly into the internal arrange- 
ments of the good fathers' dwelling ; let it suffice, that they gave 
our travellers a cordial welcome, and entertained them at their 
board in a most hospitable manner. After joining them in a dram 
of aquadente, they allowed their guests to retire to their sleeping 
apartment, where, stretched upon couches of bull-hide, as tough 
and impenetrable as the cuirass of their friend the dragoon (who 
left them at this place), they soon fell asleep — thanks to excessive 
weariness — and slept as soundly as las pulgas would let them. 

Having breakfasted the following morning with the padres, and 
being provided with fresh horses, a new escort and vaqueros, the 
party was about to start, but were delayed by the punishment of 
an Indian who had stolen a blanket, for which he received two doz- 



320 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [iVbv. 

en lashes with a leathern thong upon that part of the human frame, 
which, we learn from Hudibras, is the most susceptible of insult. 
Some other Indians were observed to be heavily shackled, but the 
causes of their punishment were not stated. 

A beautiful avenue of trees, nearly three miles in length, leads 
from the mission to the pueblo of San Jose, the largest settlement 
of the kind in Upper California. It consist of mud-houses miser- 
ably provided in every respect, and contains about 500 inhabitants 
— retired soldiers and their families, who under the old government 
were allowed the privilege of forming settlements of this .nature, 
and had a quantity of ground allotted to them for the use of their 
cattle. They style themselves Gente de Razon, to distinguish 
them from the Indians, whose intellectual qualities are frequent sub- 
jects of animadversion amongst these enlightened communities. 
They are governed by an alcalde, and have a chapel of their own, 
at which one of the priests of the mission occasionally officiates. 

About eighteen miles from Santa Clara, the party alighted upon 
the banks of a limpid stream, the first they had seen in their ride. 
It was too favourable a spot to be passed, and placing some milk 
and pears, which had been furnished by the hospitable priests at the 
mission, under the cool shade of an aliso-tree/they regaled them- 
selves for a few minutes, and then resumed their journey. At the 
distance of eight leagues from Santa Clara, they passed some re- 
markable hills near the coast named El ojo del coche; and a few 
miles further on, they descended into the plain of Las Llagas, so 
called from a battle which took place between the first settlers and 
the Indians, in which many of the former were wounded. Stop- 
ping towards the extremity of this fertile plain at some cottages, 
named Ranchas de les animas, the only habitations they had seen 
since the morning, they dined upon some jerk beef, which, accord- 
ing to the old custom in this and other Spanish colonies, was served 
in silver dishes. Silver cups and spoons were also placed before 
our travellers, offering a singular incongruity with the humble wood- 
en benches, that were substituted for chairs, and with the whole 
arrangement of the room, which, besides the board of smoking 
jerk beef, contained beds for the family, and a horse harnessed to 
a flour mill. 

Leaving Llano de las Llagas, they ascended a low range of hills, 
and arrived at a river appropriately named Rio de los Paxaros, from 
the number of wild ducks which occasionally resort thither. The 
banks of this river are thickly lined with wood, and being very steep 
in many places, the party wound, with some difficulty, round the 
trunks of the trees and over the inequalities of the ground ; but 
their Californian steeds, untrammelled with shoes, and accustomed 
to all kinds of ground, never once stumbled. They rode for some 



1826.] and beering's strait. 321 

time along the banks of this river, though so much broken, were 
very agreeable, and crossing the stream a few miles lower down, 
they left it to make its way towards the sea in a south-west direc- 
tion, and themselves entered upon the Llano de San Juan, an ex- 
tensive plain surrounded by mountains. It should have been told, 
before the party reached thus far, that as they were riding peacea- 
bly over the Llano de las Animas, the clanking of their guide's 
huge broadsword, which had been substituted for the long musket 
of the soldier from the presidio, drew the attention of the party to 
his pursuit of a wild mountain-cat, which he endeavoured to en- 
snare with his lasso for the sake of its skin, which is said to be 
valuable. Two of these cats, which in species approach the oce- 
lot, were shot by our sportsmen at San Francisco. Their skins 
were preserved to be brought to this country, but on opening the 
collection they were not found, and we have reason to suspect that 
a man who assisted the naturalist, disposed of these, as well as 
other specimens, to his own advantage. 

Twilight approached as the party drew near to the mission of 
San Juan, where they alighted, after a ride of fifty-four miles, just 
as the bell tolled for vespers, and, stiff and tired, gladly availed 
themselves of* the accommodation afforded by padre Arroyo who in 
hospitality and good humour endeavoured to exceed even the good 
father of Santa Clara. This worthy man was a native of Old 
Castile, and had resided in Californian since 1804, dividing his time 
between the duties of his holy avocation, and various ingenious 
inventions. Supper was served in very acceptable time to the fa- 
tigued visitors, and the good-natured padre used every persusaion 
to induce them to do justice to his fare ; treating them to several 
appropriote proverbs, such as " Un- dia alegre vale cien anos de 
pesadumbre," (one day of mirth is worth a hundred years of grief,) 
and many more to the same purpose. Though so many summers 
had passed over his head in exile, his cheerfulness seemed in no 
way diminished, and he entertained his guests with a variety of an- 
ecdotes of the Indians and of their encounters with the bears too 
long to be repeated here. Nor was his patriotism more diminished 
than his cheerfulness, and on learning that one of the party had 
been at the siege of Cadiz, his enthusiasm broke forth in the cele- 
brated Spanish patriotic song of " Espana de la guerra," &c. Hav- 
ing served them with what he termed the viatico, consisting of a 
plentiful supply of cold fricole beans, bread, and eggs, he led the 
party to their sleeping apartment amidst promises of horses for the 
morrow, aud patriotic songs of his country adapted to the well-known 
air of Malbrook. Interrupting the good man's enthusiasm, they 
endeavoured to persuade the priest to allow them to proceed early 
in the morning, before the commencement of mass ; this, however, 

41 



322 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

was impossible, and he shut them into their apartment, repeating the 
proverb, " Oir misa y dar cebada no impede Jornada" (to hear mass 
and bestow alms will not retard your journey.) 

When the morning came, it was a holiday, and the vaqueros, not 
at all disposed to lose their recreation, had decamped with the sad- 
dles, and the party were obliged to pass the day at San Juan. Af- 
ter a small cup of chocolate, and a strip of dry bread, the only 
meal ever served in the missions until twelve o'clock, the party 
strolled over the grounds, and visited about thirty huts belonging to 
some newly converted Indians of the tribe of Toolerayos (bulrush- 
es.^) Their tents were about thirty-five feet in circumference, con- 
structed with pliable poles fixed in the ground and drawn together 
at the top, to the height of twelve or fifteen feet. They are then 
interwoven with small twigs and covered with bulrushes, having an 
aperture at the side to admit the inhabitants, and another at the top 
to let out the smoke. The exterior appearance of these wretched 
wigwams greatly resembles a bee-hive. In each dwelling were nine 
or ten Indians of both sexes, and of all ages, nearly in a state of 
nudity, huddled round a fire kindled in the centre of the apartment, 
a prey to vermin, and presenting a picture -of misery and wretched- 
ness seldom beheld in even the most savage state of society. They 
seemed to have lost all the dignity of their nature ; even the black 
birds (oriolus niger) had ceased to regard them as human beings, 
and were feeding in flocks among the wigwams. This was said to 
be the state in which the Indians naturally live, and the reader will 
not be surprised to hear that this party had voluntarily come from 
the mountains to be converted, and to join their civilized brethren 
at the mission. Happy would it be for these savages could they be 
once taught to make a proper use of that freedom which ought to 
follow their conversion to the pure religion of Christ, even under 
the restrained form of Catholicism, that their minds might become 
by this means sufficiently improved to allow of their settling in in- 
dependent Christian communities ; but, judging from their present 
mental capacity, it must be long before so great and desirable a 
change can be. effected. The experiment of liberating the Indians 
has been tried and has failed ; and appearances certainly justify the 
assertion that the Indian is happier under control than while indulg- 
ing his free soul in the wilds of his native country. 

What might seem a remarkable example of this was met with on 
turning from the dwelling of wretchedness just described to a scene 
of the greatest mirth and happiness amongst some converted Indi- 
ans, who were passing their holiday in amusement. Some were 
playing at taltersia, a game which, as already described, consists in 
trundling a hoop, or rather a piece of wood with a hole in it, and 
in endeavouring to pierce it with a short lance as it rolls. Another 



1826.] and beering's strait. 323 

party were playing at a game resembling hockey, and in various 
parts of the plain adjoining the mission many others were engaged 
in pleasnt recreations, passing their day in exercise, content, and 
enjoyment. 

In the neighbouring meadows there were several large herds of 
cattle ; and the geese settled there in flocks, as at the mission of 
Santa Clara. The rocks, where they protruded, were ascertain- 
ed by Mr. Collie to be sand-stone conglomerate with a calcareous 
basis. 

The welcome peals of the mission bell assembled the party at 
dinner ; but the padre, who for some time before had been earnestly 
engaged in endeavouring to convert one of his heretic guests, was 
unwilling to quit the train of theological disquisitions which in his 
own opinion he had almost brought to successful issue, until re- 
minded by his other visitors, who had not been accustomed to go 
so long without their breakfast, that they required something more 
substantial. 

I will not attempt to stimulate the appetite of my reader by enu- 
merating the various exquisite dishes which successively smoked on 
the board of the generous priest, suffice it that there were many 
good ones, as the padres in California are careful to have their table 
well supplied at all times of the year, and have an indulgence from 
the pope to eat meat even-during the greater part of Lent, in con- 
sequence of the difficulty of procuring fish. 

Having performed the honours of the table, padre Arroyo retired 
to indulge his usual siesta : this, however, caused but a brief sus- 
pension to the efforts lie most industriosly continued to make, for 
the purpose of converting his heretical opponent to the true faith, 
reading him innumerable lectures in refutation of the Lutheran and 
Calvihistic doctrines, and in favour of the pope's supremacy, infal- 
libility, and power of remitting offences. 

It more than once occurred to the party — and I believe, not with- 
out good foundation for their opinion — that it was the hope of suc- 
cess in this conversion which occasioned all the little manoeuvring 
to delay them, that I have before described. But having at length 
given his pupil over as irrevocably lost, he consented to their de- 
parture on the following morning. The padre appeared to be of 
an active mind, and had constructed a water-clock which commu- 
nicated with a bell by his bedside, and which by being arranged at 
night could be made to give an alarm at any stated hour. 

It was here that our travellers were surprised at the intelligence 
of the north-west passage having been effected by a Spaniard, 
and were not a little amused at the idea of having stumbled upon 
the long-sought north-west passage in an obscure mission of Cali- 
fornia. 



324 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

The padre, however, was quite in earnest, and produced a work 
published by the Duke of Almodobar, Director of the Royal Acad- 
emy in Spain, in which was transcribed at full length the fictitious 
voyage of Maldonado. It was in vain they endeavoured to per- 
suade the padre that this voyage was not real, seeing that it bore 
even in its detail all the marks of truth, and that it emanated from 
such high authority. His credulity in this instance affords a curi- 
ous proof of the very secluded manner in which these holy men 
pass their time, for it may be remembered, that it was in the very 
ports of California that both Vancouver and Quadra anchored, af- 
ter having satisfactorily proved the voyage in question to have been 
a fabrication. 

A still greater instance of the simplicity of the priest is related 
at his expense by persons in the mission. A youthful Indian couple 
who had conceived an affection for each other eloped one day, that 
they might enjoy each other's society without reserve in the wild 
and romantic scenery of the forests. Soldiers were immediately 
sent in pursuit, when, after a week's search, the fugitives were 
brought back ; upon which padre Arroyo, to punish their misbe- 
haviour, incarcerated them together, and kept them thus confined 
until he thought they had expiated their crime. 

In addition to his other manifold accomplishments, padre Arroyo 
was a grammarian, and said that he had written a vocabulary and 
grammar of the Indian languages, but he could not be prevailed 
upon to show them. Such works, were they in existence, would, I 
believe, be the only ones of the kind ; and it is a pity that they 
should not be given to the world as a matter of curiosity, though I 
cannot think they would be of much use to a traveller, as the lan- 
guages of the tribes differ so materially, and in such short spaces, 
that in one mission there were eleven totally different dialects. I 
cannot omit to mention padre Arroyo's disquisition on the etymol- 
ogy of the name of the Peninsula of California. I shall observe 
first, that it was never known why Cortes gave to the bay * which 
he first discovered, a name which appears to be composed of the 
Latin words caUda and fornax, signifying heat and furnace, and 
which was afterwards transferred to the peninsula. Miguel Vene- 
gas supposed it arose from some Indian words which Cortes mis- 
understood, and Burney, in his history of voyages in the Pacific,*)" 
observes, that some have conjectered the name to have been given 
on account of the heat of the weather, and says, it has been re- 
marked that it was the only name given by Cortes which was im- 
mediately derived from the Latin language. Without entering into 

* Bernal Diaz de Castillo, in his " Conquest of Mexico," calls California a bay. 
t Vol. I. p. 178, 4to, 



1826.] and beering's strait. 325 

a discussion of the subject, which is not of any moment, I shall 
observe, that it was thought in Monterey to have arisen in conse- 
quence of a custom which prevails throughout California, of the 
Indians shutting themselves in ovens until they perspire profusely, 
as I have already described in speaking of the Temeschal. It is 
not improbable that the practice appeared so singular to Cortes 
that he applied the name of California to the country, as being one 
in which hot ovens were used for such singular purposes. Padre 
Arroyo, however, maitained that it was a corruption of colofon, 
which, in the Spanish language, signifies resin, in consequence of 
the pine trees which yield that material being so numerous. The 
first settlers, he said, at the sight of these trees would naturally ex- 
claim, " Colofon," which, by its similarity to Californo, (in the 
Catalonian dialect, hot oven,) a more familiar expression, would 
soon become changed. 

Our travellers, after taking leave of the hospitable and amusing 
priest the proceding evening, with the intention of preceding early 
in the morning, experienced much delay in consequence of the re- 
fusal of the guard to start without hearing mass and receiving the 
benediction of the priest : but at length they quitted the plain of 
San Juan, and ascended with difficutly some steep hills commanding 
a view of the spacious bay of Monterey. Then winding among 
valleys, one of which was well wooded and watered, they entered 
an extensive plain called " Llano del Rey," which until their arri- 
val, was in the quiet possession of numerous herds of deer and jack- 
als. This tract of land is bounded on the north, east, and south- 
east, by mountains which extend with a semicircular sweep from the 
sea at Santa Cruz, and unite with the coast line again at Point Pi- 
nos. It is covered with a rank grass, and has very few shrubs. "In 
traversing this plain, before they could arrive at some ranchos, nam- 
ed Las Salinas, where they proposed to dine, the party had to wade 
through several deep ditches and the Rio del Rey,, both of which 
were covered with wild ducks. The cottages called Las Salinas are 
on the farm of an old Scotchman,to whom the land was granted in con- 
sequence of some services which he rendered to the missions. They 
rested here, and to the provision they had brought with them very 
gladly added some pumpkins, procured from the Indians. Here, 
also, they were surprised with the novel occurrence of having water 
brought to them in baskets, which the Indians weave so close, that 
when wet they become excellent substitutes for bowls. 

The remainder of the plain over which they passed toward Mon- 
terey was sandy, and covered with fragrant southernwood, broken 
here and there by dwarf oaks, and shrubs of the syngenesious class 
of plants. As they approached the town, pasture lands, covered 
with herds of cattle, succeeded this wild scenery : and riding on- 



326 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

ward, trees of luxuriant growth, houses scattered over the plain, the 
fort, and the shipping in the bay, announced the speedy termination 
of their journey. At five o'clock in the evening they alighted in 
the spuare at Monterey, and met a kind reception from Mr. Hart- 
nell, a merchant belonging to the firm of Begg and Co. in. Lima, 
who was residing there, and who pressed them to accept the use of 
his house while they remained in the town — an offer of which they 
thankfully availed themselves. 

Gonzales, the governor to whom the party went to pay their re- 
spects, was an officer who had been raised by his own merit from 
the ranks to be captain of artillery and governor of Monterey : his 
family were residing with him, and having been educated in Mexi- 
co, complained bitterly of their banishment to this outlandish part of 
the world, where the population, the ladies in particular, were ex- 
tremely ignorant, and wretched companions for the Mexicanus in- 
struidas. Besides, there were no balls or bull-fights in Monterey ; 
and for all the news they heard of their own country, they might as 
well have been at Kamschatka. To compensate for these dreadful 
privations, the ladies generally amused themselves in the evening 
by smoking and playing cards, and relating the perils they encoun- 
tered in the land journey from Mexico to the shores of the Pacific. 
Politness and attention, however, were the characteristics of the 
good people, who offered our party every assistance in their power 
during their stay at Monterey. 

Upon inquiry after the stores and medicines the ship stood in need 
of, the result was highly unfavourable ; as there were no medicines 
to be had, and some stores which were essential to the ship could no- 
where be procured. The exchange on bills was favourable, but 
there was no specie : Mr. Marsh therefore purchased what stores 
he could from the inhabitants and from the shipping in the roads, 
and arranged with a person who had come out from Ireland for 
the purpose of salting meat for the Lima market, to cure a quantity 
for the use of the ship, and to have it ready on her arrival at Monte- 
rey. They then hastened their departure ; but the same difficul- 
ties arose about horses as before, and they were much inconveni- 
enced in consequence, being obliged to alter a plan they had con- 
templated of returning by a different route. This, very unexpect- 
edly to padre Arroyo, "brought them again under his roof. The 
padre either did not like this second tax on his hospitality, or was 
put out of temper by the increase of a complaint to which be was 
subject, as he gave them a less cordial reception, and appeared very 
little disposed to conversation. It was imagined, however, that he 
still entertained hopes of the conversion of one of the party, and 
that with this view he again occasioned a delay in furnishing hor- 
ses for the next day's journey ; offering as excuses, that some of the 



2826.] and beering's strait. :j27 

horses of the mission were engaged by soldiers in pursuit of a Mexi- 
can exile, who had deserted ; that others had been taken by the 
vaqueros to look after a male and female Indian, who had likewise 
absconded ; and that the rest were gone to join the expedition 
against Los Gentiles, the Cosemenes. Vexed at this delay, the par- 
ty endeavoured to hire horses at their own expense, but the price 
demanded was so exorbitant that they determined to wait the return 
of those that were said to be absent. 

It is more than probable that some one of my readers may have 
been in the same predicament — in a strange town, in a strange 
country, with a beast fatigued to death, and an urgent necessity for 
proceeding; he will then easily remember the aimable and benevo- 
lent alacrity with which the inhabitants endeavoured to lighten his 
load of every stray crown they could obtain from him, on every pre- 
tence that ingenious cupidity can invent. So at least did the good 
people at San Juan, when padre Arroyo would no longer assist our 
poor companions. Private horses could be had, it was true, but terms 
were either thirteen shillings sterling for the journey, or seventeen 
shillings sterling for the purchase of the horse, which in California 
is considered so exorbitant that our shipmates did not think proper to 
sutler the imposition, and awaited the horses belonging to the mis- 
sion. 

After a day's delay during which they again heard many invec- 
tives against the new goverment of Mexico, which had deprived the 
priesthood of their salaries, and obliged the missions to pay a tithe 
to the state, they resumed their journey, and arrived at San Fran- 
cisco on the 17th of November. 

In this route it will be seen that, with the exception of the mis- 
sions and pueblos, the country is almost uninhabited ; yet the pro- 
ductive nature of the soil, when it has been turned up by the mis- 
sions, and the immense plains of meadow land over which our trav- 
ellers passed, show with how little trouble it might be brought into 
high cultivation by any farmers who could be induced to settle 
there. 

The unwelcome intelligence brought by this party of the nature 
of the supplies to be obtained at Monterey, obliged me to relinquish 
the plan I had contemplated of completing the survey of that part 
of the coast of California which had been left unfinished by Van- 
couver : and rendered it necessary that I should proceed direct 
either to Canton or to Lima, as the most likely places for us to meet 
with the medicines and stores of which we were in such imminent 
need. The western route of these two afforded the best opportuni- 
ty of promoting the objects of the expedition, by bringing us into 
the vicinity of several groupes of islands of doubtful existence, at 
which, in the event of their being found,, our time might be useful- 



328 VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

ly employed until it should be necessary to proceed to Berring's 
Strait. An additional reason for this decision was, a request which 
I had made to the consul of the Sandwich Islands, if possible, to 
purchase provision for the ship at that place. I therefore determin- 
ed, after taking on board the few stores that were purchased at 
Monterey, to proceed to the Sandwich Islands, searching in our way 
thither for some Islands said to have been discovered by an Ameri- 
can vessel, and from thence prosecute the voyage to Canton. 

While we remained at San Francisco refitting the ship, the boats 
were constantly employed sounding and surveying the harbour, in 
which the duty we received every assistance from Martinez, the 
governor, who allowed us to enter the forts and to take what angles 
and measures we pleased, requiring only in return for this indul- 
gence a copy of the plan, when finished, for his own government ; 
his proposal seemed so fair that I immediately acceded to it, and, on 
my return to the place the following year, fully complied with his 
request. It is impossible to pass unnoticed the difference between 
this liberal conduct of Martinez and that of the former Spanish au- 
thorites, who watched all Vancouver's actions with the greatest 
suspicion, and whose jealousy has been the subject of animad- 
version of almost every voyager who has touched at this port. 

On the 12th of December a salute was fired from the battery ; 
high mass was said in all the missions, and a grand entertainment, 
to which all the officers were invited, was given at the presidio, in 
honour of Santa Senora Gaudaloupe. There was also to have been 
a fight between a bear and a bull, but for some reason not known to 
us — probably the trouble it required to bring the animal so far, as 
the bears do not come within many miles of the presidio — it did not 
take place ; and we were all greatly disappointed, as we had offered 
to reward the soldiers for their trouble and had heard so much of 
these exhibitions from every body that our curiosity had been 
highly excited. This is a favourite amusement with Californians, 
but it is of rare occurrence, as there is much trouble h} getting a 
bear alive to the scene of combat, and there is also some risk and 
expense attending it. We were informed that when a fight is de- 
termined upon three or four horsemen are dispatched with lassos to 
the woods where the bears resort, and that when they come to an 
advantageous spot they kill a horse or a bullock as a bait, and hide 
themselves in the wood. Sometimes they have to wait a whole 
day or more before any of these animals appear, but when they 
come to partake of the food, the men seize a favourable opportunity, 
and rush upon them at different points with their lassos, and en- 
tangle one of them until he is thrown upon the grouud, when they 
manage to suspend him between the horsemen, while a third person 
dismounts and ties his feet together ; he is then extended upon a 



1826.] and beering's strait. 329 

hide and dragged home ; during which time it is necessary,they say, 
to keep him constantly wet to allay his thirst and rage, which 
amounts almost to madness — and woe be to him who should be near 
if he were to break away from his fastenings. The entangling of 
the animal in the first instance appears to be by no means devoid of 
risk, as in case of the failure of a lasso it is only by speed that a ri- 
der can save himself and his horse. The bear being caught, two 
or three men are dispatched for a wild bull, which they lasso in an 
equally dexterous manner, catching him either by the horns or by 
whichsoever leg they please, in order to trip him up and retain him 
between them. 

It is necessary to begin the fight as soon as the animals are 
brought in, as the bear cannot be tempted to eat, and is continually 
exhausting himself in struggling for his liberty. The two animals 
are then tied together by a along rope, and the battle begins, some- 
times to the disadvantage of the bear, who is half dead with exhaus- 
tion, but in the end almost always proves fatal to the bull. It is re- 
markable that all the bears endeavour to seize the bull by the tongue, 
for which purpose they spring upon his head or neck and first grap- 
ple with his nose, until the pain compels the bull to roar, when his 
adversary instantly seizes his tongue, pierces it with his sharp talons, 
and is sure of victory. These battles were the everlasting topic ot 
conversation with the Californians, who indeed have very little else 
to talk about, and they all agreed as to the manner of the fatal ter- 
mination of the spectacle. 

The lasso, though now almost entirely confined to Spanish Amer- 
ica, is of very great antiquity, and originally came from the east. 
It was used by a pastoral people who were of Persian descent, and 
of whom 8,000 accompanied the army of Xerxes.* 

By Christmas-day we had all remained sufficiently long in the 
harbour to contemplate our departure without regret : the eye had 
become familiar to the picturesque scenery of the bay, the pleas- 
ure of the chase had lost its fascination, aud the roads to the mis- 
sion and presidio were grown tedious and insipid. There was no 
society to enliven the hours, no incidents to vary one day from the 
other, and,to use the expression of Donna Gonzales, California 
appeared to be as much out of the world as Kamschatka. 

On the 26th, being ready for sea, I was obliged to relinquish the 
survey of this magnificent port, which possesses almost all the re- 
quisites for a great naval establishment, and is so advantageously 
situated with regard to North America and China, and the Pacific 
in general, that it will, no doubt, at some future time, be of great 
importance. We completed the examination of those parts of the 

* Rennell on the 20 Satrapies of Darius Hystaspes, P. 287. 

42 



330 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

harbour which were likely to be frequented by vessels for some 
years to come, in which it is proper to mention, in order to give as 
much publicity to the circumstance as possible, that we discovered a 
rock between Alcatrasses and Yerba Buena Islands,dangerous to both 
shipping and boats, in consequence of its rising suddenly from about 
seven fathoms, so near to the surface as to occasion strong overfalls 
with the tides. A shoal was also found to the eastward of the landing 
place off the presidio, which ought to be avoided by boats sailing 
along shore. 

On the 28th we took leave of our hospitable and affable friends, 
Martinez and Padre Tomaso, full of gratitude for their kindness and 
attention to our wants ; weighed anchor and bade adieu to the Port 
of San Francisco, in which we had all received material benefit 
from the salubrity of its climate, the refreshing product of its 
soil and the healthy exercise we had enjoyed there. In the 
ship's company in particular, there was the most apparent amend- 
ment ; some of them, from being so emaciated on their arrival 
that the surgeon could scarcely recognize them, were now 
restored to their former healthy appearance, and we had the satis- 
faction of sailing without a single case of sickness on board. We 
had to regret during our stay the loss of one of our best men, Jo- 
seph Bowers, a marine. He had accompanied one of the officers 
on a shooting excursion, and was led by his naturally ardent and 
bold disposition to plung into a lake after some wild fowl that had 
been shot, forgetting that he could not swim. His eagerness led him 
beyond his depth, and in his attempt to regain his footing, he unfor- 
tunately perished before any aid could be brought. His body was 
interred at the burial ground near the presidio landing-place, and 
was followed to the grave by all the officers. As the coffin was 
lowering into the ground, the good understanding that existed be- 
tween the ship's company and the inhabitants was tesitfied in the 
most gratifying manner, by the latter approaching and performing 
the last office for the deceased, by dropping the earth in upon his 
coffin. I cannot recollect ever having met with such conduct in any 
other foreign port, and the act, most certainly, did not lessen our 
regard for the inhabitants. 



1826.] and herring's strait. 331 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Observations on the Country of California and its Trade — Climate — Meteorological 
Remarks — Short Account of the Wild Indians — Natural Productions — Monterey 
— Mission of San Carlos — Departure. 



The more we became acquainted with the beautiful country 
around San Francisco, the more we were convinced that it possess- 
ed every requisite to render it a valuable appendage to Mexico; and it 
was impossible to resist joining in the remark of Vancouver, " Why 
such an extent of territory should have been subjugated, and, after 
all the expense and labour bestowed upon its colonization, turned 
to no account whatever, is a mystery in the science of state policy 
not easily explained." Situated in the northern hemisphere, be- 
tween the parallels of 22° and 39°, no fault can be found with its 
climate ; its soil in general is fertile, it possesses forests of oak and 
pine convenient for building and contributing to the necessities of ves- 
sels, plains overrun with cattle, excellent ports, and navigable rivers 
to facilitate inland communication. Possessing all these advantages, 
an industrious population alone seems requisite to withdraw it from 
the obscurity in which it has so long slept under the indolence of 
the people and the jealous policy of the Spanish government In- 
deed it struck us as lamentable to see such an extent of habitable 
country lying almost desolate and useless to mankind, whilst other 
nations are groaning under the burthen of their population. 

It is evident, from the natural course of events, and from the 
rapidity with which observation has recently been extended to the 
hitherto most obscure parts of the globe, that this indifference can- 
not continue ; for either it must disappear under the present author- 
ities, or the country will fall into other hands, as from its situation 
with regard to other powers upon the new continent, and to the 
commerce of the Pacific, it is of too much importance to be per- 
mitted to remain long in its present neglected state. Already have 
the Russians encroached upon the territory by possessing them- 



332 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

selves of the Farallones, and some islands off Santa Barbara ; and 
their new settlement at Rossi, a few miles to the northward of Bo- 
dega, is so near upon the boundary as to be the cause of much jeal- 
ous feeling ; — not without reason it would appear, as I am informed 
it is well fortified, and presents to California an example of what 
may be effected upon her shores in a short time by industry. 

The tract situated between California and the eastern side of the 
continent of North America, having been only partially explored, 
has hitherto presented a formidable barrier to encroachment from 
that quarter ; but settlements are already advancing far into the 
heart of the country, and parties of hunters have lately traversed 
the interior, and even penetrated to the shores of the Pacific ; — 
not without the loss of lives from the attacks of the Indians, it is 
true, but with ease compared with the labour and difficulty expe- 
rienced by Lewis and Clarke, who had not the benefit which more 
recent travellers have derived from the establishment of inland de- 
pots by the American fur companies. One of these depots we 
were informed by a gentleman belonging to the establishment, 
whom we met at Monterey in 1827, is situated on the western 
side of the rocky mountains on a fork of the Columbia called 
Lewis River, near the source of a stream supposed to be the Col- 
orado. 

The trade of Upper California at present consists in the expor- 
tation of hides, tallow, manteca, horses to the Sandwich Islands, 
grain for the Russian establishments at Sitka and Kodiak, and in the 
disposal of provisions to whale-ships and other vessels which touch 
upon the coast, — perhaps a few furs and dollars are sent to China. 
The importations are dry goods, furniture, wearing-apparel, agri- 
cultural implements, deal-boards, and salt ; and silks and fireworks 
from China for the decoration of the churches and celebration of 
the saints' days. In 1827 almost all these articles bore high prices : 
the former in consequence of the increased demand for them ; 
and the latter, partly from the necessity of meeting the expenses 
of the purchase of a return cargo, and partly on account of the nav- 
igation act. 

The missions and the inhabitants in general complained loudly 
of these prices, not considering that the fault was in a great meas- 
ure their own, and that they were purchasing some articles which 
had been brought several thousand miles, when they might have 
procured them in their own country with modetate labour only. 
For example, they were actually living upon the sea-coast and 
amongst forests of pine, and yet were suffering themselves to buy 
salt and deal-boards at exorbitant prices. • 

With a similar disregard for their interest, they were purchasing 
sea-otter skins at twenty dollars apiece, whilst the animals were 



1826.] and beering's strait. 333 

swimming about unmolested in their own harbours ; and this from 
the Russians, who are intruders upon their coast, and are depriving 
them of a lucrative trade : and again, they w r ere paying two hun- 
dred dollars for carts of inferior workmanship, which, with the ex- 
ception of the wheels, might have been equally well manufactured 
in their own country. 

With this want of commercial enterprise, they are not much en- 
titled to commiseration. With more justice might they have com- 
plained of the navigation laws, which, though no doubt beneficial to 
the inhabitants on the eastern coast of Mexico, where there are 
vessels belonging to the state in readiness to conduct the coasting 
trade, are extremely disadvantageous to the Californians, who hav- 
ing no vessels to employ in this service are often obliged to pay the 
duty on goods introduced in foreign bottoms. This duty for the 
encouragement of the coasting trade was made seventeen per cent, 
higher than that on cargoes brought in vessels of the state. Thus 
not only must the inhabitants purchase their goods on very disad- 
vantageous terms, but, as- a foreign vessel cannot break stowage 
without landing the whole of her cargo, they must in addition incur 
the expenses attending that, which will in general fall upon a few 
goods only, as the towns in California are not sufficiently populous, 
any one of them, to consume a whole cargo ; and it is to be remem- 
bered, that no foreign vessel, after breaking stowage, can proceed 
to another port in the same dominion without being liable to seizure 
by the customs. 

The imprudent nature of these laws, as regards California, ap- 
pears to have been considered by the authorities in that country, as 
they overlook the introduction of goods into the towns by indirect 
channels, except in cases of a gross and palpable nature. In this 
manner several American vessels have contrived to dispose of their 
cargoes, and the inhabitants have been supplied with goods of which 
they were much in need ; but, had the navigation laws been strictly 
attended to, the vessels must have returned unsuccessful, and the 
inhabitants have continued in want. 

Far more liberal has been the hand of nature to this much neg- 
lected country, in bestowing upon it a climate remarkable for its 
salubrity. The Spanish settlers in California enjoy an almost unin- 
terrupted state of good health. Many attain the age of eighty and 
ninety, and some have exceeded a hundred years. There have 
been periods, however, when the small pox and measles have affect- 
ed the population, and particulary the Indians in the missions, who, 
unlike the Spaniards, appear to suffer severely from diseases of all 
kinds. The small pox many years ago prevailed to an alarming 
extent, and carried off several thousand Indians ; but since the in- 
troduction of cattle into the country, and with them the cow pox, it 



334 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

has not reappeared. Vaccination was practised in California as 
early as 1806, and the virus from Europe has been recently intro- 
duced through the Russian establisment at Rossi. The measles 
have also at times seriously affected the Indians, and in 1806 proved 
fatal to thousands, while It is remarkable that none of the Spaniards 
affected with the disease died. Dysentery, the most prevalent 
complaint amongst the converted Indians, no doubt arises in a great 
measure from the coldness and dampness of their habitations, and 
becomes fatal through the want of proper medical assistance. 
They are happily free from the hooping cough. 

This state of ill health does not extend to the uncivilized Indi- 
ans ; and, notwithstanding the mortality in the missions, the climate 
of California must be considered salubrious. Perouse, Vancouver, 
and LangsdorfF were of the same opinion ; and to judge of it by 
the general health of the Spanish residents, and by the benefit that 
our seamen derived from it during their short stay, it would certainly 
appear not to be surpassed. The summer and early part of the 
autumn are the least healthy parts of the year, in consequence of 
continued fogs, which occur at these periods. 

It is, in all probability, in consequence of these fogs during the 
warmest part of the year, that the coast of California has the repu- 
tation of being much colder than that of Chili in corresponding 
parallels of latitude. In the month of December the mean tem- 
perature of San Francisco was 53° 2', the maximum 66°, and the 
minimum 46°. We nevertheless saw hoar frost upon the grass in 
the mornings, and in the following year observed snow lie several 
hours upon the ground. As the minimum of temperature was 
so many degrees above the freezing point, the former was in all 
probability occasioned by the radiation, which is very great in that 
country. 

The winter of 1826 was said to be a very favourable season ; we 
could not judge from our own experience, therefore, of what wea- 
ther was usual on the coast at that period of the year. But there 
were very few days during our visit in which a vessel might not 
have approached the coast with safety. The strongest and most 
prevalent winds were from the north-west ; but these winds, though 
they blew directly upon the coast, were generally attended by clear 
weather, which would have enabled a vessel to find a port, had it 
been necessary. They were strongest about the full and change of 
the moon. 

From the prevalence of the westerly swell off the harbour, and 
from the wind moderating as we approached the coast in both years, 
I am inclined to think that these winds do not usually blow home 
upon the shore. 

There was a curious anomaly observed in the movements of the 



1826.] AND BEERINc's STRAIT, 335 

barometer and sympeisometer during our stay at San Francisco ; 
the former rose with the winds which brought bad weather, and fell 
with those which restored serenity to the sky. The maximum 
height was 30*46, the minimum 29-98, and the mean 30-209. 

The hygrometer on the whole indicated a dry atmosphere, and 
ranged from 0° to 20o of dryness on the thermometric scale, the 
mean degree of dryness being 6°, 6'. The particulars of these ob- 
servations are inserted in tables in the Appendix to the 4to edition. 

The clear weather occasioned by the north-west wind was favoura- 
ble for astronomical observations ; but many were lost in conse- 
quence of a haze overhanging the land at night, and from the incon- 
venience arising from a heavy deposition, which, besides occasioning 
much mirage, fell so profusely upon the glasses of the instruments 
that they were obliged to be repeatedly wiped, and sometimes at 
the most inconvenient moments.* Our observations, however, 
were very satisfactory, and are important, as the longitudes of the 
places between Nootka Sound and San Diego are dependent upon 
the situation of San Francisco and Monterey ; Vancouver having, 
in his survey of the coast, rated his chronometers between the me- 
ridians of these places. My observatory was erected upon a small 
eminence near the anchorage at YerbaBuena, from whence the ob- 
servations were carefully reduced to the fort at the entrance of the 
harbour. The results have been published in the 4to edition, 
where will also be found some observations on the dip and variation 
of the needle, the tides, and other subjects. 

I shall conclude this imperfect sketch of Upper California with a 
short description of the Indian mode of living, and of the natural 
productions of the country, derived principally from the information 
of the priests, and from the journals of the officers who went over- 
land to Monterey. The Indians who enter the missions with which 
we became acquainted are divided in their wild state into distinct 
tribes, and are governed by a chief whose office is hereditary, but 
only in the male line. The widows and daughters, however, 
though not allowed to partake of this privilege, are exempted from 
labour, and are more respected than other women. Each tribe has 
a different dialect : and though their districts are small, the langua- 
ges are sometimes so different, that the neighbouring tribes cannot 
understand each other. I have before observed that in the mission 
of San Carlos there are eleven different dialects. Their villages 
consist of wigwams made with poles, covered with bulrushes, and 
are generally placed in an open plain to avoid surprise. Like the 
Arabs and other wandering tribes, these people move about the 
country, and pitch their tents wherever they find a convenient 
place, keeping, however within their own district. 

* I found this in a great degree obviated by fixing a long paper tube to the field 
end of the telescope. 



336 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov. 

They cultivate no land, and subsist entirely by the chase, and 
upon the spontaneous produce of the earth. Acorns, of which 
there is a great abundance in the country, constitute their princi- 
pal vegetable food. In the proper season they procure a supply of 
these, bake them, and then bruise them between two stones into 
a paste, which will keep until the following season. The paste be- 
fore it is dried is subjected to several washings in a sieve, which 
they say deprives it of the bitter taste common to the acorn. We 
cannot but remark the great resemblance this custom bears to the 
method adopted by the South-Sea Islanders to keep their bread fruit, 
nor ought we to fail to notice the manner in which Providence 

o a 

points out to different tribes the same wise means of preserving 
their food, and providing against a season of scarcity. 

The country inhabited by the Indians abounds in game, and the 
rivers in fish ; and those tribes which inhabit the sea-coast make use 
of muscles and other shell-fish, of which the haliotis gigantea is the 
most abundant. In the chase they are very expert, and avail them- 
selves of a variety of devices to ensnare and decoy their game. 
The artifice of deceiving the deer by placing a head of the animal 
upon their shoulders is very successfully practiced by them. To 
do this, they fit the head and horns of a deer upon the head of a 
huntsman, the rest of his body being painted to resemble the colour 
of a deer. Thus disguised the Indian sallies forth, equipped with 
his bow and arrows, approaches the pasture of the deer., whose ac- 
tions and voice he then endeavours to imitate, taking care to con- 
ceal his body as much as possible, for which purpose he generally 
selects places which are overgrown with long grass. This strata- 
gem seldom fails to entice several of the herd within reach of his ar- 
rows, which are frequently sent with unerring aim to the heart of 
the animal, and he falls without alarming the herd ; but if the aim 
should fail, or the arrow only wound its intended victim, the whole 
herd is immediately put to flight. 

Their method of taking ducks and other wildfowl is equally 
ingenious. They construct large nets with bulrushes, and repair 
to such rivers as are the resort of their game, where they fix a long 
pole upright on each bank, with one end of the net attached to the 
pole on the opposite side of the river to themselves. Several arti- 
ficial ducks made of rushes are then set afloat upon the water be- 
tween the poles as a decoy ; and the Indians, who have a line fas- 
tened to one end of the net, and passed through a hole in the upper 
end of the pole that is near them, wait the arrival of their game in 
concealment. When the birds approach, they suddenly extend the 
net across the river by pulling upon the line, and intercept them in 
their flight, when they fall stunned into a large purse in the net, and 
are captured. They also spread nets across their rivers in the eve- 



1826.] and beering's strait. 337 

ning, in order that the birds may become entangled in them as 
they fly. 

The occupation of the men consists principally in providing for 
their support, and in constructing the necessary implements for the 
chase and for their own defence. The women attend to their do- 
mestic concerns, and work a variety of baskets and ornamental 
parts of their dress, some are very ingenious, and all extremely la- 
borious. Their closely wove baskets are not only capable of con- 
taining water, but are used for cooking their meals. A number of 
small scarlet feathers of the orilus phoeniceus are wove in with the 
wood, and completely screen it from view on the outside ; and to 
the rim are affixed small black crests of the Californian patridges, 
of which birds a hundred brace are required to decorate one bas- 
ket : — they are otherwise ornamented with beads, and pieces of 
mother-of-pearl. They also embroider belts very beautifully with 
feathers of different colours, and they work with remarkable neat- 
ness, making use of the young quills of the porcupine, in a similar 
manner to the Canadian Indians ; but here they manufacture a fine 
cloth for the ground, whereas the Canadians have only the bark 
of the birch-tree. They also manufacture caps and dresses for 
their chiefs, which are extremely beautiful ; and they have a great 
many other feather ornaments, which it would be stepping beyond 
the limits of my work to describe. 

The stature of the Indians which we saw in the missions was 
by no means diminutive. The Alchones are of good height, and 
the Tuluraios were thought to be, generally, above the standard of 
Englishmen. Their complexion is much darker than that of the 
South-sea Islanders, and their features far inferior in beauty. In 
their persons they are extremely dirty, particularly their heads, 
which are so thatched with wiry black hair that it is only by sepa- 
rating the locks with the hand that it can be got at for the 
purposes of cleanliness. Many are seen performing such acts of 
kindness upon their intimate friends ; and, as the readiest means of 
disposing of what they find, consuming it in the manner practiced 
by the Tartars, who according to Hakluyt — "cleanse one anothers' 
heades, and ever as thei take an animal do eate her, saeing thus wille 
I doe to our enemies."* 

Their bodies are in general very scantily clothed, and in summer 
many go entirely naked. The women, however, wear a deer skin 
or some other covering about their loins : but skin dresses are not 
common among any of the tribes concerning whom we would pro- 
cure any information. The women are fond of ornaments, and 
suspend beads and buttons about their persons, while to their ears 

* Hakluyt's Selection of curious and rare Voyages, Supplement 
43 



338 VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

they attach long wooden cylenders, variously carved, which serve 
the double purpose of ear-rings and needle-cases. 

Tattooing is practiced in these tribes by both sexes, both to or- 
nament the person, and to distinguish one clan from the other. It 
is remarkable that the women mark their chins precisely in the 
same way as the Esquimaux. 

The tribes are frequently at war with each other, often in conse- 
quence of trespasses upon their territory aud property ; and weak 
tribes are sometimes wholly annihilated, or obliged to associate 
themselves with those of their conquerors ; but such is their warmth 
of passion and desire of revenge that very little humanity is in gen- 
eral shown to those who fall into their power. Their weapons con- 
sist only of bows and arrows ; neither the tomahawk nor the spear 
is ever seen in their hands. Their bows are elegantly and ingeni- 
ously constructed, and if kept dry will discharge an arrow to a con- 
siderable distance. They resemble those of the Esquimaux, being 
strengthened by sinews at the back of the bow, but here one sinew, 
the size of the wood, occupies the whole extent of the back, and 
embraces the ends, where they are turned back to receive the 
string ; the sinew is fixed to the bow while wet, and as it becomes 
dry draws it back the reverse way to that in which it is intended to 
be used. The Indian manner of stringing these bows is precisely 
similar to that practiced by the lovers of archery in England ; but 
it requires greater skill and strength, in consequence of the increased 
curvature of the bow, and the resistence of the sinew. 

The religion of all the tribes is idolatrous. The Olchone, who 
inhabit the sea-coast between San Francisco and Monterey, worship 
the sun, and believe in the existence of a beneficent and an evil 
spirit, whom they occasionally attempt to propitiate. Their ideas 
of a future state are very confined : when a person dies they adorn 
the corpse with feathers, flowers, and beads, and place with it a 
bow and arrows ; they then extend it upon a pile of wood, and 
burn it amidst the shouts of the spectators, who wish the soul a 
pleasant journey to its new abode, which they suppose to be a 
country in the direction of the setting sun. Like most other na- 
tions, these people have a tradition of the deluge ; they believe also 
that their tribes originally Came from the north. 

The Indians in their wild state are said to be more healthy than 
those which have entered the missions. They have simple reme- 
dies, derived from certain medicinal herbs, with the property of 
which they have previously made themselves acquainted. Some 
of these roots are useful as emetics, and are administered in cases of 
sickness of the stomach : they also apply cataplasms to diseased 
parts of the body, and practise phlebotomy very generally, using 
the right arm for this purpose when the body is affected, and the 



1826.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 339 

left where the limbs. But the temischal is the grand remedy for 
most of their diseases. 

The very great care taken of all who are affected with any dis- 
ease ought not to be allowed to escape a remark. When any of 
their relations are indisposed, the greatest attention is paid to their 
wants, and it was remarked by Padre Arroya that filial affection is 
stronger in these tribes than in any civilized nation on the globe 
with which he was acquainted. 

Our knowledge of the natural history of this country cannot be 
expected to be very extensive. In the woods not immediately bor- 
dering upon the missions, the black bear has his habitation, and 
when food is scarce it is dangerous to pass through them alone in 
the dusk of the evening ; but when the acorns abound there is noth- 
ing to apprehend. It is said that the white bear also vists this dis- 
trict occasionally, from the northward. The lion (felis concolor?} 
and the tiger {felis oncaV) are natives of these woods, but we never 
saw them : the inhabitants say they are small, and that the lion is 
less than the tiger, but more powerful. A large species of moun- 
tain cat {gato del monte) is common : a polecat {viverra putorius) 
also is found in the woods : wolves and foxes are numerous, and the 
cuiotas, or jackalls, range about the plains at night, and prove very 
destructive to the sheep. The fallow deer browses on the pasture 
land, not only in the interior, but also upon some of the islands and 
around the shores af the harbour ; it is sought after for its skin, of 
which the Spaniards make boots and shoes, &c. The rein deer 
also is found inland, particularly upon a large plain named Tulu- 
rayos,on account of the number of bulrushes growing there. In 
the months of May and June the Spaniards resort to this plain with 
their lassos, and take as many of these animals as they can ensnare, 
for the sake of their fat, of which they will sometimes procure be- 
tween four and five arobas from one animal. 

The fields are burrowed by a small rat, resembling the mus arva- 
lis, by a mountain rat of the cricetus, species, and also by the ar- 
dillo, a species of sciurus, rather a pretty little animal, said to be 
good to eat; another of these species was seen among the branches 
of the trees. A small variety of lepus cuniculus is very common in 
the sand hills near the presidio ; hares are less common, and indeed 
it is doubtful whether any were seen by us. Raccoons are found in 
the mountains at a distance from the coast. The sea-otter musse- 
la lutris) is not an unfrequent visitor in the harbour of San Fran- 
cisco, but very few of them are taken, notwithstanding their fur is 
valuable. Judging from the accounts that bave been published, 
these animals are becoming less numerous upon the coast : in 1786 
it was stated that 50'000 of them might be collected annualy, 
whereas at present the number is reduced to about 2'000. Por- 



340 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Dec. 

poises and whales are numerous outside the harbour, and the com- 
mon seal may occasionally be seen basking on the rocks of Yerha- 
buena, and other places. 

The feathered tribe in San Francisco are very numerous, and 
have as yet been so little molested that there must be a rich harvest 
in store for the first naturalist who shall turn his attention to this 
place. We succeded in killing a great many birds of different 
species, several of which were found to be quite new, and will be 
described in the natural history which will shortly appear as a sup- 
plement to this voyage : but there are not many which delight, ei- 
ther by the brilliancy or beauty of their plumage, or by the melody 
of their note. The birds of prey are the black vulture (yultus 
aura,) sometimes large ; several species of falco, one of which at- 
tacks the geese, and is in consequence called mato gansas, also a 
kite, and a sparrow hawk. The horned owl (a variety of the strix 
virginiana?) flies about after dark to the terror of the superstitious 
Indians, who imagine its screech forbodes evil. Several species of 
oriolus are met with in the plains, and one, the oriolus phceviceus, 
is seen in immense flocks. The natives say that this bird, which 
in its first year is of a greyish black colour, changes to deep black 
in the second, and ultimately becomes black with red shoulders ; but 
Mr. Collie thinks there is some error in this. There is another oriolus 
which frequents moist and rushy places; crows in great numbers,some 
which are white, and smaller than those of England ; and several spe- 
cies of finches, buntings, and sparrows, prove very destructive to the 
grain when sown. The magpie is also an inhabitant here, and a small 
blue jay frequents the woods. The California quail (tetrao virginian- 
ws,)wood pigeons with bronzed imbricated feathers on the back of the 
neck, plovers (charadrius hiaticula ?), snipes, several species of 
sanderlings (tringa,) razorbills (hematopus ,) herons (ardea^) cur- 
lew (scolopax linosa and recurvirosta,) and two species of rallus, 
afforded amusement to our sportsmen, as did also some of the many 
species of the geese, ducks, widgeon, and teal, which frequent the 
lakes and plains. The two latter species, and one of the anas 
(erycthropus ?) were similar to those which had been seen in Kot- 
zebue Sound ; and the natives remark that they arrive from the 
north in the month of September, and depart again in May. The 
grey geese are said to be good to eat, but we found them all fishy ;' 
not so the ducks, the greater part of which are palatable : these 
birds, of which we procured about twenty species and the mallard, 
are so common that several were frequently killed at one shot. It 
was observed that some kinds of ducks always preferred salt water 
to the lakes, particularly a species with a dark-coloured body and a 
white head, which we did not obtain. Among those which frequent 
the fresh water there were generally and abundance of water-hens. 



1826.] and berring's strait. 341 

Pelicans (pelicanus onorcratluns) may be seen morning and eve- 
ning winging their long line of flight across the harbour, and set- 
tling upon the little island of Alcatrasses, which they have complete- 
ly covered with their exuviae, and rendered extremely offensive to 
persons passing near the place. Shags (pelicanus graculus) also 
abound in the harbour. I ought to have noticed in its proper place 
the humming bird, which, notwithstanding the high latitude of the 
country, is an inhabitant of the woods, and if we may rely upon 
Padre Tomaso, may be seen there all the year round. We noticed 
several of them fluttering about some gooseberry bushes near our 
anchorage, and shot one in full flesh : as this was in the middle of 
winter, the information of the padre was probably correct. 

To this list of birds several were added the succeeding year at 
Monterey, which, being found so near the place we are describing, 
may justly be classed with them : these consisted of the golden 
winged wood-pecker, a goat-sucker, several species of small birds 
unknown to us, and a golden-crested wren. At this place there 
were also several species of picus. 

I shall pass rapidly over the reptiles, which are not numerous at 
San Francisco, and none were procured during our stay. The Span- 
iards assert that there is an adder in the wood which is venomous, 
and that there_are rattlesnakes upon the island of Molate in the 
harbour ; but we saw neither the one or the other, notwithstanding 
Mr. Elson and a boat's crew landed upon Molate, which is very 
small indeed. 

Fish are not much sought after in California, in consequence of 
the productions of the land being so very abundant ; several sorts, 
however, are brought to the tables of the missions. In the Bay of 
Monterey we noticed the scomber colias, and another kind of mack- 
erel, the torpedo and another species of raia, achimara, and swarms 
of small fish resembling the Sardinia. Muscles are found in consid- 
erable quantities upon the shores, and form a large portion of the 
food of the Indians bordering upon the coasts and rivers. At Mon- 
terey two species of haliotis of large size are also extremely abund- 
ant, and equally sought after by the Indians. They are found on 
the granite rocks forming the south-east part of the bay, which ap- 
pears to be their northern limit. The natives make use of these 
shells for ornaments, and decorate their baskets with pieces of them. 
Besides these shell-fish, there were noticed a few patella, limpet, 
turbo, cardium, and mya shells, and among other lepas, a rare spe- 
cies of I. anotifera and a chiton (tunicatus ?) 

The forests of this part of California furnish principally large 
trees of the pinus genus, of which the p. rigida and the red cedar 
are most abundant, and are o£ sufficient growth for the masts of 
vessels. Two kinds of oak arrive at large growth, but near the 



342 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [DeC. 

coast they do not appear to be very numerous. There is here a 
low tree with a smooth reddish -brown bark, bearing red berries, 
which from the hardness of its wood, would serve the purpose of 
lignum vitas : there are also some birch and plane trees ; but there 
are very few trees bearing fruit which are indigenous ; the cherry 
tree and gooseburry bush, however, appear to be so. 

The shrubs covering the sand hills and moors are principally 
syngenesious, or of the order rhamnus, while those which prefer 
the more fertile and humid soils are a gaudy-flowered currant bush, 
and a species of honeysuckle ; but the most remarkable shrub in 
this country is the yedra, a poisonous plant affecting only particular 
constitutions of the human body, by producing tumours and violent 
inflamation upon any part with which it comes in contact ; and in- 
deed even the exhalation from it, borne upon the wind, is said to 
have an effect upon some people. It is a slender shrub, preferring 
cool and shady places to others, and bears a trefoil crenated leaf. 
Among other useful roots in this country there are two which are 
used by the natives for soap, amole and jamate. 

From San Francisco we proceeded to Monterey to take in the 
stores that had been purchased at that place, and to procure some 
spars, which grow more conveniently for embarkation there than at 
San Francisco. Though the distance between these two places 
is very little more than a hundred miles, our passage was 
prolonged to two days by light winds. On the last day 
of the year we passed Punto ano nuevo, which with Punto 
Pinos forms the bay of Monterey. This is a spacious sandy 
bay about twenty miles across, and according to Perouse with 
anchorage near the shore in almost every part ; but it is not advis- 
able to enter it in any other place than that which is frequented as 
an anchorage, in consequence of a heavy swell which almost always 
rolls into it from the westward. The mission of Santa Cruz is sit- 
uated at the north extremity of the bay near Punto ano nuevo, and 
vessels occasionally anchor off there for fresh water and supplies of 
vegetables, neither of which are to be had in any quantity at Mon- 
terey. Care should be taken in landing at Santa Cruz, as the surf 
is very heavy, and the river of St. Lorenzo has a bar off it, which 
it is necessary to pass. 

We dropped our anchor in Monterey Bay on the first of Janu- 
ary, and with the permission of the governor, D. Miguel Gonzales, 
immediately commenced cutting the spars we required ; for each of 
which we paid a small sum. Through the assistance of Mr. Hart- 
nell, we procured several things from the missions which we should 
otherwise have sailed without, and our thanks are further due to 
him for his kindness and attention during our stay. 

The anchorage of Monterey is about two miles south-east of 
point Pinos, in the south angle of the great bay just described. It 



1827.] and beering's strait. 343 

is necessary to lie close to the shore, both on account of the depth 
of water, and in order to receive the protection of point Pinos, 
without which ships could not remain in the bay. It presents to the 
eye a very exposed anchorage, but no accidents have ever occurred 
to any vessel properly found in cables and anchors ; in which respect 
it very much resembles the bay of Valparaiso, nearly in the same 
parallel in the southern hemisphere. 

The village and presidio of Monterey are situated upon a plain 
between the anchorage and a range of hills covered with woods of 
pine and oak. The presidio is in better condition than that at San 
Francisco ; still as a place of defence it is quite useless. The fort 
is not much better, and its strength may be judged of from its hav- 
ing been taken by a small party of seamen who landed from a 
Buenos Ayrean pirate in 1819, destroyed the greater part of the 
guns, and pillaged and burnt the town. 

At the distance of a league to the southward of the presidio lies 
the mission of San Carlos, a small establishment containing 260 In- 
dians. It is situated in a valley near the river St. Carmelo ; a 
small stream emptying itself into a deep rocky bay. The shores 
of this bay, and indeed of the whole of the coast near Point Pinos, 
is armed with rocks of granite upon which the sea breaks furiously ; 
and, as there is no anchorage near them on account of the great 
depth of water, it is dangerous to approach the coast in light or 
variable winds. Fortunately some immense beds of sea weed 
(fucus jpyriforrnis) lie off the coast, and are so impenetrable that 
they are said to have saved several vessels which were driven into 
them by the swell during calm and foggy weather. The ride from 
the presidio to San Carlos on a fine day is most agreeable. The 
scenery is just sufficiently picturesque to interest, while the hills 
are not so abrupt as to inconvenience a bold rider. The road leads 
principally through fine pasture lands, occasionslly wooded with 
tall pine, oak, and birch trees ; but without any underwood to give 
it a wildness, or to rob it of its park-like aspect. Before the valley 
of San Carmelo opens out, the traveller is apprized of his approach 
to the mission by three large crosses erected upon Mount Calvary ; 
and further on by smaller ones placed at the side of the road, to 
each of which some history is attached. In the church is a draw- 
ing of the reception of La Perouse at the mission, executed on 
board the Astrolabe, by one of the officers of his squadron. I 
much wished to possess this valuable relic, with which however the 
padre was unwilling to part. 

We found lying in the port of Monterey an American brig en- 
deavouring to dispose of a cargo of dry goods, and to procure hides 
and tallow in retrun ; and we opportunely received from her a supply 
of spirits,as the last cask was abroach. On the 4th a Russian brig, 



344 VOYAGE TO THE pacific [Jan. 

named the Baikal, belonging to the Russian American Fur Com- 
pany, anchored in the bay. This vessel was employed upon the 
coast, trading between Sitka, Bodega, and several ports in Cali- 
fornia, either in carrying or arranging the supplies for the Russian 
settlements to the northward. She was commanded by an officer 
in the Russian navy, and had on board Mr. Klebnekoff, the agent. 
There are several of these vessels upon the coast carrying guns, 
and wearing pendants. On the 5th we took leave of our hospita- 
ble acquaintances, and put to sea on our passage to the Sandwich 
Islands. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 345 



CHAPTER XV. 



Passage to the Sandwich Islands — Woahoo — Historical Sketch of the Islands — 
Progress in Civilization — Sandal wood — Resources of the Government — Slow 
Progress of Education — Efforts of the Missionaries — Unsuccessful Result of their 
Zeal — Sentiments of the King and Chiefs — Entertainment given by the King — 
Death of Krymakoo — Wailing Scene — Departure of Kahumana for Owyhee. 

Upon leaving Monterey we steered to the southward with a fair 
wind, which carried us into the trades, and attended us the whole way 
to the Sandwich Islands. In our course we searched unsuccessfully 
for all the islands that were marked near our route, rounding to 
every night when near the position of any one, that it might not be 
passed unobserved, and making sail on a parallel of latitude during 
the day. In this manner we searched for Henderson's and Coop- 
er's Islands, besides several others said to lie near them, and also 
for a group in the latitude of 16° N., and longitude between 130° 
and 133° W. ; but we saw nothing of them, nor had any of the 
usual indications of the vicinity of land ; so that, if any of these 
islands exist, they must be in some other parallel than that as- 
signed to them in the American Geographical Table, published in 
1825* 

On the 25th, after a pleasant passage of twenty days, we saw 
the Island of Owyhee ; and the following day anchored in the har- 
bour of Honoruru, the capital of the Sandwich Islands. We had 
the satisfaction to meet all our former acquaintances well, and to 
receive their congratulations on our return ; we had also the pleas- 
ure to find Mr. Lay the naturalist ready to resume his occupations. 
During our absence, he had unfortunately been prevented pursuing 
his researches among the islands by a severe illness. 

After the usual etiquette of salutes, I visited the king and Kahu- 
mana, who appeared very glad of our arrival, and being informed 

* I have been recently informed that an island of moderate height has been seen 
by the Sultan Amerian whaler in latitude 15° 30' N., longitude between 130° and 
134° W. And that another was landed upon in latitude 18° 22' N., longitude 
114° W, 

44 



346 voyage to the pacific [Jan. 

that the ship was to remain a few weeks in the harbour, they very- 
kindly appropriated three houses to the use of the officers and my- 
self, and seemed determined to show by other acts of attention that 
the regard they had always expressed for our nation was not merely 
an empty profession. 

In my first visit to this place, I gave a sketch of the appearance 
of the town of Woahoo and of the inhabitants, with the advances 
which the country appeared to be making in civilization. • It may 
not be superfluous here to insert a very concise account of the 
islands during the last few years, to enable my readers to judge more 
correctly of their progress, and to furnish information to such as may 
not have the history of them fresh in their memories. 

At the time the Sandwich Islands were discovered by Captain 
Cook, Owyhee was under the sovereignty of Terreeoboo, or Ter- 
iopu, who died shortly after the departure of the discovery ships. 
Tamehameha, who afterwards became so celebrated, was the 
nephew of Terreoboo. He is not mentioned in the official account 
of Cook's voyage, but in a narrative of the facts relating to .the 
death of the great navigator, published by Mr. Sam well, the sur- 
geon of the Discovery, Meah Meah, as he is called by that gentle- 
men, is represented to have slept on board that ship, and to have 
had with him a magnificent feather cloak, with which he would not 
part, except for iron daggers, six of which he procured, and return- 
ed to the shore well pleased with his bargain. No doubt his inten- 
tion was to wrest the sovereignty from the hands of the successor 
of Terreeoboo, an enterprize which he performed shortly after- 
wards, by assembling his forces and defeating him in a pitched bat- 
tle, in which he is said to have slain him with his own hands. Af- 
ter this victory, no other chief possessing sufficient power to oppose 
Tamehameha, we find that on the arrival of Vancouver in 1792 he 
had acquired supreme authority both in Owyhee and Mowee. He 
soon afterwards attacked and conquered Woahoo, and, assisted by 
his valiant protege Krymakoo, in 1817 became sovereign of all the 
Sandwich group. 

Vancouver was very instrumental in establishing the power of this 
chief on a firm basis, by noticing Tamehameha in a manner which 
could not escape the observation of the other chiefs, and by build- 
ing him a decked vessel, which gave him a decided superiority of 
force, and enabled him to keep them in subjection. In return for 
these important benefits, the grateful chief, in presence of Vancou- 
ver and the Eries of the group, made a formal cession of the is- 
lands to the king of Great Rritain, and the natives have ever since 
considered themselves under the immediate protection of this 
country. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 347 

In the early stage of our intercourse with these islands, several 
acts, such as the death of Cook, the murder of Lieutenant Her- 
gerst, and the treacherous seizure of an American vessel, rendered 
merchant vessels cautious of communicating with savages of ap- 
parently so ferocious a character ; but when it was known that the 
perpetrators of these murders were punished by Tamehamha, and 
when his real character was made public by the voyages of Vancou- 
ver and other navigators, every vessel employed in the Pacific was 
desirous of visiting his dominions. In course of time a regular 
market was established for the sale of the productions of the island ; 
the natives were instructed to accept Spanish dollars and European 
clothing in exchange for their goods, and several foreigners, by the 
king's persuasion, were induced to settle upon the islands. The na- 
tive chiefs, in imitation of their sovereign, began to dress in the Euro- 
pean style. A fort was built for the protection of the principal 
town, and a number of the natives were instructed in the use of 
fire-arms. The harbour of Honoruru soon became crowded with 
ships of all nations, and latterly the place has assumed the appear- 
ance of an European colony. 

The discovery of sandal wood in the mountains opened a profit- 
able channel of commerce ; and several adventurers, chiefly from 
the United States, remained to collect it from the natives. They 
found a ready market for it in China ; the goods of that country 
were brought in return to the Sandwich Islands, and thus was laid 
the foundation of a trade which still continues. Tamehameha hav- 
ing purchased several vessels with this precious wood, attempted to 
conduct this trade with his own resources, and sent a schooner 
bearing his flag to Canton ; but, owing to the forms and impositions 
practised in China, and other circumstances which he could not 
control, the speculation failed, and this advantageous trade has since 
been carried on by the Americans. 

In all these plans for the benefit of his country, for the introduc- 
tion of civilization among his subjects, and for the establishments of 
his assumed authority, Tamehameha was greatly indebted to the 
advice and assistance of two respectable English seamen, Young 
and Davis, whom he persuaded to remain in the islands. Their 
services were not unrequited by the great chief, whose generous dis- 
position and intimate knowledge of human nature induced him -to 
bestow upon them both rank and fortune, by raising them to the 
station of chiefs, and giving them estates. They in turn proved 
grateful to their benefactor, and conducted themselves so properly 
that every visitor to the islands has spoken of them in the highest 
terms. Davis died in 1808, and was buried at Woahoo, where the 
place of his interment is marked by a humble tombstone : Young 
still survives, at the advanced age of eighty-two. Besides these 



348 voyage to the pacific [Jan. 

advisers, Tamehameha had a faithful and wise counsellor in Kry- 
makoo, afterwards better known by the appellation of Billy Pitt. 

Tamehameha having seen his country emerge from barbarism 
under his well-directed efforts, and having conferred upon it other 
important benefits, died in May 1819, at the age of sixty-three. 
His biographer will do him injustice if he does not rank him, how- 
ever limited his sphere, and limited his means, among those great 
men who, like our Alfred, and Peter the Great of Russia, have res- 
cued their countries from barbarism, and who are justly esteemed 
the benefactors of mankind. His loss as a governor, and as a fath- 
er to his people, was universally felt by his subjects. It is painful to 
relate that, though his death occurred so recently several human vic- 
tims were sacrificed to his names by the priests in the morais ; and, ac- 
cording to the custom of the islands, some who were warmly attach- 
ed to him committed suicide, in order to accompany his corpse to 
the grave ; while great numbers knocked out their front teeth, and 
otherwise mutilated and disfigured themselves. 

Tamehameha was no sooner dead than his son Rio Rio, who 
succeeded him, effected the most important change the country had 
yet experienced. Having held conferences with the Chiefs, and 
obtained the sanction of Keopuolani, a powerful female of rank, he 
ordered all the morais to be destroyed, and declared the religion of 
the foreigners, — of the principles of which he was then very igno- 
rant, should henceforth be the religion of the state. The. burning 
of the idols and the abolition of the taboo immediately succeeded 
this destruction of the morais, and put an end to many cruel and 
degrading customs, both injurious to the interests of the country 
and oppressive to the people, especially to the females, who were 
thenceforth admitted to an equality with the men. 

The prejudices of Tamehameha had always opposed this change 
in the religion of his subjects, not so much, I am informed, from his 
being bigoted to idolatry as from its being better adapted to his 
politics. The maxims of our religion he thought would tend to 
deprive him of that despotic power which he exercised over the 
lives and fortunes of his subjects. The terror inspired by human 
sacrifices, and the absolute command which the superstitions of his 
idoltarous subjects gave him, suited the plan of his government bet- 
ter than any other religion, and he, consequently, opposed every 
attempt to propagate the gospel among his people. 

Up to this period no missionaries had reached the Sandwich Is- 
lands, and for nearly a year there might be said to be no religion in 
the country; but at the expiration of that period (in 1820,) sev- 
eral missionary gentlemen arrived from the United States and imme- 
diately entered upon their vocations. Keopuolani became the first 
actual convert to the Christian religion, though in 1819 both Boki 



1827.] and beering's strait. 349 

and Krymakoo were baptized by the clergymen of Captain Frey* 
cinet's ship. Keopuolani being a chief of powerful influence., her 
example was followed by a great many persons, and the missiona- 
ries have since added daily to the number of their converts, and 
have been protected by the government, particularly by Kahumana 
and Kapeolani, two female .chiefs next in rank to Keopuolani, and 
probably first in power in the islands. 

Keopuolani died in 1823, after having received the sacrament. 
She was a grandchild of Terreeoboo, and a daughter of Kevalao, 
who was slain at Mowee. At the time of this victory, which ad- 
ded Mowee to the dominion of Tamehameha, Keopuolani was only 
thirteen years of age. She happened to be on the field at the mo- 
ment of the defeat of her party, and became the prisoner of the 
conqueror, who, in order to secure his conquest by right as well as 
by victory, united her to himself in marriage. She had, however, 
afterwards, agreeably to the custom of the country, several hus- 
bands, of which one was Krymakoo, who also fell into the hands of 
the king at Mowee, and- whose life was generously spared ; and an- 
other, Hoapiri, who, though a plebeian, was admitted to the hon- 
our of being one of the favourites of the queen. This person is 
the reputed father of Kiukiuli the present king, while Tamehameha 
is said to have been the father of Rio-Rio. The queen, however, 
declared both her sons to be children of the illustrious chief, and 
they succeeded to the throne accordingly, in cases of this nature the 
declaration of the mother being held sufficient. 

Rio-Rio is represented to have been far inferior in intellect to 
his predecessor, and his youth and inexperience encouraged the su- 
perior chiefs to plan means for recovering their independence. At 
the moment the order was given for the destruction of the idols, a 
chief named Kekoakalane treacherously seized the war god, and 
joined by a party of rebels fled with it to Owyhee, where he hoped 
to excite the inhabitants in his favour, and to establish himself as an 
independent chief; but he was closely pursued by the gallant Kry- 
makoo, and slain at Lakelakee, and hence that place has become 
celebrated, as the spot on which the last struggle for idolatry 
occurred. Another insurrection soon afterwards occurred at 
Atooi, which was quieted by the courage and promptitude of 
Rio-Rio, who embarked with a few faithful followers in a canoe, 
and in a personal conference brought the rebels back to their duty. 
Atooi was the last of the Sandwich Islands that was reduced to 
subjection by Tamehameha, and its chiefs were constantly on the 
watch for opportunities of recovering their independence. Russia, 
or at least her subjects, taking advantage of the disaffected state of 
Atooi, landed some guns upon that island, and erected a fort, which 
was taken possession of by the natives. Krymakoo, however, with 
a body of followers from Woahoo, overthrew the rebels. The 



350 VOYACE TO THE pacific [Jan. 

chief being permitted to choose the manner of his death, desired 
that he might be carried to sea, and be drowned by having a weight 
fastened round his neck. In addition to this attempt of the Rus- 
sians to separate Atooi from the kingdom, it was supposed that 
America was also desirous of forming a settlement upon one of the 
islands. Rio-Rio foreseeing that occasional rebellions might arise 
in his dominions, through the interference of foreign powers, deter- 
mined on a voyage to England to have a personal interview with 
the king, under whose protection the islands had been placed by 
Tamehameha, and also, perhaps, from a desire to see the country 
which furnished articles so superior to the manufacures of his own 
dominions. 

The death of Rio-Rio and his queen, it is well known, occurred 
in this visit to England. Their bodies were conveyed to the Sand- 
wich Islands by Lord Byron, in H. M. Ship Blonde, and lodged 
in a house built for the purpose, where they still remian.* Lord 
Byron having given the Chiefs, in Boki's words, " good advice" and 
having placed the crown upon the head of Kiukiuli, the brother of 
Rio-Rio, and seen the government confided to Krymakoo as regent, 
quitted the islands about ten months before our first arrival. 

Previous to the death of Tamehameha, several European houses 
appeared in Woahoo. Vessels and warlike stores had been pur- 
chased with sandal wood. The navigation of the Pacific became 
more general in consequence of the return of peace, and the islands 
were more frequently visited. The abolition of the taboo had al- 
ready produced an entire change in the state of society, and fre- 
quent interviews with foreigners created amongst the inhabitants a 
desire for dress and for luxuries, which was increased by the visit 
of the chiefs to England. Thus improvement advanced, as might 
have been expected under such advantageous circumstances as those 
in which the Sandwich Islands were placed. At that period of our 
visit there were in Woahoo several respectable American manu- 
facture, the productions of the China market, wines, and almost 
every article of sea-store. There were also two hotels, at which 
a person might board respectably for a dollar a day : two billiard 
rooms, one of which was the property of Boki : and ten or a dozen 
public houses for retailing spirits. The houses of the chiefs were 
furnished with tables and chairs, aud those belonging to Kahumana 
with silk and velvet sofas and cushions. Not contented with the 
comforts of life, they latterly sought its luxuries, and even indulged 

* In 1827,some of the Chiefs had been persuaded that it was improper to keep the 
bodies above ground, and these beautiful coffins covered with crimson velvet and 
silver were about to be lowered into the earth, as a commendable mortification of 
pride, when they were prevented by the timely arival of a gentleman from whom 
this account was derived. 



1826.] and beering's strait. 351 

in its extravagances. Kahumana filled chests, with the most costly 
silks of China, and actually expended four-thousand dollars upon 
the cargo of one vessel. Bold paid three thousand dollars for a ser- 
vice of plate as a present for the king, notwithstanding he had other 
services in his possession ; one of which was of expensively cut 
glass from Pellatt and Green in London. 

This progress of luxury was attended by an equally remarkable 
change in the civil and political arrangments of the country. At 
the period of our visit the king was always attended by a guard un- 
der arms ; a sentinel presented his musket when an officer entered 
the threshold of the royal abode : soldiers paraded the ramparts of a 
fort mounting forty-guns ; and " all's well" was repeated through- 
out the town during the night. The harbour in the spring and au- 
tumn was crowded with foreign vessels, as many even as fifty hav- 
ing been seen there at one time ; five thousand stand of arms 
were said to be distributed over the island ; three hundred men 
were embodied and dressed in regimentals ; and the Sandwich 
Island flag was daily displayed by five brigs and eight schooners. 
The islands had already received consuls from Great Britian and 
the United States ; had concluded treaties of alliance with them ; 
and we have just heard that their spirit of enterprize has induced 
them to fit out and despatch an expedition to take possession of 
some of the islands of the New Hebrides. 

This state of advancement, considering the remoteness of the 
situation of these islands, and the little intercourse they have hith- 
erto held with the civilized world, could hardly have been anticipa- 
ted ; and we hope it may not prove too rapid to be advantageous 
to the country, which has now several extensive establishments to 
maintain, and extravagant ideas to satisfy, with means evidently di- 
minishing, if not nearly exhausted. The treasures accumulated by 
Tamehameha, and the supply of that precious wood which has 
been so instrumental in bringing the islands into notice, have been 
drained to meet the expenses of ruinous purchases which have ma- 
terially contributed to the apparent show of grandeur and prosperity 
above mentioned. The sandal wood, it is known, requires many 
years to arrive at a fit state for the market, and its cultivation not 
having been attended to, the wood is now bocoming scarce, while 
the debt of the nation has considerable increased. During our visit, 
in order to avoid the expense attending the collection of this wood 
it became necessary to levy a tax upon the people of a pecul, or 
1331b. each, which they were required to bring from the mountains, 
under a penalty of four dollars, and to deposit with the authorities 
at Honoruru for the purpose of liquidating the debt of the nation. 
The greater part of the wood brought in was small and crooked, 
and only fit for the use of the Jos houses in China, where it is 



352 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Nov- 

burned as incense, but the consumption of it there is diminishing 
in consequence of an order for its disuse in those places of worship. 
The odour of the sandal Wood of the Sandwich Islands is very in- 
ferior that of Malabar, Ceylon, and other parts of India, With the 
exception of the profits arising from the sale of sandal wood, of salt, 
and from the port dues, and from the advantage derived from mer- 
chant vessels visiting the islands for refreshments, there is no reve- 
nue of consequence ; certainly none that is at all adequate to meet 
the expenses of the nation. 

The chiefs, foreseeing the approaching crisis, are anxious to avail 
themelves of any prospect of an increase of revenue. Thus at- 
tempts have been made to manufacture sugar from the canes which 
grow very abundantly and in great luxuriance in the islands ; and 
I sincerely hope that Mr. Marini, who has hitherto been of the 
greatest benefit to the government of Woahoo, may suceed in the 
mill which he was constructing for this purpose during our visit. 
But machines of this nature have already cost a very large sum, 
and have not hitherto succeeded, partly, perhaps, in consequence 
of the want of proper materials. A cargo of this sugar it was 
hoped would be ready for exportation in 1827, which was then to 
be carried to the Californian market, where, as it has already been 
said, sugar attains a high price. But the Sandwich Islands, until 
much more advanced in the science of cultivation, will always have 
to compete with manilla in the sale of this material. Tobacco, 
coffee, and spices have been introduced into the islands, and it is 
to be hoped they will succeed under the fostering had of the inde- 
fatigable individual before mentioned. An attempt was made to 
encourage the planting of cotton, which was tolerably successful 
the first year, but for some reasons, which were ascribed to the 
rigid observance of the church duties, the labourers were prevent- 
ed from gathering the crop, and it rotted in the pod. It is particu- 
larly unfortunate that the attempt to cultivate this plant, which 
would be of great advantage to the islands, should have failed both 
in the Society and Sandwich groups, as it will probably discourage 
the inhabitants from any further endeavour to produce it. Salt has 
been collected from some lakes near the town, and for some time 
past has produced a small revenue. Hereafter it is likely to be in 
greater request, for the purpose of curing meat for sea store, or for 
exportation to Kamschatka, where it is in great demand. Flax of 
a good quality grows upon Owhyhee, and rope for the vessels of 
the country is made from a species of urtica ? As yet, however, 
the sandal wood is the only material that has produced any revenue 
of consequence. 

Soon after the Christian religion had been introduced into the 
Sandwich Islands, several of the chiefs were taught to read and write, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 353 

and were so delighted at the idea of being able to communicate their 
thoughts to friends at a distance, without the necessity of disclosing 
them, and free from the risk of misinterpretation, that some of the 
scholars laboured at their task as if the prosperity of the islands depen- 
ded upon penmanship alone. Education in other respects has 
made much slower progress than every well-wisher of the country 
could desire. A few individuals who have had the advantage of 
continued instruction, have acquired a limited knowledge of the 
Scriptures, but many remain ignorant even of the nature of the 
prayers they repeat ; and in other subjects are entirely uninstructed. 

The missionaries appear to be very anxious to difuse a due 
knowledge of the tenets of the Gospel among all the inhabitants, 
and have laboured much to accomplish their praiseworthy purpose : 
but the residents in Honururu well know what little effect their tu- 
tors having mistaken the means of diffusing education. In the San- 
dwich Islands, as in all other places, there is a mania for every 
thing new, and, with due, reverence to the subject, this wa&«,very 
much the case with religion in Honoruru, where almost every person 
might be seen hastening to the school with a slate in his hand, in 
the hope of being able soon to transcribe some part of the pala pa- 
la (the Scriptures). This feeling under judicious management 
might have produced the greatest blessings Woahoo could have en- 
joyed : and the gentlemen of the mission might have congratulated 
themselves on having bestowed upon the inhabitants very important 
benefits. But they were misled by the eagerness of their hopes, 
and their zeal carried them beyond the limits calculated to prove 
beneficial to the temporal interests of a people, still in the earliest 
stage of civilization. The apparent thirst after scriptural knowl- 
edge in Honoruru created a belief among the missionaries that this 
feeling was become general, and auxiliary schools were established 
in different parts of the island, at which we were informed every 
adult was required to attend several times a day. 

While this demand upon their time was confined within reasona- 
ble limits, the chiefs, generally, were glad to find their subjects lis 
ten to instruction ; but when men were obliged to quit their work, 
and to repair to the nearest auxiliary school so frequently during 
the day, so much mischief was produced by loss of labour, and 
such ruinous consequences threatened the country, that many of 
the chiefs became desirous of checking it. Kahumana and her 
party, however, persisted in considering it desirable, and in suppor- 
ting the missionaries ; while a powerful party, at the head of which 
were the king and the regent, exerted themselves to counteract 
their endeavours. Thus dissensions arose very prejudicial both to 
the cause of religion and to the interests of the country. The 
chiefs lost their influence, the subjects neglected their work, 
45 



354 voyage to the PACinc [Jan. 

on the one side, and intemperance on the other, became the pre- 
vailing errors of the time ; the latter indulged in probably to a great- 
er extent, with the view of bringing ridicule on the opposite party ; 
a scheme in which it is said that Bold himself condescended to join. 

At length the regent and other chiefs determined to break through 
this rigid discipline. The ten commandments had been recom- 
mended as the sole law of the land. This proposition was obsti- 
nately opposed ; a meeting was called by the missionaries to justify 
their conduct, at which they lost ground by a proposal that the 
younger part of the community only should be obliged to attend the 
schools, and that the men should be permitted to continue at their 
daily labour. The king, whose riding, bathing, and other exercises 
had been restricted, now threw off all restraint, and appeared in 
public wearing the sword and feather belonging to the uniform pre- 
sented to him from this country by Lord Byron, which his precep- 
tor had forbid him to use, under the impression that it might excite 
his vanity. The boys, following the example of their youthful 
sovereign, resumed their games, which had been suppressed : and 
among other acts which, though aparently trifling discovered to the 
common people a spirit of opposition, and an earnestness on the 
part of the chiefs to overthrow the system that had been brought 
into operation, Koanoa, who had long been enarmoured of a female 
chief, Kenow, whom Kahumana intended for the king (although 
she was old enough to be his mother), being refused the marriage 
ceremony by the mission, carried off the object of his desire, and 
took her to his home. 

This was the state in which we found Woahoo, and from it the 
missionaries might exact a useful lesson while imparting religious 
instruction to mankind, of the necessity of combining their temporal 
interests with those which relate to their prospects of futurity. 

It was supposed, from the manner in which Kahumana persever- 
ed in her support of the missionaries, that she was actuated by a 
deeper policy than appeared. Her jealousy at the investment of 
the sovereign power in the king and Boki was well known ; and it 
was surmised that she entertained hopes of creating a party which 
in the event of the death of Pitt, then daily expected, would for- 
ward her ambitious views. Whether this surmise was just I do not 
pretend to say ; but she certainly did not succeed, that event hav- 
ing passed off during our stay without any movement in her fa- 
vour. 

Amidst this conflicting interest of parties, we were gratified to ob- 
serve the cordiality between the chiefs and the English and Amer- 
ican residents, neither of whom took part in these State quarrels. 
To strengthen this feeling, a public dinner was given by the offi 
cers of the Blossom and myself to the king and all the royal family, 



1827.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 355 

the consuls, the chiefs, and the principal merchants resident in the 
place. On this occasion the king was received with the honours 
due to his rank. He was dressed in full uniform, and altogether 
made a very elegant appearance. His behaviour at table was 
marked with the greatest propriety, and though he seemed fully 
aware of the superiority of Europeans, he appeared at the same 
time conscious that the attentions he received were no more than a 
just tribute to his rank. Boki, the regent, Koanoa, the colonel of 
troops, and Manuia, the captain of the port, were dressed in the 
Windsor uniform ; and Kahumana, and the two female chiefs next 
in rank, were arrayed in silk dresses, and had expended a profu- 
sion of lavender-water upon their cambric handkerchiefs. Many 
loyal and patriotic toasts succeeded the dinner, some of which were 
proposed by Boki, in compliment to the king of England and the 
President of the United States, between both of whom and his roy- 
al protege he expressed a hope that the warmest friendship would 
always subsist. The chiefs drank to the health of several persons 
who had shown them attention in London, and in compliment to 
the ladies of England proposed as a toast, "■ The pretty girls of the 
Adelphy." Throughout the day the islanders acquitted themselves 
very creditably, and their conduct showed a close observance of 
European manners. 

A few days afterwards the king gave an entertainment, at which 
his guests were seated at a long table spread in the European style, 
and furnished with some very good wines. Among other good 
things we had Leuhow, a dish of such delicious quality that excur- 
sions are occasionally made to the plantations for the pleasure of 
dining upon it ; and, from this circumstance, a pic-nic and a Leu- 
how party have become nearly synonymous. The ingredients of 
the dish are generally the tops of the taro plant and mullet which 
have been fattened in ponds ; these are wrapped in large leaves 
and baked in the ground, though sometimes fowls and pork are 
used. In order to amuse us, the king had also assembled several 
dancers and the best bards in the island ; and we had the pleasure 
of witnessing some native performances, which were the more inter- 
esting, as these entertainments will shortly lose all their originality 
by the introduction of foreign customs. On the present occasion, 
indeed, it was difficult to procure performers of any celebrity, and 
both bards and dancers were sent for from a considerable distance ; 
and even then only two of the latter were considered worth our 
notice. The performance opened with a song in honour of Tam- 
ehameha, to which succeeded an account of the visit of Rio Rio 
and his queen to England ; their motives for undertaking the voy- 
age were explained ; their parting with their friends at Woahoo ; 
their sea-sickness ; their landing in England : the king's attempts 



356 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

to speak English ; the beautiful women of this country ; and the 
sickness and death of the youthful royal pair, were described with 
much humour, good-nature, and feeling. 

The natives were delighted with this performance, especially 
with that part which exhibited the sea-sickness, and the efforts of 
the king to speak English ; but our slight acquaintance with the 
language did not enable us fully to appreciate the allusions. In the 
next performance, however, this defect was less felt. The song 
was executed by three celebrated bards, whose grey beards hung 
down upon their breasts : they were clothed in their rude native 
costume, and each had the under part of his right arm tattooed in 
straight lines from the wrist to the armpit. They accompanied 
themselves upon drums made of two gourds neatly joined together, 
and ornamented with black devices. Each bard had one of these 
instruments attached to his left wrist by a cord ; the instrument 
was placed upon a cushion, and the performer throughout measured 
time by beating with his right hand upon the aperture of the gourd. 
The subject related to the illustrious Tamehameha, whose warlike 
exploits are the constant theme of these people. Occasionally 
the bards seemed to be inspired ; they struck their left breasts vio- 
lently with the palms of their hands, and performed a number of 
evolutions with their drums, all of which were executed simulta- 
neously, and with ease, decision, and grace. On the whole it was ' 
an exhibition very creditable to the talents of the performers. To 
this succeeded several dances : the first, performed by a native of 
Atooi, was recommended principally by a display of muscular en- 
ergy ; the next was executed by a man who was esteemed the 
most accomplished actor of his time in Woahoo, and the son of the 
most celebrated dancer the islands ever had. He wore an abund- 
ance of native cloth, variously stained, wrapped about his waist, 
and grass ornaments fixed upon his legs above the ancles. A gar- 
land of green leaves passed over his right shoulder and under his 
left arm, and a wreath of yellow blossoms, very commonly worn in 
the Sandwich Islands, was wound twice round his head. Unlike 
the former dance, the merit of this consisted in an exhibition of 
graceful action, and a repetition of elegant and unconstrained move- 
ments. 

The dance of the females was spoiled by a mistaken refinement, 
which prevented their appearing, as formerly, with no other dress 
than a covering to the hips, and a simple garland of flowers upon 
the head ; instead of this they were provided with frilled chemises, 
which so far from taking away the appearance of indecency, pro- 
duced an opposite effect, and at once gave the performance a stamp 
of indelicacy. In this dance, which by the way is the only one the 
females of these islands have, they ranged themselves in a line, and 



1827.] and beering's strait. 357 

began swinging the arms carelessly, but not ungracefully, from side 
to side ; they then proceeded to the more active part of the dance, 
the principal art of which consisted in twisting the loins without 
moving the feet or the bust. After fatiguing themselves in accom- 
plishing this to the satisfaction of the spectators, they jumped side- 
wise, still twisting their bodies, and accompanying their actions with 
a chorus, the words of which we supposed bore some allusion to 
the performance. We had afterwards a sham-fight with short 
spears, wherein very little skill was exhibited, and, compared with 
the dexterity of the warlike Tamebameha, who is said by Van- 
couver to have successfully evaded six spears thrown at him at the 
same instant, the present representation was quite contemptible. 
These exercises are now seldom practised, and in a short time, no 
doubt, both they and the dances will cease to be exhibited. 

On the 12th of February, we received the melancholy intelli- 
gence of the death of Krymakoo, who had long suffered under a 
dropsical complaint, for which he had undergone frequent operations. 
Only four days previously he went to bathe in the sea at Kairnu, in 
Owyhee, and on coming out of the water he was taken ill, and died 
very soon afterwards. He was at an advanced age, and had been 
present at the death of our immortal countryman in Karakakoa Bay, 
and perfectly recollected that fatal transaction. Krymakoo, or, as 
he was more generally called, Pitt, from the circumstance of his 
being a contemporary prime minister with our great statesman, be- 
came a protege of Tamehameha shortly after the departure of 
Cook's ships. He is first introduced to our notice by Vancouver, 
who particularly remarks his superior manners and conduct. His 
life was devoted to the adantage of his country, and to the support 
of his illustrious patron, in whose service he distinguished himself 
alike as a warrior and a counsellor. Intelligent, faithful, and brave, 
he was confided in and beloved by his king and his countrymen, and 
he was a chief in whom the foreign residents place implicit reli- 
ance. His ardent spirit and anxiety for the welfare of his country 
led Tamehameha on one or two occasions of insurrection to suspect 
his fidelity, and in order to put it to the test he is said to have de- 
prived him for the time of his estates ; an act of injustice, calculated 
rather to increase than to allay any dissatisfaction that might have 
existed in his mind. Pitt, nevertheless, remained faithful, and 
fought by the side of his patron. After the death of Tamehameha, 
he enjoyed almost sovereign power, which he employed to the 
benefit and civilization of his countrymen. His command of tem- 
per was not less praiseworthy than his other virtues. On the occa- 
sion of some misunderstanding between the missionaries and the sea- 
men of an American vessel, the crew went on shore with the view of 
burning Mr. Bingham's house, but, mistaking the place, they set 



358 VOYAGE TO THE pacific [Feb. 

fire to one belonging to Pitt. The natives immediately flew to pro- 
tect the property of their favourite chief, and a serious quarrel was 
about to take place, to the disadvantage of the Americans, when 
Pitt, who had escaped the flames, harangued the mob with the 
greatest composure, induced them to desist from acts of violence, 
and persuaded the crew, who by this time had discovered their 
mistake, to return to their vessel. It has been asserted of Pitt that 
he was extremely ambitious ; but his ambition seems to have had 
no other object than the welfare of his country : had he aspired to 
the crown, there were many favourable opportunities of which he 
might have availed himself without much risk of failure, of which 
the death of Tamehameha, the revolt of Kekoakalane, the insur- 
rection of Atooi, and others, are sufficient instances. He left one 
son, whom he was very anxious to have educated in England, and 
pressed his request so earnestly that I had consented to take him 
on board the Blossom, but the vessel which was sent to bring him 
from Owyhee returned hastily with the news of the death of the 
chief, which frustrated the plan. Immediately this event was known, 
the flags of the forts and the shipping were lowered half-mast, and 
the shores of the bay resounded with the wailings of the inhab- 
itants. 

It had been supposed that the ambition and jealousy of Kahu- 
mana and the conflicting interests of the chiefs would have display- 
ed themselves in insurrection on this occasion, and that the disaf- 
fected chiefs would have availed themselves of this moment to 
remove the supreme power from the hands of the young king; 
but, whatever results this melancholy event might have produced 
had it occurred at an earlier date, nothing was now attempted. Boki, 
however, thought it prudent to assemble the troops in the fort, and 
the Blossom was put in readiness to preserve order, if necessary, 
and to receive the foreign residents, should their safety require it. 
Anxious to witness the effect of this occurrence upon the court, I 
immediately paid a visit of condolence to Kahumana, who was 
seated amidst a motley assemblage of attendants, looking very sor- 
rowful. It appeared, however, from the following incident, that 
the sincerity of her grief was questionable. Happening to cast 
her eye upon a Bramah inkstand which I wSs conveying to the 
observatory, she seized it with both hands, and declared, her coun- 
tenance brightening into a smile, how much she should like to have 
it. As it was the only one I possessed'; I did not intend at first to 
gratify her majesty's wishes, but she fairly tore it from me : so that, 
making a virtue of necessity, I presented it to her. After bestow- 
ing some praise upon the invention, she passed it toKarui, a female, 
chief next in rank to herself, and then dismissing her pleasant looks, 



1827.] and beering's strait, 359 

she resumed her sorrow, and convinced every person present that 
she was quite an adept in this barbarons custom of the country. 

Many of the court seemed to consider this moment one of ap- 
prehension, and every person who approached the queen's abode 
was at first supposed be the bearer of the news of some insurrec- 
tion or other convulsion of the state. As he entered the room, 
therefore, there was a dead silence ; but when it was found that 
these visits were made merely to inquire after the health of the 
queen, the wailing, as if it had suffered by the disappointment, 
burst forth with redoubled energy. Kahumana herself evidently 
anticipated some disturbance, for she whispered to me to be upon 
my guard, as there was a probability that the people would be mis- 
chievous. Nothing, however, occurred to disturb the tranquillity 
of the town but the wailings around the royal abode. 

It is unnecessary here to describe many instances of the extent 
to which this hypocritical affectation of grief was carried ; suffice 
it to say, that several persons, as if determined to perpetuate the 
barbarous practice of self-mutilation, knocked out their front teeth 
with hammers. 

The queen almost immediately after the death of her brother 
embarked for Owyhee in a native schooner, to the great satisfaction 
of the chiefs and the European residents in Woahoo. As it was 
probably the last time she would see us, she was complimented with 
a royal salute on leaving the barbour. 



360 VOYACE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Further Remarks on the Inhabitants — Treaty of Alliance — Climate — Medicinal Pro- 
perties of the Ava — Supplies — Departure — Passage to China — Ladrone and Ba- 
shee Islands — Arrival at Macao — Transactions there — Departure — Botel Tobago 
Xima — Arrival at the Great Loo Choo. 

On the return of the ship to the Sandwich Islands the chiefs 
were very anxious to learn where she had been, and to be informed 
whether in some of the countries she had visited, the produce of 
their dominions might not find a favourable market. Kahumana, 
in particular, was so much interested in these inquiries that she 
condescended to direct her attention to them, and laid aside a mis- 
sionary book with which she had been instructing her mind while 
the back part of her body was undergoing the soothing operation of 
being pinched by one of her female attendants. The conversation 
happening to turn upon Bird Island, Boki, on hearing it was so 
near to the Sandwich group, meditated its addition to the domin- 
ions of the king, no doubt under the impression of its being similar 
to one of the Sandwich Islands, and was greatly disappointed when 
informed that the island was not worth his possession. The account 
of the high price of sugar in California quite put him in good hu- 
mour with his sugar-mills, which for some time past had been a sub- 
ject of annoyance to him, in consequence of the expense incurred 
by their continually breaking. All parties were evidently desirous 
to extend their commerce, and a spirit of enterprise appeared to 
have diffused itself amongst them, which it is to be hoped may 
continue. 

During our absence two important political events had occurred 
— the negociation of a treaty of alliance between Captain Jones, 
of the United States' sloop Peacock, on the part of America, and 
Boki, the regent, on the part of the Sandwich Islands ; by which 
the reception of the American vessels in the Sandwich Islands, on 
the footing of the most favoured nation, was guaranteed to America 
in the event of that nation being involved in hostilities with any 
other power. The other was the resignation of Pitt, who, being 



1827.] AND BEERINO'S STRAIT. 361 

aware of his approaching dissolution, retired to Owyhee, and left 
his brother Bold to act as regent. Boki, who it may remembered, 
accompanied the late king Rio-Rio to England appears to have 
derived much benefit from that visit, and on his return to the Sand- 
wich Islands to have become very desirous of improving the con- 
dition of his countrymen. He was, however, a less active govern- 
or than Pitt, and less capable of effecting those changes which ex- 
perience had nevertheless convinced him were necessary for their 
advancement. 

The town of Honoruru had now a more cleanly and lively ap- 
pearance than on our former visit, and the streets, occupied by 
happy little children who had resumed their games, wore a more 
cheerful aspect. There was an improvement also in the society 
of the place, arising apparently from the arrival of some Europe- 
ans, particularly of the consul's family, which was of very great 
advantage to the females of Woahoo, who seemed anxious to imi- 
tate their manners, and were so desirous of becoming acquainted 
with the method of arranging their different articles of dress, that 
it required an unusual share of good nature to avoid taking offence 
at the rude manner in which they gratified their curiosity. The fe- 
males of Woahoo are shrewd observers of these matters, and on 
great occasions endeavour to imitate foreigners as nearly as they 
can ; but the powerful influence of fashion has not been yet able 
entirely to get the better of that other powerful principle, early 
habit, and the women of the Sandwich Islands in retirement still 
adhere to their old customs, affording as curious an instance as 
was ever beheld of barbarism walking hand in hand with civili- 
zation. 

The lower class of the inhabitants of Woahoo have varied their 
dress very little from its original style ; though in Honoruru some 
females may be seen clothed in the cotton of Europe, and even in 
the silks of China, with green and red shoes, and sometimes with 
parasols. They obtain these articles as presents from the crews of 
such ships as touch at the port. In every uncivilized country which 
has as much foreign intercourse as Woahoo, incongruities must be 
of frequent occurrence ; thus we were daily in the habit of seeing 
ladies disencumber themselves of their silks, slippers, and parasols, 
and swim off in fine style to different vessels, carrying their bundles 
on their heads, and resuming their finery when they got on board. 
Nor was it less amusing to observe them jump overboard soon after 
daylight, and continue sporting and swimming about the vessels in 
the harbour like so many nereids ; practices to which they adhere 
with as much fondness as ever. Many, however, now think it ne- 
cessary to put on a bathing gown when they take this recreation. 

46 



362 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

The men make very tolerable seamen, and are particularly use- 
ful in boats. Accustomed from their infancy to the water, they 
are as much at home in that element as on land ; and having fre- 
quently encountered gales of wind at sea in their open canoes, 
they have no .apprehension of them on board a strongly built ship. 
They are active and honest, and many of them are taken on board 
merchant ships visiting the islands, as part of their crews. 

In the course of time it is to be hoped that they will become 
sufficiently enlightened to navigate their own vessels, as they at 
present depend upon foreigners for the performance of that service. 
Their vessels are now generally chartered to Americans, who bear 
a certain proportion of the expenses of the voyage, and have carte 
blanche to proceed where they please, and to collect, sell, and pur- 
chase cargoes at their discretion, -and as it may seem most advan- 
tageous for themselves and the owners, who divide the profits of the 
venture at the end of the voyage. Their occupation consists prin- 
cipally in trading with California and the islands of the Pacific, or 
in making sealing voyages ; in which case the skins they obtain are 
carried to some foreign market, and the proceeds applied to the 
purchase of anew cargo adapted to the wants of the Sandwich Is- 
landers ; such as horses, or furniture, and other household materi- 
als. Upon the whole, these returns are said to be by no means 
equal to the risk and expenses of the voyage ; and the ships, being 
built of slight materials, require constant repair, and soon wear 
out : so that their navy, at present, is of no great advantage to the 
state. 

No duties have as yet been imposed on any goods, either impor- 
ted or exported, and the only charges made by the government are 
the port dues, which are very prudently lighter on vessels touch- 
ing at the islands for refreshments only, than upon those which 
bring cargoes of merchandize : the charge in the former case is six, 
and in the latter fifty cents per ton for the outer anchorage, and 
ten and sixty cents per ton respectively for the inner anchorage. 

The Sandwich Islanders will apparently make as good soldiers as 
they do sailors, and are so proud of the honour of being embodied 
in the corps of the state, that they cannot suffer a greater disgrace 
than to have the regimentals taken from them and to be turned out 
of the ranks. They were repatedly drilled by our serjeant of mar- 
ines, and though under the disadvantage of not understanding the 
language in which the word of command was given, they improved 
quite as much as men in general would have done who had been 
in the habit of seeing the exercise performed. The inhabitants ap- 
pear disposed to learn any thing that does not require labour, and 
soldiering soon became so completely a mania, that the king had 
the choice of his subjects ; and little boys were seen in all parts 



1827. J and beering's STRAIT. 363 

of the town tossing up a sugar cane, with a " shoulder urap !" and 
some of the troop, even after being dismissed, would rehearse the 
lesson of the day by themselves. The islanders have a good idea 
of acting in concert, derived from their early exercise of the palalu, 
so interestingly described by Vancouver, in which they Were ac- 
customed to form solid squares ; and when engaged, presented a for- 
midable phalanx, which it was not easy to force. 

Among other services which we performed for the king was an 
inspection of his cannon in the forts, some of which were so cor- 
roded, that in all probability their discharge would have been pro- 
ductive of serious accidents to some of his subjects. We also 
furnished him with twenty tons of stones, which we had taken in 
at Chamisso Island as ballast, to be used in rebuilding the wall of 
his mud fort. 

It is unnecessary to describe further the inhabitants of a country 
which has already been the subject of several volumes. Enough 
has been said to show that the people are fast imbiding foreign 
customs, and daily improving both in their manners and dress. 

The harbour of Honoruru is the general rendezvous of all the 
whale ships employed in the North Pacific Ocean. In the spring 
time these vessels assemble here to the number of forty or fifty sail 
at a time, and take on board large supplies of vegetables and fruit, 
as sea stock, to enable them to remain upon their fishing ground 
until the autumn, when many of them return to the port. The 
fresh provision which they procure at these islands is of the great- 
est advantage to the crews of the whalers, who would otherwise be 
afflicted with scurvy ; and the goods which they give in exchange 
are very acceptable to the inhabitants. A number of idle dissolute 
seamen however, discontented with their ships, generally remain 
behind, and live in the public houses until their money and clothes 
are expended, or attach themselves to females, and in either way 
become dependent upon the inhabitants for food. These characters 
do infinite mischief to the lower order of the natives, by encourag- 
ing them in intemperance, debauchery, idleness and all kinds of 
vice ; nearly sufficient of themselves to counteract all the labours 
of the missionaries in the diffusion of morality and religion. 

The harbour is formed by a coral reef, which extends along the 
coast from the Pearl River to Wytiete Bay, but connected with the 
shore^at intervals, so as to impede the passage of vessels. The 
entrance is very narrow and intricate, and vessels are generally 
towed in early in the morning, before the breeze freshens. There 
is a rock nearly mid-channel upon which the sea generally breaks. 
Sometimes indeed it breaks quite across the entrance, and renders 
it necessary at that time, in particular, to employ a pilot. The depth 
in the channel at high water is about eighteen feet ; but as I did 



364 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

not make a plan of this port, in consequence of Lieutenant Mai- 
den of the Blonde having so recently executed all that was neces- 
sary in that respect, I cannot speak positively. In sailing along 
the- reefs in boats it is necessary to keep at a considerable distance 
on account of the sudden rise of the sea, which is very apt to fill 
or upset them when it breaks ; and boats should not at any time 
pull for the entrance until the have gained a proper station off it. 

The climate of the Sandwich Islands is more refreshing than 
that of Otaheite ; although the group is scarcely farther from the 
equator. I am not aware that any register has been kept for a 
whole year at Otaheite ; but at Woahoo this has been done by the 
gentlemen attached to the missions, from which it appears that the 
mean temperature for 1821 was 75°, the maximum 88°, and the 
minimum 59°, and that the daily range on an average was about 
13°. In the last fortnight of May 1826, we found the maximum 
83°, and minimum 74°; and in the last fortnight of Februrary 1827, 
maximum 80, and minimum 58°. 

The N. E. trade wind, in general, blows strong to the windward 
of the Sandwich Islands, though for many miles to leeward of them 
frequent calms and light baffling winds prevail, and impede the 
navigation between the islands. About the period of the rainy 
season these winds are interrupted by gales from north-west to south- 
west, but when they cease the trade resumes its usual course. The 
duration of this season at Woahoo is from February to May. In 
1826 it was over on the 19th of May; and in 1827, it began on 
the 17th of February. At this period the rains are occasionally 
very heavy; in 1826 and 1830, I have been informed they were 
particularly so ; at other times, however, the reverse takes place, 
and from August 1821, to the same month of the following year, 
it appears by the register of the missionaries that there were but 
forty days on which rain fell. 

The windward sides of the islands are said to be much colder, 
and to be subject to more rain than those to leeward. They are 
also liable to fogs in the spring of the year, while those which are 
opposite are enjoying sunshine. The mountains, from their height, 
act upon the atmosphere as powerful condensers, and in particular 
times of the year are scarcely ever free from mists ; these are oc- 
casionally detached by gusts of wind and carried over the parts of 
the island, and it is not unusual in Honoruru to experience a pretty 
sharp sprinkling of rain without perceiving any cloud from whence 
it proceeds. 

Water-spouts not unfrequently visit these islands, one of which 
I was told burst over the harbour of Honoruru, discharging such a 
quantity of water that the sea rose three feet. I have repeatedly 
seen this phenomenon on a small scale carrying a column of dust 



18*27.] and bkering's stbait. 365 

along the plains near Honoruru, and whirling hats into the air ; 
and I once saw a native boy greatly puzzled to escape from its in- 
fluence. 

I shall conclude these remarks with some observations on the 
use and effects of the ava, a root which was formerly in much use 
in the Pacific, taken from the Journal of the surgeon of the Bloss- 
om. The intoxicating property of the ava root, the cutaneous 
eruption which succeeds its use, and the renovating effect it has 
upon the constitution, have been noticed ever since the dis- 
covery of the Society Islands. Mr. Collie observes, that — " a 
course of it is most beneficial in renovating constitutions which 
have been worn out by hard living, long residence in warm climates, 
without, however, affections of the liver, and by protracted chronic 
diseases ; more especially if the disorder be such as by the humoral 
pathologists would be attributed to an attenuated or acrid state of 
the blood." He had an opportunity of seeing "a gentleman, a 
foreigner, who had undergone a course of it to remove a cutaneous 
affection said to have been similar to St. Anthony's fire. It had 
affected at different times almost every part of the body, going 
from one place to another, but had been particularly obstinate in 
one leg. He took two doses a day of half a pint each, one before 
breakfast and one before dinner, by which his appetite was sharp- 
ened ; and by the time he had finished his meal a most pleasing 
state of half intoxication had come on, so that he was just able 
to go to his couch, where he enjoyed a sound and refreshing sleep. 

" About the second or third week, the eyes became suffused with 
blood, and the cuticle around them began to scale, when the whole 
surface of the body assumed the appearance above described. 
The first does is continued for a week or so, according to the dis- 
ease, and then gradually left off. The skin clears at the same time, 
and the whole system is highly benefited. 

" I recommended the ava, and had an opportunity of seeing the 
first effects upon a man affected with chronic superficial ulceration, 
affecting the greater part of the toes, and the anterior part of the 
soles of the feet. The legs and feet were cedematous and swelled ; 
the pain was very distressing, preventing any sound repose, and not 
permitting him even to lie down or bring them up, so as to be near 
a line horizontal with the body. The ulcers were covered with a 
tough, viscid, dark-coloured discharge that adhered to the surface, 
and entirely concealed it. His frame was emaciated, pulse quick 
and irritable, appetite gone, tongue dry and reddish ; he had taken 
mercurial preparations at two previous periods, as he said, with con- 
siderable benefit ; but for want of the medicines it was stopped, 
when the sores were nearly healed. He had been, and I believe 



866 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

still was, addicted to drinking spirituous liquors. The ava was 
given three times a day with the same immediate effects as before 
mentioned, and at the end of ten days the ulcers were clean and 
healing. From the commencement of the course he had been able 
to lie down, allowing his feet to hang over the bed-side ; he had 
slept soundly, and his appetite was good. Could he have procured 
and applied a suitable dressing for the ulcers, with appropriate sup- 
port to the cedematous extremities, I have no hesitation in saying 
that the plan would have succeeded. Even with all these disad- 
vantages, I am inclined to believe that a cure will be effected if he 
abstains from liquor." 

In this account of the Sandwich Islands, I have avoided touch- 
ing upon subjects connected with the mythology, traditions, and 
early manners and customs of the islanders, from a conviction that 
I could give but an imperfect sketch of them, and from a hope that 
they will hereafter be laid before the public by the author of Pol- 
ynesian Researches, who from his intimate knowledge of the lan- 
guage, his long residence in the Pacific, and from the nature of his 
occupations, has greater opportunities of becoming acquainted with 
them than any other foreigner. My endeavour has been to give as 
faithful an account as I could of the government, and of the state of 
society in the islands at the time of our visit, and of the resources 
and commerce of the country. Had my occupations been less nu- 
merous, 1 might have done more justice to these subjects ; but the 
determination of the position of the place, and attention to other 
observations, occupied my time so completely, that I had very little 
leisure for other pursuits. 

During the absence of the ship from the Sandwich Islands, Cap- 
tain Charlton, the consul, had succeeded in procuring a supply of 
salt provision for her. This was the more opportune, as the meat 
which had been corned in California was found on examiation to 
be so bad that it was necessary to throw the whole of it overboard. 
We at first imagined that this failure proceeded from our ignorance 
of the method of curing the meat, but that which had been prepared 
at Monterey ; by a person brought up to the business, was found to 
be equally bad : and the failure, in all probability, arose from the 
heated and feverish state in which the animals were slaughtered. 
We frequently remonstrated with the governor of San Francisco 
against being obliged to kill the animals in this state, and begged he 
would have them penned up until the following day, as they were 
quite wild, and had been harassed with lassos, and dragged many miles 
by tame bullocks. We did not however, succeed, and if the animals 
were not slaughtered as they were delivered into our charge they ei- 
ther made their escape, or, as was the case with several, broke their 



1827.] and beeiung's strait. 367 

necks in their struggles for freedom. The present supply of provi- 
sion was consequently of the greatest importance. In addition to 
this we procured a few other stores, but not sufficient for the pur- 
pose, and there were no medicines to be had, so that it was still 
necessary to proceed to China. 

As soon as the ship was ready for sea, therefore, we endeavour- 
ed to sail, but the wind about this time blew from the south-west, 
and kept us imprisoned a fortnight ; the harbour of Honoruru being 
so difficult of egress, that unless the wind be fair, or there be a per- 
fect calm, a vessel cannot proceed to sea. On the 4th of March, 
however, we took our leave of the authorities and residents of the 
place, from both of whom we had received the greatest attention, 
and put to sea on our way to Macao. 

Upon leaving the Sandwich Islands I directed the course to the 
southward: and next day, having gained the latitude of 18° 32' N., 
I stood to the westward, with the intention of pursuing the above- 
mentioned parallel as far as the Ladrone Islands. I did this with 
a view of keeping fairly within the limit of the trade wind, which, at 
the season of the year in which this passage was made, is frequent- 
ly variable in a higher latitude, and even subject to interruptions 
from strong north-westerly winds. I was also desirous of ascertain- 
ing the position of an island bearing the name of Wake's Island, 
upon Arrowsmith's chart situated directly in the route between the 
Sandwich Islands and China. 

A fresh trade wind attended us until the fifth day after our depar- 
ture, when it was interrupted by a breeze from the southward. 
The serenity of the sky which accompanied the trade, now became 
obscured by heavy thunder clouds, which gathered around us until 
the night of the 6th, when they completely blackened the sky. 
We had lightning frequently during the day, which increased so 
much towards night, that from eight o'clock to day light the folow- 
ing morning, the sky presented an uninterupted blaze of light. It 
was unusually near ; the forked lightning passed between the masts 
several times, and the zenith occasionally presented a fiery mass of 
short curved lines, which shot off in different directions like as ma- 
ny arrows; while the heavy peals of thunder which generally ac- 
company these storms were subdued by crackling discharges not 
unlike the report of musketry from a long line of infantry. About 
the commencement of this storm the temperature fell four degrees, 
but gradually rose again to its former height. The sympeisometer 
was not sensibly affected. 

On the following day fine weather was restored, the trade took 
its proper direction ; and the sea, which had been much agitated 
by the changeable winds, abated, and we pursued a steady course. 
About four days afterwards a brilliant meteor was discharged from 



368 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Feb. 

the zenith towards the north-west, in the direction of some heavy 
clouds (nimbi), which were pouring down torrents of rain. It pre- 
sented a long bright liquid flame of a bluish cast, and was followed 
by a train of sparks, until it had reached within 15° of the horizon, 
when it exploded, and three distinct fragments, having the appear- 
ance of being red hot, were discharged. They gradually lost their 
brilliancy as they fell, and were quite extinguished before they 
came in contact with the water. With the exception of the nimbi 
in the north west, the sky was perfectly clear, particularly at 
the zenith, whence the meteor appeared first to be discharged. 
After these meteorological disturbances we had fine weather almost 
all the remainder of the passage. 

At two o'clock on the 15th we were within a few leagues of the 
situation of Wake's Island, and the ship was brought to until day- 
light; but seeing no land at that time we bore away again, and at 
noon were exactly on the spot where the island is placed in Arrow- 
smith's chart. A few tern and a gannet were seen about eight 
o'clock in the morning, but we had no other indications of land ; 
still in the expectation of falling in with it, we continued the course 
due west, and ran throughout the night, which was clear and fine, 
but without being more successful. I afterwards learned that the 
master of an American trader landed upon a coral island, nearly in 
the same longitude, in the latitude 19° 18' N. which is about twen- 
ty-three miles to the northward of the island in Arrowsmith's chart 
and in all probability is the same place. 

With fine weather and a fair wind we pursued our course, with- 
out experiencing any inconvenience except that occasioned by a 
long swell from the northward, which made the ship roll heavily al- 
most all the passage. On the 25th we saw the island of Assump- 
tion, and the next day passed close to it, in order to determine its posi- 
tion. The island is about a league in circumference, and rises 
from the sea in the perfect form of a cone to the height of 2,026 
feet. Time must have made an agreeable alteration in the appear- 
ance of this island since it was visited by La Perouse. Instead of 
a cone covered with lava and volcanic glass, and presenting the 
forbidding aspect he describes, we traced vegetation nearly to the 
summit, and observed woods of palm-trees skirting its base ; par- 
ticularly in the south-west side. We were more fortunate than La 
Perouse in obtaining a view of the crater formed at the apex of the 
cone ; it appeared very small and perfect, and to emit no smoke. 
La Perouse, in sailing to leeward of this island, experienced a 
strong sulphorous odour. There was none, however, when we 
visited the spot ; but it is very probable that the volcano may have 
been in action when he passed, which might also account for the 
desolation of which he speaks. 



1827.] and berring's strait. 369 

There appeared to be no danger near this island, but on the con- 
trary, judging from the deep blue colour of the sea, there was deep 
water close to the base of the island. The south-west side is the 
least abrupt, but even in that direction La Perouse informs us ships 
are obliged to come very close to the shore before they can find an- 
chorage, and then only with a very long scope of cable. This 
bank is formed of lava and scoriae, and, being on the leeward side 
of the island, has probably been raised by frequent eruptions of the 
volcano. There were no projections in any part of the island, that 
we could perceive, sufficient to afford protection to a boat attempt- 
ing to land, and the sea in consequence broke heavily against it in 
every direction. 

The day being clear, we looked to the southward for the island 
of Agrigan, which on Arrowsmith's chart is placed within twelve 
miles of the Mangs, but no land could be discerned in that direc- 
tion, and from the state of the weather, I should think there could 
not have been any within at least twelve leagues distance of us. 
This would make the channel between Assumption and Agrigan 
about forty miles wide ; the Jesuits extend it to sixty ; but this 
cannot be the case, as it would place Agrigan near the latitude 
of 18° 45' N. in which parallel Ybargottia, according to Espinosa, has 
placed the island of Pagon. It seems necessary, therefore, to con- 
tract the channel between Assumption and Agrigan as marked in 
the Jesuits' plan, and to reduce the size of Agrigan in order to rec- 
oncile the position of the islands. Arrowsmith has incorrectly 
placed the Mangs on the south side of Assumption : by our astro- 
nomical bearings they are situated N. 27° 7' 30" W. (true) from 
the south east end of this island, and are in Latitude 19° 57" 02' N. 
They consist of three high rocks, lying in a south-easterly di- 
rection.* 

From what I saw of the island of Assumption it appears to be a 
very proper headland for ships coming from the eastward and bound 
to Canton to steer for. It is high, and may be safely approached 
in the night if the weather is clear ; and there is a wide channel to 
the southward of it. It is far preferable to adopt this channel than 
to pass to the northward of the Mariana group, which is sometimes 
done : as I am credibly informed that there is much broken ground 

* It is somewhat remarkable that in passing to the southward of the island of As- 
sumption, at the distance of four miles and a half, we did not discover the rocks 
which Captain Freycinet has supposed to be the Mangs, situated in latitude 19° 32' 
N. Our latitude when in the meridian of Assumption was 19° 36' N. by which it 
is evident that we must have passed within four miles of these rocks, provided both 
latitudes be correct. Had I known of their existence at the time, I should certainly 
have stood to the southward, in order to connect them by triangulation with the 
Assumption and the Mangs ; but Captain Freycinet's discoveries were not then pub- 
lished. 

47 



370 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April, 

in that direction. We have as yet no good chart of this group of 
islands. 

Under the lee of the island we observed a great many birds, prin- 
cipally of the pelican tribe, of which there was a species supposed 
by our naturalists to be new. It is described as being smaller than 
the frigate-bird, and of a dark brown colour, with the exception of 
the belly and breast, which were white, and the bill, which was ei- 
ther white or of a light lead colour. 

From the Ladrones, I directed the course for the Bashee Islands 
and on the 7th of April, after experiencing light and variable winds, 
got sight of the two northern islands of that group. The long nor- 
therly swell, which had attended us almost all the way from the 
Sandwich Islands, ceased immediately we were to the westward of 
the Ladrones ; and indeed the sea between them and the Bashee 
Islands was so smooth that its heave was scarcely perceptible. We 
found by our observations that the magnetic meridian intersects the 
channel between these two groups of islands in the meridian of 226° 
48' W. in the latitude of 20° 12' N. 

The Bashee Islands, so called by the Buccaneers, in consequence 
of a drink of that name, which was extracted by the natives from the 
sugar-cane, form along group very similar to the Ladrones, and ex- 
tend in the same direction nearly from north to south. Until these 
Islands were surveyed by Captain Horsburg their positions were as 
incorrectly determined as those of the Ladrones are at present. A 
contrary wind, which rendered it necessary to beat through the chan- 
nel between them and Botel Tobago Xima, afforded an opportunity 
of connecting these islands trigonometrically, and of obtaining tran- 
sit bearings when in immediate stations between them. The longi- 
tude also was afterwards measured backwards and forwards between 
them and Macao, and we thus had an opportunity of examining 
the chart of Captain Horsburg, which appeared to be constructed 
with great truth and with his usual accuracy. 

I regret not having seen the Cumbrian reef; we stood purposely 
towards it until sun-set, and were within six miles of its situation 
when we were obliged to go about by the approach of night. 

The next day we stood toward the island of Formosa, and tack- 
ed within four miles of the Vele rete rocks, the largest of which has 
the appearance, of a vessel under sail. They lie off the south end 
of the island of Formosa,* and are surrounded by breakers, which 
in thick weather could not be approached with safety. We obser- 
ved strong ripples in the water near them ; but the wind did not per- 
mit us to enter any for the purpose of sounding ; late in the eve- 
ning, however, when we were several leagues from them, the weath- 

* The large rock bears S. 29° 09' 15" E. from the west end of Lamay Island, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 371 

er being nearly calm we were drawn into one of these ripples and 
continued in it several hours, during which time we tried for soun- 
dings with a hundred fathoms of line without success. Upon trial 
a current was found to set S. E. seven furlongs per hour ; this ex- 
periment, however, was made from the ship by mooring a buoy, 
and was probably incorrect, as the water was much agitated ; and 
had a vessel seen it, or even heard it in the night time (for it made a 
considerable noise), she would have taken it for breakers and put 
about. A peculiar smell was detected in the atmosphere while we 
remained unmanageable in this local disturbance of the water, 
which some ascribed to sea weed, and others to dead fish, but it was 
never ascertained whence it arose. Some seamen have an idea* 
though it is not very general, that this peculiar odour precedes a 
change of weather, and sometimes a storm, particularly in the Med- 
iterranean. On the present occasion nothing of the kind occurred 
immediately, though about twenty-six hours afterwards when cros- 
sing the channel between -Formosa and the main land, the temper- 
ature fell sixteen degrees from the average height of the preceeding 
day, and the wind blew strong from the northward. 

Before daylight on the 10th, while we were crossing the channel 
to the westward of Formosa, going at the rate often miles an hour, 
we found ourselves surrounded by Chinese fishing boats, and narrow- 
ly escaped running over several of them, as it was very dark, and 
they were so thick that in trying to escape one we endangered an- 
other, and were obliged to lie to until daylight. These boats are 
large vessels, and would endanger a small merchant ship were she to 
run foul of them. We were informed that they were upon their 
usual fishing ground, and vessels therefore in approaching the spot 
should be cautious how they proceed, as these boats carry only a 
large paper lanthern, which cannot be seen far off, and I believe 
they only show this when they perceive a strange vessel. They 
were fishing in pairs, one vessel being attached by cables to each 
end of an enormous net, which kept them both broadside to the sea ; 
they were constantly covered with the spray, and being light, were 
washed about in so violent a manner that it scarcely appeared pos- 
sible for people to stand upon their decks. Still the crews of sev- 
eral which we passed consisted principally of females, who did not 
appear to be in the least inconvenienced by their situation. 

In the forenoon we passed Piedra Branca, and in the evening 
entered the channel between the Great Lemma and Potoy. As no 
pilot offered, I stood on guided by the chart of Lieutenant Ross> 
which was extremely accurate, and at ten at night brought up in 
the Lantao passage, and at nine o'clock next morning anchored in 
the Typa. In entering this harbour we found less depth of water 
than is marked in the plan of Captain King ; and by the survey 



372 voyage to the pacific [Arpil, 

which we subsequently made, it appeared that at low water a ship 
cannot depend upon a greater depth than two fathoms, until after 
she passes the rocky head on her right. 

Immediately after we were anchored, I visited the late Sir Wil- 
liam Fraser, who was then chief officer of the company's factory at 
Canton, and we both waited upon the Portuguese governor. He 
gave us a very ungracious reception, for which we could account in 
no other way than by supposing he felt annoyed at our unceremo- 
nious entry of the Typa, without either pilot or permission ; for the 
Portuguese at Macao, I understand, claim the Typa as their own, 
under the emperor's original grant of Macao to them for their ser- 
vices to China. Some Portuguese officers who came on board dur- 
ing my absence, intimated that the ship would not be allowed to 
remain in the harbonr. We heard nothing more of the matter, 
however, for several days, when a mandarin waited upon Sir Will- 
iam Fraser to inquire into the business of the man of war anchored 
in the Typa. About the same time several war junks, two of which 
had mandarin's flags, came down the river, beating their gongs, and 
anchored not far from us. 

The mandarin received a satisfactory answer from Sir William 
Fraser ; but some days after, the Hoppo finding the ship did not 
go away, addressed the following letter to the Hong merchants : — 

'•' Wan, by imperial appointment, commissioner for foreign duties 
of the port of Canton, an officer of the imperial household, cav- 
alry officer, &ic. &c. &c. raised three steps, and recorded seven- 
teen times, 

" Hereby issues an order to the Hong merchants. 

"The Macao Wenguin have reported, that on the 18th of the 
13th moon, the pilot Chinnang-Kwang announced that on the 17th 
an English cruiser, Peitche,* arrived, and anchored at Tausae. 

" On the pilot's inquiring, the said captain affirmed that he came 
from his own country to cruise about other parts, but gales of wind 
forced him in here, where he would anchor awhile till the wind 
was fair, and then he would take his departure. I could only in 
obodience ascertain these circumstances, and also the following par- 
ticulars : 

"There are in the ship 120 seamen, 26 guns, 60 muskets, 60 
swords, 700 catties of powder, and 700 balls. 

" This information is hereby communicated to higher authority. 

" Coming before me, the Hoppo, 1 have inquired into the case, 
and since the said vessel is not a merchant ship nor convoy to mer- 
chantmen, it is inexpedient to allow pretexts to be made for her 
anchoring, and creating a disturbance. I, therefore, order her to 

* The Chinese call their vessels by the names of the persons who command them. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 373 

be driven out of the port, and on the receipt of this order, let the 
merchants, in obedience thereto, enjoin the said nations, foreigners, 
to force her away. They will not be allowed to make glossing pre- 
texts for her lingering about, and creating a disturbance which will 
implicate them in crime. Let the day of her departure be report- 
ed. Haste ! Haste ! a special order. 

" Taou Kwang, 

"7th year, 3d month, 24 day." 

The Hong Merchants transmitted this bombastic letter of the 
Hoppo to the British factory with the following letter : but I must 
observe that the pilot was incorrect in saying that he derived his 
information from me, or that such a pretext for putting into the 
Typa was made. 

" We respectfully inform you that on the 23d inst. we received 
an edict from the Hoppo concerning Peitche's cruiser anchoring 
at Tausae, and ordering her away. We send a copy of the docu- 
ment for your perusal, and beg your benevolent brethren of the 
committee to enforce the order on the said Peitche's cruiser to go 
away and return home. She is not allowed to linger about. 

" We further beg you to inform us of her departure, that we may 
with evidence before us report the same to government. 

" We write on purpose about this matter alone, and send our 
compliments, wishing you well in every respect. 

" To the chiefs : " We the merchants : 

Mr. Fraser, Wooshowchang, (Howqua's son,) 

Mr. Toone, and others." 

Mr. Plowden." 

The officers of the factory were aware of the ground upon which 
the Chinese founded their appeal, it being understood, I believe, 
that a vessel of war is not to enter the Chinese territory except for 
the purpose of protecting their own trading ships. At the same 
time they were sufficiently acquainted with the Chinese style of 
writing to know that this was only a common remonstrance, how- 
ever strong the language used might appear, and they amicably 
arrranged the business until near the time of our departure, when 
another letter arrived, to which they were able to give a satisfactory 
answer by our moving out of the Typa. 

As our object was to procure the stores we required, and to pro- 
ceed to sea as quickly as possible, our movements were not in any 
way influenced by this order of the Poppo ; and had it not been 
necessary to proceed to Canton to ascertain what was in the market 
there, we should have sailed before this dispatch reached its destin- 
ation. It appeared that we had arrived at an unfortunate period, as 



374 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [April. 

ihere were very few naval stores in the place, and the Chinese 
were either so dilatory, or so indifferent about delivering some that 
had been bargained for in Canton that we were obliged to sail 
without them. We, however, procured sufficient supplies to en- 
able us to prosecute the voyage, and on the 30th of April took our 
departure. 

During our stay at ' Macao we received the greatest attention 
from the officers of the Company's establishment, who politely 
gave us apartments in their houses, and in ever way forwarded our 
wishes ; and I am happy to join in the thanks expressed in my 
officers' journals for the hospitality we all experienced. 

Soon after our arrival in the Typa, a febrile tendency was exper- 
ienced throughout the ship, and before we sailed almost every offi- 
cer and seaman on board was affected with a cold and cough, which 
in some cases threatened aneumonia ; but the officers who resided 
in the town were free from complaint until they returned to the 
ship. The probable causes of this were the humid state of the air, 
the cold heavy dews at night, and the oppressively hot weather 
during the day, added to the currents of air which made their way 
between the islands into the Typa, where the atmosphere, penned 
in on all sides by hills, was otherwise excessively close. On this 
account I think the Typa very objectionable, and should recommend 
the anchorage off Cabreta Point in preference. 

By a plan of the Typa, which we contrived to make during our 
visit, it appears that the depth of water is diminishing in the har- 
bour, and that in some parts of the channel there is not more than 
ten feet and a half at low water spring tides ; the rise of the tide at 
this time being seven feet one inch. The channel has shifted since 
the surveys of Captains King and Heywood, and new land-marks 
for entering, which I have given in my Nautical Remarks, are be- 
come necessary. 

On leaving Macao we hoped that the S. W. monsoon would set 
in, and carry us expeditiously to the northward ; instead of this, 
however, we were driven down upon the island of Leuconia in the 
parallel of 17° 16' N. where we perceived the coast at a great 
distance. Here it fell calm, and the weather, which had been in- 
creasing in temperature since our departure from Macao, became 
oppressively hot, the thermometer sometimes standing at 89° in the 
shade, and the mean height for the day being 85°, 7 of Fahren- 
heit. 

About this time we saw several splendid meteors-, which left 
trains of sparks as they descended. On the 6th a parhelion was 
visible at 51° 50' on the south side of the sun, when about 2° of 
altitude, and as we passed Orange Island we felt a sudden shock, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 375 

accompanied by a momentary gust of wind which threatened the 
masts : the sky at this time was quite clear and cloudless. 

On the 7th we saw the south Bashee Islands, celebrated as one 
of the resorts of the Buccaneers, and the day following made the 
Island of Botel Tobago Xima* While off the Bashee Islands we 
noticed a great rippling in the Balingtang Channel, and during the 
night we experienced so strong a current to the north west that in- 
stead of passing the Cumbrian Reef ten miles to the eastward, as 
we expected, on the following morning we found, greatly to our 
surprise, that we had been set on the opposite side of it, and much 
closer than was consistent with security in a dark night. These 
currents render precaution very necessary ; that by which we were 
affected ran N. 56° W. twenty-six miles during the night, or about 
two miles and a half per hour. We continued to feel this effect 
until we were a full day's sail from Botel Tobago Xima, and we 
were obliged in consequence to beat through the channel between 
that island and Formosa.- In doing this we had an opportunity of ex- 
amining the shores of Botel Tobago Xima, and of constructing a 
tolerably good plan of its nothern and western sides, besides deter- 
mining its position more accurately than had been done when we 
passed it on the former occasion. 

The aspect of this part of the island is both agreeable and pic- 
turesque. The mountains are covered with wood and verdure to 
their summit, and are broken by valleys which open out upon 
plains sloping rather abruptly from the bases of the hills to the sea 
coast. 

Almost every part of this plain is cultivated in the Chinese man- 
ner, being walled up in steep places, like the sides of Dane's Island 
in the Tigris. Groves and tufts of palm trees break the stiffness 
which this mode of cultivation would otherwise wear, and by their 
graceful foliage greatly improve its appearance. In a sand bay on 
the north side of the island there is a large village consisting of low 
houses with pointed roofs. 

There are several rocky points on the north-west side,- and some 
detached rocks lie off the northern extremity, which are remarka- 
ble for their spire-like form. The coast is rocky in almost every 
part, and probably dangerous to land upon, as these needle rocks 
are seen in many parts of the island. With the exception, how- 
ever, of those off the north extreme, they are attached to the is- 
land by very low land, but the shore under water often assumes 
the character of that which is above, in case a vigilant look out for 
rocks would here be necessary in rowing along the coast. At three 
miles distance from the land we had no bottom with 120 fathoms 
of line. 

After beating two days off Tobago Xima without being able to 



376 voyace to the pacific [May, 

make much progress against the current, which on the average ran 
a mile and a quarter per hour, on the 10th a change of wind ena- 
bled us to steer our course. We took our departure from Sam- 
sanna, an island to the northward of Tobago Xima, situated by our 
observations, nearly in latitude 22° 42 N., and exactly 8' west of 
the eastern extreme of the Little Tobago Xima. 

I intended, on leaving Macao, to explore the sea to the eastward 
of Loo Choo, particularly that part of it where the Yslas Arzo- 
bispo, the Malabrigos, and the Bonin Islands, are laid down in vari- 
ous charts. It was, however, no easy matter to reach thus far, and 
what with light, variable winds, and contrary currents, our progress 
was extremely slow, so that on the 15th we found ourselves not far 
from the Great Loo Choo, with a contrary wind. 

About this time it was discovered that the water we had taken 
on board at Macao was extremely bad, owing to the neglect of the 
comprador in filling the casks, and as I had no object in reaching 
Kamschatka for nearly two months, I determined upon proceed- 
ing to Napakiang in Loo Choo. I was further induced to do this, 
on account of the longitude of the places we might meet between 
it and Petropaulski. We therefore bore away to the westward, 
and in the evening saw the island bearing W. by N. ten leagues 
distant 

The following morning we were close to the reefs by which the 
Island of Loo Choo is nearly surounded, and steered along them 
to the southward, remarking as we passed the excellent harbours 
which appear to be formed within them ; and planning a chart 
of them as correctly as our distance from the shore, and other cir- 
cumstances, would permit. The sea rolled furiously over the reefs, 
which presented a most formidable barrier to encounter in a dark 
night, but we were glad to find that this danger was lessened by 
soundings being found outside them, in a depth of water which 
would enable a vessel to anchor in case of necessity. This depth 
gradually increased to seventy-five fathoms, at four miles distance 
from the reefs. 

Daylight had scarcely dawned the following morning before 
several fishermen paddled towards the ship, and fastened their ca- 
noes alongside. They had taken several dolphins, which they ex- 
changed for a very small quantity of tobacco, tying the fish to a 
rope, and without the least mistrust contentedly waiting until the 
price of it was handed to them. Their canoes were capable of 
holding five or six persons each, but there were seldom more than 
two or three in any of them. They were hollowed out of large 
trees, and rather clumsily made ; but it was evident, from the neat 
manner in which the inside was fitted with bambo gratings, that the 



1827.] AND BEERINO'S STRAIT. 377 

constructors of them were capable of much better workmanship. 
They had no outriggers, and their sail was made of grass. 

After remaining alongside some time they ventured upon deck, 
and saluted us in the Japanese manner, by bowing their heads very 
low, and clasping their hands to their breasts. They appeared to 
be a very diminutive race, and were nearly all bow-legged, from the 
habitual confinement of their canoes. Many of them were naked, 
with the exception of a maro ; but those who were clothed wore 
coarse cotton gowns with large sleeves ; and almost every person 
had a pipe, tobacco-pouch, and match fastened to his girdle. As 
the Loo Chooans are reputed to be descended from the Japanese, 
we naturally sought in the countenances of these people features 
characteristic of that nation, but found that they bore a much nearer 
resemblance to those of the Malay tribe. Their manners, however, 
were very different from those of the Malays ; and they were mark- 
ed with a degree of courtesy and good breeding, which we certainly 
should not have expected to find in persons of their humble occu- 
pation, and inferior condition in life. 

Having obtained permission to look over the ship, they examined 
attentively those things which interested them, and when their 
curiosity was satisfied they made a low bow, and returned to their 
canoes, leaving us well pleased with their manners. About this 
time several dolphins swam round the ship, and the fishermen threw 
over their lines, and met with tolerable success. Our lines had for 
some time been towing overboard with various devices of flying- 
fish, pieces of cloth, &c. attached to them, and springing from the 
water with the rise of the ship, in imitation of the action of the 
flying-fish, but without any success, and we were happy to take a 
lesson from our new acquaintances. Their lines were similar to 
ours, but their snoeuds were made of wire, and their hooks, when 
properly baited, were quite concealed in the body of a flying-fish 
which had one side of the flesh cut away. Several lines thus pre- 
pared were allowed to run out to the length of about ten fathoms, 
and when the dolphins were near, speed was given to the canoe, 
that the bait might have the appearance of a fish endeavouring to 
escape pursuit. In this manner several were taken at no great dis- 
tance from us. If the fish happened to be large, the line was care- 
fully drawn in, and they were harpooned with an instrument which 
every canoe carried for the purpose. 

We stood towards Loo Choo, accompanied by several of these 
canoes, until within a few miles of the land, when fearing to be seen 
from the shore, they quitted us, first making signs for us to go round 
to the other side of the island. 

About sunset the wind left us close off the south extremity of the 
Great Loo Choo ; and all the next day it was so light that the boats 

48 



378 voyage to the pacific [May, 

were obliged to tow the ship toward the harbour. This slow pro- 
gress would have been far less tedious had we been able to see dis- 
tinctly the country we were passing, and the villages situated in the 
bays at the back of the reefs ; but this prospect was unfortunately 
destroyed by a dense haze which rendered every distant object in- 
distinct, and tantalized our expectations by the variety of fallacious 
appearances it created. Our course, until four o'clock in the after- 
noon, was along the western side of Loo Choo, between it and a 
reef lying about midway between this western shore and the Kirra- 
ma islands. About that time we arrived off Abbey Point, and were 
entering the harbour of Napakiang, guided by our charts, when we 
were obliged to drop the anchor to avoid striking upon a coral bank, 
with only seven feet water on its shallowest part. Upon examina- 
tion we found that this bank, which had hitherto escaped observa- 
tion, had a deep channel on both sides of it ; we therefore weighed, 
and steered through the southern passage. It afterwards became 
necessary to beat up to the anchorage, in doing which we discover- 
ed another rock, and had a still narrower escape.* We reached 
our destination a little before sunset, and then came to an anchor 
off the town of Napa, 

*The positions of these rocks are given in the plan of Napakiang, which we 
constructed during our stay here. 



1827. J and bekring's strait. 379 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Appearance of Loo Choo — Visits of the natives — Deputation — Permission given to 
land — Excursions into the Country — Discover Money in Circulation — Mandarin 
visits the Ship — Departure of a Junk with Tribute — Visit of the Mandarin return- 
ed — Further Intercourse — Transactions of the Ship — Departure — Observations 
upon the religion, manners, and Customs of the People ; upon their Laws, Money, 
Weapons, and Punishments : their manufactures and Trade — Remarks upon the 
Country, its Productions and Climate — Directions for entering the Port — Histori- 
cal Sketch of the Kingdom of Loo Choo. 

Loo Choo from the anchorage presents a very agreeable land- 
scape to the admirers of quiet scenery. The land rises with a grad- 
ual ascent from the sea-coast to something more than five hundred 
feet in height, and in almost every part exhibits a delightful picture 
of industry. The appearance of formality is just removed by a due 
proportion of hill and valley, and the monotonous aspect of continu- 
ed cultivation is broken by rugged ground, neatly executed cemete- 
ries, or by knots of trees which mingle the foliage of the temperate 
zone with the more graceful vegetation of the tropics. The most 
remarkable feature is a hill named Sumar, the summit of which com- 
mands a coup-d'ceil of all the country round it, including the shores 
of both sides of the island. Upon this hill there is a town appar- 
ently of greater importance than Napa, called Shui or Shoodi, sup- 
posed both by Captain Hall and ourselves to be the capital of Loo 
Choo. With our telescopes it appeared to be surrounded by a wall, 
and it had several flags (hattas) flying upon tall staffs. The hous- 
es were numerous, but the view was so obstructed by masses of fol- 
iage which grew about these delightful residences that we could 
form no estimate of their numbers. Upon a rise, a little above the 
site of the other houses of the town, there was a large building half 
obscured by evergreen trees, which some of us imagined might be 
the residence of the king, who had chosen so elevated a situation, in 
order to enjoy the luxury of breathing a high current of air in a 
country occasionally exposed to excessive heat. A rich carpet of 
verdure sloping to the westward connects this part of the landscape 



380 voyage to the pacific [May 

with the bustling town of Napa, or Napa-ching,* of which we could 
see little more than a number of red roofs turned up at the corners 
in Chinese style, or at most only a few feet down the chunammed 
walls which support them, in consequence of a high wall surround- 
ing the town. To the right of the town along stone causeway 
stretches out into the sea, with arches to allow the water a free ac- 
cess to the harbour at the back of it, and terminates in a large square 
building with loop-holes. To this causeway sixteen junks of the 
largest class were secured : some had prows formed in imitation of 
animals, and georgeously coloured ; others psesented their sides 
and sterns highly painted and gilt ; while, from among their clumsy 
cordage aloft, and from a number of staffs placed erect along the 
stern, were suspended variously shaped flags, some indicating, by 
their colour, or the armorial bearing upon them, the mandarin cap- 
tain of the junk ; some the tributary flag of the Celestial Empire, 
and others the ensign of Japan. Many of these were curiously ar- 
ranged and stamped in gilt characters on silken grounds. 

To the left of Napa is the public cemetry, where the horse-shoe 
sepulchres rise in galleries, and on a sunny day dazzle the eye with 
the brightness of their chunammed surfaces, and beyond them again, 
to the northward, is the humble village of Potsoong, with its jos- 
house and bridge. 

The bay in every part is circumscribed by a broad coral ledge, 
which to seaward is generally occupied by fishermen raising and de- 
pressing nets extended upon long bamboo poles, similar to those of 
the Chinese. Beyond these reefs are the coral islands of Tzee, the 
more distant islands of Kirrama, and far, in a northern direction, the 
cone of Ee-goo-sacoo, said to be covered with houses rising in a spi- 
ral direction up its sides. The whole, when viewed on a fine day, 
and when the harbour is enlivened by boats passing to and fro, with 
well-dressed people chanting their harmonious boat song, has a 
pleasing effect which it is difficult to describe. 

Before our sails were furled the ship was surrounded by boats of 
various descriptions, and the tops of the houses on shore, the walls 
and the forts at the entrance of the harbour, were crowded with 
spectators watching our operations. Several persons came on board, 
and with a respectful salutation begged permission to be allowed to 
look over the ship; but they were interrupted by the approach of a 
boat with an officer, apparently of rank, whom they endeavoured to 
avoid. His person underwent a severe scrutiny through our teles- 

* Napa is decidedly the name of the village, and the words ching and keang, 
which are occasionally subjoined, in all probability are intended to specify whether 
it is the town^or the river near it, that is intended ; ching being in Chinese lan- 
guage a town, and keang a river ; and though these substantives are differently 
expressed in Loo Choo, yet when thus combined, the Chinese expression may proba- 
bly be used. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 381 

cope long before he came on board, and we could distinctly see that 
he had not the hatchee-matchee, or low cylindrical cap worn by 
persons of rank in Loo Choo, in the same manner as the cap and 
buttons are by the mandarins of China, yet he was evidently a man 
of consequence, from the respect paid him by the natives in making 
room for his approach. When he came along side he was invited 
upon deck, but for some time he stood minutely examining the out- 
side of the ship, counting the number of port-holes, and apparently 
forming an estimate of her length and height. At last he ascended 
the side and made a low salutation on the quarter deck, bowing his 
head in a respectful manner, and clasping his hands to his breast, as 
before described. Finding we could not understand his language he 
waved his hand to seaward, in intimation that we should not be allow- 
ed to remain in the port. He then looked down upon the gun deck, 
and pursued his examination of the inside of the ship with the 
same rigour that he had bestowed upon the exterior, making notes 
of what he saw. When he was satisfied, he expressed his thanks 
for our civility and returned to the shore. 

Soon after his departure, several well-dressed persons, with boys 
holding parasols over them, were observed coming off to us : they 
were seated in Chinese style upon mats spread in the bottom of the 
boat, over neat ratan platforms, and were propelled by several per- 
sons working at a large oar as a scull, keeping time to a song, of 
which the chorus was ya ha mashaivdy, or words very similar. 

They were elegantly dressed in gowns made of grass cloth, of 
which the texture was fine and open, and being a little stiff, formed 
a most agreeable attire in a country which was was naturally warm. 
To prevent this robe being incommodious while walking, it was 
bound at the waist with a girdle, linen or silk, according to the rank 
of the wearer. They had sandals made of straw, and one of them, 
whose name was An-yah, had linen stockings. None of them had 
any covering to the head, but wore their hair turned back from all 
parts, and secured in a knot upon the crown, with two silver pins, 
Jcamesashe and oomesashe, the former of which had an ornamental 
head resembling a flower with six petals ; the other was very simi- 
lar to a small marrow-spoon. Each person had a square silken to- 
bacco-pouch embroidered with gold and silver, and a short pipe of 
which the bowl and mouth-piece were also silver, and one who was 
secretary to An-yah carried a massy silver case of writing materials. 

They saluted us very respectfully, first in the manner of their 
own country and then of ours, and An-yah, by means of a vocabu- 
lary which he brought in his pocket, made several inquiries, which 
occasioned the following dialogue. " What for come Doo Choo ?"* 

* This word is pronounced Doo-Choo by the natives, but as it is known in England 
as Loo Choo, I shall preserve that orthography. 



382 voyage to the pacific [May, 

" To get some water, refit the ship, and recover the sick." "How 
many mans ?" " A hundred." " Plenty mans ! you got hundred 
ten mans ?" " No, a hundred." " Plenty guns ?" " Yes." " How 
many ?" "Twenty-six." " Plenty mans, plenty guns ! What things 
ship got ?" " Nothing, ping-chuen." " No got nothing ?" " No, 
nothing." " Plenty mans, plenty guns, no got nothing !" and turn- 
ing to his secretary he entered into a conversation with him, in 
which it appeared almost evident that he did not wholly credit our 
statement. It was, however, taken down in writing by the secre- 
tary. 

In order more fully to explain myself I showed them some sen- 
tences written in Chinese, which informed them that the ship was 
an English man of war : that the king of England was a friend of 
the emperor of China ; and that ships of our nation had frequeut 
intercourse with the town of Canton. The secretary, who read 
these sentences aloud, immediately wrote in elegant Chinese char- 
acters! "What is your reason for coming to this place ! How ma- 
ny men are there on board your ship?" and was both sorry and 
surprised to find I could not understand what he had written. In- 
deed he appeared to doubt my sincerity, particularly after I had 
shown him the next question, which happened to be an answer to 
his question, but which naturally followed the first, stating that we 
were in want of water and fresh provision, and that the sick required 
to be landed to recover their health, and concluding by specifying 
our desire to be allowed to pay for every thing that was supplied to 
us. An-yah received this information with satisfaction, and replied, 
" I speakee mandarin ; Doo Chooman want no pay." 

These sentences were kindly furnished me by Dr. Morrison, at 
my own request, in case circumstances should render it necessary 
to put into Loo Choo, and they were written in Chinese charac- 
ters, which Dr. Morrison was well aware would be quite intelligi- 
ble to the literati of Loo Choo, who express themselves in the 
same character as the Chinese, though their language is totally dif- 
ferent. They contained many interesting inquiries, and afforded the 
means of asking questions without the chance of misinterpretation. 
To several of them the negative or affirmative was all that was re- 
quired, and these are expressions understood by most people. It 
happened, however, that An-yah had learned enough of the Eng- 
lish language to say something more than these monosyllables ; so 
that what with his proficiency, and the help of these sentences, be- 
sides a dictionary, vocabulary, and dialouges in both languages, 
which Dr. Morrison had also very generously given me, we had the 

t This, as well as several other papers written by the Loo Chooans, was after- 
wards interpreted by Mr. Hultmann of the Asiatic Society, to whom, and also to 
Sir William Ousely, I beg permission to be allowed to express my thanks. 



1827.] and bekring's strait. 383 

means of gaining a good deal of information ; more, probably, than 
we could have done through an indifferent interpreter. As, howev- 
er, opinions vary concerning the written character of China being 
in general use in Loo Choo, I shall hereafter offer some observa- 
tions on the subject. 

After our visiters had satisfied their curiosity concerning our ob- 
ject in putting into Loo Choo, they sat down to dinner, which was 
ready, and with much address and good humour showed us they 
had learned to chin-chin, or drink healths in the English manner. 

I was very anxious to find out who my guest with the vocabula- 
ry was, as it first occurred to me that it might be Madera, of whom 
Captain Hall so frequently speaks in his delightful publication on 
Loo Choo ; but then he did not seem to be so well acquainted with 
the English langnage as Madera appears to have been, and, be- 
sides, he must have been much younger. His objection to answer- 
ing our inquiries on this head, and disclaiming all knowledge of any 
vessel having ever been at Loo Choo before, put it out of my pow- 
er at first to inform myself on the point, and had not his own cu- 
riosity overcome his prudence, it would perhaps have long remained 
a secret. 

The manner in which the discovery was made is curious ; after 
the sackee * had gone round a few times, An-yah inquired if " ship 
got womans ?" and being answered in the negative, he replied, 
somewhat surprised, " other ships got womans handsome womans !" 
alluding to Mrs. Loy, with whom the Loo Chooans were so much 
captivated that, it is thought, she had an offer from a person of high 
authority in the island. I then taxed him with having a knowledge 
of other ships, and when he found he had betrayed himself, he 
laughed heartily, and acknowledged that he reccollected the visit 
of the Alceste and Lyra, which he correctly said was 144 moons 
ago, and that he was the linguist An-yah whom Captain Hall calls 
An-yah Toonshoonfa, but he disclaimed all right to this appendage 
to his name. Having got thus far, I inquired after almost all the 
characters which so much interested me in reading the publication 
alluded to above ; but they either prevaricated, or disclaimed all 
recollection of the persons alluded to, and I found it extremely diffi- 
cult to get a word in answer. 

At last one of them said Ookoma was at the other end of the is- 
land, and another immediately added that he had gone to Pekin. 
A third stated that Madera was very ill at the capital, while it was 
asserted by others that he was dead, or that he w T as banished to 
Patanjun.f They all maintained they had never any knowledge 

* The Loo Choo name for wine or spirits 
t An island situated near Ty-pingchan, upon which Captain Broughton was 
wrecked. 



384 voyage to the PACinc [May, 

of such persons as Shangfwee, and Shang Pungfwee, the names giv- 
en to the king and prince of Loo Choo in Captain Hall's publica- 
tion. From this conversation it was very evident that they knew 
perfectly well who Ookoma and Madera were, but did not intend 
to give us any correct information about them. 

I was a little vexed to find that neither An-yah nor Isaacha-San- 
doo, who was also of our party, and is mentioned by Captain Hall, 
made the slighest inquiry after any of the officers of the Alceste 
or Lyra, by whom they had been treated in the most friendly man- 
ner, and for whom it might have been inferred, from the tears that 
were shed by the Loo Chooans on the departure of those ships, 
that the greatest regard had been entertained. The only time 
they alluded to them was when Mrs. Loy recurred to their imag- 
ination. 

When they had drank enough sackee they rose to take their leave, 
and, emptying the contents of the fruit dishes into their pockets, 
retired in great good humour ; but An-yah, not quite satisfied about 
the number of men on board the ship, probably imagining, from the 
number he saw aloft, that there were many more, again asked the 
question, " How many mans !'■' and on being answered as before, 
replied " Not got hundred one ?" which he wrote down a second 
time ; and having satisfied himself on this knotty point shook us 
by the hand and said, " Well, I speakee mandarin, to-morrow come 
water ; Doo Cbooman no want pay : fife day you go away." " That," 
I returned, " will depend upon the health of the sick, who must be 
allowed to land and walk about." I then desired him to tell the 
mandarin, that to-morrow I should go on shore and wait on him in 
his own house. An-yah, alarmed lest the threat might be carried 
into execution, hastily exclaimed, " No, no, I speakee mandarin, 
mans go ashore, walk about, no go house — no go house." Thus 
by threatening to do more than was intended, we obtained a tacit 
consent to that which we wanted without much chance of giving 
offence. Unwilling to give him any further uneasiness, I permitted 
him to go, requesting he would deliver to the mandarin an invita- 
tion to visit the ship, which he promised to do ; and seating himself 
and his companions on the mat in the boat, he sculled on shore to 
the musical chorus of " ya-ha-me-shawdy." 

Our decks were by this time crowded with spectators, who had 
been coming off in boat loads. The place did not appear to afford 
many of these conveyances, and they had to go backwards and for- 
wards between the ship and the shore a great many times, always 
singing their boat songs as they sculled themselves along. Our 
visitors had paid us the compliment of putting on their best attire, 
all of which was made of the grasscloth in the manner before de- 
scribed ; the colours were various, but mostly blue. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 385 

The utmost good breeding was manifested by every one of them, 
not only in scrupulously making their bow when they entered and 
quitted the ship, but in not allowing their curiosity to carry them 
beyond what they thought perfectly correct. They all seemed 
determined to be pleased, and were apparently quite happy in bet- 
ing permitted to indulge their curiosity, which was very great, and 
bespoke them a people extremely desirous of information. It was 
amusing to observe which objects attracted the particular attention 
of each individual, which we thought always accorded with the trade 
or profession of the party ; for, as we had at different times all the 
population of Napa on board the ship, we must have had persons 
of all occupations. We observed two of these people, after hav- 
ing gratified their curiosity about the deck, seat themselves in their 
canoes, and commence drawing a picture of the ship — one selected 
a broadside view, and the other a quarter, each setting at defiance 
all rules of perspective. The artist on the quarter had of course 
the most difficult task, and drew the stern as a continuation of the 
broadside, by which it appeared like an enormous quarter gallery 
to the ship. That they might make an exact representation, they 
took their station at the distance of twenty feet from the side of the 
ship, and commenced their drawing upon a roll of paper about six 
feet in length, upon which they pourtrayed not only the outline of 
the ship, but the heads of all the bolts, the but ends of the planks, 
and before it was finished, no doubt, intended to trace even the 
grain of the wood. Whatever merit might have been attached to 
the drawing, the artists were entitled to commendation for their per- 
severance, which overcame every difficulty ; and they had some few 
to contend with. A little before sunset they rolled up their paper 
and paddled on shore. 

We were scarcely up the following morning before our ears were 
assailed by the choruses of the boatmen bringing off new visiters 
to the ship, who continued to pass between her and the shore the 
whole of the day, carrying a fresh set at every trip, so that the har- 
bour, if possible, presented a more lively scene than it did the day 
before : on shore the walls and housetops were occupied by groups 
who sat for hours looking towards the anchorage. Our visiters as 
before were well dressed and well bred people, and extremely ap- 
prehensive of giving offence or even of incommoding us. 

The mandarin, however, fearful we might experience some an- 
noyance from having so many people on board without any person 
to control them, sent off a trusty little man with a disproportionably 
long bamboo cane to keep order, and who was in consequence nam- 
ed Master-at-Arms by the seamen. This little man took care that 
the importance of his office should not escape notice, and occasion- 
ally exercised his baton of authority, in a manner which seemed 

49 



386 voyage to the PACinc [May, 

to me much too severe for the occasion ; and sometimes even drew 
forth severe though ineffectual animadversions from his peaceable 
countrymen : but as I thought it better that he should manage mat- 
ters in his own way, I did not allow him to be interfered with. 

Among the earliest of our visiters were An-yah, Shtafacoo, and 
Shayoon ; three intelligent, good-natured persons, who, I have no 
doubt, were deputed to watch our movements. They were the 
bearers of a present of a pig and some vegetables. As An-yah 
had promised, several boats commenced supplying the ship with 
water, bringing it off in large tubs.* In reply to my request that 
the officers and invalids might be allowed to walk about on shore, 
An-yah said he had spoken to the mandarin, who had sent off a 
Loo Choo physician to administer to the health of our invalids, and 
in fact who would see whether our statement concerning them was 
correct or not. A consequential little man, with a huge pair of 
Chinese spectacles, being introduced as the Esculapius in question, 
begged to be permitted to visit the sick and to feel their pulse. The 
surgeon says — " he gravely placed his finger upon the rabial artery 
first of one wrist and then of the other, and returned to the first 
again, making considerable pressure for upwards of a minute upon 
each. To one patient affected with a chronic liver complaint, and 
in whom the pulsations are very different in the two arms, in con- 
sequence of an irregular distribution of the arteries, he recommend- 
ed medicine : of another person affected with dyspepsia whose pulse 
was natnral, he said nothing ; no other part of the animal econo- 
my attracted his notice. He appeared to be acquainted with quick- 
silver and moxa, but not with the odour of cinnamon." 

After this careful examination he returned to the cabin and wrote 
in clumsy Chinese characters that one of the patients had an affec- 
tion of the stomach and required medicine ; and inquired of anoth- 
er if he were costive. This report, which we did not understand 
at the time, was satisfactory to An-yah, who immediately gave us 
permission to land at Potsoong and Abbey Point, but with an un- 
derstanding that we were not to go into the town. He then produc- 
ed a list of inquiries, which he had been ordered to make, such as 
the dimensions of the ship, the time we had been from England, 
Canton, &c, and lastly, what weather we had experienced, as he 
said Loo Choo had been visited by a violent tyfoong in April, which 
unroofed the houses and did much other mischief. 

The permission to land was immediately taken advantage of by 
several of the officers, who went to Potsoong, and were received in 

* This water proved to be bad, for though it had no very unpleasant taste, it was 
found, upon being analysed, to contain in solution a large proportion of magnesia 
and some salt ; a circumstance which should be borne in mind by vessels obtaining 
a supply at this place. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 387 

a very polite manner by a great concourse of spectators, who con- 
ducted them to the house in which Sir Murray Maxwell and his 
officers had been entertained ; and regaled them with (tsha) tea, 
and (amasa) sweet cakes. Some of the party, instead of entering 
the house, strolled inland to botanize, and to look at the country ; 
but they had not proceeded far before two or three persons ran to- 
wards them, and intimated that their company was expected at the 
house where the other officers were assembled drinking tea, and 
were waiting for them. This was the Loo Choo polite manner of 
preventing their proceeding inland, or of making themselves ac- 
quainted with the country ; and thus, whenever any parties landed 
afterwards, they were shown to this house, where there was always 
tea ready prepared, and kept boiling in a kettle, inclosed in a neatly 
japanned wooden case ; there were also trays of charcoal for light- 
ing pipes, and a box to receive the ashes when they were done 
with : the natives endeavoured, by every possible means, to engage 
their attention at this place, by putting a thousand inquiries, offer- 
ing pipes, and pressing them to smoke, and to drink tsha, which 
was always poured out in small cups, and drank without milk or 
sugar, which, as it was quite new, and not of the best kind, or much 
improved by being kept boiling, had a very insipid taste ; it, how- 
ever, served to quench the thirst on a hot day. 

On no account would these people receive any present, nor would 
they sell any of their property in public ; but if they thought we 
desired to possess any thing they could spare, they would offer it 
for our acceptance. I one day made a present to a person who 
had been very civil in showing me over his grounds, which he at 
first refused, and when I insisted on his taking it, and placed it in 
his pocket, he gave it me back again ; but finding I would not re- 
ceive it, he threw it after me ; and it was not until after I had re- 
turned it in the same manner, that he was prevailed upon to accept 
it. Upon doing this, he first exhibited it to the crowd around him, 
and then thanked me for it. On another occasion one of the offi- 
cers offered a man, named Komee. two Spanish dollars for his pouch, 
which he declined, and could not be prevailed upon to accept ; but 
with perfect good breeding he presented to him the object he de- 
sired, and insisted upon his keeping it. In private, however, they 
had less objection to presents, and even asked for several things : 
small bargains were also effected. 

From this time we visited the shore daily, and made many ex- 
cursions into the country, confining our rambles within reasonable 
limits, to avoid giving uneasiness to our guides, who were very 
much distressed whenever we strayed beyond what they considered 
strictly within the limits prescribed by their instructions. We met 
many peasants and other persons in these excursions, all of whom 



388 voyage to the pacific [May. 

seemed eager to show us attention, and with whom there was less 
reserve, and less disinclination to our proceeding inland, than was 
manifested by our guides from Napa, who were evidently acting 
under much constraint. 

Lieutenant Wainwright, who, since leaving San Francisco, had 
been an invalid, having suffered severely from a disease of the heart, 
was provided with a horse by the natives, and permitted to ride 
every day for his health. He was attended by a guide, and receiv- 
ed much kindness and attention, from the humane Loo Chooans, 
who, though they often gave us many reasons to suspect the purity 
of their intentions, were, by their acts, certainly entitled to our grat- 
titude. 

On the 19th we received a bullock weighing lOOlbs., five pigs, a 
bag of sweet potatoes, some firewood, and some more water. Sev- 
eral of the officers landed and walked into the country, attended 
by the natives, who endeavoured by every species ' of cunning, and 
even by falsehood, to prevent their going near the villages, or pen- 
etrating far inland. We had again a ship full of visiters, and the 
two artists were employed the greater part of the day in completing 
their drawing which they refused to part with. After the strangers 
were gone on shore, a thermometer that was kept upon deck for 
the purpose of registering the temperature was missed, and the nat- 
ural conclusion was, that it had attracted the attention of some of 
our visiters, who it must be remembered, were of all classes. 

It was a curious coincidence, but I believe perfectly accidental, 
that the day after the instrument was missed not a single person 
came off to the ship, except those employed in bringing water: 
when An-yah came on board the next morning I made our loss 
known to him ; he was much distressed at hearing of it, and said he 
would make every inquiry about it on shore, and added — "Plenty 
Doo Ohoo man teef — plenty mans teef," he also advised us at 
the same time to look well after our watches, handkerchiefs, and 
particularly any of the instruments that were taken on shore. These 
precautions I am almost certain were unnecessary, and I am inclin- 
ed to, believe that An-yah painted his countrymen in such odious 
colours to make us take proper precautions. Though the Loo 
Chooans are extremely curious, and highly prize such an instru- 
ment, yet the theft is not in character with the rest of their con- 
duct, and however appearances may condemn them I am inclined 
to believe them guiltless of taking the thermometer, which probably 
was left in the tub used for drawing up sea-water to try its tempera- 
ture, and was accidentally thrown overboard. And yet in so large 
a body of people there must naturally be some who are bad ; how- 
ever, we never heard any thing more of the thermometer* 

A little before noon I landed to observe the meridional altitude, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 389 

and met Shtafacoo and several other Loo Choo gentlemen, who, 
were attended by little boys holding parasols over them, and carry- 
ing small japanned cases containing smoked and dried meats, small 
cups of preserves, and boiled rice, sackee, a spirit resembling the 
samchew of China, and fresh water. They ordered mats to be 
spread for us, and we made a good luncheon of the many nice 
things in their boxes. We afterwards crossed over to Potsoong, 
where we were met by an elderly gentleman, who made a very low 
obesiance, and pressed us to come into the house in which the 
officers of Sir Murray Maxwell's squadron and of the Blossom had 
been entertained, and which appeared to be set apart entirely for 
our use. It was situated in a square area laid out in lawn and 
flower beds, and enclosed by a high wall ; the house was built of 
wood, and roofed with tiles in the Chinese style ; the floor was rai- 
sed about two feet from the ground, and the rooms, though small, 
were capable of being thrown into one by means of shifting panels. 
To the right of the house there was a large brass bell, which was 
struck with a wooden club, and had a very melodious tone ; at the 
further end of the garden was a jos house, a place of worship, which 
as it has been described by Captain Hall, I shall notice only by the 
mention of a screen that was let down before the three small ima- 
ges on the inside. It was made of canvas stretched upon a frame 
forming two panels, in each of which was a figure ; one represen- 
ting a mandarin with a yellow robe and hatchee matehee, seated 
upon a bow and quiver of arrows and a broad sword ; the other, a 
commoner of Loo Choo dressed in blue, and likewise seated upon 
a bow and arrows. The weapons immediately attracted my atten- 
tion, and I inquired of my attendant what they were, for the pur- 
pose of learning whether he was acquainted with the use of them ? 
and found that he was by putting his arms in the position of draw- 
ing the bow, and by pointing to the sword and striking his arm for- 
ward ; but he implied that that weapon belonged to the mandarins 
only. A great many pieces of paper were suspended on each side 
of the picture, some of them marked with Chinese characters, and 
were, no doubt, invocations to the deities for some temporary ben- 
efits, as all the sects are in the habit of writing inscriptions of this 
kind, and depositing them in the jos houses, or placing them upon 
stones, of which there are several in Loo Choo under the name of 
Karoo. Under a veranda which surrounded the temple there were 
several wooden forms strewed with flowers, and upon the middle 
one a drum was suspended by thongs in a handsome jappaned 
stand. 

A building in front of this jos house, mentioned by Captain Hall 
has been rebuilt, but was not quite finished at the time of our vis- 
it : though so near to the temple, the panels were scrawled over 



390 voyage to the pacific [May, 

with groups of figures some of which were very inappropriate to 
such a situation. 

After we had partaken of tea in the dwelling-house we determin- 
ed upon a walk in the interior, much to the discomfiture of the old 
gentleman, who used every means he could think of to induce us to 
desist, and produced pipes, sweet cakes, tsha, and massa chorassa, 
preserves with which they tempted us whenever they feared our 
walk would be directed inland. Finding he could not detain us, he 
determined to be our companion, and endeavoured to confine us to 
the beach by praising the freshness of the breeze, saying how hot 
we should find it inland, and what bad paths there were in that di- 
rection, every word of which proved to be false, as we found the 
roads very good, and by gaining elevated situations we enjoyed more 
of the breeze. 

We passed some tombs excavated in the cliffs, and in one that 
was broken down we discovered a corpse lying upon its back, half 
decayed and covered over with a mat ; a jar of tea and some cups 
were placed by it, that the spirit might drink ; but there was noth- 
ing to eat, and our guide informed us that it was customary to place 
tea only by the side of the bodies, and that food was never left there. 
He turned us away from this shocking spectacle as much disgusted 
as ourselves, and seemed sorry that we had hit upon it. This dis- 
covery seems to strengthen some information which I afterwards re- 
ceived concerning the manner in which the dead were disposed of, 
namely, that the flesh is allowed to decay before the bones are plac- 
ed in jars in the cemetery. 

From this place we ascended a hill covered with tombs, which 
were excavated in the rock in a manner very similar to those near 
Canton ; they had almost all of them niches, wherein bowls of tea, 
lamps, and cups were placed, and appeared to be kept in good or- 
der, as they had a cleanly and decent appearance. We wandered 
among these some time, without finding any open, but at last we 
came to one of an inferior kind, in which the door was loosely plac- 
ed before the entrance ; it consisted of a large slab of red pottery, 
pierced with a number of holes about an inch in diameter. Having 
removed this, we saw about twenty jars of fine red pottery covered 
with lids shaped like mandarins' caps; the size of the jars was about 
twenty inches deep by eight in thebrodest part, which was one third of 
the way from the mouth ; they were also perforated in several places 
with holes an inch in diameter. We did not remove any of the lids, 
as it seemed to give offence, but were told that the jars contained the 
bones of the dead after the flesh had been stripped off or had de- 
cayed, on putting the question whether they burned the bones or the 
flesh off them, it was answered by surprise, and an inquiry whether 
we did so in England ? Therefore, unless the custom has altered, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 391 

the account of Supao Koang, a learned Chinese, who visited Loo 
Choo in 1719, is incorrect. 

After visiting the grave of one of the crew of the Alceste who 
was buried in this island, we were satisfied with this tour of the 
tombs, and turned off inland, very much to the discomfiture of our 
guide, and in spite of a great many remonstrances. He was a si- 
lent companion until we came to a path that went back to the beach, 
and there, politely stepping forward, said it was the one that would 
take us where we wished to go, and, touching our elbow, he would 
have turned us into it had he not thought it rude ; but we pursued 
our original path, followed by a crowd of persons, who seemed to 
enjoy the discomfiture of our companion, and laughed heartily as we 
came to every track that crossed ours, each of which our officious and 
polite conductor would have persuaded us to take, as being far more 
agreeable than the other, and as leading to our destination. The 
mirth of the crowd pretty well satisfied us there was no great danger in 
advancing, and we went on further than we should otherwise have 
done ; but in a little time they began to drop off, and we were at last left 
alone with the guide, who really became alarmed. We had reach- 
ed the foot of the hill on which the capital is situated, and were as- 
cending to have a near view of the houses, when he threw himself 
on his knees in evident alarm, bowed his head to the dust, embrac- 
ing our knees implored us to desist, assuring us that the mandrin 
would take his head off if we did not. Some of the officers who 
went in another direction were told by their guide that he would get 
bambooed if they did not turn back, which is more probable than 
that the heavy penalty apprehended by our companion should be 
attached to so light a crime. 

To quiet the irritation of the poor old man, who trembled vio- 
lently, we ascended a hill some distance to the left, which com- 
manded an extensive view of the country, and from whence we could 
survey the capital with our telescopes. The country was highly 
cultivated, and the grounds irrigated with Chinese ingenuity and per- 
severance by small streams of water passing through them, keeping 
such as were planted with rice thoroughly wet. We noticed in our 
walk sweet jootatoes, millet, wheat, Indian corn, potatoes, cabbages, 
barley, sugar-cane, tea shrubs, rice, taro, tobacco, capsicums, cu- 
cumbers, cocoa nuts, carrots, lettuces, onions, plantains, pomgran- 
ates, and oranges ; but amidst this display of agricultural industry 
there were several eminences topped with pine trees, on which the 
hand of the farmer might have been advantageously employed, but 
which were allowed to lie waste, and to be overrun with a rank 
grass. Such places, however, being usually the respositories of the 
dead, it may have been thought indecorous by the considerate Loo 
Chooans to disturb the ground near it with a hoe. These eminences, 



392 voyage to the pacific [May, 

like the basis of the island, being formed of a very porous calca- 
reous rock, are peculiarly adapted to the excavation of tombs, and 
the natives have taken advautage of them to dispose of their dead 
in them. 

The capital, for such I am disposed to call the town on the hill, 
notwithstanding the denial of several of the natives, was surround- 
ed by a white wall, within which there were a great many houses, 
and two strong buildings like forts ; with, as already mentioned, sev- 
eral small masts with gaffs, bearing flags of different colours. This 
space was thickly interspersed with trees, whence we conjectured 
the houses were furnished with gardens. There seemed to be very 
few people moving about the island, even between the upper and 
lower towns, with which it would be supposed there must necessa- 
rily be much intercourse. We rested awhile on the eminence that 
afforded this agreeable view of a country but very little known, 
and were joined by several persons whom fear or indolence had pre- 
vented keeping pace with us. Our guide now lighted his pipe and 
forgot his apprehension in the consoling fumes of tobacco, while 
some of the party amused themselves with viewing the capital 
through a telescope, each preventing the other having a quiet view 
by their anxiety to obtain a peep. Our clothes in the meantime 
were undergoing an examination from the remainder of the party, 
who, after looking closely into the texture of the material, ex- 
claimed — choorassa, choorassa ! (beautiful.) 

While we sat here a Japanese junk bore down from the north- 
ward, and according to the information of those around us, which 
afterwards proved to be correct, she came from an island called 
Ooshimar, to the northward of Loo Choo, and was laden with rice, 
hemp, and other articles. Her sails and rigging resembled the 
drawing of the Japanese junks in La Perouse's voyage. She pass- 
ed close to the Blossom at anchor, and from the report of the 
officers her crew had their heads shaved in the fashion of the 
Japanese. Her arrival excited general interest brought all the 
inhabitants to the housetops, and a number of canoes crowded 
round her before she reached the inner harbour, where she was 
towed and secured alongside several other junks bearing the same 

fla §- 

On our return we passed through a village consisting of a num- 
ber of square inclosures of low stone walls, separated by lanes 
planted on both sides, and so overgrown with bamboo and ratans 
that we could neither see the houses nor the sky ; several handsome 
creepers entwined themeselves round the stems of these canes, and 
a variety of flowers, some of which were new to us, exhaled a de- 
licious fragrance from the gardens which bordered these delightfnl 
avenues. A more comfortable residence in a hot climate could not 



1827.] AND BEERINo's STRAIT. 39^ 

well be imagined, but I am sorry to say that the fascination was 
greatly lessened by the very filthy state of the dwellings and of 
the people who occupied them. In one of these huts there was 
a spinning-wheel and a hand loom, with some grass-cloth of the 
country in a forward state of preparation for use. 

Several little children accompanied us through these delightfully 
cool lanes, running before us catching butterflies, or picking flow- 
ers, which they presented with a low Chinese salam, and then ran 
away laughing at the idea of our valuing such things. We after- 
wards crossed two high roads, on which there were several horses 
and jack-asses bearing panniers ; but we saw no carriages, nor the 
marks of any wheels, nor do I believe there are any in Loo Choo. 
The horses, like the natives, were very diminutive, and showed very 
little blood. Several peasants, both male and female, were work- 
ing in the plantations as we passed through them, neither of whom 
endeavoured to avoid us, and we had an opportunity of beholding, 
for the first time,se vera! Loo Choo women. They were of the labour- 
ing class, and of course not the most attractive specimens of their sex; 
but they were equally good-looking with the men, and a few of them 
were pretty, notwithstanding the assertion of An-yah, that " Loo 
Choo womans ugly womans." There was nothing remarkable about 
them to need particular description ; they were clothed much in 
the same manner as the men, and generally in the same colours ; 
their hair, however, was differently dressed, being loosely fastened 
at the side of the head by a pin resembling a salt-spoon with a 
very long handle. Their feet were of the natural size, and with- 
out shoes or sandals. We noticed some were tattooed on the 
back of the hand, which we were told was done to distinguish all 
those who were married ; An-yah said the custom prevailed equally 
in high life. 

Upon the high road we met a man with a bundle of firewood, on 
his way to town ; and were much pleased at the confirmation of a 
fact, which we had no doubt existed, though the natives took every 
precaution to conceal it. None of our visiters to the ship had as 
yet shown us any money, and An-yah, if I understood him correct- 
ly, said there was none in Loo Choo ; our meeting with this peas- 
ant, however, disclosed the truth, as he had a string of cash* (small 
Chinese money) suspended to his girdle, in the manner adopted by 
the Chinese. I examined the string with much interest, and offer- 
ed to purchase it with Spanish coin, but my guide would not per- 
mit the woodman to part with it, and tucking it into his belt that it 
might not be seen again, he said something to him in an angry tone, 

* These coins being- of small value, they are strung- together in hundreds, and 
have a knot at each end, so that it is not necessary to count them. 

50 



394 voyage to the pacific [May, 

and the poor fellow walked on with his load to the town. We af- 
terwards got some of this money, which was exactly the same as 
that which is current at Canton, and found that it was also in cir- 
culation in Loo Choo. Though they afterwards admitted this fact, 
they denied having any silver or gold coin in the country. 

Our subsequent excursions were nearly a repetition of what has 
been described, and were made nearly to the same places, with the 
exception of two or three, which I shall describe hereafter. In all 
these the same artifice was practised to induce us to confine our- 
selves to the beach, and particularly to prevent a near approach to 
the villages. Tobacco, tsha, and chorassa masa were the great 
temptations held out to us ; but neither the tea, nor the massa, which, 
by the by, was seldom produced, had sufficient charms to dissuade 
some of our young gentleman from gratifying their curiosity, though 
it was at the expense of the convenience of the natives, whose 
dresses were very ill adapted to speed ; and thus, by outrunning 
them, they saw many places which they would not otherwise have 
been permitted to enter, and got much nearer, to the town than I 
felt it would be right for me to do in consequence of my promise 
to An-yah. I shall, therefore, give such extracts from their jour- 
nals as are interesting, but in a few pages in advance, that I may 
not disturb the order of the narrative. 

On the 21st, An-yah came off to say, that the mandarin had ac- 
cepted my invitation to visit the ship, and would come on board that 
day : we consequently made preparation to receive him. As it ap- 
peared to me that Napa-keang possessed no boat, sufficiently good 
for so great an occasion, I offered to send one of ours to the town 
for his accommodation, which, in addition to obliging the mandarin, 
would afford an opportunity of seeing the place ; but An-yah would 
not permit it, and fearful that we might really pursue this piece of 
politeness further, got out of the ship as fast as he could, saying the 
mandarin was at Potsoong, and not in the town. About two o'clock 
he pushed off from that place with his party in two clumsy punts, 
sculled by several men singing a chorus, which differed, both in 
words and air, from that used by the boatmen in general. The 
mandarin was seated in the largest of these boats, under a wide 
Chinese umbrella, with two or three mandarins of inferior rank by 
him ; the other boat contained An-yah, Shtafacoo, Sandoo, and oth- 
ers, with whom we were well acquainted, and who rowed on before 
the mandarin, and announced his approach by presenting a crimson 
scroll of paper, exactly a yard in length, on which was elegantly 
written in Chinese characters, " Ching-oong-choo, the magistrate 
of Napa, in the Loo Choo country, bows his head to the ground, 
and pays a visit." By this time the other boat with the great man 
was alongside the ship, and four domestics with scarlet hatchee- 



1827.] AND BEERINCi's STRAIT. 395 

raatchees ascended the side, one of them bearing a large square 
hatchee-matchee box, in which there was an old comb. They pul- 
led up the side ropes, and carefully inspected them, to see whether 
they were strong enough to hold their master, and let them down 
again for the mandarin, who, very little accustomed to such feats, 
ascended the side with difficulty. 

He was received with a guard under arms, and a mandarin's sa- 
lute was fired as he put his foot upon the deck, with which he was 
much gratified, and he shook every officer by the hand with unaf- 
fected pleasure. The yards had been manned as he was coming 
off, and when the pipe was given for the seamen to come down, 
the evolution produced a little surprise, and must have impressed 
the Loo Chooans with the decided advantage of our dress over 
theirs, where activity is required. Ojee, one of the party, who 
also styled himself Jeema, and is mentioned by Captain Hall, fol- 
lowed, and then the rest of the mandarins in yellow hatchee-mat- 
chees and gowns. 

To persons who had visited a fine English frigate, disciplined by 
one of the ablest officers in the British Navy, the Blossom could 
have presented nothing extraordinary ; and as the greater part of 
our visiters were familiar with the Alceste, they were very little 
interested in what they saw ; but Ching-oong-choo had not been 
long from Pekin, and never, probably, having put his foot on the 
deck of a ship before, a Chinese junk excepted, examined every 
thing very attentively, and made many inquiries about the guns, 
powder, and shot. 

None of the natives offered to seat themselves in the cabin in the 
presence of the mandarin until dinner was brought in, but they 
then dispensed with formalities, and those who were familiar with 
European customs chinchinned each other with wine, and reversed 
their glasses each time, to the great amusement of their superior. 
During dinner the fate of Madera was inquired into, but we got no 
.satisfactory answer, and a mystery seemed to hang over his fate, 
which made us suspect he had in some way or other been disgraced. 
Jeema took the opportunity of showing he recollected his visit to 
the Alceste and Lyra, but he did not make any inquiry after his 
friends in either vessel. 

As we had lately been at Canton, we were provided with many 
things which were happily to the taste of our guests,, who would 
otherwise have fared badly, as they did not appear to relish our 
joints of meat ; nor did some bottled porter accord better with their 
taste, for after occasioning many wry faces, it was put aside as being 
bitter : a flavour which I have observed is seldom relished for the 
first time. Not so some noyeau, which was well adapted to the 
sweet palate of the Loo Chooans ; nor some effervescing draughts, 



396 voyage to the pacific [May, 

which were quite new to them, and created considerable surprise. 
They, however, seemed to enjoy themselves a great deal ; were jo- 
vial without being noisy, and with the exception of a dissagreeable 
practice of eructation, and even worse, they were polite people ; 
though I cannot say I approved of their refinement upon our pocket 
handkerchief. An-yah often intimated to me that he thought it 
was a disagreeable practice to use a handkerchief and carry it about 
all day, and thought it would be better for us to adopt their custom 
of having a number of square pieces of paper in our pockets for 
this purpose, and one of which could be thrown away when it had 
been used. I did not at first think he was in earnest, and when I 
observed my guests pocket these pieces of paper, 1 sent for some 
handkerchiefs, but they declined using them, saying paper was much 
better. 

While we were at dinner a large junk which we had observed 
taking in a cargo the clay before, was towed out of the harbour by 
an immense number of boats, making the shores echo with her 
deep-toned gong. She grounded off the entrance of the harbour, 
but was soon got off and placed outside the reefs. A more unwiel- 
dy ark scarcely ever put to sea, and when she rolled, her masts 
bent to that degree that the people on her deck seemed to be in 
imminent danger of their lives. She was decorated with flags of 
all sorts and sizes ; at the fore there was hoisted the white flag of 
the emperor; at the main, the Loo Choo colours, a triangular flag, 
red and yelow, with a white ball in it, denoting, I believe, a tribu- 
tary state : there were besides several others, and a great many 
mandarins'flags upon staffs along the stern. Ching-oong choo said 
she was the junk with tribute which was sent every second year 
from Loo Choo to Fochien. Her cargo, before it was stowed, was 
placed upon the wharf in square piles, with small flags upon sticks 
stuck here and there upon bales of goods, which were apparently 
done up in straw matting : for it was only with our telescopes that 
we were allowed to see this. 

After dinner was over, the mandarin went on shore, and begged 
to have the pleasure of our company to dinner at Potsoong the next 
day ; but the rest of the company obtained permission to stay and 
enjoy a little more sackee, after which they pocketed the remains 
of the dessert as usual, and as a token of their friendship, they each 
threw down their pipe and tobacco-pouch, and begged my accep- 
tance of them ; but as I knew these articles were valuable in Loo 
Choo, and was conscious that with some of them it was only a mat- 
ter of form, I declined accepting them. 

The next day it rained heavily, but An-yah came off to keep us 
to our engagement, saying the mandarin was at Potsoong in readi- 
ness to receive us ; we accordingly went, and were met at the Ian- 



1827.] and beering's strait. 397 

ding place by Jeema and a great crowd of Loo Chooans, with um- 
brellas, who accompanied us to the house, where we were received 
by the mandarin in a most cordial and friendly manner. For con- 
venience both apartments were thrown into one, by the removal of 
shifting panels, and the servants were regaled upon the floor in the 
inner room, while we were seated at a table in the outer apartment. 
Our table, which had been made in Japan, was nicely lacquered, 
and had Chinese characters gilt upon its edges and down the sides 
of the legs, recording the date and place where it was made, as 
well as the name of the workman, &jc. It was covered with dishes 
containing a variety of eatables, principally sweetmeats, and two 
sorts of spirits, sackee and moo roo fa coo. The former resembles 
the samscheu of China, and the other is a dark coloured cordial 
possessing a bitter-sweet taste. We were seated on one side of the 
table, myself in an old fashioned chair, and the other officers upon 
camp stools with japanned backs, and the host, Jeema, and the oth- 
er mandarins, on the . other side ; and each person was provided 
with a small enamelled cup and a saucer with a pair of chopsticks 
laid across it: the crowd all the while surrounding the house, and 
watching through its open sides every motion we made. Pipes and 
moo roo fa coo were first offered to us, and then each dish in suc- 
cession : of which we partook, according to our different tastes, 
without being aware of the Chinese custom of giving the sweets 
first and reserving the substantial part of the dinner for the last. 

Among the dishes, besides some sweet cakes made very light, 
were different kinds of pastry, one of a circular form, called hanna- 
buree, another tied in a knot, hard and dissagreeable, called matza 
Ji'ai, and a third called Icooming, which enclosed some kind offish, 
There was also amamalade, called tsheeptang, a dish of hard boiled 
eggs without the shells, painted red, and a pickle which was used 
instead of salt, called dzeeseekedakoonee ; besides a small dish of 
sliced cold liver called watshaingo, which in this course was the 
only meat upon the table. We ate more plentifully of these sweet 
things than we liked, in consequence of our ignorance of what was 
to follow, and partly from our not being aware that their politeness 
prevented them from sending away any dish as long as we could be 
prevailed upon to partake of it — a feeling which induced them con- 
tinually to press us to eat, and offer us part of every dish on the 
end of their chopsticks. The next course induced us to regret that 
we had not made the taste more a matter of form, for it consisted 
of several good dishes, such as roast pork, hashed fowls, and ver- 
micelli pudding, he. After these were removed they brought ba- 
sins of rice, but seeing we would eat no more, they ordered the 
whole to be taken away. 

During the whole time we were closely plied with sackee in 



39.8 voyage to the pacific [May, 

small opaque wine glasses, which held about a thimblefull, and 
were compelled to follow the example of our host and turn our 
glasses down : but as this spirit was of a very ardent nature, I beg- 
ged to be allowed to substitute port and madeira, which was readi- 
ily granted, and we became more on a footing with our hosts, who 
seemed to think that hospitality consisted in making every person 
take more than they liked, and argued that, as they had been in- 
toxicated on board, we ought to become so on shore. 

After dinner was removed, Jeema favoured us with two songs, 
which were very passable, and much 10 the taste of the Loo Choo- 
ans, who seemed to enjoy them very much. Nothing could exceed 
the politeness and hospitality of the mandarin throughout, who beg- 
ged that dinner might be sent off to one of the officers, whose 
health would not permit him to risk a wetting, and that all the boats 
crews might be allowed to come to the house and partake of the 
feast. Though there was a little ceremony in receiving and seat- 
ing us, yet that almost immediately wore off and Ching oong choo 
to make every person at his ease took off his hatcee-matchee, and 
with the rest of the mandarins sat without it. By this piece of po- 
liteness we discovered that his hair was secured on the top of the 
head by a gold hair pin, called kamesache, the first and the only one 
we saw made of that precious metal. 

We afterwards took a short walk in the garden, when I was sur- 
prised to find An-yah and Shtafacoo in the dress and hatchee-match- 
ee of mandarins of the second class : whether this was intended as 
a trick, or, following Madera's example, they preferred making their 
first aquaintance in disguise, is not very clear ; but as they both 
possesed a great deal of influence, and were much respected by the 
lower orders of the inhabitants, it was probably their proper dress. 

As soon as Ching-oon-choo permitted us, we took our leave, and 
were accompanied to the boat by a great crowd of persons, who 
opened a passage as we proceeded, and were officially anxious to 
be useful in some way or other ; and we then parted with Jeema 
and the rest amidst the greetings and salutations of hundreds of 
voices. 

On the 21st, one of the officers made an excursion to the south- 
ward of Abbey Point, and was attended as usual by a concourse of 
of boys and young men, who were extremely polite and respectful. 
They used every artifice and persuasion to deter him from proceed- 
ing, said they were tired, tempted him with tsha, and declared that 
they were hungry, but he ingeniously silenced the latter complaint 
by offering his guide a piece of bread which he had in his basket. 
It was thankfully accepted, but with a smile at the artifice having 
failed. At a village called Aseemee he surprised two females stand- 
ing at a well filling their pitchers ; they scrutinized him for some 
time, and then ran off to their homes. 



1827,] and beering's strait. 399 

The village contained about fifty houses ; and was almost hid 
from view by a screen of trees, among which were recognised the 
acacia, the porou of the South Seas, and the hibiscus rosa sinensis, 
but the greater part of the others appeared to be new ; they formed 
a lively green wood, and gave the village an agreeable aspect. In 
one of the cottages a boy of about six years of age was seated at a 
machine made of bamboo resembling a small Scotch muckle wheel, 
spinning some very fine cotton into a small thread. Though so 
young, he appeared to be quite an adept at his business, and was 
not the least embarrassed at the approach of the strangers. A quan- 
tity of thread ready spun lay in the house ; there was a loom close 
by, and some newly manufactured cloth, which appeared to have 
been recently dyed, was extended to dry outside the house. Near 
this cottage there were broken parts of a mill, which indicated the 
use of those machines, and circular marks on the earth, showing that 
this one had been worked by cattle. About a mile and a half to 
the southward of Abbejr Point, near a steep wooded eminence, 
which we christened Wood Point, there was another village named 
Oofoomee, through which Mr. Collie passed, preceded by his guide, 
who warned the female part of the inhabitants of his approach in 
order that they might get out of his way. His guide was delighted 
when he directed his steps toward the ship, as he was very tired, 
and even had a horse brought to him before he got to the beach.. 
This animal was eleven hands and a half in height, and would 
hardly have kept a moderately tall person's feet off the ground ; 
but his guide, though there was not much necessity for bracing his 
feet up very high, obviated the possibility of this inconvenience by 
riding with his knees up to his breast. The stirrups were massy, 
and made of iron curiously inlaid with brass, and shaped something 
like a clumsy Chinese shoe. At Abbey Point he visited some sep- 
ulchres hewn out of the rock or formed of natural caverns ; one of 
these happened to be partly open, and he discovered four large red 
earthen jars, one of which was fortunately broken, and exhibited 
its contents, consisting of bones of the human skeleton. 
_ In another excursion made by this gentleman to the north-east 
of Potsoong, he visited a temple of Budh, situated in a romantic 
copse of trees. The approach to it was along a path paved with 
coral slabs, partly overgrown with grass, and under an archway in 
the formation of which art had materially assisted the hand of na- 
ture. After resting a short time in this romantic situation he de- 
scended the paved way, passed some tall trees, among which was a 
species of erethrina of large growth, and arrived at the house of 
a priest, who invited him to smoke and partake of tea and rice. 
Three young boys were in the house, who, as well as the priest, 



400 voyage to the PACIFIC [May, 

had their heads shaved according to the custom of the priesthood 
in China. 

By the 25th May, we had completed the survey of the port, re- 
plenished our water, received a little fresh stock, and obtained some 
interesting astronomical and magnetical observations ; the day of 
departure was consequently near at hand. This event, after which 
many anxious inquiries were made by the natives, was, I believe, 
generally contemplated with pleasure on both sides ; not that we 
felt careless about parting with our friends, but we could not enjoy 
their society without so many restrictions, and we were daily ex- 
posed to the temptation of a beautiful country without the liberty 
of exploring it, that our situation very soon became extremely irk- 
some. The day of our departure, therefore, we hailed with pleas- 
ure, not only by ourselves, but by those to whom the troublesome 
and fatiguing duty had been assigned of attending upon our mo- 
tions : and they must moreover have looked with suspicion on the 
operations of the survey that were daily going forward, even had 
they not suspected our motives for putting into their port. 

I was very anxious before this day arrived to possess a set of the 
pins that are worn by the natives in their hair. From their con- 
duct it appeared that these ornaments had some other value at- 
tached to them than that of their intrinsic worth, or there would 
not have been so much difficulty in procuring them. Seeing they 
set so much value upon them that none of the natives could be 
induced to part with them, I begged An-yah would acquaint the 
mandarin with my desire, and, if possible, that he would procure 
me a set. An-yah replied that he would certainly deliver my mes- 
sage to the mandarin, and the next morning brought a set of the most 
inferior kind, made of brass. As the mandarin had received some 
liberal presents from me, I observed to An-yah that this conduct 
was ungenerous, and that I expected a set made of silver ; his opin- 
ion he said very much coincided with mine, and added that he would 
endeavour to have them changed, but the following morning he 
met me on shore, and said, " Mandarin very bad man, no give you 
silver kamesache :" but An-yah, determined that my request should 
be complied with, had by some means succeeded in procuring a set 
for me, which he presented in his own name. I rewarded his gen- 
erous behaviour by making him a present of some cut glass decan- 
ters and wine glasses, which are more esteemed in Loo Choo even 
than a telescope. 

On the 27th we made preparations for weighing, by hoisting our 
sails, and An-yah, Shtafacoo, and Shayoon, who had been our con- 
stant attendants, came off to take leave. These good people had 
been put to much trouble and anxiety on our account, and had so 
ingratiated themselves with us, that, as the moment approached, I 



1827.] and beering's strait, 401 

really believe the desire for our departure was proportionally less- 
ened ; and when the day arrived, they testified their regret in a 
warm but manly manner, shook us heartily by the hand, and each 
gave some little token of regard, which they begged us to keep in 
remembrance of them. As we moved from the anchorage, the in- 
habitants assembled on the house-tops, as before, upon the tombs, 
in the forts, and upon every place that would afford them a view of 
our operations, some waving umbrellas and others fans. 

Having brought to a conclusion the sketch of our visit to Loo 
Choo, I intend in the few pages that follow to embody what other 
information was collected from time to time, and to offer a kw re- 
marks on the state of the country as we found it, as compared with 
that which has been given by Captain Hall and the late Mr. M'Leod, 
surgeon of the Alceste. In the foregoing narrative I have avoided 
entering minutely into a description of the manners and persons 
of the inhabitants ; and I have omitted several incidents and an- 
ecdotes of the people, &s being similar to those which have al- 
ready been given in the delightful publications above mentioned. 

Loo Choo has always been said to be very populous, particular- 
ly the southern districts, and we saw nothing in that part of the 
island which could induce us to doubt the assertion. On the con- 
trary, the number of villages scattered over the country, and the 
crowds of persons whom we met whenever we landed, amply tes- 
tified the justness of the observation. We were, certainly, in the 
vicinity of the capital, and at the principal seaport town of the is- 
land ; but, in forming our estimate of the population, it must be 
borne in mind that we were very likely to underrate its amount, in 
consequence of the greater number of persons who crowd into 
Chinese towns than reside in villages of the same size in countries 
from which we have taken our standard. 

The people are of very diminutive stature, and according to our 
estimation their average height does not exceed five feet five inches. 
As might be expected, from the Loo Chooans being descendants of 
the Japanese, and numerous families from China having settled in 
the island, there is a union of the disposition and of the manners, 
as well as of the features of both countries* The better classes 
seemed by their features to be allied to the Chinese, and the lower 
orders to the Japanese ; but, in each, the manners of both countries 
may be traced. Their mode of salutation, their custom of putting 
to their foreheads any thing that is given to them, their paper 
pocket handkerchiefs, and some parts of their dress, are peculiarly 
Japanese. In other respects they resemble the Chinese. The 
hatchee-matchee and the hair-pins are, I believe, confined to their 
own country, though smaller metal hair-pins are worn by the ladies 

51 



402 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May, 

of Japan.* On the whole they appear to be a more amiable peo- 
ple than either the Chinese or Japanese, though they are not with- 
out the vices natural to mankind, nor free from those which charac- 
terise the inhabitants of the above mentioned countries. They 
have all the politeness, affability, and ceremony of the Chinese, 
with more honesty and ingenuousness than is generally possessed 
by those people ; and they are less warlike, cruel, and obsequious 
than the Japanese, and perhaps less suspicious of foreigners than 
those people appear to be. In their intercourse with foreigners their 
conduct appears to be governed by the same artful policy as that 
of both China and Japan, and we found they would likewise some- 
times condescend to assert an untruth to serve their purpose ; and 
so apparent was this deceitfulness, that some among us were led 
to impute their extreme civility, and their generosity to strangers, 
to impure motives. They are exceedingly timorous and effeminate, 
so much so that I can fancy they would be induced to grant almost 
any thing they possess rather than go to war ; and as one of my 
officers justly observes in his journal, had a party insisted upon en- 
tering the town, they would probably have submitted in silence, 
treated them with the greatest politeness, and by some pluasible 
pretext have got rid of them as soon as they could. 

They appear to be peaceable and happy, and the lower orders 
to be as free from distress as those of any country that we know 
of ; though we met several men working in the fields who were "in 
rags, and nearly naked. The most striking peculiarity of the peo- 
ple is the excessive politeness of even the lowest classes of inhab- 
itants : on no account would they willingly do any thing disagreea- 
ble to a stranger, and when compelled, by higher authorities than 
themselves, to pursue a certain line of conduct, they did it in the 
manner that was the least likely to give offence ; and it was quite 
laughable to notice the fertility of their invention in order to obtain 
this end, which was seldom gained without a sad sacrifice of integ- 
rity. Their reluctance to receive remuneration for their trouble, or 
for the provisions which they supply to foreigners, is equally re- 
markable. Captain Broughton and Captain Hall have noticed 
their conduct in this respect. In the case of a whale ship which 
put into Napa-keang in 1826, and received nearly two dozen bul- 
locks and other supplies, the only remuneration they would receive 
was a map of the world. And in our own instance (though we 
managed by making presents to the mandarins and to the people to 
prevent their being losers by their generosity,) An-yah's reply to 
my question ; whether we should pay for the supplies we received 
in money or goods ? was, " Mandarin give you plenty, no want pay." 

* See Langsdorff's Travels, vol. ii. 



1827. J and bekring's strait. 403 

But with all this politeness, as is the case with the Chinese, they 
cannot be said to be a polished people. 

Our means of judging of their education were very limited : a 
few only of the lower orders could read the Chinese characters, 
and still fewer were acquainted with the Chinese pronunciation ; 
even among the better classes there were some who were ignorant 
of both. Schools appear to have been established in Loo Choo as 
far back as the reign of Chun-tine, about the year 1187, when char- 
acters were introduced into the country, and the inhabitants began 
to read and write. These characters were said to be the same as 
those of the Japanese alphabet yrofa* In the year 1372, other 
schools were established, and the Chinese character was substituted 
for that of the Japanese ; and about the middle of the seventeenth 
century, when the Mantchur dynasty became fixed upon the throne 
of China, the Emperor Kang-hi built a college in Loo Choo for 
the instruction of youth 5 and for making them familiar with the 
Chinese character. An-yah intimated that schoolmasters had re- 
cently been sent there from China ; and one day while I was ma- 
king some observations, several boys who were noticed among the 
crowd with books, and who seemed proud of being able to read the 
Chinese characters, were pointed out by An-yah as being the schol- 
ars of those people. 

I am of opinion that the inhabitants of Loo Choo have no writ- 
ten character in use which can properly be called their own, but 
that they express themselves in that which is strictly Chinese. 
We certainly never saw any except that of China during our resi- 
dence in the country. The manuscripts which I brought away with 
me were all of the same character precisely, and some were writ- 
ten by persons who did not know that I was more familiar with the 
Chinese character than with any other. 

It is very probable that the Japanese character was in use for- 
merly ; but it is now so long since schools have been established in 
Loo Choo for teaching the Chinese character, viz. since 1372, and 
the Chinese, whose written character is easier to learn than the 
other, have always been the favourite nation of the Loo Choo peo- 
ple, that it is very probable the Japanese characters may now be 
obsolete. An-yah would give us no information on this subject, 
nor would he bring us any of the books which were in use in Loo 
Choo. One which I saw in the hands of a boy at Abbey Point 
appeared to be written in Chinese characters, which are so dif- 
ferent from those of the Japanese that they may be readily de- 
tected. 

M. Grosier on this subject, quoting the Chinese a.uthors, says 

* Recueil de Pere Gaubil. 



404 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC \.^ a lJ , 

that letters, accounts, and the king : s proclamations are written in 
Japanese characters ; and books on morality, history, medicine, as- 
tronomy, he. in those of China. One of the authors whom he 
quotes adds, that the priests throughout the kingdom have schools 
for teaching the youth to read according to the precepts of the Jap- 
anese alphabet Y-ro-fa. As we may presume they teach morality 
in these schools, it would follow, as books on those subjects are all 
written in Chinese characters, that the boys must be taught both 
languages ; but, had this been the case, I think we should have 
seen the Japanese character written by some of them. It is to be 
observed, that the invocations in the temples and on the kao-roo 
stones are all in the character of China. 

While upon this subject, I must observe, that the idea of Mons. 
P. S. Du Ponceau,* " that the meaning of the Chinese characters 
cannot be understood alike in the different languages in which they 
are used," is not strictly correct, as we found many Loo Choo peo- 
ple who understood the meaning of the character, which was the 
same with them as with the Chinese, but who could not give us 
the Chinese pronunciation of the word. And this is an answer to 
another observation which precedes that above mentioned, viz. that, 
" as the Chinese characters are in direct connexion with the Chinese 
spoken words, they can only be read and understood by those who 
are familiar with the spoken language." The Loo Choo words for 
the same things are different from those of the Chinese, the one 
being often a monosyllable, and the other a polysyllable ; as in the 
instance of charcoal^ the Chinese word for it being to, and the Loo 
Chooan cha-chee-jing, and yet the people use precisely the same 
character as the Chinese to express this word ; and so far from its 
being necessary to be familiar with the language to understand the 
characters, many did not know the Chinese words for them. Their 
language throughout is very different from that of the Chinese, and 
much more nearly allied to the Japanese. The observation of M. 
Klaproth, in Archiv fur Asiatische Litteratur, p. 152, that the Loo 
Choo language is a dialect, of the Japanese with a good deal of 
Chinese introduced into it, appears to be perfectly correct, from the 
information of some gentlemen who have compared the two, and 
are familiar with both languages. The vocabulary of Lieutenant 
Clifford, which we found very correct, will at any time afford the 
means of making this comparison. 

The inhabitatns of Loo Choo are very curious on almost all sub- 
jects, and seem very desirous of information ; but we were wholly 

* See a letter from this g-entleman to Captain Basil Hall, R. N. published in the 
Annals of Philosophy for January, 1829. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 405 

unable to judge of their proficiency in any subject, in consequence 
of the great disadvantages under which we visited their country. 

Like the Japanese, they have always shown a determination to 
resist the attempts of Europeans to trade with them, partly, no 
doubt, in consequence of orders to that effect from China, and partly 
from their own timidity ; and whenever a foreign vessel arrives it is 
their policy to keep her in ignorance of their weakness, by confin- 
ing the crew to their vessel, or, if they cannot do that, within a 
limited walk of the beach, and through such places only as will 
not enlighten them on this point ; and also to supply her with 
what she requires, in order that she may have no pretext for re- 
maining. 

Mr. Collie in his journal has given a phrenological description of 
the heads of several Loo Chooans which he examined and measur- 
ed, in which proportions he thinks the lovers of that science will find 
much that is in accordance with the character of the people. The 
article, I am sorry to say, is too long for insertion here, and I only 
mention the circumstance that the information may not be lost. 

We had but few opportunities of seeing any of the females of 
this country, and those only of the working class. An-yah said 
they were ugly, and told us we might judge of what they were like 
from the lower orders which we saw. They dressed their hair in 
the same manner as those people, and were free from the Chinese 
custom of modelling their feet. 

The Loo Choo people dress extremely neat, and always appear 
cleanly in their persons ; they observe the Chinese custom of going 
bareheaded, and when the sun strikes hot upon their skulls, they 
avert its rays with their fans, which may be considered part of the 
dress of a Loo Chooan. In wet weather they wear cloaks and 
broad hats similar to those of the Japanese, and exchange their 
straw sandals for wooden clogs. They have besides umbrellas to 
protect them from the rain. Of their occupations we could not 
judge : it was evident that there were a great many agriculturists 
among them, and many artizans, as they have various manufactures, 
of which I shall speak hereafter. 

They appear to be very temperate in their meals, and indulge 
only in tea, sweatmeats, and tobacco, of which they smoke a great 
quantity; it is, however, of a very mild quality and pleasant flavour. 
Their pipes are very short, and scarcely hold half a thimbleful ; this 
is done that they may be the oftener replenished, in order to enjoy 
the flavour of fresh tobacco, which is considered a luxury. 

For further information on the manners, the dress, and minor 
points of interest belonging to these people, I must refer to the 
publications of Captain Hall and Mr. Macleod, who have so interes- 
tingly described all the little traits of character of the simple Loo 



406 voyage to the pacific [May , 

Chooans, and who have pourtrayed their conduct with so much spir- 
it, good feeling, and minuteness. These descriptions, though they 
have been a little overdrawn from the impulse of grateful recollec- 
tions, from the ignorance in which the authors were kept by the 
cautious inhabitants, and from their desire to avoid giving offence, 
by pushing their inquiries as far as was necessary to enable them to 
form a correct judgment upon many things, are upon the whole, 
very complete representations of the people. 

The supposition that the inhabitants of Loo Choo possessed no 
weapons, offensive or otherwise, naturally excited surprise in Eng- 
land, and the circumstance became one of our chief objects of in- 
quiry. I cannot say the result of the investigation was as satisfac- 
tory as I could have wished, as we never saw any weapon whatev- 
er in use, or otherwise, in the island : and the supposition of their 
existence rests entirely upon the authority of the natives, and upon 
circumstantial evidence. The mandarin Ching-oong-choo, and 
several other persons, declared there were both cannon and muskets 
in the island: and An-yah distinctly stated there were twenty-six 
of the former distributed among their junks.* We were disposed 
to believe this statement, from seeing the fishermen, and all classes 
at Napa, so familiar with the use and exercise of our cannon, and 
particularly so from their appreciating the improvement of the flint 
lock upon that of the match lock, which I understood from the na- 
tives to be in use in Loo Choo ; and unless they possessed these locks 
it is difficult to imagine from whence they could have derived their 
knowledge. The figures drawn upon the panels of the jos-house, 
seated upon broad swords and bow and arrows, may be adduced as 
further evidence of their possessing weapons : and this is material- 
ly strengthened by the fact of their harbour being defended by 
three square stone forts, one on each side of the entrance, and the 
other upon a small island, so situated within the harbour, that it 
would present a raking fire to a vessel entering the port ; and these 
forts having a number of loop-holes in them, and a platform and 
parapet formed above, with stone steps leading up to it in several 
places. This platform would not have been wide enough for our 
cannon, it is true ; but unless it were built for the reception of 
those weapons, there is apparently no other use for which it could 
have been designed. I presented the mandarin with a pair of pis- 
tols, which he thankfully accepted, and they were taken charge of 
by his domestics without exciting any unusual degree of curiosity. 
Upon questioning An-yah where his government procured its pow- 
der, he immediately replied from Fochien. 

It is further extremely improbable that these people should have 

* There wcre-none on board the junk which sailed for China. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 407 

no weapons, considering the expeditions which have been successive- 
ly fitted out by both China and Japan against Loo Choo, and the 
civil wars which unfortunately prevailed in the island, more or less, 
during the greater part of the time that the nation was divided into 
three kingdoms.* Besides, the haughty tone of the king to the 
commander of an expedition which was sent, in A. D. 605, to de- 
mand submission to his master the Emperor of China, viz. " That he 
would acknowledge no master," is not the language of a people des- 
titute of weapons. Loo Choo has been subdued by almost every ex- 
pedition against it, yet it is not likely the country could have made 
even a show of resistance against the invaders, had the inhabitants 
been unarmed ; they nevertheless resisted the famous Tay-Cosama, 
and though conquered, threw off the yoke of Japan soon afterwards, 
and returned under the dominion of China. It was afterwards re- 
taken by Kingtchang with 3,000 Japanese, who imprisoned the 
king, and killed Tching-hoey, his father, because he refused to ac- 
knowledge the sovereignty of Japan. f They are, besides, said to 
have sent swords as tribute to Japan. In 1454 the king Chang-tai- 
keiou had to sustain a civil war against his brother, who was at first 
successful, and beat Chang-tai-keiou in a battle, in which he fought 
at the head of his troops. It is not improbable that all this warfare 
and bloodshed should have transpired without the Loo Chooans be- 
ing possessed of arms ; besides, it is expressly stated by Supao-Ko- 
ang, that arms were manufactured in the island. I am, therefore, 
disposed to believe that the Loo Chooans have weapons, and that 
they are similar to those in use in China. And with regard to the 
objection which none of them having ever been seen in Loo Choo 
would offer, I can only say, that while I was in China, with the 
exception of cannon in the forts, I did not see a weapon of any kind, 
though that people is well known to possess them. 

It was also thought that the Loo Choo people were ignorant of 
the use of money. But this point has now been satisfactorily de- 
dermined, by our having seen it in circulation in the island, and 
having some of it in our own possession. The coin was similar to 
the cash of China. An-yah declared that there were no gold or sil- 
ver coins in the country, not even ignots, which are in use in China ; 
but this will hereafter, perhaps, prove to be untrue, as he even de- 
nied the use of the cash until it was found in circulation. There is 
very little doubt that money has been long known to, if not in use 
among, the Loo Chooans. About the year A. D. 1454, in the 

* From its division under Yut-Ching- in 1300, until it was united under Chang- 
pat-chi, about a century afterwards. 

t Report of Supao-Koang-, a learned Chinese physician, sent by the Emperor of 
China to Loo Choo in 1719, to report upon the country. — Lettres Edifiantes et Cri-u 
euses, vol. xxviii. 



408 voyage to the pacific [May, 

reign of Chang-tai-keiou, we are told that so large a quantity of sil- 
ver and brass coin was taken from China to Loo Choo, that the 
provinces of Tche-Kiang and of Fochien complained to the empe- 
ror of the scarcity it had occasioned in those places ;* and Pere 
Gaubil, quoting Supao-Koang,f after enumerating several articles of 
trade, says " tout cela se vende et s'achete, ou par ecbange ou en 
deniers de cuivres de la Chine." 

Our countrymen were further led to believe, from what we saw 
of the mild and gentle conduct of the superior orders in Loo Choo 
towards their inferiors, that the heaviest penalty attached to the com- 
mission of a crime was a gentle tap of a fan. Our friend with his 
bamboo cane, who was put on board to preserve order among his 
countrymen, afforded the first and most satisfactory evidence we 
could have had of this being an error, and had we possessed no oth- 
er means of information, his conduct would have favoured the pre- 
sumption of more severe chastisement being occasionally inflicted. 
It happened, however, fortunately, that I had purchased in China a 
book of the punishments of that country) in which the refined cruelty 
of the Chinese is exhibited in a variety of ways. By showing these 
to the Loo Choo people, and inquiring if the same were practiced in 
their country, we found that many of their punishments were very 
similar. Those which they acknowledged were death by strangu- 
lation upon a cross, and sometimes under the most cruel torture ; 
and minor punishments, such as loading the body with iron chains ; 
or locking the neck into a heavy wooden frame ; enclosing a person 
in a case, with only his head out, shaved, and exposed to a scorch- 
ing sun ; and binding the hands and feet, and throwing quicklime 
into the eyes. I was further assured that confession was sometimes 
extorted by the unheard-of cruelty of dividing the joints of the fin- 
gers alternately, and clipping the muscles of the legs and arms with 
scissors. Isaacha Sando took pains to explain the manner in which 
this cruelty was performed, putting his fingers to the muscles in im- 
itation of a pair of sheers, so that I could not be mistaken : besides, 
other persons at Potsoong told me in answer to my inquiry, for I 
was rather sceptical myself, that it was quite true, and that they 
had seen a person expire under this species of torture. However, 
lest it should be thought I may have erred in attaching such cruel- 
ties to a people apparently so mild and humane, I shad insert some 
questions that were put to the Loo Chooans out of Dr. Morrison's 
Dictionary, and their answers to them respectively. 

" Do the Loo Choo people torture and interrogate with the lash ?" 
" Yes." — " Do they examine by torture ?" Yes." — " Do they give 

* Recueil de Pere Gaubil. 
tlbid. p 402, Lettres Edifiantes. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 409 

false evidence through fear of torture ?" " Yes." — " Are great offi- 
cers of the third degree of rank and upwards, who are degraded and 
seized to be tried, subjected to torture ?" "No." — "Is torture in- 
flicted in an illegal and extreme degree ?" " Not illegal." — " Do 
you torture to death the real offender ?" " Yes, sometimes." — ■ 
" What punishment do you inflict for murder?" " Kill by hanging 
or strangulation"* — " For robbery ?" " The same." — " For adul- 
tery ?" "Banish to Pantajan." (probably Pat-chong-chan, an is- 
and to the south-west of Typingsan.) — " For seduction ?" " The 
same." Minor offences we were told were punished with a bam- 
booing or flagellation with a rod. Crimes are said to be few in num- 
ber, and speaking generally there appears to be very little vice in 
the people. 

I was assured by An-yah that marriages in Loo Choo were con- 
tracted as they are in China, by the parents or by a friend of the 
parties, without the principals seeing each other. Only one wife, I 
believe is allowed in Loo Choo, though to the question, whether a 
plurality of wives was permitted ? both An-yah and Shtafacoo said 
that the mandarin had five, and that the king had several. f They, 
however, afterwards declared that in their country it was customary 
to have only one wife. Perhaps it is the same in Loo Choo as in 
China where a man may have only one lawful wife ; but with her 
permission he may marry as many more as he can provide for. 
These wives are as much respected as the first wife, but they do 
not inherit their husband's property. 

In Loo Choo, as in China, there is no religion of the state, and 
every man is allowed freely to enjoy his own opinion, though here, 
also, a distinction is made between the sects one being considered 
superior to the other. The sects in Loo Choo are Joo, Taou, and 
Foo, or Budh ; but the disciples of the latter consist almost entire- 
ly of persons of the lowest order, and An-yah appeared to think very 
lightly of its votaries, saying there were " no good" It is upon rec- 
ord that it is 1011 years since this sect passed from China to Loo 
Choo. For several centuries its doctrines appear to have been ad- 
vocated by the court as well as by the common people : but with 
the latter classes they have since been supplanted by those of Con- 
fucius. We are told that in the year 1372 several families from 
Fochien settled near Napa-kiang, and introduced ceremonies in hon- 
our of the great Chinese philosopher, whose memory was further 
honoured by a temple being erected to him in Loo Choo, in 1663, 
by the Manshur Tartar, Emperor Kang-hi. Confucius is now 
honoured and revered by all classes in Loo Choo. The sect Taou 

* The words in italics were implied by signs, 
t Supao-Koang savs a plurality of wives is permitted. 

52 



410 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May, 

which is equally corrupt with that of Foo, has but few advocates 
among the better classes of society. 

Like the Chinese, the Loo Chooans are extremely superstitious 
and invoke their deities upon every occasion, sometimes praying to 
the good spirit, and at others to the evil. Near the beach to the 
northward ofPotsoong, upon the shore which faces the coast of 
China, there were several square stones with pieces of paper attach- 
ed to them. The natives gave us to understand they were the 
prayers of individuals ; but we could not exactly understand the na- 
ture of them. A label similarly placed to those upon the beach 
was carried away by Captain Hall, and found to contain a prayer 
for the safe voyage of a friend who had gone from Loo Choo to Chi- 
na ; it is very probable, therefore, that those which we saw were 
for similar purposes. At the Jos House at Potsoong I have men- 
tioned pieces of paper being suspended between the panels, and 
have also suggested the probability of their being supplications of a 
similar nature. Indeed one of these also was taken to Macao by 
Lieutenant Clifford, and found to be an invocation of the Devil.* 

In a natural cave near Abbey Point, I found a rudely carved im- 
age, about three feet in height, of the goddess Kwan-yin (pronoun- 
ced Kwan-yongby the Loo Chooans). In front of the deity there 
were several square stone vessels for offerings, and upon one of them 
shortpieces of polished wood were placed, which I conjectured to 
be for the purpose of deciding questions, in the manner practised by 
the Foo sect in China, by being tossed in the air, or rattled in a 
bamboo case, until one falls to the ground with its mark uppermost, 
when it is referred to a number in the book of the priest, and an 
answer is given accordingly. The natives were very unwilling to 
allow me to approach this figure, and pulled me back when I step- 
ped into a small stone area in front of it, for the purpose of exam- 
ining these pieces of wood. In China there are fasts in honour of 
this goddess, and no doubt there are the same in Loo Choo. 

The following answers to several questions which I put to the na- 
tives of Loo Choo will fully explain the religion of the people. 

" How many religions are there in Loo Choo ?" " Three." — 
" What are these religions ?" " Joo, Shih, Taou. Shih is the 
same as Foo." — " Are there many persons of the religion of Joo ?" 
" Plenty."—" Foo ?" " No good."—" Taou ?" " Few."—" Does 
the sect Joo worship images ?" " Sometimes kneel down to heaven 
sometimes pray in heart, sometimes go priest house (temple)." — 
" Do they go to the temple of Kwan-yin ?" " Yes." — " Do they 
go to the temple of Pih-chang?" "Sometimes." — "Do they go to 

* Hall's Loo Choo, 4to. p, 206. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 411 

the temple of Ching-hwang ?"* "No." — "Do Joo, Shih, and 
Taou believe that heaven will reward the good and punish the bad ?" 
"Yes." 

To the sentence, " At heart the doctrine of the three religions is 
the same ; and it is firmly believed that heaven will do justice by 
rewarding the good and punishing the bad," An-yah did not assent. 
To the following sentence, "Both in this life and in the life to 
come there are rewards and puninshments ; but there is regard to 
the offences of men, whether heinous or not : speedy punishments 
are in this life ; those that are remote in the world to come," An-yah 
replied, " Priest say so." 

" God created and constantly governs all things ?" " Englishman's 
God, yes." — "When God created the great progenitor of all men, 
he was perfectly holy and perfectly happy ?" " No." — "The first 
ancestor of the human race sinned against God, and all his descen- 
dants are naturally depraved, inclined to evil, and averse from good." 
" Good." — " If men's hearts be not renewed, and their sins atoned 
for, they must after death suffer everlasting misery in hell." "Priest 
say so: An-yah not think so." — " Do the three sects believe in 
metempsychosis ?" This was not understood. — " Do they believe 
that all things are appointed by heaven?" "Yes." — "Are there 
any atheists in Loo Choo ?" " Many." 

In Loo Choo the priesthood are as much neglected and despised 
as in China, notwithstanding their being consulted as oracles by all 
classes. Several of them visited me in the garden at Potsoong, 
and remained while I made my magnetical observations. As these 
occupied a long time, I had an opportunity of particularly remark- 
ing these unfortunate beings, and certainly I never saw a more un- 
intellectual and care-worn class of men. Many persons crowded 
round the spot to observe what was going forward, and the poor 
priests were obliged to give way to every new comer, notwithstand- 
ing they were in their own garden. Their heads were shaved, 
similar to those of the Bodzes in China. I am not aware in what 
this practice originated, but as an observer I could not help noticing 
that the same operation is performed on the heads of criminals, or 
of persons who are disgraced in China and from 1' Abbe Grosier it 
appears to be considered a similar disgrace in Loo Choo.f 

I endeavoured to distribute amongst the inhabitants some religious 
books which Dr. Morrison had given me in China, but there was 
a very great repugnance among the better part of the community to 
suffer them even to be looked into, much less to being carried 
away ; and several that were secretly taken on shore by the lower 

* Ching-hwang is the goddess of Canton. 
t Description de la Chine, vol. II. p. 143. 



412 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Ma I/, 

orders were brought back the next day. However I succeeded in 
disposing of a few copies, and Mr. Lay, I am glad to find, was 
equally fortunate with some which he also obtained from the same 
gentleman. 

It has been shown, in the course of the narrative, that the pres- 
ent manner of disposing of the dead differs from that described by 
Pere Gaubil, who says they burn the flesh of the deceased, and 
preserve the bones. It is not improbable that the custom may have 
changed, and that there is no mistake in the statement, as there is 
no reason to doubt the veracity of the Chinese author whom he 
quotes. 

They pay every possible attention and respect to their departed 
friends by attending strictly to their mourning, frequently visiting 
the tombs, and, for a certain time after the bodies are interred, in 
supplying the cups and other vessels placed there with tea, and the 
lamps with oil, and also by keeping the tombs exceedingly neat and 
clean. We have frequently seen persons attending these lamps, 
and Lieutenant Wainwright noticed an old man strewing flowers and 
shells upon a newly made grave, which he said contained his son, 
and watching several sticks of incense as they burned slowly down 
to the earth in which they were fixed. 

The trade of this island is almost entirely confined to Japan, Chi- 
na, and Formosa ; Manilla is known as a commercial country, and 
it is recorded that a vessel has made the voyage to Malacca. In 
China their vessels go to Fochien, which they call Wheit-yen, and 
sometimes to Pekin. Commerce between Japan and Loo Choo 
is conducted entirely in Japenese vessels, which bring hemp, iron 
copper, pewter, cotton, culinary utensils, lacquered furniture, ex- 
cellent hones, and occasionally rice ; though this article when wan- 
ted is generally supplied from an island to the northward belong- 
ing to Loo Choo, called Ooshima : but this is only required in dry 
seasons. The exports of Loo Choo are salt, grain, tobacco, sam- 
schew spirit, rice, when sufficiently plentiful, grass hemp, of which 
their clothes are made, hemp, and cotton. In return for these they 
bring from China different kinds of porcelain, glass, furniiure, med- 
icines, silver, iron, silks, nails, tiles, tools, and tea, as that grown 
upon Loo Choo is of an inferior quality. Several other articles of 
both export and import are mentioned by Supao-Koang, such 
as gold and silver from Formosa, and iron from China ; among the 
former, mother-of-peaal, tortoise-shell, bezoar-stone, and excellent 
hones. The last mentioned articles, however, if found in Loo Choo 
are certainly not very plentiful, as they are carried thither from Ja- 
pan ; and An-yah denied there being any mother-of-pearl there. 
This trade is conducted in two junks belonging to Loo Choo, 
which go annually to China : and they have besides these their trib- 
■> vessel. 



1827.] AND BEERINc's STRAIT. 413 

The trade with Japan appears formerly to have been limited at 
125thails (tael of Canton,) beyond which nothing was allowed to 
be sold. The goods carried to the country consisted of silks and 
other stuffs, with Chinese commodities, and the produce of their 
own country, such as corn, rice, pulse, fruits, spirits, mother of 
pearl, cowries, and large flat shells, which are so transparent that 
they are used in Japan for windows instead of glass.* 

Their manufactures do not appear to be numerous, and are prob- 
ably only such as are necessary for their own convenience. I have 
spoken of the rude hand-looms in use, the spinning-wheel, and the 
mills worked by cattle ; these were the only machines we saw, 
though it may be inferred they have others. A short distance to 
the southward of Napia-kiang I was told there was a paper manufac- 
tory, and Jhad a quantity of paper given me said to have been made 
there. It closely resembled that of China, but appeared to be more 
woolly. Grass-cloth, of a coarse texture, and coarse cottons, are 
also wove upon the island ; but I believe all the finer ones come 
from China, as well as the broad cloth of which their cloaks are 
made. Red pottery moderately good, a bad porcelain, and tiles, 
are among their manufactures, and also paper fans, of which the 
skeleton is bamboo ; pipes, hair pins, and wicker baskets, and two 
sorts of spirits distilled from grain ; moroofocoo, already described ; 
and another called sackee, resembling the samshew of China ; salt, 
from the natural deposition of the sea, is collected in pans. 

Supao-Koang mentions, among the manufactures of this country, 
silk, arms, brass instruments, gold and silver ornaments, a paper 
even thicker than that of Corea, made of les cocons, and another 
made of bamboo, besides that manufactured from the bark of the 
paper tree. He states they have woods fit for dyes, and particular- 
ly esteem one made from a tree, the leaves of which resemble those 
of the citron tree ; and mentions brass, pewter, saddles, bridles, and 
sheaths as being manufactured with considerable taste and neatness 
upon the island, and as forming part of the tribute to China, from 
which it might be inferred that they were better executed than those 
in Pekin. 

Previous to our departure I offered An-yah a patent corn mill 
and a winnowing machine, and showed him the the use of them. 
He was extremely thankful for them at first, but after a little con- 
sideration he declined the present, without assigning any reason. 
He probably imagined the introduction of foreign machinery might 
be disapproved by his superiors. 

It has been observed that drums and tambourines were the only 
musical instruments among these people ; we saw a flute, and 

*Ka;mpfer's History of Japan, p. 381. 



414 voyage to the pacific [May, 

were told that the inhabitants possessed violins and other stringed 
instruments ; yet they do not appear to be a musical nation. 

Among our numerous inquiries there was not one to which we got 
such contradictory answers as that concerning the residence of the 
king of Loo Choo. It was evident that there was a person of very 
high authority upon the island, whom they styled wang, which in 
Dr. Morrison's Dictionary is translated king, and that his residence 
was not far from Napa-kiang ; but An-yah provoked me much by 
always evading this question. Sometimes he said it was four days 
to the north-east, at others that it was only one, and at last that it 
was at a place called Sheui, or Shoodi. Some of the natives whom 
I interrogated on this subject, declared it was at Ee-goo-see-coo, 
about nine leagues to the northward ; others, however, told me the 
name of his residence was Shoodi ; therefore, Sheui, or Shoodi, is 
in all probability the correct name of the place. As the natives 
pointed out to me the town upon the hill, at the back of Napa-ki- 
ang as Shoodi, and as another party named it to Mr. Collie Shumi, 
we may presume that this town is the capital of Loo Choo ; and 
this is the conclusion, as already remarked, that Captain Hall came 
to, after many inquiries on the subject. Indeed I should think there 
could be not much doubt about it, as it answers very well both in 
name and position to the capital described by Supao Koang, who 
remarks that the king holds his court in the south-west part of the 
island. The ground it stands upon is called Cheuli,* and that near 
this place the palace of the king is situated upon a hill, In anoth- 
er part he says that the space between Napa-kiang and the palace 
is almost one continued town.f Mr. Klaproth, however, has pub- 
lished extracts from some Chinese documents, which place the cap- 
ital twenty Us (ten miles ?) east of Napa-kiang. 

In the journal of my officers, I find that some of them were in- 
formed by the inhabitants that tribute was sent to China only once 
in seven years, and others that it was paid every year. Kaempfer 
also says that tribute is sent every year to the Tartarian monarch, 
in token of submission. By the Chinese accounts it is demanded 
every second year, as I have already stated. M. J. Klaproth, quo- 
ting one of these authors, says, in 1654 Loo Choo sent Chang-Chy, 
the king's son, with an ambassador to Pekin, when it was arranged 
that every second year an ambassador should be sent to that court 
with tribute, which should consist of 3,000 lbs. of copper, 12,600 
lbs. of sulphur, and 3,000 lbs. of a strong silk ; and that the number 
of his suite should not exceed a hundred and fifty persons. 

Lord macartney, when on his embassy to the court of China, 

* Cheli by the Loo Chooans would be pronounced Cheudi, in the same way as 
they call Loo-Choo Doo-Choo. 
t Lettres Edifiantes, p. 340. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 415 

met the mandarins from Loo Choo, who were going with this tribute 
to Pekin, and who informed him their chief sent delegates every 
two years to offer tribute.* And when we were at Loo Choo, both 
Ching-oong-choo and An-yah informed me to the same effect, viz. 
that it was sent every second year. We may therefore conclude, 
that this is the period agreed upon between the two countries. 

M. Klaproth, p. 164, informs us that, notwithstanding tribute is 
paid to the court of China, Loo Choo is also compelled to acknowl- 
edge the sovereignty of Japan, to send ambassadors there from time 
to time, and to pay tribute in swords, horses, a species of perfume, 
ambergris, vases for perfumes, and a sort of stuff, a texture manu- 
factured from the bark of trees, lacquered tables inlaid with shells 
or mother of pearl, and madder, &c. I shall merely observe upon 
this passage, that some of the articles which are said to be carried 
as tribute to Japan are actually taken from thence, and from China 
to Loo Choo, such as the vases and lacquered tables ; and that 
mother of pearl is said by the natives not to be found upon the 
shores of their island. 

The highest point of Loo Choo which we saw was a hill situated 
at the back of Barrow's Bay ,in about the latitude of 26' 27" N., an- 
swering in position nearly to a mountain which appears on the chart 
of Mr. Klaproth, under the name of Onnodake. The height of 
this mountain is 1089 feet. The next highest point to this, which 
was visible from the anchorage, was the summit of the hill of Su- 
mar, on which the capital is built; the highest point of this is 540 
feet, six inches. Abbey Point is 98 feet six inches, and a bluff to 
the northward of Potsoong 99 feet and nine inches. The Sugar 
Loaf (Ee-goo-see-coo) was to far diatant for us to determine its 
height : but I think Mr. Klaproth is wrong in saying it may be seen 
twenty-five sea leauges, as our distance from it was only ten leagues, 
and it was scarcely above the horizon. f It is certainly not so high 
as Onnodake, which, to a person at the surface of the sea, would 
be just visible at the distance of thirty-four miles. He is also mis- 
taken in supposing it the only peak on the island. 

These heights appear to be gained by ascents of modorate ele- 
vation only. In no part did we perceive any hills so abrupt that 
they could not be turned to account by the agriculturist. The cen- 
tre of the island, or perhaps a line drawn a little to the westward 
of it is the most elevated part of the country. Still the island is 
not divided by a ridge, but by a number of rounded eminences, for 
the most part of the same elevation, with valleys between them ; 
so that when viewed at a distance the island appears to have a very 

* Embassy to China, by Sir George Staunton, vol. ii. p. 458 
t Klaproth's Memoires relatifs a 1, Asic, torn, ii p. 173. 



416 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May. 

level surface. In a Chinese plan of Loo Choo, all these eminen- 
ces are occupied by palaces and by courts of the king. The high- 
er parts of the island are, in general, surmounted by trees, generally 
of the pinus massoniana, and the cycas ; though they are sometimes 
bare, or at most clothed with a diminutive and uesless vegetation. 
It not unfrequently happens that small precipices occur near the 
summits of the hills, and that large blocks of a coral-like substance 
are seen lying as if the they had been left there by the sea. This 
substance, of which all the rocky parts of the island that we exam- 
ined were composed, is a cellular or granular limestone, bearing a 
great resemblance to coral, for which it might easily be mistaken. 
It has a very rugged surface, not unlike silex macliere. Lieuten- 
ant Belcher found sandstone of a loose texture, enclosing balls of 
blue marl, and in one instance interstratified with it in alternate 
seams with the coral formation. This formation constituted part of 
a reef, dry at low water. In the marl he found cylindrical and elon- 
gated cones, similar to the belemite, of a light colour, and occasion- 
ally crystalizations of calcareous spar. 

The precipices inland, as well as those which form cliffs upon the 
coast, are hollowed out beneath, as if they had been subjected to 
the action of the waves. Upon the sea-coast this has no doubt been 
the case, and the Capstan Rock, spoken of before, presents a curi- 
ous instance of its effect; but it is not quite so evident that the sea 
has reached the cliffs near Abbey Point, as they are separated from 
it by a plain covered with vegetation, and the violence of the waves 
is broken by reefs which lie far outside them. 

The soil in the vicinity of Napa-kiang is generally arenaceous and 
marly but to the south-east of Abbey Point there is a stratum of 
clay, which, in consequence of its retaining moisture better than 
other parts of the soil, is appropriated to the cultivation of rice. 

The greater part of the island is surrounded by reefs of coral. 
These are of two sorts ; one in which the animals have ceased to 
exist, and the other which is still occupied by them. Both are 
darker-coloured than the reefs in the middle of the Pacific, owing, 
probably, to the various depositions which the rains have washed 
from the land. The shells found upon them are very much incrus- 
ted. About eight miles to the northward of Napa-kiang there is a 
deep bay, the shores of which are very flat, and have been convert- 
ed into salt-pans by the natives. A river which appears to have its 
rise near the capital, after passing at the back of some hills, about 
five miles inland, empties itself into this bay. There is also anoth- 
er stream at Potsoong. The natives would not permit us to ascer- 
tain how far inland the water flowed up the harbour ; nor would 
they inform us whether it was a division of the island, as its appear- 
ance induced us to suppose. In the Chinese plan already alluded 



1827.] and beertng's stratt. ; 417 

to, the island is divided by such a channel ; but it is doubtful wheth- 
er this division may not be intended for the channel which separates 
Loo Choo from the Madjico-sima group, as the island to the south- 
ward has Ta-paingchan written upon it, and there is a small island 
close to the eastward of it called Little Leiv Kew* The relative 
positions of these are correctly given in the plan, but, if intended 
for those places, there is an egregious violation of all distance and 
proportion. 

It has been already mentioned that the vegetable productions of 
the torrid and temperate zones are here found combined. The pal- 
mare, boerhavia, scaevola, tournefortia, and other trees and shrubs 
recall the Coral Islands of the tropical regions to our view, while 
the rosacea? onagrarire, etc. remind us of the temperate shores of our 
own continent. The remarkable genus of clerodendrum is here pe- 
culiarly abundant. Among the trees and shrubs which adorn the 
heights, the bamboo, hibiscus tiliaceus, thespesiapopularia, hibiscus, 
rosa sinensis, pandanus, piscidium, and several other trees and shrubs, 
some of which were new to us, were found uniting their graceful fo- 
liage ; while in the gardens we noticed plantain, banana, fig, and 
orange trees, though the latter were apparently very scarce. We 
were told that they had pomegranates, but that they had neither pine- 
apples, plums, nor leches, though they were perfectly acquainted 
with them all. The le-che is a fruit which is said to be peculiar to 
China : indeed Pere J. B. Dunhalde, in his Description de la Chine, 
vol. i. p. 104, says it grows only in two provinces of that great em- 
pire, Quang-tong, and Fokien. Pere Gaubil, however, affirms that 
it is at Loo Choo, and that there are also there citrons, lemons, rai- 
sins, plums, apples, and pears, none of which we saw. 

We were informed that the tea plant was tolerably abundant, and 
that the mild and excellent tobacco which was brought on board 
was the growth of the island. Gaubil affirms they have ginger, and 
a wood which they burn as incense, as well as camphor trees, ce- 
dars, laurels, and pines. Among the vegetable productions the 
sweet potatoe appears to be the most plentiful ; the climate seemed 
so favourable to its growth, that we observed the tops rising from a 
soil composed almost entirely of sand. Both the root and the leaf 
are eaten by the natives. 

The soil appears to be cultivated entirely ivith the hoe, and there 
are very few places on which this kind of labour has not been be- 
stowed. Streams of water are not very abundant, and it is highly 
interesting to notice the manner in which the inhabitants have turn- 
ed those which they possess to the greatest advantage, by conduct- 

* Formosa, notwithstanding- it is considerably larger than Loo Choo, was called 
Little Lieou-Kieou, from there being- so few inhabitants upon it. — Receueil de P. 
Gaubil. 

53 



418 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May, 

ing them in troughs from place to place, and at last allowing them 
to overflow flat places near the beach, for the purpose of raising rice 
and taro, which require a soil constantly wet. 

The principal animals which we saw at Loo Choo were bullocks, 
horses, asses, goats, pigs, and cats ; all of very diminutive size : a 
bullock which was brought to us weighed only lOOlbs. without the 
offal, and the horses were so low that a tall person had difficulty in 
keeping his feet off the ground ; yet these animals must be esteemed in 
in Japan, as they are said to have formed part of the tribute to that 
place. The poultry are also small : we heard dogs, but never saw 
any. Klaproth, p. 187, asserts there are bears, wolves, and jack- 
als. A venomous snake is also said to exist in the interior. But the 
only other animals we saw were mice, lizards, and frogs; the latter 
somewhat different to those of our own country. 

The insects are grasshoppers, dragon-flies, butter-flies, honey- 
bees, wasps, moskitos of a large size, spiders, and a mantis, proba- 
bly peculiar to the island. 

There appeared to be very few birds, and of these we could pro- 
cure no specimens, in consequence of the great objection on the part 
of the natives to our firing at them, arising probably from their be- 
lief in transubstantiation. Those which we observed at a distance 
resembled larks, martins, wood-pigeons, beach-plovers, tringas, he- 
rons, and tern. An-yah said there were no patridges in the island. 

Fish are more abundant though not large, excepting sharks and 
dolphins, which are taken at sea, and guard-fish, which are often 
seen in the harbour. Those frequenting the reefs belong principal- 
ly to the genera chaetodon and labrus. A chromis, a beautiful small 
fish, was noticed in the waters which inundated the rice fields. 

Upon the reefs are several asteria. These animals are furnished 
with long spiny tentacular, and are in the habit of conceding their 
bodies in the hollow parts of the coral, and leaving their tentacular 
to be washed about and partake of the waving motion of the sea ; 
and to a person unacquainted with the zoophytes which form the 
coral, they might be supposed to be the animals connected with its 
structure. Lieutenant Belcher remarks of these reefs that a change 
must have taken place in them since they were visited by the Al- 
ceste and Lyra, as he never observed any coral reefs apparently so 
destitute of animation as those which surround Loo Choo. The 
sea anemone and other zoophytes were very scarce. 

We saw no shells of any value. A few cardium, trochius, and 
strombus were brought me by An-yah, and the haliotis was seen on 
the beach ; but the history of this island states that the mother of 
pearl, large flat shells nearly transparent, and cowries, formed part 
of the tribute to Japan. An-yah, however, assured me there were 
no pearl shells upon the coast. 



1827.] and beering's strait. - 419 

The Climate of Loo Choo must be very mild, from the nature of 
the dwelling-houses and the dress of the people ; the mean temper- 
ature of the air, for the fortnight which we passed in the harbour, 
was 70°. Unlike the Typa, we here experienced no great transi- 
tions, but an almost uniform temperature, which dissipated all the 
sickness the Typa had occasioned. We had, however, a good 
deal of rain in this time, which was about the change of the mon- 
soon. By An-yah's account this island is occasionally visited by 
violent ta-foongs (mighty-winds,) which unroof the houses and de- 
stroy the crops, and do other damage. They had experienced one, 
only the month previous to our arrival, which we were told had de- 
stroyed a great deal of rice, and was the cause of so many Japanese 
vessels being in the port. In 1708 it appears that one of these hur- 
ricanes did incalculable mischief, and occasioned much misery. The 
inhabitants seem to entertain a great dread of famine, and it is not 
improbable that these ta-foongs may occasion the evil. April, May, 
June, July, August, and- September are the months in which these 
winds are liable to occur. 

The harbour of Napa-kiang, though open to winds from the north, 
by the west to south-west is very secure, provided ships anchor in 
the Barnpool, a bay formed by the coral, to the northward of the 
Capstan Rock. In the outer anchorage, at high water, there is 
sometimes a considerable swell ; and, were it to blow hard from the 
westward at the time of the spring tides, I have no doubt it would 
be sensibly felt. The reefs which afford protection to the harbour 
are scarcely above the sea at low water neap tides, and some remain 
wholly covered. In general they are much broken, and have many 
knolls in their vicinity, which ought to make ships cautious how they 
stand towards them. There are two entrances to the outer harbour, 
one from the northward, and the other from the westward. The 
former is narrow, and has several dangerous rocks in the channel, 
which, as they are not in general visible, are very likely to prove 
injurious to vessels ; and as it can seldom happen that there is a ne- 
cessity for entering the harbour in that direction, the passage ought 
to be avoided. The western entrance is divided into two channels 
by a coral bank, with only seven feet water upon it, which, as it 
was discovered by the Blossom, I named after that ship. The pas- 
sage on either side this rock may be made use of as convenient ; 
but that to the southward is preferable with southerly winds and 
flood tides, and the other with the reverse. A small hillock to the 
left of a cluster of trees on the distant land, in the direction of Mt. 
Onnadake, open about 4° to the eastward of a remarkable headland to 
the northward of Potsoong, will lead through the channel ; and the 
Captsan Rock,with the highest part of the hill over Napa-kiang,which 
has the appearance of a small cluster of trees,will lead close over the 



420 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May, 

north end of Blossom Rock. This notice of the dangers of enter- 
ing the harbour will be sufficient in this place, and, if vessels are not 
provided with a chart or require further directions, it will be prudent 
to anchor a boat upon the rock. 

Though the inhabitants of Loo Choo show so much anxiety for 
charts, they do not appear to have profited much by those which 
have been given to them, nor by those published in China or Japan. 
Their knowledge of geography is indeed extremely limited, and, 
with the exception of the islands and places with which they trade, 
they may be said to be almost ignorant of the geography of every 
other part of the globe. I did not omit to inquire about Ginsima, 
Kinsima, and Boninsima, islands which were supposed to exist at no 
great distance to the eastward of Loo Choo. The two first have never 
been seen since their discovery, but the other group has long been 
known to Japan and if we can credit the charts of the Japanese, it 
has been inhabited some time, as several villages and temples are 
marked therein. The Loo Chooans, however, could give me no in- 
formation of it, or of any other islands lying to the eastward of their 
own, and were quite surprised at hearing a Japanese vessel* had 
been cast away upon an island in that direction. 

The groups of islands seen in the distance to the westward of Loo 
Choo are called by the natives Kirrama Agoo-gnee. Kirrama con- 
sists of four islands, Zammamee, Accar, Ghirooma, and Toocast- 
chee, of which all but the last are very small. Agoo-gnee consists 
of two small island, Aghee and Homar. Both groups are peopled 
from and are subject to Loo Choo. Kirrama has four mandarins, 
one of the higher order, and three inferior ; and Agoo-gnee two of 
the latter. The islands are very scantily peopled : in Toocastchee, 
which is the largest, there are but five hundred houses. The small 
coral islands off Napa-kiang are called Tzee. 

To the northward of Loo Choo there are two islands, from which 
supplies are occasionally received ; Ooshima,f of which I have spo- 
ken before as being subject to Loo Choo, and Yachoo-chima, a col- 
ony of Japan. Ooshima produces an abundance of rice, and as in 
dry seasons in Loo Choo this valuable grain sometimes fails, Yacoo 
chima junks, which appear to be the great carriers to Loo Choo, go 
there and load. Ya-choo-chima is said to be an island of great ex- 
tent, but the chart which An-yah drew to show its situation was too 
rude for me even to conjecture which of the islands belonging to 
Japan it might be. 

In my narrative of Loo Choo I have made allusion to the works 

* See Kaempfer's Xistory of Japan. 

t Probably O-foushima of Supao-Koang", situated in latitude 30° JN T . 



1827.] and beering's strait. 421 

of several Chinese and Japanese authors,* who have written upon 
that island. As their accounts generally wear the appearance of 
truth, and as they are the only records we have of the early history 
of a country so little visited by Europeans, I shall give a sketch of 
them, that my reader may become acquainted with what is known 
of the history of that remote country, without having to search dif- 
ferent books, only one of which has as yet been published in Eng- 
land. 

The inhabitants of Loo Choo are extremely jealous of their an- 
tiquity as a nation. They trace their descent, from a male and 
female, who were named Omo-mey-keiou, who had three sons and 
two daughters. The eldest of these boys was named Tien sun (or 
the grandson of heaven.) He was afterwards the first king of Loo Choo 
and from the first year of his reign to the first of that of Chun-tien, 
who ascended the throne A. D. 1187, they reckon a period of no 
less than 17,802 years. The kings were supposed to be descended 
from the eldest son, the nobility from the second, and the com- 
moners from the youngest. The eldest daughter was named Kun- 
kun, and had the title of Spirit of Heaven ; the other, named Tcho- 
tcho, was called the Spirit of the Ocean. 

We are told that five and twenty dynasties successively occu- 
pied the throne of Loo Choo, from the death of Tien-sun to the 
reign of Chun-tien ; but nothing further was known of the history 
of the country until the year A. D. 605, when the Emperor of 
China, of the dynasty of Soui," being informed there were some 
islands to the eastward of his dominions named Loo Choo, became 
desirous of reconnoitring their situation, and of becoming acquain- 
ted with the resources of the islands. He accordingly fitted out an 
expedition, but it did not effect what the emperor desired. It how- 
ever, brought back a few natives : and an embassador from Japan 
happening to be at the court of China at that time, informed the 
emperor that these people belonged to Loo Choo, and described 
their island as being poor and miserable, and the inhabitants as bar- 
barians. Being informed that in five days a vessel could go from 
his dominions to the residence of the king of these islands, the em- 
peror, Yang-tee sent some learned men with interpreters to Loo 
Choo to obtain information, and to signify to the king that he must 
acknowledge the sovereignty of the emperor of China, and do him 
homage. This embassy succeeded in reaching its destination, but 
as might have been expected from the ruler of an independent peo- 

* The works of these authors will be found in Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, toin. 
xxiii. 1811 : Grosier sur la Chine, torn, ii. ; M. J. Klaproth, Memoires sur la Cliine, 
Ksempfer's History of Japan, vol. i. ; P. J. B. Duhalde. For other information on 
Doo Choo, the reader is referred to the Voyages of Benyowsky, Brougrhton, and of 
H. M. ships Alacste and Lyra. 



422 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [May, 

pie, it was badly received, and was obliged to return with the haugh- 
ty answer to their sovereign, that the prince of Loo Choo would 
acknowledge no chief superior to himself. Indignant at being thus 
treated by a people who had been described as barbarians, he put 
ten thousand experienced troops on board his junks, and made a 
successful descent upon the Great Loo Choo. The king, who ap- 
pears to have been a man of great courage, placed himself at the 
head of his troops, and disputed the ground with the Chinese ; but 
unfortunately he was killed ; his troops gave way ; and the victori- 
ous invaders, after pillaging and setting fire to the royal abode, and 
making five thousand slaves, returned to China. 

It is said that at this time the Inhabitants of Loo Choo had nei- 
ther letters nor characters, and that all classes of society, even the 
king himself, lived in the most simple manner. It does not, how- 
ever, appear that the people were entitled to the appellation of 
barbarians, which was given to them by the ambassador of Japan in 
China, nor that they merited the title of poor devils, which the 
word lieu-kieu implies in Japanese ; as they had fixed laws for 
marriages and interments, and paid great respect to their ancestors 
and other departed friends ; and they had other well regulated in- 
stitutions which fully relieve them from the charge of barbarism. 
Their country was not so poor nor so destitute of valuable produc- 
tion, or even of manufactures, but that Chinese merchants were 
glad to open a trade with it, and continue it through five dynasties 
which successively ruled in China after the conquest of Loo Choo 
notwithstanding the indifference of the emperors who, during that 
period, ceased to exact the tribute that had been made to their pre- 
decessors. It is not improbable, therefore, that this stigma, which 
ought probably to belong to Formosa — which, though a much lar- 
ger island, was then called Little Loo Choo — may have been at 
tached to the island we visited from the similarity of names. 

Chun-tien was said to be descended from the kings of Japan, 
but it is not known at what period his family settled in Loo Choo. 
Before he came to the throne, he was governor of the town of Po- 
tien. On his accession his title was disputed by a nobleman named 
Li-yong ; but he being defeated and killed, Chun-tien was acknowl- 
edged King of Loo Choo by the people. Having reigned fifty-one 
years, and bestowed many benefits upon his subjects, whose happi- 
ness was his principal care, he died at the age of seventy two. In 
this reign reading and writing are said to have been first introduced 
from Japan, the character being that of Y-rofa. 

Very little mention is made of the son and successor of Chun-tien, 
but the reign of his grandson Y-pen is marked by the occurrence of 
a famine and a plague, which nearly desolated the island ; and by 
his abdication in favour of any person whom the people might ap- 



1827.] and beering's strait. 423 

point to succeed him. The choice fell upon Ynt-sou, the gover- 
nor of a small town ; but the king, desirous of ascertaining wheth- 
er he was a competent person to succeed him, first made him prime 
minister ; and being at length satisfied that the choice of the people 
was judicious, he abdicated in his favour, reserving a very mode- 
rate provision for himself and family. Ynt-sou ascended the throne 
A. D. 1260, and reigned forty years. He is said to have been the 
first to levy taxes, and to have introduced useful regulations for the 
cultivation of the soil. In his reign Ta-tao, Ki-ki-ai, and other is- 
lands in the north-east and north-west came under the dominion of 
Loo Choo. This reign was also marked by an attempt of the Em- 
peror of China to renew his demand of tribute, which had not been 
made for so many generations that the Loo Chooans began to consid- 
er themselves absolved from the obligation. The Emperor of Chi- 
na however, determining not to relinquish the advantages which 
had been gained by his predecessor Yang-ti, equipped a fleet for 
the purpose of compelling payment ; but about this time China 
having suffered a serious defeat from the Japanese, and from the 
kingdoms of Tonquin and Cochin China, and lost 100,000 men in 
her expeditions against those places, disaffection spread throughout 
the troops, and the expedition returned without even having reached 
its destination. 

Ynt-sou was succeeded by his son Ta-tchin, who was followed by 
his son Ynt-see, two princes much esteemed for their wisdom and 
benevolence. Not so Yut-ching, a prince of avaricious and volup- 
tuous disposition, who ascended the throne of his father in 1314 ; 
during whose reign the state fell into considerable disorder. The 
governor of Keng-koaey-gin, revolted and declared himself King of 
Chanpe, the northern province of the island. The governor of Ta- 
li also revolted, and bacame king of the southern province Chan-nan, 
leaving Yut-ching to govern only the centre of the island, which 
was called Tchong-chan. Thus this island, not sixty miles in 
length, divided into three independent kingdoms. The greatest an- 
imosity prevailed between these three principalities, and long and 
bloody wars ensued. About sixty years after the country had been 
thus divided, Tsay-tou, a prince beloved by his people and esteem- 
ed for his valour, came to the throne of the middle province. It 
was in his reign that Hong-vou, the Emperor of China, renewed 
overtures of protection ; and the embassy which he sent to the court 
of Tsay-tou acquitted itself so creditably, that the offer was accept- 
ed. The kings of the other districts of Loo Choo were no sooner 
apprised of the conduct of Tsay-tou, than they also put themselves 
under the protection of China ; and thus Loo Choo once more be- 
came tributary to the Celestial Empire. 

The Emperor Hong-vou was so much pleased with this conduct 



424 voyage to the pacific [May, 

of the kings of Loo Choo, that he sent them large presents of iron, 
porcelain, and other articles which he knew to be scarce in their do- 
minions ; and also settled in the middle province thirty-six families 
from Fochien, who established themselves at a place called Kumi, 
a little to the nothward of Napa-kiang. These people introduced 
into Loo Choo the Chinese written character, and ceremonies in 
honour of Confucius. On the other hand, the kings of Loo Choo 
sent several youths to Pekin, among whom were the sons and broth- 
ers Tsay-tou, who were educated and brought up at the expense of 
the emperor. 

The best understanding now existed between the kings of Loo 
Choo and the court of China ; and while the emperor was receiv- 
ing ambassadors from Loo Choo, that country had the satisfaction 
of seeing several islands to the northward and southward of its own 
position added to its dominions. On the death of Tsay-tou, which 
happened in 1-396, his son Au-ning was installed king by the em- 
peror in the place of his father. He reinged ten years, and was 
succeeded by his son Is-tchao. The reigns of these two princ- 
es were not distinguished by any remarkable events; but that of 
their successor, Change-patche, will ever be remembered by the 
Loo Chooans from the advantageous union of the free provinces, 
for nearly a century had been agitated by a continued state of war- 
fare ; and from the estimation in which the king of the island was 
held by Suent-song, then emperor of China, who made him large 
presents of silver, and bestowed upon him the title of Chang, which 
has ever since been the patronymic of the royal family of Loo Choo. 

The three following reigns present no occurrences worthy of no- 
tice. In 1456, the Chang-tai-kieou ascended the throne amidst 
difficulties and disaffection. His ambitious brother disputed the el- 
evated rank he had obtained, and enlisted in his cause so powerful a 
body of the islanders, that the king was defeated, his palace burned, 
and his magazines reduced to ashes. In this state of affairs he so- 
licited the protection of the emperor of China, who readily assisted 
him ; and not only restored tranquility to the island by his interfer- 
ence, but caused the king to be remunerated for all his losses. 

The commerce of Loo Choo with China afterwards daily increas- 
ed ; and under the reign of this prince so great a trade was carried 
on between the two countries, that the provinces of Tche-kiang and 
Fochien were distressed by the quantity of silver and copper coin 
that was carried away to Loo Choo. The people even complained 
to the Emperor of the scarcity, who ordered that in future the trade 
between these two places should be confined within certain limits. 

After a short reign of seven years, Chang-tai-kieou was succeed- 
ed by his son Chang-te, a prince whose name was rendered odious 
by the acts of crueltv he committed, and who was so much detest- 



1827.] and beering's strait. 425 

ed, that after his death the people refused to acknowledge as king 
the person whom he had appointed to succeed him ; and elected in 
his stead Chan-y-ven, a nobleman of the island of Yo-pi-chan. 
Though the reign of this prince is distinguished in history only by 
the regulation of the number of persons who should accompany the 
ambassadors to Pekin, yet he is said to have been a great prince. 
His son, Chang-tching, was a minor at the death of his father, and 
his paternal uncle was chosen to be his protector. In this reign Loo 
Choo became a comparatively great commercial nation. Many 
vessels were sent to the Formosa, to the coasts of Bungo, Fionga, 
Satzuma, Corea, and other places. Her vessels became the carri- 
ers of Japanese produce to China, and vice versa ; and one of them 
even made the voyage to Malacca. 

By this extensive trade, and by being the entrepot between the 
two empires of China and Japan, Loo Choo increased in wealth 
and rose into notice ; especially as it was found convenient by both 
these two great nations to have a mediator on any differences aris- 
ing between them. The advantage thus derived by Loo Choo was 
particularly manifested on the occasion of a remonstrance on the 
part of China against robberies and piracies committed upon the 
shores of that country by a prodigious number of vessels manned by 
resolute and determined seamen, principally Japanese, who landed 
upon all parts of the coast, and spread consternation along the whole 
of the western shore of the yellow Sea, even down to Canton. The 
Emperor of China on this occasion sent ambassadors to Loo Choo ; 
and a representation was made to the Court of Japan of the numer- 
ous piracies committed in the dominions of the Emperor of. China 
by the subjects of that country ; and succeeded so far that the sove- 
reign of Japan gave up to the King of Loo Choo a number of ves- 
sels and slaves which had been captured ; but as none of these ma- 
rauding vessels had been fitted out by his command, and as they 
were the property of individuals over whom he had no control, it 
was out of his power to put a stop to the depredations. The Em- 
peror of China rewarded the King of Loo Choo for this important 
service by sending him large presents of silk, porcelain, and silver, 
and brass money ; and granted to his subjects very great privileges 
in their commercial transactions with China. 

The Japanese pirates, among which there were a great many ves- 
sels manned by Chinese, continued their depredations in spite of the 
efforts and remonstrances of the Emperor of China ; and latterly 
occasioned such alarm in that country, that the famous Tay-Cosa- 
ma, who was then secular ruler of Japan, determined to avail him- 
self of the panic, and premeditated an attack upon the coast of that 
mighty empire. It was necessary to the success of this bold enter- 
prise that the assault should be conducted with the utmost secrecy ; 

54 



426 voyage to the pacific [May, 

and Tay-Cosama, fearing that the frequent intercourse between 
China and Loo Choo,which country could not remain in ignorance of 
the preparations, might be the means of divulging his intentions to 
China, sent ambassadors to Chang-ning, who was then King of Loo 
Choo, haughtily forbidding him to pay tribute to China, and desir- 
ing him to acknowledge no other sovereign than that of Japan. It 
is said that he also sent similar notices to the governor of the Phi- 
lippines, to the King of Siam, and to the Europeans in India. 

Chang-ning, however, was not easily intimidated, and remained 
deaf to the menaces of the Emperor of Japan. He saw through the 
designs of Tay-Cosama ; and by means of a rich Chinese merchant, 
who happened to be at Napa-kiang at the time, he apprised Ouan- 
li, then Emperor of China, of his designs. Ouan-li immediately in- 
creased his army, fortified his coasts, and made every preparation 
for a vigorous defence against the invading army of Japan, whenev- 
er it might arrive. He also apprised Corea of the danger with 
which that state was threatened ; but the king, misled probably by 
the designing Emperor of Japan, and imagining the immense pre- 
parations making by that prince were intended for the invasion of 
China, neglected to strengthen his defences, and was at length sur- 
prised by the Japanese, who invaded his dominions. 

Chang-ning, notwithstanding the invasion with which he was also 
threatened, continued his tribute to China; and Ouan-li received 
his ambassadors with the greatest possible respect, and rewarded 
their sovereign for his fidelity. Some years after, in 1610, the Ja- 
panese renewed their menaces against Chang-ning, who, as on the 
former occasion, acquainted the Emperor of China with his situation, 
and implored assistance ; but China at that time was fully occupied 
with her own troubles, and unable to render him any service. In 
this state of things, a nobleman of Loo Choo, named King-tchang, 
taking advantage of the situation of Chang-ning, revolted, and retir- 
ed to Satzuma, where he fitted out an expedition consisting of 3000 
Japanese, and took Chang-ning prisoner, killed his father, Tching- 
hoey, because he would not acknowledge his dependency to Japan, 
pillaged the royal palace, and carried away the king prisoner to 
Satzuma. 

The conduct of the King of Loo Choo throughout all these dis- 
turbances is said to have been so magnanimous and spirited, that it 
even appeased King-tchang, and prepossessed the Japanese so much 
in his favour, that after two years' captivity they restored him to his 
throne with honour. He was scarcely reinstated, when, always 
faithful to China, notwithstanding the danger he had escaped, and 
the helpless condition of the emperor, he sent ambassadors to that 
country to declare his submission as heretofore ; and to apprise the 
emperor of an attack which was intended to be made on Formosa by 



1827.] and beering's strait. 427 

the Japanese, who had conceived the project of reinstating them- 
selves in that country, and fortifying their settlements there. 

Chang-ning left no son to succeed him ; and Chang-yong, a de- 
scendant of the brother of his predecessor, was installed by the Em- 
peror of China in his stead. This prince, notwithstanding the un- 
settled state of affairs, and the danger he had to apprehend from 
Japan, paid the usual tribute to China, and introduced into his coun- 
try from thence the manufacture of delft-ware, and an inferior kind 
of porcelain. 

About eighty years afterwards, A. D. 1643, the famous revolu- 
tion occurred in China, which fixed the Tartar dynasty on the throne 
of that empire ; and Change-tche, who at that time was King of 
Loo Choo, sent ambassadors to pay homage to the new sovereign ; 
when King Chang-tche received a sign manual from the Tartar 
monarch, directing that Loo Choo should not pay tribute oftener 
than once in two years, and that the number of the embassy should 
not exceed a hundred and fifty persons. 

In 1663 the great Emperor Kang-hi succeeded to the throne of 
China, and received the tribute of Chang-tche on the occasion. 
This magnanimous prince sent large presents of his own to the King 
of Loo Choo, in addition to some of an equally superb quality which 
were intended for that country by his father. His ambassadors pas- 
sed over to Loo Choo, and according to custom confirmed the king 
in his sovereignty, the ceremony on this occasion being distinguish- 
ed by additional grandeur and solemnity. 

Kang-hi probably foreseeing the advantages to be derived from 
an alliance with Loo Choo, which had so long continued faithful to 
the empire of China, turned his attention to the improvement of the 
country with great earnestness and perseverance. He built a pal- 
ace there in honour of Confuciua, and a college for the instruction 
of youth in the use of the Chinese character, and established exam- 
inations for different branches of literature. Several natives of Loo 
Choo were sent to Pekin, and educated at the expense of the em- 
peror, among whom was the king's son. The tribute was better 
adapted to the means of the people ; and those articles only, which 
were either the produce of the soil, or the manufactures of the coun- 
try, were in future to be sent to Pekin for this purpose. In short 
Kang-hi lost no opportunity of gaining the friendship and esteem of 
his subjects. On the occasion of great distress in Loo Choo, which 
occurred in 1708, when the palace of the king was burned, and 
hurricanes did incalculable mischief, and when the people were dying 
daily with contagious diseases, Kang-hi used every endeavour to 
mitigate their distress, and, by his humanity and generosity sercued 
to himself the lasting gratitude of the inhabitants of Loo Choo, 
In 1719 he sent Supao-koang, a learned physician, to make him- 



428 voyage to the pacific [May, 

self acquainted with the nature and productions of the island, and to 
inform himself of every particular concerning the government and the 
people. Since that period nothing is mentioned of Loo Choo in 
Chinese history, beyond the periodical payment of the tribute, and 
the arrival of ambassadors from that country at the court of Pekin. 

In 1771 the well known Count Benyowsky touched at an island 
belonging to Loo Choo, named Usmay Liagon, where he found 
that almost all the inhabitants had been converted to Christianity 
by a Jesuit missionary. If we can credit his statement, he was treat- 
ed by the natives with the greatest hospitality and unreserve. 
Contrary to the custom of the eastern Asiatic nations, these people 
brought their daughters to the count and his associates, and pressed 
them to select wives from among them. In short, the conduct of 
the inhabitants is described as being so engaging, that some of Ben- 
yowsky's crew determined to remain with them, and were actually 
left behind when the count put to sea. And the natives, on the 
other hand are asserted to have been so attached to their visitors, 
that they made them promise to return and form a settlement 
among them, and signed a treaty of friendship with the count. 
This veracious traveller found muskets with matchlocks in use with 
these people ; and to add to their means of defence, on his depar- 
ture he presented them with 80 muskets of his own, 600 swords, 
and 600 pikes, besides 20 barrels of powder and 10 barrels of mus- 
ket balls. 

Loo Choo in 1796 was visited by Captain Broughton, and in 
1803 by the ship Frederick of Calcutta, which made an unsuccess- 
ful effort to dispose of her cargo. The inhabitants on both these 
occasions were as usual, extremely civil and polite, but resisted 
every attempt at opening a commerce. The next mention of this 
interesting island is in the well known publications of Captain Basil 
Hall, and Mr. M'Cleod, the surgeon of the Alceste. 

Thus Loo Choo, like almost every other nation, has been distur- 
bed by civil wars, and the state has been endangered by foreign in- 
vasion : her towns have been plundered, her palaces consumed, and 
her citizens carried into captivity. Situated between the empires 
of China and Japan, she has been mixed up with their quarrels, 
and made subservient to the interests of both ; at one time suffering 
all the miseries of invasion, and at another acting as a mediator. 
Allied by preference to China, and by fear and necessity, from her 
proximity, to Japan, she is obliged to avoid jealousy, to pay tribute 
to both, though that to the latter country is said to be furnished by 
the merchants who are most interested in the trade to that em- 
pire. Their conduct to strangers who have touched at their ports 
has ever been uniformly polite and hospitable. But they would 
rather be exempt from such friendly visits : and though extremely 



1827.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 429 

desirous of obtaining European manufactures, particularly cloth, ho- 
siery, and cutlery, they would Oppose any open attempt to introduce 
them. The most likely means of esiabUslring a communication with 
them would be through Chinese merchants at Canton, who might 
be persuaded to send goods there in their own names, and under 
the charge of their own countrymen. 

Whale-ships have occasionally touched at Loo Choo when dis- 
tressed for provisions. It is satisfactory to find that these interviews 
have been conducted without giving offence to the natives. It is to 
be hoped that any vessel which may hereafter be under the neces- 
sity of putting in there will preserve the same conduct, and give the 
inhabitants no cause to regret having extended their hospitality to 
foreigners. 

I have perhaps entered more minutely upon several questions 
connected with Loo Choo than may be considered necessary, after 
what has already been given to the public ; but it appeared desi- 
rable to remove doubts upon several points of interest, which could 
not perhaps be effectually accomplished without combining my re- 
marks with a short notice of the history of the country. 



430 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [June, 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Passage from Loo Choo eastward — Arrive at Port Lloyd in the Yslas del Azobispo — 
Description of those Islands — Passage to Kamaschatka — Arrival at Petropaulsky 
— Notice of that Place — Departure — Pass Beering's Strait — Enter Kotzebue 
Sound — Prosecute the Voyage to the Northward — Stopped by the Ice — Return 
to the Southward — Discover Port Clarence and Grantley Harbour — Description 
of these Harbours — Return to Kotzebue Sound — Ship strikes upon a Shoal. 

On the 25th of May we took our departure from Loo Choo, and 
steered to the eastward in search of some islands which were doubt- 
fully placed in the charts. On the third day we arrived within a 
few miles of the situation of Amsterdam Island without seeing any 
land, and passed it to the northward, as near as the wind would 
permit. The weather was very unfavourable for discovery, being 
thick and rainy, or misty, with very variable winds. On the third 
of June we regretted exceedingly not having clear weather, as the 
appearance of plover, sandlings, flocks of shear-waters, and several 
petrel and albatrosses, created a belief that we were near some is- 
land. 

Three days afterwards we were upon the spot where the Island of 
Disappointment is placed on the latest charts. The weather was 
tolerably clear, but no land could be seen ; and as we were so near 
the situation of a group of islands which, if in existence, would oc- 
cupy several days in examining, I did not wait to search for Disap- 
pointment Island, which is said to be very small. 1 have since 
been informed that this island, which in all probability is the same 
as the island of Rosario, was seen by a whaler, who, not being able 
to find it a second time, bestowed upon it the name of Invisible Is- 
land. It is said to lie ninety miles N. W. from Port Lloyd, a place 
which I shall presently notice. 

The next evening we reached the situation of the Bonin Islands 
in Arrowsmith's chart, and the following morning made sail as usual 
without seeing any land. We were almost on the point of declar- 
ing them invisible also, when after having stood to the eastward a 
few hours, we had the satisfaction to descry several islands exten- 
ding in a north and south direction as far as the eye could discern. 



1827.] and bfering's strait. 431 

They all appeared to be small, yet they were high and very remar- 
kable ; particularly one near the centre, which I named after Cap- 
tain Kater, V. P. R. S. &c. 

As the islands to the southward appeared to be the largest I pro- 
posed to examine them first: and finding they were fertile, and 
likely to afford good anchorage, Lieutenant Belcher was sent on shore 
with a boat to search for a harbour. In the evening he returned 
with a favourable report, and with a supply of fourteen large green 
turtle. 

We stood off and on for the night with very thick weather ; and 
at daylight, when by our reckoning the ship should have been sev- 
en miles from the land, we unexpectedly saw the fog, about a fifth 
of a mile distant, and had but just room to clear them by going about. 
The depth of the water at that time was sixty fathoms ; so that had 
it been blowing strong and necessary to anchor, there would have 
been but an indifferent prospect of holding on any length of time. 
The great depth of water, and the strong currents which set be- 
tween the islands must make the navigation near them hazardous 
during thick weather. On the evening preceding this unexpected 
event, we found so strong a current setting to the south-west, to 
windward, that, though the ship was lying to, it was necessary fre- 
quently to bear away, to prevent being drifted upon the land. 

When the fog cleared away on the 9th, we discovered a distant 
cluster of islands bearing S. 5° E. true : I therefore declined an- 
choring in the bay which Lieutenant Belcher had examined the 
preceding evening, in the hope of being able to examine the newly 
discovered islands ; but, finding both current and wind against us, 
and that the ship could scarcely gain ground in that direction — as 
there was no time to be lost, I returned to those first discovered. 
In running along-shore we observed an opening, which, appearing 
to afford better security than the before-mentioned bay, the master 
was sent to explore ; and returned with the welcome intelligence of 
having found a secure harbour, in which the ship might remain with 
all winds. 

We were a little surprised, when we came back, to find two 
strangers in the boat, for we had no idea that these islands had been 
recently visited, much less that there were any residents upon them ; 
and we concluded that some unfortunate vessel had been cast away 
upon the island. They proved to be part of the crew of a whale- 
ship belonging to London, named the William. This ship, which 
had once belonged to his majesty's service, had been anchored in 
the harbour in deep water, and in rather an exposed situation (the 
port then not being well known,) and had part of her cargo upon 
deck, when a violent gust of wind from the land drove her from her 
anchors, and she struck upon a rock in a small bay close to the en- 



432 voyage to the pacific [Jane, 

trance, where in a short time she went to pieces. All the crew es- 
caped, and established themselves on shore as well as they could, 
and immediately commenced building a vessel from the wreck of 
the ship,in which they intended to proceed to Manilla ; but before she 
was completed, another whaler, the Timor, arrived, and carried them 
all away except our two visiters, who remained behind at their own 
request. They had been several months upon the island, during 
which time they had not shaved or paid any attention to their dress, 
and were very odd-looking beings. The master, Thomas Younger, 
had unfortunately been killed by the fall of a tree fifteen days pre- 
vious to the loss of the ship, and was buried in a sandy bay on the 
eastern side of the harbour. 

We entered the port and came to an anchor in the upper part of 
it in eighteen fathoms, almost land-locked. This harbour is situat- 
ed in the largest island of the cluster, and has its entrance conspicu- 
ously marked by a bold high promontory on the southern side, and 
a tall quion-shaped rock on the other. It is nearly surrounded by 
hills, and the plan of it upon paper suggests the idea of its being an 
extinguished crater. Almost every valley has a stream of water, 
and the mountains are clothed with trees, among which the areca 
oleraceaand fan-palms are conspicuous. There are several sandy 
bays, in which green turtle are sometimes so numerous that they 
quite hide the colour of the shore. The sea yields an abundance 
offish ; the rocks and caverns are the resort of crayfish and other 
shellfish ; and the shores are the refuge of snipes, plovers, and wild 
pigeons. At the upper part of the port there is a small basin, form- 
ed by coral reefs, conveniently adapted for heaving a ship down ; 
and on the whole it is a most desirable place of resort for a whale- 
ship. By a board nailed against a tree, it appeared that the port 
had been entered in September, 1825, by an English ship named 
the Supply, which I believe to be the first authenticated visit made 
to the place. 

Taking possession of uninhabited islands is now a mere matter of 
form ; still I could not allow so fair an opportunity to escape, and 
declared them to be the property of the British government by nail- 
ing a sheet of'copper to a tree, with the necessary particulars en- 
graved upon it. As the harbour had no name, I called it Port Lloyd, 
out of regard to the late Bishop of Oxford. The island in which it 
is situated I named after Sir Robeit Peel, His Majesty's Secretary 
of State for the Home Department. 

As we rowed on shore towards the basin, which, in consequence 
of there being ten fathoms water all over it, was named Ten Fath- 
om Hole, we were surrounded by sharks so daring and voracious 
that they bit at the oars and the boat's rudder, and though wounded 
with the boat-hook returned several times to the attack. At the 



1827.] and beering's strait. 433 

upper end of Ten Fathom Hole there were a great many green tur- 
tle ; and the boat's crew were sent to turn some of them for our sea- 
stock. The sharks, to the number of forty at least, as soon as they 
observed these animals in confusion, rushed in amongst them, and 
to the great danger of our people, endeavoured to seize them by the 
fins, several of which we noticed to have been bitten off. The tur- 
tle weighed from three to four hundred-weight each, and were so 
inactive that, had there been a sufficient number of men, the whole 
shoal might have been turned. 

Wittrein and his companion, the men whom w r e found upon the 
island, were living on the south side of the harbour, in a house built 
from the planks of the William, upon a substantial foundation of 
copper bolts, procured from the wreck of the ship by burning the 
timbers. They had a number of fine fat hogs, a well stocked pig- 
eon-house, and several gardens, in which there were growing pump- 
kins, water-melons, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and fricoli beans ; and 
they had planted forty cocoa-nuts in other parts of the bay. In 
such an establishment Wittrein found himself very comfortable, and 
contemplated getting a w T ife from the Sandwich Islands ; but I am 
sorry to find that he soon relinquished the idea, and that there is 
now no person to take care of the garden, which by due manage- 
ment might have become extremely useful to whale-ships, the crews 
of which are often afflicted with the scurvy by their arrival at this 
part of their voyage. The pigs, I have since learned, have become 
wild and numerous, and will in a short time destroy all the roots, 
if not the cabbage-trees, which at the time of our visit were in 
abundance, and, besides being a delicate vegetable, were no doubt 
an excellent antiscorbutic. 

We learned from Wittrein, who had resided eight months upon 
the island, that in the January of 1826 it had been visited by a tre- 
mendous storm, and an earthquake which shook the island so vio- 
lently, and the water at the same time rose so high, that he and his 
companion, thinking the island about to be swallowed up by the sea, 
fled to the hills for safety. This gale, which resembled the typh- 
oons in the China sea, began at the north and went round the com- 
pass by the westward, blowing all the while with great violence, and 
tearing up trees by the roots : it destroyed the schooner which the 
crew of the William had begun to build, and washed the cargo of 
the ship, which since her wreck had been floating about the bay, up 
into the country. By the appearance of some of the casks, the wa- 
ter must have risen twelve feet above the usual level.* 

We were informed that during the winter there is much bad 
weather from the north and north-west ; but as summer approaches 

* The seamen affirmed that it rose twenty. 

55 



434 VOYAGE TO THE PACFPIC [June, 

these winds abate, and are succeeded by others from the southward 
and south-east-ward, which prevail throughout that season, and 
are generally attended with fine weather, with the exception of fogs 
which are very prevalent. Shocks of earthquakes are frequently 
felt during the winter ; and Wittrein and his companion repeatedly 
observed smoke issuing from the summits of the hills on the island to 
the northward. Peel Island, in which we anchored, is entirely vol- 
canic, and there is every appearance of the others to the northward 
being of the same formation. They have deep water all round 
them, and ships must not allow their safety to depend upon the 
lead, for although bottom may be gained at great depths between 
some of the islands, yet that is not the case in other directions. 

We noticed basaltic columns in several parts of Port Lloyd, and 
in one place Mr. Collie observed them divided into short lengths as 
at £ the Giant's Causeway ; he also remarked at the head of the bay 
in the bed of a small river, from which we filled our water casks, 
a sort of tessellated pavement, composed of upright angular columns, 
placed side by side, each about an inch in diameter, and separated 
by horizontal fissures. It was the lower part of the Giant's Cause- 
way in miniature. Many of the rocks consisted of tufFaceous ba- 
salt of a grayish or greenish hue, frequently traversed by veins of 
petrosilex ; and contained numerous nodules of chalcedony or of 
cornelian, and psalma ? The zeolites are not wanting ; and the 
stilbite, in the lamellar foliated form, is abundant. Olivine and 
hornblende are also common. The drusses were often found con- 
taining a watery substance, which had an astringent taste not un- 
like alum, but I did not succeed in collecting any of it. 

The coral animals have raised ledges and reefs of coral round 
almost all the bays, and have filled up the northern part of the 
harbor, with the exception of Ten Fathom Hole, which appears to 
be kept open by streams of water running into it ; for it was ob- 
served here, that the only accessible part of the beach was at the 
mouths of these streams. 

I have before observed, that the hills about our anchorage were 
wooded from the water's edge nearly to their summit. There were 
found among these trees, besides the cabbage and fan-palms, the 
tamanu of Otaheite, the pandanus odoratissimus, and, a species of 
purau ; also some species of laurus, of urtica, the terminalia, dodo- 
naea viscosa, eleocarpus serratis, &c. We collected some of the 
wood for building boats, and found it answer very well for knees, 
timbers, &ic. 

We saw no wild animals of the mammalia class except the vam- 
pire bat, which was very tame. Some measured three feet across 
the wings when fully extended, and were eight or nine inches in 
length in the body. We frequently saw them flying ; but they 



1827.] and beering's strait. 435 

were more fond of climbing about the trees, and hanging by their 
hind claw, which appears to be their natural position when feeding. 
Some were observed with their young at their breast, concealed by 
the wide membrane of their wing. The tongue of this animal is 
unusually large, and furnished with fleshy papillae on the upper 
surface. Here we also found another species of vespertilio. 

Of birds we saw some handsome brown herons with white crests, 
plovers, rails, snipes, wood-pigeons, and the common black crow; a 
small bird resembling a canary, and a grossbeak. They were very 
tame, and until alarmed at the noise of a gun, suffered themselves 
to be approached. 

The sea abounded in fish, some of which were very beautiful in 
colour. We noticed the green fish mentioned at Gambier Island, 
and a gold-coloured fish of the same genus, both extremely splen- 
did in their appearance. A dentex resembling our carp, a small 
rayfish, and some large eels, one of which weighed twenty pounds, 
were caught in the fresh water. We took forty four turtles on 
board for sea stock, besides consuming two a day while we remain- 
ed in port, weighing each about three hundred weight. 

The weather during our stay was fine, but oppressively warm ; 
and though we had no rain, the atmosphere was generally saturated 
with moisture. There was a thick fog to windward of the islands 
almost the whole of the time ; but it dispersed on its passage over 
the land, and the lee side was generally clear. 

While our operations at the port were in progress, Lieutenant 
Belcher circumnavigated Peel's Island in the cutter, and discover- 
ed a large bay at the southeast angle of the island, which afforded 
very secure anchorage from all winds except the south-east ; as this 
is the prevalent wind during the summer, it is not advisable to an- 
chor in that season. I named it Fitton Bay, in compliment to Dr. 
Fitton, late president of the Geological Society. Mr. Elson also 
was employed outside of the harbour, and discovered! some sunken 
rocks to the southward of the entrance to the port, on which ac- 
count ships should not close the land in that direction so as to shut 
in two paps at the north-east angle of Port Lloyd with the south 
bluff of the harbour. With these objects open there is no danger. 

On the 15th of June, we put to sea from Port Lloyd ; and find- 
ing the wind still from the southward, and that we could not reach 
the islands in that direction without much loss of time, I bore away 
to ascertain the northern limit of the group. We ran along the 
western shore, and at noon on the 16th observed the meridian alti- 
tude off the northernmost islet. The group consists of three clus- 
ters of islands Tying nearly N. by E. and extending from the fat. 
of 27° 44' 35'- N. to 26° 30' N. and beyond, but that was the ut- 
most Mmit of our view to the southward. The northern cluster con- 



436 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Ju7W : 

sists of small islands and pointed rocks, and has much broken 
ground about it, which renders caution necessary in approaching it. 
1 distinguished it by the name of Parry's Group, in compliment to 
the late hydrographer, under whose command I had the pleasure to 
serve on the northern expedition. The middle cluster consists of 
three islands, of which Peel's Island, four miles and a fifth in length 
is the largest. This group is nine miles and a quarter in length 
and is divided by two channels so narrow that they can only be seen 
when abreast of them. Neither of them are navigable by shipping, 
the northern, on account of rocks which render it impassable even 
by boats, and the other on account of rapid tides and eddies, which, 
as there is no anchoring ground, would most likely drift a ship upon 
the rocks. The northern island I named Stapleton, and the cen- 
tre Buckland, in compliment to the Professor of Geology at Ox- 
ford. At the south-west angle of Buckland Island there is a sandy 
bay, in which ships will find good anchorage ; but they must be 
careful in bringing up to avoid being carried out of soundings by the 
current. I named it Walker's Bay, after Mr. Walker of the Hy- 
drographical Office. The southern cluster is evidently that in 
which a whale ship commanded by Mr. Coffin anchored in 1823, 
who was the first to communicate its position to this country, and 
who bestowed his own name upon the port. As the cluster was, 
however, left without any distinguishing appellation, I named it after 
Francis Baily, Esq. late President of the Astronomical Society. 

These clusters of islands correspond so well with a group named 
Yslas del Arzobispo in a work published many years ago in Manil- 
la, entitled Navigation Especulativa y Practica, that I have re- 
tained the name, in addition to that of Bonin Islands ; as it is ex- 
tremely doubtful, from the Japanese accounts of Bonin-sima, wheth- 
er there are not other islands in the vicinity, to which the latter 
name is not more applicable. In these accounts, published by M. ' 
Klaproth in his Memoire sur la Chine, and by M. Abel Remusat 
in the Journal des Savans for September, 1817, it is said that the 
islands of Bonin-sima, or Mou-nin-sima, consist of eighty-nine islands 
of which two are large, four are of a midling size, four small and the 
remainder of the group consists of rocks. The two large islands 
are there said to be inhabited, and in the Japanese chart, published 
in the Journal des Savans, contain several villages and temples. 
They are stated to be extremely fertile, to produce leguminous veg- 
etables and all kinds of grain, besides a great abundance of pastu- 
rage and sugar-canes, and the plains to afford an agreeable retreat to 
man ; that there are lofty palm-trees, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits ; 
sandal wood, camphor, and other precious trees. 

Setting aside the geographical inaccuracy of the chart, which the 
Japanese might not know how to avoid, and the dissagreement of 



1827.] and beering's strait. 43' 

distances and proportions, their description is so very unlike any 
thing that we found in these islands, that if the Japanese are at 
all to be credited they cannot be the same ; and if they are not to 
be believed, it may be doubted whether Bonin-sima is not an imag- 
inary island. 

The group which we visited had neither villages, temples, nor 
any remains whatever ; and it was quite evident that they had nev- 
er been resided upon. There were no cocoa-nut trees, no sugar 
canes, no leguminous vegetables, nor any plains for the cultivation 
of grain, the land being very steep in every part, and overgrown 
with tall trees. Neither in number, size, or direction will the is- 
lands at all coincide : and under such dissimilarities, it may reason- 
ably be inquired whether it is possible for these places to be the 
same. If we compare the number, size, and shape of the islands, 
or direction of the group, there is a yet wider discrepancy ; ports 
are placed in the Japanese map where none exist in these ; rocks 
are marked to the full" number, which seem only to create useless 
alarm to the navigator ; and throughout there is a neglect of the 
cardinal points. I have therefore, on this ground, presumed to 
doubt the propriety of the name of Bonin-sima being attached to 
these islands. 

Were the situation of Bonin-sima dependent solely upon the ac- 
count furnished by Kasmpfer, it might safely be identified with the 
group of Yslas del Arzo-bispo ; but the recent notice of that isl- 
and by the Japanese authors is so very explicit, that great doubt 
upon the subject is thereby created. Kaempfer's account stands 
thus; — In 1675 a Japanese junk was driven out of her course by 
strong winds, and wrecked upon an island three hundred miles to 
the eastward ofFatsissio. The island abounded in arrack-trees 
(areca?) and in enormous crabs (turtle?), which were from four to 
six feet in length ; and was named Bunesima, in consequence of its 
being uninhabited. In this statement the distance, the areca-trees, 
the turtle, and the island being unoccupied, agree very well with 
the description of the island I have given above ? and it is curious 
that Wittrein, whom we found upon the island, declared he had 
seen the wreck of a vessel in which the planks were put together in 
a manner similar to that which was noticed by Lientenant Wain- 
wright in the junk at Loo Choo. 

It is remarkable that this group should have escaped the observa- 
tion of Gore, Perouse, Krusenstern, and several others, whose ves- 
sels passed to the northward and southward of its position. In the 
journals of the above-mentioned navigators we find that when in the 
vicinity of these islands they were visited by land birds ; but they 
never saw land, the three small islands of Los Volcanos ex- 
cepted, which may be considered the last of the group. The con- 



438 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [JwiC, 

sequence of their having thus escaped notice was, that all the islands, 
except the three last-mentioned, were expunged from the charts ; 
and it was not until 1823 that they re-appeared on Arrowsmith'.s 
map, on the authority of M. Abel Remusat. 

Near these islands we found strong currents, running principally 
to the northward ; but none of them equalled in strength that which 
is said by the Japanese to exist between Bonin-Sima and Fatsissio. 
which indeed was so rapid that it obtained the name of Kourosi-ga- 
wa, or Current of the black Gulf;* nor did their directions accord 
as the kou-rosi-gawa is said to set from east to west. At partic- 
ular periods, perhaps, these currents may be greater than we 
found them, and may also run to the westward, but they are 
certainly not constant. To the southward of Jesso, Captain Brough- 
ton experienced a set in the opposite direction — that is, from west to 
east, and so did Admiral Krusenstern. With us, as has been men- 
tioned before, the set was to the northward. 

June 16th. I had spent as much time in low latitudes, fixing the 
positions of all these islands, as was consistent with my orders, and 
it became necessary to make the best of our way to the northward ; 
which we did, in the hope of being more successful in our search 
for the land expedition than we were the preceding year. At first 
we stood well to the eastward, in order to get nearly into the me- 
ridian of Petropaulski, that we might not be inconvenienced by 
easterly winds, which appear to be prevalent in these seas in the 
summer time ; and having attained our object, directed the course 
for that port. 

Our passage between corresponding latitudes was very similar to 
that of the preceding year. Between the parallels of 30° and 
35° we experienced light and variable winds, and 39° of latitude 
took a southerly wind, which continued with us nearly all the way. 
We entered the region of fog nearly in the same latitude as be- 
fore, and did not lose it until the day before we made the land, 
when, as before, it was dispersed by strong winds off the coast. 
The currents were similar to those of the preceding year ; but 
when near the Kurile Islands we were impeded by a strong south- 
erly current from the Sea of Okotsk. About this time we noticed 
so material a change in the colour of the sea that we were induced 
to try for soundings, but without gaining the bottom. Captain 
Gierke off the same place observed a similar change, and also 
tried for soundings without success. It is probable that the outset 
from the Sea of Okotsk, the shores of which are fiat and muddy, 
may bring down a quantity of that substance, and occasion the al- 
teration. 

As we had very little to interest us in this passage, beyond that 

:i Description d'un Crouppe d'lles peu connu, par M. Remusat. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 439 

which always attends a material change of climate, we watched 
the birds which flew around us, and found that the tropic birds de- 
serted us in 35° N. The brown albatross and shearwaters fell off 
in 40°. N. In 41° we saw the wandering albatross and black di- 
vers ; some petrel in 45° ; puffins, fulmar petrels, and gannets in 
49°, and as we approached Kamschatka, lummes, dovekies, and 
small tern. About the latitude of 42° we saw many whales, but 
they did not accompany us far. We observed driftwood occasion- 
ally, but it was not so plentiful as in the preceding year. 

On the 2d of July we made the snowy mountains of Kamschat- 
ka, but did not reach the Bay of Awatska before the evening of 
the next day, when, after experiencing the difficulties which al- 
most always attend the entry and egress of the port, we came to 
an anchor off the town of Petropaulski nearly in the same situa- 
tion as before. 

We found lying in the inner harbour the Okotsk Packet, a brig 
of 200 tons, commanded by a Russian sub-lieutenant, on the point 
of sailing with the mail for St. Petersburg!), and availed ourselves 
of the favourable opportunity of transmitting despatches and pri- 
vate letters by. her. I received some official letters which had been 
too late for the ship the preceding year ; but neither in them nor 
in the Petersburgh Gazette, which finds its way occasionally to 
Kamschatka, was there intelligence to influence our proceedings, 
and we consequently began to refit the ship for her northern cruize. 
While this duty was in progress, we were also employed sounding 
and surveying the capacious bay and the harbours of Tareinski, Ra- 
kovya, and Petropaulski, the plans of those places which had been 
constructed by Captain King being by no means complete. 

Before the ship was at an anchor we received from the governor, 
Captain Stankitski, a very acceptable present of some new potatoes, 
fresh butter, curds, and spring water — a mark of attention and po- 
liteness for which we were very thankful. On landing I had the 
pleasure to find all the colony in good health, but a little chagrined 
to learn the ship was not one of the periodical vessels from St. Pe- 
tersburgh. As these vessels bring out every kind of supply for the 
inhabitants, they are most anxiously looked for ; and if they are de- 
tained they occasion great inconvenience. 

We endeavoured to supply some of the deficiences of the place 
by presents of flour, rice, tea, and bottled porter, and three large 
turtle, with some water-melons. Both the last-mentioned were 
great curiosities, as they had never been brought to the place before, 
or indeed seen by any of the inhabitants, except those in the gov- 
erment service. Much curiosity was consequently excited when 
the turtle were landed ; and very few would at first believe such 
forbidding animals were intended to be eaten. As no person knew 



440 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [July ', 

how to dress them, I sent my cook on shore, and they were soon 
converted into an excellent soup, some of which was sent round to 
each of the respectable inhabitants of the place ; but, as may be im- 
agined, after having brought the animals so far, we were mortified 
at hearing several persons declare their preference for their own 
dishes made of seals' flesh. These turtle were the last of the sup- 
ply we had taken on board at Port Lloyd, three having died upon 
the passage, and the ship's company having continued to consume 
two every day, which on an average was about five pounds a man. 
This lasted for about three weeks, during which time we saved half 
the usual allowance of provisions. 

The season at Petropaulski was more backward than the preced- 
ing year ; and though it was the beginning of July, the snow lay 
deep upon some parts of the shore, and the inhabitants were glad 
to keep on their fur dresses. 

The little town, which has been repeatedly described since King's 
visit, has been removed from the spit of land which forms the har- 
bour, to a valley at the back of it, where there are several rows of 
substantial log-houses, comfortably fitted up inside, and warmed 
with large ovens in the centre, furnished with pipes for the convey- 
ance of hot air. Glass for windows has partly superseded the lami- 
nae of talc, before used for that purpose. Neat wooden bridges have 
been thrown over the ravines which intersect the town, and a new 
church has been built. A guard-house and several field-pieces com- 
mand the landing ; and a little to the northward there are magazines 
for powder and stores. Among other buildings in the town there is 
a hospital and a school. The yourts and balagans of which Cap- 
tain King speaks are now only used as store-houses for fish. 

The greater part of the houses are furnished with gardens ; but, 
being badly attended to, they produce very little. • That attached 
to the government-house was in better order, and was planted with 
peas, beans, cabbages, lettuces, potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, and 
a few currant-trees which were blighted ; barley and a small quan- 
tity of wheat were also growing in its vicinity. Some new houses 
were erecting in the town in expectation of the arrival of some ex- 
iles from St. Petersburgh, as it was understood that several persons 
concerned in the conspiracy against the emperor were to be banish- 
ed to this place. The town, upon the whole, was much neater 
than I expected to find it ; and I by no means agree with Captain 
Cochrane, that it is a contemptable place, and a picture of misery 
and wretchedness. Considering the number of years it has been 
colonized, and that it is part of the Russian Empire, it ought cer- 
tainly to have become of much more importance ; but it does not 
differ so materially, from the accounts of it that have been publish- 
ed, as to create disappointment on visiting the place, and it appear- 



1827.] and beering's strait. 441 

ed to me that nothiiig is promised in those accounts which the place 
itself does not afford. 

It was with much pleasure we noticed in the governor's garden the 
monument of our departed countryman Captain Clerke, which for 
better preservation had been removed from its former position by the 
late governor. It was on one side of a broad gravel walk, at the 
end of an avenue of trees. On the other side of the walk, there was 
a monument to the memory of the celebrated Beering. The former 
it may be recollected, was erected by the officers of Captain Krusen- 
stern's ship; and the latter had been purposely sent from St. Peters- 
burg. This mark of respect from the Russians toward our departed 
countryman calls forth our warmest gratitude, and must strengthen 
the good understanding which exists and is daily increasing between 
the officers of their service and our own. The monument will ever 
be regarded as one of the greatest interest, as it marks the places of 
interment of the companions of the celebrated Cook and Beering, 
and records the generosity of the much-lamented Perouse, who 
placed a copper plate over the grave of our departed country- 
man Captain Clerke; and of the celebrated Admiral Krusenstern, 
who erected the monument, and affixed a tablet upon it to the 
memory of the Abbe de la Croyere. Such eminent names, thus 
combined, create a regret that the materials on which they are en- 
graved are not as imperishable as the memory of the men themselves. 

Since Admiral Krusenstern visited Kamschatka, several altera- 
tions have been made, probably in consequence of the suggestions 
in his publication. The seat of government is .now fixed at Petro- 
paulski, the town is considerably improved, and the inhabitants are 
better supplied than formerly. Still much remains to be accom- 
plished before Petropaulski can be of consequence in any way, 
except in affording an excellent asylum for vessels. In this respect 
it is almost unequalled, being very secure, and admirably adapted to 
the purpose of any vessel requiring repair ; but for this she will have 
to depend entirely upon her own resources, as their is nothing to 
be had in the country but fish, wood, water, and fresh beef. 

The population of the town at the beginning of the winter of 
1826 was not more than three hundred and eighty-five persons, 
exclusive of the government establishment ; the occupation of the 
people consists principally in curing fish and providing for a long 
winter, during which, with the exception of those persons who go 
into the interior for furs, there is very little to occupy the inhabitants. 

There are no manufactures in the country, nor any establishments 
which require notice. The inhabitants have an idea that the climate 
is to cold to produce crops of wheat and other grain, and neglect 
almost entirely the cultivation of the soil. The consequence of this 
is, that they occasionally suffer very much from scurvy, and are 
56 



442 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Jllty ', 

dependent upon the supplies which are sent from St. Petersburgh 
every second year for all their farinaceous food; and if these vessels 
are lost the greatest distress ensues. Many attempts have been made 
to persuade them to attend to agriculture ; rewards have been offered 
by the government for the finest productions ; and seeds are distrib- 
uted to the people every spring. In the autumn there is a fair at 
which those persons who have received seeds are required to attend, 
and to bring with them specimens of the fruit of their labour. The 
persons who are most deserving then receive rewards, and the day 
finishes with a feast and a dance. In spite of these encouragements, 
the gardens are very little attended to. Hay, though it is got in at 
the proper season, is in such inadequate proportion to the wants 
of the cattle, that were it not for wild garlic they would famish before 
the spring vegetation commences. The flavour that is communi- 
cated to the milk and butter by the use of this herbage, appears to 
be so familiar to the inhabitants that they find nothing unpleasant 
in it ; but it is very much the reverse with strangers. Every fam- 
ily has one or two cows, of which great care is taken during the 
winter, and, strictly speaking, some of the inhabitants live under 
the same roof with their animals, with no other partition than a 
screen of single boards. There are very few oxen in the town, 
and when required they are driven from Bolcheresk, about ninety 
miles off, where pasturage is more abundant. Beef is consequently 
a luxury seldom enjoyed ; and sheep and goats cannot exist in the 
country, in consequence of the savage nature of the dogs, which 
are very large, and occasionally break away from their fastenings : 
fish therefore constitutes the principle food of the inhabitants. 

Necessarily frugal, and blessed with a salubrious climate, the 
residents in general enjoy good health, and appear to lead a con- 
tented life. They are extremely fond of the amusement of danc- 
ing, and frequently meet for this purpose. There are several mu- 
sicians, and musical instruments are manufactured by an ingenious 
exile. As spirituous liquors of any kind in the country are scarce, 
these meetings are not attended with any inebriety, and serve only 
to pass away the dull hours of a long winter's evening. The only 
refreshment we saw produced at them consisted of whortle and 
cran-berries ; these were piled up in two or three plates with a des- 
sert-spoon to each, and passed round the company, almost every 
body using the same spoon. Society is necessarily very mixed, or 
there could be none in so small a population, and when strangers 
are not present it is not unusual to see exiles at the governor's 
parties. 

In the winter sledging is a favourite occupation. The dogs are 
here very large and swift, and are so much esteemed that they are 
carried to Okotsk for sale. For a description of this amusement, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 443 

and other recreations of the Kamschatdales, 1 must refer the read- 
er to Cook's Voyage, to Captain Cochrane's Pedestrian Journey, 
and to the entertaining Travels of Mr. Dobell, who quitted Kam- 
schatka a short time before we arrived. 

At present the only trade carried on at Petropaulski is in furs, 
which are exchanged for goods brought annually from Okotsk. 
Every thing is excessively dear, even the necessary article salt is 
in great demand, and produces a very high price. 

The Bay of Awatska and the harbours which open into it leave 
nothing to be desired in the way of a port. Awatska has many 
square miles of ground which may be appropriated to secure anchor- 
age, and Tareinski is the beau ideal of a harbour. Petropaulski, 
though small, has a sufficient depth of water for a first-rate in every 
part of it. The ground is good, and the smoothness of the water is 
never affected by any weather upon the coast. As Awatska is 
nearly surrounded by high land, gusts of wind are of frequent oc- 
currence, particularly" opposite Rakovya harbour : on this account 
it is advisable to moor or ride with a long scope of cable. The en- 
trance to the port is narrow and about four miles in length, and as 
the wind almost always blows up or down the channel, ships fre- 
quently have to beat in and out, and experience great difficulty in 
so doing, from the confined space to which they are limited, and 
the eddy currents, which in the spring-time in particular must be 
carefully guarded against. There are but two shoals in the harbour 
which it is necessary to notice ; one off Rakovya, upon which there 
is a buoy,; and the other off the signal station on the west side of 
the entrance of Awatska Bay. 

Much has been said of the neglected condition of the settlement, 
and volumes have been written on the government, inhabitants, 
productions, and on the actual and prospective state of the country ;* 
still there have been no exertions on the part of the government 
materially to improve or provide for either one or the other. Its 
neglected state is probably of very little consequence at present ; 
but should the North Pacific ever be the scene of active naval ope- 
rations, Petropaulski must doubtless become of immense importance. 
At present it may be said to be unfortified, but a very few guns ju- 
diciously placed would effectually protect the entrance. 

On the 18th of July, having completed the survey of the bay of 
Awatska and its harbours, we took our leave of the hospitable 
inhabitants, and weighed anchor ; but, as on the former occasion, 
we were obliged to make several unsuccessful attempts to get out, 
and did not accomplish our object until the 20th, when we shaped 

* Cook's Third Voyage, vol. iii. Perouse's Voyage ; Krusenstern's Embassy to 
Japan ; Langsdorff's Travels ; Cochrane's Journey ; Dobell's Travels, &c. 



444 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [-Aug. 

our course towards Chepoonski Noss. A long swell rolled in upon 
the shore as we crossed this spacious bay, in the depth of which 
the port of Awatska is situated, and convinced us of the difficulty 
that would be experienced in getting clear of the land with a strong 
w r ind upon the coast, and of the danger a ship would incur were 
she, in addition to this, to be caught in a fog, which would prevent 
her finding the port. Our winds were light from seaward, and we 
made slow progress, striking soundings occasionally from sixty to 
seventy fathoms, until the following morning, when we took our 
departure from the Noss, and entered a thick fog, which enveloped 
us until we made Beering's Island on the 22d ; when it cleared 
away for the moment, we distinguished Seal Rock. We had no 
observation at noon, but by comparing the reckoning with the ob- 
servations of the preceding and following days, it gave the position 
of the island the same as before. 

We quitted the island with the prospect of a quick passage to 
the Straits ; and, attended by a thick fog, advanced to the north- 
ward until the 26th, at which time contrary winds brought us in 
with the Asiatic coast in the parallel of 61° 58' N. When we 
were within a few leagues of the coast the fog cleared away, as it 
generally does near the land, and discovered to us a hilly country, 
and a coast apparently broken into deep bays and inlets ; but, as 
we did not approach very closely, these might have been only 
valleys. In this parallel the nearest point of land bearing N. 74° 
W. true, thirteen miles, the depth of water was 26 fathoms ; and it 
increased gradually as we receded from the coast. The bottom 
near the shore was a coarse gravel, which, as that in the offing is 
mud or sand, is a useful distinctive feature. With a northerly wind- 
and a thick fog we stood towards St. Lawrence Island, and on the 
1st August were apprised of our approach to it, by the soundings 
changing from mud to sand, and several visits from the little cres- 
ted auks, which are peculiar to this island. We made the land about 
the same place we had done the preceding year, stood along it to the 
northward, and passed its N. W. extreme, at two miles and a half 
distance, in 15 fathoms water, over a bottom of stones and shells, 
which soon changed again to sand and mud. About midnight the 
temperature of water fell to 31°, and soon after that of the air was 
reduced from 42° to 34. The wind shifted to north-west, and cleared 
away the fog. On ihe after-noon of the 2d we passed King's Island 
and the wind continuing to the northward, anchored off Point Rod- 
ney, for the purpose of hoisting out the barge. We came to anchor 
in seven fathoms, three miles from the land, King's Island bearing 
N. 70° 29' W. true, and Sledge Island S. 65° E. true. 

Point Rodney is low, and the w r ater being shallow, it is difficult 
to land. From the beach to the foot of the mountains there is a 



1827.] and beering's strait. 445 

plain about two miles wide, covered with lichens and grass, upon 
which several herds of reindeer were feeding ; but the communi- 
cation is in places interrupted by narrow lakes, which extend sev- 
eral miles along the coast. Upon the beach there was a greater 
abundance of drift wood than we had noticed on any other part of 
the coast ; some of it was perforated by the terredo, and was cov- 
ered with small barnacles; but there were several trunks which ap- 
peared to have been recently torn up by the roots. Near the spot 
where we landed were several yourts, and a number of posts driv- 
en into the ground, and in the lake we found several artificial ducks 
which had been left as decoys : but we saw no natives. About 
two miles from the coast the country becomes mountainous, and far 
inland rises to peaked hills of great height, covered with perennial 
snow. 

It was calm throughout the greater part of the day, with very fine 
weather. The temperature, which increased gradually as we left 
the snowy coast of Asia/at noon reached to 55°, which was twenty 
one degrees higher than it had been on the opposite shore: and the 
mean for the last twenty-four hours was seven degrees higher than 
that of the preceding day. Part of this difference was evidently 
owing to the cessation of the northerly wind and our proximity to 
the land ; but part must also have been occasioned by one coast be- 
ing naturally colder than the other. 

During the time we were at anchor there was a regular ebb and 
flow of the tide : and there appeared by the shore to be about three 
or four feet rise of water. The flood came from the S. E., and 
ran with greater strength than the ebb, which showed there was a 
current setting towards Beering's Strait. Captain Cook noticed the 
same circumstance off this part of the coast. 

The equipment of our little tender was always a subject of inter- 
est, and preparations for hoisting her out seemed to give the great- 
est pleasure to all on board. She was again placed under the com- 
mand of Mr. Elson, who received orders to examine the coast nar- 
rowly between our station and Kotzebue Sound, and to search for 
an opening to the eastward of Cape Prince of Wales, of which the 
Esquimaux had apprised us the preceding year by their chart upon 
the sand. Mr. Elson was ordered to look into Schismareff Inlet,, 
and afterwards to meet the ship at Chamisso Island. This little ex- 
cursion was nearly being frustrated by an accident. In hoisting out 
the boat the bolt in the keel gave way, in consequence of the copper 
having corroded the iron of the clench ; a circumstance which should 
be guarded against in coppered boats. Fortunately she was not 
far off the deck, or the accident might have been of a very serious 
nature, as her w r eight was as much as our yards would bear when 
shored up. 



446 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Aug. 

As soon as she was equipped, Mr. Elson proceeded in shore ; 
and a breeze springing up shortly afterwards, the ship weighed, and 
entered the channel between King's Island and the main. The 
depth of water from the anchorage off Point Rodney decreased 
gradually as she proceeded, until nearly mid-channel, when the 
soundings became very irregular ; the alternate casts occasionally 
varying from nine to six fathoms, and vice versa. As it was blow- 
ing fresh at the time, the sudden change of soundings occasioned 
overfalls ; and, the channel having been very indifferently explored, 
it was unpleasant sailing. But, although I do^not think there is any 
danger, it would still be advisable in passing through the channel, 
which is full of ridges, to pay strict attention to the lead, particular- 
ly as when Captain Cook passed over the same ground, there was, 
according to his chart, nothing less than twelve fathoms. The wind 
increasing, and a thick fog approaching, the course was continued 
with some anxiety ; but finding the same irregularity in the sound- 
ings, I hauled out due west to the northward of King's Island, which 
speedily brought us into twenty-eight fathoms, and showed that 
there was a bank, tolerably steep at its edge, extending from King's 
Island to the main. We now resumed our course for the strait ; 
but the fog being very thick we had some difficulty in finding the 
passage, and were obliged to haul off twice before we succeeded in 
passing it. In doing this we crossed a narrow channel, with thirty 
seven fathoms water, which is deeper soundings than have been 
hitherto found within a great many miles of the strait. As the 
depth on each side of the channel is twenty-four fathoms, it may 
serve as a guide in future to vessels circumstanced as we were at the 
mouth of the strait in a thick fog. A little before noon we discerned 
the Fairway Rock, and passed the straits in confidence before a 
fresh gale of wind, which had just increased so much as to render 
our situation very unpleasant. 

On the morning of the 5th we passed Cape Espenburg, and in 
the evening came to anchor ofTChamisso Island, nearly in the same 
situation we had occupied so long the preceding year. On revisit- 
ing this island, curiosity and interest in the fate of our countrymen, 
of whom we were in search, were our predominant feelings; and a 
boat was immediately sent to ascertain whether they had been at 
the island. On her return we learned that no new marks had been 
discerned upon the rocks ; no staff was erected, as had been agreed 
upon in the event of their arrival ; and the billet of wood contain- 
ing despatches was lying unopened upon the same stone on which 
it had been placed the proceeding year ; either of which facts was a 
conclusive answer to our inquiry. 

By some chips of wood which had been recently cut, it appeared 
that the Esquimaux had not long quitted the island ; and on exam- 



1827.] and beering's strait. 447 

ining the grave of our unfortunate shipmate we found it had been 
disturbed by the natives, who, disappointed in their search, had again 
filled in the earth. It would be unfair to impute to these people 
any malicious intentions from this circumstance, as they must have 
had every reason to suppose, from their custom of concealing pro- 
visions underground, and from having found a cask of our flour bur- 
ied the preceding year, that they would find a similar treasure, espe- 
cially as they do not inter their dead. The cask of flour and the 
box of beads, which had been deposited in the sand, had been un- 
molested; but a copper coin which we nailed upon a post on the 
summit of the island was taken away. 

The swarms of mosquitos that infested the shore at this time 
greatly lessened our desire to land. However, some of our sports- 
men traversed the island, and succeeded in killins; a white hare, 
weighing nearly twelve pounds, and a few ptarmigan ; the hare was 
getting its summer coat, and the young birds were strong upon the 
wing. 

For several days after our arrival the weather was very thick, 
with rain and squalls from the south-west, which occasioned some 
anxiety for the barge ; but on the 11th she joined us, and I learned 
from Mr. Elson that he had succeeded in finding the inlet, and that as 
far as he could judge, the weather being very foggy and boisterous, 
it was a spacious and excellent port. He was visited by several of 
the natives while there, one of whom drew him a chart, which cor- 
responded with that constructed upon the sand in Kotzebue Sound 
the preceding year. On his putting to sea from the inlet, the weath- 
er continued very thick, so much so that he passed through Beer- 
ing's Strait without seeing land ; and was unable to explore Scis- 
marefF Inlet. 

The discovery of a port so near to Beering's Strait, and one in 
which it was probable the ship might remain after circumstances 
should oblige her to quit Kotzebue Sound, was of great importance ; 
and I determined to take an early opportunity of examining it, 
should the situation of the ice to the northward afford no prospect 
of our proceding further than we had done the preceding year. 
In order that Captain Franklin's party might not be inconvenienced 
by such an arrangement, the barge was fitted, and placed under the 
command of Lieutenant Belcher, who was ordered to proceed along 
the coast as in the preceding year, and to use his best endeavours to 
communicate with the party under Captain Franklin's command, 
by penetrating to the eastward as far as he could go with safety to 
the boat ; but he was on no account to risk being beset in the ice ; 
and in the event of separation from the ship, he was not to protract 
his absence from Kotzebue Sound beyond the 1st of September, 



448 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFld \Aug. 

He was also to examine the shoals off Icy Cape and Cape Krusen- 
stern,und to explore the bay to the northward of Point Hope. 

Having made these arrangements, we endeavoured to put to sea, 
but calms and fogs detained us at Chamisso until the 14th, and it 
was the 16th before we reached the entrance of the sound. The 
barge, however, got out, and the weather afterwards being very 
foggy, we did not rejoin for some time. Before we left the island 
we were visited by several natives whom we remembered to have 
seen the preceding year. They brought some skins for sale, as 
usual, but did not find so ready a market for them as on the former 
occasion, in consequence of the greater part of the furs which had 
been purchased by the seamen at that time, having rotted and be- 
come offensive on their return to warm latitudes. Our visitors were 
as before, dirty, noisy, and impudent. One of them, finding he was 
not permitted to carry off some deep-sea leads that were lying 
about, scraped off the greasy arming and devoured it : another, after 
bargaining some skins for the armourer's anvil, unconcernedly seiz- 
ed it for the purpose of carrying it away ; but much to his surprise, 
and to the great diversion of the sailors who had played him the 
trick, he found its weight much too great for him, and after a good 
laugh received back his goods. A third amused the young gentle- 
men very much by his humourous behaviour. He was a shrewd, 
observing, merry fellow. For some time he stood eyeing the offi- 
cers walking the deck, and at length appeared determined to turn 
them into ridicule : seizing therefore a young midshipman by the 
hand, he strutted with him up and down the deck in a most ludi- 
crous manner, to the great entertainment of all present. They 
quit us late at night, but renewed their visit at three in the morn- 
ing, and that they would have an opportunity of appropriating to 
themselves some of the moveable articles upon deck. There was 
otherwise no reason for returning so soon ; and from what we after- 
wards saw of these people, there is every reason to believe that was 
their real motive. 

Off the entrance of Kotzebue Sound we were met by a westerly 
wind, which prevented our making much progress ; but on the 
18th the breeze veered to the south-westward, with a thick fog, 
and as I had not seen any thing of the barge, I steered to the north- 
ward to ascertain the position of the ice. At noon Cape Thomson 
was seen N. 46° E. (true) three leagues distant, but was immediate- 
ly obscured again by fog. At midnight the temperature of both 
air and sea fell from 43° to 39°, and rose again soon afterwards to 
44 Q occasioned probably by some patches of ice ; but the weather 
was so thick that we could see only a very short distance around us. 
We continued to stand to the north-west, with very thick and rainy 
weather, until half past one o'clock in the afternoon, when I hauled 



1827.] and beering's strait. 449 

to the wind, inconsequence of the temperature of the water having 
cooled down to 35°, and the weather being still very thick. In 
half an hour afterwards we heard the ice to leeward, and had but 
just room to get about to clear a small berg at its edge. Our lati- 
tude at this time was 70° 01' N., and longitude 168° 50' W. or 
about 160 miles to the westward of Icy Cape. The soundings in 
the last twelve hours had been very variable, increasing at one time 
to thirty fathoms, then shoaling to twenty-four and deepening again 
to thirty-two fathoms, muddy bottom, an hour after this we shoaled 
to twenty-one fathoms, stones, and at the edge of the ice to nine- 
teen fathoms, stones. The body of ice lying to the northward 
prevented our pursuing this shallow water, to ascertain whether it 
decreased so as to become dangerous to navigation. 

Shortly after we tacked, the wind fell very light, and changed to 
west. We could hear the ice plainly ; but the fog was so thick that 
we could not see thirty yards distance ; and, as we appeared to be 
in a bay, to avoid being beset, we stood out by the way which we 
had entered. At nine o'clock the fog cleared off, and we returned 
toward the ice. At midnight, being close to its edge, we found it 
in a compact body, extending from W. to N. E. and trending N. 
68° E. true. As the weather was unsettled, I stood off until four 
o'clock, and then tacked, and at eight again saw the ice a few miles 
to the south-eastward of our position the day before. We ran along 
its edge, and at noon observed the latitude in 70°- 06' . N. 

Occasional thick weather and snow showers obliged us to keep at 
a greater distance from the pack, and we lost sight of it for several 
hours ; but finding by the increase of temperature of the water that 
our course led us too much from it, at nine o'clock I steered N.N.E. 
true. And. at midnight was again close upon it. The ice was 
compact as before, except near the edge, and extended from W.S. 
W. to N.N.E. mag. trending N. 56° E. true. We now followed 
its course closely to the eastward, and found it gradually turning 
to the southward. At three o'clock the wind veered to south-west 
with snow showers and thick weather ; and as this brought us upon 
alee shore, I immediatly hauled off the ice, and carried a press ot 
sail to endeavour to weather Icy Cape. The edge of the packed 
ice at this time was in latitude 70° 47' N. trending south-eastward, 
and gradually approaching the land to the eastward of Icy Cape. 
By the information of Lieutenant Belcher, who was off the Cape at 
this time, though not within sight of the ship, it closed the land 
about twenty-seven miles east of Icy Cape. 

The passage that was left between it and the beach was extremely 
narrow ; and, judging from the effect of the westerly winds off Ref- 
uge Inlet the preceding year, it must soon have closed up, as those 
winds blew with great strength about the time we hauled off, 
57 



450 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [^ u g- 

From this it appears that the line of packed ice, in the meridian 
of icy cape, was twenty-four miles to the southward of its position 
the preceding year, and that it was on the whole much nearer the 
continent of America. With the ice thus pressing upon the Amer- 
can coast, and with the prevalence of westerly winds, by which this 
season was distinguished, there would have been very little prospect 
of a vessel bent upon effecting the passage succeeding even in reaching 
Point Barrow. 

The wind continuing to blow from the S. W. with thick weather 
and showers of snow, we endeavoured to get an offing, and at ten 
o'clock tacked a mile off the land near Icy Cape. In the after- 
noon we stood again to the southward, and the next day fetched in- 
to the bay near Cape Beaufort, and at night hove to off Cape Lisburn 
with thick and cold weather. The next morning, being moderate, 
afforded us the only opportunity we had hitherto had of depositing 
some information for Captain Franklin's party. The boat landed 
near the Cape, and buried one bottle for him and another for Lieu- 
tenant Belcher, whom we had not seen since we parted at Chamisso 
Island. In the evening we stretched toward Point Hope, for the 
purpose of depositing a bottle there also, as it was a point which 
could not escape Captain Franklin's observation in his route along 
shore ; but the wind increasing from the westward occasioned a 
heavy surf upon the beach, and obliged the ship to keep in the offing. 

Seeing that we could not remain sufficiently close in shore to be 
of use to our friends during the westerly winds and thick weather. 
I determined upon the examination of the inlet discovered by Mr 
Elson to the eastward of Cape Prince of Wales, and made sail for 
Kotzebue Sound, for the purpose of leaving there the necessary 
information for Captain Franklin and Lieutenant Belcher, in the 
event of either arriving during our absence. 

We passed Cape Krusenstern about sunset on the 25th ; and in 
running along shore after dark our attention was directed to a large 
fire kindled as if for the purpose of attracting our notice. As this 
was the signal agreed upon between Captain Franklin and myself, 
and as we had not before seen a fire in the night on any part of the 
coast, we immediately brought to, and, to our great satisfaction at 
the moment, observed a boat pulling towards the ship. Our anxie- 
ty at her approach may be imagined, when we thought we could 
discover with our telescopes, by the light of the aurora borealis, that 
she was propelled by oars instead of paddles. But just as our 
expectation was at the highest, we were accosted by the Esquimaux 
in their usual manner, and all our hopes vanished. I fired a gun, 
however, in case their might be any persons on shore who could not 
come off to us ; but the signal not being answered, we pursued our 
course for Chamisso. 

For the first time since we entered Beering's Strait the night was 



1827.] and beering's strait. 451 

clear, and the aurora borealis sweeping across the heavens remind- 
ed us that it was exactly on that night twelvemonth that we saw this 
beautiful phenomenon for the first time in these seas. A short time 
before it began, a brilliant meteor fell in the western quarter. The 
aurora is at all times an object of interest, and seldom appears with- 
out some display worthy of admiration, though the expectation is 
seldom completely gratified. The uncertainty of its movements, 
and of the moment when it may breakout into splendour^ has, how- 
ever, the effect of keeping the attention continually on the alert ; 
many of us in consequence stayed up to a late hour, but nothing was 
exhibited on this occasion more than we had already repeatedly 
witnessed. 

We were more fortunate the following night, when the aurora ap- 
proached nearer the southern horizon than it had done on any form- 
er occasion that we had observed in this part of the globe. It com- 
menced much in the usual manner, by forming an arch from W.N. 
W. to E. N. E., and then soared rapidly to the zenith, where the 
streams of light rolled into each other, and, exhibited brilliant col- 
ours of purple, pink, and green. It then became diffused over the 
sky generally, leaving about 8° of clear space between it and the 
northern and southern horizons. From this tranquil state it again, 
suddenly poured out corruscations from all parts, which shot up to 
the zenith, and formed a splendid cone of rays, blending pink, pur- 
ple and green colours in all their varieties. This singular and beau- 
tiful exhibition lasted only a few minutes, when the light as before 
became diffused over the sky in a bright haze. 

We anchored at Chamisso on the 26th, and, after depositing the 
necessary information on shore, weighed the next morning to pro- 
ceed to examine the inlet. We were scarcely a league from the 
land when our attention was again arrested by a fire kindled upon 
the Peninsula, and eight or ten persons standing upon the heights 
waving to the ship. The disappointment of the preceding night 
ought certainly to have put us upon- our guard ; but the desire of 
meeting our countrymen induced us to transform every object ca- 
pable of misconstruction into something favourable to our wishes, 
and our expectations on this occasion carried us so far that some im- 
agined they could perceive the party to be dressed in European 
clothes. A boat was immediately despatched to the shore ; but, as 
the reader has already begun to suspect, it was a party of Esqui- 
maux, who wished to dispose of some skins for tobacco. 

This disappointment lost us a favourable tide, and we did not clear 
the sound before the night of the 29th. After passing Cape Es- 
penberg, a strong north-west wind made it necessary to stand off' 
shore, in doing which the water shoaled from thirteen to nine fath- 
oms upon a bank lying off Schismareff Inlet, and again deepened td 



452 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Aug. 

thirteen : we then bore away for the strait, and at eleven o'clock saw 
the Diomede Islands, thirteen leagues distant ; and about four o'clock 
rounded Cape Prince of Wales very close, in twenty-seven fathoms 
water. 

This celebrated promontory is the western termination of a peak- 
ed mountain, which, being connected with the main by low ground, 
at a distance has the appearance of being isolated. The promon- 
tory is bold, and remarkable by a number of ragged points and large 
fragments of rock lying upon the ridge which connects the cape with 
the peak. About a mile to the northward of the cape, some low 
land begins to project from the foot of the mountain, taking first a 
northerly and then a north-easterly direction to SchismarefF Inlet. 
Off this point we afterwards found a dangerous shoal, upon which 
the sea broke heavily. The natives have a village upon the low 
land near the cape called Eidannoo, and another inland, named King- 
a-ghe : and as they generally select the mouths of rivers for their res- 
idences, it is not improbable that a stream may here empty itself into 
the sea, which, meeting the current through the straight, may oc- 
casion the shoal. About fourteen miles inland from Eidannoo, there 
is a remarkable conical hill, often visible when the mountain-tops 
are covered, which, being well fixed, will be found useful at such 
times by ships passing through the strait. Twelve miles further in- 
land, the country becomes mountainous, and is remarkable for its 
sharp ridges. The altitude of one of the peaks, which is nearly 
the highest on the range, is 2596 feet. These mountains, being thick- 
ly covered with snow, gave the country a very wintry aspect. 

To the southward of Cape Prince of Wales the coast trends near- 
ly due east, and assumes a totally different character to that which 
leads to SchismarefF Inlet, being bounded by steep rocky cliffs, and 
broken by deep valleys, while the other is low and swampy ground. 
The river called by the natives Youp-nut must lie in one of 
these valleys ; and in all probability it is in that which opens out near 
a bold promontory, to which I have given the name of York, in 
honour of his late Royal Highness. On nearing that part of the 
coast we found the water more shallow than usual. 

Having passed the night off Cape York on the 31st, we steered 
to the eastward, and shortly discovered a low spit of land projecting 
about ten miles from the coast, which here forms a right angle, and 
having a channel about two miles wide between its extremity and 
the northern shore. We sailed through this opening, and entered 
a spacious harbour, capable of holding a great many ships of the 
line. We landed first on the low spit at the entrance, and then 
stood across, nine miles to the eastward, and came to anchor off a 
bold cape, having carried nothing less than five and a half fathoms 
water the whole of the way. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 453 

The following morning, Sept. 1st, we stood toward an opening at 
the north-east angle of the harbour; but finding the water get 
gradually shallow, came again to anchor. On examination with 
the boats, we found, as we expected, an inner harbour, ten miles 
in length by two and a quarter in width, with almost an uniform 
depth of two and a half and three fathoms water. The channel 
into it from the outer harbour is extremely narrow, the entrance 
being contracted by two sandy spits : but the water is deep, and in 
one part there is not less than twelve fathoms. At the upper end 
of the harbour a second strait, about three hundred yards in width, 
was formed between steep cliffs ; but this channel was also contrac- 
ted by sandy points. The current ran strong through the channel, 
and brought down a great body of water, nearly fresh (1.0096 sp.- 
gr.) The boats had not time to pursue this strait : but in all prob- 
ability it communicates with a large inland lake, as described by 
the natives in Kotzebue Sound. At the entrance of the strait, cal- 
led Tokshook by the natives, there is an Esquimaux village, and 
upon the northern and eastern shores of the harbour there are two 
others ; the population of the whole amounted to about four hund- 
red perons. They closely resembled the natives we had seen be- 
fore, except that they were better provided with clothing and their 
implements were neater and more ingeniously made. Among their 
peltry we noticed several gray fox and land-otter skins, but they 
would not part with them for less than a hatchet apiece. In addi- 
tion to the usual weapons of bows and arrows, these people had 
short iron spears neatly inlaid with brass, upon all which implements 
they set great value, and kept them wrapped in skins. Among 
the inhabitants of the village on the northern shore named Choono- 
wuck, there were several girls with massive iron bracelets. One 
had a curb chain for a necklace, and another a bell suspended in 
front in the manner described the preceding year at Choris Penin- 
sula. 

There are very few natives in the outer harbour. On the nor-*, 
thern side there is a village of yourts, to which the inhabitants ap-. 
parently resort only in the winter. At the time of our visit it was 
in charge of an old man, his wife, and daughter, who received us 
civilly, and gave us some fish. The yourts were in a very ruinous 
condition : some were half filled with water, and all were filthy. 
By several articles and cooking utensils left upon the shelves, and 
by some sledges which were secreted in the bushes, the inhabitants 
evidently intended to return as soon as the frost should consolidate 
all the stagnant water within and about their dwellings. One of 
these yourts was so capacious that it could only have been intended 
as an assembly or banquetting room, and corresponded with the de- 
scription of similar rooms among the eastern Esquimaux, 



454 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

There was a burying ground near the village in which we notice- 
ed several bodies wrapped in skins, and deposited upon drift wood, 
with frames of canoes, and sledges, &'c. placed near them, as already 
described at the entrance of Hotham Inlet. The old man whom 
we found at this place gave the same names to the villages at the 
head of the inner harbour, and to the points of land at its entrance, 
as we had received from the natives of King-a-ghe whom we met in 
Kotzebue Sound. 

His daughter had the hammer of a musket suspended about her 
neck, and held it so sacred that she would scarcely submit it to ex- 
amination, and afterwards carefully concealed it within her dress. 
She was apparently very modest and bashful, and behaved with so 
much propriety that it was a pleasure to find such sentiments exist- 
ing beneath so uncouth an exterior. 

Upon the low point at the entrance of the inner harbour, called 
Nooke by the natives, there were some Esquimaux fishermen, who 
reminded us of a former acquintance at Chamisso Island, and salu- 
ted us so warmly that we felt sorry their reccollection had not en- 
tirely failed them. They appear to have established themselves on 
the point for the purpose of catching and drying fish : and from the 
number of salmon that were leaping in the channel, we should have 
thought they would have been more successful. They had, how- 
ever, been fortunate in taking plenty of cod, and some species of sal- 
mon trout : they had also caught some herrings. 

We were also recognised by a party from the southern shores of 
the harbour, who the preceding year, had extended their fishing ex- 
cursions from this place to Kotzebue Sound. These were some of 
the most cleanly and well-dressed people we had seen on the coast. 
Their residence was at King-a-ghe — a place which, judging from 
the respectability of its inhabitants, whom we had seen elsewhere, 
iiiust be of importance among the Esquimaux establishments upon 
ihis coast. 

These two ports, situated so near Beering's Strait, may at some 
future time be of greater importance to navigation, as they will be 
found particularly useful by vessels which may not wish to pass the 
strait in bad weather. To the outer harbour, which for convenience 
and security surpasses any other near Beering's Strait with which 
we are acquinted, I attached the name of Port Clarence, in honour 
of his most gracious Majesty, then Duke of Clarence. To the in- 
ner, which is well adapted to the purposes of repair, and is suciment- 
ly deep to receive a frigate, provided she lands her guns, which can 
be done conveniently upon the sandy point at the entrance, I gave 
the name of Grantley Harbour, in compliment to Lord Grantley. 
To the points at the entrance of Port Clarence I attached the names 
of Spencer and Jackson, in compliment to. Capt. the Honourable 



1827.] and beering's strait. 455 

Sir Robert Spencer and Captain Samuel Jackson, C.B., two distin- 
guished officers in the naval service : to the latter of whom I am 
indebted for my earliest connexion with the voyages of northern 
Discovery. 

The northern and eastern shores of Port Clarence slope from 
the mountains to the sea, and are occasionally terminated by cliffs 
composed of fine and talcy mica slate, intersected by veins of 
calcareous spar of a pearly lustre, mixed with grey quartz. The 
soil is covered with a thick coating of moss, among which there is 
a very limited flora : the valleys and hollows are filled with dwarf 
willow and birch. The country is swampy and full of ruts ; and 
vegetation on the whole, even on the north side of the harbour, 
which had a southern aspect, was more backward than in Kotezbue 
Sound ; still we found here three species of plants we had not seen 
before. Plants that were going to seed when we left that island 
were here only just in full flower, and berries that were there over 
ripe were here scarcely fit to be eaten. On the northern side of 
Grantly Harbour, Mr. Collie found a bed of purple primulas, cme,<- 
rnones, and of dodecatheons, in full and fresh blossom, amidst a cov- 
ering of snow that had fallen the preceding night. 

The southern side of Port Clarence is a low diluvial formation, 
covered with grass, and intersected by narrow channels and lakes ; 
it projects from a range of cliffs which appear to have been once 
upon the coast, and sweeping round, terminates in a low shingly 
point (Point Spencer.) In one place this point is so narrow and 
low, that in a heavy gale of wind the sea must almost inundate it; 
to the northward, however, it becomes wider and higher, and, by 
the remains of some yourts upon it, has at one time been the resi- 
dence of Esquimaux. Like the land just described, it is intersected 
with lakes, some of which rise and fall with the tide, and is covered, 
though scantily, with a coarse grass, elymus, among which we found 
a species of artemesia, probably new. Near Point Spencer the 
beach has been forced up by some extraordinary pressure into ridges, 
of which the outer one, ten or twelve feet above the sea, is the high- 
est. Upon and about these ridges there is a great quantity of drift 
timber, but more on the inner side of the point than the outer. 
Some has been deposited upon the point before the ridges of sand 
were formed, and is now mouldering away with the effect of time, 
while other logs are less decayed ; and that which is lodged on the 
outer part is in good preservation, and serves the natives for bows 
and fishing staves. 

We saw several reindeer upon the hilly ground ; in the lakes, 
wild ducks : and upon the low point of the inner harbour, golden 
plover, and sanderlings, and a gull very much resembling the larus 
sabini. 



456 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

The survey of these capacious harbours occupied us until the 5th, 
when we had completed nearly all that was necessary, and the 
weather set in with such severity that I was anxious to get to Kotz- 
ebue Sound. For the three preceding days the weather had been 
cold, with heavy falls of snow ; and the seamen, the boat's crews in 
particular, suffered from their exposure to it, and from the harrassing 
duty which was indispensable from the expeditious execution of the 
survey. On this day, the 5th, thermometer stood at 25 1-2°, and 
the lakes on shore were frozen. We accordingly weighed, but not 
being able to get out, passed a sharp frosty night in the entrance ; 
and next morning, favoured with an easterly wind, weighed and 
steered for the strait. As we receded from Point Spencer, the 
difficulty of distinguishing it even at a short distance, accounted for 
this excellent port having been overlooked by Cook, who anchored 
within a very few miles of its entrance. 

As we neared Beering's Strait the wind increased, and on round- 
ing Cape Prince of Wales, obliged us to reduce our sails to the close 
reef. On leaving the port the wind had been from the eastward, 
but it now drew to the northward, and compelled us to carry sail, in 
order to weather the Diomede Islands. Whilst we were thus pres- 
sed, John Dray, one of the seamen unfortunately fell overboard 
from the lookout at the masthead, and sunk alongside a boat which 
was sent to him, after having had his arms round two of the oars. 
This was the only accident of the kind that had occurred since the 
ship had been in commission, and it was particularly unfortunate 
that it should have fallen to the lot of so good a man as Dray. Pre- 
vious to his entry in the ship he resided some time at the Marque- 
sas Islands, and was so well satisfied with the behaviour of the na- 
tives of that place that he purposed living amongst them ; but being 
on board a boat belonging to Baron Wrangel's ship, at a time when 
the islanders made a most unjustifiable attack upon her, he was 
afraid to return to the shore, and accompanied the Baron to Petro- 
paulski, where I received him and another seamen, similarly circum- 
stanced, into the ship. 

Toward night the wind increased to a gale, and split almost every 
sail that was spread ; the weather was dark and thick, with heavy 
falls of snow ; and suspecting there might be a current setting through 
the strait, we anxiously looked out for the Diomede Islands, which 
were to leeward, and we were not a little surprised to find, on the 
weather clearing up shortly after daylight the following morning, 
that there had been a current running nearly against the wind, at 
the rate of upwards of a mile an hour, in a N. 41° W. direction. 

From the time we cpitted Port Clarence the temperature began 
to rise, and this morning stood four degrees above the freezing point. 
Change of locality was the only apparent cause for this increase, 



1827.] and beering's strait. 457 

and it is very probable that the vicinity of the mountains to Port 
Clarence is the cause of the temperature of that place being lower 
than it is at sea. 

In the morning we saw a great many walrusses and whales, and 
observed large flocks of ducks migrating to the southward. The 
coast on both sides was covered with snow, and every thing looked 
wintry. The wind about this time changed to N. W., and by the 
evening carried us off the entrance of Kotzebue Sound, when we 
encountered, as usual, an easterly wind, and beat up all night with 
thick misty weather. 

In our run to this place we again passed over a shoal, with eight 
and a half and nine fathoms water upon it, off Schismareff inlet. 
After beating all night in very thick weather, on the 9th of Septem- 
ber we stood in for the northern shore of the sound, expecting to 
make the land well to windward of Cape Blossom, where the sound- 
ings decrease so gradually that a due attention to the lead is the 
only precaution necessary to prevent running on shore ; but there 
had unfortunately been a strong current during the night, which had 
drifted the ship towards Hotham Inlet, where the water shoaling 
suddenly from five fathoms to two and a half, the ship struck upon 
the sand while in the act of going about, and soon became fixed by 
the current running over the shoal. In consequence of this current 
our small boats experienced the utmost difficulty in carrying out an 
anchor, but they at length succeeded, though to no purpose, as the 
ship was immoveable. Looking to the possible result of this catas- 
trophe, we congratulated ourselves on having the barge at hand to 
convey the crew to Kamschatka, little suspecting, from an accident 
which had already befallen her, in what a helpless condition each 
party was at that moment placed. Fortunately we were not reduc- 
ed to the necessity of abandoning the ship, which appearances at 
one time led us to apprehend, as the wind moderated shortly after 
she struck, and on the rising of the next tide she went off without 
having received any apparent injury. 



58 



458 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Arrive at Chamisso Island — Find the Barge wrecked — Lieutenant Belcher's Pro- 
ceedings — Conduct of the natives — Approach of winter — Final Departure from 
the Polar Sea — Observations upon the probability of the North -West Passage 
from the Pacific — Remarks upon the Tribe inhabiting the North- West Coast of 
America — Return to California — Touch at San Bias, Valparaiso, Coquimbo, Rio 
Janeiro — Conclusion. 

After having so narrowly escaped shipwreck, we beat up all night 
with thick weather, and the next morning steered for Chamisso Isl- 
and. As we approached the anchorage we were greatly disappoint- 
ed at not seeing the barge at anchor, as her time had expired seve- 
ral days, and her provisions were too nearly expended for her to 
remain at sea with safety to her crew ; but on scrutinizing the shore 
with our telescopes, we discovered a flag flying upon the south-west 
point of Choris Peninsula, and two men waving a piece of white 
cloth to attract attention. Amidst the sensations of hope and fear, 
a doubt immediately arose, whether the people we saw were the 
long looked for land expedition, or the crew of our boat, who had 
been unfortunate amongst the ice, or upon the coast, in the late 
boisterous weather. The possibility of its being the party under 
Captain Franklin arrived in safety, after having accomplished its 
glorious undertaking, was the first, because the most ardent, wish of 
our sanguine minds ; but this was soon contradicted by a nearer 
view of the flag, which was clearly distinguished to be the ensign of 
our own boat, hoisted with the union downwards, indicative of dis- 
tress. The boats were immediately sent to the relief of the suffer- 
ers, with provisions and blankets, concluding, as we saw only part 
of the crew stirring about, and others lying down within a small 
fence erected round the flag-staff, that they were ill, or had receiv- 
ed hurts. 

On the return of the first boat our conjectures as to the fate of 
the barge were confirmed ; but with this difference, that instead of 
having been lost upon the coast to northward, she had met her fate 
in Kotzebue Sound, and we had the mortification to find that three 
of the crew had perished with her. Thus, at the very time that 



1827.] and beering's strait. 459 

we were consoling ourselves, in the event of our misfortunes of the 
preceding day terminating disastrously, that we should receive re- 
lief from our boat, her crew were anticipating assistance from us. 

From the report of Lieutenant Belcher, who commanded the 
barge, it appears that, after quiting Chamisso Island^on the 12th ul- 
timo, he proceeded along the northern shore of the Sound, and 
landed upon Cape Krusenstern, where he waited a short time, and 
not seeing the ship, the weather being very thick, he stood on for 
Cape Thomson, where he came to an anchor, and replenished his 
stock of water. He met some natives on shore who informed him 
'that the ship had passed to the northward (which was not true,) 
and he therefore pursued bis course ; but finding the weather thick, 
and the wind blowing strong from the S. E., he brought to under 
the lee of Point Hope, and examined the bay formed between it and 
Cape Lisburh, where he discovered a small cove, which afforded 
him a convenient anchorage in two fathoms, muddy bottom. This 
cove, which I have named after his relation, Captain Murryat, R. 
N. is the estuary of a river, which has no doubt contributed to throw 
up the point. 

After Lieutenant Belcher had constructed a plan of the cove, he 
proceeded to Cape Lisburn ; the weather still thick, and the wind 
blowing at S. W. He nevertheless effected a landing upon the 
north side of the Cape and observed its latitude to be 68° 52' 3" N. 
and the variation to be 32° 23' E. From thence he kept close 
along the shore, for the purpose of falling in with the land expedi- 
tion, and arrived off Icy Cape on the 19th, when he landed and 
examined every place in the hope of discovering some traces of 
Captain Franklin. He found about twenty natives on the point 
living in tents, who received him very civilly, and assisted him to 
fill his water casks from a small well they had dug in the sand for 
their own use. The yourts, which rendered this point remarkable 
at a distance, were partly filled with water, and partly with winter 
store of blubber and oil. 

From Icy Cape he stood E.N.E. ten miles, and then N. E. twen- 
ty-seven, at which time, in consequence of the weather continuing 
thick and the wind beginning to blow hard from the south-west,, he 
hauled offshore and shortly fell in with the main body of ice, which 
arrested his course and obliged him to put about. It blew so strong 
during the night that the boat could only show her close-reefed 
mainsail and storm-jib, under which she plied, in order to avoid the 
ice on one side and a lee-shore on the other : the boat thus pressed 
leaked considerably, and kept the crew at the pumps. 

On the 21st August, the weather being more moderate, he again 
made the ice, and after keeping along it some time, returned to Icy 
Cape, and found that the edge of the packed ice was in latitude 



460 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

70° 41' N. in a N.N.W. direction from the cape, extending east 
and west (true). 

On the 23d August another landing was made upon Icy Cape } 
and its latitude, by artificial horizon, ascertained to be 70° 19' 28'' 
N., and variation by Kater's compass 32° 49' E. Lieutenant Bel- 
cher's curiosity was here greatly awakened by one of the natives 
leading him to a large room used by the Esquimaux for dancing and 
by searching for a billet of wood, which his gestures implied had been 
left by some Europeans, but not finding it, he scrutinised several 
chips which were in the apartment, and intimated that some per- 
son had cut it up. This was very provoking, as Lieutenant Bel- 
cher naturally recurred to the possibility of Captain Franklin hav- 
ing returned by the same route. Nothing, however, was found, 
and Lieutenant Belcher, after depositing a notice of his having been 
there, embarked and passed the night off the Cape in heavy falls of 
snow, hail and sleet. The next day he again fell in with ice in 
latitude 70° 40' N. which determined him to stand back to the 
cape and examine the shoals upon which the ship lost her anchor 
the preceding year. 

On the 26th, the ice was again found in 70° 41' N. and the next 
day was traced to the E.S.E. to within five or six miles of the land, 
and at the distance of about twenty miles to the eastward of Icy Cape. 
The ice appeared to be on its passage to the southward, and the 
bergs were large and scattered. Under these circumstances, Lieu- 
tenant Belcher, to avoid being beset, stood back to the cape, and 
had some difficulty in maintaining his station off there, in conse- 
quence of the severity of the weather, which cased his sails, and 
the clothes of the seamen exposed to the spray, with ice. 

Three of his crew at this time became invalids with chilblains and 
ulcers occasioned by the cold : and the necessity of carrying a press 
of sail strained the boat to such a degree that she again leaked so 
fast as to require the pumps to be kept constantly at work. It be- 
came necessary, therefore, to seek shelter, and he bore up for Point 
Hope ; but before he reached that place the sea broke twice over 
the stern of the boat, and nearly swamped her. Upon landing at 
the point he was met by the natives, who were beginning to prepare 
their yourts for the winter. His crew here dried their clothes for 
the first time for several days, and Lieutenant Belcher having obtain- 
ed the latitude, again put to sea ; but findiug the weather still so 
bad that he could not keep the coast with safety, and the period of his 
rendezvous at Chamisso Island having arrived, he pursued his course 
for that place, where he found the instructions I had left for him be- 
fore I proceeded to examine Port Clarence. 

Among other things he was desired to collect a quantity of drift- 
timber, and to erect an observatory upon Choris Peninsula ; in which 



1827.] AND BEERINC'S STRAIT. 461 

he was engaged, when the wind coming suddenly in upon the shore 
where the barge had anchored, the crew were immediately ordered 
on board. It unfortunately happened that the weather was so fine 
in the morning that only two persons were left in the vessel, and the 
boat belonging to the barge being small could take only four at a 
time. One boat load- had joined the vessel, but the surf rose so 
suddenly that in the attempt to reach her a second time, the oars 
were broken, and the boat was thrown back by the sea, and rendered 
nearly useless. 

Several persevering and unsuccessful efforts were afterwards made 
to communicate with the vessel, which being anchored in shallow 
water struck hard upon the ground, and soon filled. Some Esqui- 
maux happened to have a baidar near the spot, and Mr. Belcher 
compelled them to assist him in reaching the barge ; but the sea 
ran too high, and the natives not being willing to exert themselves 
the attempt again failed. The sea was now making a breach over 
the vessel, and Mr. Belcher desired the cockswain to cut the cable, 
and allow her to come broadside upon the shore ; but whether 
through fear, or that the cockswain did not understand his orders, it 
was not done. There were four men and a boy on board at this 
time, two of whom, finding no hope of relief from the shore, jumped 
overboard, with spars in their hands, and attempted to gain the 
beach, but were unfortunately drowned. The others retreated to 
the rigging ; among them was a boy, whose cries were for some 
time heard on shore, but at length, exhausted with cold and fatigue, 
he fell from the rigging, and was never seen again. 

The party of Esquimaux, who had so reluctantly rendered their 
personal assistance, beheld this loss of lives with the greatest com- 
posure giving no other aid than that of their prayers and superstitious 
ceremonies ; and seeing the helpless condition of those thrown upon 
shore, began to pilfer every thing they could, bringing the party 
some fish occasionally, not from charitable motives, but for the pur- 
pose of engaging their attention, and of affording themselves abet- 
ter opportunity of purloining the many articles belonging to the boat 
which were washed ashore. About eleven o'clock at night the sea 
began to subside, and at midnight, after very great exertions, a com- 
munication with the vessel was effected and the two remaining sea- 
men were carried on shore, and laid before the fire, where they re- 
covered sufficiently to be taken to a hut near the fatal scene. 

The morning after this unfortunate occurrence, part of the crew 
were employed collecting what was washed on shore, and preven- 
ting the natives committing further depredations. Seeing there was 
no chance of obtaining any thing more of consequence from the 
wreck, the party took up its quarters on Point Garnet, where we 
found them on our return from Port Clarence. Previous to this, 



462 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

several Esquimaux had pitched a tent in the bay close to the party 
and lost no opportunity of appropiating to themselves whatever they 
could surreptitiously obtain. Among these were four persons whom 
Mr. Belcher had a short time before assisted, when their baidar 
was thrown on shore, and one of the party drowned. These peo- 
ple did not forget his kindness and brought him fish, occasionally, 
but they could not resist the temptation of joining their companions 
in plunder when it was to be had. Mr. Belcher seeing several ar- 
ticles amongst them which must have accompanied others in their 
possession, searched their bags, and recovered the boat's ensign, and 
many other things. No opposition was offered to this examination 
but on the contrary, some of the party which had been saved from 
the wreck of the baidar, intimated to Mr. Belcher that a man who 
was making off with a bag had part of his property ; and on search- 
ing him, a quantity of the boat's iron and the lock of a fowling piece 
were discovered upon him. 

Upon the whole, however, the natives behaved better than was 
expected, until the day on which the ship arrived. This appears to 
have been a timely occurrence ; for early that morning two baidars 
landed near the wreck, and the Esquimaux party was increased to 
twenty-four. The man who had been searched the preceding eve- 
ning, finding his friends so numerous, and being joined by another 
troublesome character, came towards our people, flourishing his 
knife, apparently with the determination of being revenged. It for- 
tunately happened that there was a person of authority amongst the 
number, with whom Mr. Belcher effected a friendship. He expos- 
tulated with the two refractory men, and one of them went quietly 
away, but the other remained brandishing his weapon : and there is 
but too much reason to believe that, had he commenced an attack 
he would have been seconded by his countrymen, notwithstanding 
the interference of the chief. - 

When the ship's boat came to the relief of our party, Mr. Belcher 
ordered the man who had been so refractory to be bound and taken 
on board the ship, intimating to the others that he should be kept 
until more of the stolen property was returned. This they appear- 
ed perfectly to understand, as the prisoner pointed to his boat where, 
upon search being made, the other lock of the fowling-piece, and a 
haversack belonging to Lieutenant Belcher, were found. The 
strength of this man was so great that it required as many of our 
people as could stand round to pinion his arms and take him down 
to the boat. As soon as this was effected, all the other Esquimaux 
fled to their baidars, and did not approach the place again ; the 
chief excepted, who returned almost immediately, and pitched one 
tent for himself and another for the prisoner. Lieutenant Belcher 
in concluding his account of this disastrous affair, speaks in high 



1827.] and beering's strait. 463 

terms of commendation of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Rendall, William 
Aldrige and George Shields, seamen and of Thomas Hazlehurst, 
marine ; and it is with much pleasure I embrace the opportunity of 
giving publicity to their meritorious behaviour. 

I must exonerate Lieutenant Belcher from any blame that may 
attach to him as commander of the vessel ; for, though her loss was 
evidently occasioned by her being too close in shore, and by too 
few a number of persons being left on board, yet it is to be obser- 
ved that she was only a boat ; that the crew were upon the beach 
in readiness to assist her ; and that, had it been a case of ordinary 
nature, they would no doubt have succeeded in their object. In place 
of this, however, the wind changed suddenly, and the sea rose so 
fast that there was no possibility of effecting what, under general 
circumstances, would have been perfectly practicable ; the water 
besides, was two feet lower than usual. The strenuous exertions 
of Lieutenant Belcher to save the crew, and his resolute conduct 
toward the natives, after he was thrown amongst them unprovided 
with arms, a brace of pistols excepted, show him to be an officer 
both of humanity and courage. 

After the loss of our favourite boat, Parties were repeatedly sent 
to the wreck, in the hope of being able to raise her, or to procure 
what they could from her cabin and holds : but she was completely 
wrecked and filled with sand, and a few days afterwards went to 
pieces. Mr. Belcher was a great loser by this unfortunate accident, 
as he was well provided with instruments, books, papers, he, and 
had some expensive fowling-pieces and pistols, all of which were 
lost or spoiled ; and this was the more provoking, as some of them 
had been purchased to supply the place of those he had the misfor- 
tune to lose when upset in the cutter at Oeno Island. I am happy 
to say the government, on the representation of his peculiar case, 
made him a compensation. 

On the 12th the body of one of the seamen, Thomas Uren, was 
found near the place where the boat was wrecked ; and on the 
Sunday following it was attended to the grave by all the officers 
and ship's company. The place of interment was on the low point 
of Chamisso Island, by the side of our shipmate who had been 
buried there the preceding year. 

On the 13th we were visited by two baidars, and among their 
crews discovered the party who had visited the ship so early in the 
morning, when she was at the anchorage in August, one of whom 
drew his knife upon the first Lieutenant ; they were also of the 
party which made an attack upon our cutter in Eschscholtz Bay the 
preceding year. They had with them a few skins and some fish 
for sale, but they were scrupulous about what they took for them ; 
and on being ordered away late in the evening, they twanged their 



464 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept. 

bows in an insolent manner, and, pushed off about a couple of yards 
only. The officer of the watch desired them to go away, and at 
length presented a musket at the baidar,on which they fired an arrow 
into the sea in the direction of the ship, and paddled to the island, 
where we observed them take up their quarters. 

When the boats landed the next day to fill the casks, Mr. Smyth, 
who had charge of the party, was desired to arm his people, and 
to order the Esquimaux off the island if they were offensive to him, 
or interfered with the duty. On landing, the natives met him on the 
beach, and were very anxious to learn whether the muskets were 
loaded, and to be allowed to feel the edges of the cutlasses, and 
were not at all pleased at having their request refused. The arms 
were rolled up in the sail for the purpose of being kept dry, but one of 
the natives insisted on having the canvas unrolled, to see what it 
contained, and on being refused he drew his knife, and threatened 
the seamen who had charge of it. Coupling this act with the con- 
duct of the party on the before-mentioned occasions, Mr. Smyth 
ordered the arms to be loaded ; on which the natives fled to their 
baidar, and placed every thing in her in readiness to depart on a 
minute's warning, and then, armed with their bows and arrows and 
knives, they drew up on a small eminence, and twanged their bow- 
strings, as before, in defiance. A few minutes before this occurred, 
five of the party, who had separated from their companions, attack- 
ed two of our seamen, who were at some distance from Mr. Smyth, 
digging a grave for their unfortunate shipmate, and coming sudden- 
ly upon them, while in the pit, three of the party stood over the 
workmen with their drawn knives, while the others rifled the pock- 
ets of their jackets, which were lying at a little distance from the 
grave, and carried away the contents, together with an axe. The 
hostile disposition of the natives on the hill, who were drawn up in 
a line in a menacing atitude, with their bows ready strung, and their 
knives in their left hands, obliged Mr. Smyth to arm his people, 
and, in compliance with his instructions, to proceed to drive them 
off the island. He accordingly advanced upon them, and each in- 
dividual probably had singled out his victim, when an aged 
man of the Esquimaux party made offers of peace, and the arms of 
both parties were laid aside. The mediator signified that he wanted 
a tub, that had been left at the well, which was restored to him, and 
the axe that had been taken from the grave was returned to our 
party. The Esquimaux then embarked, and paddled towards Es- 
chscholtz Bay. 1 have been thus particular in describing the con- 
duct of these people, in consequence of a more tragical affair which 
occurred a few days afterwards. 

Strong winds prevented the completion of our water for several 
days ; but on the 29th it was in progress, when the same party land- 



1827.] and beering's strait. 465 

ed upon the island near our boat. The day being very fine, seve- 
ral of the officers had gone in pursuit of ptarmigan, which were about 
this time collecting in large flocks previous to their migration ; and 
I was completing a series of magnetical observations in another part 
of the island. The first lieutenant observing a baidar full of men 
approach the island, despatched Lieutenant Belcher to the place 
with orders to send them away, provided there were any of the 
party among them who had behaved in so disorderly a manner on 
the recent occasion. On landing, he immediately recognized one of 
the men, and ordered the whole party into the baidar. They com- 
plied very reluctantly ; and while our seamen were engaged push- 
ing them off, they were occupied in preparations for hostility, by 
putting on their eider-duck frocks over their usual dresses, and un- 
covering their bows and arrows. They paddled a few yards from 
the beach, and then rested in doubt as to what they should do; 
some menacing our party, and others displaying their weapons. 
Thus threatened, and the party making no attempt to depart, but 
rather propelling their baidar sidewise toward the land, Mr. Belch- 
er fired a ball between them and the shore, and waved them to be- 
gone. Instead of obeying his summons, they paddled on shore in- 
stantly, and quitted their baidar for a small eminence near the beach, 
from whence they discharged a flight of arrows, which wounded 
two of our seamen. Their attack was of course returned and one, 
of the party was wounded in the leg by a musket ball. 

Until this time they were ignorant of the effect of fire-arms, and no 
doubt placed much confidence in the thickness of their clothing, 
as, in addition to their eider-duck dress over their usual frock, they 
each bound a deer-skin round them as they quitted their baidar ; 
but seeing the furs availed nothing against a ball, they fled with 
precipitation to the hills ; and the commanding officer of the Blossom 
observing them running towards the place where 1 was engaged 
with the dipping needle, fired a gun from the ship, which first ap- 
prised me of anything being amiss. On the arrival of the cutter, 
I joined Mr. Belcher, and with a view of getting the natives into 
our possession, I sent a boat along the beach, and went with a party 
over land. We had not proceeded far, when suddenly four of the 
marines were wounded with arrows from a small ravine, in which we 
found a party so screened by long grass that it was not visible until 
we were close upon it. The natives were lying upon the ground, 
peeping between the blades of grass, and discharging their arrows as 
opportunity offered. In return, one of them suffered by a ball from 
Mr. Elson ; on which I stopped the firing, and endeavoured ineffec- 
tually to bring them to terms. After a considerable time, an elderly 
man came forward with his arms and breast covered with mud, 
motioned us to begone, and decidedly rejected all offers of recon- 

59 



466 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Sept- 

ciliation. Unwilling to chastise them further, I withdrew the party, 
and towed their baidar on board, which kept them prisoners upon 
the island. I did this in order to have an opportunity of bringing 
about a reconciliation, for I was unwilling to allow them to depart 
with sentiments which might prove injurious to any Europeans who 
might succeed us; and I thought that by detaining them we should 
be able to convince them our resentment was unjustifiably provok- 
ed, and that when they conducted themselves properly, they should 
command our friendship. This baidar had a large incision in her 
bottom, made by the person who last quitted her when the party 
landed, and must have been done either with a view of preventing 
her being carried away, or by depriving themselves of the means of 
escape, showing their resolution to conquer or die. We repaired 
her as well as we could, and kept her in readiness to be restored to 
her owners on the first favourable opportunity that offered. 

The next morning a boat was sent to bring them to friendly 
terms, and to return every thing that was in the baidar, except some 
fish which they had brought for sale, in lieu of which some blue 
beads and tobacco were left, but the natives were averse to recon- 
ciliation, and kept themselves concealed. The night was severely 
cold, with snow showers; and next day, seeing nothing of the par- 
ty, the baidar was returned. The natives removed her during the 
night to the opposite side of the island, where she appeared to be 
undergoing an additional repair; but we saw none of the people, 
who must have secreted themselves on the approach of the boat. 
We took every opportunity of showing them we wished to obtain 
their friendship, but to no purpose ; they would not make their ap- 
pearance, and the next night decamped, leaving a few old skins in 
return for the articles we had left them.— On examining the ravine 
in which they had concealed themselves, we found one man lying 
dead, with his bow and quiver, containing five arrows, placed under 
his body, and clothed in the same manner as when he quitted the 
baidar. The ravine was conveniently adapted to the defence of a 
party, being narrow, with small banks on each side of it, behind 
which a party might discharge their arrows without much danger to 
themselves until they became closely beset ; to obviate which as 
much as possible, and to sell their lives as dearly as they could, we 
found they had constructed pits in the earth by scooping out holes 
sufficiently large to contain a man, and by banking up the mud 
above them. There were five of these excavations close under 
the edges of the banks, which were undermined; one at the head 
of the ravine, and two on each side, about three yards lower down 
the latter had a small communication at the bottom, through which 
an arrow might be transferred from one person to another, without 
incurring the risk of being seen by passing it over the top. The 



1827.] and beering's strait. 467 

construction of these pits must have occupied the man who presen- 
ted himself to us with his arms covered with mud ; as a defence 
they were as perfect as circumstances would allow, and while they 
show the resources of the people, they mark a determinaton of ob- 
stinate resistance. 

The effect of the arrows was fully as great as might have been 
expected, and had they been properly directed, would have inflic- 
ted mortal wounds. At the distance of a hundred yards a flesh 
wound was produced in the thigh, which disabled the man for a 
time ; and at eight or ten yards another fixed the right arm of a ma- 
rine to his side : a third buried itself two inches an a half under the 
scalp. The wounds which they occasioned were obliged to be ei- 
ther enlarged, to extract the arrows, which were barbed, or to have 
an additional incision made, that the arrow might be pushed through 
without further laceration. Most of these wounds were inflicted by 
an arrow with a bone head, tipped with a pointed piece of jaspar 

We were sorry to find our musketry had inflicted so severe a 
chastisement upon these people but it was unavoidable and richly 
deserved. It was some consolation to reflect that it had fallen upon 
a party from whom we had received repeated insult, and it was not 
until after they had threatened our boat in Eschscholtz Bay, insulted 
us along side of the ship, defied our party on shore, had twice drawn 
their knives upon our people, and had wounded several of them, 
that they were made acquainted with the nature of our fire arms ; 
and I am convinced the example will have a good effect by teach- 
ing them that it was forbearance alone that induced us to tolerate 
their conduct so long. 

For the purpose of keeping together the particulars of our trans- 
actions with the Esquimaux, I have omitted to mention several oc- 
currences in the order in which they transpired. Many circum- 
stances indicated the earlier approach of winter than we had expe- 
rienced the preceding year. About the middle of September, there- 
fore, we began to prepare the ship for her departure, by completing 
the water, taking on board stone ballast, in lieu of the provisions 
that had been expended, and refitting the rigging. These operations 
were for several days interrupted by strong westerly winds, which 
occasioned much sea at the anchorage, and very unaccountably had 
the effect of producing remarkably low tides, and of checking the 
rise which on several occasions was scarcely perceptible. 

On the 18th a party of the officers landed in Eschscholtz Bay to 
search for fossils, but they were unsuccessful ; in consequence of an 
irregularity in the tide, which was on that occasion unaccountably 
high, and scarcely fell during the day. The cliffs had broken away 
considerably since the preceding year ; and the frozen surface of the 
cliff appeared in smaller quantities than before, but. the earth was 



468 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

found congealed at a less depth from the top. This examination 
tended to confirm more steadfastly the opinion that the ice forms 
only a coating to the cliff, and is occasioned by small streams of wa- 
ter oozing out, which either become congealed themselves in their 
descent, or convert into ice the snow which rests in the hollows. 

On the 24th and 2Sth the nights were clear and frosty, and the 
aurora borealis was seen, forming several arches. On the 28th the 
display was very brilliant and interesting, as it had every appearance 
of being between the clouds and the earth; and, after one of these 
displays, several meteors were observed issuing from parts of the 
arch, and falling obliquely toward the earth. This was also one of 
the rare instances of the aurora being; seen to the southward of our 
zenith. 

In the beginning of October we had sharp frosts and heavy falls 
of snow. On the 4th the earth was deeply covered and the lakes 
were frozen : the thermometer during the night fell to 25°, and at 
noon on the 5th to 24°, and there was every appearance of the win- 
ter having commenced. It therefore became my duty seriously to 
consider on the propriety of continuing longer in these seas. We 
had received no intelligence of Captain Franklin's party, nor was it 
very probable that it could now appear; and we couid only hope, 
as the time had arrived when it would be imperative on us to with- 
draw from him the only relief he could experience in these seas, 
that he had met with insurmountable obstacles to his proceeding, 
and had retraced his route up the M'Kenzie River. 

Anxious, however, to remain to the last, on the chance of being 
useful to him, I again solicited the opinions of the officers as to the 
state of the season, and finding them unanimous in believing the 
winter to have commenced, and that the ship could not remain 
longer in Kotzebue Sound with safety, I determined to quit the an- 
chorage the moment the wind would permit. Weighing the proba- 
bility of Captain Franklin's arrival at this late period in the season, 
no one on board, I believe, thought there was the smallest chance 
of it; for, had his prospects the pereceding year been such as to 
justify his wintering upon the coast, the distance remaining to be ac- 
complished in the present season would have been so short that he 
could scarcely fail to have performed it early in the summer in which 
case we must have seen him long before this date, unless, indeed, he 
had reached Icy Cape and found it advisable to return by his own 
route, a contingency authorised by his instructions. Upon the 
chance of his arrival after the departure of the ship, the provision 
that had been buried for his use, was allowed to remain, and the 
billet of wood was again deposited on the island, containing a state- 
ment of the behavior of the natives and of other particulars, with 
which it vyas important that he should be made acquainted.. 



1827.] and beering's strait. 469 

On the 6th, sharp frosty weather continuing, we weighed from 
Chamisso, and beat out of the sound. In pasing Cape Krusenstern 
we perceived a blink in the N.W. direction, similar to that over ice 
and it is not unlikely that the westerly winds which were so prevalent 
all the summer had drifted it from the Asiatic shore, where it rests 
against the land in a much lower parallel than upon the American 
coast. 

As we receded from the sound the wind freshened from the N.W. 
with every appearance of a gale ; we kept at a reasonable distance 
from the land until day-light and then steered toAvards Cape Prince 
of Wales, with a view of passing Beering's Strait. Our depth of 
water thus far had been about fifteen fathoms, but at eleven o'clock 
in the forenoon it began to diminish and the sea being high, the course 
was altered, to increase our distance from the coast: we had scarce- 
ly clone this when the water shoaled still more and a long line of 
breakers was observed stretching from the land, crossing our course 
and extending several miles to windward. The weather was so ha- 
zy that we could scarcely see the land ; but it was evident that we- 
had run down between the coast and a shoal, and as there was no 
pa'ospect of being able to weather the land on the opposite tack>, the 
only alternative was to force the ship through the breakers, we ac- 
cordingly steered for those parts where the sea broke the least and 
kept the ship going at the rate of seven knots, in order as the shoal 
appeared to be very narrow that she might not hang, in the event 
of touching the ground. 

The sea ran very high, and we entered the broken water in breath- 
less suspense, as there was very little prospect of saving the ship, in, 
the event of her becoming fixed upon the shoal. Four fathoms and 
a half was communicated from the channels, a depth in which it 
may be reccollected we disturbed the bottom in crossing the bar of 
San Francisco ; the same depth was again reported and we pursued; 
our course momentarily expecting to strike. Fortunately this was? 
the least depth of water, and before long our soundings increased to 
twenty fathoms, when, having escaped the danger, we resumed our 
course for the strait. 

This shoal, which appears to extend from Cape Prince of Wales, 
taking the direction of the current through the strait, is extremly 
dangerous, in consequence of the water shoaling so suddenly, and 
having deep water within it, by which a ship coming from the north- 
ward may be led down between the shoal and the land, without any 
suspicion of her danger. Though we had nothing less than twenty- 
seven feet water, as near as the soundings could be ascertained in so 
high a sea, yet, from the appearance of the breakers outside the 
place where the ship crossed, the depth is probably less. It is re- 
markable that this spit of sand, extending so far as it does from the 



470 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

land, should have hitherto escaped the observation of the Russians, 
as well as of our countrymen. Cook, in his chart, marks five fath- 
oms close off the cape, and Kotzebue three, but this spit appeared 
to extend six or seven miles from it. It is true that the weather 
was very hazy, and we might have been deceived in our distance 
from the shore : but it is also probable that the spit may be extend- 
ing itself rapidly. 

We passed Beering's Strait about one o'clock, as usual with a 
close reefed topsail breeze, and afterwards ran with a fresh gale 
until midnight, when, as I wished to see the eastern end of St Law- 
rence Island, we rounded to for daylight. It was, however, of lit- 
tle consequence, as the weather was so foggy the next day that we 
could not see far around us. As we approached the island, flocks 
of alca crestatella and of the eider and king ducks, and several spe- 
cies of phalaropes, flew about us, but no land was distinguished. 
About noon, the water shoaling gradually to eleven fathoms, creat- 
ed a doubt whether we were not running upon the island ; but, on 
altering the course to the eastward, it deepened again, and by the 
observations of the next day it appeared that the ship had passed 
over a shoal lying between St. Lawrence Island and the main. It 
is a curious fact, that this shoal is precisely in the situation assigned 
to a small island which Captain Cook named after his surgeon, Mr. 
Anderson ; and as that island has never been seen since, many per- 
sons, relying upon the general accuracy of that great navigator, 
might suppose the island to have been sunk by some such convul- 
sion as raised the island of Amnuk in the same sea ; while others 
might take occasion from this fact to impeach the judgment of Cook. 
I am happy to have an opportunity of reconciling opinions on this 
subject, having discovered a note by Captain Bligh, who was the 
master with Captain Cook, written in pencil on the margin of the 
Admiralty copy of Cook's third voyage, by which it is evident that 
the compilers of the chart have overlooked certain data collected off 
the eastern end of St. Lawrence Island, on the return of the expe- 
dition from Norton Sound, and, that the land, named Anderson's 
Island, was the eastern end of the island St. Lawrence ; and had 
Cook's life been spared he would no doubt have made the necessa- 
ry correction in his chart. 

Thick weather continued until the 10th, when, after some hard 
showers of snow, it dispersed, and afforded us an opportunity of 
determining the position of the ship, by observation, which agreed 
very nearly with the reckoning, and showed there had been no cur- 
rent of consequence. Two days afterwards we saw the island of 
St. Paul, and endeavoured to close it, in order to examine its outline, 
and compare our observations with those of the preceding year ; 
but the wind obliged us to pass at the distance of eight miles to the 



1827.] and beering's strait. 471 

eastward, and we could only accomplish the latter. The next 
morning we passed to the eastward of St. George's Island, and fix- 
ed its position also. This was the island we were anxious to see 
the preceding year, as its situation upon our chart was very uncer- 
tain, and in some of the most approved charts it is omitted alto- 
gether. 

Offhere we observed a number of shags, a few albatrosses, flocks 
of ortolans, and a sea otter. 

At daylight on the 14th, we saw the Aleutian Islands, and steer- 
ed for an opening which by our reckoning should have been the 
same strait through which we passed on a former occasion ; but, 
the islands being covered more than halfway down with a dpnse fog, 
we were unable to ascertain our position correctly ; and it was not 
until the latitude was determined by observation that we discovered 
we were steering for the wrong passage. This mistake was oc- 
casioned by current S. 34° W. true, at the rate of nearly three 
miles an hour, which in the last twelve hours had drifted the ship 
thirty-five miles to the westward of her expected position. For- 
tunately the wind was fair, and enabled us to correct our error by 
carrying a press of sail. Before sunset we got sight of the Needle 
Rock in the channel of Oonemak, and passed through the strait. 
The strength and uncertainty of the currents about these islands 
should make navigators very cautious how they approach them in 
thick weather : whenever there is any doubt, the most certain course 
is to steer due east, and make the Island of Oonemak, which may 
be known by its latitude, being thirty miles more northerly than any 
other part of the chain ; and then to kept along its shores at the 
distance of four or five miles, until the Needle Rock, which lies 
nearly opposite the Island of Coogalga, is passed ; after which the 
coast on both sides trends nearly east and west, and a ship has an 
open sea before her. 

The Aleutian Islands, when we passed, were covered about two- 
thirds of the way down with snow, and indicated an earlier winter 
than they had done the preceding year. 



Having taken our final leave of Beering's Strait, all hope of the 
attainment of the principal object of the expedition in the Polar sea 
was at an end ; and the fate of the expedition under Captain Frank- 
lin, which was then unknown to us, was a subject of intense interest. 
Amidst the disappointment this failure in meeting with him had 
occasioned us, we had the consolation of knowing that, whatever 
vicissitudes might have befallen his party, our efforts to maintain 
our station in both years had, by the blessing of Providence, been 
successful, so that at no period of the appointed time of rendezvous 



472 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [ Oct. 

could he have missed both the boat and the ship, or have arrived 
at the appointed place in Kotzebue Sound without finding the 
anticipated relief. 

The enterprising voyage of Captain Franklin down the Macken- 
zie, and along the northern shores of the continent of America, is 
now familiar to us all ; and, considering that the distance between 
the extremities of our discoveries was less than fifty leagues, and 
that, giving him ten days to perform it in, he would have arrived at 
Point Barrow at the precise period with our boat, we must ever re- 
gret that he could not have been made acquainted with our advan- 
ced situation, as in that case he would have been justified in incur- 
ring a risk which would have been unwarrantable under any other 
circumstances. Let me not for a moment be supposed by this to 
detract one leaf from the laurels that have been gained by Captain 
Franklin and his enterprising associates, who, through obstacles 
which would have been insurmountable by persons of less da- 
ring and persevering minds, have brought us acquainted with an 
extent of country which, added to the discovery it was our good 
fortune to push so far along the shore to the westward of them, 
has left a very small portion of the coast unknown. 

The extent of land thus left unexplored between Point Turna- 
gain and Icy Cape, is comparatively so insignificant that, as regards 
the question of the north-west passage, it may be considered to be 
known ; and in this point of view both expeditions, though they 
did not meet, may be said to have been fully successful. From 
the nature and similarity of the coast at Return Reef and Point 
Barrow, it is very probable that the land from Franklin Extreme 
trends gradually to the eastward to Return Reef, leaving Point 
Barrow in latitude 71°23' 30" N. the northern limit of the continent 
of America. 

The determination of this great geographical question is undoubt- 
edly important ; but though it sets a boundary to the new continent, 
and so far diminishes the difficulties attending an attempt to effect a 
passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, yet it leaves the practica- 
bility of the North-west Passage nearly as doubtful as ever ; and it 
it is evident that it cannot be otherwise, until the obstructions set 
forth in Captain Parry's voyage are removed, as it would avail little 
to be able to reach Hecla and Fury Strait, provided that channel 
were always impassable. 

From what has been set forth, in the foregoing narrative of our 
proceedings, it is nearly certain that, by watching the opportunity, 
a vessel may reach Point Barrow, and in all probability proceed 
beyond it. Had we been permitted to make this attempt, we should 
no doubt be able to speak more positively upon the subject ; and, 
as I have always been of opinion that a navigation may be perform- 



1827.] and beering's strait, 473 

ed along any'coast of the Polar Sea that is continuous, \1 can see no in- 
surmountable obstacle to the exploit. In this attempt, however, it 
is evident that a vessel must be prepared to encounter very heavy 
pressure from the ice, and must expect, on the ice closing the coast 
to the westward of Point Barrow, which it unquestionably would 
with every strong westerly wind, to be driven on shore in the man- 
ner in which our boat was in 1826. 

As regards the question whether it be advisable to attempt the 
passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, the advantage of being 
able to pursue the main land with certainty from Icy Cape is un- 
questionably great ; and the recollection that in that route every 
foot gained to the eastward is an advance towards the point whence 
supplies and succour may be obtained, is a cheering prospect to those 
who are engaged in such an expedition. But while I so far advo- 
cate an attempt from this quarter, it must not be overlooked that 
the length of the voyage round Cape Horn, and the vicisitudes of 
climate to be endured, present material objections to prosecuting 
the enterprise by that course. 

It does not appear that any preference can be given to the west- 
ern route from prevailing winds or currents, as both are so variable 
and uncertain^ that no dependence can be placed upon them. Iri 
1826 easterly winds prevailed almost throughout the summer, both 
on the northern coast of America, and in the open sea to the west- 
ward of Icy cape : while in 1827,in the latter situation at least, the re- 
verse took place. And as the coincidence of winds experienced by 
Captain Franklin and ourselves in 1826 is very remarkable, there is 
every probability that the same winds prevailed to the eastward of 
Point Barrow. 

The current, though it unquestionably sets to the northward 
through Beering's Strait, in the summer at least, does not appear to 
influence the sea on the northern coast of America which is naviga- 
ble ; as Captain Franklin, after the experience of a whole season, 
was unable to detect any current in either direction. In the sea to 
the westward of Icy Cape> the current setting through Beering's 
Strait is turned off by Point Mope, and does not appear to have any 
perceptible influence on the water to the north-eastward of Icy 
Cape ; for the current there, though it ran strong at times, seemed 
to be influenced entirely by the prevailing wind. The body of 
water which finds its way into the Polar Sea must undoubtedly have 
an outlet, and one of these appears to be the Strait of Hecla and 
Fury : but as this current is not felt between the ice and the con- 
tinent of America, the only part of the sea that is navigable, it 
must rather impede than favour, the enterprise, by blocking the ice 
against both the strait, and the western coast of Melville Peninsula. 
Upon the whole, however, I am disposed to favour the western 

60 



474 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

route, and am of opinion that could steam vessels properly fitted, 
and adapted to the service, arrive in good condition in Kotzebue 
Sound, by the beginning of one summer they might with care and 
patience succeed in reaching the western shore of Melville Penin- 
sula in the next. There, however, they would undoubtedly be 
stopped, and have to encounter difficulties which had repulsed three 
of the most persevering attempts ever made toward the accomplish- 
ment of a similar object. 

I shall now offer a few remarks upon the inhabitants whom we 
met upon this coast. 

The western Esquimaux appear to be intimately connected with 
the tribes inhabiting the northern and north-eastern shores of Amer- 
ica, in language, features, manners, and customs. They at the 
same time, in many respects, resemble the Tschutschi, from whom 
they are probably descended. These affinities I shall notice as I 
proceed with my remarks upon the people inhabiting the north- 
west coast of America, whom for the convenience of the reader, I 
shall call the western Esquimaux, in order to distinguish them from 
the tribes inhabiting Hudson's Bay, Greenland, Igloolik, and indeed 
from all the places eastward of Point Barrow. This line ought 
properly to be drawn at M'Kenzie River, in consequence of certain 
peculiarities connecting the people seen near that spot with the tribe 
to the westward : but it will be more convenient to confine it within 
the above-mentioned limits. 

These people inhabit the north-west coast of America, from 60° 
34' N. to 71° 24' N.j and are a nation of fishermen dwelling upon 
or near the sea shore, from which they derive almost exclusively 
their subsistence. 

They construct yourts or winter residences upon those parts of 
the shore which are adapted to their convenience, such as the 
mouths of rivers, the entrances of inlets, or jutting points of land, 
but always upon low ground. They form themselves into commu- 
nities, which seldom exceed a hundred persons ; though in some 
few instances they have amounted to upwards of two hundred. Be- 
tween the above mentioned limits we noticed nineteen of these vil- 
lages, some of which were very small, and consisted only of a few 
huts, and others appeared to have been deserted a long time ; 
but allowing them all to be inhabited in the winter, the whole pop- 
ulation, I should think, including Kow-ee-rock, would not amount 
to more than 2500 persons. I do not pretend to say that this esti- 
mate is accurate, as from the manner in which the people are disper- 
sed along the coast in the summer, it is quite impossible that it should 
be so ; but it may serve to show that the tribe is not very numer- 
ous. 

As we landed upon every part of the coast, to which these villa- 



1827.] and beeiung's strait. 475 

ges appear to be confined, it is not likely that many escaped our 
observation ; neither is it probable that there are many inland or 
far up the rivers, as frequent access to the sea is essential to the hab- 
its of the people. Besides, this may further be inferred, from the 
circumstance of no Esquimaux villages being found up either the 
M'Kenzie or Coppermine Rivers, and from the swampy nature of 
the country in general and the well known hostile disposition of the 
Indians towards the Esquimaux. 

Their yourts or winter residences are partly excavated in the 
earth and partly covered with moss laid upon poles of drift-wood. 
There are however several kinds of habitations which seem to vary 
in their construction according to the nature of the ground and the 
taste of the inhabitants. Some are wholly above ground, others 
have their roof scarcely raised above it ; some resemble those of the 
Tschutschi, and others those of the natives near Prince William 
Sound ; but they all agree in being constructed with drift wood cov- 
ered with peat, and in having the light admitted through a hole in 
the roof covered with the intestines of sea animals. The natives re- 
side in these abodes during the winter and when the season ap- 
proaches at which they commence their wanderings they launch 
their baidars and taking their families with them, spread along the 
coast in quest of food and clothing for the ensuing winter. An ex- 
perienced fisherman knows the places which are most abundant in 
fish and seals, and resorts thither in the hope of being the first 
occupier of the station. Thus almost every point of land and the 
mouths of all the rivers are taken possession of by the tribe. Here 
they remain, and pass their time, no doubt, very happily, in the 
constant occupation of taking salmon, seals, walrusses, and reindeer, 
and collecting peltry, of which the beaver skins are of very supe- 
rior quality, or whatever else they can procure which may prove 
useful as winter store. 

During their absence the villages are left in charge of a few el- 
derly women and children, with a youth or two to assist them, who 
besides preventing depredations, are deputed to cleanse and pre- 
pare the yourts for the reception of the absentees at the approach of 
winter. As long as the fine weather lasts they live under tents 
made of deer-skins laced upon poles ; but about the middle of Sep- 
tember, they break up these establishments load their baidars with 
the produce of their labour, and track them along the coast with 
dogs towards their yourts, in which they take up their winter station 
as before, and regale themselves after their success, by dancing sing- 
ing and banquetting ; as appears to be the custom with the Eastern 
Esquimaux, and from their having large rooms appropriated to such 
diversions. 

These winter stations may be always known at a distance by trunks 



476 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

of trees, and frames erected near them ; some supporting sledges 
and skins of oil, and others the scantling of boats, caiacs, fishing im- 
plements, &,c. 

We had no opportunity of witnessing their occupations in the 
winter, which must consist in the construction of implements for the 
forthcoming season of activity, in making clothes and carving and 
ornamenting their property, for almost every article made of bone 
is covered with devices. They appear to have no king or gover- 
nor, but, like the patriarchal tribes, to venerate and obey the aged. 
They have sometimes a great fear of the old women who pretend to 
witchcraft. 

It seems probable that their religion is the same as that of the 
Eastern Esquimaux, and that they have similar conjurers and sor- 
cerors. We may infer that they have an idea of a future state, 
from the fact of their placing near the graves of their departed 
friends the necessary implements for procuring a subsistence in this 
world, such as harpoons, bows, and arrows, caiacs, Sic. and by 
clothing the body decently ; and from the circumstance of musical 
instruments being suspended to the poles of the sepulchres, it would 
seem that they consider such state not to be devoid of enjoyments. 
Their mode of burial differs from that of the Eastern Esquimaux, 
who inter their dead ; whereas these people dispose the corpse upon 
a platform of wood, and raise a pile over it with young trees. The 
position in which the bodies are laid also differs ; the head being 
placed to the westward by this nation, while in the eastern tribes it 
lies to the north-east. 

They are taller in stature than the Eastern Esquimaux, their aver- 
age height being about five feet seven and a half inches. They are 
also a better looking race, if 1 may judge from the natives I saw in 
Baffin's Bay, and from the portraits of others that have been pub- 
lished. At a comparatively early age, however, they (the women 
in particular) soon lose this comeliness, and old age is attended with 
a haggard and care-worn countenance, rendered more unbecoming 
by sore eyes, and by teeth worn to the gums by frequent mastica- 
tion of hard substances. 

They differ widely in disposition from the inhabitants of Igloo- 
lik and Greenland, being more continent, industrious, and provident 
and rather partaking of the warlike, irascible, and uncourteous tem- 
per of the Tschutschi. Neither do they appear by any means so 
deficient in filial affection as the natives of Igloolik, who as soon as 
they commenced their summer exertions left their aged and infirm 
to perish in the villages ; of whom it will be recollected that one 
old man, in particular, must have fallen a victim to this unnatural 
neglect, had not his horrible fate been arrested by the timely hu- 
manity of the commander of the polar expedition. 



1 827. J and beering's strait. 477 

With the Western Esquimaux, as indeed with almost all uncivi- 
lized tribes, hospitality seems to form one characteristic feature of 
the disposition ; as if Nature, by the gift of this virtue, had intended 
to check, in some measure that ferocity which is otherwise so pre- 
dominant. 

Smoking is their favourite habit, in which they indulge as long as 
their tobacco lasts. Parties assemble to enjoy the fumes of this 
narcotic, and the pipe passes round like the calumet of the Indians 
but apparently without the ceremony being binding. Their pipes are 
short, and the bowls of some contain no more tobacco than can be 
consumed in a long whiff; indeed,the great pleasure of the party often 
consists in individuals endavouring to excel each other in exhausting 
the contents of the bowl at one breath, and many a laugh is indul- 
ged at the expense of him who fails, or who, as is very frequently 
the case, is thrown into a fit of coughing by the smoke getting into 
his lungs. 

They seldom use tobacco in any other way than this, though 
some natives whom we saw to the southward of Beering's Strait 
were not averse to chewing it, and the St. Lawrence islanders indul- 
ged in snuff. Their predilection for tobacco is no doubt derived 
from the Tschutschi, who are passionately fond of it, that they are 
said, by Captain Cochrane, to snuff, chew, and smoke, all at the 
same time. The practice of adulterating tobacco is common with, 
the Tschutschi, and has, no doubt, passed from them to the Esqui- 
maux, who often adopt it from choice. That which finds its way 
to the N.W. coast of America is of very inferior quality, and often 
has dried wood chopped up with it. 

The ornaments worn in the lip, described in the course of this, 
narrative, are peculiar to the males of the Western Esquimaux, and 
are in use only from Norton Sound, where they were seen by Cap- 
tain King, to the Mackenzie River, where they were worn by the- 
party which attacked Captain Franklin. The practice is by no* 
means modern, as Deschnew, as far back as 1648, describes the in-, 
habitants of the islands opposite Tschutskoi Noss as having pieces ; 
of sea-horse tusk thrust into holes in their lips. No lip ornaments 
similar to these have been seen to the eastward of the Mackenzie 
River ; and indeed we know of no other tribe which has adopted 
this singular custom of disfiguring the face, except that inhabiting 
the coast near Prince William Sound, and even there the arrange- 
ment differs. It is remarkable that the practice with them is con- 
fined to the women, while in the tribe to the northward it is limited 
to the men. It is also singular, that this barbarous custom of the 
males is confined to so small a portion of the coast, while that by 
which the females are distinguished extends from Greenland, along 
the northern and western shores of America, down to California. 



478 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

Nasal ornaments, so common with the tribes to the southward of 
Oonalaska, were seen by us in one instance only, and were then 
worn by the females of a party whose dialect differed from that in 
general use with the tribe to the westward of Point Barrow. The 
custom disappears to the northward of Alaska, and occurs again in 
the tribe near the Mackenzie River. A similar break in the link 
of fashion in the same nation may be traced in the practice of shav- 
ing the crown of the head, which is general with the Western Es- 
quimaux, ceases at the Mackenzie River, and appears again in 
Hudson's Bay, and among a tribe of Greenlanders, who, when they 
were discovered by Captain Ross, had been so long excluded from 
intercourse with any other people, that they imagined themselves 
the only living human beings upon the face of the globe.* 

It was remarked that the inhabitants of Point Barrow had copper 
kettles, and were in several respects better supplied with European 
articles than the people who resided to the southward. Captain 
Franklin found among the Esquimaux near the Mackenzie several 
of these kettles, and other manufactures, which were so unlike those 
supplied by the North-west Company, as to leave no doubt of their 
being obtained from the westward. Connecting these facts with the 
behavior of the natives who visited us off Wainwright Inlet, and the 
information obtained by Augustus, the interpreter, it is very proba- 
ble that between the Mackenzie River and Point Barrow there is 
an agent who receives these articles from the Asiatic coast, and parts 
Math them in exchange for furs. Augustus learned from the Es- 
quimaux that the people from whom these articles were procured 
resided up the river to the westward of Return Reef. The copper 
kettles, in all probability, come from the Russians, as the Tschut- 
schi have such an aversion to utensils made of that metal, that they 
will not even use one when lined with tin.f From the cautious 
manner in which the whole tribe dispose of their furs, reserving the 
most valuable for larger prices than we felt inclined to give, and 
sometimes producing only the inferior ones, we were induced to sus- 
pect that there were several Esquimaux acting as agents upon the 
coast, properly instructed by their employers in Kamschatka, who 
having collected the best furs from the natives, crossed over with 
them to the Asiatic coast, and returned with the necessary articles 
for the purchase of others. 

I regret that we never had an opportunity of seeing the Esqui- 
maux in pursuit of their game, or in any way actively employed, 
except in transporting their goods along the coast. One cause for 
this is that they relinquished all occupation on our appearance, to 

* See a letter from Captain Edward Sabine, Journal of Science, vol. vii.. 
t Captain Cochrane' s Journey in Siberia. 



1827.] AND BEERINc's STRAIT. 479 

obtain some of the riches that were on board the ship. It may, 
however, be inferred, from the carvings upon their ivory imple- 
ments, that their employments are numerous, and very similar to 
those practised by the Greenlanders. Of these, rein-deer hunting 
appears to be the most common. If we may credit the sculptured 
instruments, they shoot these animals with bows and arrows, which, 
from the shyness of the deer, must require great skill and artifice to 
effect. The degree of skill may be inferred from the distance at 
which some of the parties are drawn shooting their arrows, and the 
artifice is shown by a device of a deer's head and horns placed 
upon the shoulders of a person creeping on all-fours towards the an- 
imal, after the manner of the Californian Indians, and of some of 
the inland tribes of North America. We found the flint head of an 
arrow which had been used for this purpose broken in a haunch of 
venison that was purchased from the inhabitants near Icy Cape. 
In some of the representations the deer are seen swimming in the 
water, and the Esquimaux harpooning them from their caiacs, in 
the manner represented in the plate in Captain Parry's Second 
Voyage, p. 508. 

As an instance of their method of killing whales, we found a har- 
poon in one that was dead, with a drag attached to it made of an 
inflated seal-skin. It must be extremely difficult for these people, 
with their slender means, to capture these enormous animals, and it 
must require considerable perseverance. The occupation, howev- 
er, appears to be less hazardous than of killing walrusses, which, by 
the devices upon the instruments, occasionally attack the caiacs. 
The implements for taking these animals are the same as described 
by Captain Parry. Seals are also captured in the manner describ- 
ed by him. Upon some of the bone implements there are correct 
representations of persons creeping along the ice towards their prey, 
which appears to have been decoyed by an inflated seal-skin placed 
near the edge of the ice ; an artifice frequently practised by the 
eastern tribes. These animals are also taken in very strong nets 
made of walrus-hide ; and another mode is by harpooning them with 
a dart about five feet in length, furnished with a barb, which is dis- 
engaged from its socket when it strikes the animal, and being fasten- 
ed by a line to the centre of the staff, the harpoon acts as a drag. 
This instrument is discharged with a throwing board, which is easi- 
ly used, and gives very great additional force to the dart, and in the 
hands of a skillful person will send a dart to a considerable distance. 
The throwing board is mentioned also by Captain Parry, by Crantz, 
and others, and corresponds with the ivomoru of New Zealand. 

We noticed in the possession of a party to the northward of Kot- 
zebue Sound a small ivory instrument, similar to the JceijjJciittuk of 
the Igloolik tribe. 



480 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct , 

Birds are likewise struck with darts which resemble the nuguit 
of Greenland; they are also caught in whalebone snares, and by 
having their flight arrested by a number of balls attached to thongs 
about two feet in length : they are sometimes shot with arrows pur- 
posely constructed with blunt heads. 

The practice of firing at a mark appears to be one of the amuse- 
ments of the Esquimaux ; and judging from what we saw at Cham- 
isso Island there are some extraordinary performers in this way 
among the tribe. One day a diver was swimming at the distance 
of thirty yards from the beach, and a native was offered a reward 
if he would shoot it : he fired, but the bird evaded the arrow by 
diving. The Esquimaux watched its coming to the surface, and 
the instant his head appeared he transfixed both eyes with his arrow. 
He was rewarded for his skilfulness, and the skin was preserved as 
a specimen of ornithology and of Indian archery. Generally speak- 
ing, however, I do not think they are expert marksmen. 

Their bows are shaped differently to those of Igloolik, and are 
superior to any on the eastern coast of America ; they are, how- 
ever, made upon the same principle, with sinews and wedges at the 
back of the wood. On the western coast driftwood is so abundant 
that the inhabitants have their choice of several trees, and are nev- 
er obliged to piece their implements. It requires some care to bring 
a bow to the form which they consider best ; and for this purpose 
they wrap it in shavings soaked in water, and hold it over a fire ; 
it is then pegged down upon the earth in the form required. If 
not attended to when used, the bows are apt to get out of order, 
and the string to slip out of its place, by which the bow bends the 
wrong way, and is easily broken. 

In these bows the string is in contact with about a foot of the 
wood at each end, and when used makes a report which would be 
fatal to secrecy. The Californians, accustomed to fight in ambush, 
are very careful to have that part of the string muffled with fur, but 
I never saw any precaution of the kind used by the Esquimaux. 
To protect the wrist from the abrasion which would ensue from 
frequent firing, the Esquimaux buckle on a piece of ivory called 
mun-era. about three or four inches long, hollowed out to the wrist 
or a gaurd made of several pieces of ivory or wood fastened 
together like an ironholder. 

Fishing implements are more numerous and varied with the 
Western Esquimaux than with the others, and some are constructed 
with much neatness and ingenuity ; but I do not know that any of 
them require description except a landing net, and that only because 
it is not mentioned by Captain Parry. This consists of a circular 
frame of wood or bone, about eight inches in diameter, worked, 
across with whalebone like the bottoms of cane chairs, and fixed 
upon a long wooden handle. 



1327.] and beering's strait. 481 

Of all their manufactures, that of ivory chains is the most inge- 
nious. These are cut out of solid pieces of ivory, each link being 
separately relieved, and are sometimes twenty-six inches in length. 
For what purpose they are used I know not ; but part of the last 
link is frequently left solid, and formed in imitation of a whale ; 
and these chains being strong, they may in some way or other be 
appropriated to the capture of that animal. 

Among a great many singularly shaped tools in the possession of 
these people, we noticed several that are not in Captain Parry's 
catalogue, such as instruments for breaking wood short off; small 
hand chisels, consisting of pieces of hard stone fixed in bone han- 
dles adapted to the palm of the hand ; meshes for making nets ; an 
instrument made with the claws of a seal, for cleansing skins of 
their fat, &c. Though I never saw the screw in use among this 
tribe, yet I found a worm properly cut upon the end of one of their 
fishing implements. The panna, or double-edged knife, is also in 
use with these people ; some of them were inlaid with brass, and 
undoubtedly came from the Tschutschi. 

The language of the Western Esquimaux so nearly resembles 
that of the tribes to the eastward, as scarcely to need any further 
mention, particularly after the fact of Augustus, who was a native 
of Hudson's Bay, being able to converse with the Esquimaux whom 
he met at the mouth of the Mackenzie River. It may, however 
be useful to show, by means of a vocabulary compiled from the 
people we visited, how nearly it coincides with that given by Cap- 
tain Parry ; some allowances being made for the errors to which all 
collectors are liable, who can only make themselves understood by 
signs, and who collate from small parties, residing perhaps at a dis- 
tance from each other, and who, though they speak the same 
language, may make use of a different dialect. It does not appear 
that this language extends much beyond Norton Sound, certainly 
not down to Oonalashka ; for the natives of that island, who are 
sometimes employed by the Russians as interpreters, are of no use 
on the American coast, near Beering's Strait. The language, 
notwithstanding, has a great affinity, and may be radically the 
same. 

It is unnecessary to pursue further the peculiarities of these people, 
which are so similar to those of the eastern tribes, as to leave no 
doubt of both people being descended from the same stock ; and, 
though the inhabitants of Melville Peninsula declared they knew of 
people to the westward of Akoolee, there is much reason to believe 
from the articles of Asiatic manufacture found in their possession, 
that there is an occasional communication between all the tribes on 
the north coast of America. 

The subject of currents in Beering's Strait has lost much of its inter- 

61 



482 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [ Oct. 

est by the removal of the doubt regarding the separation of tbe 
continents of Asia and America ; and it is now of importance only 
to the navigator, and to the natural philosopher. 

It does not appear, from our passages across the seaofKamschat- 
ka, that any great body of water flows towards Beering's Strait. In 
one year the whole amount of current fromPetropaulski to St. Law- 
rence Island wasS. 54° W. thirty-one miles, and in the next N. 50° 
W. fifty one miles, and from Kotzebue Sound to Oonemak N. 79°. 
W, seventy-nine miles. Approaching Beering's Strait, the first 
year, with light southerly winds, it ran north sixteen miles per day ; 
and in the next, with strong S. W. winds, north five miles ; and with 
a strong N.E. wind, N. 34° W twenty-three miles. Returning three 
different times with gales at N. W. there was no perceptible current. 
By these observations it appears that near the strait with southerly 
and easterly winds there is a current to the northward ; but with 
northerly and north-westerly winds there is none to the southward, 
and consequently that the preponderance is in favour of the former, 
and of the generally received opinion of all persons who have nav- 
igated these seas. I prefer this method of arriving at the set of the 
current to giving experiments made occasionally with boats, as they 
would lead to a result, which would err according to the time of the 
tide at which they were made. 

To the northward of Beering's Strait, the nature of the service we 
were employed upon confined us within a few miles of the coast; 
there the northerly current was more apparent. We first detected 
it off Schismareff Inlet ; it increased to between one and two miles 
an hour, off Cape Krusenstern, and arrived at its maximum, three 
miles an hour, off Point Hope : this was with the 'flood tide ; the 
ebb ran W. S. W. half a mile an hour. Here the current was turned 
off to the north-west by the point, and very little was afterwards felt 
to the northward. The point is bold and shingly, and shows every 
indication of the current being prevalent and rapid. 

This current, as I have before remarked, was confined nearly to 
the surface and within a few miles of the land ; at the depth of nine 
feet its velocity was evidently diminished, and at three and five fath- 
oms there was none. The upper stratum, it should be observed, 
was much fresher than sea water ; and there is no doubt that this 
current was greatly accelerated, if not wholly occasioned, by rivers ; 
but why it took a northerly course is a question I am not prepared 
to answer. 

To the northward and eastward of Cape Lisburn we found little 
or no current until we arrived at Icy Cape. Off this projection it 
ran strong, but in opposite directions, and seemed to be influenced 
entirely by the winds. Near Point Barrow, with a southwesterly 
gale, it ran at the rate of three miles an hour and upwards to the 



IS27.] and beering's strait. 483 

N. E., and did not subside immediately with the wind ; but the cur- 
rent must here have been increased by the channel between the 
land and the ice becoming momentarily narrowed by the pack clos- 
ing the beach ; and it must not be imagined that the whole body of 
water in the Polar Sea was going at the rapid rate above mention- 
ed, which would be contrary to our experiments in the offing. 
Another cause of this may be a bank lying to the westward of ley 
Cape, upon one part of which the water shoals from thirty-two fath- 
oms to nineteen, and the bottom is changed from mud to stones. 

It is evident, from the above mentioned facts, that a current pre- 
vails in a northerly direction, although we are unable to state with 
precision its amount, which cannot under any circumstances be 
great, nor, I should think, exceed a mile an hour on the average. 
To be able to speak positively on this subject would require a vast 
number of trials to be made in the same place, and at a distance 
from the land, out of the influence of rivers. We may however 
presume, that the above-mentioned direction is that of the prevail- 
ing current throughout the year ; for, upon examining the shoals off 
the principal headlands, we find them all to extend to the north- 
west, as may be seen on referring to St. Lawrence Island, Capes 
Prince of Wales, Krusenstern, and Lisburn, and also to Point Hope, 
This I conceive to be the most certain mode of deciding the ques- 
tion, without purposely stationing a vessel in the strait, and it is sat- 
isfactory to find that the result fully coincides with the experiments 
made near the shore by the Blossom and her boats.* Our obser- 
vations, of course, apply to one season of the year only, as no ex- 
periments have as yet been made in the winter. 

The course of this current, after it passes Cape Lisburn, is some- 
what doubtful ; we should expect it to diverge, and one part to 
sweep round Icy Cape and Point Barrow ; but the shoals off the 
former place, like the currents themselves, do not furnish any satis- 
factory inference. These shoals lie parallel with the shore, and 
may be occasioned by ice grounded off the point. It may be ob- 

* I was in hopes that I had expressed myself clearly on this subject in the first 
edition of my work ; but I find that I have been misunderstood, and even supposed 
in one place to have contradicted my statement in another. This apparrent disa- 
greement has arisen partly, if not wholly, from an oversight in some of my readers, 
who have compared observations, made at the surface of the sea at one place, with 
those ax five fathoms below it at another nearly "200 miles distant. If the reader will 
have the candour to compare the observations made at the surfaces at both places, he 
will find them to agree, with the exception that the current at one place ran faster 
than at the other, the reason of which I have endeavoured to account for in page 
482 of this volume. I should observe here, that although I have not encumbered 
my narrative with a notice of every time the current was tried, such observations 
were made repeatedly, whenever the nature of the service I was employed, upon 
would admit of it ; but I wish it to be borne in mind, that the situation of the ship, 
necessarily close in shore, was highly unfavourable to the determination of the ques- 
tion under discussion. 



484 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

served here, that voyagers have frequently mentioned westerly cur- 
rents along the northern coast of Asia and Nova Zembla, and we 
know from experience, that, in the summer, at least, there is a 
strong westerly current between Spitzbergen and Greenland. In 
the opposite direction, we find only a weak stream passing through 
the narrow strait of Hecla and Fury, and none through Barrow 
Strait. It seems, therefore, probable, that the principal part of the 
water which flows into the Polar Sea, from the Pacific, finds its way 
to the westward. 

By many experiments made on shore at Icy Cape by Lieutenant 
Belcher, it appeared that southerly and westerly winds occasioned 
high tides, and northerly and easterly winds very low ebbs. It 
would seem, from this fact that the water finds some obstruction to 
the northward, and I think it probable that the before mentioned 
shoal, which closes the land toward Point Barrow, may extend to 
the northward ; nay, it may even lie off the coast of some polar 
lands, too low and too far off to be seen from the margin of the ice ; 
and which can only be ascertained by journeys over the ice, in a 
similar manner to that in which the mountains to the northward of 
Shelatskoi Noss were discovered by the Russians. It was this 
shoaling of the water to the northward of Cape Lisburn that induc- 
ed the late Captain Burney to believe the continents of Asia and 
Amereica were connected. 

To the northward of Beering's Strait the tide rises about two feet 
six inches at full and change, and the flood comes from the south- 
ward. 

The quantity of drift wood found upon the shores of Beering's 
Strait has occasioned various conjectures as to the source from 
which it proceeds; some imagining it to be brought down the rivers ; 
others to be drifted from the southward. 

We found some at almost every place where we landed, and oc- 
casionally in great quantities. There was more at Point Rodney 
than in any other part ; a great deal upon Point Spencer ; some 
upon Cape Espenburg, but more in Kotzebue Sound. Between 
Cape Krusenstern and Cape Lisburn there was very little, and in 
the bay to the eastward of the Cape scarcely any ; but when the 
coast turned to the northward it became more plentiful, and it was 
afterwards tolerably abundant, and continued so all the way to 
Point Barrow. In addition to this, it should be remembered, that 
a great deal is used by the Esquimaux for boats, implements of all 
sort, houses, and fuel. 

These trees are principally, if not all, either pine or birch ; all 
that we examined were of these two species, and we lost no oppor- 
tunity of making inquiry on this subject. The wood is often tough 
and good ; indeed some that was taken from Choris Peninsula was 



1827.] and beering's strait. 485 

superior to the pine we procured at Monterey ; but from this stage 
of preservation it may be traced to old trunks crumbling to dust. 
Some trees still retained their bark, and appeared to have been re- 
cently uprooted ; and comparatively few showed marks of having 
been at sea. 

Some circumstances favour an opinion, by no means uncommon, 
that this wood is drifted from the southward ; such as its being found 
in large quantities on Point Rodney, the many floating trees met 
with at sea to the soutward of Kamschatka, he. ; but the quantity 
of this material found by Captain Franklin and Dr. Richardson at 
the mouths of the rivers on the northern coast of America, and some 
being found by us high up Kotzebue Sound, in Port Clarence, and 
other places, where it is hardly possible for it to be drifted, consid- 
ering the outset of fresh water, renders it more probable that it is 
brought down from the interior of America. Rivers quite sufficient 
for this purpose will be found on an inspection of the chart ; but 
without this we need only advert to the before-mentioned rapid cur- 
rent of nearly fresh water to prove their existence. Did the wood 
come by sea from the southward, we could scarcely have failed 
seeing some of it in our passage from Petropaulski, and during our 
cruises to the northward of Beering's Strait ; but scarcely any was 
observed between Kamschatka and St. Lawrence Island ; none be- 
tween that place and Beering's Strait ; and only six or seven pieces 
of short wood to the northward, notwithstanding the coast was close- 
ly navigated in both years by the ship and the barge. Beside, the 
westerly current, which is prevalent to the southward of Beering's 
Strait, is very much against the probability of its being drifted from 
the southward. 



We passed the Aleutian Islands on the night of the 14th, and as 
in the preceding year entered a region of fine clear weather. The 
volcano on Oonemak was still emitting flashes, which were visible 
at a very considerable distance. It being my intention now to make 
the best of my way to England, I directed the course towards Cal- 
ifornia, for the purpose of refitting the ship, and of recruting the 
health of the ship's company. In this passage nothing remarkable 
occurred until the 20th, on which day the sun was eclipsed, when 
we were overtaken by a violent storm, beginning at S. E. and going 
round the compass in a similar manner to the typhoons in the Chi- 
na Sea. As the gale increased, our sails were gradually reduced, 
until a small storm staysail was the only canvass we could spread. 
The sea had the appearance of breakers, and the birds actually 
thew themselves into the water, apparently to escape the fury of the 
wind. About four in the afternoon, just before the gale was at its 



486 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [Oct. 

highest, the wind shifted suddenly eight points, and brought the 
ship's head to the sea, which made a clear breach over the forecas- 
tle. Anticipating a change of this nature, we fortunately wore 
round a few hours before it occurred, and escaped the consequences 
which must have attended the stern of the ship being opposed to 
such breakers. The barometer during this gale fell an inch in elev- 
en hours, and rose the same quantity in five hours, standing at 28-4 
when at its lowest altitude. The temperature of the air rose nine 
degrees from eight in the morning to noon, and fell again to its for- 
mer altititude at eight at night. 

On the 24th, we were concerned to find several of the seamen 
afflicted with scurvy. Had this disease appeared the preceding 
year, in which they had been a very long time upon half allowance 
of salt provisions, and without any vegetable diet, it would not have 
been extraordinary ; but in this year the seamen had been on full 
allowance of the best kind of provision, and had been living upon 
fresh beefinChina, turtle and fish in the Arzobispo Islands and Petro- 
paulski, besides the full allowance of lemon juice, pickled cabbages, 
and other anti-scorbutics. The season to the northward, it is true, 
had been more severe than of the preceding year, and the duty in 
consequence more harassing ; but this is not sufficient in my opin- 
ion to occasion the difference, and I cannot but think that the indul- 
gence in turtle, after leaving the Arzobispo Islands, which was 
thought so beneficial at the moment, induced a predisposition to the 
complaint. The disease assumed an unusual character, by scarcely 
affecting the gums, while patients were otherwise so ill that a dispo- 
sition to syncope attended the exertion of walking. Our cases for- 
tunately were not numerous, being confined to six ; and, after a few 
days' fresh provisions in California, were entirely cured. 

On the 29th we were apprised of our approach to the coast of 
California by some large white pelicans, which were fishing a few 
miles to the westward of Point- Pinos. We soon afterwards saw 
the land, and at eight at night moored in the Bay of Monterey. 
Early the following morning I waited upon the governor, and des- 
patched messengers to the missions of St. Carlos and St. Cruz for 
vegetables, which were afterwards served daily in double the usual 
proportion to the ship's company, who benefited so much by the 
diet that, with one exception, they very soon recovered from all in- 
disposition. 

By some English newspapers, which were found in this remote 
part of the world, we learned the melancholy news of the death of 
His Royal Highness the Duke of York, and put the ship in mourn- 
ing, by hoisting the flag half-mast during the time she remained in 
the port. 

In my former visit to this country I remarked that the padres 



1827.] and beering's strait. 487 

were much mortified at being desired to liberate from the missions 
all the Indians who bore good characters, and who were acquainted 
with the art of tilling the ground. In consequence of their remon- 
strances the governor modified the order, and consented to make 
the experiment upon a few only at first, and desired that a certain 
number might be settled in the proposed manner. After a 
few months' trial, much to his surprise, he found that these people, 
who had always been accustomed to the care and discipline of 
schoolboys, finding themselves their own masters, indulged freely 
in all those excesses which it had been the endeavour of their tu- 
tors to repress, and that many, having gambled away their clothes, 
implements, and even their land, were compelled to beg or to plun- 
der in order to support life. They at length became so obnoxious 
to the peaceable inhabitants, that the padres were requested to take 
some of them back to the missions, while others who had been guil- 
ty of misdemeanors were loaded with shackles and put to hard work, 
and when we arrived were employed transporting enormous stones 
to the beach to improve the landing-place. 

The padres, conscious that the government were now sensible 
of the importance of the missions, made better terms for themselves 
than they had been offered by the Republican government. They 
were allowed to retain their places, and had their former salary of 
four hundred dollars a year restored to them, besides a promise of 
payment of arrears. In return for this a pledge was exacted from 
the padres, binding them to conform to the existing laws of the coun- 
try, and in every way to consider themselves amenable to them. 
Thus stood the missionary cause in California when we quitted that 
country. 

We remained in Monterey until the 17th, and then sailed for 
St. Francisco to complete our water, which at the former place, 
besides being so scarce that we could hardly procure sufficient for 
our daily consumption, was very unwholesome, being brackish and 
mingled with the soapsuds of all the washerwomen in the place, 
and with streams from the bathing places of the Indians, into which 
they were in the habit of plunging immediately on coming out of 
the Temeschal. 

San Francisco had undergone no visible change since 1826, 
except that the presidio had suffered from the shock of an earth- 
quake on the 22d of April, which had greatly alarmed its inhabi- 
tants. 

We had here the misfortune to lose James Bailey, one of our mar- 
ines, who had long been an invalid. 

The third of December we left the harbour of St. Francisco, the 
shores of which, being newly clothed with snow, had a very wintry 
appearance ; and on the 13th saw Cape St. Lucas. The next day 



488 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC [ Oc t. 

wc were off the Tres Marias, three high islands, situated seventy- 
five miles to the westward of San Bias, and well known by the 
frequent mention of them in the history of the Buccaneers, and by 
other early navigators in these seas. In consequence of a current 
setting out of the Gulf of California we were more to leeward than 
we were aware, and, with a view of saving time, passed through the 
channel between the two northernmost islands. In doing this we 
were becalmed several hours, and fully verified the old proverb, 
that the longest way round is often the shortest way home. 

This channel appears to be quite safe ; and in the narrowest part 
has from sixteen to twenty-four fathoms water; but the ground in 
other places is very steep, and at two miles distance from the shore 
to the westward there is no bottom at a hundred fathoms. When 
the wind is from the northward it is calm in this channel, and a cur- 
rent sometimes sets to the southward, which renders it advisable, 
on leaving the channel, to take advantage of the eddy winds which 
intervene between the calm and the true breeze to keep to the 
northward, to avoid being set down upon St. George's Island. Wo 
found these islands twenty miles further from San Bias than they 
were placed on the charts. 

The next morning the mountains on the mainland were seen 
towering above the white vapour which hangs over every habitable 
part of the land near San Bias. The highest of these, San Juan, 
6,230 feet above the sea, by trigonometrical measurement,is the best 
guide to the Road of San Bias, as it maybe seen at a great distance 
and is seldom obscured by fogs, while the low lands are almost al- 
ways so. In my chart of this part of Mexico I have given its ex- 
act position. When the Piedra de Mer can be seen, it is an equal- 
ly certain guide. This is a rock about ten miles west of the anchor- 
age, a hundred and thirty feet high, with twelve fathoms water all 
round it. 

The afternoon was well advanced before we anchored in the 
Road of San Bias, and the refreshing Seabreeze, sweeping the shores 
of the bay, had already dispersed the mist, which until then steam- 
ed from the hot swampy savannahs that for miles surround the little 
isolated rock upon which the town is built. The inhabitants had 
not yet returned from Tepic, to which place they migrate during the 
tiempo de las aguas ; the rainy season, so called from the manner 
in which the country is deluged with rain in the summer time. 

At the time of our arrival in Mexico political affairs were very 
unsettled, and the property of British merchants was so much en- 
dangered, that I was compelled to accede to a request of the mer- 
chants, made through the vice-consul of San Bias, that I would de- 
lay my return to England, and remain until they could collect their 
funds, and that I would receive them on board for conveyance to 



1828.] and beebing' strait. 489 

Europe. As it would require several weeks before this specie 
could be got together, I proposed to visit Guaymas, and to examine 
the eastern coast of the Gulf of California ; but this was frustrated 
by the revolt of Bravo, the vice-president of Mexico, and by the 
affairs of the state becoming so disorganized that the merchants furth- 
er requested me not to quit the anchorage until they assumed a less 
dangerous aspect. 

Shortly after our arrival we began to feel the effects of the un- 
healthy climate of San Bias, by several of the seamen being affec- 
ted with intermittent fevers and agues, the common complaints of 
the place, particularly with persons who reside upon low ground, 
or who are exposed to the night air ; and I regret to add that we here 
lost Thomas Moore, one of our most active seamen. 

On the 27th of January, 1828, the agitation occasioned by the 
revolt had subsided, but unfortunately to late for me to proceed to 
Guaymas. However, as the principle part of the specie was to be 
shipped at Mazatlan,*we put to sea a few clays earlier than was ne- 
cessary for that purpose, that we might examine the Tres Marias 
and Issabella Islands. On the 3d February we reached Mazatlan, 
a very exposed anchorage, in which ships are obliged to lie so close 
to the shore that there would be very great difficulty in putting to 
sea with the wind from the W.S.W. to S.E. In the course of our 
survey, a rock having only eleven feet of water upon it was discov- 
ered nearly in the centre of the anchorage, and occasioned no little 
surprise that of the many vessels which had put into the port all 
should have escaped being damaged upon it. Mazatlan is more 
healthy than San Bias, and our people here began to recover from 
the disorders they had contracted at that place. 

February 7th. — Having embarked the specie on the 24th, we 
put to sea on our return to San Bias, and ran along the shore with 
a northerly wind which is here prevalent from November to June. 
Lieutenant Belcher, in the cutter, kept in shore of the ship, and 
filled in those parts of the ccast which could not be seen by her : 
and we thus completed a survey of the coast from Mazatlan to sev- 
eral miles South of San Bias. Between these two ports the water 
shoals so gradually that there is no danger whatever. 

In my former visit to this place I found it necessary to proceed 
to Tepic to meet the merchants in consultation, and on that occa- 
sion I carried with me the necessary instruments for determining its 
position ; by which it appears that it is only twenty-two miles direct 
from the port, though by the road it is fifty-two. It is in latitude 
21o 30' 42" N., and its height above the sea 2,900 feet. By a reg- 
ister kept there during our stay, its mean temperature was 8°.l be- 
low that of San Bias, and the range 2°.S greater. 

Tepic is the second town in importance in Xalisco, now called 
62 



490 voyage to the pacific [March, 

Guadalaxara, and contains 8000 inhabitants ; but this population is 
augmented to about 11,000 in the unhealthy season upon the coast, 
at which time the people resort to Tepic. The town stands in the 
lowest part of a plain nearly surrounded by mountains, and not far 
from a large lake which exhales a malaria fatal to those who attempt 
to live upon its banks. On hot sunny days, of which there are many 
the clouds as they pass often envelope the town, and strike a chill 
which proves fatal to hundreds of persons in the course of the year ; 
and immediately the sun has set behind the mountains a cold deposit 
takes place, which is so great that it soon wets a person through. 
Under these circumstances Tepic is itself scarcely more healthy than 
the sea-coast, and by the records of the Church it appears that 
the deaths exceed the births. 

About a league and a half from Tepic, at the foot of Mount San 
Juan, stands Xalisco, near the site of the ancient town of that name. 
This town, though so close to Tepic, is very salubrious. I had the 
curiosity to examine the parish books here, in order to compare 
them with those at Tepic, and found the births to exceed the deaths 
in the proportion eighty-four to nineteen. In a population of only 
3000, there were several persons upwards of a hundred years of age 
while in Tepic there are very few above seventy two. The Span- 
iards are fully aware of this difference of climate, and often send in- 
valids from Tepic to Xalisco to recover their health ; yet they con- 
tinue to reside, and even to build new houses in the unhealthy spot 
their ancestors have chosen. 

The 1st of March was the day appointed for the embarkation of 
the specie at San Bias ; but it was the 6th before it arrived and the 
8th before we could put to sea. On my way to the southward it 
became necessary to call at Acapulco for the purpose of securing 
the bowsprit previous to the passage round Cape Horn, as this could 
not be done conveniently in the open road of San Bias. While we 
were at anchor we received very distressing accounts of the state of 
affairs at Acapulco, and several vessels arrived from that place with 
passengers, who had been obliged to seek their safety by flight. It 
appeared that shortly after the revolt of Bravo, the Spaniards with 
certain exceptions, were expelled from the Mexican Territory ; and 
that Montesdeoca, a republican general, who was deeply indebted 
to some Spaniards at Acapulco, took advantage of this proclamation 
to liquidate his debt by marching against the town with a lawless 
troop of half-cast Mexicans, and by obliging the Spaniards to take 
refuge on board the vessels in the harbour, or to secrete themselves 
in the woods. 

On putting to sea from San Bias, we kept along the land ; the 
next day we determined the position of Cape Corrientes, a remar- 
kable promontory on this coast, and on the 10th were within sight 



1828.] and beering's strait. 491 

of the volcano of Colima. This mountain, by our measurement 
from a base of forty-eight miles, is 12,003 feet above the sea ; and 
is situated in latitude 19 Q 25' 24" N. and longitude 1°41' 42" E. 
of the arsenal at San Bias. On the 11th, in latitude 17? 16 N., 
our temperature underwent a sensible change, previous to this date 
the thermometer had ranged between 71° and 73°, but on this day 
it rose to 82°, and did not fall again below 80° until after we quitted 
Acapulco. I notice the circumstance in consequence of Captain 
Hall having experienced precisely the same change in the same sit- 
uation.* 

Early in the morning of the 12th March we came within view of 
the Tetas de Coyuca, two peaked hills, which are considered by 
seamen the best guide to the port of Acapulco, and the next morn- 
ing came to anchor in the most perfect harbour of its size that can 
be imagined. 

The town of Acapulco was now tranquil, two Spanairds only be-, 
ing left in the place, and Montesdeoca having retired to Tulincinga 
and disbanded his troops by order of the congress. The govern- 
ment of Acapulco was administered by Don Jose Manuella, a tool 
of Montesdeoca, who received me in his shirt, seated upon a 
Guyaquil hammock, in which he was swinging from side to side of 
the apartment. 

Having effected our purpose in putting into the port, and taken 
on board a supply of turkeys and fruit, which are finer here than in 
any other part of the world with which I am acquainted, we put to 
sea on the 18th. On the 29th March we crossed the equator in 
99° 40' W., and arrived at Valparaiso on the 29th of April, where 
we had the gratification to find, that his Royal Highness the Lord 
High Admiral had been pleased to mark his approbation of our pro- 
ceedings on our voyage to the northward in 1826, by honouring the 
Blossom with the first commissions for promotion which had been 
issued under his Royal Highness's auspices. Here also, I found 
orders awaiting my arrival to convey to Europe the remmittances 
of specie, part of which arrived on the 19th May, and on the 20th 
we proceeded to Coquimbo to take on board the remainder. 

On the 23d, when seven leagues S. W. 1-2 W. of this port, we 
were surprised by the shock of an earthquake, which shook the ship 
so forcibly, that some of the seamen imagined the anchor had 
been let go by accident, and was dragging the chain-cable with it 
to the bottom ; while others supposed the ship had struck upon a 
shoal. An hour afterwards we felt a second shock, but much light- 
er. On our arrival in Coquimbo we found that these shocks had 
been felt by the inhabitants and that there had been one the pre- 

* Hall's South America, p. 182. 



492 voyage to the pacific [March, 

ceding night, which made the churches totter until the bells rang. 
Several slight shocks were afterwards felt by the inhabitants, who 
are very sensible to these subterraneous convulsions. 

We remained several days in this port, which enjoys one of the 
most delightful climates imaginable, where gales of wind are scarce- 
ly ever felt, and in which rain is a very rare occurrence. Situated 
between the ports of Valparaiso and of Callao, where the dews 
alone irrigate the ground, it seems to partake of the advantages of 
the climates of each, without the inconvenience of the rainy season 
of the one, or of the heat and enervating qualities of the other. 

On the 3d June all the specie was embarked, and we put to sea on 
our way to Brazil; passed the meridian of Cape Horn on the 30th, 
in very thick snowshowers and after much bad weather arrived at 
Rio Janeiro on the 21st July. Here we received on board the 
Right Hon. Robert Gordon, ambassanor to the court of Brazil, and 
after a passage of forty-nine days arrived at Spithead, and on the 
12th October paid the ship off at Woolwich. 



In this voyage, which occupied three years and a half, we sailed 
seventy-three thousand miles, and experienced every vicissitude 
of climate. It cannot be supposed that a service of such duration, 
and of such an arduous nature, has been performed without the loss 
of lives, particularly as our ship's company was, from the commence- 
ment, far from robust ; and I have to lament the loss of eight by 
sickness, of four by shipwreck, of one missing, of one drowned in a 
lake, and of one by falling overboard in a gale of wind ; in all fifteen 
persons. To individuals nothing probably can compensate for these 
losses ; but to the community, considering the uncertainty of life 
under the most ordinary circumstances, the mortality which has at- 
tended the present undertaking will, I hope, be considered compen- 
sated by the services which have been performed by the expe- 
dition. 

In closing this narrative I feel it my duty to the officers employ- 
ed under my command, particularly to those whose immediate assis- 
tance I have acknowledged in my introduction, briefly to enumerate 
these services, as they are of such a nature that they cannot 
appear in a narrative, and as my professional habits have unqualified 
me for executing, with justice to them, or with satisfaction to my- 
self, the task of authorship which has devolved upon me as com- 
mander of the expedition, and which I should not have undertaken 
had I not felt confident that the candid public would look more to 
what has been actually done, than to the mode in which the pro- 
ceedings have been detailed. In the Appendix to the quarto edi- 
tion I have collected as much information as the nature of the work 



1828.] and beering's strait. 493 

would admit. Besides the interesting matter which it will be found 
to contain, the expedition has surveyed almost every place it touched 
at, and executed plans of fourteen harbours, of which two are new ; 
of upwards of forty islands, of which six are discoveries ; and of at 
least six hundred miles of coasts, one fifth of which has not before 
been delineated. There have also been executed drawings and 
views of headlands, two numerous to appear in one work ; and I 
hope shortly to be able to lay before the public two volumes of 
natural history. 

In taking my leave, it is with the greatest pleasure I reflect that 
the Board of Admirality again marked the sense they entertained 
of our exertions, by a further liberal promotion at the close of the 
expedition. 






LRB0?9 



